Anyone else less than enthused by the resurgence of paddle-in over tow-in in giant waves? I'm not bagging the paddle-in crew - they've got balls of steel, and of course it's way more difficult than tow-in - but those fat, slow, cumbersome boards that the paddle-in crew use pretty much ensure that very few surfers will make it out of the barrel in waves like this. Remember Garrett McNamara's unbelievably huge and deep barrel at Jaws back in 2002? That's the future of big wave surfing. Tow-in, set your line to get as deep as possible, with tons of speed, on a tiny and manoeuvrable board, and get spat out. This paddle-in stuff seems masochistic by comparison. Most rides aren't even completed. We saw the same thing at Jaws during that monster swell a few months ago. So many guys just took off and went straight in the whitewater, because their giant boards handle like the Queen Mary. This isn't progression, it's regression.
I surfer California for 45 years. 20 feet, ya I did it . The great swell in 1969..I was there. THIS IS FRICKIN" NUTS!!!
MASSIVE drop occurs at 2:11 !!!
really fun
30 foot beach break...heavy MUCH..!!!
The spit at 1:57 is ludicrous
Fujikawa estuary of Japan was
#waves
alguem morreu
Anyone else less than enthused by the resurgence of paddle-in over tow-in in giant waves? I'm not bagging the paddle-in crew - they've got balls of steel, and of course it's way more difficult than tow-in - but those fat, slow, cumbersome boards that the paddle-in crew use pretty much ensure that very few surfers will make it out of the barrel in waves like this. Remember Garrett McNamara's unbelievably huge and deep barrel at Jaws back in 2002? That's the future of big wave surfing. Tow-in, set your line to get as deep as possible, with tons of speed, on a tiny and manoeuvrable board, and get spat out. This paddle-in stuff seems masochistic by comparison. Most rides aren't even completed. We saw the same thing at Jaws during that monster swell a few months ago. So many guys just took off and went straight in the whitewater, because their giant boards handle like the Queen Mary. This isn't progression, it's regression.
誰も入ってなかったですが静岡県の冨士川河口がこんな感じでした
多分、いまの日本人レベルだと無理でしょうがいずるれ誰かチャージして
ワールドクラスの波となれば世界中からサーフィンしに来てホットポイントになれば面白いと思います
ちなみに僕はサーフィン暦20年になります
目は確かだと思います