First video of somebody else using an optical comparator on RUclips. I used to use one daily at work and it does make measuring profiles easier. Here’s a tip you may already know. A curtain rod a a curtain around the sides of the screen to block out the light and the lights out when using it will help to make it easier to see the light in the comp screen. Love watching you do your tinkering around your shop. Brings back so many memories from my work days and makes me miss the machines and tooling. I’m always looking forward to the next project.
I can't even imagine the time and extra EFFORT that goes into your channel. Not to mention the sacrifice to your home life so that we can learn and enjoy from your work. Thank you very much as you are one of my very favorites and I so look forward to my weekend to relax and watch. Now, let's get back on that horizontal bandsaw!!!!! You're going to love that once its operational, lol!!!!!!!
Hey my friend, This kind of reminds me about the types of things Joe Pie makes. Anytime we can add home made tooling to the drawer is like money in the bank eh. As far as changes to the process I have none aside from having to part that bit off the blank. The most important part is how much run out in the final project and there is none as you have shown us. It's always a pleasure to see you our friend !
Only tip I can share, when you have the part in the lathe, it would be quick and easy to use the Diamond shaped cutter to scribe a line on the front of the collet. Then use that line as a visual aid in slitter height. I wish I had one of those fancy tailstock centers! How handy!
Coffee with Steve on Saturday AND Sunday morning, life is good. Thanks for taking us along. Yes viewers, lets all try to get Steve to 100K subscribers. It would be great to see that silver button on his wall.
Thanks buddy, I am waiting on the magic algorithm to push one of my videos out to people that are not aware of the channel. Without my viewers sharing the videos I am at the mercy of YT.
I try to put a reply or comment in each of your videos to help with the algorithms, I’m not sure some of my comments make a lot of sense because I’m not a machinist but I’m trying. Lol
Steve I enjoyed watching you make a little bitty part on two big machines. I have a big Hendey like yours and a Bridgeport in my farm shop. The lathe is not set up after three years of thinking about it. This vid gives me inspiration to “get ‘er done”. My Bridgeport is dialed in pretty well. I have a big old van Norman mill and a small Vernon shaper too. I must say I’m not all that thrilled the “let’s fix this old truck” vids. I appreciated watching your shop building overhaul. Have fun.
I spend the majority of my time watching videos like this so I can figure out the best methodology for making a tool or a part. I’m not a machinist, nor am I an engineer…I am a hobbyist, a self proclaimed expert of many trades and a master of none 😎
Hey Steve, if you learn from your mistakes then I’m set to become a master. I really enjoyed that, yes you could buy one but it’s the practice and satisfaction of making your own that I enjoy. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
If there’s something that says “engineering” louder than “spent 2 hours of machine time making a $5 part” i don’t know what it is. Thanks for all your videos!
Hi Steve! Nice to see you on Sunday! that part you made turned out pretty cool! also I love that slitting Saw! take care love to Elizabeth and you of course!
Steve, I am a retired solider who recently decided (out of the blue) to take up machining as a hobby. Thanks to folks like you, I’m now able to confidently work with 4041 steel, brass, aluminum and stainless - all that on a small 7x14 mini lathe. I am eternally grateful to you and those like you that take the time to show tight, detailed shots. I’ve learned a ton from observing how you and others set up your work, the angle you choose for turning, and much, much more. So from a beginner - what would I do differently? Just what you said - turn it down from the end of the stock. My box of shame (failed attempts at things) is big enough to routinely remind me to double check everything always. It’s a bit slower, but I make fewer mistakes. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and passion!
All my friends think I am nuts for spending hours to make a tool that I could have delivered to my house tomorrow for less than 10 bucks. love your channel Steve!
I spotted the mistake starting from the wrong end in the lathe, and the off-centre error with the slitting saw was just an arithmetic thing. We've all done this sort of thing more than once! I think this was an excellent project and can't suggest anything different that I would have done. Great demonstration of the uses of the optical comparator, really nice piece of kit. As ever, well done, and especially for pointing out the mistakes, really useful (and honest). Thanks for the video Steve!
Turned out great Steve. Like you said, for home use and everything and since it's only being used in a die grinder, heat treating isn't necessary but you can always do it down the line at some point if you get more accustomed to heat treating and it will certainly make it more durable. It's such a tiny part anyway that it should be a rather quick heat treating job.
The only thing I would add, as far as the collet. Normally with this type of collet they put a larger bore from the back end part way thru. to make a thinner wall up into the slits. So the collet can flex a little easer. This allows the more give so both tapers can make more contact with their respective mating tapers.
Can't argue with the results. Machined basically by eye then zero runout on the tool, knocked it out of the park, AFAIC. I like the 3 segments vs 4 like some. Your Doall mill is a beautiful beast. One of these days you might investigate the motor bearings for the spindle. Your mics pick up on one or two singing on the videos. Maybe you already know.
I enjoy watching you in the workshop your doing the same kind of things I used to be able to do so please keep doing it for as long as you can, I find myself trying to reach into the screen to hold things and turn the wheels of the lathe and milling machine, I can still smell the old workshop aroma
Nice job These collets look a lot like the ones on a Dremel, just a little bigger. Dremel collets have 4 slits though, which has the benefit that you can do two at once if your slitting saw is big enough. Otherwise I would tend to use a smaller saw to get the slits as long as possible without cutting into the opposite wall of the hole. You coult also have drilled a wider hole on the backside of the collet to give the jaws a little more spring, since the smaller hole diameter leaves the jaws thicker and therefore stiffer.
I have stopped trying to analyse why someone like me with no engineering background, gets so engrossed in vids like this and just enjoy them. Thanks for posting.
I can tell you why. I believe It's because we are programed to make tools that make your life easier. Just like monkeys use sticks to get ants from holes. It's what we do. In the past A good tool could make the difference between the survival of us and our loved ones . That's my thoughts anyway a d It's satisfying to see them be made.😄
Thank you Steve, for spending the time it takes to make the videos. Beautiful collet, even though it didn't turn out "symmetric". It is hand-made, and it fits...perfect. If something in the process HAD to change, I wouldn't have turned down the diameter too much in the beginning. Rather keeping as much material as possible for as long as possible. Finishing the collet from front to back might help, but then you wouldn't have something to lay out the steps on. A double edges sword either way. I enjoyed watching the way you chose to do it anyway. And again, thank you for spending the time making these videos for all to watch.
Hi Steve & love your chanel! Two tips that might be helpful. To make the collets more flexable and grip better, try drilling the collet on the back side say 1/4" diameter, or the same diameter as the factory collet and leave at least 2x the final collet size in this case 1/8" x 2 = 1 /4 " long reamed portion. It would have made the slitting easier to boot. A good way to get the slitting saw lined up is chuck up a test piece or the piece you used before turning it all up especially if it is really long, and place it in your fixture and make offsets as you did or line it up by eye. Take a shallow trial cut on the very end of the piece then turn the part 180 and try again and make adjustments until the cutter is on center. It's a great way to line up gear cutters and almost any circular cutter using a spin type of indexer. Cheers and TFS. Chuck
Good idea on oversizing the back side. Slotting a test piece is my goto as I have screw the centerline too many times. One pass slot is trick I learned from Lipton.
I have made collets like this. The 1/4 back drill to the slits will allow easier flex and better grip. 4 slits are better and allow full depth cuts with your slitting saw.
I have always loved making things, and watching you fix screw ups and come up with alternate ways of achieving a worktable solution to a successful outcome is very much like my own shop experience. Thanks!
Great job. Making collets that run true is a good test of skill. The only thing I can mention is that neither drills or reamers locate holes precisely. So in between the drilling and reaming, a pass with a micro boring bar, would make sure the center hole is true to the spindle. Your final runout test shows this wasn't really required for this job. Heat treating without any extra stock allowance to grind would likely make a mess of it, so I wouldn't. And as you said, not really needed for how it will be used.
Great Video - Over the years lost so many of those, yet never thought about machining one. In a way, a small part is harder to machine than something larger, makes you respect mass production and how we get accustomed to grabbing parts off a shelf. Nice to see the mill in action!
Fantastic video Steve keep them coming , very much appreciate the time and effort you put in. Best wishes to you and family,from across the pond in Cornwall uk
Steve, other than starting nearer the end of the stock as you already mentioned when doing the lathe work, I would have run the slitting saw deeper until it was very near the far side of the bore. This would "square up" the cut at the base of the slot a little, and I'm sure has no practical value, but it's just something I thought when you were running it in on the first cut. And thank you for continuing to make these videos.
Sunday, Steve and Grits! Yeppie!! Look forward to you every week. You always teach me something, may be totally unrelated to the subject of the video but I am better in some way. Thanks for taking the time to share. God Bless you and your family.
I have collets for a dremel that are Aluminum? and steel ones too- My Foredom tool motor with flex shaft has a regular keyed chuck? I have some dental flex shaft tools (because my wife is a Dentist) that have quick-release collets, but only one size tool shank that I use for Plastic Model building-
The central controls on the mill are the biggest advantage over a mill like the Bridgeport. The Rambaudi at my shop has the central controls. I only use the Bridgeport when the Rambaudi isn't up to the task.
Thanks for the videos! As an alternative to the slitting saw for the grooves you could try to mill them with a high speed air spindle/die grinder and small mill in the support of the lathe. I tried it once and although I was sure the 1mm mill would break on contact it surprisingly cut like a knife through butter. This was also for a small collet .
Mr Steve, nice job and I wouldn't heat treat it, you won't need it. The only thing different I would do is make 3 or 4 of the collets. And go back and make several of the 1/4" collet so I have several on hand. Again great job.
Thanks for the video. I have made little odds and ends like this from a pre-hardened material. Viscount44, Fatigue-proof, or even 4140 pre-hard. They all machine nicely.
When I saw three slits I wondered what the best method for cutting them would be. Aside from a slitting saw (the way you did it) I couldn't think of anything. That was a nice job and excellent video. Thanks.
when you first stepped up to the cutter grinder at @4:20 I thought you were going to grind the OD between centers! that's probably a litter overkill for this project though! cheers!
I think that the only thing I would have done different is the order of operations to keep that part rigid as possible until the end. I would face it, and get that front taper in first, center drill slightly wider than the hole. then drill and ream the hole to depth . to accept the center again. Then turn the the ODs to size and then the back taper. Doing it this way would ensure that the hole is concentric to the OD, because you just have a more rigid setup through most of the operations.. Yours turned out fine anyway. That's probably just the way I would have done it. As far as the slitting saw goes I might have tried to center it by touching off on the bottom and the top and finding the center between those 2 dimensions, but honestly it's such a small part and a large slitting saw that there is a lot of flex to contend with in that setup. You did good! I enjoy getting two videos from you on the weekend.
As far as the collet goes, the only change I would have made is one you already know about which is to start at the end of the material instead of the middle. On a cautionary note, the die grinder you are using has one fatal flaw that you should be aware of. Due to the fact that the body is entirely made out of plastic, pay particular attention to the metal encased area. The shaft bearings are located inside that metal cone encased in plastic. When those bearings get a little wear on them they heat up good enough to melt the plastic which destroys the grinder outside shell. When using the grinder give that cone a touch for heat every five minutes or so and if it feels hot shut it down and let it cool for a bit. As a welder and fitter I have used those grinders for years since they were company supplied and about once a month someone would cook one beyond repair. New bearings are readily available and the replacement time is about 20 minutes.
Ive got 3 of the Makitas just like this one and they run hot as hell in the first place and Scooter nailed it 100%. Look for a Foredom grinder along with a good flex shaft and foot pedel. Hang it from a hanger over your bench and never look at another Dremel ever again. Ive got several Foredoms and the only time Ill dig out a Dremel is for something outside.
@@GunnerAsch1 Every new motorized tool I get are taken apart and a liberal amount of "0" grade synthetic grease into the cleaned out gear and bearing boxes applied. 120 volt or battery, makes no difference. Brushes last longer, as do bearings. Along with the triggers as the whole tool runs much cooler. If you can't get "O" grade grease #1 is fine. Manufacturers do that on purpose as if they don't wear out parts they want to sell parts and better yet a new grinder or drill or. give that a try. Just don't overpack the system as bearings and gears need some breathing room eh.
I prefer 4140/4150 pre-hardened stock. It machines so nice, gives great finishes with carbide tooling, and runs about 28/32 Rc hardness. It makes for super tools.
That offset might actually be working to your advantage, but making the shank flex slightly, helping the collet to move into alignment in the socket as you tighten it up. Think of it as an unintended alignment feature, plus as they relax they will stop the shaft from freezing onto the collet.
From watching many of your videos, I figured out the slits. You didn't take half the thickness of the saw as well on the measurement. Not a critique as I wouldn't have that info without your information sharing! Looks like it works just fine as is and thanks for another fantastic and instructional video!
No suggestions or criticisms Steve ,just an enjoyable video on an over kill big lathe for a small part. Whilst I'm sure the little table top lathe could've done the job ,I 'm just envious as I don't have room for a good old Colchester ( in Uk , Clausing over there) ,but however ,a lathe is a lathe , even my humble Boxford ( (uk version of small South bend ) . Thanks for taking the time to make the video .
Again loving that grinder of yours! I would have done it the other way shank towards the tail stock head toward the chuck, part it off. Then put the shank in a collet and do the angles with the compound. Would have put four slots(2 cuts). Then you wouldn’t have the radius in the slot.
Your marching process was good. Maybe I would have used D2. Leave the collet on main bar stock. Heat treat. Clean and polish, then use a thin friction grinding disk and cut it from the main bar stock.
Not being a machinist but watching you do what you do best is the main reason I always watch. I enjoy your wisdom, your explanations, just watching you turn a piece of steel into something useful, or adding a coolant line to your band saw as an example. Thanks so much for sharing everything you do. You're not afraid of doing something you have not done before, and thinking outside the box to get it done. Saturday and Sunday this week, could not ask far anything more. Thank you, n take care. Until next time, stay safe.
I have made a very few collets and I did it just like you did except for different machines and I had only a spin indexer to hold the part to slit it. Great video!
Cooler than LL Cool J in the 90’s 😂 love it. As far as the collet, which turned out great, I think I’d have grabbed the stock in a Jacobs rubberflex collet, used the compound for the angles, and cut them with just a little pointed cutter rather than a form tool. Cut the nose angle, slide the stock out of the collet a little, maybe change to a different cutter and cut the back angle, slide the stock out a little and cut the remaining od of the collet body, then drill. I often use this method of kind of extruding the part out of a jacobs collet since it’s a more concentric easily repeatable hold than a three jaw. Not at all saying my take is better, and I don’t have a comparator so mine probably would’ve been worse anyway 😅
Nice little job you made🤩, only difference that I like to do that kind job, is to cut inside to out. I know that was little flimsy setup for that, but when started little more center it doesn't chatter. When splitting threaded pipe all the burrs are outside and don't have to hustle inside no more. Keep on rocking in the shop I like your style very much👊👊
Hint: for a better control on finished reamed hole size, leave the final reamer only taking no more than .002" . Reamers taking more than that have a tendency to cut oversized holes.
Enjoy your videos, try make a collet to use dental drills on your fordom. They are are carbide and come in various shapes and sizes. Great for small broken taps, drills bits. Shaft size is strange 1.5 - 2.5mm but the carbide balls and cones work great. The are pretty cheap and various size and shapes.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
That's the beauty of having old machines because you can still keep them going as long as the part that is broken is not too seriously broken.
Now that's a very nice machine! That grinder is a behemoth.
The hot sauce just arrived and it is unique and tastes great. Let your friend know that his spot on your channel worked. I will probably buy again.
First video of somebody else using an optical comparator on RUclips. I used to use one daily at work and it does make measuring profiles easier. Here’s a tip you may already know. A curtain rod a a curtain around the sides of the screen to block out the light and the lights out when using it will help to make it easier to see the light in the comp screen. Love watching you do your tinkering around your shop. Brings back so many memories from my work days and makes me miss the machines and tooling. I’m always looking forward to the next project.
I can't even imagine the time and extra EFFORT that goes into your channel. Not to mention the sacrifice to your home life so that we can learn and enjoy from your work. Thank you very much as you are one of my very favorites and I so look forward to my weekend to relax and watch. Now, let's get back on that horizontal bandsaw!!!!! You're going to love that once its operational, lol!!!!!!!
Hey my friend, This kind of reminds me about the types of things Joe Pie makes. Anytime we can add home made tooling to the drawer is like money in the bank eh. As far as changes to the process I have none aside from having to part that bit off the blank. The most important part is how much run out in the final project and there is none as you have shown us. It's always a pleasure to see you our friend !
Only tip I can share, when you have the part in the lathe, it would be quick and easy to use the Diamond shaped cutter to scribe a line on the front of the collet. Then use that line as a visual aid in slitter height. I wish I had one of those fancy tailstock centers! How handy!
Cool quick project, thx for showing
Nice. You don't need to justify yourself or ask for feedback. Most of us are here to learn from you.
Coffee with Steve on Saturday AND Sunday morning, life is good. Thanks for taking us along. Yes viewers, lets all try to get Steve to 100K subscribers. It would be great to see that silver button on his wall.
Agree 100%
Thanks buddy, I am waiting on the magic algorithm to push one of my videos out to people that are not aware of the channel. Without my viewers sharing the videos I am at the mercy of YT.
I try to put a reply or comment in each of your videos to help with the algorithms, I’m not sure some of my comments make a lot of sense because I’m not a machinist but I’m trying. Lol
@@Hoaxer51 Well, this comment of yours made sense so thank you for the support 👊👍
Steve I enjoyed watching you make a little bitty part on two big machines. I have a big Hendey like yours and a Bridgeport in my farm shop. The lathe is not set up after three years of thinking about it. This vid gives me inspiration to “get ‘er done”. My Bridgeport is dialed in pretty well. I have a big old van Norman mill and a small Vernon shaper too. I must say I’m not all that thrilled the “let’s fix this old truck” vids. I appreciated watching your shop building overhaul. Have fun.
Great content Steve! Another variable for the three slots not lining up is .052/2 = .026, not .0255. At 22:14 Thanks for the great videos!
I spend the majority of my time watching videos like this so I can figure out the best methodology for making a tool or a part. I’m not a machinist, nor am I an engineer…I am a hobbyist, a self proclaimed expert of many trades and a master of none 😎
Hey Steve, if you learn from your mistakes then I’m set to become a master. I really enjoyed that, yes you could buy one but it’s the practice and satisfaction of making your own that I enjoy. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Reaching around that spinning saw blade- NI-I-I-ICE!
Thanks😎
If there’s something that says “engineering” louder than “spent 2 hours of machine time making a $5 part” i don’t know what it is. Thanks for all your videos!
I wouldn’t change a thing. I even like the slits the way you did it. A good thing! Thanks USN RET
Hi Steve! Nice to see you on Sunday! that part you made turned out pretty cool! also I love that slitting Saw! take care love to Elizabeth and you of course!
Looks like your work on making the 1/8" collet was a win and I enjoyed watching you go threw the steps on making it . Great job 👏.
Steve, I am a retired solider who recently decided (out of the blue) to take up machining as a hobby. Thanks to folks like you, I’m now able to confidently work with 4041 steel, brass, aluminum and stainless - all that on a small 7x14 mini lathe. I am eternally grateful to you and those like you that take the time to show tight, detailed shots. I’ve learned a ton from observing how you and others set up your work, the angle you choose for turning, and much, much more. So from a beginner - what would I do differently? Just what you said - turn it down from the end of the stock. My box of shame (failed attempts at things) is big enough to routinely remind me to double check everything always. It’s a bit slower, but I make fewer mistakes. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and passion!
All my friends think I am nuts for spending hours to make a tool that I could have delivered to my house tomorrow for less than 10 bucks. love your channel Steve!
I spotted the mistake starting from the wrong end in the lathe, and the off-centre error with the slitting saw was just an arithmetic thing. We've all done this sort of thing more than once! I think this was an excellent project and can't suggest anything different that I would have done. Great demonstration of the uses of the optical comparator, really nice piece of kit. As ever, well done, and especially for pointing out the mistakes, really useful (and honest). Thanks for the video Steve!
Thanks Steve, another good video. I haven't missed a one.
Really liked that video. Next time I need a collet like that I'll make one.
Hi Steve, this is what we want to see : no improbable thinks like cnc, no stupid commercials, only works and ingenuity....thanks for sharing.
Turned out great Steve. Like you said, for home use and everything and since it's only being used in a die grinder, heat treating isn't necessary but you can always do it down the line at some point if you get more accustomed to heat treating and it will certainly make it more durable.
It's such a tiny part anyway that it should be a rather quick heat treating job.
I'd just beg my wife to buy me one... talking about effort and stress. LOL Great work on the collet and the camera work, Steve!
The only thing I would add, as far as the collet. Normally with this type of collet they put a larger bore from the back end part way thru. to make a thinner wall up into the slits. So the collet can flex a little easer. This allows the more give so both tapers can make more contact with their respective mating tapers.
Ooo, another two for two videos this weekend! You are spoiling us!
Keep it going as you are never boring because you keep it up to date and varied
I imagine working on super tiny parts like this project are much harder than working on some 3000lb piece of industrial equipment.
Thx for posting
I would have machined it back to back mirrored so cutting it in two at the end could have had 2 parts😊
I would not have noticed the slits off center. Thanks for sharing, and all that you do for us. 😎👍🏻
Can't argue with the results. Machined basically by eye then zero runout on the tool, knocked it out of the park, AFAIC. I like the 3 segments vs 4 like some.
Your Doall mill is a beautiful beast. One of these days you might investigate the motor bearings for the spindle. Your mics pick up on one or two singing on the videos. Maybe you already know.
American made...no wonder it doesn't have runout!
Great Job!
Keep em coming!!!!
I enjoy watching you in the workshop your doing the same kind of things I used to be able to do so please keep doing it for as long as you can, I find myself trying to reach into the screen to hold things and turn the wheels of the lathe and milling machine, I can still smell the old workshop aroma
Do you blow on the screen when Steve puts dykem on parts? I can't help myself, it's a reflex.
Nice job
These collets look a lot like the ones on a Dremel, just a little bigger. Dremel collets have 4 slits though, which has the benefit that you can do two at once if your slitting saw is big enough. Otherwise I would tend to use a smaller saw to get the slits as long as possible without cutting into the opposite wall of the hole. You coult also have drilled a wider hole on the backside of the collet to give the jaws a little more spring, since the smaller hole diameter leaves the jaws thicker and therefore stiffer.
I have stopped trying to analyse why someone like me with no engineering background, gets so engrossed in vids like this and just enjoy them. Thanks for posting.
I can tell you why. I believe It's because we are programed to make tools that make your life easier. Just like monkeys use sticks to get ants from holes. It's what we do. In the past A good tool could make the difference between the survival of us and our loved ones . That's my thoughts anyway a d It's satisfying to see them be made.😄
@@SteveSummers Oh I don't watch any old monkey winkling out insects, only the most skillful and dexterous ones.🐒👍
He sure is a pleasure to visit eh.
Common sense goes a long way
Thank you Steve, for spending the time it takes to make the videos. Beautiful collet, even though it didn't turn out "symmetric". It is hand-made, and it fits...perfect.
If something in the process HAD to change, I wouldn't have turned down the diameter too much in the beginning. Rather keeping as much material as possible for as long as possible. Finishing the collet from front to back might help, but then you wouldn't have something to lay out the steps on. A double edges sword either way. I enjoyed watching the way you chose to do it anyway. And again, thank you for spending the time making these videos for all to watch.
Hi Steve & love your chanel!
Two tips that might be helpful.
To make the collets more flexable and grip better, try drilling the collet on the back side say 1/4" diameter, or the same diameter as the factory collet and leave at least 2x the final collet size in this case 1/8" x 2 = 1 /4 " long reamed portion.
It would have made the slitting easier to boot.
A good way to get the slitting saw lined up is chuck up a test piece or the piece you used before turning it all up especially if it is really long, and place it in your fixture and make offsets as you did or line it up by eye. Take a shallow trial cut on the very end of the piece then turn the part 180 and try again and make adjustments until the cutter is on center. It's a great way to line up gear cutters and almost any circular cutter using a spin type of indexer.
Cheers and TFS.
Chuck
Good idea on oversizing the back side. Slotting a test piece is my goto as I have screw the centerline too many times. One pass slot is trick I learned from Lipton.
I have made collets like this. The 1/4 back drill to the slits will allow easier flex and better grip. 4 slits are better and allow full depth cuts with your slitting saw.
Agreed, and the relief would probably be important for even heat treat as well
I have always loved making things, and watching you fix screw ups and come up with alternate ways of achieving a worktable solution to a successful outcome is very much like my own shop experience. Thanks!
Great job. Making collets that run true is a good test of skill. The only thing I can mention is that neither drills or reamers locate holes precisely. So in between the drilling and reaming, a pass with a micro boring bar, would make sure the center hole is true to the spindle. Your final runout test shows this wasn't really required for this job.
Heat treating without any extra stock allowance to grind would likely make a mess of it, so I wouldn't. And as you said, not really needed for how it will be used.
Satisfaction is rolling your own good job
Great Video - Over the years lost so many of those, yet never thought about machining one. In a way, a small part is harder to machine than something larger, makes you respect mass production and how we get accustomed to grabbing parts off a shelf. Nice to see the mill in action!
Steve, I love your opinion at the end, "looks perfect except for the mistakes" In my shop, 60% of the time, It works every time.
Fantastic video Steve keep them coming , very much appreciate the time and effort you put in. Best wishes to you and family,from across the pond in Cornwall uk
Nice video. Thanks for posting.
I have clicked on thumbs up every time I have seen a video from you, even if a lot of them should have needed two ;)
Thanks buddy👍👍
Thank you for sharing. No difference on the collet, and enjoying the channel.👍
Thanks bud👍😁
Steve, other than starting nearer the end of the stock as you already mentioned when doing the lathe work, I would have run the slitting saw deeper until it was very near the far side of the bore. This would "square up" the cut at the base of the slot a little, and I'm sure has no practical value, but it's just something I thought when you were running it in on the first cut.
And thank you for continuing to make these videos.
Thanks!
We love your videos
Sunday, Steve and Grits! Yeppie!! Look forward to you every week. You always teach me something, may be totally unrelated to the subject of the video but I am better in some way. Thanks for taking the time to share. God Bless you and your family.
Thanks buddy, I am glad you get something from the videos. It's why we make them😁👍
You have taught me a ton over the years, thanks and I hope to meet you someday to shake your hand and say thanks in person.
@@Uncleroger1225 If you are ever in KY I'll be glad to show you the shop. Just let me know 👍
I would go buy one😏or get out my bench grinder and hacksaw 💥
I have collets for a dremel that are Aluminum? and steel ones too- My Foredom tool motor with flex shaft has a regular keyed chuck? I have some dental flex shaft tools (because my wife is a Dentist) that have quick-release collets, but only one size tool shank that I use for Plastic Model building-
I wouldn't worry about heat treating it, I have a number of collets for Foredom and Dremel that are aluminum and they work as well as the steel ones.
Steve I am a watchmaker things I do have to be perfect. I see no problems with your process Danny
The central controls on the mill are the biggest advantage over a mill like the Bridgeport. The Rambaudi at my shop has the central controls. I only use the Bridgeport when the Rambaudi isn't up to the task.
Thanks for the videos!
As an alternative to the slitting saw for the grooves you could try to mill them with a high speed air spindle/die grinder and small mill in the support of the lathe. I tried it once and although I was sure the 1mm mill would break on contact it surprisingly cut like a knife through butter. This was also for a small collet .
Mr Steve, nice job and I wouldn't heat treat it, you won't need it. The only thing different I would do is make 3 or 4 of the collets. And go back and make several of the 1/4" collet so I have several on hand. Again great job.
Thanks for the video. I have made little odds and ends like this from a pre-hardened material. Viscount44, Fatigue-proof, or even 4140 pre-hard. They all machine nicely.
Wow! The coffee must have been strong this morning! 🤣
The spoon slowly falls to the rim of the cup if stood up. 🥴😜
When I saw three slits I wondered what the best method for cutting them would be. Aside from a slitting saw (the way you did it) I couldn't think of anything. That was a nice job and excellent video. Thanks.
when you first stepped up to the cutter grinder at @4:20 I thought you were going to grind the OD between centers!
that's probably a litter overkill for this project though! cheers!
STAN, Steve could sure use a heat treat oven!
I think that the only thing I would have done different is the order of operations to keep that part rigid as possible until the end. I would face it, and get that front taper in first, center drill slightly wider than the hole. then drill and ream the hole to depth . to accept the center again. Then turn the the ODs to size and then the back taper. Doing it this way would ensure that the hole is concentric to the OD, because you just have a more rigid setup through most of the operations.. Yours turned out fine anyway. That's probably just the way I would have done it. As far as the slitting saw goes I might have tried to center it by touching off on the bottom and the top and finding the center between those 2 dimensions, but honestly it's such a small part and a large slitting saw that there is a lot of flex to contend with in that setup. You did good! I enjoy getting two videos from you on the weekend.
As far as the collet goes, the only change I would have made is one you already know about which is to start at the end of the material instead of the middle. On a cautionary note, the die grinder you are using has one fatal flaw that you should be aware of. Due to the fact that the body is entirely made out of plastic, pay particular attention to the metal encased area. The shaft bearings are located inside that metal cone encased in plastic. When those bearings get a little wear on them they heat up good enough to melt the plastic which destroys the grinder outside shell. When using the grinder give that cone a touch for heat every five minutes or so and if it feels hot shut it down and let it cool for a bit. As a welder and fitter I have used those grinders for years since they were company supplied and about once a month someone would cook one beyond repair. New bearings are readily available and the replacement time is about 20 minutes.
Thanks, I will check mine as I just got it back from loaning it to a friend.
@@TomokosEnterprize loaned it to a friend? its toast lol
@@ronalddavis Some people just never learn. Thankfully it is ok.
Ive got 3 of the Makitas just like this one and they run hot as hell in the first place and Scooter nailed it 100%. Look for a Foredom grinder along with a good flex shaft and foot pedel. Hang it from a hanger over your bench and never look at another Dremel ever again. Ive got several Foredoms and the only time Ill dig out a Dremel is for something outside.
@@GunnerAsch1 Every new motorized tool I get are taken apart and a liberal amount of "0" grade synthetic grease into the cleaned out gear and bearing boxes applied. 120 volt or battery, makes no difference. Brushes last longer, as do bearings. Along with the triggers as the whole tool runs much cooler. If you can't get "O" grade grease #1 is fine. Manufacturers do that on purpose as if they don't wear out parts they want to sell parts and better yet a new grinder or drill or. give that a try. Just don't overpack the system as bearings and gears need some breathing room eh.
I prefer 4140/4150 pre-hardened stock. It machines so nice, gives great finishes with carbide tooling, and runs about 28/32 Rc hardness.
It makes for super tools.
That offset might actually be working to your advantage, but making the shank flex slightly, helping the collet to move into alignment in the socket as you tighten it up. Think of it as an unintended alignment feature, plus as they relax they will stop the shaft from freezing onto the collet.
From watching many of your videos, I figured out the slits. You didn't take half the thickness of the saw as well on the measurement. Not a critique as I wouldn't have that info without your information sharing! Looks like it works just fine as is and thanks for another fantastic and instructional video!
No suggestions or criticisms Steve ,just an enjoyable video on an over kill big lathe for a small part. Whilst I'm sure the little table top lathe could've done the job ,I 'm just envious as I don't have room for a good old Colchester ( in Uk , Clausing over there) ,but however ,a lathe is a lathe , even my humble Boxford ( (uk version of small South bend ) . Thanks for taking the time to make the video .
The central controls on the mill are an excellent convenience for small parts
Hehe, "It's absolutely perfect - except for the mistakes". I can relate.
Thats a really handy grinder attachment right there. Thanks Steve, I didn't know that I needed a flex shaft grinder 😂 Keep up the awesome videos!
Nice job Steve learn something every time. The tool grinder is the best
hello nice work
Again loving that grinder of yours! I would have done it the other way shank towards the tail stock head toward the chuck, part it off. Then put the shank in a collet and do the angles with the compound. Would have put four slots(2 cuts). Then you wouldn’t have the radius in the slot.
Stay safe and we'll see you next week.
nice work
Good afternoon, Steve! Nice episode 👏
With no lathe and no mill, I would have bought one. Maybe someday. awesome job.
I enjoy your videos two times in a weekend great stuff
Thanks for the video as always. That was great to watch and motivating.
Very fun vid to to watch.
I love my foredom.
Nice job Steve
Your marching process was good. Maybe I would have used D2. Leave the collet on main bar stock. Heat treat. Clean and polish, then use a thin friction grinding disk and cut it from the main bar stock.
Not being a machinist but watching you do what you do best is the main reason I always watch. I enjoy your wisdom, your explanations, just watching you turn a piece of steel into something useful, or adding a coolant line to your band saw as an example. Thanks so much for sharing everything you do. You're not afraid of doing something you have not done before, and thinking outside the box to get it done. Saturday and Sunday this week, could not ask far anything more. Thank you, n take care. Until next time, stay safe.
i would have got the three slots perfect on centre, BUT they would be not 120 degrees apart!! Always the last operation that gets you!!
I have made a very few collets and I did it just like you did except for different machines and I had only a spin indexer to hold the part to slit it. Great video!
Maybe a smaller diameter slitting saw? It would make the spring arms of the collet a couple of thou longer. Maybe grip the burrs a little tighter.
Steve, if you don't have a mill a jewelers saw and 4 slits are easy to do in the lathe. And probably faster counting mill setup time.
Cooler than LL Cool J in the 90’s 😂 love it.
As far as the collet, which turned out great, I think I’d have grabbed the stock in a Jacobs rubberflex collet, used the compound for the angles, and cut them with just a little pointed cutter rather than a form tool. Cut the nose angle, slide the stock out of the collet a little, maybe change to a different cutter and cut the back angle, slide the stock out a little and cut the remaining od of the collet body, then drill. I often use this method of kind of extruding the part out of a jacobs collet since it’s a more concentric easily repeatable hold than a three jaw. Not at all saying my take is better, and I don’t have a comparator so mine probably would’ve been worse anyway 😅
It works it's a win.Well done.
“Perfect, except for the mistakes”-that made me audibly snort with laughter!!!!
Looks good to me.
Good video
Nice little job you made🤩, only difference that I like to do that kind job, is to cut inside to out. I know that was little flimsy setup for that, but when started little more center it doesn't chatter. When splitting threaded pipe all the burrs are outside and don't have to hustle inside no more.
Keep on rocking in the shop I like your style very much👊👊
Thanks 👍 👊
Hint: for a better control on finished reamed hole size, leave the final reamer only taking no more than .002" . Reamers taking more than that have a tendency to cut oversized holes.
Enjoy your videos, try make a collet to use dental drills on your fordom. They are are carbide and come in various shapes and sizes. Great for small broken taps, drills bits. Shaft size is strange 1.5 - 2.5mm but the carbide balls and cones work great. The are pretty cheap and various size and shapes.