What a great tutorial. So generous from your part, making a comprehensive and detailed description of the process. It was incredibly useful. Thank you so much.
As a Photoshop teacher at a college, I want my students' work displayed on our (and their!) walls. Our previous methods were cheesy at best. But your tutorial has shown me how to give my students a way to create their own hands-on display mats. Thanks, Craig! I'll be showing your video in class and ordering the Logan cutter and materials before I leave today.
Thank you Craig, two prints of mine have been accepted in a show with a sustainability theme. I haven't cut mats for over three years so I felt I needed a refresher. How pleased I was to find a familiar face, a face belonging to someone I respect with all things photography.
This is the best video on matting a picture I have ever seen! you outdid yourself. I thought you were getting a bit carried away at times, but I was wrong. Bravo!
Thanks for this, I've had this mat cutter for ten years, used it once and forgot about it. I am getting back into this and for some reason couldn't wrap my head around the black and white instruction manual, so this visual and detailed explanation was EXTREMELY helpful!
I haven't cut mat board in 15+ years and am looking to re-do a bunch of prints in the house and add some from vacations. Your video was very specific, sold the tools I'd need to buy to do this right, and covered everything I forgot since art school. Thanks!
hi Craig; i haven't cut a mat in over 40 years. i was a poor college student the last time i bought a mat cutter that fit in the palm of my hand, and a straight edge ruler. i cut a lousy beveled mat. Made a lot of mistakes. i love your tutorial. Thanks a lot. I am now a retired photojournalist and i want to exhibit. This awesome tutorial you've created is a big help. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you so much Craig for your absolutely amazing tutorial. I a self taught photographer who is just starting to mat my images. Your tutorial is very special, simple and to the point. Thank you, Umesh :)
I had a Logan mat cutter back in the 1970's. It looks like it has some improvements, but it is a wonderful device. I made many good looking mattes with it. Thanks for refreshing me on the kind process.
23:13 This is where you should be mounting with dry mount tissue and a dry mount press like a Seal 210M. Like your mat cutter, mine is 20 years old. Bought it for $1100. It’s what helps make you a professional photographer
Great demo on the Logan but not the bes practice used on the mounting, recommended method for hinging the backboard to the mat is to hinge it on the long side not the short side, also it is better to use T hinges at the top of the print so that it hangs the print rather than a whole length of tape at the bottom, a long length of tape would stop the artwork from expanding and contracting.One more important thing to do is to seal your finished mat and backboard to prevent bugs and moisture entering the artwork. Also if you are using wooden frames, it’s important to seal the inside of the frame to prevent any acidic leaking into the mount package. Hope this helps everyone.
I looked into a mat cutter many years ago and somehow got side tracked. Your video has definitely set my search in motion again. Thanks for a helpful video.
Thank you! I just bought this cutter after having issues with another professional cutter that was expensive and very out of date and never cut my windows clean or straight. This should make mat cutting & framing for my shop much more enjoyable. GREAT demonstration. I like the idea of the tape you are using over what I have been doing. Kudos to you! Thanks again.
Wonderful, well presented. A question, is there a reason to Push the cutting blade away from you? My first inclination would be to pull it toward me. Does it matter? Can the blade be moved in the cutter piece? Not sure if Craig is on here anymore so anyone else know?
watched from thialand the land of the crap frames and no mat windows. (but nice smiles and pleasant living instead) Oh so very cool to see this being done, even if I could import the cutter I'd still not be able to get the mat stock so Ive now reverted to printing a frame white area offset in photoshop and letting my BRILLIANT local printers (on I think a Richo mahine) do superb photographic quality colour prints and Im using cheap frames which look good, why I came here? The the high room/outside temperatures in Thailand make sticky tape run and get very messy I've tried various tapes but I am going to try KAPTON tape from the electronics industry It seems this might not degrade under heat and run into a sticky mess. Look it up and maybe try it. I think first aid tape may suffer in the heat here, I even tried aluminum tape to seal my frame backs, didnt work at all. Your photo is real nice I was expecting a wedding photo not nice art...thanks :-)
Nicely informative video. I have been using a Logan mat cutter like yours for many years. I notice you do not use a slip sheet underneath the mat board while cutting. I’ve tried it both ways, and I always get ragged results if I don’t use a slip sheet. How do you manage to cut a clean-edge mat without one?
Excellent demonstration. I might suggest looking into photo corners as opposed to taping the photo directly. Even archival tape is really annoying to have to remove later on should you want to.
Hi, your instructions were very helpful. Thank you. I have the same mat cutter and it says to use a backing sheet when cutting a bevel cut. I notice you didn't use one. Is it really necessary to use a backing sheet?
I enjoyed the mat cutter demonstration. You need to use a different method to attach your photograph tho since you don’t want tape to touch the photograph, even if it’s archival.
Great tutorial Craig. Always enjoy your videos. After researching what the framing companies charge for custom mat sizes, I'm going to tackle this myself. Have you ventured into cutting your own frames? That's next on my list.
Wow! You address any issue that might arise. Since you are a photographer, I'm assuming you did the videography as well. The video quality, angles and zoom were STELLAR! Saying "thank you" for doing this tutorial seem insufficient!!! But...THANK YOU! 🤗🤗
Nice video. Do you sign you sign your prints? If so I assume that you sign them directly on the outer mat? As for the tape my only concern is how it will last over time. Never seen tape capable lasting 40-50 years.
I sign the back of the print in the margin area that would be covered by the mat. If I am exhibiting a print I do not sign the outer mat. It is just a preference as I like a totally clean presentation, and when being exhibited there is always a Title, Medium, Artist label on the wall next to the photograph. If I sell a matted print I ask the buyer if they would like me to sign the outer mat. If they want me to, I do so in pencil in the corner just below the right edge of the beveled opening. Regarding the tape, I don't typically like to dry mount my prints to a board. I like to be able to remove the image from a mat if necessary. You are correct that no tape would last decades. But I don't leave my prints permanently matted. I exhibit them in the mats, after which I remove them from the mats and place them in print boxes. If someone buys a matted print I tell them that the matting/tape should be assessed and replaced as necessary. I don't think any print should be matted in the original matting material for decades.
Hello, I have a frame 16x20 and the photo I want to frame is 9x9. I calculate it and it shows 3.5 height and 5.5 width. I have the 301 S and it only 4inches on the cutter. How can I get the 5.5? Im a doing it wrong. Please help. Thanks.
The 301-s that Logan sells today will never last 20 years. Unfortunately they have gone to a very cheap base made of particle board that swells and breaks down after cutting a few mats.
That is sad to hear. Glad I bought mine so long ago. It has lasted me 20 years and I foresee it lasting indefinitely. I was lucky enough to find another one years ago at Goodwill for $10. So I have a backup if ever necessary.
Not to criticize gratuitously, but it seems all the people making these videos have never heard of dry mounting. Photographs, generally speaking are not irreplaceable (they can be reprinted) so they benefit from being displayed using a PERMANENT, perfectly flat mounting. Using tape on one edge, or t-mounts etc will always allow the photograph to bubble up or balloon out, and the uneveness in the surface is clearly visible. The photographic intent is best observed when the image is held perfectly flat, and dry-mounting (with a press) is the way this is achieved. What's your customer going to say when they buy a framed print, only to have the print fall out of the window in six months' time, or medical tape ooze to start running down its surface? The beveled mat allows an air space to exist netween the print surface and the glass, avoiding sticking from condensation, but only the hot-press dry mount will guarantee the print will permanently remain where you put it, and remain perfectly flat. And just one more thing - white gloves are the way to be sure your print is not going to start showing fingerprints tomorrow, of what you had for dinner yesterday. No point in buying "acid free" papers if you're going to run your fingers all over everything.
informative video, but I do have a couple gripes. If you're doing a video that's for instructional purposes, I think a black mat would have been easier for the viewer to see. Also, if you're drawing your lines on the back, why keep them so light that they're difficult to see? Just a couple of gripes. Otherwise this was a nice refresher as it's been years since I cut a mat
What a great tutorial. So generous from your part, making a comprehensive and detailed description of the process. It was incredibly useful. Thank you so much.
Just got a Logan mat cutter, trying to figure it out. Thank you for the instructions and tips! And best of luck with your photography business!👍
As a Photoshop teacher at a college, I want my students' work displayed on our (and their!) walls. Our previous methods were cheesy at best. But your tutorial has shown me how to give my students a way to create their own hands-on display mats. Thanks, Craig! I'll be showing your video in class and ordering the Logan cutter and materials before I leave today.
So Helpful ! I always come back to this video when I need to mat a painting. Thank you !
thank you. I am now inspired to get going with cutting my own Mats. No nonsense. you come across concise and without the usual nonsense. thank you
Thank you Craig, two prints of mine have been accepted in a show with a sustainability theme. I haven't cut mats for over three years so I felt I needed a refresher. How pleased I was to find a familiar face, a face belonging to someone I respect with all things photography.
This is the best video on matting a picture I have ever seen! you outdid yourself. I thought you were getting a bit carried away at times, but I was wrong. Bravo!
Thank-you, Thank-you, Thank-you! Your instructions were perfect and presented pefectly!
Thanks for this, I've had this mat cutter for ten years, used it once and forgot about it. I am getting back into this and for some reason couldn't wrap my head around the black and white instruction manual, so this visual and detailed explanation was EXTREMELY helpful!
Oh my goodness, I loved this! Thank you, thank you for the wonderfully thorough explanation of the process of cutting mat boards!
Nice tutorial. I lucked out and picked my Logan Compact from a thrift store for $5.00. Barely used and had everything it should have in the box.
I've always been nervous about mat-cutting because I didn't know how it was done, but this is incredibly informative and useful -- thank you!
A big thank you for such an excellent tutorial. The pace is perfect and your demonstration easy to follow.
really helpful and clear instructions on how to use the cutter - thank you!
I haven't cut mat board in 15+ years and am looking to re-do a bunch of prints in the house and add some from vacations. Your video was very specific, sold the tools I'd need to buy to do this right, and covered everything I forgot since art school. Thanks!
hi Craig; i haven't cut a mat in over 40 years. i was a poor college student the last time i bought a mat cutter that fit in the palm of my hand, and a straight edge ruler. i cut a lousy beveled mat. Made a lot of mistakes. i love your tutorial. Thanks a lot. I am now a retired photojournalist and i want to exhibit. This awesome tutorial you've created is a big help. Thanks a bunch.
EXCELLENT AND THROUGHLY DONE PROPERLY FOR A GREAT EXPLANATION! THANK YOU!
very informative tutorial, well explained - and at the right pace to hold your attention - I've learned more than I expected - thankyou
Thank you so much Craig for your absolutely amazing tutorial. I a self taught photographer who is just starting to mat my images. Your tutorial is very special, simple and to the point. Thank you, Umesh :)
I had a Logan mat cutter back in the 1970's. It looks like it has some improvements, but it is a wonderful device. I made many good looking mattes with it. Thanks for refreshing me on the kind process.
Such a wonderful help! Step by careful step. I really appreciate it
23:13 This is where you should be mounting with dry mount tissue and a dry mount press like a Seal 210M. Like your mat cutter, mine is 20 years old. Bought it for $1100. It’s what helps make you a professional photographer
Great demo on the Logan but not the bes practice used on the mounting, recommended method for hinging the backboard to the mat is to hinge it on the long side not the short side, also it is better to use T hinges at the top of the print so that it hangs the print rather than a whole length of tape at the bottom, a long length of tape would stop the artwork from expanding and contracting.One more important thing to do is to seal your finished mat and backboard to prevent bugs and moisture entering the artwork. Also if you are using wooden frames, it’s important to seal the inside of the frame to prevent any acidic leaking into the mount package. Hope this helps everyone.
This was fantastic! You are an excellent teacher thank you so much
Measure once, cut twice and adjust accordingly. Funny joke! Thanks for great info.
Craig,
Thank you for this video. I've been researching mat cutters and how to cut mats. This was very helpful.
Steven
Nicely done. The Logan cutters are vey good
Impressive technique, very well presented. Thank you.
I looked into a mat cutter many years ago and somehow got side tracked. Your video has definitely set my search in motion again. Thanks for a helpful video.
Thank you! I just bought this cutter after having issues with another professional cutter that was expensive and very out of date and never cut my windows clean or straight. This should make mat cutting & framing for my shop much more enjoyable. GREAT demonstration. I like the idea of the tape you are using over what I have been doing. Kudos to you! Thanks again.
Wonderful, well presented. A question, is there a reason to Push the cutting blade away from you? My first inclination would be to pull it toward me. Does it matter? Can the blade be moved in the cutter piece? Not sure if Craig is on here anymore so anyone else know?
Spot on! Excellent video, thanks for taking the trouble to record it. I now know what I want from Santa!!
Beautifully clear - very well done video and I have watched a lot of painful ones!
Thank you for a wonderful video. I will now try to cut a beveled window for my watercolor painting. Very informative!
Thanks for the video, I've always wondered how mat cutters worked.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
hi ))) It was super useful! And I enjoyed learning from you. Thank you for making this video and sharing with us! )))
Many thanks for this helpfull tutorial. I will be more confident with my very first cut!
Are you not supposed to use a backing sheet when bevel cutting (according to the label on the frame)
Very nicely done.
watched from thialand the land of the crap frames and no mat windows. (but nice smiles and pleasant living instead) Oh so very cool to see this being done, even if I could import the cutter I'd still not be able to get the mat stock so Ive now reverted to printing a frame white area offset in photoshop and letting my BRILLIANT local printers (on I think a Richo mahine) do superb photographic quality colour prints and Im using cheap frames which look good, why I came here? The the high room/outside temperatures in Thailand make sticky tape run and get very messy I've tried various tapes but I am going to try KAPTON tape from the electronics industry It seems this might not degrade under heat and run into a sticky mess. Look it up and maybe try it. I think first aid tape may suffer in the heat here, I even tried aluminum tape to seal my frame backs, didnt work at all. Your photo is real nice I was expecting a wedding photo not nice art...thanks :-)
Very good video thanks Graig.
Nicely informative video. I have been using a Logan mat cutter like yours for many years. I notice you do not use a slip sheet underneath the mat board while cutting. I’ve tried it both ways, and I always get ragged results if I don’t use a slip sheet. How do you manage to cut a clean-edge mat without one?
Awesome tutorial I am ready to try it!! Thank you!
Thanks Craig a really great tutorial.
this is freakin perfect! thanks!
Useful video thank you
Excellent demonstration. I might suggest looking into photo corners as opposed to taping the photo directly. Even archival tape is really annoying to have to remove later on should you want to.
thx, your a good teacher!
Hi, your instructions were very helpful. Thank you. I have the same mat cutter and it says to use a backing sheet when cutting a bevel cut. I notice you didn't use one. Is it really necessary to use a backing sheet?
I had the same question...
I had the same question, too.
I enjoyed the mat cutter demonstration. You need to use a different method to attach your photograph tho since you don’t want tape to touch the photograph, even if it’s archival.
Very useful, thank you.
This video was so helpful you did a great job thank you!
Great tutorial Craig. Always enjoy your videos. After researching what the framing companies charge for custom mat sizes, I'm going to tackle this myself. Have you ventured into cutting your own frames? That's next on my list.
damn nexcare tape is such a good idea. Linen tape is insanely expensive for no reason
Thank you! Good clear instruction!
Craig that 3M durable cloth tape is that the surgical tape or is there a specific one for mounting images.
Wow! You address any issue that might arise. Since you are a photographer, I'm assuming you did the videography as well. The video quality, angles and zoom were STELLAR! Saying "thank you" for doing this tutorial seem insufficient!!! But...THANK YOU! 🤗🤗
Thank you for the video. Where do you purchase the mat from?
Brilliant off to buy a cutter thanks
I, thank you for this excellent tutorial.
What a GREAT presentation ! Thank you. Your wallet ! Hilarious.
Is the nexcare durable cloth tape acid free?
Nice video. Do you sign you sign your prints? If so I assume that you sign them directly on the outer mat? As for the tape my only concern is how it will last over time. Never seen tape capable lasting 40-50 years.
I sign the back of the print in the margin area that would be covered by the mat. If I am exhibiting a print I do not sign the outer mat. It is just a preference as I like a totally clean presentation, and when being exhibited there is always a Title, Medium, Artist label on the wall next to the photograph. If I sell a matted print I ask the buyer if they would like me to sign the outer mat. If they want me to, I do so in pencil in the corner just below the right edge of the beveled opening. Regarding the tape, I don't typically like to dry mount my prints to a board. I like to be able to remove the image from a mat if necessary. You are correct that no tape would last decades. But I don't leave my prints permanently matted. I exhibit them in the mats, after which I remove them from the mats and place them in print boxes. If someone buys a matted print I tell them that the matting/tape should be assessed and replaced as necessary. I don't think any print should be matted in the original matting material for decades.
On a piece of matting 32 x 10 can you cut a series of small cutouts for 3-1/2" by 5" ?
Hello,
I have a frame 16x20 and the photo I want to frame is 9x9. I calculate it and it shows 3.5 height and 5.5 width. I have the 301 S and it only 4inches on the cutter. How can I get the 5.5? Im a doing it wrong. Please help.
Thanks.
how do you keep the 2 metal guide rails perfectly parallel ?
The mat cutter is designed to do that automatically.
does it work well if you paint the mat to go with your artwork?
How much
Slow video but well discribed.
The 301-s that Logan sells today will never last 20 years. Unfortunately they have gone to a very cheap base made of particle board that swells and breaks down after cutting a few mats.
That is sad to hear. Glad I bought mine so long ago. It has lasted me 20 years and I foresee it lasting indefinitely. I was lucky enough to find another one years ago at Goodwill for $10. So I have a backup if ever necessary.
Not to criticize gratuitously, but it seems all the people making these videos have never heard of dry mounting.
Photographs, generally speaking are not irreplaceable (they can be reprinted) so they benefit from being displayed using a PERMANENT, perfectly flat mounting.
Using tape on one edge, or t-mounts etc will always allow the photograph to bubble up or balloon out, and the uneveness in the surface is clearly visible.
The photographic intent is best observed when the image is held perfectly flat, and dry-mounting (with a press) is the way this is achieved.
What's your customer going to say when they buy a framed print, only to have the print fall out of the window in six months' time, or medical tape ooze to start running down its surface?
The beveled mat allows an air space to exist netween the print surface and the glass, avoiding sticking from condensation, but only the hot-press dry mount will guarantee the print will permanently remain where you put it, and remain perfectly flat.
And just one more thing - white gloves are the way to be sure your print is not going to start showing fingerprints tomorrow, of what you had for dinner yesterday.
No point in buying "acid free" papers if you're going to run your fingers all over everything.
I have never seen anyone tape the front of the image before.
But it's not archives
informative video, but I do have a couple gripes. If you're doing a video that's for instructional purposes, I think a black mat would have been easier for the viewer to see. Also, if you're drawing your lines on the back, why keep them so light that they're difficult to see? Just a couple of gripes. Otherwise this was a nice refresher as it's been years since I cut a mat
Good video but far too slow,
I bought one...I'm pretty sure it's constructed backwards. Gonna build my own...thank God I'm a woodworker