Matt finishes - like with the AK primer - are less durable. While many of the painters prefer a matte finish to their display or competition pieces, for example, whether it's paint or primer, it will be less durable than a satin. If you are careful, your paints will "bite" to it nicely, but it can be less durable. Satin finish primers work great if you are doing the Artis Opus damp/drybrush method like in their RUclips videos.
I’ve had bad luck with the Vallejo airbrush primer. Scratched right off like the AK in this video. I’ve since switched to Stynylrez primer and have had great results straight out of the bottle.
It also depends on what plastic you apply it. I am testing Vallejo primer on white plastic spoons and testing different mixtures with the Vallejo thinner. It's not super durable, but not too bad. Biggest disadvantage, you can't sand it!
I have the AK 1st Gen primers, never even used yet, and I'm thinking of getting rid of them and just buy some Mr Hobby Aqueous primers. Don't like the smell and health risk of laquers, so gonna avoid those for as long as possible.
@@weekendhobbyistThere are very few actual reviews unfortunately. I found one for the rattlecan variants, and they perform really well. I have very good experience with Mr Aqueous (durable even without priming) so I'm pretty optimistic about their primers.
Me too! I had to double and triple check my results since I’ve had bad experience with Vallejo paints in the past. Thanks for watching and for the comment. 🙂
Like you, we always think the latest and greatest is somehow better. I too have these in my arsenal with the exception of Alacad which I don't even know what that is. The Vallejo paint sprays nicely for me and I love their war color kits. The Vallejo primer is the single worst primer I've ever used. I hate that stuff haha. Its like shooting liquid sand. I have AK gray and while I haven't tried it yet, professionals get the same garbage results you did. The winner is always Mr. Hobby and Tamiya. Tamiya's fine surface primer is Mr Hobby 1200 and their regular stuff I believe is Mr Hobby 500-800...can't remember. While fumey, Mr Hobby or Tamiya is the only way to go. Period.
I've moved away from lacquers because of the smell , but Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 (not pray can) gave a fantastic finish. I now use Stynylrez and once you get the air pressure/needle size combo working right for you it's really good. A little flow improver really helps too.
I've found Tamiya XF series pots to be my go to for priming plastic and resin models these days. Ive had numerous issues with vallejo, over rhe years, tried pro Acryl but was meh. They seem ro scratch off easily and constantly clog my airbrush.sincevusing tamiya never have a problem. Simply use 99% iso pro to fill a new bottle moat of the way and I'm golden
@@weekendhobbyist Thanks for the video, I've been using stylnylrez and looking to change to a different airbrush primer going to go with vallejo after watching this. My experience with the stynylrez was of the 3 bottles I got(black white grey) black was good but I had a real clogging issue, white was useable but I had to be very careful because it would crack fairly easily and the grey was completly unuseable. IDK if i just got bad bottles I heard if they get to cold it ruins them and I live in canada so who knows if they're stored properly or not, but not something I want to chance again unless I have similiar experiences with other brands. Thanks again for the tests.
I also can't get on with AK primer and expected more from them, I've tested it many ways but always got a bad result. Mr finishing primer is the complete opposite, it's so easy to work with almost like cheating;). Thanks for the video.
AK primer (though in my case gray) is the same for me. Very rough surface and can be scratched off. Good to know that it is not my lack of skill, but rather just the product that's crap.
Yes. Are you filling and sanding with the Surfacer 1000? Black 1500 is fine for metal paints but if you use a glossier base black it will look even better.
Hello, great comparison! I'm not sure if that's the right video to be asking this under, but I'd give it a shot. I'm preparing a microphone stand as a gift for a friend. It's printed out of ABS plastic. I want to paint it black. I've been sanding it for a while now using automotive filler spray and it's turning okay. I have a couple deeper grooves that I plan to fill with wood filler and sand them down, do you think that's a good idea, or should I look for a plastic filler instead? If you'd recommend plastic filler, do you have any specific products you'd recommend? I also plan to paint it black. Do you think I can just use Mr. Finishing Surface 1500 black and seal it with Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray? Sorry if that's not the right place to ask, you just seem like a knowledgeable person in this field.
Thanks for watching and the comment. I didn’t wash the spoons but did wipe them down thoroughly with an alcohol wipe. I wouldn’t shout at you 😆. That’s a very relevant question.
Because someone can't read the vallejo instructions - Shake 1 minute - spray continuously from side to side - use the small nozzle for most miniature stuff
I wouldn’t use water with it. Try the Vallejo thinner and the airbrush flow improver by Vallejo. These acrylics dry fast and primers are usually thicker. Have you had luck using water to thin Vallejo paints?
@@weekendhobbyist See if you can get your hands on some TITANS HOBBY Black Matt Primer. Its wonderful in summer, though not in the colder months. Maybe I sprayed too heavy, though I did not think I did. Ended up cracking. Does the MR finishing surface do this?
I didn’t thin my Alclad but I did thin the AK (not sure if I said the wrong thing in the video). I am super surprised by how easily some of these came off. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You may repeat the test with masking tape as it ripps off the vallejo pu primer when removing the tape. Vallejo is like a flexible film on the surface that does not stick sufficient on equal and smooth surfaces. It may be good for priming a figure but not for aircraft surfaces as fuselage or wings.
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Matt finishes - like with the AK primer - are less durable. While many of the painters prefer a matte finish to their display or competition pieces, for example, whether it's paint or primer, it will be less durable than a satin. If you are careful, your paints will "bite" to it nicely, but it can be less durable. Satin finish primers work great if you are doing the Artis Opus damp/drybrush method like in their RUclips videos.
I’ve had bad luck with the Vallejo airbrush primer. Scratched right off like the AK in this video. I’ve since switched to Stynylrez primer and have had great results straight out of the bottle.
Thanks. I’m glad I didn’t mess up my test.
Stynylrez contains Polyurethane, it will stick way better than non PU primers
Great video, and I agree with you. I have pretty much started using Mr. Hobby primers on all my builds.
Mr. Hobby and Tamiya Primers have never not-impressed me. 😊
same here, ak and av primer never work like I want, now I can make sure that is not my problem.
Thanks for confirming that I didn’t do anything wrong.
It also depends on what plastic you apply it. I am testing Vallejo primer on white plastic spoons and testing different mixtures with the Vallejo thinner. It's not super durable, but not too bad. Biggest disadvantage, you can't sand it!
Thanks for the info. Which mixtures are you using?
I have the AK 1st Gen primers, never even used yet, and I'm thinking of getting rid of them and just buy some Mr Hobby Aqueous primers. Don't like the smell and health risk of laquers, so gonna avoid those for as long as possible.
I haven’t tested those yet and would like to know how they perform.
@@weekendhobbyistThere are very few actual reviews unfortunately. I found one for the rattlecan variants, and they perform really well. I have very good experience with Mr Aqueous (durable even without priming) so I'm pretty optimistic about their primers.
The third gen are shit. They dont really stick to the minis and they are even worse to be used with an airbrush.
I have opposite result with ak and vallejo airbrushed primmers . Vallejo was easy to scratch and Ak was difficult to scratch
I’ve had bad experience with Vallejo paints too so I’m pretty surprised by my results here. I might have to do another test. Thanks for watching.
I've friends in Europe (pro painters) using only the AK primers. They say you have to shake it REALLY well before use. Thanks for this video any way 😉
Thanks. I will have to try again 👍
i was suprised the vallejo AB primer didnt come off in ur scratch test. I used it on resin and it did not work, so had to use rattlecan for that.
Me too! I had to double and triple check my results since I’ve had bad experience with Vallejo paints in the past. Thanks for watching and for the comment. 🙂
do you wash your resin models before painting? Thats a must
@@aquaticnstuff7666 very carefully with electric toothbrushe and soap
Like you, we always think the latest and greatest is somehow better. I too have these in my arsenal with the exception of Alacad which I don't even know what that is. The Vallejo paint sprays nicely for me and I love their war color kits. The Vallejo primer is the single worst primer I've ever used. I hate that stuff haha. Its like shooting liquid sand. I have AK gray and while I haven't tried it yet, professionals get the same garbage results you did. The winner is always Mr. Hobby and Tamiya. Tamiya's fine surface primer is Mr Hobby 1200 and their regular stuff I believe is Mr Hobby 500-800...can't remember. While fumey, Mr Hobby or Tamiya is the only way to go. Period.
100%!
I've moved away from lacquers because of the smell , but Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 (not pray can) gave a fantastic finish. I now use Stynylrez and once you get the air pressure/needle size combo working right for you it's really good. A little flow improver really helps too.
Thanks for sharing!
I've found Tamiya XF series pots to be my go to for priming plastic and resin models these days. Ive had numerous issues with vallejo, over rhe years, tried pro Acryl but was meh. They seem ro scratch off easily and constantly clog my airbrush.sincevusing tamiya never have a problem. Simply use 99% iso pro to fill a new bottle moat of the way and I'm golden
Any consideration of including including Badger’s “Stynylres” acrylic black primer on your black primer testing?
I considered it but heard it wasn’t as easy with work with. Maybe I’ll test it by itself in a future video.
@@weekendhobbyist Thanks for the video, I've been using stylnylrez and looking to change to a different airbrush primer going to go with vallejo after watching this. My experience with the stynylrez was of the 3 bottles I got(black white grey) black was good but I had a real clogging issue, white was useable but I had to be very careful because it would crack fairly easily and the grey was completly unuseable. IDK if i just got bad bottles I heard if they get to cold it ruins them and I live in canada so who knows if they're stored properly or not, but not something I want to chance again unless I have similiar experiences with other brands. Thanks again for the tests.
@@trickflothanks for the comment. I’m glad my video helped. I’m surprised too of the results. Other good ones are the Mr.Hobby and Tamiya Primers.
It's a very cool spoon test.
Thanks.
what about Badger Stynylrez!!??? :)
I think if I had a .5 needle airbrush I would test that one but since the Mr. Hobby one is so good I don’t have to.
I also can't get on with AK primer and expected more from them, I've tested it many ways but always got a bad result. Mr finishing primer is the complete opposite, it's so easy to work with almost like cheating;). Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching and commenting 🙂
AK primer (though in my case gray) is the same for me. Very rough surface and can be scratched off. Good to know that it is not my lack of skill, but rather just the product that's crap.
Thanks for reaffirming my results.
Hi, can i use the mr finishing 1500 black after mr surfacer 1000?, both are spray cans version. and will it be a good base for ts-83?
Yes. Are you filling and sanding with the Surfacer 1000?
Black 1500 is fine for metal paints but if you use a glossier base black it will look even better.
Hello, great comparison!
I'm not sure if that's the right video to be asking this under, but I'd give it a shot.
I'm preparing a microphone stand as a gift for a friend. It's printed out of ABS plastic. I want to paint it black. I've been sanding it for a while now using automotive filler spray and it's turning okay.
I have a couple deeper grooves that I plan to fill with wood filler and sand them down, do you think that's a good idea, or should I look for a plastic filler instead? If you'd recommend plastic filler, do you have any specific products you'd recommend?
I also plan to paint it black. Do you think I can just use Mr. Finishing Surface 1500 black and seal it with Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray?
Sorry if that's not the right place to ask, you just seem like a knowledgeable person in this field.
Hmm maybe you can use some extra fine milliput? But unless your scratches are very fine the Mr. Surfacer won’t be thick enough.
Don't shout at me, but do you wash the spoons before spraying them, as sometimes they have a releasing agent on them.
Thanks for watching and the comment. I didn’t wash the spoons but did wipe them down thoroughly with an alcohol wipe. I wouldn’t shout at you 😆. That’s a very relevant question.
Can you please AK micro filler use test?
😊
You saved me a lot of time and $. Thanks!
I’m so glad 🙂. Thanks for watching.
Because someone can't read the vallejo instructions
- Shake 1 minute
- spray continuously from side to side
- use the small nozzle for most miniature stuff
Did you thin the vallejo primer? The little one for airbrush
Yes, I thinned with Vallejo thinner and also a little of their airbrush flow improver.
@@weekendhobbyist it's only works with Vallejo thinner? Cause' I used water 1/1 to thin it and still jamming the nozzle 😐
I wouldn’t use water with it. Try the Vallejo thinner and the airbrush flow improver by Vallejo. These acrylics dry fast and primers are usually thicker. Have you had luck using water to thin Vallejo paints?
@@weekendhobbyist yeah, with the paint I don't have problems thinning it with water, only the primer give me issues
if the spons was not clean tat can maybe be the problem or a to thinned primmer. spekulation.
I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol before painting.
Are you able to test on models? Plastic spoons aren't made of the same plastic and it does make a difference
I don’t have a test mule at the moment.
Noticed you didn't have any ammo primer
I think they were out of stock at that time…?
@@weekendhobbyist See if you can get your hands on some TITANS HOBBY Black Matt Primer.
Its wonderful in summer, though not in the colder months. Maybe I sprayed too heavy, though I did not think I did. Ended up cracking.
Does the MR finishing surface do this?
@@weekendhobbyist honestly I was mostly teasing I do like it It is good, I have had a very hard time getting it consistently.
I’ve never had any issues with Mr. Primers or Tamiya’s.
Thanks for the rec.
I don't think your suppose to thin the Alclad, not 100% sure though.
I didn’t thin my Alclad but I did thin the AK (not sure if I said the wrong thing in the video). I am super surprised by how easily some of these came off. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video! Super helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
You may repeat the test with masking tape as it ripps off the vallejo pu primer when removing the tape. Vallejo is like a flexible film on the surface that does not stick sufficient on equal and smooth surfaces. It may be good for priming a figure but not for aircraft surfaces as fuselage or wings.
Thanks. I might retest.
Nice !
✌