What Size UV Steriliser Do I Need?
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- In this episode I am going to work out what size and type UV steriliser I need for my Dream Reef Tank build and why.
I've never quarantined my fish before and don't really have plans on doing so anytime soon. I tend to pick "safer option" fish, only purchase healthy fish and have always ran UV sterilisers. I recognise this approach doesn't work for all, but has worked for me in the past and is something I don't plan on changing.
What I do need to change however, is the UV steriliser to ensure I have something up to the task on this much larger Dream Reef Tank.
Let me take you along for the ride as I work out the flow rate and size unit I need to accomplish white spot management in my tank.
Be sure to check out www.freshbydesign.com.au for further information on sizing up your next UV steriliser! 
Животные
Just got myself a Pentair 40w! Can't wait to see how you plumb it altogether!
Sensational!!! Yeah mine is here and will be running today, video next weekend :D
Awesome video. I went with the 40w Pentair unit for my current 100Gallon (380liter) tank build. It's way big for my Sump area but I am excited for it to be part of the overall equipment package.
You won’t be disappointed with the result I am sure :)
Awesome series 👍🏻
Thank you so much :D
Good choice Sam. I went for the Lifeguard Aquatics 120watt. Water clarity was like 😱 whoa! Overnight!
Yeah that’s a beast mate!!
The benefit of U.V as well as white spot, it also kills of other bacteria. I have always run one from aquariums to Koi pond,s and if it means I don't have to drop meds in, I'm all for it. Keep the information and the good work going.
absolutely! Great devices :)
Great video as always I the fresh by design guys are awesome they helped me pick mine I also went with the 80w on my 850L awesome quality product very well built if I can suggest something make sure you clean the sleeve regularly after 3 months mine was caked and took a bit of effort to remove the built up calcium looking forward to your next video
Good tip. Will do!
Love your videos mate as always. Keep it up :D
Thanks a ton!
@@ParkersReef forgive me if you adressed it but you planning to run a seperate pump for uv or run hose from one of your manifold taps/outlets?
Great question! I plan on running it off of my accessory pump (I have 2 abyzz a200 pumps which can be isolated or combined)
@@ParkersReef crazy price tag but with a 10 year warranty seems a quality pump. Cant wait for updates 👍👍👍👍
They are a super high quality pump!
In my opinion a UV is essential equipment. I currently have a Foxface covered in MWS but none of my other fish have it so they certainly work. I run 2 40w Eheim units which works for me.
Yeah they are very useful!
Awesome info thank you so much! Beautiful tank! Clowns be Clownin
Thanks for watching!
Simple rule: If you want it for algae control (Dinos included) go with a UV size that gives you 30-45K mu/cm2. You'd be able to run it at higher gph which will help algae, as it grows fast.
If you want it for ich and other parasites, go with 90,000 mu/cm2. This will be at a lower gph and will not be as effective against algae but will sterilize ich.
If you want both, go with an oversized version that will be you 5-7x your turnover at 90,000 mu/cm2.
perfect, thank you!
Nice explanation now iam doing mathematics to my tank for new UV thanks for vedieo......
Haha good stuff. Yell out if you have any questions :)
Great vid again just wish could get pentair in uk. But getting tmc big uv to go on my new system to replace my d&d one yeah!!!
oh no pentair distributor in the UK????? Madness!
@@ParkersReef can’t find one at mo will have words with boss at shop I work at one Monday tmc is for industrial use so shouldn’t be far off the pentair lol
Thanks Sam, a great video and well explained. I am thinking of the 50W unit for our 940lt tank, what do you think? Or, if you haven't already, would you consider parting with your old one?
One more question. If you run the UV at the required rate for white spot control, does that mean you are also catering for the algae control or should you really have a separate unit for algae control?
Hey John, yes I reckon a 50w would be perfect. That needs 600lph for white spot dosage and that's going to process your whole tank within an hour and a half - so right in the sweet spot :)
By the book, they say it won't address algae control at whitest flow levels, but I cannot help but feel it will 'help'. The logic behind it not is that the algae cells reproduce much much quicker, but require much less exposure to kill, so in effect you attack them by a much faster flow.
But even without that faster flow - you will still be sterilising the water that does pass through the reactor for algae as well, so it has to help :)
Hi do you run the uv 24/7?
Mate this is super helpful. I was just looking at beefing up my unit for every 1-2hrs lol. Can’t wait to see where you put it. Will you use your manifold to run it?
Yeah will go on the manifold and will be going outside in my chiller box :)
@@ParkersReef you mentioned that my bad. I thought they had to go vertically for air bubbles so I’ll be learning something new.
@@aarondus all good dude!! They can go horizontally, but need to have the inlet and outlet facing upwards and ideally angle the unit so the exit is higher :)
Really enjoyed the break down here, Sam. I've been thru that site once or twice, as well as others, and never quite sure how all the data came out in real English.
You mention running this unit with your chiller...is that inline, or just in the same area but on its own circuit? I ask because if it's inline, how does that affect chiller performance and flow rates?
Finally, do you think the 50W unit (500-1000) is too large for a 380L tank with parasite control the objective...?
Hey Adam, yeah the plan is to run inline with my chiller as the two flow rates are aligning (which makes life much easier for me!). Would not be possible if my chiller and UV needed different flow rates, which could be the case in future if I wish to speed up flow for algae control.
I think the 50w would be a touch oversized (and therefore probably a good purchase). You want to flow 10LPM through that 50w for white spot control, which is 600lph. That's going to pass all of the water in your tank through the UV every 40mins or so. Realistically, you could drop down to the 40w unit and flow 450lph through it. That'd turn your entire tank volume over in just under an hour.
@@ParkersReef Great response, cheers for taking the time 👍👍
Sam are you running the UV through a separate DC pump, like a versa or did you just reduce flow through a valve. I cant remember from your dream reef tank build updates
Hey Martin, I’m running the chiller and UV off a separate pump :)
Great Video. 2 questions please.
Does UV goes with Zeovit, if not fully then partially? What is the best time to run UV if employed with any carbon dosing techniques?
Does UV impact the skimmer performance in anyway, I have noticed my skimmate and foam is not as thick since I started running UV?
Awesome questions! I've never been too into the "zeo reef" methodology so couldn't really answer if it is suited to their approach or not, but I couldn't see why not.
Best time to run a UV is 24/7, switching them on and off is not advised as it is a bit harder on the bulb and there is no real reason to switch it off other than for maintenance. I haven't noticed any change on the skimmer, but my tank doesn't exactly have a huge bio load yet!
@@ParkersReef for some reason zeovit systems recommends not using UV or ozone but it does not tell why!
Maybe a topic for your next video. 🙂
@@kamranasif2004 Zeovit system depend much on their bacterias system, so a UV and Ozone is not recommended, because those equipments will kill off the bacterias, and then the zeovit system may not work well. If you want an expected result from Zeovit system, you should follow their instruction. Ortherwise, if you do it in a different way, you have to test and investigate yourself.
Have a 25w Emperor (Pentair) on my 36G going to a 180g, on the 36G I have a Sicce .5 turned all the way down in tank and in the 180 going to try Sicce 1.0 as a third return pump for it. The graphs referenced don’t include a 25w UV but on a tank around 680L the recommended turn over is still less then 2 times per hour so I think is acceptable or will Atleast make a difference. Also QTing in copper and some fallow periods. I will have tangs Sailfin, Mimic and twin spot bristle tooth. With the Pentair/Emperor I think the 1-2 times per hour seems scable
It will still help, but it is a considerably larger tank you are moving too!
I came here hoping you'd shared your spreadsheet. Yes, I could work it out myself, but I'm lazy. :-)
haha I'll have to send it to you, can you shoot me a message with an email address?
As usual, a great video. I have never used UV and this was very educational. I have just seen another RUclips video where 3 tangs and a fox face have been “dumped” in a small quarantine setup. Not a great approach in my opinion?
I can’t really comment on quarantine as I don’t do it, but there is more to it than the method you e described there for sure 😬
sorry forgot to say thanks for watching too!
Nice video it was very helpful. Next video could we get some swim time, I’d love to see a few minutes of those clowns swimming in that ocean of a tank of yours.
hahaha yes, soon enough. They are pretty much staying in the same square centimetre at the moment, when another fish goes in the tank (perhaps in the next couple weeks), they move a little then :D
I figured you meant the clown in front of the camera :-)
@@ak9381 hahaha you got me 😛
Nice 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
How do you feel about running 2 smaller units to cover both flow rates for bacteria and Ich?
I would have liked to do that but I only have on UV. (57 aqua).. I do have two RPs that take turns altering flow rates (10% then 40%) which I feel covers both bacteria and Ich. That why I got a larger unit for my system.
The main reason I have the UV is for Ich so I’m not to concerned about the higher flow for bacteria. Just a bonus really.
when you say higher flow rate for bacteria, you mean algae yeah? Realistically I don't think alternating flow will work all that well, but I cant say I have tried that in practice - only my thought process.
Personally I'd have it set for your primary use case (white spot in our case) but have it possible to change the flow to address algae should you need it at some point.
@@ParkersReef Yeah. Higher flow is for algae and bacteria. Though luckily I’ve never had problems with algae or bacteria blooms and my water is super clear. It’s just that I like the added random flow it adds on top of my wave makers by alternating them.
I did get UV primarily for white spot.
I have been running it with the alternating flow for a several months (4 or 5)now and it has improved my situation. I used to see spots here and there on my blue, purple and Thompson tang all the time. They’ve been spot free since the install. Fingers crossed I’m on the right track.
Also.
I have been planning on setting my RPs to a constant flow though since I know it’ll be the best performance for Ich. I just love my flow ya know.
Thanks for all your vids and help you send to the reefers around the world.
Assuming your goal is ich management, if i get an oversized UV n set the flow at the recommended dose for white spots & still able to turn your tank for water clarity.
yes you can tackle it that way.
I am wondering will it be ok if I get a UV which is larger than what my tank need. Will that be ok?
I am running a 320ltr tank with sump and I am planning to get a AquaUV Classic 57w.
What do you think?
I don't know the dosage rates on the aquaUV units, but if it is too large - it won't pose any risk. It could potentially heat the water a little extra than you need - thats about all.
@@ParkersReef thanks for the tips
Great Video Sam takes the guess work out for everyone. I'm currently running a aquatwist 25 watt on a minireef 120 on closed loop inside the display. I've had the pump fail once with UV stuck on, any ideas for a diy solution for power monitoring a pump that can detect failure and switch off UV?
Hey. Just thought I’d throw in my .02. If you use an Apex controller you can set the UV to turn off if your pump stops pulling power(power monitor task). You can also program it to turn off during feed modes and other things as needed.
This is the way I have mine set up and seems to work well. Of course you’ll need a Neptune Apex. $499 at least.
you bet. Also easily achievable with $15 wifi power controllers though :)
@Andrew - Check out the Grid Connect wifi power outlets. You can buy single outlets that have power monitoring and then setup a basic program that switches the UV off if the power consumption on the supply pump drops below a set point. Cheap and easy :D
that's awesome Sam saves me buying an apex :) I have the arlec grid connect power board. so I'm guessing I will have to buy the single power meter one aswell? or can the board itself do the same function
@@andrewtempleton1976 that’s pretty nifty. Sam’s the man. I should just keep my .02 to myself. Lol.
How many watts for a 31 gallon do you think the innovative marine mid size Uv be sufficient 11 watts ?
really depends on what you're targeting and what radiation the 11 watt unit provides. Innovative marine should have specs on that (and if not, give it a miss)
i have cade 2100 do u think the E120S Pentair SMART UV Sterilizer is good choice ?
80w would likely be enough, but 120 would be great if you can fit it
I’d go 80 . 120 be good bit more power on going n nlike u said for what ur planing to keep
Yeah 120 is a beast!!
Hi there,
Do you think a 20-25 watt uv would be ideal for a 225-250 litre reef tank and litre per hour return pump do you think please ?
Darren.
Hey Darren, 25w would be perfect according to the Pentair sizing chart here:
freshbydesign.com.au/aquaponic-aquaculture-products/uv-sterilizers-and-spares/pentair-smart-uv-sterilizer/
It also recommends 35LPM flow through it, but bare in mind that it is specific to each unit. So if comparing a different brand, seek their information :)
@@ParkersReef thank you, appreciate the information & reply, have a great day 🙏🏼👍🏻
You too mate!
Hey bro, could I run a UV light and a refugium? I need the UV for water quality from my ato and I need the refugium for my pods
Absolutely! I will be :)
Why do you need a UV on your ATO?!?!
Well it's not for my ato. But my ato I bought new was like 170 usd and when I got it, it ran a poor tds so when I use it for top off water in my tank, basically Dino grows and the UV is the only thing that stops that... But at the same time I like my refugium as it grows pods for which I'm keeping for my mandrin coming soon.. Im just concerned that if I run both at the same time the UV will not allow my chaeto to grow
@@dhasvirsewnandan7472 sounds like your RODI needs improving, should be easy enough to get 0 TDS from a quality RODI unit?
I have realised now, it does not seem to be working as well as I hoped it will. I was stupid and thought a 170 dollar roDI would work but not really.. I replaced all cartridges and resin.. But no.. So for now I'm stuck with it till I can get some cash saved up for a better unit..
But could I run the UV and refugium together?
@@dhasvirsewnandan7472 yes no problem
Best way of not getting white spot...QT!
It's one way. Doesn't exactly guarantee anything though
I think you chose the right size unit - UV is about the correct exposure rate not size 😜
The two are often interconnected though ;)
A QT setup would cost a lot less 😜
not after it loses an expensive fish ;)
🤤
You bet!
What a beautiful aquarium !! However - as a nano aquarium person , I am quite offended by your comment about nano’s being ‘ toys’ . It takes a lot of time and effort to keep small aquariums looking good and working well - more so than big ones - because bigger tanks function as an ecosystem better and stabilise more easily . Are bonsai trees ‘ toys’ ? Come on guys - stop the fishy snobbery!!!!!
you may have missed the Australian tongue-in-cheek humour there ;)
Well looks like something happened because your video had the audio taken off probably copyright infringement strike on 4 something
Audio working fine here and no strikes reported, can I get you to please try again?
First
All over it!!!
@@ParkersReef Very much, contemplating adding a UV myself...thanks for your videos..always informative 👍🏻
My pleasure!
Lmao....1300.00 for a uv sterilizer. No, amazon 80w uv sterilizers all day for 200.00
Been there, done that, didn't enjoy the experience - but go for it :)
@@ParkersReef Go for it? Already own 2 of them for different setups... work perfectly, no leaks, knocked out visible ich in 4 days on 300g tank.
LOL I should have expected nothing less from your dream build than more blatant money wasting....you youtube guys and your ecotech Dutch ruddering lmao. It just rubs me the wrong way because ALL of you including BRS give noobs the impression to be successful you need to drop $$$$$$$.
Funniest shit, my $100 t5 fixtures with ati bulbs are gonna outlast & outperform your $1500 led dream lights.....seen enough said enough block me clown 🍆🍩
All good dude - you can approach reefing how you like, I'm not forcing you to do anything :)
No need to block you, your input is welcome and appreciated. Have a good day!