This has been SUPER useful, the PDF you guys offered was good, but this is far more visual. Hopefully allows me to get my pedal feel right! Thanks a bunch!
Great Video and written instructions on line, only wish I had seen this in 2005 as the instructions with my happy meal then made no reference to this adjustment procedure. But better late than never totally transformed my notchy gearchange, only went looking for advice as it started to crunch engaging reverse and I had learnt to live with the poor forward gear disengagement.
I don't think I understand how the clutch safety witch override is beneficial to a bearing? What is the "thrust bearing" and how does having the switch always engaged provide additional lubrication? Thanks.
Thrust bearing stops your crank shaft from walking (Crank-Walk). Its a piece inside the engine holding your crank from going forwards or backwards. When you add a heavier pressure plate, it adds more stress to the thrust bearing, which is bad, especially if it isn't properly lubricated. The safety switch delete makes it so you can start the car in neutral without disengaging the clutch I.E. putting stress on an unlubricated thrust bearing
Problem is 'dry ' starts, when time since the car was last used has the thrust bearing drained out of any residual oil. On starting, it takes a few revs for oil pressure to build and move new oil to the thrust bearing. No oil and end force on the crank wears the thrust bearing early. Starting with the pedal floored puts end force on the crankshaft. The safety interlock defeat removes this force on dry starts. And the thrust bearing lasts far longer.
Our clutches intentionally engage much nearer to the floor for more precise and speedy shifting. Full adjustment procedures should be in the instructions, but if you have any questions, please give us a call. We'll be more than happy to walk you through it!
We do not manufacture our own master/slave cylinders, but offer a full line of products from OES suppliers. Visit our website for more info on the specific parts you need, or feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly via phone or email.
I know this is an old video but I'm at my wits end and hope someone can respond lol. I bought a stage 1 clutch for my 96 1.8l, and since installing it, it squeaks. Almost like a bad throwout bearing but I replaced the throwout bearing when I installed the new clutch. I've greased both the ends of the slave cylinder and it's still making the noise if there isnt pressure on the clutch. Like if I have any slack at all in the clutch pedal it squeaks.
The squeak could be something as simple as the fork pressing against the slave, or the spring inside the transmission housing. Give us a call directly or email support@flyinmiata.com and we'll be happy to help troubleshoot.
@@FlyinMiataVideo I actually figured it out the other day, it was the clip on the back of the clutch fork inside the bell housing. Apparently I didn't grease it enough when I was putting it in. Absolutely loving the clutch, and it's holding my turbo power well haha
I'm getting ready to swap out my stock clutch with 158k on it with one of your Happy Meals clutch, but I'm getting a little worried on all the reviews about it only lasting 10k miles. I understand that I'll need to adjust the clutch pedal afterwards, but I'm expecting it to last as long as the original clutch did. Why is it I'm reading that peoples are slipping after only a year or so? Could you elaborate on this? Is not an upgraded clutch supposed to out live and out perform the stocker? I understand a lot of it depends on driving style, how hard you are on it, etc. etc.... but as I've said- mine is sitting at 158k.
Clutch wear depends a lot on driving style and use. The initial adjustment and thus break-in has a really big effect as well. A lot of people installing upgraded clutches are asking more of them than the originals could handle. We don't expect it to last any longer than a stock clutch, but have no reason to believe it should be any shorter lived if treated the same and the initial adjustment is done properly.
sooo i've been doing my research reading as much bad reviews than good one and i think i came to a conclusion. Because of the FM clutch requierment of a long trow to have less pedal effort, if you dont adjust correctly the clutch it will never be fully engaged. Thus some poeple have problems because they break in their clutches with it sliping a little bit. And has we know if you fuck up the break in, the clutch is toast. I'm wondering if comp clutch the same company that makes de FM clutches for flying miata specs makes the same clutch but maybe with a higher pedal pressure but less need for maxing out the stock clutch adjustement to have it disengage. That would give us more adjustement for the pedal grabbing point.
So I put a new clutch in my Miata, and the car wouldn’t go in gear, meaning that the clutch wasn’t disengaging. So I adjusted my clutch and it works but it starts grabbing right off the floor. Never did that before. I have a new slave cylinder in as well so not sure what it could be. New TO bearing, new pilot bearing, and bled for bubbles. Any suggestions?
That sure sounds like a hydraulic problem. Check that new slave cylinder for leaking. It's also possible (but less likely) that the master has a problem.
This is incorrect. This should not effect cruise control. Give us a call if you are having issues and we can try to help you find your issue. 970-464-5600
You are mistaking the clutch safety interlock function with the Clutch Position Sensor function. The latter is behind the pedal, and part of the CC system. The safety interlock is on the firewall, and in the ignition circuit, not the CC system electrics.
This has been SUPER useful, the PDF you guys offered was good, but this is far more visual. Hopefully allows me to get my pedal feel right! Thanks a bunch!
Thanks Tim!
Great Video and written instructions on line, only wish I had seen this in 2005 as the instructions with my happy meal then made no reference to this adjustment procedure.
But better late than never totally transformed my notchy gearchange, only went looking for advice as it started to crunch engaging reverse and I had learnt to live with the poor forward gear disengagement.
Has Flyin' Miata thought about doing a complete start to finish video or video series of the happy meal clutch kit install on NA/NBs?
It's on our list to try to get eventually, thanks for the suggestion!
I don't think I understand how the clutch safety witch override is beneficial to a bearing? What is the "thrust bearing" and how does having the switch always engaged provide additional lubrication? Thanks.
Thrust bearing stops your crank shaft from walking (Crank-Walk). Its a piece inside the engine holding your crank from going forwards or backwards. When you add a heavier pressure plate, it adds more stress to the thrust bearing, which is bad, especially if it isn't properly lubricated. The safety switch delete makes it so you can start the car in neutral without disengaging the clutch I.E. putting stress on an unlubricated thrust bearing
Problem is 'dry ' starts, when time since the car was last used has the thrust bearing drained out of any residual oil. On starting, it takes a few revs for oil pressure to build and move new oil to the thrust bearing. No oil and end force on the crank wears the thrust bearing early. Starting with the pedal floored puts end force on the crankshaft. The safety interlock defeat removes this force on dry starts. And the thrust bearing lasts far longer.
So I installed the stage 2. The engagement is basically to the floor. Is this what I have to adjust?
Our clutches intentionally engage much nearer to the floor for more precise and speedy shifting. Full adjustment procedures should be in the instructions, but if you have any questions, please give us a call. We'll be more than happy to walk you through it!
had my clutch adjusted all the way out and still cant fully disengage
Please email our CS team (support@flyinmiata.com) with more details about your disengagement issue and we'll do our best to find a solution.
Same
For the NC Miata, are the specifications the same for pedal play/dimensions?
If you're installing one of our clutches in your NC, you'll follow the factory clutch pedal adjustment procedure and pedal play spec.
Thank you for this video.
What's the best brand of clutch master and clutch slave? Does FM make its own clutch cylinders?
We do not manufacture our own master/slave cylinders, but offer a full line of products from OES suppliers. Visit our website for more info on the specific parts you need, or feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly via phone or email.
I know this is an old video but I'm at my wits end and hope someone can respond lol. I bought a stage 1 clutch for my 96 1.8l, and since installing it, it squeaks. Almost like a bad throwout bearing but I replaced the throwout bearing when I installed the new clutch. I've greased both the ends of the slave cylinder and it's still making the noise if there isnt pressure on the clutch. Like if I have any slack at all in the clutch pedal it squeaks.
The squeak could be something as simple as the fork pressing against the slave, or the spring inside the transmission housing. Give us a call directly or email support@flyinmiata.com and we'll be happy to help troubleshoot.
@@FlyinMiataVideo I actually figured it out the other day, it was the clip on the back of the clutch fork inside the bell housing. Apparently I didn't grease it enough when I was putting it in. Absolutely loving the clutch, and it's holding my turbo power well haha
@@promethieos1875 Glad to hear it was an easy fix!
I got the fm1 for my na6 Miata. It vibrates and makes wired noise at low rpm. Is that normal?
Please contact our customer service department to troubleshoot this.
Do your clutches fit the 6 speed too?
Yes they do.
@@FlyinMiataVideo awsome!
I'm getting ready to swap out my stock clutch with 158k on it with one of your Happy Meals clutch, but I'm getting a little worried on all the reviews about it only lasting 10k miles. I understand that I'll need to adjust the clutch pedal afterwards, but I'm expecting it to last as long as the original clutch did. Why is it I'm reading that peoples are slipping after only a year or so? Could you elaborate on this? Is not an upgraded clutch supposed to out live and out perform the stocker? I understand a lot of it depends on driving style, how hard you are on it, etc. etc.... but as I've said- mine is sitting at 158k.
Clutch wear depends a lot on driving style and use. The initial adjustment and thus break-in has a really big effect as well. A lot of people installing upgraded clutches are asking more of them than the originals could handle.
We don't expect it to last any longer than a stock clutch, but have no reason to believe it should be any shorter lived if treated the same and the initial adjustment is done properly.
I adjusted my clutch all the way and its not disengaging
Please email our support team and we'll see how we can help.
sooo i've been doing my research reading as much bad reviews than good one and i think i came to a conclusion. Because of the FM clutch requierment of a long trow to have less pedal effort, if you dont adjust correctly the clutch it will never be fully engaged. Thus some poeple have problems because they break in their clutches with it sliping a little bit. And has we know if you fuck up the break in, the clutch is toast.
I'm wondering if comp clutch the same company that makes de FM clutches for flying miata specs makes the same clutch but maybe with a higher pedal pressure but less need for maxing out the stock clutch adjustement to have it disengage. That would give us more adjustement for the pedal grabbing point.
So I put a new clutch in my Miata, and the car wouldn’t go in gear, meaning that the clutch wasn’t disengaging. So I adjusted my clutch and it works but it starts grabbing right off the floor. Never did that before. I have a new slave cylinder in as well so not sure what it could be. New TO bearing, new pilot bearing, and bled for bubbles. Any suggestions?
That sure sounds like a hydraulic problem. Check that new slave cylinder for leaking. It's also possible (but less likely) that the master has a problem.
Problem with your clutch safety switch tool is that you cant use cruise control.
I can use cruise control
This is incorrect. This should not effect cruise control. Give us a call if you are having issues and we can try to help you find your issue. 970-464-5600
You are mistaking the clutch safety interlock function with the Clutch Position Sensor function. The latter is behind the pedal, and part of the CC system. The safety interlock is on the firewall, and in the ignition circuit, not the CC system electrics.