Enjoy your videos helped me with my last blade quenched in water for a couple of seconds then parks 50 with W2 turned out great. Now the work with the hand sanding.
Excellent video. I an iaidoka and just beginning to make my first blade (a tanto) your series both for tanto and katana are full of brilliantly explained steps and reasonings. I hope you produce more in the future. Would love to buy some of your W2 but unfortunately I'm in Scotland and the postage is twice the price if the steel. Keep up the good work 👍
Can i use ordinary clay??? Why Japanese applying clay on their katana..what is the purpose?? Are Japanese using oil quenching or just water quenching method???
1) No, ordinary clay will shrink, crack, and fall off as it dries. 2) The clay prevents parts of the blade from hardening as quickly and thoroughly, producing a blade with a hard cutting edge, but a more elastic spine edge. It also produces a foggy line in the metal called a "hamon". 3) Traditional Japanese technique is water quenching.
I have tried your "clay mix" recipe. I cannot keep the clay from drying too fast and cracking. I have tried thinner mix and thicker mix. I've tried drying it in the forge, outside of the forge outdoors and drying it indoors. Nothing that I try keeps it from cracking. Any advice?
I really don't know about materials of metals. But i just want to know about What do you think of sae 52100 chrome steel, or that kind of metal bearings are made of? Are they good for making a sword or a knife?
I'm sorry, but I don't know that much about alloy steel. I know that alloying steel dramatically changes its properties and requires different heat treating methods.
Hey, great video; really like the way you present your work! I have one question: Why have you oxidized the surface layer of the blade before applying the clay mixture? I haven't watched all of your videos yet, so I don't know if you already explained it :)
I did it once as a way of making sure the blade was as clean as possible, and I found that the clay stuck to the blade MUCH better. So I kept doing it.
I don't quite understand the purpose of the iron oxide. Is it an anti scale? And i was under the impression that large scratches (like the ones left by files), while leaving a great surface for clay to adhere to also give cracks a place to start?
To be honest, I can't say 100% for sure. I tried it once years ago because someone suggested it, and I found that my clay mixture worked better. It stuck to the blade better and survived the quench better. In this particular case it began to fall off after the first dip, and only about half of it survived the whole quenching process, but with previous blades I've made, almost 100% of it remained on the blade and had to be physically scraped off later, and the hamon was spectacular. It has worked well for me for years, so I do it, even though I can't give a scientific explanation of what it does. Regarding scratches on the blade, I think your blade would have to be very thin in order for file marks to lead to cracks. Even with the file marks I purposefully create, and even with harsh water quenching, I crack very few blades. I believe this is because I leave a nice, robust cutting edge (2mm minimum).
The tanto is looking great and the hamon came in very nicely! I myself have never used T10 but I have been doing some research on it lately. Have you ever used T10 and if so what are your thoughts on it?
I have never used T10, but I have heard it is good. I have mostly used W1 drill rod, 1095 bar, and W2 bar. I can't say I know much about the nitty gritty of T10. If you decide to use it, I'd love to hear what you think of it.
For Japanese style blades, made in the traditional fashion, I recommend plain high carbon steel. If you're a beginner, 1045/1050/1055 are fine. They're easy to work with and less likely to crack when quenching. Not the best hamon, not the best edge holding, but good for beginners. Once you have more experience, higher carbon: W1, W2, 1095, T10. Better edge holding, nicer hamon, but more likely to crack during quench. I sell custom W2, which I feel is the king of high carbon steel. You can find links to buy my W2 in the description.
Yes, I clay both sides, and since claying affects crystal structure, I try to create a similar pattern on both sides so I get similar expansion of steel during quenching. I don't know if this makes much difference, but it's what I do.
Continue with tempering at 205 C (400 F). Then, remove the blade from the oven, and while it is still 205 C, before it cools, you can straighten it by bending it carefully using a vise and tongs. This is easy to do while it is still hot. In fact, you can even hammer the spine edge a little while it is still hot from tempering. Don't hammer near the cutting edge, though. All of my blades warp laterally during the quench. I have to straighten all of my blades this way after tempering. It is normal. I use a vise and tongs to bend a little, and I hammer the spine edge to perfect the straightening.
@@rumahmanten2462 No. Bending the blade after tempering will not hurt the hamon. Only two things can hurt the hamon: 1) Heating too much when tempering. The hamon is created by heating and quenching. If you heat too much during tempering, you can ruin the hamon. Only temper at 205 C for one hour, no more. For a knife you can use your kitchen oven. 2) Too much polishing. The hamon exists in the surface of the metal. If you grind away the surface metal, you lose the hamon. I have never had this problem, but I know that old blades that have been sharpened many times lose their hamon. But you can't hurt the hamon by bending the blade or hammering on the spine edge. And if you temper at the correct temperature, you won't hurt the hamon.
Rare to see someone make a real water quenched hamon. Now everyone makes fake curve damascus katanas and it pains me to see them just beat the curve in with a hammer instead of clay quenching like it should be done to call a katana and no a look-like katana.
Thank you! Just so you know, Japanese sword masters do forge katanas with some curve before the quench. It is a bit of a myth that the curve is 100% the result of the quench.
I just wanna say that i used your method with red clay and metal filings and it turned out amazing, thank you
I'm so happy to hear it worked for you!
Enjoy your videos helped me with my last blade quenched in water for a couple of seconds then parks 50 with W2 turned out great. Now the work with the hand sanding.
Thanks! Good luck with your project! What are you making?
Excellent video. I an iaidoka and just beginning to make my first blade (a tanto) your series both for tanto and katana are full of brilliantly explained steps and reasonings. I hope you produce more in the future. Would love to buy some of your W2 but unfortunately I'm in Scotland and the postage is twice the price if the steel. Keep up the good work 👍
you deserve more subs my dude. keep up the good work
Thank you!
Can i use ordinary clay??? Why Japanese applying clay on their katana..what is the purpose?? Are Japanese using oil quenching or just water quenching method???
1) No, ordinary clay will shrink, crack, and fall off as it dries. 2) The clay prevents parts of the blade from hardening as quickly and thoroughly, producing a blade with a hard cutting edge, but a more elastic spine edge. It also produces a foggy line in the metal called a "hamon". 3) Traditional Japanese technique is water quenching.
very good video, i'm brazilian, i appreciate the information 🇧🇷❤️
brasileiro tbm
I have tried your "clay mix" recipe. I cannot keep the clay from drying too fast and cracking. I have tried thinner mix and thicker mix. I've tried drying it in the forge, outside of the forge outdoors and drying it indoors. Nothing that I try keeps it from cracking. Any advice?
@@PourMeAnother Sorry. No idea. I've never had that problem. I'd try a different brand of refractory cement or mortar.
@@oldpuebloforge I added a little sand and it all held together. It turned out amazing!! I will be buying more of your W2 soon
After watching that I think I need quenching too.
Can you provide a link to the furnace cement you use? Is this the same as refractory mortar?
It is the same. And I bought it a long time ago, so I have no link. Sorry.
hi, i got the part where u use furnace cement as it has high heat ressistant. but what does the iron oxide do?
Partly it decreases the shrinkage of the cement as it dries, making it less likely to crack and flake off. Partly I just like the color.
I really don't know about materials of metals. But i just want to know about What do you think of sae 52100 chrome steel, or that kind of metal bearings are made of? Are they good for making a sword or a knife?
I'm sorry, but I don't know that much about alloy steel. I know that alloying steel dramatically changes its properties and requires different heat treating methods.
Hey, great video; really like the way you present your work! I have one question: Why have you oxidized the surface layer of the blade before applying the clay mixture? I haven't watched all of your videos yet, so I don't know if you already explained it :)
I did it once as a way of making sure the blade was as clean as possible, and I found that the clay stuck to the blade MUCH better. So I kept doing it.
Hey I saw you said you were selling w2 steel, I know this video is old but I was wondering if you still had some for sale
I do. I've had problems with Amazon, but I've got them worked out. I'll be posting a video about that today or tomorrow.
Here's the link to my new listing on Amazon. W2 Steel Flat Barstock | 12x1.5x5/16 | Knife Making a.co/d/a9SYmvc
when is the next video coming? so excited whats the hamon gonna look like
The hamon turned out AWESOME. Best one I've ever made. I'm editing the video now. Should be up in a couple days.
I don't quite understand the purpose of the iron oxide. Is it an anti scale?
And i was under the impression that large scratches (like the ones left by files), while leaving a great surface for clay to adhere to also give cracks a place to start?
To be honest, I can't say 100% for sure. I tried it once years ago because someone suggested it, and I found that my clay mixture worked better. It stuck to the blade better and survived the quench better. In this particular case it began to fall off after the first dip, and only about half of it survived the whole quenching process, but with previous blades I've made, almost 100% of it remained on the blade and had to be physically scraped off later, and the hamon was spectacular. It has worked well for me for years, so I do it, even though I can't give a scientific explanation of what it does.
Regarding scratches on the blade, I think your blade would have to be very thin in order for file marks to lead to cracks. Even with the file marks I purposefully create, and even with harsh water quenching, I crack very few blades. I believe this is because I leave a nice, robust cutting edge (2mm minimum).
The tanto is looking great and the hamon came in very nicely! I myself have never used T10 but I have been doing some research on it lately. Have you ever used T10 and if so what are your thoughts on it?
I have never used T10, but I have heard it is good. I have mostly used W1 drill rod, 1095 bar, and W2 bar. I can't say I know much about the nitty gritty of T10. If you decide to use it, I'd love to hear what you think of it.
Do you add salt to the water?
Nope. Just regular tap water.
@@oldpuebloforge Thanks, cross your fingers for me!
Do you still have W2 blanks?
I don't have blanks, but bars. It's all in this video, links in the description: ruclips.net/video/wsjmWG2MucQ/видео.htmlsi=sOsc5d3kPhg0fnpg
Is there any specific type of steel that you recommend?
For Japanese style blades, made in the traditional fashion, I recommend plain high carbon steel. If you're a beginner, 1045/1050/1055 are fine. They're easy to work with and less likely to crack when quenching. Not the best hamon, not the best edge holding, but good for beginners. Once you have more experience, higher carbon: W1, W2, 1095, T10. Better edge holding, nicer hamon, but more likely to crack during quench. I sell custom W2, which I feel is the king of high carbon steel. You can find links to buy my W2 in the description.
stupid question but do you clay both sides?
Yes, I clay both sides, and since claying affects crystal structure, I try to create a similar pattern on both sides so I get similar expansion of steel during quenching. I don't know if this makes much difference, but it's what I do.
@@oldpuebloforge thank you .
Where is the finished polished blade?
I haven't polished it yet. Maybe I'll start that project tonight.
what should we do if the blade not stright enough after quenching?
Continue with tempering at 205 C (400 F). Then, remove the blade from the oven, and while it is still 205 C, before it cools, you can straighten it by bending it carefully using a vise and tongs. This is easy to do while it is still hot. In fact, you can even hammer the spine edge a little while it is still hot from tempering. Don't hammer near the cutting edge, though.
All of my blades warp laterally during the quench. I have to straighten all of my blades this way after tempering. It is normal. I use a vise and tongs to bend a little, and I hammer the spine edge to perfect the straightening.
@@oldpuebloforge it didnt broke the hamon?
@@rumahmanten2462 No. Bending the blade after tempering will not hurt the hamon. Only two things can hurt the hamon: 1) Heating too much when tempering. The hamon is created by heating and quenching. If you heat too much during tempering, you can ruin the hamon. Only temper at 205 C for one hour, no more. For a knife you can use your kitchen oven. 2) Too much polishing. The hamon exists in the surface of the metal. If you grind away the surface metal, you lose the hamon. I have never had this problem, but I know that old blades that have been sharpened many times lose their hamon.
But you can't hurt the hamon by bending the blade or hammering on the spine edge. And if you temper at the correct temperature, you won't hurt the hamon.
@@oldpuebloforge thank you so much. GBU
@@rumahmanten2462 You are welcome, friend. Thank you for following my channel.
why do you heat the water?
Less of a shock to the steel. Colder water, more likelihood of cracking the blade.
@@oldpuebloforge now i understand. thank you.
whats a clay mix
I'm sorry, I don't understand your question.
@@oldpuebloforge your clay composition
3 parts furnace cement, 1 part red iron oxide.
@@oldpuebloforge furnace cement like a refractory cement?
Rare to see someone make a real water quenched hamon. Now everyone makes fake curve damascus katanas and it pains me to see them just beat the curve in with a hammer instead of clay quenching like it should be done to call a katana and no a look-like katana.
Thank you! Just so you know, Japanese sword masters do forge katanas with some curve before the quench. It is a bit of a myth that the curve is 100% the result of the quench.