Thank you for doing this video. The Thompson is my home defense sabre and I appreciate your opinion on it. I am a giant so the weight is not an issue for me.
If that's what you got then it's better than harsh language and a pointed finger. I'd rather use a 12 gauge but I understand not everyone has that Right.
@@ernestolynch1926 I'll do it for a rapier or backsword with the POB a lot closer to the hand. I will be reviewing the new Hanwei Mortuary which is 1020g with a 10cm POB.
@@Hercules1-v9m I qualify as a firearms "super owner" (glad to know I'm in the top 2% of something) but would still consider a good knife in tight spaces with the kids home. Out in the wide world, if I'm allowed, I'll carry both.
Cool video. As a left-hander, I've been wanting a nice saber that can fit my preferences, since there's so many of them out there made for right-handed people.
In the past, various cultures used clay as a practice for sword cutting, and many HEMA enthusiasts still do so today. The clay was given different shapes: spheres, bricks, cones. Here, for example, is an excerpt from an article about how the training of the Mamelukes is described in an ancient treatise: "The beginner will start with a mound of clay that is shaped, as the text describes, as the hump of a camel. This clay is wet and should be on a platform that raises the top of the mound to about the bellybutton of the person doing the exercise. It is also important that the clay be pure; meaning no pebbles, stones, or other debris. This will prevent damage to the blade in the exercise." . There is an interesting video from the pre-WWI era with a demonstration of clay cutting: “historical weaponology cutting clay”. Of course, clay also has its drawbacks, for example, impurities can damage the blade, so it is worth using a training sword. But clay is eco-friendly and can be reused many times, unlike plastic bottles, tatami and cardboard. I also heard about practicing knife stab in the past on a box of clay standing on its side. Perhaps kinetic sand can be used as an alternative to clay. I saw a video with such an experiment, kinetic sand showed itself to be suitable for this purpose, although it is not clear how long it retains its plastic state.
@@michaelrizzo5523 Yes, perhaps. It’s probably worth doing some experiments on a small amount first to get an idea of how it behaves during cutting, whether it sticks too much to the metal of the blade, or whether it will fly into small pieces that will then be difficult to collect.
This is one that I'm personally a bit luke warm on. That blade type is a bit too chonky for foot combat imo & I am not a huge fan of lots of hand protection. Mostly b/c the martial systems I use are meant to work without it but also b/c they are cumbersome & thus not fun to wear or carry around. I do cut quite a lot (hence my shoulder acting up lately). I do find it helpful in making sure my attacks would actually cut as well as figuring out exactly what adjustments I need to make in order to get the most out of each swing.
There are a few things I don’t really like about this sabre. Mainly the lack of enough distal taper for a 1796 style blade, which makes an already very forward balanced sabre feel needlessly sluggish. Also, the checkered backstrap, meant to encourage a sabre grip. The 1796 was designed and intended to be used with a hammer/handshake grip, not a sabre grip. I have the windlass 1796, and it’s honestly one of my favorite swords. The 8mm-1mm distal taper is amazing, and it hardly weighs over a pound and a half. For such a wide blade with a forward balance, it still feels very nimble. Ironically, an accurately reproduced 1796 makes a better foot-combat sword than the Thompson sabre. If they released a slightly tweaked version of this with a shorter and narrower blade (maybe without the blueing) I’d probably love it, it already looks very sleek stock, it just doesn’t feel good in the hand for me.
I was thinking I'd have to slim this down a lot but decided for now to leave it a bit heavier. It might also be interesting to cut one down into a cutlass.
Are you saving best for last? Looking forward to your french saber review. I'm somwaht interested in the Windlass version... I'm under the impression that windlass makes C.S. So, wondering if theyre basically the same... also hoping Windlass improved distal taper on their own version, perhpasn they're learning from the wild successes of the accurate 1796...??? Thoughts?
The new Windlass 1796 was influenced by their Matt Easton collaborations to get one with museum quality specs and the distal taper and weight seem right. CS still seems to be running with their old crowbar.
of the pirate cutlass, napolean saber, 1796, thompson saber, if you were to choose one for home defense in modern times with another one handed projectile weapon in your other hand (firearm, pepper gel, pepper ball pistol etc) what would you choose?
I might actually go for one of the Apoc Tacticals. Or a Japanese style sword. I've been spending a lot of time lately with the Thompson to make it work for me. And I did just break down and order the new Matt Easton 1796 from Windlass (and a Falchion), so stay tuned. Intriguing scenario thought!
@@vanrickenstien I took advantage of the Museum Replicas Black Friday discount to order the 1796 and St Michael. They're pretty much the same company as Atlanta Cutlery, Windlass' primary US distributors.
Excellent review of a poorly executed sabre. The blade is not as wide as the 1796 sabre, which is widening towards the point, and the grooves are noticeably different. Distal tapering?... I also like the 1796 model for Indian troops (I have one in my collection) with the three-bar knuckle guard.
@michaelrizzo5523 Do it. Gotta be one of my favorite swords... sometimes, I play a game with myself ( usually while walking): if you could only keep ONE of your swords, which would it be... she always makes it on the short list...
Thank you for doing this video. The Thompson is my home defense sabre and I appreciate your opinion on it. I am a giant so the weight is not an issue for me.
The "Home Defense Saber" is an awesome concept!
Good for you! :) I never consider any sword that is heavier than 900 g.
If that's what you got then it's better than harsh language and a pointed finger. I'd rather use a 12 gauge but I understand not everyone has that Right.
@@ernestolynch1926 I'll do it for a rapier or backsword with the POB a lot closer to the hand. I will be reviewing the new Hanwei Mortuary which is 1020g with a 10cm POB.
@@Hercules1-v9m I qualify as a firearms "super owner" (glad to know I'm in the top 2% of something) but would still consider a good knife in tight spaces with the kids home. Out in the wide world, if I'm allowed, I'll carry both.
The initial way you had the "Sheath" is "presenting" outward but that other scabbard is right on the money.
Cool! Thanks! Not sure it’s black enough though.
One of my favorites. It really Works out om my Cavalry Saber Range mounted cutting 🐎⚔️🤠
I bet it does! Not many of us get to practice off horseback! Bravo!
Do you also cut from horseback? Your atv test cutting has a post-apoalyptic wild west feel and a weird practcality.
So far only from ATV, Maby someday on horse 👌⚔️@@petermonzel5450
Cool video. As a left-hander, I've been wanting a nice saber that can fit my preferences, since there's so many of them out there made for right-handed people.
Frustrates my ambidextrous practice as well. I wind up defaulting to a minimal stirrup like the 1796.
In the past, various cultures used clay as a practice for sword cutting, and many HEMA enthusiasts still do so today. The clay was given different shapes: spheres, bricks, cones. Here, for example, is an excerpt from an article about how the training of the Mamelukes is described in an ancient treatise:
"The beginner will start with a mound of clay that is shaped, as the text describes, as the hump of a camel. This clay is wet and should be on a platform that raises the top of the mound to about the bellybutton of the person doing the exercise. It is also important that the clay be pure; meaning no pebbles, stones, or other debris. This will prevent damage to the blade in the exercise." .
There is an interesting video from the pre-WWI era with a demonstration of clay cutting: “historical weaponology cutting clay”.
Of course, clay also has its drawbacks, for example, impurities can damage the blade, so it is worth using a training sword. But clay is eco-friendly and can be reused many times, unlike plastic bottles, tatami and cardboard. I also heard about practicing knife stab in the past on a box of clay standing on its side.
Perhaps kinetic sand can be used as an alternative to clay. I saw a video with such an experiment, kinetic sand showed itself to be suitable for this purpose, although it is not clear how long it retains its plastic state.
That is a fantastic idea! Perhaps Plasticine modeling clay that doesn't harden?
@@michaelrizzo5523 Yes, perhaps. It’s probably worth doing some experiments on a small amount first to get an idea of how it behaves during cutting, whether it sticks too much to the metal of the blade, or whether it will fly into small pieces that will then be difficult to collect.
interesting
My first real sword. I still see it as my apocalypse sword even if I have other favorites now.
This is one that I'm personally a bit luke warm on. That blade type is a bit too chonky for foot combat imo & I am not a huge fan of lots of hand protection. Mostly b/c the martial systems I use are meant to work without it but also b/c they are cumbersome & thus not fun to wear or carry around. I do cut quite a lot (hence my shoulder acting up lately). I do find it helpful in making sure my attacks would actually cut as well as figuring out exactly what adjustments I need to make in order to get the most out of each swing.
I'm currently considering Windlass' version, or a new Ottoman Kilij they've recently come out with.
@@michaelrizzo5523 A very complex sword for mass production, it would be interesting to see it!
There are a few things I don’t really like about this sabre. Mainly the lack of enough distal taper for a 1796 style blade, which makes an already very forward balanced sabre feel needlessly sluggish. Also, the checkered backstrap, meant to encourage a sabre grip. The 1796 was designed and intended to be used with a hammer/handshake grip, not a sabre grip. I have the windlass 1796, and it’s honestly one of my favorite swords. The 8mm-1mm distal taper is amazing, and it hardly weighs over a pound and a half. For such a wide blade with a forward balance, it still feels very nimble. Ironically, an accurately reproduced 1796 makes a better foot-combat sword than the Thompson sabre. If they released a slightly tweaked version of this with a shorter and narrower blade (maybe without the blueing) I’d probably love it, it already looks very sleek stock, it just doesn’t feel good in the hand for me.
I was thinking I'd have to slim this down a lot but decided for now to leave it a bit heavier. It might also be interesting to cut one down into a cutlass.
Are you saving best for last?
Looking forward to your french saber review.
I'm somwaht interested in the Windlass version... I'm under the impression that windlass makes C.S. So, wondering if theyre basically the same... also hoping Windlass improved distal taper on their own version, perhpasn they're learning from the wild successes of the accurate 1796...??? Thoughts?
The new Windlass 1796 was influenced by their Matt Easton collaborations to get one with museum quality specs and the distal taper and weight seem right. CS still seems to be running with their old crowbar.
of the pirate cutlass, napolean saber, 1796, thompson saber, if you were to choose one for home defense in modern times with another one handed projectile weapon in your other hand (firearm, pepper gel, pepper ball pistol etc) what would you choose?
Obviously, a katana😂
I might actually go for one of the Apoc Tacticals. Or a Japanese style sword. I've been spending a lot of time lately with the Thompson to make it work for me. And I did just break down and order the new Matt Easton 1796 from Windlass (and a Falchion), so stay tuned. Intriguing scenario thought!
Katana are VERY good at close quarters and fast on the draw. I have some that work very well in one hand.
@@michaelrizzo5523 what source did you use for the windlass blades? Also, did you get the new Signature Series Sword of St. Michael falchion?
@@vanrickenstien I took advantage of the Museum Replicas Black Friday discount to order the 1796 and St Michael. They're pretty much the same company as Atlanta Cutlery, Windlass' primary US distributors.
Excellent review of a poorly executed sabre. The blade is not as wide as the 1796 sabre, which is widening towards the point, and the grooves are noticeably different. Distal tapering?... I also like the 1796 model for Indian troops (I have one in my collection) with the three-bar knuckle guard.
I am more and more tempted to try the new Windlass 1796
@michaelrizzo5523 Do it. Gotta be one of my favorite swords... sometimes, I play a game with myself ( usually while walking): if you could only keep ONE of your swords, which would it be... she always makes it on the short list...