Adam Savage Fixes a Squeaking Bed!
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Adam breaks out his welder to help a friend fix their squeaking bed frame. It's a quick build that demonstrates how small changes in the hardware used to assemble an everyday item can dramatically affect its stability and use. What's a simple fix you've made to a piece of furniture at home that significantly improved it?
Adam Savage Improves a Cat Exercise Wheel: • Adam Savage Improves a...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Norman Chan
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I think maybe the word you were looking for was peening rather than riveting.
I've never used a welder before. If I had to use a starter kit for small jobs such as in this video, what would you recommend for beginners like myself?
And now I will be laughing every single time someone does air quotes. Please extend my thanks to your wife for that.
"I am not *a* welder, I own a welder" is going to be my new motto
When I saw that second weld, where he forgot to turn on the gas, I thought “Hey, finally, someone on RUclips who’s a worse welder than me!” No such luck.
"I'm a Savage, Not a welder."
Do you know the classic "A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't." already?
Not me. I spent way to much time over this past year becoming a certified welder. definitely not as easy as people make it look.
@@THANATOSIXU It's like riding a bike. But really clean welding is like riding a unicycle.
Speaking as a certified welder. Adam you did an excellent job of explaining this. Please wear gloves to protect your hands while you weld.
from both the hot melty stuff and the UV given off neither is good for your skin. also stops you becoming a part of a circuit
2nd this - as retired welder
for just a couple seconds of arc time with solid wire your fine honestly. I will say it is funny that he took the time to put on a jacket and not the gloves though lol. My biggest criticism is for a butt joint like that you should focus on a work angle of 90 degrees to avoid spatter going everywhere and even penetration. Honestly no big deal for little 1" welds however.
as a fellow metal booger shooter like Adam, I agree.
I always use a welding glove on my left hand, as that's the hand I use to guide the tip of the wand. I've generally have mechanic's gloves on, so just use them for my right.
Just curious what's the best place to find welder settings for idiots?
45+ years experienced bed user here. Thanks for showing that process, glad to see someone else shows an understanding of how important proper bed use is. Reminds me of my great grand parents who used a bed too.
Under rated comment
The Bed: Is It Overrated Or Are You Just Using It Wrong?: A Video Essay
Im not sure I will ever grok the dichotomy of how on one hand Adam is so excited about his gauge blocks and chasing zeros and accuracy and fidelity, and on the other, he grabs something in one hand and a drill/grinder in the other and just freakin' wings it. Never change, Adam.
The people who designed the bed didn’t put any thought into durability so fixing that should only need minimal planning.
It's a great demonstration of quickly estimating things like the scale of the project, the level of acceptable mistakes or failures, and the cost of time spent preparing with it's diminishing returns. It took me about a year to understand that not every project I did was worth moving mountains ford, and sometimes doing what I thought was a "bad" job would get exactly the result that was called for.
It's talked about at some length in an older video or on the podcast, though I could not tell you which one. Essentially, one of the things that separate a novice from an expert is knowing when and where precision matters and where you can cut corners.
It comes with experience and insight. Knowing when to use a large sledgehammer vs a tiny jewellers hammer...
When you need accuracy, you need it. When you don't, don't worry about it.
For example, i am an electrical engineer, and i don't care if my meters are calibrated. Because i don't care if i am within a volt or 10 volts, i am doing mostly comparison measurements. Now, if i needed accuracy, then i'd be using better instruments than i do, and they'd have to be calibrated.
But i don't, so i don't worry about it.
The ability Adam has to weave a story into a build and still start off exactly where he left off before the tangent started has to be admired.
Agreed. As fellow adult with ADHD, this is impressive to witness.
@@Hexlattice Yep.. I get derailed by even the slightest tangent sometimes and it will be painful to get back on track afterwards, often leaving awkward moments. I wish I could just be normal lol
@@musachi5999 I bet it's a learned skill. Years of deliberate practice. Kinda like my uncharacteristic ability to register a person's name at the front end of a call to a business so I can thank them by name at the end of the call. I'm usually bad learning a new person's name, but my brain has ended up reserving a little bit of memory for just that occasion. Maybe he just registers what he was doing in that one spot so he can return to it. Like a mind palace..?
I was expecting him to come out with another old adage: "There's no such thing as a 'temporary' solution" (AKA "You can have it done correctly, cheaply or quickly; pick two")
Funny how this video is about a squeaky bed, and yet Adam's chair is soooo squeaky 🙂
I picked that up too, wonder when the chair is going to be “fixed”. What a beautiful video & story!
LOL, YEEEESSSSSSSSS
I was thinking about this too...
Damn that chair. I would have never noticed if he wasn't talking about squeaking.
YES! Maybe he will fix that next?!!! 😮😂
I love how Adam’s chair squeaks as he explains how he fixed a squeaking bed :D
i refuse to believe that wasnt an edit in post.
He went to "dinner" with his female "friend" Tracy, maybe he wants the bed quieter so the neighbors don't hear him with Tracy in the middle of the day.
Hi Adam, I had the same issue with squeaky bed. At first I thought that hardware was the source of sound, but it was not. The root cause of it were the wood parts sliding against each other where long side bar touches the front/back of bed. The solution was to put a piece of PET sheet between the two elements plus screwing well all the hardware parts to eliminate any clearance.
Or wax.
Had same thought. Source of squeek not likely the hardware.
It’s the hardware not necessarily because the hardware itself is squeaky, but because the wear is allowing everything to move. It’s likely correct that it’s the wood that’s squeaky as a result.
Sounds like a piece of felt would be great too. Like the ones to stick under chair feet.
@@Muscleduck I think that would wear out too fast. But I've also noticed that stuff works its way out from under the feet of furniture, so I think that's another reason it might not be a great solution.
30+ year welder - There is no real need to grind slots into the swaged bit of the bracket. Just welding over the area at the 120-150 amps the welder was pulling on 1/8" material would give at least 3/4 depth of penetration. Also, *DON'T* weld on anything galvanized, zinc, or other type of plated metal. Completely remove any type of plating from at least a 1/2" around the area to be welded. Inhaling, even small amounts of zinc oxide fumes can cause Metal Fume Fever. A very nasty condition.
It's pretty funny how despite Adam doing so many things in 35 years, at his core the only thing where he's truly a master is model-making. He never reads books or learns from those who know more.
@ssl3546 he doesn't claim to be an expert in anything he does other then model making/ practical effects. He's a bit of a Jack of all Trades but that also means hes a master of none of them. He's said in many of his Q&A videos that he's constantly learning and just sharing that process with us.
@@ssl3546big assumption unless you're good friends with him? Also, this video is shot infront of a book on his workbench called 'Engines'. Which he did a video on imploring others read it because he found it so compelling to learn more about engines from someone who was an expert. So I'm not sure how true your claim is.
@@Tobester_McDonkey
That, amd putting a couple of metal shims on the flat part of the bracket, inside the "hook" part.
A puff or two of graphite there, wouldn't hurt, either.
How do you know if you have Metal Fume Fever? I have been doing Mig welding on Gal Pipe and been feeling under the weather, but I have been in an semi open place (double garage workshop with the doors open)
Adam has a tig welder right behind him in the welding shots. On this job, I would have clamped the ears between two blocks of copper, with the main bar tight against them, and melted the swaged tabs into the main bar till the puddle had almost full penetration, no filler added. Oh yeah, and knocked the plating off with a wire wheel before welding.
My thoughts exactly. Just getting the heat in and melting the 3 pieces together at this scale would have been the perfect fix. I am certain the weld that ended up going down on the part was too cold and insufficient to actually bond. I am not a welder either, but it felt wrong lol
I thought the same thing
The zinc in the galvanized will fuck up the Tungsten in an instant. That's why we don't TIG galvanized in the first place.
@@wargamingsupernoob plus the fumes are toxic as hell. I sand that stuff off before I do anything else to it
With a TIG welder, you could weld the inside corners with little to no material addition that could interfere with fitment before weld-blending tabs on the back.
The rounded over edge is the top, and the sharp (burred) edge is the bottom.
Half way down the edge you will see it goes from smooth to rough. The rough edge is also the bottom.
(Former manufacturing engineer who studied this stuff.)
Love your work Adam!
The “punch” (the male half of the die) is generally on the flat side of the part; the fillet artefact is (usually) the result of the initial distortion of the part into the female half of the die - prior to the stresses shifting entirely to sheer.
exactly opposite.
the male "punch" is on top in the cutting side(the ram), and the female die is in the tool underneath(on the table).
@@TheSighphiguy I've Heard It Both Ways😎
punch on top is proper because you have to punch it down ... the die is the bottom that holds the cut pattern and any bottom details required ... it is the place things would die if there when punched ... the roundness will always happen on the punch as it flexes and allows the metal to deform when driven into the die .... you may hit it once BUT the hammer rebounds several times this is the flex and the reason why the punch side deforms not the die side
Nah, it’s all in the tooling. That’s definitely a countersink tool. We use them daily at work.
@@kaboom-zf2bl You see this same behavior on rotary knives and shears. The top side usually has a bend, the bottom side not. Now top and bottom sides can vary, depending on the machine geometry. But usually it's the forcing side that shows the initial deformation, the crisp side is the stationary one. In my experience. I'm sure there are people who have a differing experience.
Well this video is one of the reasons why I enjoy Adam’s presentations so much, you never know what road he will take us down. But I always learn something new. I have always said, “It is a bad day if you don’t learn something new”. Adam using this standard, when I watch your videos , it is another great day! Thanks so much.
CWI here, you did a good job explaining the basics in a straightforward manner that just about anyone who is unfamiliar with the subject will understand. I love that about you.
Without going back to each example (I'm on mobile), here's some more information on what you explained:
A weld which only fuses a portion of the joint as you depicted is called a partial joint penetration weld (PJP). PJP's can be made from one side (single sided) or both sides (double sided). Double sided PJP's are deceptively weak because the void in the middle (lack of fusion and/or penetration) provides a) no support, b) a place for the surrounding metal to flex, and c) sharp surface features which over time will likely be the start of a crack that could cause partial to complete failure of the joint.
Complete joint penetration welds (CJP) are welds with 100% fusion to all surrounding metal in the joint. CJP's can be made from one side with certain considerations but are double sided for your example. They are also preferred for most structural joint designs where fillet welds or other niche designs are impractical, but PJP's also have their place.
Adding bevels to any groove weld (a weld in which a void is designed to be completely filled) allows for deeper/easier penetration and usually greater strength with less heat input.
Welding through a hole in one part and into another part & filling it is simply called a plug weld. Elongating said hole into a slot is called a slot weld.
12:50 To your question: that type of rivet-like joining method is called "staking".
*stands next to vice and holds metal in bare had while grinding* adam please protect your hands, they make such wonderful things
Curtis from the Cutting Edge Engineering channel frequently shows filling up welds when repairing/rebuilding things like hydraulic cylinders
I love that channel have learnt so much from both guys
And Adam watches their videos. He even sent a care package over to them quite recently. Also, his name is Kurtis. :)
Our bed rails are bolted into the head and foot boards, two bolts at each corner. Over time it does loosen (probably from use and temperature changes through the seasons), but it’s easy enough to just get the Allen wrench and tighten it. (Yes, it’s an IKEA bed.)
All hail the furniture god 😂 I’ve lost count of how much of there stuff I’ve put together, for friends and family over the years.
If you have ever tried to put that IKEA syle of bed into a room where the space is almost but not quite the same size as the bed,the Adam style bed comes into its own.😀
I have the same bed frame style that I needed to tighten every few months. Added a bit of the blue loctite threadlocker on the bolts and haven’t had to tighten in 3 years
My bed frame is all structural steel, the rails are 2x3x1/4 angle and the frame of the headboard/footboard are 2x2x3/16 square tube there is a landing for the rail (2x3" angle welded on) that you bolt them together with two 1/4-20 bolts. I'm about 99% confident if there was a natural disaster that thing would be the last thing standing in my house. I basically copied the "Piper" bed design from Room & Board just made out of industrial materials and it looks like the store bought one has the same cheap slotting mechanism in the video... only downside is that mine with solid wood panels weighs a couple hundred pounds... never will have to worry about it falling apart or coming loose though.
I was going to say, I've never seen a bed put together with those metal things. All the beds I've ever owned were bolted. Maybe it's an American thing...?
I`m surprised Adam didn`t mill them out of a block of steel
That was what my assumption first was
just a quick fix XD
I`m surprised Adam didn`t mill the entire bed-frame out of a billet of steel
He is a better welder than machinist, and he SUCKS at welding.
Im not, Lifes too short to spend that long
I thinks it's a bit funny that your chair are squeaking, while you explain why the bed is squeaking ^^ I love it!
Watching him hold the thing in his hand and use the grinder reminds me of the Mythbusters saying "Safety Third"
I agree. That was an emergency room trip waiting to happen. His vice was right there. He seems to do this a lot. I recall a bad finger cut he got on his lathe years ago.
Everyone needs an Adam in their life.
Adam, I love the story of you and Julia with the air quotes. That is so fun and awesome!
I have a silly thing I said while riding BART from Pleasanton to SF with a friend. There are a couple places where the rails make an abrupt change in direction and I said "Jerks! This isn't third derivative continuous!"
Thanks so much, Adam!!
We love you!!
I would never click on a video with this title if it wasn’t Adam. He could make a video about how to change a toilet paper roll interesting.
I'm now imagining him eloquently talking extemporaneously and at length about why it's a crime against humanity to put the roll on the wrong way, with personal anecdotes.
@@cleverusername9369 Nailed it!
Retweet
Well, I could consider Simone Giertz, blondihacks, This Old Tony, Big Clive and Keith Fenner too.
Toilet paper hung in improper overhand fashion.
AVE is great. His grasp on the english language is spectacular!!!!
The fact that she came up with that on the spot is epic
What a treat it is to be invited into Adam's workshop almost every day. Nothing lasts forever, and this has to be something that makes every day that little bit sweeter, no matter your mood. Treasure it while it lasts. Thank you Sir.
Those parts look zinc plated, you want to be careful of fumes. Although it was just a few small parts and not a lot of welding
Absolutely
Thank you - I was going to make the same comment. I either use extra ventilation or acid strip the plating prior to welding.
Plus welding gloves wouldn't hurt -- quite the opposite.
You and your project videos are getting me through architecture school and building these models with more care. Thank you!
I love the shout out to AVE, made me smile. Also, the grinder use at the end shows me that you've been using grinders for a LONG long time :D Thanks for the in depth reasoning behind the squeaks!
Adam, these videos are my joy. These are the things I care about.
Adam, after some careful recollection to the process of some of the machine operators did at one place I worked, and then reading other comments confirmed my memories from +30 years ago,those tabs are “staked”.
It would be interesting to do a sheer strength and a pull test on them for load capacity.
That airquote joke was amazing - it requires quite a few jumps in logic in one second. Smart lady.
Yeah, that clip was punched complete. It’s 3 operations, one for the countersunk holes, one for the tab holes, and one for the perimeter. Look up Turret Punches. They’re pretty awesome. The other way is to make them on a Laser/punch combo. We have a Strippit Turret punch and a Trumpf laser Punch at work. They’re fun to watch run.
testing them out will be the best part
I feel like drilling a small hole half way at each end of the fillet (or even just the top) and spot welding there would have been more stable and less likely to compromise the bar.
The fact that you subtly shouted out AvE is just amazing to me.
Cutting edge engineering has weekly examples of great welding each week.
I was going to mention that CEE has some excellent examples of the depth thing, too. Glad I'm not the only fan here. ;-]
@@llearch No you aren't, Adam is also one.
@@blockbertus I was thinking "in the comments", specifically, but sure. What's not to like? ;-]
Nice explanation for the laymen. Just making a groove in the metal, you aren't getting overly complicated, but providing valuable knowledge.
This is great to know since I have all the tools to fix this problem if it ever comes up.
Oh god, seeing the bed hardware is giving me flashbacks to working in housekeeping at my college. We had to take apart and put together so... so many beds... omg
Longest introduction to a two minute weld job ever, and I LOVE IT!!
Adam fawning over his love, for his wife's hilarity, is the type of love I can only dream of either receiving or giving
Although he goes to dinner with other woman and he degrades his wife by calling her his "partner" a wife is so much more than a lousy "partner".
@craigsbully well, username checks out.
Because I own a Bulldog? I think I am his pet to tell the truth, and we are called Bullies? I guess it checks....@@StCreed
Hey Adam, always lovely to hear your wonderful voice! I'm a mechanical engineering student (emphasis on student). The joint you were wondering the name for at 12:57 is called an "interference fit" because, regardless of your tolerancing, the two surfaces will always interfere with each other, giving you a rather strong joint given that only friction and internal stress is holding it together (obviously not as good as a welded joint)
I am glad to see this that you are still able to weld somewhat in the cave. One thing I did not see on camera was turning the gas off...hopefully that was a step, or as on some of the other welding channels I watch, you might need a new tank next time :)
I have a lot of admiration for people who have the skill, willpower, and resources to just do what they want.
An alternative, Would have been to use your Tig setup (after cleaning off that plating breathing Zinc fumes is never fun) and Tig weld the tabs to the main bar, using the tabs themselves as your filling material. You'd basically be melting the two pieces together in a puddle and would probably see 1/3 to 1/2 penetration of that 1/8 steel plate if you run it hot enough. (Employed welder 10+ yrs experience, Stick/Mig)
Granted, and I will admit, this would not be the strongest bond, (getting that would be all but removing the tab portions of the inserts and plug-welding the entire slot). But not everyone who can do this, has a Tig setup, or even a Mig setup. But there are hundreds of ways to tackle this type of modification/repair, and seeing Adam's chosen method, shows just how creative some people can be and still get the same end result.
"I'm not a welder, I own a welder" and that is because I forgot to turn on the gas" are related quotes that apply to me as well. The difference is having the honest confidence to admit it on camera. I still have a hard time admitting my failures instead of embracing the fact that I make use of a lot of different skills and experience to tackle projects rather than settling for a commercially produced compromise solution. I enjoy the process even when the result isn't as awesome as I imagined!
The best part of the serif/sans-serif story was that it was told with a final snort-laugh. Could not have pleased me more. 😊
I love the air quotes joke, but what's even funnier was Adam saying he will never be that funny. That part made me laugh out loud!
I like that he didn't make the switch because of that joke, he's still using the "serif quotes".
just go comic sans and add a twist
A moment of silence for everyone in the audience who didn’t get that joke.
Yes, for the people who didn’t get the joke can one of you please explain. My friend commenting above me would really appreciate it. I’m to busy to explain.
@@NoCheeseNoMercy Times New Roman vs Arial. Serifs are the fancy extra bits on TNR, and Arial is a font without (sans) serifs, just straight lines.
I've been a full-time welder for 20 years now and some of my days still begin with grinding an inch of bubbly weld ;). I would have tried drilling the middle of that pressed tab as much as possible without weakening it and plug welded it I think. As for the main reason you want sufficient penetration (apart from having some material left if you grind the weld) would be to avoid cracks. Lack of penetration promote crack formation, and depending on the type of metal (like 5356 aluminium for example), the weld could literally completely crack apart AS you're making it. On mild steel it generally means a weaker weld. Fantastic job on finding the origin of the squeak and fixing it!
Every good grinder deserves a guard.
What about the bad ones?
As a degreed welding engineer, I can confirm Adam's explanation is correct. Cheers!
A hotter, slower weld will significantly increase your penetration (the depth to which you’re melting the parent metal). It should be perfectly possible to achieve a full penetration weld on that material without a significant weld-prep; (although keeping everything in tolerance is much more difficult in that case).
I will preface I'm not some experienced welder but I have watched my fair share of welding in-depth videos because it is an artform that interests me. Yes from what I've observed you need to create a pool of molten metal to achieve full penetration of the materials and either push or pull that pool from one side to the other in zig zag formation. There's a bunch of styles and methods one could apply to the seam as they see fit for the application. Hoonigan have done a great series on learning how to weld with Lincoln iirc and recommend anyone interested to check it out.
with or without squeeky beds, parent metals rarely get the chance for hotter slower welds until the later years, at which time everything has long been out of tolerance. significant weld-prep for full penetration is a luxury of the pre-child years. It's a wonder that parent metals can achieve multiple (off) springs.
@@RichardBuckman I needed this laugh, thank you, I appreciate you.
With that much heat and wire speed, that prep was wholly unnecessary to say the least lol
Surprised that only 1 of them came out distorted from how much heat was put into them, but definitely won't be going anywhere any time in any of our years 🫡
It depends on the welding process.
Im speaking of GMAW and MAG as that's my trade (boilermaker).
"More heat" isnt always going to give you the best penetration, and often can be detrimental of you dont account for it in wire speed and travel speeds.
More voltage (and thus more energy/heat) can actually reduce pennetration if you dont have sufficient wire feed. This happens because the extra voltage causes the wire to burn/melt sooner as it feeds out the contact tip when using a globular or spray arc transfer.
This increases the arc length (not tip stickout length, thats different).
Since the arc spreads out over a, well, arc , the energy you're putting into the parent metal also isnt as concetrated. This can cause less penetration into the root of the weld. Increasing wire speed to suit your additional voltage will shorten the arc length and push it harder into the root of the join.
Its a fine balance as you can give it too much wire for your voltage, which will result in less than optimal weld profile and eventually the toes of the weld will start to not fuse and overroll.
I only meant to leave a quick comment and i still have more to say😅
Sorry
This answers so many questions ive had about welding
I love that a joke told by your partner years ago still makes you snort with laughter.
If you are interested how metal parts are made, there are many good videos on YT from factory tours etc. As industrial designer I find it fascinating how the stamping machines work. We had to learn basics of the manufacturing from animations & cross-section engineering diagrams of basic machines - and it is f'ing amazing to think how someone came up with the machine... Take in spool of metal sheet and step by step punch holes, flanges, perfectly accurate bends etc. before punching the final piece off.
Engineers and machinists who make the blanks/stencils/whatever you want to call the sequenced machine parts are work of art no one gets to see, imho.
Gets even wilder with machines that make deep drawing parts where keeping material thickness to avoid tearing is closer to witchcraft.
Just thought you guys might be interested, and even Adam in his infinite curiosity to learn. Gives you new appreciation for simples mass produced piece of metal.
That's what I love about you @AdamSavage ! You can go from total Tazmanian Devil style enthusiasm about building a giant spaceship one week, to "I'm fixing a bed for a mate, because late stage capitalism sucks, and people should help each other" without any jarring or dissonance. It's all just parts of who you are.
Eh, I could do without the Marxist ideas, but to each his own.
Unrelated to welding, I make literally this bracket as a tool and die maker. Everything you said was right on! The holes and all are punched on a 3 step die!
Watch out, the carbon content of bed frames can cause welding failures. Bed frames look like regular old angle iron but they don’t weld correctly and you’ll notice certain things are riveted together. Well I think that has to do with the carbon Contant of the steel not readily taking welds.
It isn't the carbon content but the heat treating after that makes high carbon steel brittle when welded. If you anneal the product after welding it can return to it's original "strength" really it just mean the 2 metals will tear at the same amount of bending forces. There is also another issue when welding low carbon steel or Cast Iron that causes the same issue or being brittle but with out the fix of being able to be annealed since it doesn't have any carbon in it. Cast Iron is always going to be one piece or riveted together.
Well that answers a lot of friggin questions. First, why it's so bloody hard to drill into them. And also, why it was so difficult to weld.
I will say that so far my sandblasting cabinet and my flat bed lawn cart (which has been abused to hell) have made it about 4 years without failing. Both made from discarded bed frames. Probably had over 600 pounds of tree trunk on there more than once.
I'm going to chalk it up to beginners luck/ignorance/slowness. The lawn cart was my first welding project ever, I used a $99 flux core pos and I probably annealed it simply by putting so much heat into the whole thing because I didn't know what I was doing and spent forever on each weld. Not to mention I probably had the heat and feed on 11.
Was on the lookout for some frames for a new project, now I think I'll just find some actual welding steel.
I love my life as a nerd. Thank you Adam!!!✌️🤍
I actually have a story I think is relevant here. I recently bought a cheap Harbor Freight welder to weld some things which I had that needed welding. Included in that list was my Ikea bed frame center rail. The center rail was this rolled sheet metal that had two parts that fit together nicely. And the center of that rail was VERY strong! It was TWO layers of rolled sheet metal bent into a shape which nested within the other piece! VERY strong! Beyond that, you had just one piece of steel which was strong enough given it's shape. But beyond THAT, it tapered down to just 1 flat layer of metal without ANY bends which would have added any structural rigidity to the piece! This is where my center rail FAILED! This is an obvious weak spot in EVERY Ikea center rail! I hammered my rail into the shape I wanted, found a piece of strong metal to weld to this weak spot, and I reinforced this spot by welding to the new metal. So I repaired where my original bed frame tore. But my welding also heated the existing center rail which I believe strengthened it by tempering the metal! EVERYONE with one of these Ikea center rail bed frames should try this! Even if you don't have a welder, you should blast the ends of your bed rail with a blow torch or whatever to heat treat this weak point! (Don't forget to remove the plastic parts from the area first!)
This conversation was riveting in both the literal and descriptive way
Hahahaha I did not realise how much I would crack up about the air quote joke. 🤣 Thank you Adam, you made my day 😊
While I don’t doubt Adam in the lightest, I’d like to hear back if this 100% resolved the issue. Just out of curiosity
Personally I would have used a TiG welder on that or a lower feed rate to get some heat in the parts first, before laying down material. It always makes the best bond, when the same metal can melt together first and then using a filler add to relief cuts or voids. These type of jobs are EXACTLY what keep me from finishing big projects haha. I love fixing little stuff like that. Improving and upgrading existing but poorly engineered things.
Eventually, Adam is going to release a video about watching paint dry. 😉
And we will all watch it. And enjoy it.
Check his video list... did one about that a couple years ago, but didn't literally WATCH paint drying, just seemed like it!
And we would come back for part 2 “the second coat”.
@@OfficerShrek and we will all watch it again, and enjoy that just as much if not more!
I’d watch
I believe the process which those tabs are fixed into the plates is called "staking", where metals are mechanically deformed to have an interference fit.
We do a similar thing in firearms manufacturing with a hammer and punch.
I fixed my bed from squeaking. I got married
I would also recommend grinding off the galvanized coating. That will make you sick to the gills, and cause porosity. That connection of the tabs to the pill shaped pieces of metal, is more so staked.
I am also not a welder who owns a welder.... and I find it hillarious that you forgot to turn the gas on. Last week I did the exact same thing on a junk chair I pulled out of the trash. Only I thought, "That'll be good enough." I was so wrong.
I was inspired to try again by this video.... it isn't working out well.
Adam Savage makes everything interesting
Is it ironic that his chair is squeaking?
I thought that too.
Absolutely lol!
I came looking for this comment.
oh the lights are worse!
As someone who does have "the institutional knowledge" about stamping, the rounded edge comes from the metal's surface moving before it shears. Meaning that dependent on the direction of movement, the slug and the form will have the rounds on opposite sides! Meaning that plate with the holes was likely a single stage where the holes and the body were stamped simultaneously.
Your description of a bed base that you say is how almost every bed in the world, does not match any bed I have ever known. Maybe it is just an American thing that beds are made that way.
It's an easy and low cost way. Most cheaper bed frames are made like that, some expensive ones that are made cheap.
Yeah, I've never seen this kind of bed hardware, but the four parts of a bed structure is true in Brazil.
yeah, same here. Our beds in Europe don't match his description at all. I wonder how they are made in US now...
I love the random lego on the welding table.
My bed doesn't squeek, it is a massively over engineered 2x4 and plywood monster I built probably capable of supporting several tons :-).
Congratulations
But does it support your wife?
@@gunner4544 Oh no you didn't 🤣🤣
I work in a factory that makes packaging machines and adding automation to some of the machines that don't already have it. What I do is general labor but they have me mainly focused on operating and making programs for our CNC laser cutting machine. Originally I was a shear operator that sent things down to a turret punch. Your perception on which side the punch came down on to punch out the part was correct. The rounded side is basically the top of the part. Where the flat side is basically the bottom where it is punched out from the material. Those turret punches sound like a war is going on in the shop.
............................................................................................. *Quality > Quantity*
I think the attachment of the metal ear to the flat is called staking. Swaging or swedgeing could also describe it, but I thing the staking definition works better for this instance.
Seconded. I'd also classify that as staking.
I would be more interested in a wooden squeaky floor.
I remember hearing that replacing the nails that usually hold old floorboards in with screws stops the squeaking.
The squeaking being caused by nails that work loose over time and the wood rubbing against them
To sleep on, or just in general?
If I remember correctly the rounded side of the stamped plate is the side face down on the punch die(flat side is where the force is applied) because the metal would stretch slightly on unsupported face of the piece but only around the edges before it starts to shear the metal and stretching stops.
19:10 Adam I respect your years of experience, but that's insane to me how you used the grinder there. It sure looked like your thumb was millimeters away from getting sliced
Yeah, removing the guard is a bad habit, especially since here it wouldn't be a hindrance.
Great video Adam! I've never understood why people throw away their old (basic) bed frames just to buy new ones. The older the frames are, the heavier the metal and the brackets were welded. I have been repurposing an old frame for decades (seriously heavy metal) and the only change I made was installing wider rollers at the corners.
Hi guys. I don’t mean to be pedantic but there are some mistakes in this one.
First: You dont need to remove the corners on a piece that small, evetything you said true, except it doesn't become an issue until you're up in around 1/4" thickness.
Second: The piece you where working in is hardened steel and the heat from the weld has removed the hardening, so there is a good chance it's going to bend or break where you have welded.
Third: Never weld in galvanized steel, it is toxic as H€LL, and the youtube police will arrest you!
I really love the chanel and I dont intend to poop on our party, but it had to be said
Those pieces are not hardened. They're not even high-carbon steel. They're zinc alloy hardware stampings, pieced together with a peened connection. Very common.
@@sundaynightdrunk Zinc poisoning is no joke. I know people who have had to go to the hospital and be put on a ventilator because of zinc poisoning.
@@sundaynightdrunkThank-you for saying what I was thinking
3x3 custom Tamar has a great video on how to install this kind of hardware to ensure that it is very tight and secure. You have to inset it into the wood to make sure that it's not proud of the surface.
For safety you should always wear thick gloves when welding, especially when you have influence and a lot of people watching your channel, because there is a moral imperative to set a good example.
The un-guarded angle grinder running up against his belly is also very bad practice.
@@Booka3141also cutting on the wrong side of the wheel, so if it catches it throws the grinder towards him.
Fun fact, the weld material created from filler material and base material is called the Admixture, which is a composition borrowed from both. The definition can probably be stretched to include both pieces of metal joined without filler material.
It might be due to certain activities 😂😂
The "riveting" is called "staking". One reason to stake it rather than weld is that you don't mess up the galvanizing surface. You can stake two galvanized parts together, and they are still mostly galvanized.
The rounded edge of the stamping is downwards, away from the punch and that stamped the bits out of the sheet and through the die.
This was the hard way to do it. The easy way would have been to use the TIG to run over the back joint, using the metal of the "rivet" to weld them together. No need to add metal with the MIG
Couldn't agree more from the get go I said why not use a Tig, then I thought maybe he doesn't have a Tig, then you clearly see the Tig sitting right next to the MiG. Little bit of clean up get off the galvanizing Tig the rivet melting rivet into parent material done. Would have looked better, been just as strong no massive globs to grind down and wouldn't of blown out the edge like he did on one of the pieces
It should be noted that those are a new style of bed hook. The older style were completely flat, and had to be inset into a thin mortise in the headboard/footboard and then pegged through the frame to keep in place. That style was really solid, and didn't usually squeak over time. You can still get them. I recently I re-built my great-grandparent's old bed to give to my son (they died in the 80's and I've had pieces of that old bed in storage ever since), and I used the older style. It was a challenge to mortise the slots, but satisfying not to use those newer junk bed hooks.
Holding those pieces as Adam grinds an inch from his fingers is pretty unnerving knowing what those tools can do to a body.
I see you have no experience with regularly using power tools on a daily basis
It's kind of like saying I can't believe he can drive to the store without his GPS experience and knowledge teaches you how the tool is going to affect the part you're holding you just have to think about it for half a second
I don't use angle grinders often and they scare the shit out of me. But every tool is like that as most materials are harder, tougher, or similar to muscle. Watch a chef rapidly slice an onion or a butcher break down primal sections of beef and the speed looks insanely dangerous. I used to work with carpenters that would do stuff daily with a circular saw that made my sphincter tighten. When doing anything inherently dangerous, a novice is not focused or doesn't realise the consequences. This is not Adams first time using an angle grinder.
That said, I usually saw accidents happen (even by experienced people) at the end of the work day when someone was rushing something inherently dangerous so they could clock out.
@@SaiakuNaSenshu I see you have no experience using your brain on a daily basis.
I like how Lucy sees Adam Savage's Tested as her personal handy man. Go Lucy!
So glad to see you. Its like back in 2006 on "discovery". I feel comfy
I am also a certified welder, and you are speaking factual information. Very critical info.
What an amazing wealth of knowledge conveyed over such a simple task! Thank you, sir, that was excellent.
Adam, I'm like you. I tinker and learn just enough to do what I'm doing. Folks like us are proof that a person need not be highly skilled at everything, poorly skilled at a lot of things gets by just fine. We make a fine career out of just good enough skill to get it done.