A tip for installing the 82mm inlaid ring... clip it to the Revolution lens cap first, then hand screw it onto your lens; it will screw in without cross threading (plastic tool can then be used to snug as needed). I have a 16-35 lens and it makes a huge difference compared to the standard ring - at 16mm using the inlaid ring and any single filter there is barely any vignetting. Give it a try and see if it works for you. And, thanks for the great video; always thorough and very educational!
the Kase 112mm wolverine kit is wonderful. I got mine a year or so ago after your recommendation and never looked back. I used this in the Galapagos to great affect last year on the z70-200mm f2.8 using the UV and polariser primarily. AWESOME. Thanks Hudson
My thinking now is that it makes practical sense to put a screw on UV on most of my lenses for protection and leave it there most of the time - maybe take it off for the moment when I am taking a shot or when I am sticking on an ND type filter. So, just a good quality glass plain screw in UV filter with screw threads on both sides that will hold my standard pinch type plastic cap is where I think I am ending up. I'll use my 82mm Kase set on all my lenses which are 82 and under and I already own them. I will likely sell my 77mm Kase filters. Should have listened to you from the get go. Frankly, I wish I went with 95 or bigger from the get go.
Thanks for this - I have the 82mm Wolverine kit, since my biggest thread was 82mm (14-30 f/4) - I realised the recommendation was 95mm to avoid vignetting when stacking, but stacking is rare for me and this was an extra £100! 112mm would be financially prohibitive, but I know one day, when I eventually get the 14-24, I will find this a painful need...
Great video, Hudson, thank you. What's your opinion on graduated ND filters? I was about to pull the trigger on the Kase Armour system so that I could use a graduated ND as I had seen lots of traditional landscape photographers using these in photography books that I've read. But it seems that with my 28, the dynamic range is good enough so that I don't need one. I'm fairly new to landscape photography so l'm not sure, but I want to make sure I'm investing I the right gear from the start. I wondered what your thoughts were?
I just got the 112 mm, a gift. 😊 however, with the 6:14 inlaid adaptor attached to the HB-97 there is always light leak. You don’t seem to have this problem??? I contacted the place where my filters were bought and they contacted Kase. Apparently this is a common problem and in fact the forums in the web are full of comments on the issue. One of the viewers commented that the regular screw adaptor instead of the inlaid adaptor results is a better fit for the filters without any movements inside the hood. And I agree, and I also noticed that with the screw adaptor the is no light leaks (at least that I have noticed so far) but there is a slight vignetting when more than one filter is attached. Finally I also read that other manufacturers have designed a different hood to replace the HB-97, including Kase to deal with the light leak issue. At this time, I think that the screw adaptor rather than the inlaid adaptor is the way to go to avoid light leak. I really appreciate your comments.
@@gilbertovera9650 no absolutely not. Thousands of images. Some with 16stops for minutes of exposure in midday sun. Not with that hood and adapter mounted on the 14-24, 14-30, 24-70 or 70-200. I've sold hundreds of sets of these filters and worked with many dozens of workshop students using them. Never once a light leak myself, nor a complaint from a client. Sorry. I can't even replicate that in the studio with hot lights. Feel free to email me if you have an example. I've never seen one. I tried the Nisi hood. It's heavy, awkward, poorly designed so it only fits the 14-24 instead of all the other lenses too, and to me it's far inferior to the Nikon.
As always, a PHENOMENAL coverage of a photo topic. I have two questions: 1. Unless I missed it, there was one thing I did not hear in this video, "Why do the Revolution filters exist?". Said another way, "What is Kase hoping to achieve with this new filter line that improves on the Wolverine line?". 2. The one thing that keeps me from tossing my bespoke lens-size specific threaded filters in exchange for a single large universal-size magnetic filter as you suggest is the inability to use them with the camera manufacturer's lens hood. I typically keep my lens hood on all the time and do not use lens caps at all (the lens cap stay in the lens's original box until I eventually sell the lens). This is space inefficient in my backpack, as the hooded-lenses take up more space, but is super efficient when changing lenses, especially as all my lenses are primes and I am constantly changing them. One thing that keeps me from using a lot of filters in general is the need to remove the hood and screw the adapter ring or the filter itself to the front of the lens each time I want to use them. I can't leave the adapter ring on the lens, as the hood won't fit. In fact, sometimes a filter's knurled ring is too big for the hood, even for filters that are the correct size for the lens (big polarizers, for example). One thing I learned from this video is there a super low-profile magnetic ring adapter that fits inside the screw threads of the lens. I know you don't like the super low-profile magnetic ring adapter, but it sounds great to me. My idea would be to purchase one super low-profile magnetic ring adapter for each of my lenses and keep them in place all the time as they would not interfere with the hood. It would then be a simple matter to remove the hood when filters are needed and attach a single large universal-size the magnetic filter as you suggest, but only IF there are magnetic lens-size adapter rings. So that's my second question, are there magnetic filter-size adapter rings that are magnetic on both ends (lens side AND filter side), or are the adapter rings magnetic on only the filter side (ie, still need to be screwed into the lens)? In the case the adapter rings still need to be screwed into the front of the lens, I fail to see the value in magnetic filters, as the whole cross-threading thing is still an issue. Thank you in advance for your help in this matter.
I've got the same question about the super low-profile ring. It seems to make sense on the 14-24 F2.8 lens with the 112mm filter sizes because that doesn't require a step up ring. On the 14-30 F4 lens, a 82mm inner ring would also make sense. Other than that you would just screw in a magnetic step up ring when you wanted to use filters. My guess is that the inner ring is only for super wide angle lenses where vignetting would be an issue. The regular step up rings would be sufficient for all other focal lengths. Of course that doesn't help with being able to use the native lens hood. The option I guess is to just use the normal stepup ring and just remove it when your not using the filters.
I find it very fiddly to use a lens hood when I am setting up a shot with various ND filters etc. Its off and on over and over. PIA. I am probably just going to leave my lens hoods in the lens boxes.
In the first couple minute you mention that kit lacking a Night Sky and UV option. I'm sure you already know about the Maven Magnetic filters. They have those filters as well a larger variety of filter sizes.
I prefer the color rendition from Kase. The Revolution line is brand new and just fleshing out. The only thing missing for me is a 112 night and it's coming. For now the older wolverine line works fine and it's the exact same glass. The 112s are fully interchangeable.
I have the Z24-70mm f/2.8, Z14-24mm f/2.8 and Z50 f/1.2mm and I bought two extra Kase Wolverine threaded adapters, two extra Kase 112mm lens caps, two extra HB97 lens hoods so all three lenses are outfitted with the same system without having to hot swap...of course the Z85mm f/1.2 doesn't comply so an 82-112mm adapter is in order.
How smoothly does the CPL turn with the Revolution filter? I have tried other brands and the CPL does not turn smoothly which bothers me. Should I spend some extra money for the Kase?
I have the Kase Revolution in 112mm along with the Holy Trinity, and everything works perfectly. However, I noticed that the filters don't click into the magnetic inset ring; instead, they sit on top of it. Is this how it's supposed to be? When I use the standard magnetic ring, the filter fits snugly inside it and doesn't move at all.
Can you screw the inlaid magnetic ring into the Kase R-MCUV-Filter? This would keep the UV filter on securely while removing any other magetic stuff, even the magnetic lens cap.
You could sure, but I would never, ever stack a filter over UV. UV is a front element protector and dust catcher. When I have a shot that really matters, I pull it off to have the perfectly clean element beneath. If I'm using a creative filter like a cpl or ND. I pull the UV before mounting every time. The front element is now safe behind the creative filter. With the magnetic system doing this is a breeze. I just mount a magnetic ring or magnetic adapter ring on whatever lens I'm using and snap the uv or other magnetic filter in place when it leaves the bag. Simplicity itself.
@@HudsonHenryPhotoYou are absolutely right about stacking on top of UV, of course. I was thinking about the magnetic lens cap. I fear that removing the magnetic lens cap while using Kase's magnetic UV filter will pop off the UV filter as well. Or will this hold on enough that I can remove the lens cap indivudally without much fiddling?
The new revolution filters have a single filter thread in thier thin case that coincidentally allows the use of pinch caps which I vastly prefer for exactly that reason.
I tried the NiSi first. They sent me a set of 112s to check out when the Nikon 14-24 launched. Thier glass is great. I think the Kase is more durable and many times simpler to use. The magnetic system just slays any standard threaded system. You'll never go back. Kase's revolution and wolverine system are my preference after testing just about everyone's offerings. I left my Hoya ambassadorship to work with Kase after testing them.
Hi Hudson, late to the party here, but I’ve just got the 24-120mm S lens, which I’ll mainly use for static aircraft. I’d like to use a Kase CPL to reduce glare from cockpits etc. Would the 77-95mm step up and either the 82mm or 95mm be a good option?? I tried a friend’s 24-120mm S with a CPL and the results were great.
Hi Richard, I really never reccomend buying high quality creative filters smaller than 82mm. Eventually you'll take a turn where you need bigger than 77. It just happens. I think the 82 will be sufficient unless you get into ultra-wide work (14-30 or 14-24). I have links right here: shop.hudsonhenry.com/collections/82mm-filters Email me with any questions you have. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hi Hudson, thanks for quick response. That’s great, I’ll go with the 82mm filter. It’ll mainly be for cutting down the glare and reflection from static aircraft cockpits, although I do really want to start taking some landscape/woodland photos as well. Thanks for the link and greatly appreciate the advice.
I just discovered I can install the 82mm inlaid ring into my Nikkor 14-24 2.8S. You just press it it into the built-in petal mini hood. It has some circumferential kind of threads (not really threads). The ring sits about 1 mm inside the mini hood. When it is there, there is no vignetting. I use a Kase cap. When you add ONE filter, there is a small vignetting that disappears at 16mm. If you add two filters (an ND and a CPL), there is vignetting up to 18 mm. Seems to me that it can be handled in post. So that you guys know. For some trips it would allow me to travel without 112mm filters.
The 112 system in the hb97 hood is simplicity itself. Add that the simple hood snap clicks onto the 24-70 2.8 S, 70-200 S, 14-30 S & 50 1.2 S, and I really see no reason to jam a piece of metal up next to that special front element of the 14-24 S in order to use filters that vignette. I would urge people fortunate enough to own the 14-24S to use the 112 system as intended. I personally advocate tossing the smaller inlaid rings from Kase. I certainly won't use them.
Yes, I agree,@@HudsonHenryPhoto . I just did a bit more testing and that vignetting is awful. I am about to remove that ring and invest in the 112mm filter set (soon).
REVOLUTION all the way. The clip ins are a huge pain in the ass. HUGE. Once you try the Revolutions you will never go back to another system. I tried the internal clip in's way back when the Z6 / Z7 launched thinking they might be cool. I used them a couple times. I think they're still in a box somwhere in the studio. :-)
The biggest lens I have is an 82mm. So, Im thinking of going to a 95mm. One thing I wish they had was a step-up adapter built in with the magnetic adapter. Sucks that for my 70-100mm (77mm) and 24-70mm (82mm) lenses, I need an adapter to go to 95mm and then add the magnetic adapter on top. Would be better if it was an all in one system. Also, if I get a 16mm, wondering if these 95mm's will be good when double stacked. Would you recommend the Clear UV filter to be threaded on and never removed, then a step-up ring and the magnetic adapter. Or perhaps a magnetic Uv filter that's removable?
I think that in practice you'd find that super annoying. I LOVE the fact that the revolution design has just enough edge to trap a pinch cap so that I don't have to use magnetic caps. Why? It's very hard to pull the cap without taking the filter off too. The same would be true of magnetic adapter rings. You'll find the rings spin on in 2 seconds every time. Keep them in an easy to access pocket in the bag and spin them on as you pull the lens out. It's like taking off the cap. NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT. Consider a threaded UV like a protective 2nd lens cap to catch dust and grime. Pull it before shooting your best images, esepciallin backlight. If you're adding another fitler, it's useless and can only serve to degrade image quality. Yep, you'll be fine with stacking with a 16mm. It's fine stacking the 95s in front of Nikon's 14-30. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I don't want to use magnetic lens caps. But it would be nice if the step up rings were also magnetic, allowing for both. So, if I'm correct, I'll have to get a step up ring with a magnetic inlet ring. But, I'm still debating on the size. My 24-70mm is an 82mm diameter. I would prefer not to go to a 95mm if I don't need to. But, worried it may vignette. I don't have a 16-35mm yet, so I can test vignetting - but I think it's a 72mm diameter
I go with Kase over other filters because the adapter rings actually freaking hold Nikon lens caps snuggly. No other filter set does this (even Maven), the lens caps easily fall off the adapter rings. In addition, the magnetic lens caps are flat for EVERY brand and can’t be pinched to remove off, this is really annoying when you have a magnetic lens cap on a lens with a longer hood. I don’t know why more people don’t complain about this but they don’t. So, I find Kase superior because I can use the magnetic lens cap OR my original lens cap and it fits perfectly on the adapter ring. This is HUGE for using your camera day by day while keeping the adapters on all your lenses at all times. I have no idea if this is something Kase filters do my a happy coincidence, or if they designed it this way, but they’re the only ones I know that allow you to attach a traditional lens cap over the filters and filter rings.
I bought your 112mm set and they work great. Even bought an extra HB97 hood. Not sure I would change just for the color coding but nice idea. By the way, what are three color rings for on your tripod? Ever thought of an Alaskan workshop? Thanks as always.
We will get to Alaska. I've spent a lot time from ANWR to Wrangel and the Alaska Range. I use that colored gaff tape to mark my tripods from all the other identical ones in my sprinter on workshops. Everyone loves them and once someone tries one out they bring one on their second or third workshop. :-)
Yes. It's the best of the systems available for people who continue to insist on using graduated filters. I see no reason on earth to put an artificial contrast line through the middle of an image, darkening trees and mountains rising above the contrast line and leaving highlights overexposed below the contrast line. Why do that when we modern photograpghers can so easily bracket 3 frames, 3 stops apart and blend them into a single linear raw file with all that rich exposure lattitude to raw process framewide? I used graduated filters all the time 20 years ago. A dozen years ago on Art Wolfe's advice, I started bracketing and blending shadow detail in using a soft brush on photoshop layers. Now I bracket 3stops apart and click merge to HDR in lightroom. BAM framewide boost of 6 stop exposure lattitude before I start processing the raw shadows and highlights. It even works handheld. When I see graduated filters in the field I shake my head these days...
Thanks for introducing these fantastic accessories I have ordered a lens cap for my 800mm, can't wait for it to come. A chance of you lobbying Nikon to update their software so the Pro Capture works with Raw files instead of JPEG ?
One thing I ask when the discussion about using UV filters comes up is if I show you a picture can you tell if it was taken with or without a UV filter?
Hi this was an interesting video I have the Wolverine filters I am only just learning how to use them. Would you be able to tell me if I needed to use the CPL, ND, & GRAD filter can they be used together if so what order please. 😀 I am new to these so just not sure 😀
I'd advocate never using the grad filter at all. Bracket and combine exposures instead without adding an unnatural contrast line through the center of your images. Search my channel for "high constrast" for more on that. Grads do far more harm than good. You can add ND atop a cpl whenever you want the polarizing effect (to add contrast or control reelections), but be careful with ultrawide angles not to differently polarize the sky.
Watch this: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html It's a few clicks in lightroom to create a file with all the bracketed images' combined dynamic range. Simple
Will the Nikon Z 14-30mm f4 lens work with 82mm kit? With the inlaid system, can you put 2 filters (a CPL and ND) and not get vignetting at 14mm? Or do I need to get 95mm version? My other lenses are all 77mm. Confused on what to buy.
@@kalhana_photography you might get to 14 vignette free with 1 filter, not 2 and I really don't like the inlaid system. It's not that great. Go with 95 for sure! Then you'll have that ripping strong magnetic connection and be able to stack at will.
No. You want the filters you use in high-contrast, backlight (only ND for me) to be coated sure, but my advice is to pull any protectivr uv or polarizing filter before shooting into high contrast backlight (say a sunstar or sunset with the disc rimming) to leave only your perfectly clean coated front element and avoid little ghosts from dust and lack of uv filter coatings. The best uv and cpl filters like the Kase wolverine/revolution line in my store and Hoya's HD3s are so well made and coated that they do not cause any ghosting themselves, but they will get dust and schmutz on them that cause it. Think of them as way to keep your actual front element clean and ready for high-contrast, backlit scenes.
I am looking to purchase the 112mm filters for the 12-24/2.8 (I also have the 70-200/2.8 and 24-120/4). I was leaning towards the Revolution series since that is the way the company is heading. I also want the neutral night filter and can purchase that separately. Alternatively I could buy the more expensive kit but that is not a Revolution series. Would really like your input. Thanks!
If you have time, I'm pushing them hard to get the night filter added to Revolution and get me kits with them included. I'm not sure how long it will take. Till then all the 112s are fully interchangeable, so you could buy the smaller kit and add it. I wish I had more options, but they don't yet exist.... Remember if you get 3 Kase items in my store you do get a discount applied automatically, so with an adapter ring you'd be there.
The 112s are identical. Only the smaller filters (ie 82s) are ever so slightly smaller. The 112s for the 14-24 are fully interchangeable with wolverines as I show in this video and I've stacked three on that lens with zero vignetting. :) www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
Yes and it is fabulous. I had them make special wolverine kits for me with the night filter included I love it so much. I have them over at my store as well as the night filters separate. It adds contrast to the night sky and filters out significant amounts of light pollution. www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
Again. I would never use the 82mm inlaid adapter on one of my lenses. The inlaid 112 is great in the HB-97 hood. I found the new 82 inlaid suitable for round filing. I no longer use either of those lenses, but I never had an issue with the 24-70 F4 vignetting with the wolverines and the standard threaded adapter before I traded it in on the 24-120. For the 2.8, the HB97 with 112s is magic just like it is on all the 2.8 zoom S lenses. Hope that helps.
@Hudson Henry Photography Sorry, I wasn't explicit. I'm actually a Sony shooter, so the 112 kit isn't really an option for me. I'm more just trying to get an idea if the inlaid ring will solve vignetting on wide zooms (e.g. the 24-70 GM II, 16-35 GM) because I tried the 82mm wolverine filters (non-revolution version) and found the vignetting unacceptable. I could go up to 95mm, but I'd much prefer to avoid that extra bulk and expense--especially if I'm putting adapter on my smaller primes. A small prime adapted to 82 mm isn't that much larger than a prime without the adapter, but a small prime with a 95mm adapter will no longer fit nicely in my Pelican case, and is prone to getting caught on the bottom of dividers in my bag.
I tried the 77 mm inlaid ring on my 17-40 Canon L, The Kase filters sit right without putting the inlaid ring on the lens. once I put the inlaid filter on the lens, I use the Kase CPL to make sure the ring sits right, the Kase filters do not sit flat. I tried this 3 times now with the same results. Has anyone run into this problem?
Again, the first thing I did with the inlaid ring was round file it. It's fabulous in 112mm for the Nikon HB-97 hood. Put it in and the hood is a magnetic holder. For lenses with the smaller sizes, I can't advise you to use them. Use the standard threaded external magnetic ring. It's fabulous. I don't agree with stacking UV and specialty filters. Take the UV off before mounting a CPL or ND. Using the inlaid only reduces the magnetism and risks damaging the lens. Added to the lack of need is the single filter thread somehow incorporated into the new Kase Revolution filters. They're still as thin, but now you can use a pinch cap on them. :-) Love it.
so if I got this correct... A wolverine (say a 82mm Neutral night filter) will fit on a Revolution 82mm magnetic ring but the other way around (a Revolution 82mm filter won't fit on a 82mm wolverine ring). ???
There isn't any leak in that hood. Not that I've been able to discern in 100s and 100s of long exposure images in bright daylight even using 16stops of ND for noontime 120s exposures. I really think the complaint is bunk
I would appreciate some advice I will be spending a month in Nepal In November to early December I have a Z9 and the my 3 go to lens 14-24 24-70 70-200 all coming with me my filters are lee which i have updated over the years but weight on this trip is going to be a big issue and looking at changing to the Kase 112mm set but i do like my graduated filters can you assist with what would work best we will be hiking for 3 weeks over the 3 passes and EBC 160 Kms and over 5500 meters in height.
Sounds like a great trip. Wish I was coming. Here's my honest take. If I can do anything to convince you to abandon your graduated filters, please consider it. I did about 10 years ago and never looked back. Graduated filters in this day and age do far more harm than good. A simple bracketed set of 3 images 3 stops apart will allow you to capture all the tonal contrast of using a 6 stop neutral density filter through every single bit of your image. No more artificial contast line with half of a tree dark and half of the tree light. Forget stopping down incorrectly and carefully placing the filter. Simply turn on bracketing and shoot. Check out this video to see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html
If there is any way I can urge you to try bracketing instead... I specifically had sets of filters created by Kase excluding graduated filters since I believe they do far more harm to modern imagery than good. A well captured set of 3 images 3 stops apart. -3, on the meter, and plus 3 will give you all the tonal range you need. The camera can capture 14-15 stops these days. That technique gives you 20-21 stops of exposure latitude frame wide with a simple click in your editing suite of choice. Now you can recover shadows and highlight detail frame-wide without a darkened line across half your frame. :-) Here's a video I did a while back proving the point: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html I stopped using graduated filters except very rarely for timelapse or video over a dozen years ago and I lived by them in the film age. I had the full Galen Rowell Singh Ray set. I've been given Kase's Armour system to test and their K9. In both cases, I liked the K9 for square filter aficionados. Light and simple, but I had them create me a kit without any graduated filters in it. ;-) www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the reply. You don't have to sell me hard on not using graduated filters. I'm really trying to just keep it simple and I'm thinking about just starting with a CPL and ND filters. I was just wanting to see if in the future, I found a need for a GND filter, I would have the ability to use one with the base setup I go with. I'm trying to decide between the 82 and 112 Revolution sets. I don't have a need for the 112 filters yet, but think I may buy the 14-24 F2.8 in the future. However, if I went with the 14-30 F4, I could just stay with 82mm filters.
That's sort of true. I found the 14-30 vignetted with any 82mm filter up to about 18 or 20mm. It does accept the hb97 112mm filter hood along with all three 2.8 S zoom lenses and the 50 1.2. I can also get custom ordered 95mm filters with one extra day lead time in my store. Www.hudsonhenry.com/kase the Kase distributor conveniently lives across town. :) If you were to use grads later, Kase makes them, but a 100mm square system is really much much better for that (like the k9 system in my store). I've never found round grads good for much, even back in the days when I used grads.
@@mluu83 i have both kits granted my kase are 82mm and my mavin are 112mm, but the mags are much stronger and i actually really like the textured identifiers on maven. And lastly maven is a small brand by a single dedicated down to earth photographer and I really like that aspect
I love my Maven filters, but have no experience with the Kase filters! I really like the colour coding on the Maven filters and also the knurling that helps quickly see the type or strength of filter.
There's a reason I don't carry skyeye in my store. Www.hudsonhenry.com/kase They have a full filter thread in front to catch a traditional filter. You can't stack other magnetics with them, and they become thick and bulky with potential vignetting. All the great advantages of the revolution line are negated.
Hi can you put me a kit together 112mm with 3 stop 6 stop 10 stop and polarized filter with all the step down ring I need them to work on all the newest and the best z lens I would appreciate you putting me a kit to do it all thanks
That's all easily available at www.hudsonhenry.com/kase. You can email me if you need more help, but I'm in and out of data range in Yellowstone running a workshop so be patient. hi@hudsonhenry.com
A tip for installing the 82mm inlaid ring... clip it to the Revolution lens cap first, then hand screw it onto your lens; it will screw in without cross threading (plastic tool can then be used to snug as needed). I have a 16-35 lens and it makes a huge difference compared to the standard ring - at 16mm using the inlaid ring and any single filter there is barely any vignetting. Give it a try and see if it works for you. And, thanks for the great video; always thorough and very educational!
the Kase 112mm wolverine kit is wonderful. I got mine a year or so ago after your recommendation and never looked back. I used this in the Galapagos to great affect last year on the z70-200mm f2.8 using the UV and polariser primarily. AWESOME. Thanks Hudson
Thanks for sharing!
Really useful tips! I was really in doubt about which one to buy. They are not cheap, so optimizing is really important. Thanks for sharing!
@@jnetto we've sold a ton of these and never heard a single complaint. I dont leave home without mine. ;)
Thanks for the lighting fast shipping, I also need the 72-112 step up
We've got those too. :) thanks for the feedback!
Thank you Hudson! ordered 49-82mm step ring for my Wolverine 82mm filters to use on Q2...
I'm totally with you on the use of UV filters.
My thinking now is that it makes practical sense to put a screw on UV on most of my lenses for protection and leave it there most of the time - maybe take it off for the moment when I am taking a shot or when I am sticking on an ND type filter. So, just a good quality glass plain screw in UV filter with screw threads on both sides that will hold my standard pinch type plastic cap is where I think I am ending up. I'll use my 82mm Kase set on all my lenses which are 82 and under and I already own them. I will likely sell my 77mm Kase filters. Should have listened to you from the get go. Frankly, I wish I went with 95 or bigger from the get go.
Thanks for this - I have the 82mm Wolverine kit, since my biggest thread was 82mm (14-30 f/4) - I realised the recommendation was 95mm to avoid vignetting when stacking, but stacking is rare for me and this was an extra £100! 112mm would be financially prohibitive, but I know one day, when I eventually get the 14-24, I will find this a painful need...
Great video, Hudson, thank you. What's your opinion on graduated ND filters? I was about to pull the trigger on the Kase Armour system so that I could use a graduated ND as I had seen lots of traditional landscape photographers using these in photography books that I've read. But it seems that with my 28, the dynamic range is good enough so that I don't need one. I'm fairly new to landscape photography so l'm not sure, but I want to make sure I'm investing I the right gear from the start. I wondered what your thoughts were?
Incredible insight. Really considering the kit. But quite expensive for the 112mm. However, like you said, it covers all cases!
Nice to hear that the 112mm filters are more compatible in their fitting between the two series. 😎👍🏾🙏🏾
I just got the 112 mm, a gift. 😊 however, with the 6:14 inlaid adaptor attached to the HB-97 there is always light leak. You don’t seem to have this problem??? I contacted the place where my filters were bought and they contacted Kase. Apparently this is a common problem and in fact the forums in the web are full of comments on the issue. One of the viewers commented that the regular screw adaptor instead of the inlaid adaptor results is a better fit for the filters without any movements inside the hood. And I agree, and I also noticed that with the screw adaptor the is no light leaks (at least that I have noticed so far) but there is a slight vignetting when more than one filter is attached. Finally I also read that other manufacturers have designed a different hood to replace the HB-97, including Kase to deal with the light leak issue. At this time, I think that the screw adaptor rather than the inlaid adaptor is the way to go to avoid light leak. I really appreciate your comments.
@@gilbertovera9650 no absolutely not. Thousands of images. Some with 16stops for minutes of exposure in midday sun. Not with that hood and adapter mounted on the 14-24, 14-30, 24-70 or 70-200. I've sold hundreds of sets of these filters and worked with many dozens of workshop students using them. Never once a light leak myself, nor a complaint from a client. Sorry. I can't even replicate that in the studio with hot lights. Feel free to email me if you have an example. I've never seen one. I tried the Nisi hood. It's heavy, awkward, poorly designed so it only fits the 14-24 instead of all the other lenses too, and to me it's far inferior to the Nikon.
Hi can you please do a small section on the new Nikon hoods somehow find them very difficult to put on and off
As always, a PHENOMENAL coverage of a photo topic. I have two questions:
1. Unless I missed it, there was one thing I did not hear in this video, "Why do the Revolution filters exist?". Said another way, "What is Kase hoping to achieve with this new filter line that improves on the Wolverine line?".
2. The one thing that keeps me from tossing my bespoke lens-size specific threaded filters in exchange for a single large universal-size magnetic filter as you suggest is the inability to use them with the camera manufacturer's lens hood. I typically keep my lens hood on all the time and do not use lens caps at all (the lens cap stay in the lens's original box until I eventually sell the lens). This is space inefficient in my backpack, as the hooded-lenses take up more space, but is super efficient when changing lenses, especially as all my lenses are primes and I am constantly changing them. One thing that keeps me from using a lot of filters in general is the need to remove the hood and screw the adapter ring or the filter itself to the front of the lens each time I want to use them. I can't leave the adapter ring on the lens, as the hood won't fit. In fact, sometimes a filter's knurled ring is too big for the hood, even for filters that are the correct size for the lens (big polarizers, for example). One thing I learned from this video is there a super low-profile magnetic ring adapter that fits inside the screw threads of the lens. I know you don't like the super low-profile magnetic ring adapter, but it sounds great to me. My idea would be to purchase one super low-profile magnetic ring adapter for each of my lenses and keep them in place all the time as they would not interfere with the hood. It would then be a simple matter to remove the hood when filters are needed and attach a single large universal-size the magnetic filter as you suggest, but only IF there are magnetic lens-size adapter rings. So that's my second question, are there magnetic filter-size adapter rings that are magnetic on both ends (lens side AND filter side), or are the adapter rings magnetic on only the filter side (ie, still need to be screwed into the lens)? In the case the adapter rings still need to be screwed into the front of the lens, I fail to see the value in magnetic filters, as the whole cross-threading thing is still an issue.
Thank you in advance for your help in this matter.
I've got the same question about the super low-profile ring. It seems to make sense on the 14-24 F2.8 lens with the 112mm filter sizes because that doesn't require a step up ring. On the 14-30 F4 lens, a 82mm inner ring would also make sense. Other than that you would just screw in a magnetic step up ring when you wanted to use filters. My guess is that the inner ring is only for super wide angle lenses where vignetting would be an issue. The regular step up rings would be sufficient for all other focal lengths. Of course that doesn't help with being able to use the native lens hood. The option I guess is to just use the normal stepup ring and just remove it when your not using the filters.
I find it very fiddly to use a lens hood when I am setting up a shot with various ND filters etc. Its off and on over and over. PIA. I am probably just going to leave my lens hoods in the lens boxes.
In the first couple minute you mention that kit lacking a Night Sky and UV option. I'm sure you already know about the Maven Magnetic filters. They have those filters as well a larger variety of filter sizes.
I prefer the color rendition from Kase. The Revolution line is brand new and just fleshing out. The only thing missing for me is a 112 night and it's coming. For now the older wolverine line works fine and it's the exact same glass. The 112s are fully interchangeable.
I think I saw the Kase does have the night filter in the Revolution line. Could be wrong?
I've got them right here: shop.hudsonhenry.com/collections/filters
I have the Z24-70mm f/2.8, Z14-24mm f/2.8 and Z50 f/1.2mm and I bought two extra Kase Wolverine threaded adapters, two extra Kase 112mm lens caps, two extra HB97 lens hoods so all three lenses are outfitted with the same system without having to hot swap...of course the Z85mm f/1.2 doesn't comply so an 82-112mm adapter is in order.
Yeah I was bummed to find that with the 85, but It's been amazing in Havana this week anyway. Dream portrait lens. ;-)
Super Useful! Thank you
How smoothly does the CPL turn with the Revolution filter? I have tried other brands and the CPL does not turn smoothly which bothers me. Should I spend some extra money for the Kase?
I have the Kase Revolution in 112mm along with the Holy Trinity, and everything works perfectly. However, I noticed that the filters don't click into the magnetic inset ring; instead, they sit on top of it. Is this how it's supposed to be? When I use the standard magnetic ring, the filter fits snugly inside it and doesn't move at all.
Use the inlaid 112 ring. Not the tradtional knurled one.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto So not the one where you need the tool to screw in?
Can you screw the inlaid magnetic ring into the Kase R-MCUV-Filter? This would keep the UV filter on securely while removing any other magetic stuff, even the magnetic lens cap.
You could sure, but I would never, ever stack a filter over UV. UV is a front element protector and dust catcher. When I have a shot that really matters, I pull it off to have the perfectly clean element beneath. If I'm using a creative filter like a cpl or ND. I pull the UV before mounting every time. The front element is now safe behind the creative filter. With the magnetic system doing this is a breeze. I just mount a magnetic ring or magnetic adapter ring on whatever lens I'm using and snap the uv or other magnetic filter in place when it leaves the bag. Simplicity itself.
@@HudsonHenryPhotoYou are absolutely right about stacking on top of UV, of course. I was thinking about the magnetic lens cap. I fear that removing the magnetic lens cap while using Kase's magnetic UV filter will pop off the UV filter as well. Or will this hold on enough that I can remove the lens cap indivudally without much fiddling?
The new revolution filters have a single filter thread in thier thin case that coincidentally allows the use of pinch caps which I vastly prefer for exactly that reason.
I think using the inlaid ring will work fine if left installed on a step up ring, none of the fear of wrecking glass or lens threads.
Certainly an option in a step up, but a pain to remove is you need to adapt the step up further. The magnetic step ups are amazing and much simpler.
What do you think of the Kase circular polarizer CPL when compared to NISI CPL ?
I tried the NiSi first. They sent me a set of 112s to check out when the Nikon 14-24 launched. Thier glass is great. I think the Kase is more durable and many times simpler to use. The magnetic system just slays any standard threaded system. You'll never go back. Kase's revolution and wolverine system are my preference after testing just about everyone's offerings. I left my Hoya ambassadorship to work with Kase after testing them.
Hi Hudson, late to the party here, but I’ve just got the 24-120mm S lens, which I’ll mainly use for static aircraft. I’d like to use a Kase CPL to reduce glare from cockpits etc. Would the 77-95mm step up and either the 82mm or 95mm be a good option?? I tried a friend’s 24-120mm S with a CPL and the results were great.
Hi Richard, I really never reccomend buying high quality creative filters smaller than 82mm. Eventually you'll take a turn where you need bigger than 77. It just happens. I think the 82 will be sufficient unless you get into ultra-wide work (14-30 or 14-24). I have links right here: shop.hudsonhenry.com/collections/82mm-filters Email me with any questions you have. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hi Hudson, thanks for quick response. That’s great, I’ll go with the 82mm filter. It’ll mainly be for cutting down the glare and reflection from static aircraft cockpits, although I do really want to start taking some landscape/woodland photos as well. Thanks for the link and greatly appreciate the advice.
I just discovered I can install the 82mm inlaid ring into my Nikkor 14-24 2.8S. You just press it it into the built-in petal mini hood. It has some circumferential kind of threads (not really threads). The ring sits about 1 mm inside the mini hood. When it is there, there is no vignetting. I use a Kase cap. When you add ONE filter, there is a small vignetting that disappears at 16mm. If you add two filters (an ND and a CPL), there is vignetting up to 18 mm. Seems to me that it can be handled in post. So that you guys know. For some trips it would allow me to travel without 112mm filters.
The 112 system in the hb97 hood is simplicity itself. Add that the simple hood snap clicks onto the 24-70 2.8 S, 70-200 S, 14-30 S & 50 1.2 S, and I really see no reason to jam a piece of metal up next to that special front element of the 14-24 S in order to use filters that vignette. I would urge people fortunate enough to own the 14-24S to use the 112 system as intended. I personally advocate tossing the smaller inlaid rings from Kase. I certainly won't use them.
Yes, I agree,@@HudsonHenryPhoto . I just did a bit more testing and that vignetting is awful. I am about to remove that ring and invest in the 112mm filter set (soon).
Hey Hudson. What are your thoughts on the Kase clip in filters over the revolution filters?
REVOLUTION all the way. The clip ins are a huge pain in the ass. HUGE. Once you try the Revolutions you will never go back to another system. I tried the internal clip in's way back when the Z6 / Z7 launched thinking they might be cool. I used them a couple times. I think they're still in a box somwhere in the studio. :-)
The biggest lens I have is an 82mm. So, Im thinking of going to a 95mm.
One thing I wish they had was a step-up adapter built in with the magnetic adapter. Sucks that for my 70-100mm (77mm) and 24-70mm (82mm) lenses, I need an adapter to go to 95mm and then add the magnetic adapter on top. Would be better if it was an all in one system.
Also, if I get a 16mm, wondering if these 95mm's will be good when double stacked.
Would you recommend the Clear UV filter to be threaded on and never removed, then a step-up ring and the magnetic adapter.
Or perhaps a magnetic Uv filter that's removable?
I think that in practice you'd find that super annoying. I LOVE the fact that the revolution design has just enough edge to trap a pinch cap so that I don't have to use magnetic caps. Why? It's very hard to pull the cap without taking the filter off too. The same would be true of magnetic adapter rings. You'll find the rings spin on in 2 seconds every time. Keep them in an easy to access pocket in the bag and spin them on as you pull the lens out. It's like taking off the cap.
NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT. Consider a threaded UV like a protective 2nd lens cap to catch dust and grime. Pull it before shooting your best images, esepciallin backlight. If you're adding another fitler, it's useless and can only serve to degrade image quality.
Yep, you'll be fine with stacking with a 16mm. It's fine stacking the 95s in front of Nikon's 14-30. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I don't want to use magnetic lens caps. But it would be nice if the step up rings were also magnetic, allowing for both. So, if I'm correct, I'll have to get a step up ring with a magnetic inlet ring.
But, I'm still debating on the size.
My 24-70mm is an 82mm diameter. I would prefer not to go to a 95mm if I don't need to. But, worried it may vignette. I don't have a 16-35mm yet, so I can test vignetting - but I think it's a 72mm diameter
I go with Kase over other filters because the adapter rings actually freaking hold Nikon lens caps snuggly. No other filter set does this (even Maven), the lens caps easily fall off the adapter rings. In addition, the magnetic lens caps are flat for EVERY brand and can’t be pinched to remove off, this is really annoying when you have a magnetic lens cap on a lens with a longer hood. I don’t know why more people don’t complain about this but they don’t.
So, I find Kase superior because I can use the magnetic lens cap OR my original lens cap and it fits perfectly on the adapter ring. This is HUGE for using your camera day by day while keeping the adapters on all your lenses at all times.
I have no idea if this is something Kase filters do my a happy coincidence, or if they designed it this way, but they’re the only ones I know that allow you to attach a traditional lens cap over the filters and filter rings.
They sometimes listen to people like you and me when we give feedback, not always, but sometimes.. :-)
I bought your 112mm set and they work great. Even bought an extra HB97 hood. Not sure I would change just for the color coding but nice idea. By the way, what are three color rings for on your tripod? Ever thought of an Alaskan workshop? Thanks as always.
We will get to Alaska. I've spent a lot time from ANWR to Wrangel and the Alaska Range. I use that colored gaff tape to mark my tripods from all the other identical ones in my sprinter on workshops. Everyone loves them and once someone tries one out they bring one on their second or third workshop. :-)
Do you have thoughts on the 100mm Kase Armour system and Grad ND usage?
Yes. It's the best of the systems available for people who continue to insist on using graduated filters. I see no reason on earth to put an artificial contrast line through the middle of an image, darkening trees and mountains rising above the contrast line and leaving highlights overexposed below the contrast line. Why do that when we modern photograpghers can so easily bracket 3 frames, 3 stops apart and blend them into a single linear raw file with all that rich exposure lattitude to raw process framewide?
I used graduated filters all the time 20 years ago. A dozen years ago on Art Wolfe's advice, I started bracketing and blending shadow detail in using a soft brush on photoshop layers. Now I bracket 3stops apart and click merge to HDR in lightroom. BAM framewide boost of 6 stop exposure lattitude before I start processing the raw shadows and highlights. It even works handheld. When I see graduated filters in the field I shake my head these days...
Damn wish canon had a universal hood like that!
Thanks for introducing these fantastic accessories I have ordered a lens cap for my 800mm, can't wait for it to come. A chance of you lobbying Nikon to update their software so the Pro Capture works with Raw files instead of JPEG ?
Malcolm. I dream of them listening to me... :-)
One thing I ask when the discussion about using UV filters comes up is if I show you a picture can you tell if it was taken with or without a UV filter?
Not a good one like Kase's MC-UV or the Hoya HD3s I used to use.
Hi this was an interesting video I have the Wolverine filters I am only just learning how to use them. Would you be able to tell me if I needed to use the CPL, ND, & GRAD filter can they be used together if so what order please. 😀 I am new to these so just not sure 😀
I'd advocate never using the grad filter at all. Bracket and combine exposures instead without adding an unnatural contrast line through the center of your images. Search my channel for "high constrast" for more on that. Grads do far more harm than good.
You can add ND atop a cpl whenever you want the polarizing effect (to add contrast or control reelections), but be careful with ultrawide angles not to differently polarize the sky.
@@HudsonHenryPhotoThank you I only was going to use the GRAD filter since I am not so good at photoshop
Watch this: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html
It's a few clicks in lightroom to create a file with all the bracketed images' combined dynamic range. Simple
Will the Nikon Z 14-30mm f4 lens work with 82mm kit? With the inlaid system, can you put 2 filters (a CPL and ND) and not get vignetting at 14mm? Or do I need to get 95mm version? My other lenses are all 77mm. Confused on what to buy.
@@kalhana_photography you might get to 14 vignette free with 1 filter, not 2 and I really don't like the inlaid system. It's not that great. Go with 95 for sure! Then you'll have that ripping strong magnetic connection and be able to stack at will.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto thanks!
Does using filters make the lens coatings insignificant since the filter would need to be cloated to prevent glare?
No. You want the filters you use in high-contrast, backlight (only ND for me) to be coated sure, but my advice is to pull any protectivr uv or polarizing filter before shooting into high contrast backlight (say a sunstar or sunset with the disc rimming) to leave only your perfectly clean coated front element and avoid little ghosts from dust and lack of uv filter coatings. The best uv and cpl filters like the Kase wolverine/revolution line in my store and Hoya's HD3s are so well made and coated that they do not cause any ghosting themselves, but they will get dust and schmutz on them that cause it. Think of them as way to keep your actual front element clean and ready for high-contrast, backlit scenes.
I scratched the front of my sigma 135 1.8 and i cried, i now use uv filters threaded on every lens i have
I am looking to purchase the 112mm filters for the 12-24/2.8 (I also have the 70-200/2.8 and 24-120/4). I was leaning towards the Revolution series since that is the way the company is heading. I also want the neutral night filter and can purchase that separately. Alternatively I could buy the more expensive kit but that is not a Revolution series. Would really like your input. Thanks!
If you have time, I'm pushing them hard to get the night filter added to Revolution and get me kits with them included. I'm not sure how long it will take. Till then all the 112s are fully interchangeable, so you could buy the smaller kit and add it. I wish I had more options, but they don't yet exist.... Remember if you get 3 Kase items in my store you do get a discount applied automatically, so with an adapter ring you'd be there.
If the Revolution are smaller, would it be possible to stack filters on the 14-24 without vignetting at 14mm?
The 112s are identical. Only the smaller filters (ie 82s) are ever so slightly smaller. The 112s for the 14-24 are fully interchangeable with wolverines as I show in this video and I've stacked three on that lens with zero vignetting. :) www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
Excellent information - do you use the night filter much? I do quite a bit of night photography and actually never considered it before
Yes and it is fabulous. I had them make special wolverine kits for me with the night filter included I love it so much. I have them over at my store as well as the night filters separate. It adds contrast to the night sky and filters out significant amounts of light pollution. www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
@@HudsonHenryPhoto thanks and keep the podcasts coming. Hope to do a workshop with you someday
@@stevenkornfeld6804 which tripod is that?
@@Nickporter17 if you're asking me it's a gitzo 2542 with a RRS bh-30 head
@@stevenkornfeld6804 I'll check it out on your website
Did you happen to test for vignetting on the 14-30 or 24-70 when using the 82mm inlaid adapter?
Again. I would never use the 82mm inlaid adapter on one of my lenses. The inlaid 112 is great in the HB-97 hood. I found the new 82 inlaid suitable for round filing.
I no longer use either of those lenses, but I never had an issue with the 24-70 F4 vignetting with the wolverines and the standard threaded adapter before I traded it in on the 24-120. For the 2.8, the HB97 with 112s is magic just like it is on all the 2.8 zoom S lenses. Hope that helps.
@Hudson Henry Photography Sorry, I wasn't explicit. I'm actually a Sony shooter, so the 112 kit isn't really an option for me. I'm more just trying to get an idea if the inlaid ring will solve vignetting on wide zooms (e.g. the 24-70 GM II, 16-35 GM) because I tried the 82mm wolverine filters (non-revolution version) and found the vignetting unacceptable. I could go up to 95mm, but I'd much prefer to avoid that extra bulk and expense--especially if I'm putting adapter on my smaller primes. A small prime adapted to 82 mm isn't that much larger than a prime without the adapter, but a small prime with a 95mm adapter will no longer fit nicely in my Pelican case, and is prone to getting caught on the bottom of dividers in my bag.
I tried the 77 mm inlaid ring on my 17-40 Canon L, The Kase filters sit right without putting the inlaid ring on the lens. once I put the inlaid filter on the lens, I use the Kase CPL to make sure the ring sits right, the Kase filters do not sit flat. I tried this 3 times now with the same results. Has anyone run into this problem?
Again, the first thing I did with the inlaid ring was round file it. It's fabulous in 112mm for the Nikon HB-97 hood. Put it in and the hood is a magnetic holder. For lenses with the smaller sizes, I can't advise you to use them. Use the standard threaded external magnetic ring. It's fabulous. I don't agree with stacking UV and specialty filters. Take the UV off before mounting a CPL or ND. Using the inlaid only reduces the magnetism and risks damaging the lens. Added to the lack of need is the single filter thread somehow incorporated into the new Kase Revolution filters. They're still as thin, but now you can use a pinch cap on them. :-) Love it.
so if I got this correct... A wolverine (say a 82mm Neutral night filter) will fit on a Revolution 82mm magnetic ring but the other way around (a Revolution 82mm filter won't fit on a 82mm wolverine ring). ???
opposite. The new Revolution 82s are slightly smaller. They fit fine onto a Wolverine, but the Wolverine is too big to put on a Revolution.
Does the light leak on the HB-97 bother you at all? Would you change to the Nisi replacement to clear that up?
what is the HB-97?
@@gosman949 thats the threaded hood that comes with the 14-24/2.8 which takes the filters
I bought the nisi HB-97 replacement and it works with the Kase filters
@@zZola_Photography does Kase have a solution for the leak too?
There isn't any leak in that hood. Not that I've been able to discern in 100s and 100s of long exposure images in bright daylight even using 16stops of ND for noontime 120s exposures. I really think the complaint is bunk
I would appreciate some advice I will be spending a month in Nepal In November to early December I have a Z9 and the my 3 go to lens 14-24 24-70 70-200 all coming with me my filters are lee which i have updated over the years but weight on this trip is going to be a big issue and looking at changing to the Kase 112mm set but i do like my graduated filters can you assist with what would work best we will be hiking for 3 weeks over the 3 passes and EBC 160 Kms and over 5500 meters in height.
Sounds like a great trip. Wish I was coming. Here's my honest take. If I can do anything to convince you to abandon your graduated filters, please consider it. I did about 10 years ago and never looked back. Graduated filters in this day and age do far more harm than good. A simple bracketed set of 3 images 3 stops apart will allow you to capture all the tonal contrast of using a 6 stop neutral density filter through every single bit of your image. No more artificial contast line with half of a tree dark and half of the tree light. Forget stopping down incorrectly and carefully placing the filter. Simply turn on bracketing and shoot. Check out this video to see what I mean: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html
Is it possible to use the circular or rectangular graduated ND filters with the 112mm system?
If there is any way I can urge you to try bracketing instead... I specifically had sets of filters created by Kase excluding graduated filters since I believe they do far more harm to modern imagery than good. A well captured set of 3 images 3 stops apart. -3, on the meter, and plus 3 will give you all the tonal range you need. The camera can capture 14-15 stops these days. That technique gives you 20-21 stops of exposure latitude frame wide with a simple click in your editing suite of choice. Now you can recover shadows and highlight detail frame-wide without a darkened line across half your frame. :-) Here's a video I did a while back proving the point: ruclips.net/video/Lbuv-KRp5JM/видео.html I stopped using graduated filters except very rarely for timelapse or video over a dozen years ago and I lived by them in the film age. I had the full Galen Rowell Singh Ray set. I've been given Kase's Armour system to test and their K9. In both cases, I liked the K9 for square filter aficionados. Light and simple, but I had them create me a kit without any graduated filters in it. ;-) www.hudsonhenry.com/kase
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the reply. You don't have to sell me hard on not using graduated filters. I'm really trying to just keep it simple and I'm thinking about just starting with a CPL and ND filters. I was just wanting to see if in the future, I found a need for a GND filter, I would have the ability to use one with the base setup I go with. I'm trying to decide between the 82 and 112 Revolution sets. I don't have a need for the 112 filters yet, but think I may buy the 14-24 F2.8 in the future. However, if I went with the 14-30 F4, I could just stay with 82mm filters.
That's sort of true. I found the 14-30 vignetted with any 82mm filter up to about 18 or 20mm. It does accept the hb97 112mm filter hood along with all three 2.8 S zoom lenses and the 50 1.2. I can also get custom ordered 95mm filters with one extra day lead time in my store. Www.hudsonhenry.com/kase the Kase distributor conveniently lives across town. :)
If you were to use grads later, Kase makes them, but a 100mm square system is really much much better for that (like the k9 system in my store). I've never found round grads good for much, even back in the days when I used grads.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Can you get the Kase KW Revolution Mega Set (82mm)?
Much prefer Maven over Kase filters!
Michael the Maven is good ppl! I love his kit
What makes you prefer the Maven? Did you compare them side by side?
@@mluu83 i have both kits granted my kase are 82mm and my mavin are 112mm, but the mags are much stronger and i actually really like the textured identifiers on maven. And lastly maven is a small brand by a single dedicated down to earth photographer and I really like that aspect
I love my Maven filters, but have no experience with the Kase filters!
I really like the colour coding on the Maven filters and also the knurling that helps quickly see the type or strength of filter.
@@TimvanderLeeuw which is cheaper? Prices have got to come down!
Does anyone know the difference between the Skyeye and the Revolution filters?
There's a reason I don't carry skyeye in my store. Www.hudsonhenry.com/kase They have a full filter thread in front to catch a traditional filter. You can't stack other magnetics with them, and they become thick and bulky with potential vignetting. All the great advantages of the revolution line are negated.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto ah! Thanks for the explanation!
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have a set and can stack magnetics with them but yes, there is a thread now I see.
Hi can you put me a kit together 112mm with 3 stop 6 stop 10 stop and polarized filter with all the step down ring I need them to work on all the newest and the best z lens I would appreciate you putting me a kit to do it all thanks
That's all easily available at www.hudsonhenry.com/kase. You can email me if you need more help, but I'm in and out of data range in Yellowstone running a workshop so be patient. hi@hudsonhenry.com
@@HudsonHenryPhoto thanks this was helpful I am looking forward to my order