Thank you so much ! Excellent tutorial - my son watched it too and helped me complete it. I used some thin rubber instead of the hose clip but it is a nice snug fit now. Drop, lights-on alarm, courtesy light and door open notification now all working. 👍🏼
There are a lot of TT forums covering this in text and photos, but this is the first time I've seen a decent video on how to do this - it looks a lot easier than I thought. Thank you so much for posting this! Really useful :D
Great video, I have got to do mine, on the tt forums alot of people glue a small strip of plastic (from a yoghurt pot or similar) over the microswitch.
I managed to do it without removing the door lock itself. Remove door card and you can see the switch, i had to snip the plastic below the switch to allow me to get the clip out but was a half hour job
How are you installing the hose clamp?! Are you cutting it and forcing it in the mounting position or is the clamp screw mechanism just not visible in this video? You've got me pulling my hair out because I need to do this and am unsure what you're doing on this video. Thanks for doing it...please answer asap.
current creation so if my windows aren’t adjusting on door open and close, can I assume both sensors need this treatment? It’s only a 70ma draw on my battery, and the need to disengage the door open sensor to do a multimeter parasitic draw test pulling fuses brought me to your video. I’m still trying to figure out how to disengage the door sensor to do the draw test. Any suggestions?
@@beaucottington first, yes it sounds like both doors need the same treatment. second, when you have the door apart, you can do the test on the switch to open and close the window as seen at about the 6:00 mark in my video. Test the draw before and after cycling the switch and that should hopefully answer your question. Please report back, would like to hear your findings! EDIT: you could also hook up the mechanism to the door and just cycle the microswitch manually while it is apart as seen around the 3:30 mark
Someone else said they found a replacement at radio shack. The whole reason I tore apart the mechanism to repair it was because I couldn’t find a factory replacement. Have to replace the whole mechanism.
Not hard. Install is just reverse of removal. Only a few screws and the wire harnesses to connect. The door card on a TT is incredibly simple to install.
@@currentcreation thank you again. I was having issues with the door handle connection. My switch had the rubber broken away. The plunger is gone. Now I am on the search for a micro switch that I can make work. Thank you for the great video!
Thank you for this video, great material! :) I have a question. My driver side window has the same issue with the edition that in won't go down or up at all using the finger switch. Like when you open the window normally. I can't hear any relays clicking when i push the button. Do you have any idea what this could be? Wiring from the door to the inside of the car? Burnt motor? Any way to check this? Thank you for any replies :)
Sounds like the motor. I have another video that I haven’t produced yet, where I handle a full regulator repair. I will try to get that up soon, but in the meantime I suggest testing the motor. Could just put a volt meter on the motor harness to find out
www.bentleypublishers.com/audi/tt/2000-2006/Audi-TT-2000-2006-Repair-Manual.html page EWD-43 & 44 are the window wiring diagrams. Bentley is helpful if you need a diagram. Can’t recall how many wires, I would just test the signal on all of them to be sure that you are getting a signal to the motor. Could also pull the motor off and test it. Chances are pretty good though that if your motor is bad, it’s due to drag on the regulator. You may need to replace the whole thing.
It is a typical wire harness used with VAG cars. There is a little tab on the side that needs to be pushed. Sometimes they are broken and you can just pull the harness loose, or may need to get a small flat screwdriver to slide under and lift the tab piece up a little to release. The end of the harness connector, that is part of the mechanism, has a little plastic wedge that the loom part of the harness grabs onto.
sounds like the flat metal piece on the mechanism isn't turning with the key? maybe not lined up properly? is the flat part inserted into the slot on the door handle end? The first thing I'd suggest removing the mechanisms from the door; to see if they are assembled to the door correctly.
Dang. You skipped right over the last step of taking it out...the part I was looking for. Where the short wire gets disconnected from the assembly just before you pull it out. I can't figure it out.
I don't believe that the switch is sold by itself. You have to purchase the whole lock mechanism. This is the problem with just replacing it, and the reason I created a workaround. Some have found that replacing the microswitch with one from Radioshack or someplace similar works. You will need to glue it in place for it to stay though. Unfortunately, I do not have any of that specific information. Good luck!
Thank you so much ! Excellent tutorial - my son watched it too and helped me complete it. I used some thin rubber instead of the hose clip but it is a nice snug fit now. Drop, lights-on alarm, courtesy light and door open notification now all working. 👍🏼
There are a lot of TT forums covering this in text and photos, but this is the first time I've seen a decent video on how to do this - it looks a lot easier than I thought. Thank you so much for posting this! Really useful :D
You are very welcome! Glad I could help!
hey man BEEN looking for about 3 years for a video like this good shit gonna try and see if this works on my passenger side window
Good luck!
Hey, 19-December-2021, and this video was really useful, thanks a lot for your time and your video, i just repaired mine, great video!
Thank you! Seems easy enough. One guy said T25 you say T30, will figure it out when I get there haha
Thank you ! I just remove driver door lock and it have same exact problem like yours.
I follow your metod and i fixed it, thank you very much.
Thanks to your video, I repaired mine. I used a 1.50 switch from radio shack online. Had to make a few modifications but it works.
Thanks for the video. My driver's side door has been driving me nuts with this. Going to try fixing it up now!
Good luck, glad I could be of service!
Great video, I have got to do mine, on the tt forums alot of people glue a small strip of plastic (from a yoghurt pot or similar) over the microswitch.
I managed to do it without removing the door lock itself. Remove door card and you can see the switch, i had to snip the plastic below the switch to allow me to get the clip out but was a half hour job
Thank you for this explanation! Greetz from Germany ✌😉
Glad to help!
How are you installing the hose clamp?! Are you cutting it and forcing it in the mounting position or is the clamp screw mechanism just not visible in this video? You've got me pulling my hair out because I need to do this and am unsure what you're doing on this video. Thanks for doing it...please answer asap.
How you dis connect the cable from the door handle to the actuator??
Is it a XZN key to open le side?
I got audi TT MK1... Why can't open the door after lock
will this cause a neg draw on battery while not in use? I think i may have this problem
It could cause the alarm system or maybe the radio to use excess energy when stuck in the open position. So Yes, this could be your problem!
current creation so if my windows aren’t adjusting on door open and close, can I assume both sensors need this treatment? It’s only a 70ma draw on my battery, and the need to disengage the door open sensor to do a multimeter parasitic draw test pulling fuses brought me to your video. I’m still trying to figure out how to disengage the door sensor to do the draw test. Any suggestions?
@@beaucottington first, yes it sounds like both doors need the same treatment. second, when you have the door apart, you can do the test on the switch to open and close the window as seen at about the 6:00 mark in my video. Test the draw before and after cycling the switch and that should hopefully answer your question. Please report back, would like to hear your findings!
EDIT: you could also hook up the mechanism to the door and just cycle the microswitch manually while it is apart as seen around the 3:30 mark
current creation will do thanks for the info mate
@@beaucottington good luck!!
Where can I buy the exact micro switch? I've seen it on AliExpress and eBay but I don't know if it is the right one.
Someone else said they found a replacement at radio shack. The whole reason I tore apart the mechanism to repair it was because I couldn’t find a factory replacement. Have to replace the whole mechanism.
Thank you! How hard was everything to re-install?
Not hard. Install is just reverse of removal. Only a few screws and the wire harnesses to connect.
The door card on a TT is incredibly simple to install.
@@currentcreation thank you again. I was having issues with the door handle connection. My switch had the rubber broken away. The plunger is gone. Now I am on the search for a micro switch that I can make work. Thank you for the great video!
Family Fun you’re welcome! Hope it helped. Be sure to like and subscribe. There will be more to come!
Thank you for this video, great material! :) I have a question. My driver side window has the same issue with the edition that in won't go down or up at all using the finger switch. Like when you open the window normally. I can't hear any relays clicking when i push the button. Do you have any idea what this could be? Wiring from the door to the inside of the car? Burnt motor? Any way to check this?
Thank you for any replies :)
Sounds like the motor. I have another video that I haven’t produced yet, where I handle a full regulator repair. I will try to get that up soon, but in the meantime I suggest testing the motor. Could just put a volt meter on the motor harness to find out
@@currentcreation Thanks for the answer. You don't happen to have a wiring diagram? or is it simply two wires?
www.bentleypublishers.com/audi/tt/2000-2006/Audi-TT-2000-2006-Repair-Manual.html page EWD-43 & 44 are the window wiring diagrams. Bentley is helpful if you need a diagram. Can’t recall how many wires, I would just test the signal on all of them to be sure that you are getting a signal to the motor. Could also pull the motor off and test it. Chances are pretty good though that if your motor is bad, it’s due to drag on the regulator. You may need to replace the whole thing.
Тоже делаю подобную скобу , но из полоски пластиковой бутылки. Резину не счищаю и по пластику скользит лучше и не изнашивается.
hi how did you disconnect the metal wire iside which is connected to the door lock?
Turn the connector 90 degrees and it slides right out
How do you disconnect the main wiring harness that runs off the door lock mechanism?
It is a typical wire harness used with VAG cars. There is a little tab on the side that needs to be pushed. Sometimes they are broken and you can just pull the harness loose, or may need to get a small flat screwdriver to slide under and lift the tab piece up a little to release. The end of the harness connector, that is part of the mechanism, has a little plastic wedge that the loom part of the harness grabs onto.
My door locks on both Doors spin round and round and will not lock. Any ideas?
sounds like the flat metal piece on the mechanism isn't turning with the key? maybe not lined up properly? is the flat part inserted into the slot on the door handle end? The first thing I'd suggest removing the mechanisms from the door; to see if they are assembled to the door correctly.
Could you or anyone here be able to share how to replace the boot lock latch on audi tt
Dang. You skipped right over the last step of taking it out...the part I was looking for. Where the short wire gets disconnected from the assembly just before you pull it out. I can't figure it out.
Just turn 90 degrees. Couldn’t get the camera in there.
Anyone have the part number on the switch if it's bad
I don't believe that the switch is sold by itself. You have to purchase the whole lock mechanism. This is the problem with just replacing it, and the reason I created a workaround. Some have found that replacing the microswitch with one from Radioshack or someplace similar works. You will need to glue it in place for it to stay though. Unfortunately, I do not have any of that specific information. Good luck!
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