Best way I've found to build comb in brood box is drop a starter strip frame or plastic foundation with a couple large holes drilled in it(1 ¹/²" worked for me, place frame between open brood, they hate gaps between larvae and having it open allows them to feed back and forth as they build them out. Press on my friend beekeeping can be discouraging at times but God will help you, keep Him first and press on.
The starter finisher is to care for the young queens (1) queenless to start the queen process usually one day until the bees accept the graft (2) move the graft into the queenrite setup to double the number of bees to care for the larvae until capped, be sure to feed them patty and syrup once you get ready to graft. I move my cells to an incubator to prevent the bees from tearing down the cells, a queenless hive will only leave five cells, the queenrite colony left you 17 queens, something about their instinct. Its worth the 50 bucks spent on a chicken incubator (TSC) set around 94 degrees. Learning to graft, some of your queens may not be the best but at least you are getting the hives started and requeen next year. For me, some hives had excellent queens and a few just did not build up as expected.
A game changer for me in drawing out the plastic foundation was to coat it with melted bee's wax before putting them in the hive. Great work! Thanks for sharing..Good luck
@@JaredBeekeeping I bought wax after I saw how fast the bees got on properly waxed frames. I melt the wax in a electric skillet with thermostat, I roll on melted wax with a trim roller. Use a light touch and try to build up wax on the ridges not in the pockets. I save all my wax now and keep a good store of wax. I can even put whole frames in my solar melter, no boiling water and no flames.
You’ve got to add wax to the foundations. Just have to heat up a block of wax in a crockpot and I use a foam roller to put the wax on. You put them on the top and they will draw it out. Sometimes a spray some sugar water on the frames to show them what they have. Hope this helps!!
I believe that you are moving too quickly.. more time is needed between splitting.. if you are letting each nuke draw out its own queen then the nuke needs actuall eggs not brood.. Lets go through the life cycle.. Egg to queen 17 days plus 4 for breeding.. she comes back starts laying eggs .. 21 days for workers.. those juveniles tend the hive as nurses for two weeks then head out to forage.. after a week of foraging the hive should be strong enough to split again.. So we have split times of 17+4+7+21+14+7 = 70 days between splits to make sure you have strong splits..
I really enjoyed this ….. I felt like I was there working with you. Keep up the good work. Thanks for making the effort to share your experience. I really enjoy it.
Another great video. I’m pulling for you brother. You might not be exactly where you want to be by now but you’re still off to a great start. God bless you and yours.
Amazing video. I absolutely love how original and open you are. Im following you and enjoy your content and parying for your success bud. Absolutely rooting for you.
The original Tennessee bees were black until the yellow Italians were imported in 1857. I think one of the virigin queens from another box flew out to mate and decided to go into your cell bar hive instead of facing the drama of fighting for supremacy in her hive. She tore up your cell bar. Maybe I am wrong but thats why its best to keep your cell builders in a seperate yard from your mating yards
Couple things I’ve learned… is double or triple cinder blocks on your racks and save your back. If they are low get a bucket to sit on. For your queen cells at the end you likely had a queen in the builder. When you make your builders put excluders under the box to help keep that from happening. I also found when my waxed foundation gets dusty they will get artistic w the comb or have poor acceptance. Feed more than a quart a week and they will draw comb better and make the splits 2-3 d frames of bees and they will draw better. (Many hands make light work). Your killing it! I think I may have chatted with you at the Hillco booth but who knows we had a ton of people!
You are doing great. I read all the comments and you are getting some good advice. Id reiterate what ricklee said about, it takes bees to make bees. The queen will only lay up to how much help she has. Thats bacically a 3 or 4 week delay waiting for enough bees to be born to take care of the slabs of brood you are now seeing. The gloves you are using hold the stingers so the alarm pheromone builds up and agitates even the gentle bees. Give the nitrile gloves another try, starting in the calmer hives and i believe you'll see a difference. Finally, a tip i heard but haven't tried is to run a hair dryer over the older waxed frame to freshman them. Im looking forward to seeing more videos.
Hahaha, that's what I get for commenting before the end. I'm glad the rubber gloves are working. I believe they are nitrile, not latex. I've heard latex doesn't work as well.
Putting waxed foundation between brood comb will create an emergency response from the bees to draw them out. Try to keep 2 drawn frames together when possible if temps still get into 50s at night. You might need to put a coat of wax on those foundation for sure. If there is no flow you need to be feeding multiple gallons of 1:1 to get comb drawn. They are using your syrup to rear brood. Keep in mind bees need to be 12 days old to develop their wax glands. If you can time it from when all the brood emerges throw a pollen patty on top of next to the feed and your colonies will explode. I got close to 800 frames drawn last year and took 7 colonies 55. Your queens are laying slabs of brood so things should be picking up and might have already and will probably see it at the end of the video!. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
@tomahawkmissile241 If he throws the pollen patties and 1:1 to them by the gallons they will be decent 10 frame colonies come sept/October in time to make the winter brood. That's how I did it last year.....it was not cheap but I basically fed my little colonies from July to October switch to 2:1 at end of Sept. Apigaurd mite treatment first 2.5 weeks of August and OAV in Novemeber. They were mostly in double 10 frame deeps by then. I had 38 of 40 colonies make it through winter in WV. Needs to be a couple gallon a week though. I'd also recommend he switch to Global patties with the biologix "rocket fuel" its soft and smaller colonies can process it faster to keep it from becoming slimed with beetle larvae.
Thanks for advice. 800 frames?! I’m glad to hear it’s possible, I’m going to do very little splitting the rest of the year and focus on growing and drawing out that foundation.
@JaredBeekeeping yes sir it took a lot of 1:1 but I even had them building comb in October on 2:1. I put 1lb of pollen patty on them late in Sept so that kept them wanting to build brood and cycled in foundations.
Like your plan it's a good idea. I have found with my hives that are always grumpy with me going into them I tried putting my be sut into a bag and smoke it up in the bag before I put it on and I find that tend to want to stay away more.
You can get too greedy and splitting after the flow is over is extra hard. Best to split right before the flow, so food is plentiful for everything else out there also. Plus, the pest like small hive beetles love invading small weak mating nucs. Best to be patient and split once in early spring. Best of luck.👍
I enjoyed watching your video, you seem humble and enjoyable to be around. I'm a new bee keeper too, on my 3rd year. I have noticed if you want comb drawn keep the syrup to em but make sure they're taking it so it doesn't ferment. I have learned that quality is worth more than quantity. Get a old crock pot and a roller for the foundation thats old.
Bob binnie recommended adding a few drops bleach to preserve life of sugar water, also I emulsify some wintergreen and thyme essential oil to help fight mites and hinder mold. Fat bee man has some videos on emulsify mix. I'm very impressed with your geter dun mindset
Good work getting all the splits made and going. I would bet that the queen cells that got destroyed were killed by a queen that hatched earlier than you had planed. I hope that the sourwood honey flow is good to you and the splits.
Thanks. Unfortunately the sourwood flow isn’t great this year in my area but winged sumac is about to bloom and we have tons of it, so I’m hoping to fill several supers!
Hi Jared, love your video's, a fellow beekeeper from far far away in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧. I too am trying to build a life being a keeper of the bees, would be awesome to ask you some questions and things about your journey to share with the uk 🇬🇧 big 💛 Happybees Honey 🍯
Your jar feeders have too little access for them to get it fast and need to store it. You’re slow feeding them like a maintenance level of feed not a fast feed building level of feed. Frame feeders or bucket feeders with a large area screen feeder. They need lots of access to the feed to mimic a heavy nectar flow to get them to build storage cells. They build plastic foundation much better if it’s heavily coated with wax. You can melt it and apply with a foam roller or just mash a bunch of stray removed comb into a ball and rub it onto the foundations. They will rework the excess wax in the grid of the foundation. It takes bees to make bees. A small population can only feed and warm so much brood. As population grows then they can care for more brood. It’s hard and fun trying to get bugs to do what you want them to do.
Thanks for the tips Rick.I wish had the wax, it was dumb looking back now but I sold all my wax last fall. Yes it is, Not to mention having to kill bug (Varroa) on a bug.
@@JaredBeekeeping 😂. Sometimes you got to pay up and be humble. A humble bumble. Go get your wax back. No shame in paying double ⏩. Every man deserves some profit.
I add a frame of brood and some resources to my nucs so that when they hatch out they have the wax of those youngsters to draw with, it saves time waiting for the queens own brood to hatch out, I also wax the plastic foundation of the new frames preferably with new white wax just to give them a start.
You are really getting after it. I applaud your drive and determination. I only have two hives and would like to get to ten in the next two years. There is a big difference between a hobbyist and a professional! I think you will do great.
Nice Video ! 👍 I don't like any / or use Foundation in my Hives. I use all Tension Wired Frames (Horizontally.) and add a BBQ Skewer stapled to the under Top Frame Bar. And drizzle a little of my own melted Burr / Or Older Dark Comb. Thats the Guide or Starter Strip Bees use. By adding a 'empty' frame between last Years Comb, means after say x3 Years or so, you can replace old with new, and use the Melt Wax Pot to aid the next Seasons Comb. Win, win. The Bees will make lovely Natural Comb (that as its strengthened by those Wires, can be Extracted with no blown out Elements.) Here in Scotland 🏴 our Bees have a Short but very busy Season. They build Comb real fast in early Spring. So get next Years Comb made in this Years Bee Season. To much Commercial Comb / Plastic Comb, thats Coated in Wax, I'm sure has a lot of Residual Pesticides / or build up of some of the older Varroa Mite Miticides in them too. Go Home Grown do 'Au Natural', and your Colonies will build up Healthy and super Strong. I'm only a Hobby Beek. Started the Season with x4 Over-Wintered Colonies. And now have x12. Have not had to feed any of them until now (Nucs mainly) as I prefer to grow Brood and Bees over Honey Harvest. Bees made now, that are Strong and Healthy, will survive a Winter no problem. Breed in the Summer, to be your Honey Makers next Spring ! 😉 Its poor levels of Nutrition and Hive moisture that kills Colonies. One style of Hive I have : the French Warre Hive, do suggest to 'take' any Honey only when Spring has come properly. Eg Honey made (last year) is left until Winter has passed, to then 'take' a Honey Crop ! The French Abbot who invented them : took his Skills from watching Nature. Good luck with your Venture ! Also good Varroa Mite prevention, minimum of x4 different ones through the Year will mean your Bees will thrive too. Eg : Splits, Frame Cage Queen, Apiguard (Thymol) Oxalic Acid are examples of the more 'natural' but successful ways to rid of VM. Agri/Pharma Varroa products are leaving to much build up in Wax these days. And I'm sure become less effective over prolonged use. Only my stance, but my Bees survive and if any Re-Queen with young Queens, that assists the Hives too. Strong Queen: Great Brood. Super Strong Colony. 😎 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Happy Beekeeping 2023 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
What we used to do when we had a really hot Hive back when I used to work commercial beekeeping was to put a little bit of fresh horse manure and a hot smoker my boss said that that would create something that was like laughing gas that would definitely make the bees more calm. I have always done that whenever I could get something like that.. those bees were definitely Africanized and I have dealt with that same problem whenever I came back from California with my hives. It took me a long time and making a lot of small divides to finally get my bees to where I can work them without gloves
Not with nasty bees you won’t, nasty bees know exactly where to nail you , until his hives have good queens in them he should stay with the gloves or his hands are going to be stung the crap out of , I know I had nasty bees I know what they do ,maybe you should try some nasty bees and see for yourself.
Going to have to break down and start bucket feeding to boost drawing comb Maybe keep some larger colonies just for drawing comb to use on your other hives. Enjoying the process.
Jared if you can get your hands on some carnie queens I recommend them , they are calm and the queens lay up the hives very good , I got Italians to and the majority or them get nasty ,I really like the carnolian queens myself.
The bees wont draw out the comb until there are enough bees and there's a flow on no matter what the foundation including pure wax foundation. I use both and nothing will be drawn until they need to work on it. Once there's a flow on they'll have to put the honey someplace and they'll use plastic but it's best to have it ready to go by coating it with wax first. That's hard to do when you're starting out because you don't have spare wax so possibly use pure wax or strips to start? The other thing I did and may work for you is continue with the nucs on top of the hives but do it slightly differently. Place an excluder over the bottom box. Bring up some shaken brood into the nucs, Shake them to make sure there's no queen on the frames. The nurse bees will move up to take care of the brood. If there are enough bees to keep it warm enough you can relocate the nuc at this point and Introduce the queen cell at this stage. If the numbers are low and you need the warmth leave them above the excluder and introduce the queen cell in the nucs still above the excluder. You'll need a small entrance in the nucs in this case of course. The queens will mate and start laying and you can then do the usual thing with a nuc from that point. You can keep doing this as long as the donor hives are strong enough to allow.
Either decal or paint different patterns on hives so bees know which hives are theres. Also place legs on hives or bases, submerged in water to keep unwanted insects from climbing Into hives, even possibly rodents. Keep up good work. Also, let hives have a chance to grow before splitting... giving them strength. Too much sugar water can possibly weaken hives strength.
Sugar water does not weaken a hive. If you use a 1 to1 sugar water mix, the bees will draw out wax much quicker And if you're getting ready to go into winter and you wanna beef up their food supply for the winter, use a 2 to 1 or. Stronger mix so they can put on weight. For the winter, it won't take as long to dry it out to make a sugar water, honey. You cannot sell sugar water, honey. But if you want to use it to sweeten your 17:46 coffee, it's good for that but it doesn't impart any antibiotics or anti allergenic properties. That is why you cannot sell sugar water honey And sugar water syrup will not make the bees any less bees. If there is a flow on, they will go after the flow as opposed to the Sugar, water syrup. If there is a flow on. They will go after nectar much faster than they will. The sugar water syrup.
Once the bees build up in numbers they will build comb like crazy if you feed them. When that capped brood frame emerges thats several thousand bees each.
I was hoping to finish this year on 50 hives but the scottish summer weather didn't appear this year 😂 think its going to be around 30 hives, not having drawn out comb is a big disadvantage.
Also I've been rubbing a block of fresh wax on each plastic frame as I find them not building correctly on-site. 3/4" starter strips with fishing string woven thru holes seems to be their preference, they build from top to bottom in a round formation both sides as they build, I'm surprised they even build on one side of our foundations....that kinda goes against their nature of how they build
Once you add wax, they will draw off of it right away just about, I use a propane torch with bar wax and rub it in, it works amazing and is pretty fast.
You are correct if your frames are that old it does need to be refreshed with wax . You will see a lot of difference. When I Purchase new frames I automatically right off the bat rewax all my frames
At 28.00min your cell builder hive doesn’t appear to be strong enough to build the number of cells you grafted. Spring isn’t far away down here in New Zealand. Just starting to check some of my hives, looking good so far and brood is building up nicely
Hello Jared beekeeping, Many thanks for making these videos. I am following with great interest as you are doing what I have been wanting to do with my bees. May I ask, what is your end goal, is it so you can produce loads of honey next season or to sell strong colonies to other bee keepers or something different. Again may thanks and looking forward to seeing more videos.
@@JaredBeekeeping Many thanks for your reply. If I had payed attention, in the first video you did say what you have planned. It was a joy to go back and re watch the previous videos. Thanks again John a subscriber from the UK.
Queens will only lay as many eggs as the colony care care for. Meaning you have to have the population to care for brood and forage, liquid feed as you have been doing but also pollen. Brood can not develop without the protein. Slaps some patties in there. Hope you reach your goals
I’m not sure why they start ripping the cells down but it happens to me as well. I pull my cells after day 5 or 6 after the cells are drawn and put them in a finisher or more likely my incubator. I then give the cell builder another graft. You can probably get 3 grafts out of a real strong cell builder. The second graft tends to be stronger. Good luck. Your doing a great a job.
I think they recommend not putting grafted bars in a hive with old bees, they recommend young bees to prevent them tearing down cells.....but your definitely doing better than me, im still running behind on grafting:)
@@JaredBeekeeping ok, so it may be a bit harder to do here bc of the shorter season. Thanks for the info! Please keep making videos about your journey. Very informative and helpful!
Do you have 4 frame nucs on top of 10 frame hives? Where are you getting 4 framers? If you got one that draws comb then keep taking from it and exchanging foundation and let it draw all your wax for you.
I had too much bee death in mine. I'd say your right, but I switched to the pales and have not noticed a difference. I'm also using heavy wax frames from Premier.
great video . I like nitrile gloves as they still let you have dexterity and even though the bees could sting through them they don't regard nitrile as a living thing so do try to sting it, they are also better at cutting down the spread of diseases between hives if you replace them alot . I find smoking hot hives is the only thing that calms them mean buggers down.
36:31 how do you make new Queens with open swarm cells if they're open and not capped they're going to be dead one way or another. Either they wont mature if not capped or it means another queen attacked them already.
Can't tell from the video but the foundation you were looking at at about 8 minutes looked lacking in wax. The stuff you buy that claims to be pre-waxed varies wildly in quality. You might try squashing the crazy comb that the bees are building rather than scraping it off. If you do that and spread it around they aren't losing the wax they did produce and the foundation is getting better coverage for them to pull from.
The second double nuc looked good to me. All that brood, in a few days you will have a lot more bees. If you are worried about the foundation, just redcoat with melted bees wax. I've bough some plastic foundation a while ago and they ignored it until I put wax one them. I kinda feel like they didn't coat it at the factory. Good on you going for it! That is a lot of expansion. Pretty soon, you will need a crew.
you said your queen cells were capped on day 5. is that day 5 from when you grafted them? an egg turns into a larva after 3 days, and is then capped on day 8 from being layed. so that math works out that they were all capped the day you came back to switch around the starter/finisher.
with new colonys, feeding helps them grow. Pollen paddies and sugar water. it takes longer to get a virgin mated and laying, two weeks to a month to get them going mostly. its down time for the colony sadly, smiles. keep watching Bob B. and Randy, you cant go wrong. smiles. cowhide seems to attract bee stings more that sheepskin. I am a small guy too. only run about 14-18, I am retired. your doing great. feed early in the spring and check them during the winter for food and use candy boards. over winter dead outs are starving alot. Double screen boards for wintering is excellant also, Bob makes some good ones. easy to build with your talent tooooo, Hi-alive works well for winter feed.
Hello, don't spread your 4 fframes evenly, use a division board in each box,. when looking through your hives, you can remove the division board first, without crushing comb and bees, which gives room to remove each frame easily. This will not upset your bees so much. Kind regards, Tony Marsh.
37:47 Your cells got smoked by a queen, normal bees won't do this, either the original queen got to them somehow, more likely one hatched early and destroyed the competition, or maybe a random queen flew into your hive. Did you lose the original queen in the graft donor hive? Nice work btw, and your not the only one to use frames with old comb, the company I work for did the same with the same results of most frames being left or burr combed up.
did you feed pollen patty's along with 1 to 1 and you should only checkerboard honey supers not brood chambers never split the brood up. what about mites
Your queens could’ve been mated to drones with bad genetics you are going to create drone yards with good calm 🧬 , that will help you move towards having more gentle hives.
Best way I've found to build comb in brood box is drop a starter strip frame or plastic foundation with a couple large holes drilled in it(1 ¹/²" worked for me, place frame between open brood, they hate gaps between larvae and having it open allows them to feed back and forth as they build them out. Press on my friend beekeeping can be discouraging at times but God will help you, keep Him first and press on.
The starter finisher is to care for the young queens (1) queenless to start the queen process usually one day until the bees accept the graft (2) move the graft into the queenrite setup to double the number of bees to care for the larvae until capped, be sure to feed them patty and syrup once you get ready to graft. I move my cells to an incubator to prevent the bees from tearing down the cells, a queenless hive will only leave five cells, the queenrite colony left you 17 queens, something about their instinct. Its worth the 50 bucks spent on a chicken incubator (TSC) set around 94 degrees. Learning to graft, some of your queens may not be the best but at least you are getting the hives started and requeen next year. For me, some hives had excellent queens and a few just did not build up as expected.
A game changer for me in drawing out the plastic foundation was to coat it with melted bee's wax before putting them in the hive. Great work! Thanks for sharing..Good luck
I wish I had some wax. Thanks for the advice John!
It definitely helps to wax them.
@@JaredBeekeeping I bought wax after I saw how fast the bees got on properly waxed frames.
I melt the wax in a electric skillet with thermostat, I roll on melted wax with a trim roller.
Use a light touch and try to build up wax on the ridges not in the pockets.
I save all my wax now and keep a good store of wax.
I can even put whole frames in my solar melter, no boiling water and no flames.
كم عدد الخيل الذي تتملكه من النحل
@@WukWukHoney1yu
Ueujeei
You’ve got to add wax to the foundations. Just have to heat up a block of wax in a crockpot and I use a foam roller to put the wax on. You put them on the top and they will draw it out. Sometimes a spray some sugar water on the frames to show them what they have. Hope this helps!!
Thanks Clay! I don’t have wax but I did refresh a bunch of frames with heat on Saturday and it smells like fresh wax again so hope it does the trick.
Waxing them definitely helps.
You gotta roll that hot wax on them. Everyone has this problem.
I believe that you are moving too quickly.. more time is needed between splitting.. if you are letting each nuke draw out its own queen then the nuke needs actuall eggs not brood..
Lets go through the life cycle..
Egg to queen 17 days plus 4 for breeding.. she comes back starts laying eggs .. 21 days for workers.. those juveniles tend the hive as nurses for two weeks then head out to forage.. after a week of foraging the hive should be strong enough to split again..
So we have split times of 17+4+7+21+14+7 = 70 days between splits to make sure you have strong splits..
Wooo...Good to know! Thanks!
I really enjoyed this ….. I felt like I was there working with you. Keep up the good work. Thanks for making the effort to share your experience. I really enjoy it.
Awesome! Thank you!
Another great video. I’m pulling for you brother. You might not be exactly where you want to be by now but you’re still off to a great start. God bless you and yours.
I appreciate that!
I really enjoy these videos. Man, I'm super excited to see how you do in another 30 days.
Thanks Jean! Me to😁
Amazing video. I absolutely love how original and open you are. Im following you and enjoy your content and parying for your success bud. Absolutely rooting for you.
Thanks Danny, you’re comment means a lot!
The original Tennessee bees were black until the yellow Italians were imported in 1857. I think one of the virigin queens from another box flew out to mate and decided to go into your cell bar hive instead of facing the drama of fighting for supremacy in her hive. She tore up your cell bar. Maybe I am wrong but thats why its best to keep your cell builders in a seperate yard from your mating yards
I know im a little late but i just found your channel and im now subscribed. Very interested in your journey, you are very inspiring brother
Awesome, brother. Keep chasing your dreams. It’s not a matter of if, but when.
Couple things I’ve learned… is double or triple cinder blocks on your racks and save your back. If they are low get a bucket to sit on. For your queen cells at the end you likely had a queen in the builder. When you make your builders put excluders under the box to help keep that from happening. I also found when my waxed foundation gets dusty they will get artistic w the comb or have poor acceptance. Feed more than a quart a week and they will draw comb better and make the splits 2-3 d frames of bees and they will draw better. (Many hands make light work). Your killing it! I think I may have chatted with you at the Hillco booth but who knows we had a ton of people!
Thanks for tips! I think I chatted at about every booth at conference so probably so. I’ll be at the NAHBE this year.
@YoMommaTwo-fg6ryare you speaking to me?
Great job. The important part now is getting them all ready for winter. Hopefully you'll have a 90% survival.
Just found your channel, and love the videos man! Keep up the good work
You are doing great. I read all the comments and you are getting some good advice. Id reiterate what ricklee said about, it takes bees to make bees. The queen will only lay up to how much help she has. Thats bacically a 3 or 4 week delay waiting for enough bees to be born to take care of the slabs of brood you are now seeing.
The gloves you are using hold the stingers so the alarm pheromone builds up and agitates even the gentle bees. Give the nitrile gloves another try, starting in the calmer hives and i believe you'll see a difference. Finally, a tip i heard but haven't tried is to run a hair dryer over the older waxed frame to freshman them. Im looking forward to seeing more videos.
Hahaha, that's what I get for commenting before the end. I'm glad the rubber gloves are working. I believe they are nitrile, not latex. I've heard latex doesn't work as well.
Thanks for all the advice! I refreshed the the foundation with heat on the splits that I just made so we’ll see🤞 it smelled like fresh wax again.
Putting waxed foundation between brood comb will create an emergency response from the bees to draw them out. Try to keep 2 drawn frames together when possible if temps still get into 50s at night. You might need to put a coat of wax on those foundation for sure. If there is no flow you need to be feeding multiple gallons of 1:1 to get comb drawn. They are using your syrup to rear brood. Keep in mind bees need to be 12 days old to develop their wax glands. If you can time it from when all the brood emerges throw a pollen patty on top of next to the feed and your colonies will explode. I got close to 800 frames drawn last year and took 7 colonies 55. Your queens are laying slabs of brood so things should be picking up and might have already and will probably see it at the end of the video!. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
@tomahawkmissile241 If he throws the pollen patties and 1:1 to them by the gallons they will be decent 10 frame colonies come sept/October in time to make the winter brood. That's how I did it last year.....it was not cheap but I basically fed my little colonies from July to October switch to 2:1 at end of Sept. Apigaurd mite treatment first 2.5 weeks of August and OAV in Novemeber. They were mostly in double 10 frame deeps by then. I had 38 of 40 colonies make it through winter in WV. Needs to be a couple gallon a week though. I'd also recommend he switch to Global patties with the biologix "rocket fuel" its soft and smaller colonies can process it faster to keep it from becoming slimed with beetle larvae.
@@user-fx7kk8il6b what's wrong?
Thanks for advice. 800 frames?! I’m glad to hear it’s possible, I’m going to do very little splitting the rest of the year and focus on growing and drawing out that foundation.
@JaredBeekeeping yes sir it took a lot of 1:1 but I even had them building comb in October on 2:1. I put 1lb of pollen patty on them late in Sept so that kept them wanting to build brood and cycled in foundations.
Like your plan it's a good idea. I have found with my hives that are always grumpy with me going into them I tried putting my be sut into a bag and smoke it up in the bag before I put it on and I find that tend to want to stay away more.
Great video! I’m on a very similar journey with my bees. Keep up the good work looking forward to seeing your success!
Thanks Mike! Good luck with your bees!
You can get too greedy and splitting after the flow is over is extra hard. Best to split right before the flow, so food is plentiful for everything else out there also. Plus, the pest like small hive beetles love invading small weak mating nucs. Best to be patient and split once in early spring. Best of luck.👍
I❤ the truth,100 % correct
I enjoyed watching your video, you seem humble and enjoyable to be around. I'm a new bee keeper too, on my 3rd year. I have noticed if you want comb drawn keep the syrup to em but make sure they're taking it so it doesn't ferment. I have learned that quality is worth more than quantity. Get a old crock pot and a roller for the foundation thats old.
Also where are you located? I'm from caldwell county NC but live in caldwell county texas now.
Bob binnie recommended adding a few drops bleach to preserve life of sugar water, also I emulsify some wintergreen and thyme essential oil to help fight mites and hinder mold. Fat bee man has some videos on emulsify mix. I'm very impressed with your geter dun mindset
Thanks for the tips Richard! I’m in Muddy pond TN.
Good work getting all the splits made and going.
I would bet that the queen cells that got destroyed were killed by a queen that hatched earlier than you had planed.
I hope that the sourwood honey flow is good to you and the splits.
Thanks. Unfortunately the sourwood flow isn’t great this year in my area but winged sumac is about to bloom and we have tons of it, so I’m hoping to fill several supers!
Hi Jared, love your video's, a fellow beekeeper from far far away in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧. I too am trying to build a life being a keeper of the bees, would be awesome to ask you some questions and things about your journey to share with the uk 🇬🇧 big 💛 Happybees Honey 🍯
Your jar feeders have too little access for them to get it fast and need to store it. You’re slow feeding them like a maintenance level of feed not a fast feed building level of feed. Frame feeders or bucket feeders with a large area screen feeder. They need lots of access to the feed to mimic a heavy nectar flow to get them to build storage cells.
They build plastic foundation much better if it’s heavily coated with wax. You can melt it and apply with a foam roller or just mash a bunch of stray removed comb into a ball and rub it onto the foundations. They will rework the excess wax in the grid of the foundation.
It takes bees to make bees. A small population can only feed and warm so much brood. As population grows then they can care for more brood.
It’s hard and fun trying to get bugs to do what you want them to do.
Thanks for the tips Rick.I wish had the wax, it was dumb looking back now but I sold all my wax last fall.
Yes it is, Not to mention having to kill bug (Varroa) on a bug.
@@JaredBeekeeping 😂. Sometimes you got to pay up and be humble. A humble bumble. Go get your wax back. No shame in paying double ⏩. Every man deserves some profit.
Good job, just keep trying and you will learn what methods work the best in your area and for you. I do the same thing.
Nice update,just a suggestion,with the splits you can really wack the mites,and make sure to feed up good in the fall . 👍
That’s right! I’m fixing to oxalic vaporize this week. Before my splits have capped brood. Thanks Jay
I add a frame of brood and some resources to my nucs so that when they hatch out they have the wax of those youngsters to draw with, it saves time waiting for the queens own brood to hatch out, I also wax the plastic foundation of the new frames preferably with new white wax just to give them a start.
You are really getting after it. I applaud your drive and determination. I only have two hives and would like to get to ten in the next two years. There is a big difference between a hobbyist and a professional! I think you will do great.
@@user-fx7kk8il6b joking with respect to what? Please provide clarification. Thanks.
Thanks for the encouragement John!
@@JaredBeekeeping You have encouraged me! Stay the course.
Nice Video ! 👍
I don't like any / or use Foundation in my Hives. I use all Tension Wired Frames (Horizontally.) and add a BBQ Skewer stapled to the under Top Frame Bar. And drizzle a little of my own melted Burr / Or Older Dark Comb. Thats the Guide or Starter Strip Bees use. By adding a 'empty' frame between last Years Comb, means after say x3 Years or so, you can replace old with new, and use the Melt Wax Pot to aid the next Seasons Comb. Win, win.
The Bees will make lovely Natural Comb (that as its strengthened by those Wires, can be Extracted with no blown out Elements.)
Here in Scotland 🏴 our Bees have a Short but very busy Season. They build Comb real fast in early Spring. So get next Years Comb made in this Years Bee Season.
To much Commercial Comb / Plastic Comb, thats Coated in Wax, I'm sure has a lot of Residual Pesticides / or build up of some of the older Varroa Mite Miticides in them too. Go Home Grown do 'Au Natural', and your Colonies will build up Healthy and super Strong.
I'm only a Hobby Beek. Started the Season with x4 Over-Wintered Colonies. And now have x12. Have not had to feed any of them until now (Nucs mainly) as I prefer to grow Brood and Bees over Honey Harvest. Bees made now, that are Strong and Healthy, will survive a Winter no problem. Breed in the Summer, to be your Honey Makers next Spring ! 😉
Its poor levels of Nutrition and Hive moisture that kills Colonies.
One style of Hive I have : the French Warre Hive, do suggest to 'take' any Honey only when Spring has come properly. Eg Honey made (last year) is left until Winter has passed, to then 'take' a Honey Crop !
The French Abbot who invented them : took his Skills from watching Nature.
Good luck with your Venture !
Also good Varroa Mite prevention, minimum of x4 different ones through the Year will mean your Bees will thrive too. Eg : Splits, Frame Cage Queen, Apiguard (Thymol) Oxalic Acid are examples of the more 'natural' but successful ways to rid of VM. Agri/Pharma Varroa products are leaving to much build up in Wax these days. And I'm sure become less effective over prolonged use.
Only my stance, but my Bees survive and if any Re-Queen with young Queens, that assists the Hives too. Strong Queen: Great Brood. Super Strong Colony. 😎
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Happy Beekeeping 2023
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Foundation does not go without syrup. Just feed them a lot. Good luck and happy beekeeping!!!
Thanks!
What we used to do when we had a really hot Hive back when I used to work commercial beekeeping was to put a little bit of fresh horse manure and a hot smoker my boss said that that would create something that was like laughing gas that would definitely make the bees more calm. I have always done that whenever I could get something like that.. those bees were definitely Africanized and I have dealt with that same problem whenever I came back from California with my hives. It took me a long time and making a lot of small divides to finally get my bees to where I can work them without gloves
Swarm trapping love it onlly way to go if ya get a good large one the better 30 long hives also good for splits 40 frame are good as back up.
Great Videos The Quicker You Get Away From Gloves The More You Will Enjoy Your Bees
Not with nasty bees you won’t, nasty bees know exactly where to nail you , until his hives have good queens in them he should stay with the gloves or his hands are going to be stung the crap out of , I know I had nasty bees I know what they do ,maybe you should try some nasty bees and see for yourself.
Going to have to break down and start bucket feeding to boost drawing comb
Maybe keep some larger colonies just for drawing comb to use on your other hives.
Enjoying the process.
I’m fixing to get some buckets, thanks.
24:39 love your idea on the splitter!
Jared if you can get your hands on some carnie queens I recommend them , they are calm and the queens lay up the hives very good , I got Italians to and the majority or them get nasty ,I really like the carnolian queens myself.
yes, your frames should be balanced/centered in each box. that will avoid the wall comb
You’re doing great - carry on!!!
Thanks!
The bees wont draw out the comb until there are enough bees and there's a flow on no matter what the foundation including pure wax foundation. I use both and nothing will be drawn until they need to work on it. Once there's a flow on they'll have to put the honey someplace and they'll use plastic but it's best to have it ready to go by coating it with wax first. That's hard to do when you're starting out because you don't have spare wax so possibly use pure wax or strips to start?
The other thing I did and may work for you is continue with the nucs on top of the hives but do it slightly differently.
Place an excluder over the bottom box. Bring up some shaken brood into the nucs, Shake them to make sure there's no queen on the frames. The nurse bees will move up to take care of the brood. If there are enough bees to keep it warm enough you can relocate the nuc at this point and Introduce the queen cell at this stage.
If the numbers are low and you need the warmth leave them above the excluder and introduce the queen cell in the nucs still above the excluder. You'll need a small entrance in the nucs in this case of course.
The queens will mate and start laying and you can then do the usual thing with a nuc from that point.
You can keep doing this as long as the donor hives are strong enough to allow.
I watched the same Bob Benni video. But maybe 20 times .. before my first graph
Either decal or paint different patterns on hives so bees know which hives are theres. Also place legs on hives or bases, submerged in water to keep unwanted insects from climbing Into hives, even possibly rodents. Keep up good work. Also, let hives have a chance to grow before splitting... giving them strength. Too much sugar water can possibly weaken hives strength.
Sugar water does not weaken a hive. If you use a 1 to1 sugar water mix, the bees will draw out wax much quicker And if you're getting ready to go into winter and you wanna beef up their food supply for the winter, use a 2 to 1 or. Stronger mix so they can put on weight. For the winter, it won't take as long to dry it out to make a sugar water, honey. You cannot sell sugar water, honey. But if you want to use it to sweeten your 17:46 coffee, it's good for that but it doesn't impart any antibiotics or anti allergenic properties. That is why you cannot sell sugar water honey And sugar water syrup will not make the bees any less bees. If there is a flow on, they will go after the flow as opposed to the Sugar, water syrup.
If there is a flow on. They will go after nectar much faster than they will. The sugar water syrup.
Awesome job keep up with your bees.
Thanks, will do!
Once the bees build up in numbers they will build comb like crazy if you feed them. When that capped brood frame emerges thats several thousand bees each.
I was hoping to finish this year on 50 hives but the scottish summer weather didn't appear this year 😂 think its going to be around 30 hives, not having drawn out comb is a big disadvantage.
Good luck brother!
Also I've been rubbing a block of fresh wax on each plastic frame as I find them not building correctly on-site. 3/4" starter strips with fishing string woven thru holes seems to be their preference, they build from top to bottom in a round formation both sides as they build, I'm surprised they even build on one side of our foundations....that kinda goes against their nature of how they build
I'm not very useful, but it makes me happy seeing so many helpful comments
Yes The beekeeping community has been awesome!
Once you add wax, they will draw off of it right away just about, I use a propane torch with bar wax and rub it in, it works amazing and is pretty fast.
Good luck, bro. I often wish I could go full-time but it just doesn't make sense for me.
great video man! I thought I was doing good with going from 3 to 18 this season. kudo's!!
Thanks. You are doing good!
very cool man keep it up!
Thanks!
Move a frame of brood into the top box and that will draw the bees up into the top box..
You are correct if your frames are that old it does need to be refreshed with wax . You will see a lot of difference. When I
Purchase new frames I automatically right off the bat rewax all my frames
I don’t have any wax but I did refresh a bunch of foundation with heat on Saturday, I hope it does the trick!
@@JaredBeekeeping stop being such a sissy boy saying I don't have wax I don't have wax I don't have wax 😭. Just go buy some and put it on
37:50 Looks like you missed a queen cell somewhere. Virgin queen emerged and terminated the competition.
Just a suggestion try spraying syrup on the foundation to help them draw
What do you do next after having queen cells on Nicot frame? Do you remove one cell and place it on a frame in a queen less hive? Thanks for sharing
Yes, exactly👍
Pest control tricks: cinnamon sprinkle around hive prevents ants, soft peppermint sticks broke up in hive deters hive beetles
At 28.00min your cell builder hive doesn’t appear to be strong enough to build the number of cells you grafted. Spring isn’t far away down here in New Zealand. Just starting to check some of my hives, looking good so far and brood is building up nicely
Yes. space them evenly.
Hello Jared beekeeping, Many thanks for making these videos.
I am following with great interest as you are doing what I have been wanting to do with my bees.
May I ask, what is your end goal, is it so you can produce loads of honey next season or to sell strong colonies to other bee keepers or something different. Again may thanks and looking forward to seeing more videos.
My goal right now is to sell nucleus colonies in the spring but long term I also want to produce loads of honey. Thanks John!
@@JaredBeekeeping Many thanks for your reply. If I had payed attention, in the first video you did say what you have planned. It was a joy to go back and re watch the previous videos.
Thanks again John a subscriber from the UK.
Always roll new wax on new frams, if you want faster draw out time.
15:50 in my hives I space evenly to avoid burr comb. On the sides, not between frames.
Queens will only lay as many eggs as the colony care care for. Meaning you have to have the population to care for brood and forage, liquid feed as you have been doing but also pollen. Brood can not develop without the protein. Slaps some patties in there. Hope you reach your goals
At 37.50 you had a queen emerge early or a rouge queen above the excluder and she tore down the cells.
Not sure if I would be comfortable using pressure treated wood for anything that the bees are exposed to
38:06 It's too late in the season that's why they've broken the cells now they're focusing on stocking up for the winter.
greetings from a Ukrainian beekeeper
Hi Brother
I’m not sure why they start ripping the cells down but it happens to me as well. I pull my cells after day 5 or 6 after the cells are drawn and put them in a finisher or more likely my incubator. I then give the cell builder another graft. You can probably get 3 grafts out of a real strong cell builder. The second graft tends to be stronger. Good luck. Your doing a great a job.
Thanks Archie, I’m definitely going to look into getting or building an incubator.
Awesome job with the bees. I may have missed it but did you say you were in Tennessee? What area?
Thanks! Muddy Pond TN.
Checkerboard into brood next time. And keep them with syrup and patties. Bee fit chick is cute, but does not know much about bees.....
I think they recommend not putting grafted bars in a hive with old bees, they recommend young bees to prevent them tearing down cells.....but your definitely doing better than me, im still running behind on grafting:)
Thanks for all the advice Scott, very helpful!
Where are you located? Trying to see if a similar timeline would work in eastern Wa. Thanks…
Muddy Pond TN!
@@JaredBeekeeping ok, so it may be a bit harder to do here bc of the shorter season. Thanks for the info! Please keep making videos about your journey. Very informative and helpful!
Where you located, Jared? You’re an inspiration!
Thanks! I’m in Muddy Pond Tennessee
You have your first frost in april? Where are you? Australia lol?
Sounds like they're still pretty feisty. What's your sugar water ratio mix?
1:1
Do you have 4 frame nucs on top of 10 frame hives? Where are you getting 4 framers? If you got one that draws comb then keep taking from it and exchanging foundation and let it draw all your wax for you.
That’s correct, I built the 4 frame boxes to set on top but I’ve seen them for sale at bee supply stores.
My bees draw more comb when using frame feeders rather than jar feeders. Good video.
@@user-fx7kk8il6b it's not b/c its more syrup it's because they have easier access to the syrup in greater numbers duh!.
I had too much bee death in mine. I'd say your right, but I switched to the pales and have not noticed a difference. I'm also using heavy wax frames from Premier.
Good to know! Thanks
great video . I like nitrile gloves as they still let you have dexterity and even though the bees could sting through them they don't regard nitrile as a living thing so do try to sting it, they are also better at cutting down the spread of diseases between hives if you replace them alot . I find smoking hot hives is the only thing that calms them mean buggers down.
Thanks, yeah I’m liking my new latex gloves, only they get pretty hot.
@@JaredBeekeepingI've got some gloves I want you to try! Good video. Stick with it!
36:31 how do you make new Queens with open swarm cells if they're open and not capped they're going to be dead one way or another. Either they wont mature if not capped or it means another queen attacked them already.
You can use cells that haven’t been finished/capped yet and the bees in the split will finish them.
@@JaredBeekeeping oh neat
Can't tell from the video but the foundation you were looking at at about 8 minutes looked lacking in wax. The stuff you buy that claims to be pre-waxed varies wildly in quality. You might try squashing the crazy comb that the bees are building rather than scraping it off. If you do that and spread it around they aren't losing the wax they did produce and the foundation is getting better coverage for them to pull from.
Thank you. You need to make more videos
Thanks Jessica, I’m gonna try.
Why have you not planning any pollinating plants for them to keep them happy that might help you
The second double nuc looked good to me. All that brood, in a few days you will have a lot more bees. If you are worried about the foundation, just redcoat with melted bees wax. I've bough some plastic foundation a while ago and they ignored it until I put wax one them. I kinda feel like they didn't coat it at the factory. Good on you going for it! That is a lot of expansion. Pretty soon, you will need a crew.
Yeah, when those slabs of bees emerge, he is gonna have some strength for sure.
Thanks for the tips! I refreshed a bunch of foundation with heat on Saturday and smells like fresh wax again so I’m hoping it works.
It costs the bees honey to build comb. 6 to 8 pounds of honey for 1 pound of comb.
you said your queen cells were capped on day 5. is that day 5 from when you grafted them? an egg turns into a larva after 3 days, and is then capped on day 8 from being layed. so that math works out that they were all capped the day you came back to switch around the starter/finisher.
I think you did not have enough Pollen for them to rear more brood earlier on.
Harbire freight table saw. $100 bucks, not great but gets job done.😊
Love harbor freight!
Awesome video!! Where did you get those gloves from?
Thanks Gary! amzn.to/3DqWJTp
Thank you for the link!
Jared, what is the material you use for the top lid? Is it plywood?
It’s flooring for shed floors, kinda like Advantec.
It’s scraps that I collect from work
with new colonys, feeding helps them grow. Pollen paddies and sugar water. it takes longer to get a virgin mated and laying, two weeks to a month to get them going mostly. its down time for the colony sadly, smiles. keep watching Bob B. and Randy, you cant go wrong. smiles. cowhide seems to attract bee stings more that sheepskin. I am a small guy too. only run about 14-18, I am retired. your doing great. feed early in the spring and check them during the winter for food and use candy boards. over winter dead outs are starving alot. Double screen boards for wintering is excellant also, Bob makes some good ones. easy to build with your talent tooooo,
Hi-alive works well for winter feed.
Hello, don't spread your 4 fframes evenly, use a division board in each box,.
when looking through your hives, you can remove the division board first, without crushing comb and bees, which gives room to remove each frame easily. This will not upset your bees so much.
Kind regards,
Tony Marsh.
Thanks Tony, that sounds like a great idea.
Hello brother, how can i connect with you
37:47 Your cells got smoked by a queen, normal bees won't do this, either the original queen got to them somehow, more likely one hatched early and destroyed the competition, or maybe a random queen flew into your hive. Did you lose the original queen in the graft donor hive? Nice work btw, and your not the only one to use frames with old comb, the company I work for did the same with the same results of most frames being left or burr combed up.
On your gloves use goatskin gloves cowhide gloves pisses them off
did you feed pollen patty's along with 1 to 1 and you should only checkerboard honey supers not brood chambers never split the brood up. what about mites
Jared, where are you located? Ky?
Muddy Pond Tennessee
nice natural 🐝 friendly 🌲line!! why your 🐝 out in the full 🌞 in middle of a empty feild¿ I'd be 🥵 n 😡 too if you left me out there 😂
Where are you located
Muddy pond Tennessee
Your queens could’ve been mated to drones with bad genetics you are going to create drone yards with good calm 🧬 , that will help you move towards having more gentle hives.
Wehre Nica I subscrebel Yours Video Josef XX
To draw comb they should be going through a gallon of less than 1:1 every few days. Not quarts a week.
Thanks, I’ll try some frame feeders and see what they do.
Your apiary looks like mine, running down a hill.