Clean BATTERY CORROSION on ELECTRONICS! EASY DIY! | 2-minute Tutorials Ep.4
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- We will fix your corroded battery contacts on any of your battery powered electrics easily. We clean the corrosion and get your electronics fixed!
We will show you how to easily clean corrosion from a leaking battery. In this video I'll show you a very easy way to clean battery leak damage to get your electronic device all cleaned up and going again. Hope you enjoy this!
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🔗 DeoxIT (Best Electronics CLEANER on Amazon): geni.us/5BxxN (Amazon)
🔗 Organic White Distilled VINEGAR: geni.us/BYuuml (Amazon)
🔗 Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics CLEANER: geni.us/SMFm (Amazon)
🔗 Dielectric Grease: geni.us/2UwEF
/ handymanhertz
As a certified Bio-Medical Electronics Technician I have seen medical equipment (hand held ultrasound, portable pace makers etc.) that were corroded. Our shop supervisor would not allow us to scratch the gold plated contacts as it can remove the thin layer of gold and expose the base metal to the air and further corrosion. He recommended a pure gum (Pink Pearl) because they had no fiberglass in the eraser. Vinegar is a weak acid. You use this to clean the leaked powder(base) as it neutralizes and turns it to a salt. Then as you clean it with the alcohol be sure to let the fluids run off the area into a towel so as to keep from draining into the rest of the device. Salts are conductive and could cause the circuit board to malfunction. I have cleaned many a legacy PS2 keyboard with coffee or soda spills in them and on a humid day they start to act up. Additionally a can of "duster" spray is also effective in removal of salts.
Thanks for the info!
I think I should not have said the surface of the Gold was "corroded" but "coated" From Wikipedia: "Tarnish is also a thin layer of corrosion that forms over copper, brass, aluminum, magnesium, neodymium and other similar metals." Of Gold Wikipedia explains "It is one of the least reactive chemical elements and is solid under standard conditions."
Yooo!! A BMET!!!!! Very underrated career field. Thanks keeping lifesaving devices like AEDs calibrated.
Wtf is a pink pearl/pure gum? Is this different from bubble gum? Also, searching for Pink Pearl leads me to either jewelry or the Steven Universe character.
@@triadwarfarepink pearl is a kind of pencil eraser-gum is another word for eraser in some parts of the world-hope that helps!
I'm *so* happy to click "like" on a helpful video that doesn't artificially inflate two minutes of content with eight minutes of filler.
Thanks! I hate watching a word salad filler video, too! so that’s why I try to keep all of my videos as short and precise as possible.
Correct, direct and to the point! Love it!
Ain't that the truth !
Oh puh-leassse. Thanks for putting that into words ... better than I could. arrrrg that drives me nutz.
Well said, @stevensoutdoors .
Great video no loud intro just straight to the point
Thanks! I try to keep things short and concise with my videos 👍🏼 people's time is valuable.
I agree, in part. Good content, but it would be 10 times better without the corny jokes.
@@BobChanterthis comment section would be ten times better without scrooges like you.
As someone who has dealt with electronics as a job (in the military and after), I can say that the eraser is for something completely different. It's for cleaning contacts that have become tarnished. Not a corrosive build up. Also, you need to use a more abrasive eraser than the standard #2 pencil. Yes, they make erasers for this job. Something else that you can do is put some sand paper on the end of a pencil and rub off the corrosion. Something like a 150 or 180 grit would work for something like this. You may have to use a higher grit, 220 or 320, for more sensitive contacts.
Thanks for the input!
Erasers made for ink are usually abrasive (because apparently someone thought that "erasing" ink by scouring away the paper is a good idea). Some ink pens have abrasives as well as the old school erasers that were pink on one end and grayish-white on the other end (the abrasives are in the white end).
I find an emery board works better than sandpaper.
Do they still make the eraser pencils with the brush on the end that they used to use for typing mistakes?
I actually needed this info :)
Alkaline battery corrosion neutralized by an acid [vinegar.] Makes sense and the bubbling is proof. Thanks! Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub! 👍🏼
The greatest tip from this video is in the comments about Duracell batteries being the worst. Thanks and the cleaning procedure was spot on too
Thanks for this clear and uncomplicated tutorial. I’ve just revived one of my grandson’s toys which one day came out of the bottom of the toy box dead. He of course hadn’t seen it for a while but immediately lit up when it was in his hand. Only to be disappointed when it didn’t turn on. I thought, “Uh-oh,” when I went to change the batteries. I tried to clean it (eraser, toothpick), but no-go. I thought about sweeping it into the trash can, but left it on the counter, in plain sight-keep your failures front of mind if you want to change the outcome! Two days later this came up in my feed (thanks, You Tube!) and now I’m a hero. Subscribed, for re-inforcing my newfound hero handyman status in the future.
Great story! I love stories like this. Now you’re ready for your next handyman project.
That is how DIY videos should be. Simple, short and precise. Extremely liked your video!
Thanks! I appreciate that
Thank you. You helped me repair my late grandfather's laserpointer, that meant the world to me, he used to show me buildings around the city and explain their history to me.
Thank you, from my heart.
So glad to help you. I’m very sentimental too, so I can appreciate your happiness 👍🏼
Great video. Being a member of the Ham radio community.....many of us never use the "copper top" brand of batteries. They seem prone to leak much more than other brands.
Thanks for the info!
Yup, Duracell are now a "zombie" brand, manufactured by who knows who. Absolute garbage.
Yes I stopped using them because of that. I only use energizer and never had them leak.
@@enzop.3227 , I have had occasional leakage from Energizer batteries but never from the lithium types.
note that the *excellent rated* Costco Kirkland batteries are claimed to be rebranded Duracell coppertops.
I buy energizer batteries.
I have done this in the past. Works great! Also white vinegar will loosen/remove rust.
Glad you’ve had the same great results!
Vinegar also softens and loosens concrete stuck to plastic cases and devices.
I had absolutely no faith in this video. Did as instructed and worked like a charm. A genuine thank you. 🙏🏽
You're welcome! I'm glad it didn't let you down! What did you fix?
The standard AA and AAA "copper top" batteries are worthless for anything except use in a toy that will quickly use up the battery. I am an individual that actually goes through the trouble of recycling my batteries, as you're suppose to, and I collect a bunch of them over time in a plastic container and then take them all in at one time. The "copper top" batteries were the only ones in the pile of AA and AAA batteries that had begun to leak. I no longer use them at all, I instead use Amazon Basic batteries and they have been just fine.
I once sent in a complaint to Duracell as corrosion had occurred with one of their AA batteries in a wall clock even though the battery was years away from it's expiration date. They sent back a gift certificate to buy more Duracell batteries. I sent the gift certificate back to them telling them to give it to someone who was still willing to use Duracell batteries.
My mom buys the Costco packs of Duracell and Kirkland batteries. I have seen them already leaking before the package was even opened! Around 80% of the whole box!
Finally a useful video! I bought a used game at Goodwill and my son was so disappointed that it didn’t work. Thanks to your video, I was able to bring it back to life! I’m excited because it’s an educational game, he’s going to learn something, and I’m not out any money. He’s excited because his new game works. Thank you!! 🎉🎉
Good job, Glad I could help! I love hearing success stories like this
I noticed those were Duracell batteries that caused the damage. That's why I don't use Duracell any more...
Yeah, Duracell are notorious for leaking. They’ve lost my business after this package.
Notice that the majority of them are Duracell. They used to never have this problem many years ago. I quit buying them. Switched to Enloops from Panasonic.
Yeah, I used to have good luck with Duracell, but I think I’ll switch too. Where do find buy Enloops?
Never buy Sony batteries, they leak in the package, even when they have an exp. date, 3 years in the future. Have a wonderful weekend ✌️😊 🕊️🍀❣️
If you put a Duracell in, it's going to leak period.
Oh yeah, loved Panasonic batteries. Then I couldn't source them anymore! 🫤
* Here's a tip that has worked for me, don't use Duracell batteries. Enersizers are much better.
I agree.
And especially Rayovac batteries. They ruined a couple of my Mag flashlights. They're rubbish.
Also removing the corrosion hidden under the battery compartment is essential. It requires disassembly of the affected unit to get access to all those nooks and crannies not immediately seen.
this is probably true. however, i find this is good enough for what i do, and have never had any problems since, and saves time with disassembly.
deoxit d5 works much better than vinegar for cleaning corrosion or oxidized contacts
I typically use warm sodium hydroxide followed by a little alcohol then a little vinegar, then baking soda then lots of filtered water. Lastly 99% isopropyl. Never thought about qtips.Typically just use a tooth brush. Will have to try qtips next time.
@@MichaelMantionWhy are you using alkaline products. Those make sense if it is a zinc carbon battety?
Many times I had to open the device and restore the printed circuit. In most cases I won, but sometimes lost.
I have worked in the construction laser sales and repair business for 23 years and I can tell you a $10 set of batteries that has leaked like this can cause hundreds of dollars of damage or more. My hobby is music and I can also say that you can ruin guitars, guitar pedals and electronic keyboards the same way. You give great advice on correcting minor damage but to prevent it all together remove batteries from anything that isn't in use or stored for any length of time and don't subject your stuff to extreme temperatures. Also a product named DeoxIT is good but more expensive than vinegar and alcohol. Also the worst and most often leaks and out-gassing I have seen is from Duracell brand batteries.
I agree, don't buy Duracell and take out the batteries on expensive electronics when not in look. Thanks for the input and sharing your experience
Shut up please, we all know not to leave batteries in but its human nature to forget.
@@tamekaconley9753wow, what a jerk. So unnecessary.
After attempting to use a wire brush and flat head screwdriver to no avail, I looked for an answer on RUclips. Came across your video, and with nothing to lose, gave it a shot. IT WORKED! You just made my kiddos day getting their train remote to work with their train set. Thank you! Now this has me thinking about all the items thrown away that could have been saved! lol
Glad it help!! Love hearing stories like that. Yeah, I've had that thought too, how many electronics I've thrown away in the past!
I agree! 😂 all the items thrown away...
Those Duracell batteries will leak EVERY TIME‼️They are the WORST‼️
Been using alcohol to clean the battery contacts. Appreciate the vinegar recommendation👍
I agree, I'm not buying them after I'm done with this package. Shame, they used to be the best brand IMO
This is why I switched to NiMH rechargeables several years ago for literally everything except smoke/CO detectors - due to the different chemistry they literally NEVER leak. They're much better than they used to be with much lower self-discharge properties. Easily get a year between charges on low-drain devices (remotes, etc...)
Thanks for the info!
The problem with NiMH batteries is that they are only 1.2 volts which doesn't work well with some electronic devices. I'm switching over to lithium rechargeable now. They last so much longer!
@@aleischer That's true. Fortunately hasn't been an issue for me aside from "low battery" indicators coming on much earlier than would otherwise be accurate.
I've had them leak. Maybe it's me. I've had them all leak.
@@bigred9428 Modern NiMH mostly do not contain liquid electrolyte, so leaking should mostly be a thing of the past.
We have a lot of these happening to our electronics as we're in a small Pacific island due to salty air + humidity.
What I do is use sheer off a wooden tongue blade/depress against the grain so I have a flat but tough fibrous tool to remove corrosion, or shave it until I get the size that I want for small work.
Won't damage plastics or tinned pcb connectors. Then I clean with rubbing alcohol, then add some light grease such as petroleum jelly (silicon grease for higher end stuff) and it's good for quite a long while.
Greetings from the tiny islands of Palau 🇵🇼🇵🇼🇵🇼!
Thanks for the tip. Hello to Palau islands from Handyman Hertz! 🇵🇼
I've been doing this cleaning procedure for 50 years. It works.
👍🏼
50 years? Why didn't you tell me about it 49 years ago? 😊
Left some duracells in a tv remote too long, the springs punctured the batteries they were so bad. This video has been a big help in cleaning off the corrosion.
Glad to hear it helped! I love success stories!
Baking soda dissolved in water works too, just like cleaning deposits from car batteries. Take the device apart if possible to check for more corrosion behind the battery compartment, and also prevent damage to the circuit board by leaking cleaning fluid on it.
Thanks for the tips!
In my experience, anything abrasive will tend to attract oxidation of the metal contacts, but the finer the abrasive (like polish) the longer the gear will last before having to be cleaned again. I agree that where batteries have leaked, a weak acid on a swab is best to remove the encrusting metal salts. I'd discourage using tools like screwdrivers, file or sand paper etc at least as much as possible. If you do have to use something like that, then go with as fine an abrasive as you can to get the job done & a good metal polish afterwards. Polishes are not all equal, I tend to use Autosol metal polish as I have found it gets a high polish pretty quickly & it's more of a paste so it doesn’t run all over the place like liquid polishes can. Clean the polish off with alcohol & then apply an electrical contact cleaner conditioned like DeOxit F5 or similar product. This dries to leave a thin semiconducting skin over the contacts that excludes oxygen from causing corrosion anytime soon. It's thin enough to be very low resistances at the actual contact, but it's resistive enough to not cause short circuits across to other components. In my decades of experience maintaining auditorium PA equipment, these semiconducting contact cleaner/conditioner produces tend to last at least 6-10 times longer than just using a straight contact cleaner or alcohol.
Some products are not safe on some contact types, but the Deoxit product seem to be safe on most things. I have cleaned a lot of component tracks & buttons, remote controls, computers, analogue audio equipment (mixers, equalisers etc). If one side of the contact looks like metal, the cleaner conditioner product will most likely work very well. If, however both contacts look non-metallic, you’re probably best served cleaning with, alcohol. If you do use a conditioner product & it doesn’t work, try cleaning that off with alcohol & drying it. Do not touch the contacts with your skin as this can leave an oily residue.
Thanks for your input! I appreciate it 👍🏼
Duracell battery's always leak, they are not that good, That's why I don't use them any more. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the corrosion, that's really handy
Yeah, Duracell are notorious for leaking. They’ve lost my business after this package.
I'm old enough to remember when batteries didn't leak, and when they did the battery company would fix or replace your item.
seems kind of crazy to think someone would take a AAA battery in for a company to fix or warranty it
@@HandymanHertzNo, that's NOT what he's saying. You could write to the company if their batteries ruined your device and the company would repair OR replace your device. I have done this. They couldn't find a replacement so they just sent me money to cover the cost of my device, It was a battery operated tie rack.
Wow, those seems to be the days!
This is why I no longer use Duracell batteries. I had a new pack sitting in the drawer and they corroded in the package. All this technology and you can't figure out how to keep them from leaking. They must be in cahoots with manufacturers.
I agree, their reputation and quality is circling the drain. Shame.
Duracell changed how they manufacture their AA batteries. I have an old thermostat that is powered by two batteries. Last Winter, the display had dimmed and to my astoniment, those batteries were labeled 2012! Neither one had leaked. The ones I have labeled until 2028 LEAKED after two years! I know this as I put them in a TV remote for a Smart TV I bought four years ago and didn't want to use the off brand batteries supplied.
Yeah, Duracell has become notorious for their leaking batteries. So many comments on here regarding that. They have definitely lost my business, which is sad, because I used to think they were the best brand out there.
Simple.. once you know how. Your humor was warm and welcome. Your strategy was to the point and clearly stated. Very well organized video. (5 stars)
Thank you for your kind words! Thanks for watching 👍🏼
I stopped using Duracell batteries and now use only Energizer Max batteries. The AA and AAA Energizer Max are guaranteed not to leak for 2 years.
That’s what I’m going to do too
Dude, it's the first time I seen this! When you said to tap the like button at 1:32, the button actually glowed! is this an option now on the video editor or it's a easter egg from youtube?
Right? I saw that, too, and wondered the same thing.
I can tell you it’s nothing that I did special, I’ve heard that from someone else also. Weird.
One tip, do not use Duracell. They seem to be the worst for failing and corroding. I believe Costco's batteries are also made by Duracell
I agree, I'm not buying them after I'm done with this package. Shame, they used to be the best brand IMO
The pencil erasers work well for cleaning 'dirty' contacts, ie when the contacts are dull or even black. They are not up to the task for clearing corrosion.
I was going to say the same thing. Erasers are good for flat contacts or things that just need a little cleaning.
Good to know, thank you for explaining that.
, ideally you need *ink* erasers which have a little silica (sand, pumice or fiberglass) mixed into the eraser rubber. I use them often for cleaning relay contacts. However, to get inbetween the springs and down to the rivet that holds the spring, you need a fiberglas-bristle"scratch brush". The hidden problem that you can't really fix with the vinegar is that there will invariably be corrosion in that crimp point between the rivet, the spring and the circuit board or metal plate, and the vinegar won't remove it all (note the green corroded rivet) so eventually it will become problematic at that spot unless you can clean it sufficiently enough to solder the rivet and spring together. It's much easier to do this *before* the batteries leak and cause corrosion.
I will be searching for that fiberglass bristle scratch brush! I used to have a flat burnishing tool that was originally for cleaning relay contacts. I don't know where that went, but it was pretty good in springs.
@@charlespatt , contact burnishing tools can be a little rough and may remove too much plating from say tge contacts of a relay. At work we prefer the ink eraser for this. The older pencil type erasers where the abrasive rubber rod was encased in a pencil-like wood handle (Staedtler, Ebersol, Castell brands) work best but the older ones dry up and crumble (theyre apparently natural latex rubber) and the newer ones are made in China or Venezuela from of some kind of vinyl like "plastic" eraser substance that is doughy and contains no silica or grit. Tombow does make a retractable eraser pen that uses stiffer fiberglass-impregnated rubber sticks ( refillable) that can be very handy for cleaning relay contacts and so on.
Good info. I don't use my label maker much so I keep the batteries in a plastic bag and use when needed. It doesn't take long. For installed batteries I set up a 6 month calendar reminder to check those batteries. You have to have the discipline to do the work but it saves me from problems like this.
this sounds like the best practice. Thanks for sharing
Much more common problem these days, thanks to battery manufacturers making their batteries cheaper (in quality, not price). A well designed and manufactured battery should not leak, and for many years I didn't have battery leakage problems with Duracell batteries. Over the past eight or more years that changed to the point that it is now common on any of my battery powered tools, toys, lights, etc. I now change the batteries well before they are actually used up, to avoid the damage. I plan to change to the latest EverReady designs that have a thicker case and better seal to see if that takes care of the problem.
Avoid Duracelll!!! Personally, I had always used Duracell up to a couple years ago because they ALWAYS ALL LEAKED and ruined a few devices. Even corroded the gloss top of a nightstand from a remote laying there that leaked through the cover!. Not sure if they still guarantee them from leaks, but couple years ago I called Duracell on their guarantee on a couple of devices, described them to the operator and was graciously reimbursed for their value, like this was a common thing. So now I use EverReady, "Energizer Max" everywhere.
All of my Duracell batteries leaked over the past few years. AAs destroyed a battery operated sliding door blind and the AAAs destroyed a nice Streamlight flashlight. When they leaked and burst they got jammed into and split the battery tubes. Also two different TV remotes were almost ruined but they could just be cleaned. So I googled it and turns out it is an issue specific to Duracell. So after years of buying the copper top I switched to Energizer lithium that are guaranteed not to leak. Its just not worth taking the risk and I still can not believe how bad the Duracells were. 😡
Yeah, Duracell are notorious for leaking. They’ve lost my business after this package.
Not ever a problem if you buy Amazon batteries. I have gone through a couple hundred with never a one leaking.
@@christopherterry5457
I’ve done research on different batteries and read that Amazon batteries can explode.
Although the Duracell batteries seem to outlast the Energizers, they do seem to corrode more readily.
I agree
I’ve used to use Duracell batteries and found them to be excellent.
Excellent, that is if you want a new device, and are willing to press your case.
I have never attempted to do this illegally, it has only been after discovering a device is not working, and when checking the battery compartment, discovered that the Duracell batteries have leaked and damaged contacts and printed circuit tracks, rendering the devices inoperable.
Over a period of a few years, when I thought they were ok, I used them, and on 3 occasions Duracell replaced expensive equipment e.g. Fluke meters and the like.
On each occasion they required photographic evidence, but never asked me to send the equipment to them. They simple sent a cheque, for a substantial amount.
I then bought replacement equipment, repaired the Damaged equipment, and had 2 devices to use when fault finding.
In the end I stopped using Duracell, and ever since have used Energiser, which have never leaked.
Interesting, this is good to know, thanks for sharing it.
I had forgotten to take out the batteries of an old remote, but important remote.
Sadly, it was face down rather than right-side up.
So when the danged batteries leaked, FOR YEARS, the acid seeped down onto the circuit board and ate right through the traces AND THE PCB ITSELF!!!
In trying to clean it up, I realized that it was a waste of time because there were missing traces where I couldn't find their path.
Sure, I do have another remote, the same, but it's the last one for this DVR, so I'm not going to open that up to use it as a guide..... well... not yet anyway. LOL
Sadly, I can't guy a replacement!
@@BlondieSL Hi. I suspect that a remote will have some very thin “lands”, the thin copper connections between components. If you can clean the lacquer of, it’s possible to replace the tracks with thin insulated wire, but you will need to be a dab hand with a very small soldering iron. Too much heat will cause the adhesive to fail and the very thin copper will lift.
Still as the alternative is to do nothing, trying might be worth a go.
Good luck.
@@Jestey6I guess that it wasn't clear. I'm a technician and have been for decades.
I have repaired more remotes in my career that I'd like to admit.
With that one remote, the important one, without opening up the other one that I have that is like new, there's no way to follow any trace as actual PCB has been eaten through! LOL
This remote is for a Channel Master PVR (a 2nd one) and once I service that, knowing myself, I'll open up the good remote so that I can follow the trace and use wires to restore the bad remote.
The big challenge will be to try and fix the actual contact pads that also got eaten away.
To fix those, I'm going to have to make a form and use Gorilla hot glue (the best) to re-create the bed. Then, using fine wires, inlay new contacts. This has to be done under the microscope.
But yeah, for clarity, I do know how to fix remotes. I'm just in lazy-mode these days. LOL Which is why that 2nd PVR is sitting on the Lab bench, in pieces, waiting for me to re-cap the entire PCB. LAZY THIS BLONDIE!
@@BlondieSL In my defence, I was unsure if Blondie related to hair colour, or gender, and now I can feel the ice cracking under my feet 🤔.
I too meddle in most things in my workshop, and have a go, so good luck when you decide to also decide to have a go………
I always use vinegar to clean ALKALINE battery corrosion. I then use alcohol to "rinse" when done. Instead of screw driver, a toothbrush will clean the rest off. Test terminals for continuity and use as before... Excellent video and 100% accurate..
Thanks! 👍🏼
This worked beautifully with my portable microphone. I followed the instructions step by step and it worked. Thank you very much
Great, glad to hear it! Glad you fixed your microphone.
I am an electronics technician with over 40 years of experience. It is bad enough to almost have to write off a customers item due to corrosion from a leaked battery. But, when it happens to one of your own test instruments.............That probably explains my hair loss.
In Australia, many years ago, I trusted Toshiba batteries. They never leaked. But, in the last 10 years or so, they now leak. They obviously have cut some corners in production. I have even had them leak before opening the package! I bought them in bulk thinking that was a good thing, not so.
Nowadays, I trust Panasonic batteries. They even state leak proof on their package. You might pay a bit more for them. But, boy, it certainly is worth it if you save a test instrument or don't have to waste time trying to resurrection the tv remote.
Okay, another vote for Panasonic from someone who knows a lot about batteries. Seems like a lot of people like Panasonic! Thanks for the input, glad to hear there's a good battery brand left out there… Duracell has lost my business for sure
Thanks for the information. But I also have found that removing the batteries from the device you are not using works even better. I also leave the batteries I've removed near that device, so if I need that device, the batteries are nearby. Great help, though because I have had this happen numerous times.
Thanks for the info!
Totally works! Saved my headphones. Thank you. 🎉
Great! Thanks for watching.
Good video! right to the point. A lot of people don't realize that all of the major battery manufacturers have a warranty on their batteries. If the device is damaged beyond repair they'll pay the replacement or repair cost of the damaged item. Not sure how difficult it is to make a claim on their warranty, but might be another option rather than throwing the device away.
P.S. I also use rechargeables now in all my electronics and flashlights. I only use the alkaleaks in kids toys which usually have a short lifespan anyway.
Interesting, thanks for sharing
Duracell used to make a big thing in their advertising about their “leakproof guarantee.” That’s now conspicuously absent from both the ads and the packaging here. I’m not sure if they no longer do it or they do and they just don’t want us to know about it. They seem to know their batteries leak. Energiser still offer that warranty and I’ve never had one of their batteries leak
Has anyone else noticed how much more prone to leakage batteries are today?
@@paulstimpson830 and yet I have had the OPPOSITE thing happen. Duracells have never leaked on me but Energizer ( has a Z in it….not a S ) have always leaked on me.
I tried that twice on the warranty claims but they refused to pay the claim both times. One time I couldn't produce the original product receit for proof of price on the product, the other time they told me the product was too old to replace and again no receit. Extended warranties from Radio Shack weren't worth the paper they printed on when they were still around, , and certainly not worth the price you paid for them. NEVER BUY AN EXTENDED WARRANTY ON A CONSUMER ELECTRONICS PRODUCT NOT WORTH THE PAPER THEY WRITTEN ON. All of these warranties are covered by a third party insurance carrier who always find an excuse not to pay or pro-rates the value so low you get very little. The like to use the "Act of God" clause a lot!!
It worked🎉🎉🎉😂😂 I can't believe it. I was ready to buy a new wireless mouse, before I watched this video I attempted to clean it myself and may have done some damage. I didn't know batteries do that and assumed I must not have been careful enough and spilled something on it. But turned it on now and it workssss, thank you❤
You're welcome! I don't know if yours was Duracell, but I no longer use Duracell, they are notorious for this. 👍🏼
Thank you so much. It’s Christmas Eve and you saved the day. I’m hosting and the battery exploded in our thermostat. I followed your instructions and they worked❤
Great! I love success stories like this, thank you for sharing and I’m glad it worked good for you!
Great tip. It allowed me to clean and recover a Sharp PC1500 pocket PC, a Texas Ti-84+ calculator, a Sony digital camera, a Creative Muvo MP3 player, a Canon X-07 hand held computer: functional antiques now and which were close to my heart, thank you👍
Wow, that's great! I love hearing success stories. Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
I used to use Duracell AA and AAA but for the last few years they leak while they are still functioning. It has caused a lot of damage to equipment . I even emailed Duracell about this but just gt a generic response. I have changed brands for these. The Duracell 9V and D cells seem fine.
I have had the same experience. I didn't try contacting them. I just don't use that brand anymore.
Thanks for your input, what brand do you use now for AA and AAA?
I've been using Panasonic for the past two years, too early to tell but so far so good@@HandymanHertz
This worked like a charm on a Halloween decoration I’ve had for over 20 years and didn’t want to throw away. Thank you! 😘
Great, Glad I could help! 👍🏼
You didn’t want to have it, or, you didn’t want to throw away?
Excellent information. I don’t use a screw driver directly on the metal as it might scratch too deeply. So I cut a small patch from a scotch bright pad and use the screw driver to scrub off the rest of the corrosion.
That's a brilliant idea, thank you for sharing. That's better than a screwdriver for sure!
Standard pencil eraser is for removing the haze of tarnish on a contact. Nothing more than a light haze. For a bit more corrosion use an ink eraser. Hard to find nowadays because White Out has mostly replaced it. It was an eraser that had some fine abrasive in it. Like very fine sand or perhaps pumice. But for erasing ink from paper it frequently rubbed a hole in the paper. But it was good for removing a bit more corrosion than just some tarnish.
Interesting, thanks for letting me know!
I remember those, but have not seen one in years
Thanks for making this video. Thanks to you, I was able to clean out the battery compartment on my old gameboy. The batteries were very badly corroded and leaked battery acid all over. I had a hard time pulling the batteries out, they were stuck in there good. I cleaned out the compartment the best I could but the gameboy wouldn’t work. Then I found your video and after trying your technique for cleaning it, my gameboy finally worked again! Woohoo! 😄
Again thanks! 😁👍👍
Oh man! I loved game boys as a kid so I'm glad you got it fixed!
Duraleak, the number 1 culprit.
Exactly, after my package of Duracell is done, I won’t buy anymore. Too disappointing
So, this didn't happen only to me ‼️⁉️ Had a pair of AAA Duraleaks destroy a wireless keyboard rendering it unusable.
Actually it’s Energizer that leaks the most.
I've had lots of battery powered devices repaired after having Duraleaks inside. Always recommend other brands. Never saw that on Energizers
@@DigikidthevoiceofreasonNah, duraleak.
Just revived an old Thunderbird rocket 🚀 my boy is excited!
Alright! Good job, Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Duracell batteries are the absolute WORST for leakage like this in my experience!!! They'll last longer than any other battery I've used so they are great if you need something like a radio or flashlight to run as long as it can IN ONE DAY but if you're gonna keep batteries in a device for months or years better use the 2nd best which doesn't leak ENERGIZER!!! That's what I switched to and never have been sorry!
I agree, Duracell are notorious for leaking. They’ve lost my business after this package.
I removed all the visible corrosion but the device would not power on, but your White Vinegar suggestion removed all of it and just like that, you saved me $80, Nice!!!
Great! So glad to hear it!!
Quick and to the point! Thank you for helping me clean up the bass pedal I bought off Facebook!
Glad I could help!
COOL, Rock on !
This helped me to fix "broken" walkie talkies, thanks!!
Alright! Glad to help and I love a successful fix 👍🏼
Batteries have been around for over 100 years. I can't believe they haven't figured out how to stop them from leaking. In my opinion, the worst is Duracell. I only buy Energizers.
I agree, I'm not buying them after I'm done with this package. Shame, they used to be the best brand IMO
Learned this decades ago: vinegar for acid. Been doing this for over 40 years. Instead of straight screwdriver, I was taught to use a bit of steel wool around the screwdriver to minimize gouging.
Steel wool, that’s a great idea. Thanks for the tip.
@@HandymanHertz I’ve even thought about creating a Q-tip type version with steel wool on a stick.
Careful with steel wool, if any little strands break off they could cause a short - particularly if they get inside the device. I've used black wet/dry sandpaper - very fine grit, to clean off the hard deposits. You can wrap it around a flat head screwdriver or a plastic spudger to get into tight spaces.
I use baking soda, It works OK. I also use a dentil scraping tool for those tough spots. Your idea is good also. Thanks H H .👍
Great tip. I bet the dental scraping tool is the best for fine scraping
Baking soda is for acid based batteries like your lead acid car batteries. The Alkaline batteries are actually a base so you need the acid from the vinegar to neutralize the alkaline.
You are the best! I have a radar gun that I need to use for a baseball tryout tonight. It worked! Thanks
You're welcome, glad you got it fixed
freakin duracells man. Its always the duracells
I’m thinking about switching brands, what do you use?
@@HandymanHertz Panasonic Leak Free or any rechargable. Duracell since selled to Warren Buffett, its a lottery. Almost lost a mult-tester, a Bosch Laser Meter and some TV remote controllers. "Leakcell" never more.
Works so well- have fixed 3 remotes & just a flashlight thanks !
Quick and to the point while also doing a great job of explaining all of the terms. Great video, thank you!
Thanks! Glad it helped!
They would fix or replace your flashlight or toy
Omg, you are awesome! Tried this technique with 2 different remotes. I have to get the right sized batteries for one, but the other one worked like a charm! & ironically, to the person who said, "Don't buy Duracell," I pulled out a package of old Duracells that have never been opened, & they were all corroded too. Energizer for life!
Great! Glad it worked for you! I think of all the electronics I've thrown away through the years I could have saved.
Thank you. Direct and to the point.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I'm helping a friend combine 2 houses into one. Found 8 clocks hanging on the walls not working !!!! 2 just needed a new battery but hopefully I can do as video showed and get them ticking again. Thank you 😊
My 22 year old buzz light year now works! Thank you 👍
Cool, I love hearing stories like this. Makes me seem like what I do is worthwhile! 🐝 💫
gave up on a ceiling window remote, trying to clean it. used your method, bingo! Thanks, saved me a trip up the looong ladder to pair a new remote!
Thanks for the tip! I’ve revived some electronics using WD-40 and a toothbrush. I forgot that vinegar can dissolve corrosion. I wish I had used it when I had a cheap (but good for what it was) shower radio that had corroded batteries. WD-40 didn’t work on that one, sadly.
Wd-40 I’ve never used that. great idea, thanks!
Saved my stuff, thank you!
So glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Brief, educational, helpful.. Gold 👌
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching!
@@HandymanHertz thanks for making the effort to make the video 👍
You bet 👍🏼
forgot 2 batteries in a keyboard for 2 years and... ouch ! a lot of corrosion, Needed to use a screwdriver just to take out the batteries... I tried your trick and it worked ! thanks 👍👍
A very simple case is shown when you only need to remove salt deposits.
Unfortunately, usually the contact pads and springs are severely damaged by corrosion and require replacement.
Thanks for the input. Luckily, I’ve never come across this yet
Hell yeah, brother. Thank you for the help. It took me 5 minutes, and my stuff works again.
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
Watched this one first since it was only two minutes and it worked perfectly. I used an old hard bristle toothbrush to get a lot of the corrosion gunk off first. But it does mean the sizzle isn’t so much fun!
Thanks for picking this video to watch. Better go put a steak on the grill since you missed out on the sizzle. 👍🏼
@@HandymanHertz I wish the grills in my apt complex worked!
This arrived in a timely manner as I have a flashlight with leaking Kirkland batteries. It is only a cheap one, but I'll still take a little time to clean it up. I'm surprised to hear so many people commenting about leaking Duracell / KIrkland batteries. I'll have to keep it in mind for my next battery purchase.
Yeah, I'm same as you..I didn't know there was such an issue with these two brands until this videos comments. I'm starting away from them
1:10 Or use a fiberglass brush...Way better...
Hadn’t heard of that, thanks for the tip
I just used this to clean up after 1 of 3 RAYOVAC AA batteries oozed after sitting in a device stored in my hot garage for 2-1/2 years.
THANKS!
Funny how it always seems to be Duracells that do that
Yeah, Duracells are notorious for leaking.
Using a small emery board is particularly effective cleaning up contacts after the alcohol and vinegar treatment. All makes of batteries eventually corrode. Thanks for your video, a steak sounds lovely!
Thanks for the tip, I hadn't heard of that before. 👍🏼
good video. i've used rechargeable batteries for many years and they never corrode :)
What brand of rechargeable batteries do you use?
Yup, the old-school method still works! I've been using that method for decades and most importantly, after all that time, I STILL FORGET BATTERIES IN THINGS. LOL
Just 2 days ago, I noticed an old remote, that we haven't used in more than 15 years, started flashing a red LED... OK, THAT'S NEW!
I had forgotten to remove the batteries in all those years!!!
To my great surprised, while the batteries did leak, it wasn't that bad at all! Normally, with that length of time, all the metal would have been chewed up beyond repair.
I used to use the screw driver tip like that, but then I got this Ryobi rotary too, cordless and a whole kit of those green rubbery bits (ok, that sounded bad) and I'll say, this thing cleans up nicely.
Gotta love old-school!
Thanks for the tip!
Duracells are leakers ! No more duracell in my expensive instruments !
Same here. I’m done after this package of Duracells
I have a zoom Q3 handy video recorder that had been stored with batteries for about 5 years with batteries. the battery compartment was corroded. I cleaned it the best I could, but it still did not work with the new batteries. I found this video, and did exactly as you said, now my recorder is working with batteries. Thank you so much for this video.
Glad it worked for you!
Good idea. This can be prevented if you use rechargeable batteries and not batteries. Without a doubt, not all devices can work with 1.2V batteries, but some do. I use Brother PT-H107B and have no problems. By the way, I have been using rechargeable batteries for 20 years and they have never leaked.
Thanks for sharing
I tried using them in the past, but they were too unreliable.
Clear, concise and fast. Nice!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for going straight to the point, unlike some people's video one have to watch for 15 minutes to finally get to 30 seconds main issue.
Your welcome. I always try to be considerate with peoples time in all of my videos, the best I can. 👍🏼
I see the problem here. Duracell has gone to hell in a basket the last few years. I've stopped buying them because their batteries have ruined 3 devices for me and I've even had a package of Duracell AAA's leak before they were even taken out of the package. Duracell used to be a good brand but their qc or production has gone into the tank.
Cleaning the battery compartment of a little toy piano right now and gotta say: The sizzle IS super fun!
😀 yesssssss
Duracell is the worst most corrosive battery you can buy. They should change the slogan to the leaky top instead of copper top
I call 'em Corrodacells.
I agree, I'm not buying them after I'm done with this package. Shame, they used to be the best brand IMO
Thank you so much for this video. I appreciate that you go straight into it, without wasting our time. I've never tried vinegar like this on electronics. works like a charm. I have an old calculator that's up and running now.
You're welcome, straight into it is my style of videos I make. Glad you got the old calculator up and running!
Duracell battery's leaking I am not surprised numerous time's I have had this problem I now avoid them like the plague
I agree, I'm not buying them after I'm done with this package. Shame, they used to be the best brand IMO
Nice video. Interesting approach. I have been doing the opposite. I use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to clean corroded contacts. Neutralizes the acid and washes contacts clean.
Interesting, thanks for sharing your process.
All my corrosion problems were always caused by Duracell batteries, never a problem with any other brand.
Same, I think I’m switching to energizer
It worked and so easy - thank you.
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
Here’s an idea that I have used for years, if it is an item that you use in frequently, remove the batteries until your next to use. I put them in a small baggie with that item and I never get corrosion.
seems like a lot of work, but that would be a good idea. Seems like not using duracell brand is a good idea too. lots of complaints in these comments on them
@@HandymanHertz items that you use sporadically such as, digital thermometer, portable blood pressure cuff, etc. are the items that I separate the batteries from.
My flashlights are charged by USB.
I think the problem with the copper top batteries is when they are inserted and they are under some kind of load, which causes them to leak. I have yet to see the copper top batteries in their packaging that ever leaks.
That’s my 2¢ 😂
@@jasonjackson5696 interesting. Yeah, your 2 cents makes sense to me 😃