How I make 3D prints into metal cold cast keyrings
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2023
- In this video, I go over how I convert 3d prints into cold-cast keyrings. The video includes making the model more compatible with the casting process as well as adding a spout and ring loop. Then printing it, pouring the mould, and finally casting with polyurethane and metallic powder to create a cold cast keyring.
3D Model: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vario...
Designed by cults3d.com/en/users/Sirbats/...
Software used: 3D Builder - Free with Windows 10
ITEMS USED
Vacuum chamber used amzn.to/3Vr1XXw
Wash and Cure amzn.to/44oHTcr (this has been updated I use an older model but sizes should match).
Silicone www.benam.co.uk/products/sili...
Alternative Silicone from Amazon amzn.to/4115Aoq (Not used this but.... will have a go and see how it behaves).
Scalpel amzn.to/3Lvrg6n
Metal powder from Amazon amzn.to/3HE3gNo
Metal powder from this video www.mbfg.co.uk/copperpowder.html
Paper cups amzn.to/3AT2NCZ
Keyring loop and chain amzn.to/42iHsyu
Gloves amzn.to/418ynr0
Go check out my other bits!
Patreon - / thehermitworkshop
Esty - www.etsy.com/uk/shop/HermitPr...
Instagram - / thehermitworkshop
Facebook - / thehermitworkshop
For helpful meshmixer tutorials check these vids out!
• Digital Kitbashing - C...
• How to make custom 3d ...
Return of the King!!!
I was looking for a decent tutorial like this. Sufficient way to produce firearms parts from small to large.
Great video😉
Great video, glad to see you back on RUclips!
But please, PLEASE, don't wash the piece under tap water before having cured it. There's still some uncured resin on it for sure, and you don't want that toxic stuff going down the drain. Use some hot water that's in a bowl and then dispose of it after having left it under the sun and then straining it!
You're absolutely right! Since making this video I have changed my practice and do exactly that. A bowl of warm water then dispose of the water after leaving it in the sun (or chucking in the UV cure chamber) and then running through a strainer (essentially a large coffee filter). I have removed the clip of me rinsing it in the video (may take 24 hours to change) to avoid promoting that kind of activity. I was thoughtless and assumed the wash and cure and IPA would remove all of the uncured resin. Clearly, it wouldn't be 100% and any toxic chems going down the drain is terrible. Thank you for flagging! I need to do a "best practice" update video as I have generally upped my PPE game and safety around these genuinely dangerous chemicals.
@thehermitworkshop2913 thank you for taking the time to modify the video in order to remove that specific clip! 🫶🏻 stay safe while working with resins, I'm a medic and I've seen people getting terrible dermatitises while working with them (gloves notwithstanding)!
@@ordnaelshideout No worries! Thank you for bringing it to my attention. I've started using a mask and have put the printers in a separate room from the one I usually work in. So far I've not had any reactions but I'd like to keep it that way. It's certainly something that's become much more common as time has gone on with people being quite lax around these chemicals.
Just discovered your channel and i’m very impressed with both your video content and the quality of your products! Also I’m glad to see you making videos again :) In the comments section of one video you said you might stress test your axe type weapons, I would love to see that!
Definitely Definitely should do! I'm revamping a bunch of my very early weapons. So may as well push them to the limit with some stress tests prior to remaking
And thank you!!!!
Nice video. What resin did you use for printing and what silicone for the mold? I ask since I tried this process several years ago but the silicone did not adhere to the printed part properly, the 3D printed part interacted with the silicone material and did not let the silicone cure. I wonder if the newer 3d resins today are making this work now since I did not see you coat the 3D printed part before pouring the silicone mold and it seems like you had a successful mold without any interaction between the two.
How unusual! Yes I've used various silicone for thebmoulds but my preference is smooth on mould max, and the resin is ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Resin LCD UV 405nm Rapid Photopolymer in black. I've not had any issues at all. As you say perhaps the resin has gotten better and less reactive?
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot when I get a chance and see if I have better luck with this process now. Looks like this combo works well for you.