This was my first time using pulleys. Ever. So I was in no position to be teaching anyone how to do it. But there are dozens of extremely detailed how to videos on here if you look. Good luck!
I use a flip-flop winch for big logs like that out in the woods away from power equipment. It's slower and a bit lbor intensive but it will move anything that your rope is strong enough to move
Oh thank you. Yes. Knots are a constant problem for me. My brain is a sponge for most things, but for some reason when it comes to knots I can never remember them. I even have a couple of little field guides on them, but they never sink in. 😏 I’m sure repetition would help, and now I know which knot to try first. Thanks for watching. :)
Had a neighbor offer his advice on using a gas saw over the same electric…. And I only have to use it to trim branches etc before loading up my electric mill…. So I used the gas stihl on my next day of logs. When the neighbor who works nights came over and said “what the hell?!”…. I told him to go talk to the first neighbor🤣🤣🤣. They both strongly favor the electric option now. Right tool I guess😉
LOL - Yup, the lack of engine noise is the number one reason. Followed by the lack of exhaust smell. Followed by the lack of needing to get gas and carry it. Followed by my lack of engine servicing know-how. I’m sure the list goes on and on. Thanks for being the first person to agree with me. 😎
Haha. Thanks for the comment. The first time using block and tackle was a learning experience and a fun sense of accomplishment. :) As for the electric chainsaw, I love it, quiet, no exhaust, feels a LOT safer to me than a gas saw. But I can totally see how this version would seem… underpowered to gas users. I’d definitely suggest checking out the new 20” model from them. It’s 4hp and claims to have up to 25 MORE torque than a comparable gas saw. Much beefier construction too. I haven’t tried it yet, but plan to get one when this one dies. amzn.to/45CtgD5 (affiliate link) - Anyway, as a non-pro I really have no complaints about even my early model 16” - I’ve been using it for a couple of years now and the biggest issue I have run into is just other people’s perceptions of it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ But I’m not here to convince anyone, just out here doing my thing. Thanks for watching! :)
Good stuff. I'm a huge proponent of the block and tackle, but they do take some learning. I remind people all the time that rope and pulleys were moving the world long before there was anything like modern chain, ratchet straps, etc. If you get a chance, grab yourself a copy of the Ashley Book of Knots. There's no better book for a gent working in the woods, imo. You'll learn heaps about how to rig ropes, use pulley systems, and it's just plain fun, too.
That’s solid advice! I really do need to learn some proper knots, but I think there’s too much other junk in the part of my brain where that stuff is supposed to live - I just can’t seem to learn and recall them. LOL
@@lumberingshenanigans Oh, don't I know how that goes!! I have to practice the knots regularly just to keep them straight in my noggin. The bowline is a must-have, but most of the others are just nice to have. If you get a copy of the Ashley Book of Knots, you'll always have it on hand to reference... and there's a gob of ideas in it regarding pulleys and such. Very old school stuff, honestly, and perfect for the homestead. I'll look forward to seeing what you get up to next.
Whats the battery chainsaw like anyway? Got a ms880 stihl but wantes something smaller for light work. Is it powerful enough? Seems to go through that log quite easily?
Oh I absolutely LOVE my 16” 60v electric chainsaw and hate my 12” 20v one. DeWalt stopped making the 16” a while back. They have an 18” 2ish horsepower one, and the new big boy toy 20” @ 4hp which is as big as I’ll ever need. Metal parts, real dogs, beefy looking. I’ve read good reviews of the stihl electric too, but I’m so invested in DeWalt infrastructure I’ll stick with the yellow for now.
I used to work for the railroad. They had rules about steel toe boots. I have to say I was absolutely shocked to know the truth about steel toes and the aftermath of them. After I seen what happened to several peoples feet because of them I refused to ever wear another pair. I'll take a broken foot any day and anytime over having a quarter to a third of my foot sheared off. The steel toe is actually rated at a low weight at like 6-8 feet. The weight tested is only like 8-15 pounds. With that said when they get exceeded and failed what happens is the cap gets rolled back and you guessed it shears the end of your foot depending on the weight. One man I knew lost his portion of foot over a twenty eight pound part coming off a shelf. If your going to wear them know their limitations. I have had a broken foot before from a farm accident it was across the metatarsal and it sucked bad, but a lot less than the co worker I met years later that got his foot amputated by his boot he thought was there to save his foot.
@wayne251975 Thanks for that. I’ve heard stories like that before, and they go through my mind every time I put my steel boots on. Luckily I’m not dealing with situations that fall outside their rates use often, if at all. I simply don’t do much heavy stuff. Mostly I wear them because I use my feet a lot when clearing trails. Kicking duff and topsoil away, so it’s as much about protecting the boots as my toes. But yeah if my truck ever runs over my toes you’re probably right, better to break a few bones than loose all your toes.
@@lumberingshenanigans nothing wrong with wanting to protect yourself. I used to feel many of the PPE that we use possibly made us less safe as so many rely on it instead of taking measures also or eliminate the threat altogether. I'm not one of the "that's dumb" crowd but much of what we do has been safetied to death. Awareness is probably the best PPE you could have but the better option is use common sense, Some PPE , and don't fall into the trap of no worries or other extreme of "that's unsafe" you need to be bubble wrapped. Respect the work, keeping awareness strong and common sense has served me well for many years.
@wayne251975 I just watched a chainsaw video from @bushradical where he said basically the same thing. PPE is all well and good as long a you understand it’s not going to protect you from the things that can go wrong if you let it give you a false sense of security. And a carpenter friend of mine always says, safety gear is great until it gets in the way of being safe. Like eye protection that fogs up while you’re using a tablesaw, or gloves that get caught in the belt sander are more dangerous than working without them.
Great video. It may be worth noting that you are actually only getting a 2 to 1 advantage with this rigging. The second snatch block is only acting to change the direction of pull. Two snatch blocks can be rigged to give a 4 to 1 advantage but I guess 2 to 1 was good enough in this application. Something to keep in mind if you encounter a bigger log 😉
Oh thanks. And I’m all ears about doing things better. So I just ran through the options in my head and I think I figured out where I could have done it differently… but with only two, single-wheel pulleys I can’t figure out a mechanical advantage gain that doesn’t loose the change of direction required for the work. Am I missing something? I’d have to attach the pulley and rope directly to the ATV, and the same at the load end to get 4x, right? But the road and the required direction of effort were 90° perpendicular. Maybe that wasn’t clear in the video. This stuff is so fun I should buy more snatch blocks! :)
@@lumberingshenanigans To get a 4 to 1 advantage you can attach the first pulley to the load as you had then tie the second pulley to the end of the rope. Feed the rope through the first pulley and run it back to the anchor tree. Tie a loop and strap it to the anchor tree. Now run the free end back up through the second pulley. Pulling on the free end should now give a 4 to 1 advantage. You should also be able to change the direction of pull to some extent. Start with the two pulleys close to each. You may need to reset if the second pulley gets back to the anchor. It's a bit awkward to describe in words. Wish I could attach a diagram 😉 I fully agree that it is fun to set these rigs up and very satisfying when big things start moving with less effort.
@hooks2998 If you’re on Instagram you can message me @lumberingshenanigans …because yeah, a diagram would be much easier to understand. But either way, thanks for taking the time to comment and help a newbie figure stuff out. :)
It’s the Woodchuck TimberPro Timberjack - on Amazon for $148 right now. I got it after my wood-handled timberjack split. It’s heavy, but no complaints about it so far. Worth mentioning, that stump you see me moving wasn’t in the ground, it was just left over trash from clearing the road last year.
@@lumberingshenanigans thank you for the clarification on the stump. I did see that the roots were cut. I would imagine that it could be used to assist in exposing the root ball to be cut on small stumps.
It’s specifically designed for turning logs, and prop them up off the ground for sawing. But it’s basically a big ol’ leverage device with a really strong hook… I would say it’ll help in any situation where you have to leverage something the hook can dig into. Thanks again for watching! :)
It’s really not. I’m using a 6ft “heavy duty brush grubber” choke chain (amzn.to/3twLrLX - affiliate link) which has three strands of chain, each with links that have teeth to grip logs and brush without slipping. A very useful tool in forestry. They do make a lighter weight version, but it’s only 4ft long, which will only fit around a log about one foot thick, and since I’m only going to buy one chain, it has to be capable of doing all the work I need to do, like dragging this 3,000lb log that’s 20” thick, or 5.2ft around. Thanks for watching! :)
Thanks Sir Prancealott, I usually do wear steel toe boots and chainsaw chaps, which you’ll see if many of my other videos. But It’s these kind of comments that will ring a bell in my mind and make me remember ppe next time I reach for the chainsaw. Even if it’s just a little electric one. Thanks for watching, and for doing your part to keep everyone, including me, safe. :)
Just a quick heads up, if you push those 6amp hour batteries, trying to get one more cut out of it, They burn out and die! Ive killed so many of them. The 6mps are shite. The 9amp hours arnt too bad but for some reason, the slightest abuse and they give in never to be returned lol shame, dewalt 54v stuff (60volt if you're US and you sound like youre a hybrid lol) is amazing kit, its their batteries that let the side down 😅
Oh that’s a very interesting bit of info. Thanks. I suppose it’s the same thing as running down solar batteries below a certain threshold. Top tip! Although I’ve been doing that for a couple of years 🤣 and haven’t seen one die… yet. Batteries are definitely going to have get better as new technology (or old, like sodium) come to market. I try and reserve my bank of 9Ahs to use in my honking PowerStation to run the table saw and other 120v stuff in the off grid workshop. I’ll keep ab eye on the 6Ahs and see how they fair. Thanks again for the tip. And yup, a Brit in the US. Thanks for watching! :)
@@lumberingshenanigans Well it's commonly known in the off-roading community as dangerous - people have gotten hurt and much worse. The ball hitch is designed for downward, consistent pressure and pulling from that standpoint. When using ball hitches, they are not designed for lateral (especially jerky) pulling as much, and have been known to come undone, hurling into people/vehicles. You can get a hitch shackle that's designed for pulling/towing. I personally was pulling an old vehicle across a dirt road with my Polaris using just the ball hitch and it came undone because (I believe) of the up and down motions caused by the uneven ground. But if the ball hitch breaks off, it could/will hurl in the opposite direction and the projectile would be quite dangerous or damaging. In my case, the rope simply came undone, and there was no one behind me so I didn't worry much. I actually have a shackle that mounts to the hitch, was just lazy that day. So, in general, I would advise against it.
@indigatorveritatis7343 I see, that’s solid advice for using hitches in general. Thank you for sharing. In this instance I think the very small amount of load without jerkiness was fine (the whole idea of using block and tackle is to reduce the load by increasing the distance, the result being a lighter and more steady force requirement) so I stand by the convenience of just popping a loop over the hitch in this instance. That’s said, rewatching the clip now I can see a “safer” way would have been to tie the rope around the vertical post directly under the hitch, or even better to use a hook, clip, or lockable carabiner perhaps.
@@lumberingshenanigans I agree, it's a case by case thing. As long as we know the limits, should be fine. You can also put the loop of the snatch strap inside the hitch and secure it through with the holding pin. But that can tear up your strap if you're towing at angles. For less than $50, I find the shackle hitch pretty convenient and safe
Thanks for the link. That’s a really cool tool, and an impressive looking build. It might be useful for smaller logs (the specs say max 15” and the smallest of the two logs I had to move was over 18”. But my main limitation for any of that kind of beefy equipment is my baby atv’s towing capacity of only 600lbs. Love seeing all the cool gear though. Thanks. :)
Not yet! But I did snap my last one, it was from a company called “ironton” made of wood, it lasted maybe three uses. This one is from woodchuck and seems built to be abused. Heavy duty all metal, and I highly recommend it. Thanks for watching! :)
@@lumberingshenanigans I bent my lumberjack handle straight away. It replaced a tractor supply version that I wrecked outright. My wood handled peavey is doing just fine, handles all I throw at it ;) I’m predominantly working with oak from 7” dia. by 35’ to 18” dia. and minimum 8’ length.
Was yours the same one I have? From Woodchuck? Specifically mine is: “Woodchuck Tools TimberPro Timberjack” i think I paid about $150 for it. I can’t imagine being able to bend this thing with the kind of loads I’m shifting, but I guess anything is possible.
Lol, he has never used a block and tackle system, AND IT IS OBVIOUS. Nice try there English, but when you are ready for true instruction, bring your stuff to me You have a LOT of money in it obviously, but don't know how to use it!
Also...next time you have a log and where you are cutting is elevated you dont have to go from the bottom...thats how you get your bar pinched. You were lucky to free it up after a couple yanks. Also...take the advice i read about steel toe boots...that first cut you made left logs at least 400 lbs. each. drop on those footsies you will have some great blooper footage
Hey thanks for sharing your opinion. I have many many reasons for not wanting (or needing) a gas chainsaw, but we all have our own reasons for the tools we choose. That said, I would encourage you to take a look at the newer electrics (including the Stihl if you’re brand loyal) with an open mind. They may not fit every need, but there are definite benefits. The new 20” DeWalt outperforms 50cc gas saws on torque by over 2x, has the same peak performance cutting power as the 50cc Stihl 271 and the price is actually lower. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I use both regularly an yeah a gas one is a lot more powerful but I’ve felled many big trees with my makita battery one. It’s a safer machine and much easier maintenance. Just a sharp chain, full batteries and some oil and your good to go. Sometimes you just need a quieter, less messy machine that will do the job.
Hahah. I feel where you’re coming from, but I don’t take issue with people who cringe when they see someone doing something they wouldn’t do themselves. But I bet there are plenty of folks on here who wear a lot less safety gear than they would suggest other people wear. ;)
![#5 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Block Pulleys and 21:1 Mechanical Advantage [4K 60FPS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5DWwYs9hTnI/mqdefault.jpg)
![#5 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Block Pulleys and 21:1 Mechanical Advantage [4K 60FPS]](/img/tr.png)
I am interested and learning rope pulley. I wish you would have explained how you set it up I learned Nothing by watching you do it😢
This was my first time using pulleys. Ever. So I was in no position to be teaching anyone how to do it. But there are dozens of extremely detailed how to videos on here if you look. Good luck!
Talk to me
I figure them out pretty easily
I have built systems at my house for them
I just don't like the knots he is using
Let's start with the line and the carabineer he is using are too small for the job.
He sets up a redirect over the anchor. He has only one snatch block ar the load, and now one as a redirect over
I use a flip-flop winch for big logs like that out in the woods away from power equipment. It's slower and a bit lbor intensive but it will move anything that your rope is strong enough to move
Hey. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m not familiar with that term. Is that like a “come-a-long” ratchet type thing?
you can use a bowline knot than those over hand knots. bowline with yosemite finish will be easier to untie than those overhands😬
Oh thank you. Yes. Knots are a constant problem for me. My brain is a sponge for most things, but for some reason when it comes to knots I can never remember them. I even have a couple of little field guides on them, but they never sink in. 😏 I’m sure repetition would help, and now I know which knot to try first. Thanks for watching. :)
Had a neighbor offer his advice on using a gas saw over the same electric…. And I only have to use it to trim branches etc before loading up my electric mill…. So I used the gas stihl on my next day of logs. When the neighbor who works nights came over and said “what the hell?!”…. I told him to go talk to the first neighbor🤣🤣🤣. They both strongly favor the electric option now. Right tool I guess😉
LOL - Yup, the lack of engine noise is the number one reason. Followed by the lack of exhaust smell. Followed by the lack of needing to get gas and carry it. Followed by my lack of engine servicing know-how. I’m sure the list goes on and on.
Thanks for being the first person to agree with me. 😎
Love using snatch blocks and block and tackle. It's definitely an art. Gotta say though, not making me want a Dewalt chains saw.
Haha. Thanks for the comment. The first time using block and tackle was a learning experience and a fun sense of accomplishment. :) As for the electric chainsaw, I love it, quiet, no exhaust, feels a LOT safer to me than a gas saw. But I can totally see how this version would seem… underpowered to gas users. I’d definitely suggest checking out the new 20” model from them. It’s 4hp and claims to have up to 25 MORE torque than a comparable gas saw. Much beefier construction too. I haven’t tried it yet, but plan to get one when this one dies. amzn.to/45CtgD5 (affiliate link) - Anyway, as a non-pro I really have no complaints about even my early model 16” - I’ve been using it for a couple of years now and the biggest issue I have run into is just other people’s perceptions of it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ But I’m not here to convince anyone, just out here doing my thing. Thanks for watching! :)
Good stuff. I'm a huge proponent of the block and tackle, but they do take some learning. I remind people all the time that rope and pulleys were moving the world long before there was anything like modern chain, ratchet straps, etc. If you get a chance, grab yourself a copy of the Ashley Book of Knots. There's no better book for a gent working in the woods, imo. You'll learn heaps about how to rig ropes, use pulley systems, and it's just plain fun, too.
That’s solid advice! I really do need to learn some proper knots, but I think there’s too much other junk in the part of my brain where that stuff is supposed to live - I just can’t seem to learn and recall them. LOL
@@lumberingshenanigans Oh, don't I know how that goes!! I have to practice the knots regularly just to keep them straight in my noggin. The bowline is a must-have, but most of the others are just nice to have. If you get a copy of the Ashley Book of Knots, you'll always have it on hand to reference... and there's a gob of ideas in it regarding pulleys and such. Very old school stuff, honestly, and perfect for the homestead. I'll look forward to seeing what you get up to next.
He sets up a redirect over the anchor. He has only one snatch block ar the load, and now one as a redirect over the anchor.
Whats the battery chainsaw like anyway? Got a ms880 stihl but wantes something smaller for light work. Is it powerful enough? Seems to go through that log quite easily?
Oh I absolutely LOVE my 16” 60v electric chainsaw and hate my 12” 20v one. DeWalt stopped making the 16” a while back. They have an 18” 2ish horsepower one, and the new big boy toy 20” @ 4hp which is as big as I’ll ever need. Metal parts, real dogs, beefy looking. I’ve read good reviews of the stihl electric too, but I’m so invested in DeWalt infrastructure I’ll stick with the yellow for now.
I put most of that info in the video description, with links and stuff for anyone else who’s interested.
Here´s a tip mate: Put some steel toe cap boots on when you´re moving and cutting big lumber. You won´t ever regret it.
Haha. Yup. I knew someone was going to notice the one time I didn’t wear mine on camera. Thanks for watching, and for looking out for my toes. :)
I used to work for the railroad.
They had rules about steel toe boots. I have to say I was absolutely shocked to know the truth about steel toes and the aftermath of them.
After I seen what happened to several peoples feet because of them I refused to ever wear another pair. I'll take a broken foot any day and anytime over having a quarter to a third of my foot sheared off.
The steel toe is actually rated at a low weight at like 6-8 feet. The weight tested is only like 8-15 pounds.
With that said when they get exceeded and failed what happens is the cap gets rolled back and you guessed it shears the end of your foot depending on the weight. One man I knew lost his portion of foot over a twenty eight pound part coming off a shelf.
If your going to wear them know their limitations. I have had a broken foot before from a farm accident it was across the metatarsal and it sucked bad, but a lot less than the co worker I met years later
that got his foot amputated by his boot he thought was there to save his foot.
@wayne251975 Thanks for that. I’ve heard stories like that before, and they go through my mind every time I put my steel boots on. Luckily I’m not dealing with situations that fall outside their rates use often, if at all. I simply don’t do much heavy stuff. Mostly I wear them because I use my feet a lot when clearing trails. Kicking duff and topsoil away, so it’s as much about protecting the boots as my toes. But yeah if my truck ever runs over my toes you’re probably right, better to break a few bones than loose all your toes.
@@lumberingshenanigans nothing wrong with wanting to protect yourself.
I used to feel many of the PPE that we use possibly made us less safe as so many rely on it instead of taking measures also or eliminate the threat altogether.
I'm not one of the "that's dumb" crowd but much of what we do has been safetied to death.
Awareness is probably the best PPE you could have but the better option is use common sense, Some PPE , and don't fall into the trap of no worries or other extreme of "that's unsafe" you need to be bubble wrapped. Respect the work, keeping awareness strong and common sense has served me well for many years.
@wayne251975 I just watched a chainsaw video from @bushradical where he said basically the same thing. PPE is all well and good as long a you understand it’s not going to protect you from the things that can go wrong if you let it give you a false sense of security. And a carpenter friend of mine always says, safety gear is great until it gets in the way of being safe. Like eye protection that fogs up while you’re using a tablesaw, or gloves that get caught in the belt sander are more dangerous than working without them.
they have a new snatch block out that has no moving parts check them out .they use only rope
Good job 👏
Aww 🙏 thanks for watching. :)
Hi here in England I admire your work , looks a great job . The power of physics hey ?
Thanks Paul. Great to know folks from back home are watching. :)
Great video. It may be worth noting that you are actually only getting a 2 to 1 advantage with this rigging. The second snatch block is only acting to change the direction of pull.
Two snatch blocks can be rigged to give a 4 to 1 advantage but I guess 2 to 1 was good enough in this application.
Something to keep in mind if you encounter a bigger log 😉
Oh thanks. And I’m all ears about doing things better. So I just ran through the options in my head and I think I figured out where I could have done it differently… but with only two, single-wheel pulleys I can’t figure out a mechanical advantage gain that doesn’t loose the change of direction required for the work. Am I missing something? I’d have to attach the pulley and rope directly to the ATV, and the same at the load end to get 4x, right? But the road and the required direction of effort were 90° perpendicular. Maybe that wasn’t clear in the video. This stuff is so fun I should buy more snatch blocks! :)
@@lumberingshenanigans To get a 4 to 1 advantage you can attach the first pulley to the load as you had then tie the second pulley to the end of the rope. Feed the rope through the first pulley and run it back to the anchor tree. Tie a loop and strap it to the anchor tree. Now run the free end back up through the second pulley. Pulling on the free end should now give a 4 to 1 advantage. You should also be able to change the direction of pull to some extent. Start with the two pulleys close to each. You may need to reset if the second pulley gets back to the anchor.
It's a bit awkward to describe in words. Wish I could attach a diagram 😉
I fully agree that it is fun to set these rigs up and very satisfying when big things start moving with less effort.
@hooks2998 If you’re on Instagram you can message me @lumberingshenanigans …because yeah, a diagram would be much easier to understand. But either way, thanks for taking the time to comment and help a newbie figure stuff out. :)
What was that lever that you used to pull out the stump and where can I find one.
It’s the Woodchuck TimberPro Timberjack - on Amazon for $148 right now. I got it after my wood-handled timberjack split. It’s heavy, but no complaints about it so far.
Worth mentioning, that stump you see me moving wasn’t in the ground, it was just left over trash from clearing the road last year.
@@lumberingshenanigans thank you for the clarification on the stump. I did see that the roots were cut. I would imagine that it could be used to assist in exposing the root ball to be cut on small stumps.
It’s specifically designed for turning logs, and prop them up off the ground for sawing. But it’s basically a big ol’ leverage device with a really strong hook… I would say it’ll help in any situation where you have to leverage something the hook can dig into. Thanks again for watching! :)
That chain looks like overkill
It’s really not. I’m using a 6ft “heavy duty brush grubber” choke chain (amzn.to/3twLrLX - affiliate link) which has three strands of chain, each with links that have teeth to grip logs and brush without slipping. A very useful tool in forestry. They do make a lighter weight version, but it’s only 4ft long, which will only fit around a log about one foot thick, and since I’m only going to buy one chain, it has to be capable of doing all the work I need to do, like dragging this 3,000lb log that’s 20” thick, or 5.2ft around. Thanks for watching! :)
good luck with that footware and no chaps
Thanks Sir Prancealott, I usually do wear steel toe boots and chainsaw chaps, which you’ll see if many of my other videos. But It’s these kind of comments that will ring a bell in my mind and make me remember ppe next time I reach for the chainsaw. Even if it’s just a little electric one. Thanks for watching, and for doing your part to keep everyone, including me, safe. :)
Just a quick heads up, if you push those 6amp hour batteries, trying to get one more cut out of it, They burn out and die! Ive killed so many of them. The 6mps are shite. The 9amp hours arnt too bad but for some reason, the slightest abuse and they give in never to be returned lol shame, dewalt 54v stuff (60volt if you're US and you sound like youre a hybrid lol) is amazing kit, its their batteries that let the side down 😅
Oh that’s a very interesting bit of info. Thanks. I suppose it’s the same thing as running down solar batteries below a certain threshold. Top tip! Although I’ve been doing that for a couple of years 🤣 and haven’t seen one die… yet.
Batteries are definitely going to have get better as new technology (or old, like sodium) come to market. I try and reserve my bank of 9Ahs to use in my honking PowerStation to run the table saw and other 120v stuff in the off grid workshop. I’ll keep ab eye on the 6Ahs and see how they fair. Thanks again for the tip. And yup, a Brit in the US. Thanks for watching! :)
I wouldn't attach to the ball hitch... from experience
Would you care to share your reasoning, and what you would do instead? So we can all learn from your experience.
@@lumberingshenanigans Well it's commonly known in the off-roading community as dangerous - people have gotten hurt and much worse. The ball hitch is designed for downward, consistent pressure and pulling from that standpoint. When using ball hitches, they are not designed for lateral (especially jerky) pulling as much, and have been known to come undone, hurling into people/vehicles. You can get a hitch shackle that's designed for pulling/towing. I personally was pulling an old vehicle across a dirt road with my Polaris using just the ball hitch and it came undone because (I believe) of the up and down motions caused by the uneven ground. But if the ball hitch breaks off, it could/will hurl in the opposite direction and the projectile would be quite dangerous or damaging. In my case, the rope simply came undone, and there was no one behind me so I didn't worry much. I actually have a shackle that mounts to the hitch, was just lazy that day. So, in general, I would advise against it.
@@lumberingshenanigans I live in Hawaii, so you might call those different components by other names. But that's the general concept
@indigatorveritatis7343 I see, that’s solid advice for using hitches in general. Thank you for sharing. In this instance I think the very small amount of load without jerkiness was fine (the whole idea of using block and tackle is to reduce the load by increasing the distance, the result being a lighter and more steady force requirement) so I stand by the convenience of just popping a loop over the hitch in this instance.
That’s said, rewatching the clip now I can see a “safer” way would have been to tie the rope around the vertical post directly under the hitch, or even better to use a hook, clip, or lockable carabiner perhaps.
@@lumberingshenanigans I agree, it's a case by case thing. As long as we know the limits, should be fine. You can also put the loop of the snatch strap inside the hitch and secure it through with the holding pin. But that can tear up your strap if you're towing at angles. For less than $50, I find the shackle hitch pretty convenient and safe
You can also build a log trailer for your quad bike. 👍🏼
ruclips.net/video/qTu4c1xs_ak/видео.html
Thanks for the link. That’s a really cool tool, and an impressive looking build. It might be useful for smaller logs (the specs say max 15” and the smallest of the two logs I had to move was over 18”. But my main limitation for any of that kind of beefy equipment is my baby atv’s towing capacity of only 600lbs. Love seeing all the cool gear though. Thanks. :)
You haven't bent your Lumberjack ;)
Not yet! But I did snap my last one, it was from a company called “ironton” made of wood, it lasted maybe three uses. This one is from woodchuck and seems built to be abused. Heavy duty all metal, and I highly recommend it. Thanks for watching! :)
@@lumberingshenanigans I bent my lumberjack handle straight away. It replaced a tractor supply version that I wrecked outright. My wood handled peavey is doing just fine, handles all I throw at it ;) I’m predominantly working with oak from 7” dia. by 35’ to 18” dia. and minimum 8’ length.
Was yours the same one I have? From Woodchuck? Specifically mine is: “Woodchuck Tools TimberPro Timberjack” i think I paid about $150 for it. I can’t imagine being able to bend this thing with the kind of loads I’m shifting, but I guess anything is possible.
Dewalt better supply you with a lifetime pro discount
Ha! I wish! I love DeWalt and would gladly accept any discount they care to throw at me. Sadly I think I’m wayyyyy under their radar. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Lol, he has never used a block and tackle system, AND IT IS OBVIOUS.
Nice try there English, but when you are ready for true instruction, bring your stuff to me
You have a LOT of money in it obviously, but don't know how to use it!
lol battery operated chansaws suck if youre doing real cutting. Could have gotten yourself a nice Stihl for what you paid for that overpriced DeWalt
Also...next time you have a log and where you are cutting is elevated you dont have to go from the bottom...thats how you get your bar pinched. You were lucky to free it up after a couple yanks. Also...take the advice i read about steel toe boots...that first cut you made left logs at least 400 lbs. each. drop on those footsies you will have some great blooper footage
Hey thanks for sharing your opinion. I have many many reasons for not wanting (or needing) a gas chainsaw, but we all have our own reasons for the tools we choose.
That said, I would encourage you to take a look at the newer electrics (including the Stihl if you’re brand loyal) with an open mind. They may not fit every need, but there are definite benefits. The new 20” DeWalt outperforms 50cc gas saws on torque by over 2x, has the same peak performance cutting power as the 50cc Stihl 271 and the price is actually lower. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I use both regularly an yeah a gas one is a lot more powerful but I’ve felled many big trees with my makita battery one.
It’s a safer machine and much easier maintenance. Just a sharp chain, full batteries and some oil and your good to go. Sometimes you just need a quieter, less messy machine that will do the job.
@torque8899 I totally agree, just because sledge hammers exist, doesn’t mean you need one to pound down a nail.
To many safety Sallies in this comment section , you'd think it was sponsered by OSHA , I hate OSHA !!!
Hahah. I feel where you’re coming from, but I don’t take issue with people who cringe when they see someone doing something they wouldn’t do themselves. But I bet there are plenty of folks on here who wear a lot less safety gear than they would suggest other people wear. ;)