It's stressful enough to be semi broke along side the road with your family but then you take the time to record and comment. Your family is patient with us. :) Your dedication to this channel (and the premium channel) is outstanding Paul.
Hey scanner danner. I work for a Allison transmission shop where we ONLY do Allison. And one thing to always look for is inside the output speed sensor there is a “tone wheel” that is held by a pin. There was a tsb for that time wheel to wear out do to that pin and cause it to read erratic. The way to inspect it is to put a pocket screwdriver in there and see if there is any up and down play. This happens a lot on the MD 3000 and HD 4000. If there is even the slightest movement, that could make the mph gauge go erratic. And the transmission brake is actually called the “retarder” haha it really is called that. Thanks for the video sir
Nice. Thanks for the info! I am pleased to say that I have about 5k on the rig since replacing the sensor and all is well, but I will keep this in my memory for the future. I really appreciate your comment.
We dealt with this this last month with an RV at our shop. We pulled the sensor and crossed referenced the part number and were able to get a genuine Allison sensor from our local GM dealer. Great video Paul. Always working even on vacation. Stay safe buddy.
I had this same issue on my 01 American Eagle, and it turned out to be a faulty plug. But I changed the sensor and spliced in a new plug.. all works good. Thanks for the video
When I worked on transit buses, we had frequent problems with failed Allison control modules. The symptoms were erratic shifting, or hanging in neutral between gears. Something to keep in mind.
Always a pain in the butt when stuff fails while you're on the road! I recently had to do a head gasket, a crank seal and a wheel bearing in an O'Reilly's parking lot in New Mexico while I was on my way from California to Alabama. Glad your speed sensor decided to behave a bit, at least! Or maybe it was never bad and you were just doing donuts a parking lot with that big beast! ;)
heyitschinoable Had most of my tools in the car with me, 'cause I was expecting problems, and I'm a mobile mechanic, so I'm used to working in parking lots. :)
There was a big batch of defective vehicle speed sensors put out a couple years ago by some company. its definitely not an allison but a lot of people with 4L60Es with the trucks and camaros were complaining that the end was rubbing up against the tail shaft (making the wining sound, check my videos). I went back to OEM and it was fixed easy.
Paul , I work in the motor couch industry and the fact that is worked after unplugged it you should replace the wire end I believe Napa part TM200. we always replace as a set. its not worth 50 passengers on side of the road
I had issues something like this with a brand new bus that came into the shop a few years back. Freightliner chassis I hooked up and could see on speed sensor strip charts. It being new.... all the speed sensors were in one big harness with main powers and steeling signals. Unraveled separated re looked. Good to go. Fyi
Could be a wiring problem too. Just like the ABS sensors of gm on a control arm. Had a few spike up mph on wiggle testing and bearings didn't roar or show signs of play. just a note they can go up depending on which wire is almost broke. I'm with you tho, the sensor.
Yeah, it's not called a VSS, only the Output Speed Sensor. Also, 99% of the time it's never the sensor, but the connector. That;s why it quit acting up when you pulled it off and put it back on. In 20 years I've only changed like 5 speed sensors on a WT. Also, you don't the input sensor to operate it, would just shift harder. The one that I have been replacing more lately is the Turbine speed, which is inside the Control Module. You would have to drop down the whole bottom. If you continue to have issues, you can get a new connector pigtail repair end, and you just butt connect it up after cutting the old one off. I've replaced a million of those ends.
In the automotive world 99% of the time it is NOT the connector. It is simply stressing the male pins inside of the sensor (by wiggling the connector) that causes the issues, making it look like a connector problem. And this RV is holding to that pattern as well. No issues since replacing the sensor, with about 600 miles of driving. No wiring repair or connector needed.
+ScannerDanner No, you just made a better connection after you removed and reconnected it. Small amounts of corrosion builds up on the pins, and you basically cleaned it. Thats why it stopped acting up before you even changed the sensor. I've been working for Florida Detroit Diesel-Allison since 1996 as an Allison tech. I've worked on 1000s of those motorhomes. Like you said, "In the auto world", but that isn't a GM or a Ford. Whoever the vendor is that makes those sensors for Allison really makes them bullet proof. Sames thing with the solenoids inside, they seem to last forever. Years ago we would have to replace the solenoids all the time, but they either changed vendors or totally redesigned them, and now they seem to last forever, or at least longer than the transmission. Wiring on cars seldom go bad, but on a MH, it's almost always a wire. That 3000MH will outlast your MH 10 times over. I've never had a WT fail in a MH before it had been put out into pasture in the last 20 years for normal wear. Only like 2 or 3 times has a WT had a major internal failure in a MH, and it wasn't a clutch, it was always a catastrophic failure of the planetary set. Hopefully you're using Transynd in there. And never use aftermarket filters.
Not trying to argue, just telling you what I've seen. At our shop, I had to learn everything. At a larger shop, you would either do transmissions or engines, but we're too small to have get to specialize. It actually makes it easier to troubleshoot, IMO, when you know how the trans and engine interact. I'm Expert certified on all Allisons, including the legacy products, and also Expert Cert on all Detroit Engines, 2 cycle on up through GHG17. Thats 7 diff Allison products with 5 diff generations of electronic systems, like 20 diff Detroit engine models with 7 diff generations of electronic systems, 6 tiers of aftertreatment since 2002.(I think the GHG17 system has over 50 sensors). Have the engines we have to work on they don't even make anymore. We also do any of the chassis stuff now, like brakes and susp. (only air brakes). I'm certain I've forgotten more than I know I'm sure, lol.
Mike, over 50% of the time you get a SS code it's never the sensor. They went to the straight sensor because the 90 degree would vibrate with the engine and attack the wire ends/terminals to the point of lossing contact. Always pull the codes up on the shifter and document. Push the Up and Down arrows and release until you see d1, the DTC will flash and push the Mose button to cycle through the different memory levels, i.e. d1 d2 d 3 and to d5. While in diagnostics mode hold down the Mode for 25 seconds and clear active and inactive codes. Road test and see what comes back. These will be current DTC's. If you find 35 00 in any memory levels i.e. d1, d2, d3, etc. Find the dedicated power problems first. This is a "Dedicated power" issue and not the Wake Up/Ignition problem. This power is how the memory stores the codes. You can set all kind of ghost codes when you have a dedicated power interrupt. The WTEC III TCM have "On" and "Off" tests meaning even though a solenoid is not applied it will send a milliamp through it and check to make sure the return milliamp is what it sent. It will check for a short to ground as well. If it losses power before the milliamp is returned it can set a ghost code. The input sensor will look at turbine sensor for numbers should it have a problem. The output sensor can downshift to first at 50 mph should it fail and you should replace the terminals any time you replace the sensor. I had a customer that it happened to and from then on we shipped the MD/HD with a pigtail you would splice in should I find SS code in the customer code check. It's just a wise thing to do. It broke his transmission off of the back of the engine. Serious scary failure. Very Destructive. Take NO CHANCES please. I've been in Allison's since 1986, certified, 3G mechanic and built my own race transmissions(Turbo 400s) as a youngster marine transmissions,DD 53,71,110 on and on bla bla. Your safety is more important. Currently manage an Allison shop where we rebuild Off-Road (5/6/8/9000s) and the 4500/4700 in Pulling Units and Frac Pump packages. Hydraulics, Electrical and electronics very heavy. These MD/HD's are tinker toys but at my last job we did many 100's. Like you Mike I'm very familiar with the Legacy units back to the MT-6 speed/4460 models, AT, MT, HT, CLT. Best of Luck to you Dan but I would suggest the straight sensor and replace the terminals. The male pins in the sensor are like a dowel pin and don't wear. I can't tell you how many of my techs in the field replaced the female pins. Kind of flimsy. Reseating the harness connector should be viewed as a confirmation of the female terminal failure not the male pin. Some of the terminals we deal with are still gold plated. Consumer grade electricals are not. The Gen 4 and newer don't run the On/Off tests as the older WTEC II and III regretfully.
Great video, just a question, when you were removing the sensor and installing the new, only a mounting bolt was unscrewed, and you just had to push the sensor in then torque back the bolt in (i am amusing it was snug tight.)
Paul I bet the Trans computers are either in a acess panel in the back or along the sides up top inside the rv. That's how they do it on buses. So if you need to hook up to check signals I bet you can. If you need any service info let me know. We have Allison Doc at our shop and I can look stuff up for you. Take care.
Thank for the video! Did you need to drain the transmission fluid before taking out the sensor or does the fluid sit low enough to where it doesn't matter?
No fluid will come out of that sensor location. Make sure you tighten the pins in the connector. My issue returned and I tightened the pins as my final fix
I work on trash trucks. It seems our transmission problems (4500 RDS series), are either the out put speed sensor, or trash juice eating the harness away. Other than that they're great transmissions. Oh btw i see your steeler logo in the RV. I'm dallas born and raised. Cowboy nation!
Why is it that RV's are always have problems? When my grandpa had one, he was always working on something. Dad's is always needing something done to it..
Dude, you have got to get yourself a mooshimeter, it's perfect for looking at a waveform or recording data in situations like this. Strap it on underneath and view the data on your phone (or record it to the flash card in the mooshimeter). Cheap, US Made, can't go wrong. (I am a Kiwi and not associated with mooshi)
Yeah, I am amazed at just how often I use mine. It's just so useful when you are working on your own or when you want to get measurements on a test drive. Even crazy stuff like using an earth lead as a current shunt looking for parasitic draw. Which can be really handy for cars that take a while to shut down completely.
I noticed that that engine is running a little on the hot side. You should investigate that further because the temperature gauge should be at the middle or below and NEVER ABOVE. When it is above it usually indicates that the engine is overheating. May be poor quality anti-freeze or running with just water. Modern cars never use just water alone. They use a mix of anti freeze and distilled water to funcion correctly. Take a look at the thermostat valve and test if it opens or if it is not stuck closed making impossible to the water to circulate through the radiator.
Thanks for your concern and for pointing that out. There is no issue with the cooling system. Mid point on this gauge is 160 degrees Fahrenheit. You cannot go by where the needle is on the gauge without knowing the numbers behind it.
I did not, sorry. The ohmmeter test on this type of sensor is not a great test, especially since it was an intermittent issue. These types of sensors can measure good resistance and still be bad. BTW, I've not had another issue since replacing the sensor. Thanks!
Thank you for the reply! We have a f650 rollback with an allison transmission and no speedometer reading, and shifting hard when put into drive from park. I pulled the sensor out and did a visual, I did bench test it lol with my verus, not sure how well I can move a screwdriver back and forth haha, tomorrow I will check the two wire circuit. Thanks again Paul.
Hey there ScannerDanner, I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L cummin's 4x4 Automatic. I purchased the vehicle with these problems, engine was not working. (1st issue) I keep getting a trouble code P0117 "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Voltage." I replaced the left rear engine coolant temperature sender (has only one wire). I cant find any other temperature sensor. This code P0117 I think is affecting my transmission, (2nd issue) the 47RE transmission is working good till it gets to about 50 mph- 65 mph, the RPM'S are at 2000 (50 mph) and at 65 mph (2500). The truck will not go over 65 mph. I did replace the governor pressure sensor, governor pressure solenoid, replaced the fluid, Cleaned out the valve body(note: valve body looks like someone over tightened), replaced PCM. note- it does have a banks torque converter and intake. The engine was pulled from a 1995 dodge diesel (non- 4x4) the banks system was on the 1995(dont know if this matters). I did perform hydraulic test on the governor pressure port, at idle it was 1.5 psi and as i slowly increase engine speed in drive the pressure would increase ( 20 mph-psi=33), (30 mph- psi=55), (40 mph-psi=56), (50 mph-psi=56), (60 mph-psi=56). I also performed hydraulic test on Overdrive Fourth Gear (road test) I installed a 300 psi gauge on the overdrive clutch pressure port plug. The pressure while driving was (20 mph-psi=0),(30 mph-psi=25), (40 mph-psi=25), (50 mph-psi=25), (60 mph-psi=25). I'm out of idea's, I wanted to see if anyone knows about these issue's before i decide to open up the transmission and inspect it. I also wanted to know how to test the TCC solenoid & Overdrive solenoid. I do have your book , but I think the Trans solenoids are a little different than purge solenoids, I don't want to damage the solenoid. I would appreciate any help. Thank-you!
Hi Paul Good videos been fallowing u for a few years already and theres a guy in here youtube name Nester. The mechanic OC giving u really good plugs he sends everyone to you just thought u should know big guy u should check him out thank you and keep up the good work my friend.
92 dodge d350 cummins auto. Do you think I may have the same problem? Between 3rd and overdrive it goes in and out sometimes til you go above 60 feathering the throttle then it stays in overdrive
Most likely it is a psi sensor issue. I know it shouldn't be floating during steady throttle. I'm hoping it is not an accurate measurement of what is actually going on in the engine.
hey, I replaced the output shaft seal on my 2000 american eagle. Looks like yours is bad. You may find some scoring when you remove it. it was an easy job, but the seal is $45.00 It looks wet around there in your video.
It is good, no drips, just a little moist and it's been this way for about 12,000 miles. You would be correct if you saw it wet in that location, it's just not bad enough for me to worry about it right now.
It works, It doesn't start reading until 140 degrees F. Pulling some of the mountains out west in 110 degree temps, the most I saw was around 200 or so. Maybe 220.
It's stressful enough to be semi broke along side the road with your family but then you take the time to record and comment. Your family is patient with us. :) Your dedication to this channel (and the premium channel) is outstanding Paul.
Thanks for the info on the speed sensor and it is great to see a young family enjoying the RV life and creating wonderful memories.
Walt
no issues since the replacement of the sensor either, thank you!
Hey scanner danner. I work for a Allison transmission shop where we ONLY do Allison. And one thing to always look for is inside the output speed sensor there is a “tone wheel” that is held by a pin. There was a tsb for that time wheel to wear out do to that pin and cause it to read erratic. The way to inspect it is to put a pocket screwdriver in there and see if there is any up and down play. This happens a lot on the MD 3000 and HD 4000. If there is even the slightest movement, that could make the mph gauge go erratic. And the transmission brake is actually called the “retarder” haha it really is called that. Thanks for the video sir
Nice. Thanks for the info! I am pleased to say that I have about 5k on the rig since replacing the sensor and all is well, but I will keep this in my memory for the future. I really appreciate your comment.
We dealt with this this last month with an RV at our shop. We pulled the sensor and crossed referenced the part number and were able to get a genuine Allison sensor from our local GM dealer. Great video Paul. Always working even on vacation. Stay safe buddy.
thanks bro
that is a really nice rv. your hard work is paying off.... its older and i am confident you can get this big boat ship shape.
I had this same issue on my 01 American Eagle, and it turned out to be a faulty plug. But I changed the sensor and spliced in a new plug.. all works good. Thanks for the video
hey Danner,that is a allison part.I have those in my parts room.one is straight and the other one is a 45 at the wire connector.
When I worked on transit buses, we had frequent problems with failed Allison control modules. The symptoms were erratic shifting, or hanging in neutral between gears. Something to keep in mind.
thanks for the tip
Always a pain in the butt when stuff fails while you're on the road! I recently had to do a head gasket, a crank seal and a wheel bearing in an O'Reilly's parking lot in New Mexico while I was on my way from California to Alabama.
Glad your speed sensor decided to behave a bit, at least! Or maybe it was never bad and you were just doing donuts a parking lot with that big beast! ;)
rhkips hard to believe...
heyitschinoable
Had most of my tools in the car with me, 'cause I was expecting problems, and I'm a mobile mechanic, so I'm used to working in parking lots. :)
O'Reilly's in Portland, OR wouldn't even let me install a new alternator (I just bought from them) in their parking lot!
There was a big batch of defective vehicle speed sensors put out a couple years ago by some company. its definitely not an allison but a lot of people with 4L60Es with the trucks and camaros were complaining that the end was rubbing up against the tail shaft (making the wining sound, check my videos). I went back to OEM and it was fixed easy.
Did you have a good trip? This must have been years ago kids are young, keep up the good work
Paul , I work in the motor couch industry and the fact that is worked after unplugged it you should replace the wire end I believe Napa part TM200. we always replace as a set. its not worth 50 passengers on side of the road
Good video. I pray you're trip goes well. Have lot's of fun.
it did brother. This was filmed in June. Thanks!
Thank a lot
What is the difference between the input and the output speed sensor
I had issues something like this with a brand new bus that came into the shop a few years back. Freightliner chassis I hooked up and could see on speed sensor strip charts. It being new.... all the speed sensors were in one big harness with main powers and steeling signals. Unraveled separated re looked. Good to go. Fyi
Could be a wiring problem too. Just like the ABS sensors of gm on a control arm. Had a few spike up mph on wiggle testing and bearings didn't roar or show signs of play. just a note they can go up depending on which wire is almost broke. I'm with you tho, the sensor.
Nice work and diagnosis Paul!
Yeah, it's not called a VSS, only the Output Speed Sensor.
Also, 99% of the time it's never the sensor, but the connector. That;s why it quit acting up when you pulled it off and put it back on. In 20 years I've only changed like 5 speed sensors on a WT.
Also, you don't the input sensor to operate it, would just shift harder.
The one that I have been replacing more lately is the Turbine speed, which is inside the Control Module. You would have to drop down the whole bottom.
If you continue to have issues, you can get a new connector pigtail repair end, and you just butt connect it up after cutting the old one off. I've replaced a million of those ends.
In the automotive world 99% of the time it is NOT the connector. It is simply stressing the male pins inside of the sensor (by wiggling the connector) that causes the issues, making it look like a connector problem. And this RV is holding to that pattern as well. No issues since replacing the sensor, with about 600 miles of driving. No wiring repair or connector needed.
+ScannerDanner No, you just made a better connection after you removed and reconnected it. Small amounts of corrosion builds up on the pins, and you basically cleaned it. Thats why it stopped acting up before you even changed the sensor. I've been working for Florida Detroit Diesel-Allison since 1996 as an Allison tech. I've worked on 1000s of those motorhomes. Like you said, "In the auto world", but that isn't a GM or a Ford. Whoever the vendor is that makes those sensors for Allison really makes them bullet proof. Sames thing with the solenoids inside, they seem to last forever. Years ago we would have to replace the solenoids all the time, but they either changed vendors or totally redesigned them, and now they seem to last forever, or at least longer than the transmission.
Wiring on cars seldom go bad, but on a MH, it's almost always a wire. That 3000MH will outlast your MH 10 times over. I've never had a WT fail in a MH before it had been put out into pasture in the last 20 years for normal wear. Only like 2 or 3 times has a WT had a major internal failure in a MH, and it wasn't a clutch, it was always a catastrophic failure of the planetary set.
Hopefully you're using Transynd in there. And never use aftermarket filters.
Not trying to argue, just telling you what I've seen. At our shop, I had to learn everything. At a larger shop, you would either do transmissions or engines, but we're too small to have get to specialize. It actually makes it easier to troubleshoot, IMO, when you know how the trans and engine interact.
I'm Expert certified on all Allisons, including the legacy products, and also Expert Cert on all Detroit Engines, 2 cycle on up through GHG17. Thats 7 diff Allison products with 5 diff generations of electronic systems, like 20 diff Detroit engine models with 7 diff generations of electronic systems, 6 tiers of aftertreatment since 2002.(I think the GHG17 system has over 50 sensors). Have the engines we have to work on they don't even make anymore. We also do any of the chassis stuff now, like brakes and susp. (only air brakes).
I'm certain I've forgotten more than I know I'm sure, lol.
Mike, over 50% of the time you get a SS code it's never the sensor. They went to the straight sensor because the 90 degree would vibrate with the engine and attack the wire ends/terminals to the point of lossing contact.
Always pull the codes up on the shifter and document. Push the Up and Down arrows and release until you see d1, the DTC will flash and push the Mose button to cycle through the different memory levels, i.e. d1 d2 d 3 and to d5. While in diagnostics mode hold down the Mode for 25 seconds and clear active and inactive codes. Road test and see what comes back. These will be current DTC's. If you find 35 00 in any memory levels i.e. d1, d2, d3, etc. Find the dedicated power problems first. This is a "Dedicated power" issue and not the Wake Up/Ignition problem. This power is how the memory stores the codes.
You can set all kind of ghost codes when you have a dedicated power interrupt. The WTEC III TCM have "On" and "Off" tests meaning even though a solenoid is not applied it will send a milliamp through it and check to make sure the return milliamp is what it sent. It will check for a short to ground as well. If it losses power before the milliamp is returned it can set a ghost code.
The input sensor will look at turbine sensor for numbers should it have a problem. The output sensor can downshift to first at 50 mph should it fail and you should replace the terminals any time you replace the sensor. I had a customer that it happened to and from then on we shipped the MD/HD with a pigtail you would splice in should I find SS code in the customer code check. It's just a wise thing to do.
It broke his transmission off of the back of the engine. Serious scary failure. Very Destructive. Take NO CHANCES please.
I've been in Allison's since 1986, certified, 3G mechanic and built my own race transmissions(Turbo 400s) as a youngster marine transmissions,DD 53,71,110 on and on bla bla. Your safety is more important.
Currently manage an Allison shop where we rebuild Off-Road (5/6/8/9000s) and the 4500/4700 in Pulling Units and Frac Pump packages. Hydraulics, Electrical and electronics very heavy. These MD/HD's are tinker toys but at my last job we did many 100's.
Like you Mike I'm very familiar with the Legacy units back to the MT-6 speed/4460 models, AT, MT, HT, CLT.
Best of Luck to you Dan but I would suggest the straight sensor and replace the terminals. The male pins in the sensor are like a dowel pin and don't wear. I can't tell you how many of my techs in the field replaced the female pins. Kind of flimsy. Reseating the harness connector should be viewed as a confirmation of the female terminal failure not the male pin.
Some of the terminals we deal with are still gold plated. Consumer grade electricals are not.
The Gen 4 and newer don't run the On/Off tests as the older WTEC II and III regretfully.
Mike Keith 💓
I've never seen a 3000 Allison fail. They're built like a tank.
Great video, just a question, when you were removing the sensor and installing the new, only a mounting bolt was unscrewed, and you just had to push the sensor in then torque back the bolt in (i am amusing it was snug tight.)
Paul I bet the Trans computers are either in a acess panel in the back or along the sides up top inside the rv. That's how they do it on buses. So if you need to hook up to check signals I bet you can. If you need any service info let me know. We have Allison Doc at our shop and I can look stuff up for you. Take care.
Thank for the video! Did you need to drain the transmission fluid before taking out the sensor or does the fluid sit low enough to where it doesn't matter?
No fluid will come out of that sensor location. Make sure you tighten the pins in the connector. My issue returned and I tightened the pins as my final fix
Paul ...forced to do some SWAPTRONICS LOL .. some times you gotta do what you gotta do
Love the RV series. Thanks Paul
thanks man
I work on trash trucks. It seems our transmission problems (4500 RDS series), are either the out put speed sensor, or trash juice eating the harness away. Other than that they're great transmissions. Oh btw i see your steeler logo in the RV. I'm dallas born and raised. Cowboy nation!
lol your Cowboys took it to us last week.
Why is it that RV's are always have problems? When my grandpa had one, he was always working on something. Dad's is always needing something done to it..
Dude, you have got to get yourself a mooshimeter, it's perfect for looking at a waveform or recording data in situations like this. Strap it on underneath and view the data on your phone (or record it to the flash card in the mooshimeter). Cheap, US Made, can't go wrong. (I am a Kiwi and not associated with mooshi)
thanks Alex! I'll look into it
Alex, good tip! This is very Nice tool, handy for in the field.
Yeah, I am amazed at just how often I use mine. It's just so useful when you are working on your own or when you want to get measurements on a test drive. Even crazy stuff like using an earth lead as a current shunt looking for parasitic draw. Which can be really handy for cars that take a while to shut down completely.
I noticed that that engine is running a little on the hot side. You should investigate that further because the temperature gauge should be at the middle or below and NEVER ABOVE. When it is above it usually indicates that the engine is overheating. May be poor quality anti-freeze or running with just water. Modern cars never use just water alone. They use a mix of anti freeze and distilled water to funcion correctly. Take a look at the thermostat valve and test if it opens or if it is not stuck closed making impossible to the water to circulate through the radiator.
Thanks for your concern and for pointing that out. There is no issue with the cooling system. Mid point on this gauge is 160 degrees Fahrenheit. You cannot go by where the needle is on the gauge without knowing the numbers behind it.
Paul, great video!! Paul, did you happen to ohm test or do any other meter/scope bench test with the old sensor?
I did not, sorry. The ohmmeter test on this type of sensor is not a great test, especially since it was an intermittent issue. These types of sensors can measure good resistance and still be bad.
BTW, I've not had another issue since replacing the sensor. Thanks!
Thank you for the reply! We have a f650 rollback with an allison transmission and no speedometer reading, and shifting hard when put into drive from park. I pulled the sensor out and did a visual, I did bench test it lol with my verus, not sure how well I can move a screwdriver back and forth haha, tomorrow I will check the two wire circuit. Thanks again Paul.
I really appreciate your videos
Thank you!
Good fix
Stick a propane injection set-up on there, it works like nitrous for diesels.... Would give you a power kick to get moving.
my 96 Sonoma did the exact same thing and even with the new one the speedometer will go up when i'm sitting still revving the engine in neutral
What you were calling the input speed sensor - are you certain that it is not a sensor for the tachometer?
NO.
A WT has 3 sensors. Input, Turbine, Output.
when the speed sensor goes crazy, did your engine idle speed went crazy. did the idle go up?
Idle speed, no. Shift points, yes, big time. I couldn't even use the cruise control
Hey there ScannerDanner, I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L cummin's 4x4 Automatic. I purchased the vehicle with these problems, engine was not working. (1st issue) I keep getting a trouble code P0117 "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Voltage." I replaced the left rear engine coolant temperature sender (has only one wire). I cant find any other temperature sensor. This code P0117 I think is affecting my transmission, (2nd issue) the 47RE transmission is working good till it gets to about 50 mph- 65 mph, the RPM'S are at 2000 (50 mph) and at 65 mph (2500). The truck will not go over 65 mph. I did replace the governor pressure sensor, governor pressure solenoid, replaced the fluid, Cleaned out the valve body(note: valve body looks like someone over tightened), replaced PCM. note- it does have a banks torque converter and intake. The engine was pulled from a 1995 dodge diesel (non- 4x4) the banks system was on the 1995(dont know if this matters). I did perform hydraulic test on the governor pressure port, at idle it was 1.5 psi and as i slowly increase engine speed in drive the pressure would increase ( 20 mph-psi=33), (30 mph- psi=55), (40 mph-psi=56), (50 mph-psi=56), (60 mph-psi=56). I also performed hydraulic test on Overdrive Fourth Gear (road test) I installed a 300 psi gauge on the overdrive clutch pressure port plug. The pressure while driving was (20 mph-psi=0),(30 mph-psi=25), (40 mph-psi=25), (50 mph-psi=25), (60 mph-psi=25). I'm out of idea's, I wanted to see if anyone knows about these issue's before i decide to open up the transmission and inspect it. I also wanted to know how to test the TCC solenoid & Overdrive solenoid. I do have your book , but I think the Trans solenoids are a little different than purge solenoids, I don't want to damage the solenoid. I would appreciate any help. Thank-you!
I do not know where your ECT sensor is, but I do know it is definitely not a one wire. It will be a two wire design.
Hi Paul Good videos been fallowing u for a few years already and theres a guy in here youtube name Nester. The mechanic OC giving u really good plugs he sends everyone to you just thought u should know big guy u should check him out thank you and keep up the good work my friend.
92 dodge d350 cummins auto. Do you think I may have the same problem? Between 3rd and overdrive it goes in and out sometimes til you go above 60 feathering the throttle then it stays in overdrive
IF the speedometer is steady, then probably not.
Thanks this worked perfect for me
the Transmission is due for a pressure wash and a shot of sealant conditioner. Sure your Transmission temperature gauge is working ?
Forget the last part of my comment
I was stupid again, don´t Forget it :-) Your water temp is working, tranny temp is not
it works, it just runs cool and won't read until it is over 140.
2004 GMC Sierra 2500hd transmission output speed sensor
whats up with the oil pressure?
Most likely it is a psi sensor issue. I know it shouldn't be floating during steady throttle. I'm hoping it is not an accurate measurement of what is actually going on in the engine.
that will make an interesting video :)
hey, I replaced the output shaft seal on my 2000 american eagle. Looks like yours is bad. You may find some scoring when you remove it. it was an easy job, but the seal is $45.00 It looks wet around there in your video.
It is good, no drips, just a little moist and it's been this way for about 12,000 miles. You would be correct if you saw it wet in that location, it's just not bad enough for me to worry about it right now.
COOL Danner
Does your stereo have a power issue? flickering lights.
Its probably in demo mode
James Schrumm Could be LED lights...they appear like that on video all the time.
JIGA BACHI Depends on the frame rate of the recording, my dash cam will pick up led flicker in hd. it is a very fast blink rate though.
James Schrumm Couldn't tell the difference, I'm not as educated as i would like to be when it comes to these things. 😁
yep, it was in demo mode
That Cummins will outlast the RV.
That transmission will outlast all of it...
awesome...
Where is your blue fluffy gloves lolol
They're black now haha
Awesome
It's nice to have nitrile gloves in the truck or motorhome for jobs like this.
hes my neighbor :D
Allison transmission
Your trans temp is not working.
It works, It doesn't start reading until 140 degrees F. Pulling some of the mountains out west in 110 degree temps, the most I saw was around 200 or so. Maybe 220.