Mantis Tiller won't start, maybe this is why???
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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This video may spark some controversy three different plugs for the same tiller.
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I thought I was the only one going crazy with the motor. The tip of not pumping fuel makes sense. I have my machine working now. these are all the things I have done (without success to get the motor going)
1. cleaned air filter
1b. replaced the oil
2. replaced carburetor (After market and OEM)
3. removed muffler and cleaned it
4. replaced spark plug (aftermarket)
5. replaced fuel filter
6. replaced black fuel inlet hose
7. blew out the refutrn (clear hose) fuel line
8. removed valve cover and sprayed carburetor cleaner into inlet and exhaust valves - carbon buildup
9. removed the ground wired (eliminate the switch being the problem)
10. removed the alternator/electrol and sanded down the contacts
11. check the spark of the plug (outside of the cyclider)
12. greased the transmission (I have the honda FG110 but same motor) - thinking that the stiff transmission is causing the issue)
Just when I was about to throw in the towel and order another motor, I did the following to get it to work
1. removed the valve cover and adjusted the valve clearance (0.08mm for fuel and .0.11mm for exhaust). Both were off.
2 used NGK plug (checked gap also)
3. did NOT push the fuel dome but just pull the cord
The sound of music happened..,...
Note: I did find the gap on aftermarket was off but didnt retest after adjustment.
Machine started like the way it is supposed to be. Now, I need to till the soil.
In the event this didn't work for you, my other option was check compression. This was my last option as the machine worked when I bought it. Also, it wasn't heavily used. If compression was off, then it is the end of the road for this motor.....
Hopefully you won't have the same issues I encountered but this is a compilation of hours of videos I have watched from Steve Small Engine Saloon (many thanks) and others......
I’m going to try a new spark plug. Mine will start but will not stay running. What size socket do I need? I sincerely hate this thing. I have a Husqvarna weed trimmer that starts every Spring. 2 pumps on the primer bulb and it starts every time. For the last 8 years!!!! The Mantis tiller is junk in my opinion. Never again. Should’ve bought the Honda rotor tiller I was looking at. Lesson learned.
I have to agree those Hondas are homeowner friendly.
Agreed, Mantis tillers are so temperamental every single year. Very expensive piece of junk. Never again!
What would sitting in a hot car for a while do to the tiller to make it not start? Tried to use it for the first time this year. Wouldn't start. Took it to the shop where the guy didn't do anything other than just start it up - 3x. He thought it was flooded, although it looked like every video I've seen looks like -the bulb was filled with gas, which is what the videos say to do, but which is how he said he knew it was flooded. Anyway, he started it right up. Took it home and let it sit in the car overnight until about 1 pm the next day, when the temp outside was 87. Tried starting it intermittently in they yard for about 2 hours after taking it out of the car - nothing, no matter how we tried - choke in, choke out, etc. Could it sitting in a hot car for a few hours do anything to make it not start?
This is only a guess. Maybe the heat inside the car made the tank swell thus pushing fuel inside the carburetor so much that it leaked inside the cylinder where it made the spark plug wet and it would not fire up? Did anyone notice unburned fuel coming out the exhaust?
@@Neighborhoodgo2guy Nope. Nothing. And then when in the AC'd house for at least 3 hours, it still doesn't start. Also, I just was watching a RUclips video that said the spark plug WASN'T wet, which meant it wasn't getting any gas. You say just the opposite, wet means it won't start. Don't know anything about this stuff, so that's really confusing. Anyway, it always sounds like it wants to turn over, just never does. Going back to the shop, again, on Monday.
Well, figured it out. Heat in the car has nothing to do with it not starting. Apparently, according to the repair guy, that prime or purge bulb isn't to be pushed a whole bunch of times because that will flood it. He says if it's filled with gas that means it's flooded. He pulled the spark plug and it was all wet. He put in a new one and it was hard starting but it finally did - and proceeded to blow out a ton of gas. He said that's because it's flooded.
So I get it home and after a number of tries over about an hour, it finally starts. But it won't start a couple hours after shutting it off. So I pull the spark plug and it's wet. I put another dry one in and it starts right up. So I dry the one I took out, put that one in, and it starts right up.
So here's how I now treat it: If it doesn't start, I pull the spark plug. If it's wet I dry the hole it goes in and put another dry one in. I keep 2 spark plugs for this reason. I probably could just dry the one off and use that, but I'd rather put one in that's been sitting around and I KNOW is really dry.
Now the repair guy says not to listen to the Mantis videos, even from Mantis itself, about pushing that prime/purge bulb. He said NOT TO TOUCH IT because the more you push it the more it it will flood and get the spark plug wet and THAT'S why it won't start. And he proved it by pulling the spark plug, and it was wet. He put a dry on in and it took a few tries to start it (because it was flooded) but it finally did - and it proceeded to blow a ton of gas out all over the place. He said, that's because it was flooded.
The problem I think will be next year after draining the fuel and having to use that primer/purge button to see if it floods and if I have to go through this routine again. But at least I now know how to get it started - after not being able to use it all of last year and part of this year I thought I'd have to throw out this over $400 machine.
Thank you for this detailed response! But I have to agree to disagree with the repair guy. In regards to pushing the purge bulb. I agree that if you press too many times it will indeed go into the cylinder and thus make the spark plug wet. If there is no fuel inside the carburetor at first startup you will not get the machine started. The way the purge bulb works is it sucks fuel from the tank into the carburetor then whatever's left over should get pumped back into the tank. A primer bulb sucks fuel into the carburetor and doesn't have a return line back to the tank. There's a metering diaphragm on the inside of the carburetor if that's out of adjustment it could allow excess fuel into the machine or the needle and seat that works on tandem with the metering diaphragm could be bad also creating extra fuel going into the machine. At any rate dumping unused fuel after the season is a great idea and now you know what to do next year! Thanks again sharing.
@@Neighborhoodgo2guy Problem is EVERY video I've watched on this tiller, whether of a regular person or from Mantis itself, says to push that purge bulb at least 6x and then twice more after that. That's how it gets flooded. Seems like they just make it worse by posting that kind of stuff?
Yeah I tried both plugs and nothing, put a spark tester on it and it’s
Working. I have the same issue as him. Nothing
These are so easy to work on but seem to always need worked on , so you've tried adding fuel directly into the carburetor with the air filter off? And it doesn't want to start? Sometimes you can get a false reading from the spark plug meaning the ignition coil could be going bad or is already? Keep me posted, if I can assist I'll try.
@@Neighborhoodgo2guy2:42
Jane of all Trades here...
Been bumbling my way through all sorts of trouble shooting videos... Have a mantis that'll start up fairly easily but will not stay on. Either dies right away or I can rev it up a few seconds before it just bogs down and dies. It wont idle either. Anytime I try I can hear it slowing down and then quickly dies. It all seems mechanically sound, all 3 adjustment screws are WAY out of whack. I have no clue where the sweet spot for any of them should be at. Could something as simple as these screws being out of tune, cause it to die after starting?
Yes, correct adjustment of the screws is important! But first, why did the screws get adjusted? If you were having issues before the adjustments then that needs figured out. Locate the High and Low screw on the carburetor and turn them all the way in but not too tight. Then back them both off 1 full turn. Try starting, then keep adjusting between one and two full turns. If you can get it to run adjust the H screw first by squeezing the throttle and turning the screw in or out, you might need a helper with that?, Listen to the engine turn out the H screw until it sounds like it's idling down then turn it back in slightly your H screw should be set. Next your L screw turn it in or out you're looking for a snappy throttle response. Once that's found adjust your idle screw. If you can't get anything to work most likely it's something else that needs diagnosed. Dirty carb, stiff metering diaphragm, bad fuel lines or fuel filter, spark plug, compression, scored cylinder, plugged exhaust, etc. Good luck
@@Neighborhoodgo2guy Thank you! I watched the guy who's tiller this is go to town on those screws until he threw his hands up and gave up on it. And this was last spring... Atleast then it was running fine I thought but he kept messing with the screws trying to I guess get it to sound right? It ran fine and wouldnt die when he was messing around with it. Which is why I'm suspecting the screws being a main culprit as to why I'm having a hard time with it.
Thanks again. Will give these screws another go today and hopefully be able to get some stuff tilled this week.
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My recoil is difficult to pull to the point where I need to wear a glove to protect my hand. Almost feels like it has high compression by the way it jerks when turning over. Any thoughts?
Well more compression is better then less, unfortunately it's taking a toll on your hand. If you're able take off the cover and pull on the string detached from the machine, see if that's the culprit, then work your way down, prop the tiller up so you can try spinning the flywheel as if you were acting as the pull cord. See if anything is preventing it from spinning. One thought that comes to mind is maybe one of the ignition coil bolts loosened and it's sticking permanently on the flywheel? Then if it all checks out you may want to inspect the valves. Or take it somewhere to be checked out.
@@Neighborhoodgo2guy thank you, it acts similar to my Stihl four mix engine before I adjusted the valves on it. I didn't know this two cycle older mantis engine would have adjustable valves?