I added stationary burners. F project | EP#10
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Sides of the stem are heated properly, but what about the center? This is much more difficult.. I need to find a way to heat the center without burning off the pins. First step is to add stationary burners..
Thank you for your continuous support!
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I haven't been a scientific glass blower for two decades. But, I had a similar heat issue back then. I resolved it in two ways in two different projects. In the first, I had to pre-heat the molds much hotter than I thought prudent. In the other, I made the molds out of graphite. Don't know if any of that applied here, but maybe it could help.
How big were the details in your graphite molds? Any inserts, like the pins here? I'm wondering how quickly a graphite mold might wear or chip. You wouldn't have to keep brushing graphite dust on it though :)
@@JaredJennings-hp3zt Graphite mold could still have metal ferrules for the pins pressed into it?
@@semifavorableuncircle6952coefficient of expansion differences between graphite and metal could make that hard
@@JaredJennings-hp3zt The molds varied in size. The one which would come the closest to what Dalibor is doing was for the formation of a multiport sampling device for a laboratory analyzing water samples. It had three ports for integrated sensors; one three wire sensor port, and two ports for two wire sensors. The wires were actually placed into hole pre-drilled in the borosilicate rods before they were heated and the rods pressed in the graphite mold to make the metal/glass seal, and form the base of the module.
awesome work! don't stop your attempts!
how about making molds with the pin bump on the bottom, place pins, then glass granules and then kiln fire them to get the glass to flow with the temperature lower than is required to melt the pins. and have a second kiln for normalizing.... you could have trays of these in layers inside the kiln.... to me, it almost seems that you are trying the hardest way possible. i think you are doing fantastic with everything that you have done...
i do realize that this wouldn't be as fast as needed eventually in production unless you had a really large kiln...
What an odd celing. Is your lab at the top of a cathedral? Or perhaps the inside a capsized catamaran?
Can the central glass be melted off to the side in a metal 'scoop', then dropped in as a blob just prior to stamping? It could be integrated into the central burner as a unit so there are no cooling issues, perhaps?
It's a castle.
Great video as always! I really enjoy seeing your progress.
I had a good laugh at 9:05 "mh... mh.... Okey...". I could really relate to that feeling.
Hey buddy, fancy seeing you here lol. Heh think we could fill a nixie with caesium?😂
You must keep in mind that your mold will be hotter and hotter in the real production conditions. Glad to see that you never give up !!! ❤
I have no glass experience, so this might be a dumb suggestion. Would it make sense to form the inner disc with one set of dies, and then put it in the middle of this set of dies, and fuse them together? It looks like a lot of the problems you're encountering with the pins getting hot are due to the inconsistent process of melting the ring on the inside, and if you were able to make it a two step process, maybe you could get a better/more repeatable result. I also think that you might have to be creative with the disc dies, because you probably want them to have a chamfer for the outer glass to flow into, and you won't have any pins to help keep it from sticking, so you might need some shallow relief holes (which would leave a texture, I would assume).
Could also be cut or drilled plate glass, but probably the idea is, since it needs to be melted well enough to not just cling to the pins but indeed make a chemical seal, it doesn't (or shouldn't) much matter what the shape is beforehand, and any more effort (than cutting bits of tube) isn't worth it.
When this project ever finishes, you can be sure I will order 6 tubes from you
Hands down one of the coolest offices in the world 👍
Time for a full house/office tour!
These uploads always put a big smile on my face, man.
Your workshop space is incredible 👍
This may sound counter intuitive, but have you tried using an air compressor with a fine focus nosel focused on the pins above the glass? If you had that on a foot peddle, you could cool the pins as you heat the glass keeping them from failing too soon, and cut it easily when needed. Hmmm... this process is very complicated.
Regulate flame temperature by mixing air to above glass melt and below pin melt; just a thought.
Have u tried putting the pins at the top and heating glass at the bottom and then press the pins through the glass when heated
Hello Dalibor, ..... From what I see the temperature is enough to melt the pins. To avoid this, it's not possible to insert the pins in the upper mold and than push it thru molten glass ??? Good luck to you and your family.
Was looking for this comment. I know nothing about working with glass so I don’t know if it is a good idea, but it is what I thought as well. Maybe the glass won’t bond properly with the pins that way? Idk.
@@ElukeNL if the pins need to be heated to bond with glass... they may be preheated with additional torch on the upper side .... .... idk ... I also never worked with glass.
I'm curious if you're putting any consideration into preheating your molds. I would imagine on the production line examples you've shown of industrially created Nixie stems that there's a lot of heat built up in those molds. perhaps that would help you maintain heat in the glass so you only need to do one stamping instead of multiple.
regardless, thank you for sharing this research. it's really fun to see how you improve your process
Think the problem was, with cast iron, it can't be heated too much before glass sticks readily to it. The stainless should be more promising. Which, with the upper still in iron, and it looks more prone to sticking (but maybe that was just the pins getting wedged?), making both in stainless may just do the trick.
To avoid burning the pins, heating the molds would help when less heat is necessary to melt the glass.
Congrats on the good progress. I'm still wondering if the upper mold isn't hot enough and may be contributing to the stress fracturing. I liked how the outer glass formed a torus though getting the inner to melt and meld simultaneously so you only have to do one die strike is an automation issue. I also wonder if when annealing is applied is going to be an issue?
It seems you're using the well know but not often used try-fail-analyse-learn-adjust rinse and repeat rapidly until success.
looks like your making small steeps in the right direction, stainless steel is a bugger to work with.
Could you get better holes with spark erosion?
Yes but Squeaktastic amounts of money I think !!
Definitely staying tuned! The pin wheel could use some locking mechanism that would hold the pins firmly in place for turning, while it'd be released for insertion and removal.
Good progress. I have said it before but every time you make a new stem design you go through this very same process. Mold temp consistency will be important along with getting them off the mold and into the annealer and the shape of the exhaust tube connection will effect your radial cracking you are getting there.
Maybe some ideas here - Mullard Labs tour (1950s-60s) - ruclips.net/video/GDvF89Bh27Y/видео.html
Looking good, next would be just a few solenoids and timers to control the burners for consistency.
Flames should aim at where you want the glass to go once melted, aiming high just will burn the pins (looks like you got that figured out 👍)
Stainless is working good. just make sure the die heads are up to temperature, otherwise you'll get inconsistent results. ideally the whole system should be automated so you'll get consistent cycle time, that should help everything to reach equilibrium.
The cracks forming in the centre... not sure how to fix that...., I'd say your die plates are too cold.
To avoid burning the pins - did you think about using a CO2 Laser for heating the glass? Normal glass ist rather opaque at 10,6 µm. You can melt the glass without hitting the pins. Also this type of laser has become rather cheap.
You have a temperature control issue, but also, the melting points of your glass and pins are too close. Any way to lower the glass meting point and/or increasing the one for the pins ? I'm not sure if you had a chance or can play around this, or maybe if RCA did this ? This would give you much more flexibility / headroom.
Instead of having that center burner swing up to get out of the way, what if it swing parallel to the mold. Hey up the center, then pull the cold end toward you to swing the flame out of the way for pressing. That could be on an actuator on a final design.
It would probably be convenient to devise some contraption that would automatically move the burners out of the way when you lower the press, and keep the burners away when you lift the press and remove the finished piece. A lever or rope or something like that...
This is an amazing project, I am waiting for the next samsung galaxy with Nixie tubes screen.
Could you turn the machine upside down , pre heat the pins and molds , then heat one gob of glass on the bottom mold and push the pins down and through into the melted glass, i know the securing of the pins from falling out might be a problem, it might help stop melting pins, and cracks,
Maybe you could try to use a more direct burner for the top/middle or a finer/smaller one. I really appreciate your work and i would love to buy some nixie tubes at one point in the future 🔥
Overheating the pins looks like a real problem. Can you preform the button and add it in formed and dear molten? What about something in the bottom to try and pull the heat from the pins? Something like a copper or aluminum collet at the bottom the the lower die? Just something to help transfer the heat out of them.
What composition and CTE of glass are you using?
Just an idea, wouldn't it be easier to pour molten glass into a hot mould then press it....?
What if you melted the glass as a pre-form, then dropped the pins in to the holes, and then melted the glass around the pins?
9:10 That's why they have a caroussel in the old factories...
What about sticking the cold(er) pins into the molten glass during the press action? That could fix the problem with the melted pins.
That would compromise the seal he is trying to accomplish
Oh I think he said before that if you push the pins through the glass then they get glass stuck on them and you can't get it off
@@0xbenedikt then the pins need to have glass beads on them already...
What a cool location you're at! / I think I would go crazy before figuring it out.. There is no good way of protecting the pins from overheating, right?
I was thinking the same thing. The architecture and courtyard seem so peaceful. Looks like a lovely environment to work in.
FWIW, there was just a lot of discussion in the comments of Keith Rucker’s channel about drilling stainless steel. Consensus seemed to be that neither “pecking” or high RPM are advisable.
Small drill can't clear chips like a bigger one, most likely. And higher RPM is needed for smaller drills because angular velocity
Pecking is fine, you need to get the feed rate up to match the drill rpm though or you'll rub and then it'll harden and your boned. Don't dwell at the bottom of your peck.
Funny to see that you also seem to purchase tools from Sorotec
This is exciting! Love seeing how you work this out.
Zdravím a obdiv Dalibore. Nebylo by možné ty piny zabořit až do roztaveného skla jak tu někteří radí v komentářích? Mám tu třídílnou formu před očima. Ale na mé rady nedejte 🙂
A nemohli by tie piny byt osadene v tej vrchnej forme a az pri zlisovani by sa zastrcili do roztaveneho skla?
1:50 oh no, please don't put your hand in the path of the robot arm! even with torque limits they can be super dangerous if they go haywire. once in production you should really install a light curtain around it to trigger the e-stop, to prevent someone from getting hurt. they're mandatory in industrial control environments.
I see this exact robot type everywhere used without a light curtain, so it must be considered safe.
Držím Vám palce, aby to čo najskôr vyšlo a vďaka za super videá.
This is great, have more patience)
Process should be more controlled.
Thinner wall tubes?
Not far to go now. I love the beautiful building that you have at your disposal.
I bet if you waited till the dead of night in the rain and lit up the insides of your lab with sparks and bangs and flashes, a few Jacob's ladder's you have yourself a perfect Dr Frankenstein castle. I bet in the night I would sh%t myself there.....cheers.
Hi, I am very impressed to see how you are coping with such hard work.Great praise for how everything is organized. I've been watching your videos from the very beginning, and you've partly become my inspiration. About 7 years ago, I also started getting into Nexie Tybes. And I've collected a lot of lamp clocks.The main thing in life is to do what you love. Good luck with your business
Have you thought about preheating the center tube in an oven before putting it in the die?
Now yer getting there, start with center only, when dat is good ye already got the outer bit working good 👍
This is very promising progress! Love to see how you are iterating.
Following progress of your project is really exciting. Waiting for the next video.
Progress👍
Wow, great progress!
what model lathe is that from the beginning of the video?!? i need to know please
Google “Heathway Glass Lathes”, there are a few sites documenting them. 1930s-1940s by the look of it.
Can you inlay a grid to make the glass together.? Just asking.
When laying concrete there has to be metal inside to reinforce.
Just spitballing.
Saalute.
Have you asked Thunderf00t for any advice?
LMAO