I really liked this shoe, immediately climbed well with them. After a couple weeks I started getting really bad pain in my second toe while wearing them. I couldent even complete a boulder in them. I ended up selling them on Mountain Project. I think the toe profile isnt the most friendly if your second toe is as long as your first. If this shoe works for your foot I agree with this video, really a nice climbing shoe, felt super confident in my feet as soon as I started climbing in them.
I've strangely had similar experiences- have to remove every 10minutes and have started taping my 2nd toe for padding which helps - not something I've ever had to do with my other Scarpa's (Furia S and Furia Air). My big toe is actually shorter in length than my 2nd (weirdo!) and I find these also definitely fit smaller too so that probably contributes. Amazingly made shoe tho - I'm hoping they'll stretch out
I found this problem with my fourth toe as it is as long as my third toe. Basically the toe box profile on this is much more low volume and decreases more aggressively for the small toes are in comparison to the instinct VS and VSR. I blame it on the fully rubberised toe box as well which is a single piece. SCARPA should have at least split that toe rubber patch into two to give a bit of leeway for the differences between the big toe and small toe. TLDR if you have long small toes, this shoe isn't the one for you. I had to return mine as I felt my toes were going to break, and I don't think going up half a size from my normal instincts to solve the issue is ideal given this is a strapless design.
Exactly the same problem, my 2nd toe is as long as the 1st toe, after 1/2 hr session, the skin of the 2nd toe on both feet are teared off. Take two weeks to recover! 😢 So, have to return the shoes sadly.
Got a pair of these as a training slipper , was tossing up between these and the mantras ended up choosing these as the amount of leather of mantras makes me think it will bag out a ton . Pretty happy so far I'm mostly using them on overhung routes , spray walls and boards which I think they excel at . For me as a lighter climber I don't like using them on "comp style" boulders where there is alot of moving over large volumes as the rubber is abit too stiff for me . Have only had an issue with the heel once but that will always be a drawback with slippers and for the most part they stick on pretty well . Hopefully we will see the over shoes in the instinct line get the updates the S has.
Great overview. Interesting observation regarding comp-style problems, but I'm inclined to agree - with problems of that nature you're naturally going to want something like the Furia S or Drago. That said, neither of these shoes would offer the same all-round performance across multiple disciplines and rock types that the Instinct S offer. Hard to get it all isn't it?!
Coming from an Instinct VS I must say I love these shoes, and they fixed all the performance deficits for me. One of the biggest problems I had was the huge volume up front that would cause the rubber patch to 'bag out' when doing heavy toehooks/bathangs, but these solve the issue by not only making it lower volume, but also having the toepatch be structural to the whole shoe. I also like that the toe patch and side of the heel are stickier, rougher textured rubber which gives a confident response I haven't felt in any other shoe when I lock onto hooks. As for fit, I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this but the S is exactly .5 EU size down from the VS. I ordered it down thinking I could get an even tighter fit than my VS, but they ended up being the exact same size length-wise when I lined them up. Maybe it's due to being stretched out over a 10 months idk, but takeaway is size down by .5 from VS. I also think this shoe is narrower and just a bit more symmetrical of a fit than the VS, as I've been having to tape my index toe due to my big toe painfully scraping it while breaking in and used a shoe tree to target where the pinky knuckle meets the side piece of rubber. One last thing I like to mention but I know most people don't care, but they've absolutely nailed it in the looks factor and I hope they incorporate this stripe on all-black color schema across their other shoes. It's quite easy to color coordinate around these, especially if you have urban styling.
I'm glad you got on with it. Ever since the arrival of the Instinct S I've barely used the VS or VSR, which were previously my two shoes of choice, but are significantly outclassed by the S which is a huge step-up. It'll be interesting to see if they do an upgrade of the VS and VSR sometime in the near future, as I think they'd both benefit from it.
I had to return the Instinct S, since my fourth toe is quite long so it sticks out like a sore thumb when curled up. It's super painful because of the fully rubbered toe box, when I put pressure on the toes I felt that it was going to break them. The toe box for these for the small toes is much lower profile in comparison the normal instict vs/vsr of the same size, that area is the synthetic microfibre so it's a lot more comfortable. Probably solved by going half a size up, but for a shoe that does not have straps, having it snug is quite important.
I know you are probably working on the review but how do the new vapor s compare to the instinct? My vapor v fit my foot slightly better than my insticts vs and I'm really looking for a comparison the two slippers.
Funnily enough, I finished writing/filming the review on Friday. Both need to be edited, but they should be out soon, so keep an eye out over the next couple of weeks.
They're softer than their predecessor and also the rest of the Instinct range. That said, they've not super soft like the Drago or Furia, as they do have some support - particualrly throughout the toe and forefoot.
Any thoughts on how these would compare to Dragos as a supplement to Boostics? I've been trying to find a better trainer show, but nothing has fit my foot as well as my Boostics!
Interesting question, and one that's hard to answer, not least because of the fact that all the shoes in question are very, very good. If the Boostic fits your foot as well as it does then it's hard for me to suggest changing, but I'd definitely suggesting trying on a pair of Instinct S. They're obviously very different, so it's hard to compare like for like, but I much prefer them to the Boostic (although I think that's because I miss the stiffness and support that the predecessor to the latest model had).
@@ukclimbingofficial I actually have the older Boostics since I heard of the change in the recent model and impulse bought it! Absolutely love it, but it just feels overkill for most of my routes since I'm still a v4 climber. I guess I'll give both a try and just see what fits me best. I tried the Arpia, but I'm having to size down way more compared to the Boostics.
After a while they enlard like the la sportiva solution comp?(solution Comp are 42 1/5 [8,5]) I took the instict s 43.5(9.5) and my normal size is 45(11) I don't know if I exaggerated
I think they run a tad smaller than the VS and VSRs. I have them in the same size as my VSRs and S and i'd say they fit pretty good. I also like them, but i'd like the upgrades of this shoe to be incorporated into the VSRs (not the VS, i like it's edging abilitities). While the heel is very good, the lack of straps is a problem for intense bouldering heelhooks.
I think a lot of people compare the fit of their existing VS/VSRs and think they're a little bigger, but I'm not sure they actually are - it's just that they've been worn-in, hence have given a little. Comparing each like for like when new, they feel pretty similar - or at least they did to me. That said, everyone's feet are different...
@@ukclimbingofficial I climbed mine since End of January and i'm comparing them to quite new, unresoled VSRs. The Slippers are now one or two sessions away from a resole as i climbed in them quite a bit. But the sizing might actually differ a bit from batch to batch.
@@archis5656 my (well worn) VSR and S (also well worn) are the same size; i just checked by putting them against a wall, side by side. But +-2 mm might differ from batch to batch; also it's hard to measure this correctly.
I haven't used the Solution Comps, as they don't fit the shape of my foot. They're also a very different last to the Instinct S, so are quite difficult to compare, but if you are comparing them on size alone you'll realistically want to go up a full UK size in the Instinct S (i.e. UK 7 Solution Comp > UK 8 Instinct S). Once you've got them on your feet you'll be able to decide whether or not they work for you, but I really hope they do because they're absolutely brilliant.
As a newbie to the sport, can someone please recommend what size I should get these in. For normal shoes, I am a UK size 10. I got these scarpas in an EU 44 size (UK 10.5) and found them unbearably small/uncomfortable.
It’s worth going into a shop and trying a few different sizes on, and models (if you can).The Instinct S are a relatively advanced pair of shoes and if you’re starting out might be a little too aggressive. The Vapour V are worth trying if you’re looking for something more forgiving, although at the end of the day it’s whatever works for you’re foot - and that’s why we always recommend trying a fair few pairs on before committing.
I tried both the Instinct S and VSR and went with the ladder. I didn’t like the elasticity around the toes with the S; the permanent slight pressure was hurting my toes, while still feeling less secure than the non-elastic structure of the VSR. Other than that, the Instinct S seems better in every way.
I'm not sure you'll need to downsize. I'm a 41 in both the Drago and the Instinct S. If anything, the Drago feels a little tighter out the box, but size-wise I'd probably suggest starting with the same and going from there.
It's the Montane Fireball Lite Hoody, which isn't actually available until AW'22, but I've had a sample for the last few months and have used it non-stop since it arrived. It's similar to the Fireball, but features more breathable panelling under the arms, which I much prefer for active use, as it stops you getting quite as sweaty. I've used it for absolutely everything too: it's got a great cut for climbing, is good for layering whilst out walking, and (at least in my opinion) looks smart for more casual use too. In short: I've really, really liked it...
That’s a shame. Interesting though. They’re definitely different, but share a lot of similarities, although I thought the differences were all pretty positive. I haven’t worn my VSRs much since getting them, that’s for sure, but as always with these things - it’s whatever works best for you personally (and that’s different for everyone).
These look great, I usually climb with a 7.5 in the VSR with my street shoe being about 8 but would you recommend going down half a size extra with it being a slipper?
I'd stick to the same size as you are within the VSR, if that's what works for you. For what it's worth, I'm the same size in both the VS, VSR and the S. Always difficult to provide a truly accurate guide on sizing as everyones feet are different, but I the best place to start (assuming your VSRs fit well) would be to try the 7.5.
3.5mm XsGrip is such a shame, I understand the whole performance aspect but it's just sooo thin they'll wear out so far, the madrock drones 2 look super interesting, they have a 6mm sole on the rubber because there is no rand rubber but getting those resoled is probably such a pain in the arse
I haven't had any issues with them wearing out quickly. 3.5mm is - if anything - the industry standard these days. I can't comment on the Drone 2 as I haven't used them, but 6mm sounds like a lot. I can't image that they're the at all sensitive?! As always with these things though - each shoe has its strengths and weaknesses.
@@ukclimbingofficial It works out the same, a normal shoe has like 4 mm of sole rubber and 2 mm of rand rubber ontop where as the madrock drones is just one mold so there isn't any rand rubber, so it works out the same 6mm for both shoes
Great review, thanks. I love the fit of instincts: I have a wide forefoot and (I think) a fairly skinny heal. I can't get on with them though, because of the stitching which runs across the front (just below my toenail) of my big toe. After a while, it really starts to hurt and irritate. Anybody else find this is a problem?
This is quite a surprise, as Scarpa - at least from what I recall - position their stitching specifically to avoid situations such as this. I don’t have the shoes on me at moment to check, but it definitely comes as a surprise, and certainly isn’t something I’ve heard before.
@@ukclimbingofficialthanks for the response! it's probably me and my weird feet. they position the stitching specifically so it's not below the toe. that makes complete sense but for me I seem to get something (I think I'm assuming it's stitching!) digging in my big toe, and I've tried a few pairs.. it's terrible because instincts are pretty much a perfect fit/shoe in every other way! I'm now on a full on mission to find the perfect shoe (what I'm after is a reasonably soft, all rounder, that's comfortable and I can keep on for a reasonable amount of time indoors!) I'm going to try a skwama down 1.5 sizes; I tried a pair down 2 sizes and they were too narrow.. I think they would have probably stretched but I didn't want to take the risk with £130 shoes. I'm also going to try the 510 highangle but photos aren't massively encouraging for my foot shape. The mission continues and maybe I'll try a S, just in case (really feel like I always want some form of strap though!)
Whilst I may not like every update Scarpa do, if they did decide to update the toepatch on the Instinct VSR I'd have faith in them doing a good job of it - not least because of the fantastic job that they've done with this. Whilst it is indeed larger, the softer compound means you still get all that lift you're after, but with the added benefit of a bit more coverage.
I found this problem with my fourth toe as it is as long as my third toe. Basically the toe box profile on this is much more low volume and decreases more aggressively for the small toes are in comparison to the instinct VS and VSR. I blame it on the fully rubberised toe box as well which is a single piece. SCARPA should have at least split that toe rubber patch into two to give a bit of leeway for the differences between the big toe and small toe and the ability to as you've said flex the toe up for hooking. TLDR if you have long small toes, this shoe isn't the one for you, the toe curl is too aggressive that 1. it's painful, and 2. Bending to toe hook is difficult.
The Furia Air takes the spot for training shoe from these. Better midsole, easier fit, as comfortable, secure strap, more breathability, and about the only lack is not nearly as much rubber over the toe but plenty. If the price point weren’t so close then a nonissue, but the Instinct S are on my feet only to not expend my Furia Air, I’d as soon just have gotten an additional pair.
It's pretty tricky to compare the two, because the Instinct S is an all-rounder that can do a lot of things really well, whereas the Furia Air is massively specialist in comparison. It's good for training, comps, and potentially the odd (quite specific) problem outside, but other than that they're hugely limiting.
Maybe, but then you'd lose some of the build quality, which would (in turn) make it lower quality product. Also worth remembering that in the long run you can save money by getting them resoled and the fact they're built to such a high standard means that when you do this, they actually resole really well, rather than losing all shape and form.
I really liked this shoe, immediately climbed well with them. After a couple weeks I started getting really bad pain in my second toe while wearing them. I couldent even complete a boulder in them. I ended up selling them on Mountain Project. I think the toe profile isnt the most friendly if your second toe is as long as your first. If this shoe works for your foot I agree with this video, really a nice climbing shoe, felt super confident in my feet as soon as I started climbing in them.
I've strangely had similar experiences- have to remove every 10minutes and have started taping my 2nd toe for padding which helps - not something I've ever had to do with my other Scarpa's (Furia S and Furia Air). My big toe is actually shorter in length than my 2nd (weirdo!) and I find these also definitely fit smaller too so that probably contributes. Amazingly made shoe tho - I'm hoping they'll stretch out
I found this problem with my fourth toe as it is as long as my third toe. Basically the toe box profile on this is much more low volume and decreases more aggressively for the small toes are in comparison to the instinct VS and VSR. I blame it on the fully rubberised toe box as well which is a single piece. SCARPA should have at least split that toe rubber patch into two to give a bit of leeway for the differences between the big toe and small toe. TLDR if you have long small toes, this shoe isn't the one for you. I had to return mine as I felt my toes were going to break, and I don't think going up half a size from my normal instincts to solve the issue is ideal given this is a strapless design.
Exactly the same problem, my 2nd toe is as long as the 1st toe, after 1/2 hr session, the skin of the 2nd toe on both feet are teared off. Take two weeks to recover! 😢 So, have to return the shoes sadly.
Just got some Instinct VS, and they’re really good. This might be a great second shoe for smearing and overhang.
Got a pair of these as a training slipper , was tossing up between these and the mantras ended up choosing these as the amount of leather of mantras makes me think it will bag out a ton .
Pretty happy so far I'm mostly using them on overhung routes , spray walls and boards which I think they excel at .
For me as a lighter climber I don't like using them on "comp style" boulders where there is alot of moving over large volumes as the rubber is abit too stiff for me .
Have only had an issue with the heel once but that will always be a drawback with slippers and for the most part they stick on pretty well .
Hopefully we will see the over shoes in the instinct line get the updates the S has.
Great overview. Interesting observation regarding comp-style problems, but I'm inclined to agree - with problems of that nature you're naturally going to want something like the Furia S or Drago. That said, neither of these shoes would offer the same all-round performance across multiple disciplines and rock types that the Instinct S offer. Hard to get it all isn't it?!
Coming from an Instinct VS I must say I love these shoes, and they fixed all the performance deficits for me. One of the biggest problems I had was the huge volume up front that would cause the rubber patch to 'bag out' when doing heavy toehooks/bathangs, but these solve the issue by not only making it lower volume, but also having the toepatch be structural to the whole shoe. I also like that the toe patch and side of the heel are stickier, rougher textured rubber which gives a confident response I haven't felt in any other shoe when I lock onto hooks.
As for fit, I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this but the S is exactly .5 EU size down from the VS. I ordered it down thinking I could get an even tighter fit than my VS, but they ended up being the exact same size length-wise when I lined them up. Maybe it's due to being stretched out over a 10 months idk, but takeaway is size down by .5 from VS. I also think this shoe is narrower and just a bit more symmetrical of a fit than the VS, as I've been having to tape my index toe due to my big toe painfully scraping it while breaking in and used a shoe tree to target where the pinky knuckle meets the side piece of rubber.
One last thing I like to mention but I know most people don't care, but they've absolutely nailed it in the looks factor and I hope they incorporate this stripe on all-black color schema across their other shoes. It's quite easy to color coordinate around these, especially if you have urban styling.
I'm glad you got on with it. Ever since the arrival of the Instinct S I've barely used the VS or VSR, which were previously my two shoes of choice, but are significantly outclassed by the S which is a huge step-up. It'll be interesting to see if they do an upgrade of the VS and VSR sometime in the near future, as I think they'd both benefit from it.
Ooo, I can't imagine anything being better than the Instinct VS for me but I do like a slipper. Will check these out!
They're a truly incredible shoe and if you like the VS my suspicion is you'll love these
I had to return the Instinct S, since my fourth toe is quite long so it sticks out like a sore thumb when curled up. It's super painful because of the fully rubbered toe box, when I put pressure on the toes I felt that it was going to break them. The toe box for these for the small toes is much lower profile in comparison the normal instict vs/vsr of the same size, that area is the synthetic microfibre so it's a lot more comfortable. Probably solved by going half a size up, but for a shoe that does not have straps, having it snug is quite important.
Fit, as always, is the most important factor and if they don’t fit you - they’re definitely not for you.
I know you are probably working on the review but how do the new vapor s compare to the instinct? My vapor v fit my foot slightly better than my insticts vs and I'm really looking for a comparison the two slippers.
Funnily enough, I finished writing/filming the review on Friday. Both need to be edited, but they should be out soon, so keep an eye out over the next couple of weeks.
In term of stiffness, where do they stand please ?
They're softer than their predecessor and also the rest of the Instinct range. That said, they've not super soft like the Drago or Furia, as they do have some support - particualrly throughout the toe and forefoot.
Any thoughts on how these would compare to Dragos as a supplement to Boostics? I've been trying to find a better trainer show, but nothing has fit my foot as well as my Boostics!
Interesting question, and one that's hard to answer, not least because of the fact that all the shoes in question are very, very good. If the Boostic fits your foot as well as it does then it's hard for me to suggest changing, but I'd definitely suggesting trying on a pair of Instinct S. They're obviously very different, so it's hard to compare like for like, but I much prefer them to the Boostic (although I think that's because I miss the stiffness and support that the predecessor to the latest model had).
@@ukclimbingofficial I actually have the older Boostics since I heard of the change in the recent model and impulse bought it! Absolutely love it, but it just feels overkill for most of my routes since I'm still a v4 climber. I guess I'll give both a try and just see what fits me best. I tried the Arpia, but I'm having to size down way more compared to the Boostics.
After a while they enlard like the la sportiva solution comp?(solution Comp are 42 1/5 [8,5]) I took the instict s 43.5(9.5) and my normal size is 45(11) I don't know if I exaggerated
I’m confused by what your question is - is it whether or not they stretch after use?
@@ukclimbingofficialyes
I think they run a tad smaller than the VS and VSRs. I have them in the same size as my VSRs and S and i'd say they fit pretty good.
I also like them, but i'd like the upgrades of this shoe to be incorporated into the VSRs (not the VS, i like it's edging abilitities). While the heel is very good, the lack of straps is a problem for intense bouldering heelhooks.
I think a lot of people compare the fit of their existing VS/VSRs and think they're a little bigger, but I'm not sure they actually are - it's just that they've been worn-in, hence have given a little. Comparing each like for like when new, they feel pretty similar - or at least they did to me. That said, everyone's feet are different...
@@ukclimbingofficial I climbed mine since End of January and i'm comparing them to quite new, unresoled VSRs. The Slippers are now one or two sessions away from a resole as i climbed in them quite a bit.
But the sizing might actually differ a bit from batch to batch.
side by side these are about half a centimetre longer than the VSR/VS Instincts. I've actually measured them on the shop today.
@@archis5656 my (well worn) VSR and S (also well worn) are the same size; i just checked by putting them against a wall, side by side.
But +-2 mm might differ from batch to batch; also it's hard to measure this correctly.
Is a narrow foot can fit this shoes (low volume - 25 cm longer)?
I wouldn’t say that they’re especially narrow in/around the forefoot, but they are in the heel. They’d certainly be worth trying on though.
Anyone know how these compare to Solution Comps as far as sizing? 🤔
I haven't used the Solution Comps, as they don't fit the shape of my foot. They're also a very different last to the Instinct S, so are quite difficult to compare, but if you are comparing them on size alone you'll realistically want to go up a full UK size in the Instinct S (i.e. UK 7 Solution Comp > UK 8 Instinct S). Once you've got them on your feet you'll be able to decide whether or not they work for you, but I really hope they do because they're absolutely brilliant.
@@ukclimbingofficial awesome! Thanks for the help 👊🏽
I am a UK 8 and have the VS and VSR at UK 7. For my foot shape with long small toes, these shoes are impossible. I had to go to UK 7.5 for these.
As a newbie to the sport, can someone please recommend what size I should get these in. For normal shoes, I am a UK size 10. I got these scarpas in an EU 44 size (UK 10.5) and found them unbearably small/uncomfortable.
It’s worth going into a shop and trying a few different sizes on, and models (if you can).The Instinct S are a relatively advanced pair of shoes and if you’re starting out might be a little too aggressive. The Vapour V are worth trying if you’re looking for something more forgiving, although at the end of the day it’s whatever works for you’re foot - and that’s why we always recommend trying a fair few pairs on before committing.
@@ukclimbingofficial Perfect advice, cheers man!
I tried both the Instinct S and VSR and went with the ladder. I didn’t like the elasticity around the toes with the S; the permanent slight pressure was hurting my toes, while still feeling less secure than the non-elastic structure of the VSR.
Other than that, the Instinct S seems better in every way.
It’s definitely best to go with whatever works best for you 👍
I want to buy the scarpa instinct s. I have scarpa drago lv in size 36.5, should I downsize to 35.5 or 36?
I'm not sure you'll need to downsize. I'm a 41 in both the Drago and the Instinct S. If anything, the Drago feels a little tighter out the box, but size-wise I'd probably suggest starting with the same and going from there.
Thank you so much for the answer🙏
What jacket are you wearing Rob?
It's the Montane Fireball Lite Hoody, which isn't actually available until AW'22, but I've had a sample for the last few months and have used it non-stop since it arrived. It's similar to the Fireball, but features more breathable panelling under the arms, which I much prefer for active use, as it stops you getting quite as sweaty. I've used it for absolutely everything too: it's got a great cut for climbing, is good for layering whilst out walking, and (at least in my opinion) looks smart for more casual use too. In short: I've really, really liked it...
@@ukclimbingofficial Cheers Rob!
@@curlew. No problem. We'll get a review filmed sometime throughout the autumn, so keep an eye out.
Really wanted to like these Rob but I really dont get on with them. They are very different to instinct velcro
That’s a shame. Interesting though. They’re definitely different, but share a lot of similarities, although I thought the differences were all pretty positive. I haven’t worn my VSRs much since getting them, that’s for sure, but as always with these things - it’s whatever works best for you personally (and that’s different for everyone).
I think these are the best do anything shoe on the market now. I’ll probably be using them outdoors even though they’re my main gym shoe right now
It really is impressive how good they are at just about everything!!
These look great, I usually climb with a 7.5 in the VSR with my street shoe being about 8 but would you recommend going down half a size extra with it being a slipper?
I'd stick to the same size as you are within the VSR, if that's what works for you. For what it's worth, I'm the same size in both the VS, VSR and the S. Always difficult to provide a truly accurate guide on sizing as everyones feet are different, but I the best place to start (assuming your VSRs fit well) would be to try the 7.5.
I am a UK 8 and have the VS and VSR at UK 7. For my foot shape with long small toes, these shoes are impossible. I had to go to UK 7.5 for these.
3.5mm XsGrip is such a shame, I understand the whole performance aspect but it's just sooo thin they'll wear out so far, the madrock drones 2 look super interesting, they have a 6mm sole on the rubber because there is no rand rubber but getting those resoled is probably such a pain in the arse
I haven't had any issues with them wearing out quickly. 3.5mm is - if anything - the industry standard these days. I can't comment on the Drone 2 as I haven't used them, but 6mm sounds like a lot. I can't image that they're the at all sensitive?! As always with these things though - each shoe has its strengths and weaknesses.
@@ukclimbingofficial It works out the same, a normal shoe has like 4 mm of sole rubber and 2 mm of rand rubber ontop where as the madrock drones is just one mold so there isn't any rand rubber, so it works out the same 6mm for both shoes
Great review, thanks. I love the fit of instincts: I have a wide forefoot and (I think) a fairly skinny heal. I can't get on with them though, because of the stitching which runs across the front (just below my toenail) of my big toe. After a while, it really starts to hurt and irritate. Anybody else find this is a problem?
This is quite a surprise, as Scarpa - at least from what I recall - position their stitching specifically to avoid situations such as this. I don’t have the shoes on me at moment to check, but it definitely comes as a surprise, and certainly isn’t something I’ve heard before.
@@ukclimbingofficialthanks for the response! it's probably me and my weird feet. they position the stitching specifically so it's not below the toe. that makes complete sense but for me I seem to get something (I think I'm assuming it's stitching!) digging in my big toe, and I've tried a few pairs.. it's terrible because instincts are pretty much a perfect fit/shoe in every other way! I'm now on a full on mission to find the perfect shoe (what I'm after is a reasonably soft, all rounder, that's comfortable and I can keep on for a reasonable amount of time indoors!) I'm going to try a skwama down 1.5 sizes; I tried a pair down 2 sizes and they were too narrow.. I think they would have probably stretched but I didn't want to take the risk with £130 shoes. I'm also going to try the 510 highangle but photos aren't massively encouraging for my foot shape. The mission continues and maybe I'll try a S, just in case (really feel like I always want some form of strap though!)
Lets hope they don‘t bring the new toepatch to the instinct vsr. Love the smaller one to be really able to lift your toe while toehooking
Whilst I may not like every update Scarpa do, if they did decide to update the toepatch on the Instinct VSR I'd have faith in them doing a good job of it - not least because of the fantastic job that they've done with this. Whilst it is indeed larger, the softer compound means you still get all that lift you're after, but with the added benefit of a bit more coverage.
I found this problem with my fourth toe as it is as long as my third toe. Basically the toe box profile on this is much more low volume and decreases more aggressively for the small toes are in comparison to the instinct VS and VSR. I blame it on the fully rubberised toe box as well which is a single piece. SCARPA should have at least split that toe rubber patch into two to give a bit of leeway for the differences between the big toe and small toe and the ability to as you've said flex the toe up for hooking. TLDR if you have long small toes, this shoe isn't the one for you, the toe curl is too aggressive that 1. it's painful, and 2. Bending to toe hook is difficult.
The Furia Air takes the spot for training shoe from these. Better midsole, easier fit, as comfortable, secure strap, more breathability, and about the only lack is not nearly as much rubber over the toe but plenty. If the price point weren’t so close then a nonissue, but the Instinct S are on my feet only to not expend my Furia Air, I’d as soon just have gotten an additional pair.
It's pretty tricky to compare the two, because the Instinct S is an all-rounder that can do a lot of things really well, whereas the Furia Air is massively specialist in comparison. It's good for training, comps, and potentially the odd (quite specific) problem outside, but other than that they're hugely limiting.
good trainer for the price, would be better if cheaper
Maybe, but then you'd lose some of the build quality, which would (in turn) make it lower quality product. Also worth remembering that in the long run you can save money by getting them resoled and the fact they're built to such a high standard means that when you do this, they actually resole really well, rather than losing all shape and form.