Thank you so much. I've been putting this off, because I thought it would be difficult with glue or 3m tape or something and didn't feel like dealing with it. But inflation over 9 years. It's $125 for my 4 series now!
Just got a new job last week, I can't wait to start showing my E39 some love! BTW my drivers door seal is trashed from the seatbelt. The previous owner must of slammed it shut with the seat belt out the door.
Thanks for this video! Most helpful to see someone else do it first. I agree with prior posters: leaving the little seal 'rope' on and pulling at the end is the proper way to reseat the inner side of the seal. After watching the video, I chose to put the two ends of the seal together FIRST at the proper place on the door frame, making the seal a closed loop. I then used a soft-faced rubber hammer to set the seal, starting at the bottom and making sure that the seal was completely seated on the frame. The reason you end up with 'extra' when seating it by hand is the seal doesn't get onto the frame all the way, especially at the corners of the door frame. Using the soft hammer and pressing the seal towards the last-seated portion of the seal as I moved around made it an almost-perfect fit first time out. I then pulled the 'rope' to seat the velvety inner side, and went around the seal once more with the hammer, tapping any loose sections into place. I think the hammer is the trick.
The strip on the sealingrubber that you removed before needs to be removed after placing the seal on its place so that te flaps on the inside of the car will be on its place.
I figured that out after I finished installing it haha. It was easy enough to do by hand after installation, but the strip would have made it easier for sure.
Very helpful video. But can you tell please tell me if i can fit the door seal to either side (left or right) ? Sorry for my english, hope you can understand what i asked, and I would be very grateful if you can answer.
Absolutely the best instructor DIY on here!! Quick to the point, no nonsense. Man you should do this more often. You articulate so very well ,, thanks.
Folks - this video is very helpful - but DO NOT PULL OUT THE CORD as shown! This is pulled out after the door seal is completely installed. Then pull it out to pull the felt out over the plastic trim pieces...got my seal from dealer for ~$140.00
I just finished installing mine, thanks for the video, and the helpful comments! Went pretty smoothly. I recommend ordering 3 new clips for the trim piece that pulls off (which I did), as 2 of the 3 broke coming off. I left the "string" on as mentioned, worked great to set felt as I pulled it out....
Isn't it amazing how solid and well these E39 doors shut even today, like new! I got in an X5 the other day more than 10 years younger than my car and the door closing action was no where near as nice an solid sounding as an E39 door closing.
Those exact parts are detailed in our latest video about hood cables/latches. Watch the first several minutes of that video. ruclips.net/video/Nik5vFerksY/видео.html
Works the same in an E90 :) Thanks. I found out that a better way is to start by putting the seams together and then snake each side up the door frames. That way you can see where there is too much slack since the seal bulges. I also couldn't get the little plastic rivets out from the car frame with pliers without breaking them, so I looped steel wire through them (there was a hole in them that you can fit the wire through) and pulled on the wire with pliers. You could also use some type of hook tool.
So it would pay to mark the place it separates when taking off !! Does anybody know how it is taken off on the E46 M3 ?? And are there any parts to put over the seal at the bottom,or anything to protect it.It is this area which BMW neglected,and the part that takes punishment most along with the Bolster on drivers door. ???
How about this: you start at the bottom, but with both sides attached at the beginning and work your way up alternating from one side to the other? Should work well the first try.
Thanks for the video. But I have a question. I need to replace the driver's side rubber seal. But would the passenger's side rubber fit it or are they different in length?
Very nice video! One suggestion: to make the door seal rubber fit more easily all the way "in" on the metal ridge, use silicon to coat the rubber part [not getting any on the the velvet portion] or the metal ridge all the way around. Rubber seal "seats" much more easily, and silicon does not impair weatherproof seal.
The only problem with using silicon to help seat the seal rubber is that it will not allow the seal to tighten up and will come off too easily. If you use Isopropyl alcohol, it will help the seal slide over the metal "lip", but will soon evaporate and allow the seal to grip the lip tightly.
I bought from ECS Tuning. Any dealership could source the part as well with the correct part number. I currently have two used (but in quite good shape) rear door seals that I'd like to sell if you're interested.
@@E39Source Thanks for the video. I checked ECS Tuning and the item is listed at $109.00. I think you mentioned that you paid just over fifty. Is that right?
HI, I see that you're having confort seat. I didn't find the part numbers on realoem, but I need to repair the triggers of the driver's seat for lumbar support. Is it possible to order only the button? If yes, what is the part #? Otherwise, is there any part # for the full command panel?
I believe you need the entire panel with buttons and the plastic trim. I would search for that on realoem.com with either the last 7 of your VIN to get the right parts, or tell RealOEM specifically what model, year, and country your car is. Then search for seat controls through the menus or quick search.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Been looking on realm, but I'm a bit scared, as the names for buttons are "hiders". I wouldn't like to have a cap instead of a button lol.
leborde I think the buttons are built into the whole thing, the hider is probably the cap that fills the whole if the car doesn't have that specific option, like lumbar.
First try, I was about 1 and 1/2 inches over and then listened to the video and redid it and everything fit perfectly. I was about to get scissors. Thank you for the advice!
@@efthimios Double check you have the correct part number for your year. Secondly, make sure you know manufacture date to ensure two different parts don’t exist for same model and year.
Thanks a lot Ryan...I just purchased an M5 LeMans Beast and I've done all of my DIYs from your videos. I was actually surprised as to the simplicity of the seal install after watching you do it. After watching your series I even managed to change my power steering fluid with a mityvac that I purchased and used to evacuate the fluid using one of the return lines attached to the reservoir housing. I literally drained the reservoir and attached one of the plastic extractor lines.
What do you call the piece of trim (maybe weather stirp) that is attached to the bottom of the door lining, which is not seen in this angle facing downwards to the floor, can anyone tell?
Thanks for making the video really straight forward. One question. It's not relevant to the video but hopefully you can give me an idea as to why when it rains the passenger side front floor gets wet. I have new door seals so I'm not sure where the water might come in thru. It get in thru the passenger side where the lcm is because I actually had to replace my light module because the water fried it. Thanks
That issue is either your vapor barriers (see ruclips.net/video/Mt8vjTrQ_ZY/видео.html), or the sunroof drain tubes that run along the A pillar. I would check the vapor barriers first.
Very similar installation on my E90. Thanks for posting this--it gave me the needed info to handle the replacement myself.
Thank you very much for this video, the dealer quote me $210, to install it. At the end of the day I did it by myself...thumbs up.
Thank you so much. I've been putting this off, because I thought it would be difficult with glue or 3m tape or something and didn't feel like dealing with it. But inflation over 9 years. It's $125 for my 4 series now!
Nice video your m5 looks so pristine , my 90 335 right at the sill plate it’s all torn up from getting in and out can’t wait to replace
Thanks for the video as you said 3x and still have overlap looked a lot easier than it as in the video
Just got a new job last week, I can't wait to start showing my E39 some love! BTW my drivers door seal is trashed from the seatbelt. The previous owner must of slammed it shut with the seat belt out the door.
Thanks for this video! Most helpful to see someone else do it first. I agree with prior posters: leaving the little seal 'rope' on and pulling at the end is the proper way to reseat the inner side of the seal. After watching the video, I chose to put the two ends of the seal together FIRST at the proper place on the door frame, making the seal a closed loop. I then used a soft-faced rubber hammer to set the seal, starting at the bottom and making sure that the seal was completely seated on the frame. The reason you end up with 'extra' when seating it by hand is the seal doesn't get onto the frame all the way, especially at the corners of the door frame. Using the soft hammer and pressing the seal towards the last-seated portion of the seal as I moved around made it an almost-perfect fit first time out. I then pulled the 'rope' to seat the velvety inner side, and went around the seal once more with the hammer, tapping any loose sections into place. I think the hammer is the trick.
Yep, exactly like that.
Correct
Will do Ryan and greetings from Las Vegas!
The strip on the sealingrubber that you removed before needs to be removed after placing the seal on its place so that te flaps on the inside of the car will be on its place.
I figured that out after I finished installing it haha. It was easy enough to do by hand after installation, but the strip would have made it easier for sure.
Very helpful video, many thanks !!!
Very helpful video. But can you tell please tell me if i can fit the door seal to either side (left or right) ? Sorry for my english, hope you can understand what i asked, and I would be very grateful if you can answer.
The front seals are interchangeable from left to right, same with the rears. But you can't put a front on rear or rear one front.
@@E39Source Thanks a lot. Really appreciate.
Thanks for the video. I checked ECS Tuning and the item is listed at $109.00. I think you mentioned that you paid just over fifty. Is that right?
Yes, though this was nearly ten years ago. The prices for these seals went up a few years back, $109 sounds right for today.
dude nice showing us but would like to have seen how you put it on
Nice instructions, very useful. I used a rubber hammer to avoid hurting my hand, no marks and nice and tight. Thanks.
Absolutely the best instructor DIY on here!! Quick to the point, no nonsense. Man you should do this more often. You articulate so very well ,, thanks.
Some of these clowns on here truly talk too much and know too little. This guy was on point, quick and knew what he was talking about.
@e39source
Hey so I need to do this on my E39. I cant find the part for less than $90. Where did you find it for $55?
+Ridge Hinkley The price on these door seals has gone up quite a bit since Ryan did his. He got his from the dealer.
Thanks for the guide. Found it helpful for my E60 as well 😃 cheers!
Where did you order the seals from
Folks - this video is very helpful - but DO NOT PULL OUT THE CORD as shown! This is pulled out after the door seal is completely installed. Then pull it out to pull the felt out over the plastic trim pieces...got my seal from dealer for ~$140.00
You are correct, Ted! It saves you from having to use your fingernails later.
I just finished installing mine, thanks for the video, and the helpful comments! Went pretty smoothly. I recommend ordering 3 new clips for the trim piece that pulls off (which I did), as 2 of the 3 broke coming off. I left the "string" on as mentioned, worked great to set felt as I pulled it out....
I appreciate you not mentioning your m5's build date for the first time ever. Thank you.
The removal of the installation seal rope prior to installation makes no sense. The crafty Bavarian folks put it there for a reason!
I thought that a bit extra, even though I don't make parts. To me as an electrician it acts like a guide so the gap is easily maintained.
Isn't it amazing how solid and well these E39 doors shut even today, like new! I got in an X5 the other day more than 10 years younger than my car and the door closing action was no where near as nice an solid sounding as an E39 door closing.
I'm guessing this is very similar for the E60/E61? Has anybody done one on this model?
It is the same process.
Under the trunk seal is a very common rust point, you should check it every once in a while, keep it clean and tight.
Love your channel, been wanting to change my seals and could not for the life of me figure out how, 8:16 minutes later i am an educated man! Thanks!
Best practice would be to rejoin the ends and place them when working it eliminates doing it multiple times
Just wanted to extend my thanks, procedure is the same on the F10.
Hi pleas record how remove and install dead pedal and plastics around all pedals
Those exact parts are detailed in our latest video about hood cables/latches. Watch the first several minutes of that video. ruclips.net/video/Nik5vFerksY/видео.html
Anyone know the part number for the rear seals? Or did he mean that the rear part number is the same as the front part number?
Rear seal: bit.ly/3oQd5yr
Well done!
Works the same in an E90 :) Thanks. I found out that a better way is to start by putting the seams together and then snake each side up the door frames. That way you can see where there is too much slack since the seal bulges. I also couldn't get the little plastic rivets out from the car frame with pliers without breaking them, so I looped steel wire through them (there was a hole in them that you can fit the wire through) and pulled on the wire with pliers. You could also use some type of hook tool.
excellent job "thumbs up" . I love hoe you take care of this beauty. it was made to keep forever. LONG LIVE E39 M5 "cheers"
anyone knows if its the same for g30?
So it would pay to mark the place it separates when taking off !!
Does anybody know how it is taken off on the E46 M3 ?? And are there any
parts to put over the seal at the bottom,or anything to protect it.It is this area
which BMW neglected,and the part that takes punishment most along with
the Bolster on drivers door. ???
Thank you so much,just what I was looking for. ❤️👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
of course bmw couldn't have just used a regular piece of weatherstripping... fuck
How about this: you start at the bottom, but with both sides attached at the beginning and work your way up alternating from one side to the other? Should work well the first try.
Sadly these are upwards of $110 these days! Mine on the driver's side is so bad that it makes the door rattle when going over a bumpy road.
Awesome video. 10 years later it is still one of the best instructional videos on YT.
Thanks for the video. But I have a question. I need to replace the driver's side rubber seal. But would the passenger's side rubber fit it or are they different in length?
They are the same part, and the same length.
Ok,thanks
Hi. Think the stringy bit you pull out is to ease the fitting. It opens the groove as you push it on.
Thanks so much for this, it gave me the confidence to order and do the same job myself on my 116. Good job.
Nice, man! My both fronts are total mess, gonna get new ones tomorrow, thanks for the advices! :)
what is the difference between the seal you fixed and this seal which part # is: 51 21 9 069 322 ? am confused
great video..
Very nice video! One suggestion: to make the door seal rubber fit more easily all the way "in" on the metal ridge, use silicon to coat the rubber part [not getting any on the the velvet portion] or the metal ridge all the way around. Rubber seal "seats" much more easily, and silicon does not impair weatherproof seal.
The only problem with using silicon to help seat the seal rubber is that it will not allow the seal to tighten up and will come off too easily. If you use Isopropyl alcohol, it will help the seal slide over the metal "lip", but will soon evaporate and allow the seal to grip the lip tightly.
Wouldn't a easier way to install it be to join the two ends first then stick the rest on?
Thanks bro, exceptionally clear, concise & helpful contribution
Is this the original part?
Yes, factory replacement
only $55? my dealers like "you need air in your tires" bill=$200 WTF!
you make fantastic videos.....great job and thank yuo
Where to buy the seal? I need one for my E46 M3.
ECS is a great source: bit.ly/2MPZSB3
look at my e39 !!!
BMW 528i e39 acceleration 0-140 km/h Beschleunigung
thank you Sir! for an excellent video.
Great video. Finding the part is hard. I have a E39 2003 530i and I can't find a good one (or bad) for the rear door. Anyone have a good lead on that?
I bought from ECS Tuning. Any dealership could source the part as well with the correct part number. I currently have two used (but in quite good shape) rear door seals that I'd like to sell if you're interested.
@@E39Source Thanks for the video. I checked ECS Tuning and the item is listed at $109.00. I think you mentioned that you paid just over fifty. Is that right?
HI, I see that you're having confort seat.
I didn't find the part numbers on realoem, but I need to repair the triggers of the driver's seat for lumbar support. Is it possible to order only the button? If yes, what is the part #?
Otherwise, is there any part # for the full command panel?
I believe you need the entire panel with buttons and the plastic trim. I would search for that on realoem.com with either the last 7 of your VIN to get the right parts, or tell RealOEM specifically what model, year, and country your car is. Then search for seat controls through the menus or quick search.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Been looking on realm, but I'm a bit scared, as the names for buttons are "hiders". I wouldn't like to have a cap instead of a button lol.
leborde I think the buttons are built into the whole thing, the hider is probably the cap that fills the whole if the car doesn't have that specific option, like lumbar.
First try, I was about 1 and 1/2 inches over and then listened to the video and redid it and everything fit perfectly. I was about to get scissors. Thank you for the advice!
Same here Tony omg I really tried it multiple times though I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong
@@efthimios Double check you have the correct part number for your year. Secondly, make sure you know manufacture date to ensure two different parts don’t exist for same model and year.
Worked exactly the same on my e36 👍👍👍
Thanks a lot Ryan...I just purchased an M5 LeMans Beast and I've done all of my DIYs from your videos. I was actually surprised as to the simplicity of the seal install after watching you do it. After watching your series I even managed to change my power steering fluid with a mityvac that I purchased and used to evacuate the fluid using one of the return lines attached to the reservoir housing. I literally drained the reservoir and attached one of the plastic extractor lines.
Ryan, were ur seals leaking or just preventative?
What do you call the piece of trim (maybe weather stirp) that is attached to the bottom of the door lining, which is not seen in this angle facing downwards to the floor, can anyone tell?
The rubber seal on the bottom of the metal part of the door?
@@E39Source Yes, that one I am asking.
@@sinanayenigul8731 I would say you are looking for this: www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/door-seal-right/51218202676/
@@E39Source Thanks man you are great
That rubber piece you pulled out is to help you get the trim over the plastic pieces around it.
William Thieme Awesome
Thanks for posting this! Great video!
Awesome show 👏..
Thanks, very helpful👍
I wonder if this diy would work on e53 as well.
It's most likely the same or a very similar process.
What car color is that?
Trt Mrt Silverstone metallic
Thank you, very helpful !!!!
Great work. cool clip.
Thanks for hints!!
first ! :D
Thanks for making the video really straight forward. One question. It's not relevant to the video but hopefully you can give me an idea as to why when it rains the passenger side front floor gets wet. I have new door seals so I'm not sure where the water might come in thru. It get in thru the passenger side where the lcm is because I actually had to replace my light module because the water fried it. Thanks
That issue is either your vapor barriers (see ruclips.net/video/Mt8vjTrQ_ZY/видео.html), or the sunroof drain tubes that run along the A pillar. I would check the vapor barriers first.
+E39Source thank you for your help. I will take a look at the video and try to work on it one of these days. I appreciate it