Another excellent tutorial, Martin. Very complete with the usual high production values. For weathering I've often used inexpensive craft acrylic paint and windshield washer fluid. This is somewhat between your first and second choices in cost and performance. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Great Tutorial! I've seen many weathering videos so far because i started weathering my first buildings an freight wagons. This was the first one that compared different types of colours. Great effects with the oilpaint but who really sees the difference when the building has taken its place on the layout!? I like it very much that you can create really strong effects on cheap plastic buildings with little afford. Greetings from Germany Bernd
Excellent video for everyone, Even seasoned modellers. Maybe you can do something with powders, or on different types of buildings, card, plaster etc. great video and enjoy watching your projects. ❤
Great! Thank You so much. Hopefully You’ve uploaded this tutorial when I finally have bought styrofoam for making walls and chimneys :D cheers from Poland, Leżajsk
Hi! I love your videos ❤. I was wondering, in your videos you typically weather the red brick type of buildings in which the effects you apply are amazing. I get very good results as well but I’m struggling a bit with white flat surfaces building like plaster houses. Would you have some tips there? Which color should be dominant? Thanks for the advise!!
Thanks Martin, when using acrylics If you pre wet the surface with wet water prior to applying the acrylic paint mixture it will wick into the crevices similar to the oil based mixture. By varying the amount of water for prewetting you can also create realistic flooded weathered water effects. Plus acrylics are non toxic and dry extremely fast. In my opinion acrylics provide the most versatile, safe, non toxic, time saving and easy cleanup results for painting anything that requires painting on a model railroad layout. Because of their natural blending nature and the fact they can easily be thinned with water to make stains and using different ratios of paint and water or alcohol, I find it isn't necessary to use anything else to create any painted effects. Although I bought weathering pastel chalks when I started to build my layout I have never used them because the same effects can be achieved with acrylics permanently, without the mess. One thing to keep in mind when painting new unpainted plastic surfaces is that a FLAT primer coat of any FLAT primer made for plastics should be applied to give some tooth for the acrylic craft paints to stick to. Any rattle can FLAT primer for plastics will work but I have had good results with most matte Krylon Fusions or Camouflage spray paints. Rustoleums FLAT Red primer for plastic is excellent for priming brick. It provides excellent tooth and dries in less than a minute and can be painted over almost immediately. A single light coat is all that needs to be applied. When it comes to the primer coat, the lighter the better. It's important not to over apply the primer coat. It's better to be somewhat streaky rather than a solid uniform coat. The idea is to apply a FLAT base coat for the acrylic paints to adhere to. The thicker the final paint coat, the less detail will be noticeable. Flat or matte finishes are the key to creating realistic looking finishes on natural looking wood, brick, masonry, earth, and turf surfaces as found in the natural world. I'm not familiar with the rest of the world but I know there are no shinny looking plastic buildings, shingles, fences or trees in my neighborhood. I even disassemble, mask, prime, repaint, and weather some of Woodland Scenics and all of my Menards buildings with flat acrylic craft paints to create a level of cohesion with all other structures. The flat acrylic craft paints also do an exceptional job of hiding the unnatural imperfections and shiny plastic dimpleing that sometimes occur in the molding process.
Question about your costs per style. Aren't these really the initial investment costs? Surely the material will last for some considerable time, and with the "amortization", so to speak, of these investment costs, the per usage costs will decrease significantly. IMO, of course. Another way to remove excess acrylic paint, 91% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol will take off acrylic paint. I have found isopropyl alcohol to be a harsh medium to dilute acrylic paint; the cheapest blue windshield washer fluid you can find works well and dried seemingly faster than diluting with water. Also, using acrylic CRAFT pain in lieu of the tube acrylic mixed 50-50 (by eye) will produce a airbrushable color. Here in the US, the windshield washer fluid is less than $2 per gallon and acrylic craft paints will cost, depending on how a sale may be happening, anywhere from $0.24 to $1.49 per 2 ounce bottle and it becomes practicably a "life time supply" for a very low investment. ANOTHER EXCELLENT AND INFORMATIVE VIDEO!!
Problem with all three methods demonstrated is that there is no proper reference being followed. The effect achieved is that of a wall once painted white or in which the builder has been throwing mortar around willy-nilly. It is every difficult for most people actually to see what is on their reference and simply paint that, instead of painting what they think should be there or what they believe they see there.
Cracking demo of different materials. Very helpful, ty Martin! We just use paint from a tin can of light cream colour we had sitting in the garage and add one drop of black when applying. All water based so easy to remove the excess. So far so good but the first method you showed has caught my interest. Let's see how that will go. Thank you!
Nice tutorial Martin. I use the acrylic method normally and pick the odd brick out in a different shade of brick red if the building is going to be more prominent.
lots of good stuff there ! one thought though , your use at 8.04 of isopropanol, Please please read the warning label . This is really a rough product. I have used regular window cleaning liquid, that is much more safe to you. And usually you already have it at home. Try it , it works like a charm. Anyway a very good video, as always. thanks !
Sorry, off topic but being you're answering viewer questions I thought I'd ask one of the best modelers I've ever seen. I've been watching your videos, and am guessing you will have an idea. How would you go about making Georgian Bay wind swept Pine trees? A quick google search will show you the iconic Killbear Park tree. I live not far from there and want to model similar trees. The shore line of the upper Great Lakes is home to these and similar ones seem to be on Sweden's shorelines too. Thanks.
hey :) Personnaly i use pigments, mixed with water and a little bit of detergent or odorless thinner... works great and u can remove the exess within seconds (using a makup sponge is the best way to go in my opinion...) CHeers
For a beginner like me these very usefull tutorials. Thanks Martin for this channel. I have 2 little PIKO Burgstein buildings with plain yellowish walls (kind of plastered) I can't find any tutorials for weathering these, Is it the same method as weathering loco's and wagons?
Glad I found your channel Ron. Learn a lot on using dc/dcc on same layout. Going to use this. Have you ever used “suitcase clips” I use them so I’m not soldering underneath my layout. Really speeds me up. I can try to find a link if you want me too.
Excellent again. You will find that for « wet water » if you use laundry detergent which is made to create a low amount of suds, you will get less bubbles than with dishwasher liquid which is made to create suds.
I love seeing the different techniques! I've just been using hydrocal plaster that is mostly liquid and rub that into all the crevices... takes awhile though haha
Would you recommend a gloss varnish before applying each of the washes? You probably don't need to if applying straight onto a plastic finish, but if you've been painting your brickwork you'll have quite a matte surface and I suspect the washes won't flow very well.
If you have to paint the brickwork a brick red colour first, you would be better off painting the brickwork in a mortar colour, let it dry and then dry brush the brick red over the top.
Another excellent tutorial, Martin. Very complete with the usual high production values. For weathering I've often used inexpensive craft acrylic paint and windshield washer fluid. This is somewhat between your first and second choices in cost and performance. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Great Tutorial! I've seen many weathering videos so far because i started weathering my first buildings an freight wagons.
This was the first one that compared different types of colours.
Great effects with the oilpaint but who really sees the difference when the building has taken its place on the layout!?
I like it very much that you can create really strong effects on cheap plastic buildings with little afford.
Greetings from Germany
Bernd
I’d like the low-cost result for an older, well used building.
thanks this is one of your most usefull vids🛠
Excellent video for everyone, Even seasoned modellers. Maybe you can do something with powders, or on different types of buildings, card, plaster etc. great video and enjoy watching your projects. ❤
Great! Thank You so much. Hopefully You’ve uploaded this tutorial when I finally have bought styrofoam for making walls and chimneys :D cheers from Poland, Leżajsk
Excellent tutorial!
Brilliant!! Really good update. Many thanks.
Excelente tutorial, please Martin more videos in Spanish :)
Whats the best way to remove old paint from buildings?
That depends a lot of type of paint, oil- or water based. No matter which, I would think a new layer on top probably is the best way to go.
Hi! I love your videos ❤. I was wondering, in your videos you typically weather the red brick type of buildings in which the effects you apply are amazing. I get very good results as well but I’m struggling a bit with white flat surfaces building like plaster houses. Would you have some tips there? Which color should be dominant? Thanks for the advise!!
Thanks Martin, when using acrylics If you pre wet the surface with wet water prior to applying the acrylic paint mixture it will wick into the crevices similar to the oil based mixture. By varying the amount of water for prewetting you can also create realistic flooded weathered water effects. Plus acrylics are non toxic and dry extremely fast. In my opinion acrylics provide the most versatile, safe, non toxic, time saving and easy cleanup results for painting anything that requires painting on a model railroad layout. Because of their natural blending nature and the fact they can easily be thinned with water to make stains and using different ratios of paint and water or alcohol, I find it isn't necessary to use anything else to create any painted effects. Although I bought weathering pastel chalks when I started to build my layout I have never used them because the same effects can be achieved with acrylics permanently, without the mess. One thing to keep in mind when painting new unpainted plastic surfaces is that a FLAT primer coat of any FLAT primer made for plastics should be applied to give some tooth for the acrylic craft paints to stick to. Any rattle can FLAT primer for plastics will work but I have had good results with most matte Krylon Fusions or Camouflage spray paints. Rustoleums FLAT Red primer for plastic is excellent for priming brick. It provides excellent tooth and dries in less than a minute and can be painted over almost immediately. A single light coat is all that needs to be applied. When it comes to the primer coat, the lighter the better. It's important not to over apply the primer coat. It's better to be somewhat streaky rather than a solid uniform coat. The idea is to apply a FLAT base coat for the acrylic paints to adhere to. The thicker the final paint coat, the less detail will be noticeable. Flat or matte finishes are the key to creating realistic looking finishes on natural looking wood, brick, masonry, earth, and turf surfaces as found in the natural world. I'm not familiar with the rest of the world but I know there are no shinny looking plastic buildings, shingles, fences or trees in my neighborhood. I even disassemble, mask, prime, repaint, and weather some of Woodland Scenics and all of my Menards buildings with flat acrylic craft paints to create a level of cohesion with all other structures. The flat acrylic craft paints also do an exceptional job of hiding the unnatural imperfections and shiny plastic dimpleing that sometimes occur in the molding process.
Question about your costs per style. Aren't these really the initial investment costs? Surely the material will last for some considerable time, and with the "amortization", so to speak, of these investment costs, the per usage costs will decrease significantly.
IMO, of course.
Another way to remove excess acrylic paint, 91% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol will take off acrylic paint. I have found isopropyl alcohol to be a harsh medium to dilute acrylic paint; the cheapest blue windshield washer fluid you can find works well and dried seemingly faster than diluting with water. Also, using acrylic CRAFT pain in lieu of the tube acrylic mixed 50-50 (by eye) will produce a airbrushable color. Here in the US, the windshield washer fluid is less than $2 per gallon and acrylic craft paints will cost, depending on how a sale may be happening, anywhere from $0.24 to $1.49 per 2 ounce bottle and it becomes practicably a "life time supply" for a very low investment.
ANOTHER EXCELLENT AND INFORMATIVE VIDEO!!
Problem with all three methods demonstrated is that there is no proper reference being followed. The effect achieved is that of a wall once painted white or in which the builder has been throwing mortar around willy-nilly. It is every difficult for most people actually to see what is on their reference and simply paint that, instead of painting what they think should be there or what they believe they see there.
I love Liquitex -- so I use very little.
The weathering effect is amazing. Thank you for your guidance. I look forward to hearing more from you. I wish you a happy day.
Hi am are painter😍😍🌺🌺
🙌
Excelente
Can you make some video’s, just running some trains? I would love to see that
Cracking demo of different materials. Very helpful, ty Martin! We just use paint from a tin can of light cream colour we had sitting in the garage and add one drop of black when applying. All water based so easy to remove the excess. So far so good but the first method you showed has caught my interest. Let's see how that will go. Thank you!
Nice tutorial Martin. I use the acrylic method normally and pick the odd brick out in a different shade of brick red if the building is going to be more prominent.
This was a great video, look forward to seeing the next step.
I like the way you started on something simple :)
Great tutorial ... thanks.
Yeah, I was wondering what your favorite speeding locomotive
lots of good stuff there ! one thought though , your use at 8.04 of isopropanol, Please please read the warning label . This is really a rough product. I have used regular window cleaning liquid, that is much more safe to you. And usually you already have it at home. Try it , it works like a charm. Anyway a very good video, as always. thanks !
Your videos are all so nice!
Sorry, off topic but being you're answering viewer questions I thought I'd ask one of the best modelers I've ever seen. I've been watching your videos, and am guessing you will have an idea. How would you go about making Georgian Bay wind swept Pine trees? A quick google search will show you the iconic Killbear Park tree. I live not far from there and want to model similar trees. The shore line of the upper Great Lakes is home to these and similar ones seem to be on Sweden's shorelines too. Thanks.
hey :)
Personnaly i use pigments, mixed with water and a little bit of detergent or odorless thinner... works great and u can remove the exess within seconds (using a makup sponge is the best way to go in my opinion...)
CHeers
For a beginner like me these very usefull tutorials. Thanks Martin for this channel.
I have 2 little PIKO Burgstein buildings with plain yellowish walls (kind of plastered) I can't find any tutorials for weathering these, Is it the same method as weathering loco's and wagons?
Glad I found your channel Ron. Learn a lot on using dc/dcc on same layout. Going to use this.
Have you ever used “suitcase clips” I use them so I’m not soldering underneath my layout. Really speeds me up. I can try to find a link if you want me too.
Excellent again. You will find that for « wet water » if you use laundry detergent which is made to create a low amount of suds, you will get less bubbles than with dishwasher liquid which is made to create suds.
You are amazing. Thank you for your videos. I just love your abilities.
thank you so much again for a great tutorial, will help massively
Great tutorial as always. Where do you get the color blocks? What are they described as?
One of the other train modelers on youtube has used very thin joint compound as mortar on these scale brick walls.
Thank you for that comparison, sir! A very helpful video.
Wonderful demonstrations, thank you! I've just ordered a large brick structure for a future build, so very well taken advice.
I love seeing the different techniques! I've just been using hydrocal plaster that is mostly liquid and rub that into all the crevices... takes awhile though haha
every day, nice job, thank
simple yet effective technique
Very good video, keep up the good work.
Great content 👌 once again
Thank you Martin
Would you recommend a gloss varnish before applying each of the washes? You probably don't need to if applying straight onto a plastic finish, but if you've been painting your brickwork you'll have quite a matte surface and I suspect the washes won't flow very well.
If you have to paint the brickwork a brick red colour first, you would be better off painting the brickwork in a mortar colour, let it dry and then dry brush the brick red over the top.
Great video!
Bra jobb 😀👍🏻