I would never do this myself as most of my efforts to work on my bikes generate as many new problems as they fix. Still I find these videos fascinating.
It is easier if shown in person and then get to do one moments later under guidance . Then have all questions answered . I have taught this in a classroom to six students myself . I went beyond the scope of this video though .
A tip for using the tool: after you have aligned the tool (i.e., achieved parallelism), check that you can position the cutter on BOTH of the brake attachment points before starting to face the first attachment point. Depending on the fork and frame, one of the attachment points can be unreachable or you cannot attach the turning handle. In such case you have to slightly change the position of the parts when realigning the tool, flip the axle adaptor to get more room on one side etc. If you discover the issue after facing the first attachment point, realigning the tool to reach the second attachment point becomes much more difficult since you don't have the even attachment points anymore to achieve parallelism.
The machining of the calipers is much better than the frame or even the adaptors. For most manufacturers, the caliper body is held to a tight tolerance. The body is generally not the weak link, and machining the adaptor or frame will significantly help alignment.
It definitely seems like this facing tool would be helpful in getting closer to perfect alignment. Have you guys found a flat mating surface will mostly overcome mounting holes that may not be drilled at the perfect angle (not perfectly 90 degrees to the newly faced surface)? Ideally you would think that the frame manufacturers would be doing this stuff for us lol.
Correct. The two flat surfaces of the post mount and caliper body are still in tight contact from the bolt preload, even if the bolt holes are not drilled at a perfect 90-degree angle to the faces.
this isn't a tool a consumer would usually buy. having your brakes faced is something a shop would generally do. I wonder if my bike's mounts are out, it would explain how hard it's been to true the brakes.
I don’t use it for my bike because it’s not special job. But I use for the customer because all mechanics don’t want complain. If you have the tools use it.
Welded frames can move unless they are hand finished using this method they are only close to perfect. You have to index of the axle and this tool has that nailed. It's a shop tool for professionals..
@@parktool correct, and the tool u are making is very nice but those mounts should be correct from the manufacterer, so the tool is designed for (small?) manufacturers?
"Should be correct" is the key. Bikes are rarely coming perfectly aligned from the factory. This tool is for everyone. We are seeing many more bikes that need this tool these days. Small manufacturers will use this when building but this is primarily used by shops around the country on mass produced frames all the way up to custom built frames.
so the stand offs that are used to set parallelism on the flatmount are set onto the possibly crooked flatmount? wouldn't that make the final faced surface parallel to the un-faced surface that might have been crooked?
The stand offs and the cutting body both take a setting that averages both mounts for heights. Assume one mount is sloped to the left, the other mount is sloped to the right. The cutting body wings are taking the height of each. It is effectively a two dimension setting to begin cutting, the tool cannot take a three dimension setting. The mounts are then cut square to the axle, not to one another. - Calvin
Park Tool It makes more sense now that i think about it. I had not thought about it being only 2 dimensional. And the cutter runs thru with the axle. Thank, Calvin! I'm a big fan of your videos.
Thanks for the video. I'm surprised that as a reference for the paralesim you take the initial position. Imagine that one of the mount is 100% OK but the other is 10° off, at the end you might be a few degrees off. Where can i font official dimensions of a flat mount rear ?
You must have to use some shims between the caliper and the shaved post mount if you have shaved off as much as you did in this video? Other wise, the caliper will set too low and the rotor will drag on the caliper body. Just curious if you did another video after this one about that?
Shims are not required after removal of the fairly minimal removal of material from these mounts. If you need to remove that much material from your brakes to get them to be faced properly then there was a major issue before hand and the manufacturer should be contacted. You only remove enough material to make the mount flat. That means just taking any angle off the mount and facing it down to the lowest part of the original face.
@@parktool I have some rotors that have taller humps on top and I have had to add a tiny bit of shim material. On my XT calipers and rotor combos, every rotor is a tiny bit different. That's on 3 different bikes with different rotors :) My Ashima rotors and old Avid rotors are different and are set up differently
This complex tool is phenomenal. But... wouldn't this all be solved with washers that have somewhat of a "ramp" to them to compensate for variance? My Avid brakes have slanted washers and are super easy to true on any frame I've put them on.
I like the ability of the Avid BB5 brakes to pivot around to different angles. Many brakes do not come with those though and they expect the faces to be on a near perfect plane in relation to the wheel. You cannot simply add the concave and convex washers because you are adding height to the caliper, which would cause the pads to clamp too high on the rotor.
There are very few IS mounts anymore. Most all use a Post Mount (PM) adapter to accept the PM caliper. Face only the PM adapter in this case. There are far more bikes using PM compared to FM. It depends upon how they were make in both cases.
The whole part in the video where you mention that the tool's axle needs to be expanded in the dropouts before tightening the frame's thru-axle would've been useful in the actual manual... Unless I glossed over it. I tightened the frame's thru-axle to spec, then expanded the tool's axle (and subsequently tightened the clamp in place) and noticed a bunch of wobble while facing. Couldn't get the mounts square on my new carbon fork :( here's hoping I can fix it without removing too much material!
Is there a way to decide which mount to start with? The goal should be to remove as little material as possible. For example wouldn’t starting with the wrong mount end with more material removed? Thanks.
Yes, but it's not going to make a meaningful difference overall in most cases. The best way to tell which one to start with is to use a straight edge to then sight from the side. The one that needs the most material removed to make it right is the one you should start with.
Maybe some sort of click on plastic cap would be nice to stop it sliding apart inadvertently and falling to the floor? I've done that several times by accident but otherwise I can't believe how much I'm using this tool. It makes setting up brakes without the conical washers so much easier. Oh and please do a simple instruction pdf (ie not 8 pages) so i don't have to keep going back to the video?
If you'd like you can purchase another height collar to put at the top to prevent it from slipping off. Haha yes lots of instructions. There are 3 different styles of brakes this works on and in those styles there are options and settings. So shorter than 8 pages is probably not gonna happen. We did make the video to make it easier for people to understand and find the info they need. Thanks for using it the DT-5.2!
It comes down to how well the manufacturer prepped this surface. Some manufacturers have residua paint left on the mounting surface and some do not get the surfaces perfectly flat. These can lead to brake misalignment, which can cause rubbing and noise.
Did the non drive side drop on QR before tightening or am I just seeing things? Would skew entire process. Heavy powder coat or paint in the drops has to have an effect on the accuracy of this device. Picky, picky, picky, I know, but then that's why you would purchase this for the shop anywho. Minute 6:47ish
Please correct me if I'm wrong. At 1:50 while setting the width of the facing tool, wouldn't you want the width of the tool axle to be set to the correct dropout width? If not, the face of the brake mount face will not align correctly. Is that correct?
The width within the frame should be very close to the width of the axle. Typically frames are within a mm or two of the axle width. Setting to the axle width or setting the width within the frame will both lead you to a good face.
I wish Park Tool would include spacers with this tool for the most common dropout widths to eliminate errors. I've watched mechanics screw this up and tighten the thru axle well beyond the correct axle length, thus shorting the axle length by more that a centimeter. Not a confidence building exercise when left up to an arrogant yet incompetent mechanic.
It would and on most brake setups there is often less than a few MM between the edge of the rotor and the caliper which means if you strip 1mm of the post mounts or even a fraction of that then you can run into a situation of having the rotor strike the caliper, some time back i used another method to true the mounts on the fork of my ebike and they where so out i had to remove just under 1mm and after they where perfectly true but when i tried to fit the caliper back on the rotor was so close i did not feel comfortable running it as all it would take is a little heat expansion to cause the rotor to strike the caliper and possibly lock the front so i went out and bought a new shimano adapter. To be honest though while this tool is great for those that are anal about making things true or new pad rub it is utterly unnecessary because all bike brake systems are made with an allowance for thinks not being perfect and the pads will self true to the rotor when they bed in.
@@EQINOX187 it will not make the caliper sit lower, since you are not making the surface lower, you are making the surface even. the lowest point of the surface will not change, so the lowest point of the caliper will not get any lower after facing. if your caliper is that close to your rotor, you are using the wrong mount, wrong caliper, or wrong disc.
For carbon fiber brake mounts, use the add-on Diamond Abrasive cutter #2197. www.parktool.com/product/dt-5-dt-5-2-diamond-abrasive-adaptor-for-carbon-fiber-2197
@parktool can this be used on a rear carbon post mount where there is no aluminium insert? You would then be facing directly on the carbon its self. Is this acceptable?
It can. The blade will dull faster when cutting carbon. Keep good down pressure and it will take quite some time. Use water to catch the particles and help carry them away. The less you allow the cut carbon dust build up the better. It turns into basically a diamond grit that is very abrasive. Hope this helps
Hello. Love your tools and videos. I'm facing a flat mount with your DT-5.2 and it's a bit kludgy. So, I googled and found this video. However, I'm a bit more confused. At around 0:09:15, you establish parallelism by tightening two bolts. Then, around 0:09:30, you loosen one of the bolts (without explanation) in order to manoeuvre the facer onto a mounting hole. Doesn't this immediately (albeit, potentially) negate the whole exercise in parallelism? Looking forward to being schooled as to what I'm doing wrong. :)
The parallelism is based off the main shaft. Since that and bolt that holds the two pieces together were tightened when holding on the faces of the mount the shaft is set in space. Then you can loosen the bolt that holds the two main pieces together, change where things are, then tighten and it will bring you back to parallel.
Like any bike, some bikes are prepared well in regards to facing, and some are not. The tool will cut on carbon, but carbon fiber does dull the cutter quickly.
@@parktool ok, I just was thinking, that Carbon frames are made so accurate that you can press bearing directly to bottom bracket if it is what manufacturer are designed so I just think that are brake mount made same accurete. If tool go dull can it resharped or buy just new blade?
stuff rarely comes perfectly squared from factory (it should but doesn't). and that will impact braking performance and make it louder. so this makes it perfectly square.
A carbon frame will have metal inserts. If the faces are already properly square to the rotor, then facing is not needed. However, even on a carbon frame with poorly aligned mount, facing can help.
Most current disc brake systems do not have beveled washers. You would know you needed to do this or have this done if you were looking at the gaps on each side of your rotor and they were at an angle. You would typically be getting frustrated because you cannot get the brakes not to rub. With the popularity of flat mount increasing we are seeing this needed more and more.
We get emails from France on a regular basis. I am not sure what trouble you are having with that but I promise that we get emails from around the world on a daily basis.
Doesn´t work with steel frames with flat-mount which have a lower height. Tool just collides with itself and you can barely scratch the powder coating.
Could you send us images of the frame in question? Thanks. tech@parktool.com . There are very few frames that this tool does not fit and of them steel flat mounts have not been an issue. We have multiple steel flat mount bikes here that it works great on but there are always different designs out there and it would help if you could share an image of what you are dealing with. Technically if a frame manufacturer follows Shimano or SRAMs frame building guidelines there should be no issue. Thanks
@@parktool ibb.co/wRfV4g4 worked a bit better on the second frame but still the facing part collided with the base plate. It´s like working on the limit. A cutout or thinner base plate would solve this.
Im not seeing anything wrong in the images shared. Looks like it is facing and is not running into the base. Do you have a better image showing the exact issue? Setup on these is involved but very important.
I still couldn't work out what this tool was doing. I know it's in the title of the video but I couldn't figure it out. Just seemed like a lot of faffing.
Compatibility is not the issue so much as alignment. This tool ensures the mounts are perfectly aligned with the frame, as disc brakes can require tight tolerances, and frames and adapters are sometimes built to a... looser standard.
The DT-5.2 is engineered and built to accurately face front or rear disc brake mounts so they are precisely aligned to the rotor. ruclips.net/video/7EY15jtA6yA/видео.html
if only park tool could lower the prices on this, bike shops will see the value of purchasing one. At current price, it takes at least 3 years before they can recover the cost of this tool from customers coming just for brake mount facing services
I would never do this myself as most of my efforts to work on my bikes generate as many new problems as they fix. Still I find these videos fascinating.
It’s not hard mate, you’re just cutting paint off the top of your mount.
I have the same things happen to me too! 😂
It is easier if shown in person and then get to do one moments later under guidance . Then have all questions answered . I have taught this in a classroom to six students myself . I went beyond the scope of this video though .
I have taught the process for "POST MOUNTS AS THEY ARE NOW THE MOST COMMON" .
Post and international standard facing tools are easier if you buy a set of two separate tools , one for each style separately .
Maybe not an Oscar but a Golden Wrench for sure.
A tip for using the tool: after you have aligned the tool (i.e., achieved parallelism), check that you can position the cutter on BOTH of the brake attachment points before starting to face the first attachment point. Depending on the fork and frame, one of the attachment points can be unreachable or you cannot attach the turning handle. In such case you have to slightly change the position of the parts when realigning the tool, flip the axle adaptor to get more room on one side etc.
If you discover the issue after facing the first attachment point, realigning the tool to reach the second attachment point becomes much more difficult since you don't have the even attachment points anymore to achieve parallelism.
I just picked one up on fb marketplace for $100. Thanks for the tip.
This thing exists 4 years already and I see this just now?
RUclips's recommended algorhythms - you suck!
The tool is actually brilliant!
Now this is amazing, more so when you had the adapters for different mounts! Cheers! PT thinks of everything!
Can you guys do a video on how to use your fork and frame straightener?
Looks like an awesome tool, very clever. I am reluctant to buy one though since there is no caliper facing tool. Those can be just as off.
The machining of the calipers is much better than the frame or even the adaptors. For most manufacturers, the caliper body is held to a tight tolerance. The body is generally not the weak link, and machining the adaptor or frame will significantly help alignment.
It definitely seems like this facing tool would be helpful in getting closer to perfect alignment. Have you guys found a flat mating surface will mostly overcome mounting holes that may not be drilled at the perfect angle (not perfectly 90 degrees to the newly faced surface)?
Ideally you would think that the frame manufacturers would be doing this stuff for us lol.
Correct. The two flat surfaces of the post mount and caliper body are still in tight contact from the bolt preload, even if the bolt holes are not drilled at a perfect 90-degree angle to the faces.
It's absurd to even need this tool with the price of 'high-end' bikes and components. These parts should come squared and machined out of the box.
In a perfect world YES, but here we are
this isn't a tool a consumer would usually buy. having your brakes faced is something a shop would generally do. I wonder if my bike's mounts are out, it would explain how hard it's been to true the brakes.
I don’t use it for my bike because it’s not special job. But I use for the customer because all mechanics don’t want complain. If you have the tools use it.
Yeah, they should
Welded frames can move unless they are hand finished using this method they are only close to perfect. You have to index of the axle and this tool has that nailed. It's a shop tool for professionals..
I use BB7’s, they have a system to avoid this kind of tinkering later on, loosen the mounting bolts, squeeze brake lever, tighten bolts, done.
Those are what are referred to as CPS washers and cannot be added to a brake not designed for them. Great brakes!
@@parktool correct, and the tool u are making is very nice but those mounts should be correct from the manufacterer, so the tool is designed for (small?) manufacturers?
"Should be correct" is the key. Bikes are rarely coming perfectly aligned from the factory. This tool is for everyone. We are seeing many more bikes that need this tool these days. Small manufacturers will use this when building but this is primarily used by shops around the country on mass produced frames all the way up to custom built frames.
@@joramvandervorst7715 Any time a frame is repainted, it should be done. (or checked by a competent person)
the demonstration is great !!
so the stand offs that are used to set parallelism on the flatmount are set onto the possibly crooked flatmount? wouldn't that make the final faced surface parallel to the un-faced surface that might have been crooked?
The stand offs and the cutting body both take a setting that averages both mounts for heights. Assume one mount is sloped to the left, the other mount is sloped to the right. The cutting body wings are taking the height of each. It is effectively a two dimension setting to begin cutting, the tool cannot take a three dimension setting. The mounts are then cut square to the axle, not to one another. - Calvin
Park Tool It makes more sense now that i think about it. I had not thought about it being only 2 dimensional. And the cutter runs thru with the axle. Thank, Calvin! I'm a big fan of your videos.
Hi Max, congratulations for the explanation.
Could I know if the DT-5 or DT-5.2 is compliant with thru axle Syntace X-12?
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the video. I'm surprised that as a reference for the paralesim you take the initial position. Imagine that one of the mount is 100% OK but the other is 10° off, at the end you might be a few degrees off. Where can i font official dimensions of a flat mount rear ?
You must have to use some shims between the caliper and the shaved post mount if you have shaved off as much as you did in this video? Other wise, the caliper will set too low and the rotor will drag on the caliper body. Just curious if you did another video after this one about that?
Shims are not required after removal of the fairly minimal removal of material from these mounts. If you need to remove that much material from your brakes to get them to be faced properly then there was a major issue before hand and the manufacturer should be contacted. You only remove enough material to make the mount flat. That means just taking any angle off the mount and facing it down to the lowest part of the original face.
@@parktool I have some rotors that have taller humps on top and I have had to add a tiny bit of shim material. On my XT calipers and rotor combos, every rotor is a tiny bit different. That's on 3 different bikes with different rotors :) My Ashima rotors and old Avid rotors are different and are set up differently
This complex tool is phenomenal. But... wouldn't this all be solved with washers that have somewhat of a "ramp" to them to compensate for variance? My Avid brakes have slanted washers and are super easy to true on any frame I've put them on.
I like the ability of the Avid BB5 brakes to pivot around to different angles. Many brakes do not come with those though and they expect the faces to be on a near perfect plane in relation to the wheel. You cannot simply add the concave and convex washers because you are adding height to the caliper, which would cause the pads to clamp too high on the rotor.
Is this more problem more common on flat mounts compared to IS? Also, I dont need to comment about the slopiness of frame manufacturing
There are very few IS mounts anymore. Most all use a Post Mount (PM) adapter to accept the PM caliper. Face only the PM adapter in this case. There are far more bikes using PM compared to FM. It depends upon how they were make in both cases.
Might have been nice to explain why & when facing is done.
Merci beaucoup excellente démonstration!!!
The whole part in the video where you mention that the tool's axle needs to be expanded in the dropouts before tightening the frame's thru-axle would've been useful in the actual manual... Unless I glossed over it. I tightened the frame's thru-axle to spec, then expanded the tool's axle (and subsequently tightened the clamp in place) and noticed a bunch of wobble while facing. Couldn't get the mounts square on my new carbon fork :( here's hoping I can fix it without removing too much material!
You got a manual?
who invented this? bloody brilliant
Is there a way to decide which mount to start with? The goal should be to remove as little material as possible. For example wouldn’t starting with the wrong mount end with more material removed? Thanks.
Yes, but it's not going to make a meaningful difference overall in most cases. The best way to tell which one to start with is to use a straight edge to then sight from the side. The one that needs the most material removed to make it right is the one you should start with.
@@parktoolcould u explain the use of a straight edge a bit more for this procedure? Thx!🙏
can this be used on carbon fiber frames?
Maybe some sort of click on plastic cap would be nice to stop it sliding apart inadvertently and falling to the floor? I've done that several times by accident but otherwise I can't believe how much I'm using this tool. It makes setting up brakes without the conical washers so much easier. Oh and please do a simple instruction pdf (ie not 8 pages) so i don't have to keep going back to the video?
If you'd like you can purchase another height collar to put at the top to prevent it from slipping off. Haha yes lots of instructions. There are 3 different styles of brakes this works on and in those styles there are options and settings. So shorter than 8 pages is probably not gonna happen. We did make the video to make it easier for people to understand and find the info they need. Thanks for using it the DT-5.2!
how important facing is needed? don't remember seeing this in shimano disc brake installation manual.
It comes down to how well the manufacturer prepped this surface. Some manufacturers have residua paint left on the mounting surface and some do not get the surfaces perfectly flat. These can lead to brake misalignment, which can cause rubbing and noise.
Merci beaucoup super bien expliqué 👌
That is a nice tool set.
Impressive tool.
Cyclus ones are $2 ,300 dollars in Australia . I had one stolen by a client . I still use TREFOLEX on mine . What happened to Calvin ?
when facing the IS mount, do you face the frame itself or the aluminum IS adapter itself?
thank you.
Adapter….
Did the non drive side drop on QR before tightening or am I just seeing things? Would skew entire process. Heavy powder coat or paint in the drops has to have an effect on the accuracy of this device. Picky, picky, picky, I know, but then that's why you would purchase this for the shop anywho. Minute 6:47ish
I saw what you mean. It self corrected when it was tightened. Look again.
Hi
Cannondale lefty 3.0 fork can use ?
Please correct me if I'm wrong. At 1:50 while setting the width of the facing tool, wouldn't you want the width of the tool axle to be set to the correct dropout width? If not, the face of the brake mount face will not align correctly. Is that correct?
The width within the frame should be very close to the width of the axle. Typically frames are within a mm or two of the axle width. Setting to the axle width or setting the width within the frame will both lead you to a good face.
I wish Park Tool would include spacers with this tool for the most common dropout widths to eliminate errors. I've watched mechanics screw this up and tighten the thru axle well beyond the correct axle length, thus shorting the axle length by more that a centimeter. Not a confidence building exercise when left up to an arrogant yet incompetent mechanic.
Won’t it make the calliper sit lower down which could mean the calliper contacts the rotor on the inside?
It would and on most brake setups there is often less than a few MM between the edge of the rotor and the caliper which means if you strip 1mm of the post mounts or even a fraction of that then you can run into a situation of having the rotor strike the caliper, some time back i used another method to true the mounts on the fork of my ebike and they where so out i had to remove just under 1mm and after they where perfectly true but when i tried to fit the caliper back on the rotor was so close i did not feel comfortable running it as all it would take is a little heat expansion to cause the rotor to strike the caliper and possibly lock the front so i went out and bought a new shimano adapter. To be honest though while this tool is great for those that are anal about making things true or new pad rub it is utterly unnecessary because all bike brake systems are made with an allowance for thinks not being perfect and the pads will self true to the rotor when they bed in.
@@EQINOX187 it will not make the caliper sit lower, since you are not making the surface lower, you are making the surface even. the lowest point of the surface will not change, so the lowest point of the caliper will not get any lower after facing. if your caliper is that close to your rotor, you are using the wrong mount, wrong caliper, or wrong disc.
Does it work for carbon frames? And anything other than brake mounts?
For carbon fiber brake mounts, use the add-on Diamond Abrasive cutter #2197. www.parktool.com/product/dt-5-dt-5-2-diamond-abrasive-adaptor-for-carbon-fiber-2197
@parktool can this be used on a rear carbon post mount where there is no aluminium insert? You would then be facing directly on the carbon its self. Is this acceptable?
It can. The blade will dull faster when cutting carbon. Keep good down pressure and it will take quite some time. Use water to catch the particles and help carry them away. The less you allow the cut carbon dust build up the better. It turns into basically a diamond grit that is very abrasive. Hope this helps
There is an optional diamond cutter available now to use with this kit.
Hello, what about the threads inside the holes? Can be damaged then preventing bolts to screw?
For the internal threads you can use a standard m6x1 tap.
Hello. Love your tools and videos. I'm facing a flat mount with your DT-5.2 and it's a bit kludgy. So, I googled and found this video. However, I'm a bit more confused. At around 0:09:15, you establish parallelism by tightening two bolts. Then, around 0:09:30, you loosen one of the bolts (without explanation) in order to manoeuvre the facer onto a mounting hole. Doesn't this immediately (albeit, potentially) negate the whole exercise in parallelism? Looking forward to being schooled as to what I'm doing wrong. :)
The parallelism is based off the main shaft. Since that and bolt that holds the two pieces together were tightened when holding on the faces of the mount the shaft is set in space. Then you can loosen the bolt that holds the two main pieces together, change where things are, then tighten and it will bring you back to parallel.
How well does this work on chainstay post mounts?
Hi Robert, the DT-5.2 is compatible with all IS Mount, Flat Mount, and Post Mount caliper mounts, including chainstay mounts.
Does carbon frames and forks mount need to facing? If yes, does this tool work with them?
Like any bike, some bikes are prepared well in regards to facing, and some are not. The tool will cut on carbon, but carbon fiber does dull the cutter quickly.
@@parktool ok, I just was thinking, that Carbon frames are made so accurate that you can press bearing directly to bottom bracket if it is what manufacturer are designed so I just think that are brake mount made same accurete. If tool go dull can it resharped or buy just new blade?
There’s an optional diamond cutter available now.
@@Mersuharrastaja They are not as accurate as you might think. Take a look at Hambini's videos.
Is this something that only applies to mtb frames? I only really know anything about road bikes
The tool works on road frames too.
what is this tool for? i can t understand why
stuff rarely comes perfectly squared from factory (it should but doesn't). and that will impact braking performance and make it louder. so this makes it perfectly square.
is facing necessary for à carbon frame?
A carbon frame will have metal inserts. If the faces are already properly square to the rotor, then facing is not needed. However, even on a carbon frame with poorly aligned mount, facing can help.
Could you face carbon mounts?
Yes it is possible. There is an optional diamond tip cutter available that is used for facing carbon. It’s not in the 5.2 kit last I heard.
How would you know if you even needed this done? Don't the caliper mount bolts have a beveled washer to allow for adjustment?
Most current disc brake systems do not have beveled washers. You would know you needed to do this or have this done if you were looking at the gaps on each side of your rotor and they were at an angle. You would typically be getting frustrated because you cannot get the brakes not to rub. With the popularity of flat mount increasing we are seeing this needed more and more.
what about a fox fork?
J'ai acheté cet outil mais pour l'arrière sur Colnago V3rs ça ne fonctionne pas 🤔
What is preventing it from working? Please reach out to tech@parktool.com with some images of your fitment issue.
@@parktool Merci mais je n'arrive pas à leur transmettre le message depuis la France...
We get emails from France on a regular basis. I am not sure what trouble you are having with that but I promise that we get emails from around the world on a daily basis.
@@parktool Merci je vais ré essayer ;)
Doesn´t work with steel frames with flat-mount which have a lower height. Tool just collides with itself and you can barely scratch the powder coating.
Could you send us images of the frame in question? Thanks. tech@parktool.com . There are very few frames that this tool does not fit and of them steel flat mounts have not been an issue. We have multiple steel flat mount bikes here that it works great on but there are always different designs out there and it would help if you could share an image of what you are dealing with. Technically if a frame manufacturer follows Shimano or SRAMs frame building guidelines there should be no issue. Thanks
@@parktool ibb.co/wRfV4g4 worked a bit better on the second frame but still the facing part collided with the base plate. It´s like working on the limit. A cutout or thinner base plate would solve this.
@@parktool ibb.co/DWTd37q
Im not seeing anything wrong in the images shared. Looks like it is facing and is not running into the base. Do you have a better image showing the exact issue? Setup on these is involved but very important.
I still couldn't work out what this tool was doing. I know it's in the title of the video but I couldn't figure it out. Just seemed like a lot of faffing.
What's the purpose of this
How can I save this to my computer?
Don't bother. Just hit the three dots and save it to your yt account. Much easier.
Why would you want to do this? Don’t they sell mounts for every rotor size you need?
Compatibility is not the issue so much as alignment. This tool ensures the mounts are perfectly aligned with the frame, as disc brakes can require tight tolerances, and frames and adapters are sometimes built to a... looser standard.
This is to face the mount and allow proper alignment. Many mounts are not consistent and prevent proper alignment.
Отличная и безполезная вещь, поскольку выравнивать надо тогда все поверхности - и на самих тормозных колодках тоже.
Only $742 australian on ebay lol
Why this tool cost a kidney ?
This tool is precision and is made of premium materials.
its because its a niche tool and its very expensive to make the cutting bits because there so prescicly machined.
What’s the point of this 500$ tool?
The DT-5.2 is engineered and built to accurately face front or rear disc brake mounts so they are precisely aligned to the rotor. ruclips.net/video/7EY15jtA6yA/видео.html
Park Tool
Why they didn’t aligned that in factory?
Sometimes during the manufacturing process things go out of alignment or when the bike is painted the alignment goes out.
Park Tool
Jesus,that’s unacceptable for the price that we pay for bikes and frames
It's one of those things you don't even know you need, until you do need it. I have alignment issue on a $9000 bike. It's sad but what you gonna do...
too complicated
You realize files exist, right?
Joseph Loasby It is difficult to get this level of precision with a file.
lmfao the idea is not to hack the material away, this is a precision tool for a precision job.
if only park tool could lower the prices on this, bike shops will see the value of purchasing one. At current price, it takes at least 3 years before they can recover the cost of this tool from customers coming just for brake mount facing services