Hello Granat1, I would like to thank you for coming up with this clever idea. I had searched all over the web for a non-destructive and non-disassembling way to make use of the Kinect v2 on the new Xbox One S console but could not find anything, until seeing your video. I have just implemented this mod over the weekend and it worked like a charm. I have made use of exactly the same parts you have, which I was fortunate to remove from a non-working KDlinks media player (it had all the connectors shown on your video). Also, had relied on the links that you provided, for the pinout diagrams.
I'm so happy that you followed my tutorial ^^ (and that you found it useful in the first place) But I'm even happier that you succeeded! ;D Sorry for late reply
Great Joob. I don't have the Kinect but I want to buy it. My only concern was about the very expensive adapter. With your DIY tutorial, first I need to try the connector after that I would think to buy the Kinect one :D . Thanks a lot!
I don't have a schematic of a cable with its wires. I've only measured the cable from the USB B plug to the xbox proprietary plug to figure out the adapter connections. Quite frankly I'm working right now with someone that happens to have a similar goal as you BUT I haven't personally tested our results. If you want I could share what we came up with but as I said, It's untested.
hello , already follow all instruction , but when plug in usb and 12v power , the win 11 show malfunction and can't recognize , and see the device manager keeping flash , do some thing miss i need to check ? thanks in advice
If everything was done correctly it should appear in Windows and install drivers automatically. Make sure you don't have any shorts, especially on the 12V line. Remember that all ground connections need to be common. If both of these are already done correctly, maybe your 12V power supply is not strong enough? The one I used was 2.5A
I have new version in progress You can make this one or wait for the updated version. It'll be a box, not a cable so it might be something you'll like more. It'll be more compact but it'll require 3D printing.
@@stonez56 It'll be, yeah. It'll be connected basically the same as this one but in the small box. Also there'll be slightly different components used since I don't want that cable hanging from it.
@@stonez56 Do you want a new upgraded schematic for that? I just finished it yesterday and it has usb socket and plug wiring instead of the cable. It's made in the style of the current schematic and all the wire colors and numbers match this one as well
Hi, I've never cut the cable but if the pin you're referring to is the one in my schematic then it's left disconnected. It's probably some kind of debugging pin.
clever but i dont understand the stuff to solder, i do kind need this solution because the last time i had a kinect i did the solder to the main board and it got lose and broke the whole thing
Hi, I'll admit, I should already publish a video with updated schematic and design but I'm too lazy… I mean I don't have enough time to finish it … ;P If the schematic and sources I shared in the video description aren't enough let me know exactly what you don't understand and I'll try to help you out :)
@@RyderUwU Take a look at this. drive.google.com/file/d/1DN_11wjx-2qC8Y4nPxOIsVW644vqegG-/view I made it for my second version bit it's not yet released. Maybe you'll find it easier to read. It's color coded.
Hi, i was wondering if i could ( by following the schematics in description) use one usb 3.0 type a to c cable slip it and cut off the end of the original kinect cable and wire the 3.0 cable to the original cable and either solder the power adapter to the inside of kinect or through the cord, would this work
If you want to cut your kinect cable then sure, this will work, schematics are basically the same and since you want to cut the cable anyway then you could solder the power to the cable keeping your kinect intact. EDIT: But keep in mind, I do not know what is the color scheme for the original cable, you'll need to find it on your own.
I'm thinking about updating the video by making it a little adapter box, not a cable like it is now, it will be tougher and it will be a bit more tidy. Not that it doesn't work because it does, in fact I'm still using the exact same build that is in the video, but I want to make it a bit more compact. Basically nitpicking ;P
@@JustCryen thank you for replying so quickly, the color scheme in the cable seems to be the same as the color schemes in the description, i would really appreciate if you made that update video, and if possible linking it in this thread so i can easily find it for the future
@@bigmacreejr Sadly I don't have much time now, I'll try to do it asap but it'll take some prototyping so I can't say when I'll be able to upload it. I'll try not to forget and link it here.
Hi, I completely missed your comment, sorry about that. It was a cheap usb A 3.0 to usb B 3.0 (so basically the printer cable BUT with usb 3.0) To be honest we just care about that usb A 3.0 port so it doesn't matter what's on the other side ;P
Gratki, za pomysł. Jak dla mnie to trochę dużo skubania. Osobiście znalazłem prostrzą metodę. A dokładnie zakup kabla USB 3.0 do drukarki no i rozbieranie kinekta aby móc przylótować 2 kabelki.
Dzięki ^^ Też znam tą metodę, prawda jest taka że dopóki nie wymyśliłem tej mojej metody to ta o której mówisz była chyba jedyna. Powiem tak, niektórzy może wolą ułatwić sobie robotę i zwyczajnie rozebrać Kinecta ale mi się nie podobało to, że: 1. niszczysz Kinecta (naklejki spod spodu) + ewentualne uszkodzenia jak ktoś nieumiejętnie rozbiera sprzęt 2. tracisz gwarancję U mnie estetyka jest bardzo ważna i wolałem wymyślić nową metodę niż zastosować tą powszechnie znaną która mi tą estetykę narusza xP Jest jeszcze metoda z ucięciem kabla od Kinecta i przerobieniem samej końcówki ale dochodzi trzeci minus: przestaje być kompatybilny z xBoxem (nie mam xBoxa ale to też było dla mnie ważne żeby ktoś inny był w stanie używać go i z pc i z konsolą)
Wiesz, nie neguje Twojej metody bo uważam że jest również bardzo dobra. Po prostu jak na moje zdolności jest troszkę bardziej wymagająca ;) Podkreślam, jak na moje zdolności....Dla innych może to będzie również przyjemne.
Wiem, w żaden sposób cię nie atakuję! Jeśli tak zabrzmiało to przepraszam... ;-; Tylko mówię co mnie skłoniło do stworzenia własnej metody ;P Jeśli tobie nie przeszkadzają minusy które wymieniłem to rób inną metodą, mnie nic do tego ;D Powodzenia z twoim buildem, bądź ostrożny ba nawet najprostszą metodą można coś zepsuć / zewrzeć etc.
Greetings Granat1! I want to thank you for this clever non intrusive idea! I managed to do the mod where you solder directly to the pcb of the Kinect, however, I was not keen of it so I restored it to the normal and I'm trying to do your mod instead. I have a question respecting your diagram. In the schematic you connect the "uninsulated copper wire" to the 11th pin, however the only uninsulated copper wire that I found were two actually, inside the other shielded pairs for the sstx (purple and orange) as well as for the ssrx (blue and yellow). I imagine to pair this copper wires together and solder them to the 11th pin. Am I correct? Thanks for your amazing work!
Hi, sorry for my late reply. You are probably correct. If I'm not mistaken they are just ground connections for data lanes, it's weird that you have 2 of them but I suspect that they are connected together on the other end of the cable anyway. If you want to be sure, you could grab a multimeter and make a continuity check between them.
@@JustCryen hahah don't worry, I actually looked up for some datasheets for USB 3.0 cables and they are indeed ground for data lanes so no problem on connecting then together. Currently I'm soldering the little Frankenstein and looks promising! Great diagram btw, just had some issues with the connectors themselves as the ones I got were a little bit different (shorter, thicker, etc) Happy holidays! I will post on Instagram if everything goes well and put your link on the description :D
I've also made another working prototype of this adapter. It's an adapter brick, not a cable. You might find this second diagram useful. drive.google.com/file/d/1DN_11wjx-2qC8Y4nPxOIsVW644vqegG-/view?usp=sharing Just a quick note, on the left side you have parts needed for the kinnect connector + dc jack and on the right side you can see male USB plug from top and the bottom and a female USB socket. If you'd want to build a brick style adapter you only need to choose one (male or female) connector from the right side. It's there just for choice.
@@leonardocastaneda904 Actually my first diagram is quite bad but thanks for the kind words. But it gets the job done, I'll need to finish the second one. Also I might need to think about an updated video about it.
@@JustCryen Actually the first diagram was really nice! It's just matter of visualizating the final result, sometimes we demand everything easy and chopped off but we actually need to think and what you did I think is great! The second schematic actually looks good too! I was thinking of something similar with a 3D printed case. Probably after I finish I'll try to design it, but for now I just only need it to work haha!
Hello sir Please a cant see where to put the adapter two terminal and we put two usb parts and conect usb 3 cable to one of them the other usb part will be left without connections
Hi If I understand correctly 1. usb 2.0 parts are glued together back to back. (2:13) 2. The cable I cut in a half is used only on its USB 3.0 A side, The USB 3.0 B side is unused. (3.21) In other words, you can cut right near the USB B connector. If this is not what you've asked please repeat your questions in other words.
Hello Granat1, thanks for sharing out this ! I will definitely try it. Do you have any idea if we can use only D+ / D- pair for data transfer (in USB 2.0 compatibility mode) ?
If I understand correctly, you're asking if we can basically use USB 2.0 instead of 3.0. Unfortunately we can't. You need the extra data lines since Kinnect is really resource and bandwidth hungry.
Actually I only used links that are already in the description. (openkinect link is for the kinnect) The cable has the same pinout as connector, of course you just need to look at it if it was already plugged in :) I know it could be difficult to understand since it's the very first video about it on the internet.. so since I know from the current links how this pinout should look like when flipped if you still need better pinout I can make one myself and post it under the video. I don't want to send you pinout that I didn't used in the video because it could be wrong so I'd rather make one
Yeah I see what you posted under the video. In the "Pinouts" section, the first link is the pinout of a standard usb 3.0 type-b powered socket. And the second link is the pinout of the socket on xbox one. I have found these pages prior to finding your video. The pinout of the socket on xbox one is more helpful, but I am really in doubt of its correctness. According to this page, there are 4 pins that are used as GND. This does not make sense. What's more, there are 12 pins on the other end of the cable(the end that is similar to a standard usb 3.0 type-b powered but with one more pin), so there should be only 2 pins that have the same definition. So maybe your own version would be more accurate and helpful. Thanks!
Ok, I'll make it shortly but I want to clear out your confusion with the 4 GND pins, yes it's true. If you'll cut the usb A 3.0 cable you will see there are 3 cables outside of the shield, these cables are ground and all are connected together. The 4'th ground is for power supply ground. I was also worried about it but... I guess more connection the better, right?
I hope it will be enough drive.google.com/open?id=1-MqfL15ebvBsC-lFlePLoEF2rzVnD3G3 One more thing, make sure your power supply and dc jack both have ground in the same place (it should be a shield of dc jack which is a black cable) then +12V will be the pin inside a jack which is a red cable. Long time ago I had some electronic with flipped power supply cables.. yea make sure that it is correct.
U mnie nie zadziałało, próbowałem na różne sposoby z GND do tego fragmentu wtyczki górnej USB3.0, najpierw do pinu środkowego podłączyłem ogólny SHIELD, jak nie zadziałało zamiast ogólnego SHIELD przelutowałem w ten 11pin na schemacie skręcone SHIELD'y z RX-ów i TX-ów (w tych ekranach też były w każdej parze RX i TX własne SHIELD'y). Uruchamianie zacząłem od dolutowania do przerobionych kostek gniazda USB3.0 oraz gniazda DC 12V i podłączenia do komputera oryginalnym kablem USB3.0 A/A za pośrednictwem tegoż gniazda. Włączyłem zasilanie, wpiąłem do komputera i nie wykryło żadnego urządzenia. Postanowiłem pominąć pośredniczące gniazdo i wlutowałem bezpośrednio 50cm kabelek z wtyczką USB3.0 jak na filmie (żeby wyeliminować ewentualne spadki napięcia), ale efekt był identyczny, także nie wykryło urządzenia. Czy na pewno na schemacie jest wszystko w porządku? Na konsoli XBOX ONE, KINECT działa bez zarzutu.
Ciężko mi teraz prześledzić i określić co mogłoby u Ciebie być źle zrobione, Na schemacie wszystko jest dobrze, robiłem go zaraz po zrealizowania projektu oraz uzyskałem pozytywny odzew od kilku osób które podjęło się projektu. Ostatnio nawet sam wracałem do tego schematu bo zamierzam zrobić wersję która jest bardziej kostką niż przewodem (czyli we własnej obudowie) aczkolwiek brakło mi czasu na dokończenie tego nowego projektu. Polecam sprawdzić gdzie jest minus na DC jack'u i ewentualnie czy zewnętrzny zasilacz ma dobre specyfikacje (i czy w ogóle działa, można sprawdzić miernikiem). Zaznaczę że mój przewód miewa problemy jak podłączę do niego przedłużkę usb o długości 2 metry, aczkolwiek działa dobrze na metrowej. Sama kwestja Windowsa też może być problemem, pamiętam że zdawało mi się że coś się zepsuło bo notorycznie kinect się rozłączał a okazało się że po aktualizacji Windows nie dał sobie wystarczających uprawnień do korzystania z Knecta...
Faktycznie działa, nie wiem dlaczego, ale u mnie nie działa na portach USB3.1 gen2 do których wpinałem KINECT'a bo miałem je najłatwiej dostępne. Ku mojemu zdziwieniu, po przepięciu do portu USB3.1 gen1 wszystko zaczęło działać. Nie wiem czy taki wybredny jest, że nie działa na portach gen2? dysk zewnętrzny podpięty do tego portu działa bezproblemowo, a KINECT już nie. Dziękuję za odpowiedź i pozdrawiam. Ewentualnie czy u Pana też coś takiego ma miejsce?
Hello Granat1, I would like to thank you for coming up with this clever idea. I had searched all over the web for a non-destructive and non-disassembling way to make use of the Kinect v2 on the new Xbox One S console but could not find anything, until seeing your video. I have just implemented this mod over the weekend and it worked like a charm. I have made use of exactly the same parts you have, which I was fortunate to remove from a non-working KDlinks media player (it had all the connectors shown on your video). Also, had relied on the links that you provided, for the pinout diagrams.
I'm so happy that you followed my tutorial ^^
(and that you found it useful in the first place)
But I'm even happier that you succeeded! ;D
Sorry for late reply
Great Joob. I don't have the Kinect but I want to buy it. My only concern was about the very expensive adapter. With your DIY tutorial, first I need to try the connector after that I would think to buy the Kinect one :D . Thanks a lot!
Great work!!!! I followed all the instructions and now my brand new kinect it's working on my xbox one!!!!
That's great! ;D
I'm glad my work was useful not just for me ;)
I'm also assuming it is xbox one S/X OR you're using alternately pc and normal xbox one ;P
can u share a schematic of the cable wiring I'm trying to do something similar by splicing the cables together
I don't have a schematic of a cable with its wires.
I've only measured the cable from the USB B plug to the xbox proprietary plug to figure out the adapter connections.
Quite frankly I'm working right now with someone that happens to have a similar goal as you BUT I haven't personally tested our results.
If you want I could share what we came up with but as I said, It's untested.
hello , already follow all instruction , but when plug in usb and 12v power , the win 11 show malfunction and can't recognize , and see the device manager keeping flash , do some thing miss i need to check ? thanks in advice
If everything was done correctly it should appear in Windows and install drivers automatically.
Make sure you don't have any shorts, especially on the 12V line.
Remember that all ground connections need to be common.
If both of these are already done correctly, maybe your 12V power supply is not strong enough?
The one I used was 2.5A
Does it work now?
Great video! I am trying to make one for myself! Thanks!
I have new version in progress
You can make this one or wait for the updated version.
It'll be a box, not a cable so it might be something you'll like more.
It'll be more compact but it'll require 3D printing.
@@JustCryen Thanks! Is that 3D printed box?
@@stonez56
It'll be, yeah.
It'll be connected basically the same as this one but in the small box.
Also there'll be slightly different components used since I don't want that cable hanging from it.
@@JustCryen Great, I already sanded the USB connectors and I was able to fit them into the Kinect plug. I will do the wiring next.
@@stonez56
Do you want a new upgraded schematic for that?
I just finished it yesterday and it has usb socket and plug wiring instead of the cable.
It's made in the style of the current schematic and all the wire colors and numbers match this one as well
Excellent job, I like your video, I have a question: the cable black with a line white inside ( Pin 8 ), its connected ?
Hi, I've never cut the cable but if the pin you're referring to is the one in my schematic then it's left disconnected.
It's probably some kind of debugging pin.
where did you buy '2x USB type A 2.0 Female connector' with 8 pins? cant find it anywhere.. only see 4 pins
On single USB type A 2.0 you have 4 pins, you should buy it two times and glue it together (back sides)
Like on the video
clever but i dont understand the stuff to solder, i do kind need this solution because the last time i had a kinect i did the solder to the main board and it got lose and broke the whole thing
Hi, I'll admit, I should already publish a video with updated schematic and design but I'm too lazy… I mean I don't have enough time to finish it … ;P
If the schematic and sources I shared in the video description aren't enough let me know exactly what you don't understand and I'll try to help you out :)
@@JustCryen the solder schematics confuse me a bit, for the rest it's a great vid
@@RyderUwU
Take a look at this.
drive.google.com/file/d/1DN_11wjx-2qC8Y4nPxOIsVW644vqegG-/view
I made it for my second version bit it's not yet released.
Maybe you'll find it easier to read.
It's color coded.
Hi, i was wondering if i could ( by following the schematics in description) use one usb 3.0 type a to c cable slip it and cut off the end of the original kinect cable and wire the 3.0 cable to the original cable and either solder the power adapter to the inside of kinect or through the cord, would this work
If you want to cut your kinect cable then sure, this will work, schematics are basically the same and since you want to cut the cable anyway then you could solder the power to the cable keeping your kinect intact.
EDIT:
But keep in mind, I do not know what is the color scheme for the original cable, you'll need to find it on your own.
I'm thinking about updating the video by making it a little adapter box, not a cable like it is now, it will be tougher and it will be a bit more tidy.
Not that it doesn't work because it does, in fact I'm still using the exact same build that is in the video, but I want to make it a bit more compact.
Basically nitpicking ;P
@@JustCryen thank you for replying so quickly, the color scheme in the cable seems to be the same as the color schemes in the description, i would really appreciate if you made that update video, and if possible linking it in this thread so i can easily find it for the future
@@bigmacreejr
Sadly I don't have much time now, I'll try to do it asap but it'll take some prototyping so I can't say when I'll be able to upload it.
I'll try not to forget and link it here.
@@JustCryenDid you give it a try?
Hi Granat1! I'm following your tutorial and I was left with a question: what is the USB 3.0 cable used? Is it for external HD or printer?
Thanks!
Hi, I completely missed your comment, sorry about that.
It was a cheap usb A 3.0 to usb B 3.0 (so basically the printer cable BUT with usb 3.0)
To be honest we just care about that usb A 3.0 port so it doesn't matter what's on the other side ;P
Gratki, za pomysł. Jak dla mnie to trochę dużo skubania. Osobiście znalazłem prostrzą metodę. A dokładnie zakup kabla USB 3.0 do drukarki no i rozbieranie kinekta aby móc przylótować 2 kabelki.
Dzięki ^^
Też znam tą metodę, prawda jest taka że dopóki nie wymyśliłem tej mojej metody to ta o której mówisz była chyba jedyna.
Powiem tak, niektórzy może wolą ułatwić sobie robotę i zwyczajnie rozebrać Kinecta ale mi się nie podobało to, że:
1. niszczysz Kinecta (naklejki spod spodu) + ewentualne uszkodzenia jak ktoś nieumiejętnie rozbiera sprzęt
2. tracisz gwarancję
U mnie estetyka jest bardzo ważna i wolałem wymyślić nową metodę niż zastosować tą powszechnie znaną która mi tą estetykę narusza xP
Jest jeszcze metoda z ucięciem kabla od Kinecta i przerobieniem samej końcówki ale dochodzi trzeci minus:
przestaje być kompatybilny z xBoxem
(nie mam xBoxa ale to też było dla mnie ważne żeby ktoś inny był w stanie używać go i z pc i z konsolą)
Wiesz, nie neguje Twojej metody bo uważam że jest również bardzo dobra. Po prostu jak na moje zdolności jest troszkę bardziej wymagająca ;) Podkreślam, jak na moje zdolności....Dla innych może to będzie również przyjemne.
Wiem, w żaden sposób cię nie atakuję!
Jeśli tak zabrzmiało to przepraszam... ;-;
Tylko mówię co mnie skłoniło do stworzenia własnej metody ;P
Jeśli tobie nie przeszkadzają minusy które wymieniłem to rób inną metodą, mnie nic do tego ;D
Powodzenia z twoim buildem, bądź ostrożny ba nawet najprostszą metodą można coś zepsuć / zewrzeć etc.
Greetings Granat1! I want to thank you for this clever non intrusive idea! I managed to do the mod where you solder directly to the pcb of the Kinect, however, I was not keen of it so I restored it to the normal and I'm trying to do your mod instead.
I have a question respecting your diagram. In the schematic you connect the "uninsulated copper wire" to the 11th pin, however the only uninsulated copper wire that I found were two actually, inside the other shielded pairs for the sstx (purple and orange) as well as for the ssrx (blue and yellow). I imagine to pair this copper wires together and solder them to the 11th pin. Am I correct? Thanks for your amazing work!
Hi, sorry for my late reply.
You are probably correct.
If I'm not mistaken they are just ground connections for data lanes, it's weird that you have 2 of them but I suspect that they are connected together on the other end of the cable anyway.
If you want to be sure, you could grab a multimeter and make a continuity check between them.
@@JustCryen hahah don't worry, I actually looked up for some datasheets for USB 3.0 cables and they are indeed ground for data lanes so no problem on connecting then together. Currently I'm soldering the little Frankenstein and looks promising! Great diagram btw, just had some issues with the connectors themselves as the ones I got were a little bit different (shorter, thicker, etc)
Happy holidays! I will post on Instagram if everything goes well and put your link on the description :D
I've also made another working prototype of this adapter.
It's an adapter brick, not a cable.
You might find this second diagram useful.
drive.google.com/file/d/1DN_11wjx-2qC8Y4nPxOIsVW644vqegG-/view?usp=sharing
Just a quick note, on the left side you have parts needed for the kinnect connector + dc jack and on the right side you can see male USB plug from top and the bottom and a female USB socket.
If you'd want to build a brick style adapter you only need to choose one (male or female) connector from the right side.
It's there just for choice.
@@leonardocastaneda904
Actually my first diagram is quite bad but thanks for the kind words.
But it gets the job done, I'll need to finish the second one.
Also I might need to think about an updated video about it.
@@JustCryen Actually the first diagram was really nice! It's just matter of visualizating the final result, sometimes we demand everything easy and chopped off but we actually need to think and what you did I think is great! The second schematic actually looks good too! I was thinking of something similar with a 3D printed case. Probably after I finish I'll try to design it, but for now I just only need it to work haha!
Hello sir
Please a cant see where to put the adapter two terminal and we put two usb parts and conect usb 3 cable to one of them the other usb part will be left without connections
Hi
If I understand correctly
1. usb 2.0 parts are glued together back to back. (2:13)
2. The cable I cut in a half is used only on its USB 3.0 A side, The USB 3.0 B side is unused.
(3.21)
In other words, you can cut right near the USB B connector.
If this is not what you've asked please repeat your questions in other words.
Hello Granat1, thanks for sharing out this ! I will definitely try it. Do you have any idea if we can use only D+ / D- pair for data transfer (in USB 2.0 compatibility mode) ?
If I understand correctly, you're asking if we can basically use USB 2.0 instead of 3.0.
Unfortunately we can't.
You need the extra data lines since Kinnect is really resource and bandwidth hungry.
Very inspiring video. Can you post the pinout of the original cable? That would be a lot more helpful.
Actually I only used links that are already in the description.
(openkinect link is for the kinnect)
The cable has the same pinout as connector, of course you just need to look at it if it was already plugged in :)
I know it could be difficult to understand since it's the very first video about it on the internet..
so since I know from the current links how this pinout should look like when flipped if you still need better pinout I can make one myself and post it under the video.
I don't want to send you pinout that I didn't used in the video because it could be wrong so I'd rather make one
Yeah I see what you posted under the video. In the "Pinouts" section, the first link is the pinout of a standard usb 3.0 type-b powered socket. And the second link is the pinout of the socket on xbox one. I have found these pages prior to finding your video. The pinout of the socket on xbox one is more helpful, but I am really in doubt of its correctness. According to this page, there are 4 pins that are used as GND. This does not make sense. What's more, there are 12 pins on the other end of the cable(the end that is similar to a standard usb 3.0 type-b powered but with one more pin), so there should be only 2 pins that have the same definition. So maybe your own version would be more accurate and helpful. Thanks!
Ok, I'll make it shortly but I want to clear out your confusion with the 4 GND pins, yes it's true.
If you'll cut the usb A 3.0 cable you will see there are 3 cables outside of the shield, these cables are ground and all are connected together.
The 4'th ground is for power supply ground.
I was also worried about it but... I guess more connection the better, right?
Oh wait, sorry, i was saying about Sata cable (my other project)
USB A 3.0 have just 2 grounds
I'll just provide you with the schematics later
I hope it will be enough
drive.google.com/open?id=1-MqfL15ebvBsC-lFlePLoEF2rzVnD3G3
One more thing, make sure your power supply and dc jack both have ground in the same place (it should be a shield of dc jack which is a black cable) then +12V will be the pin inside a jack which is a red cable.
Long time ago I had some electronic with flipped power supply cables.. yea make sure that it is correct.
U mnie nie zadziałało, próbowałem na różne sposoby z GND do tego fragmentu wtyczki górnej USB3.0, najpierw do pinu środkowego podłączyłem ogólny SHIELD, jak nie zadziałało zamiast ogólnego SHIELD przelutowałem w ten 11pin na schemacie skręcone SHIELD'y z RX-ów i TX-ów (w tych ekranach też były w każdej parze RX i TX własne SHIELD'y). Uruchamianie zacząłem od dolutowania do przerobionych kostek gniazda USB3.0 oraz gniazda DC 12V i podłączenia do komputera oryginalnym kablem USB3.0 A/A za pośrednictwem tegoż gniazda. Włączyłem zasilanie, wpiąłem do komputera i nie wykryło żadnego urządzenia. Postanowiłem pominąć pośredniczące gniazdo i wlutowałem bezpośrednio 50cm kabelek z wtyczką USB3.0 jak na filmie (żeby wyeliminować ewentualne spadki napięcia), ale efekt był identyczny, także nie wykryło urządzenia. Czy na pewno na schemacie jest wszystko w porządku? Na konsoli XBOX ONE, KINECT działa bez zarzutu.
Ciężko mi teraz prześledzić i określić co mogłoby u Ciebie być źle zrobione,
Na schemacie wszystko jest dobrze, robiłem go zaraz po zrealizowania projektu oraz uzyskałem pozytywny odzew od kilku osób które podjęło się projektu.
Ostatnio nawet sam wracałem do tego schematu bo zamierzam zrobić wersję która jest bardziej kostką niż przewodem (czyli we własnej obudowie) aczkolwiek brakło mi czasu na dokończenie tego nowego projektu.
Polecam sprawdzić gdzie jest minus na DC jack'u i ewentualnie czy zewnętrzny zasilacz ma dobre specyfikacje (i czy w ogóle działa, można sprawdzić miernikiem).
Zaznaczę że mój przewód miewa problemy jak podłączę do niego przedłużkę usb o długości 2 metry, aczkolwiek działa dobrze na metrowej.
Sama kwestja Windowsa też może być problemem, pamiętam że zdawało mi się że coś się zepsuło bo notorycznie kinect się rozłączał a okazało się że po aktualizacji Windows nie dał sobie wystarczających uprawnień do korzystania z Knecta...
Faktycznie działa, nie wiem dlaczego, ale u mnie nie działa na portach USB3.1 gen2 do których wpinałem KINECT'a bo miałem je najłatwiej dostępne. Ku mojemu zdziwieniu, po przepięciu do portu USB3.1 gen1 wszystko zaczęło działać. Nie wiem czy taki wybredny jest, że nie działa na portach gen2? dysk zewnętrzny podpięty do tego portu działa bezproblemowo, a KINECT już nie. Dziękuję za odpowiedź i pozdrawiam. Ewentualnie czy u Pana też coś takiego ma miejsce?
Brawo stary za pomysł ^ziomeczek z wakacji ;)
Pamiętam :D
Dzięki wielkie, trochę się nad tym napracowałem ;)
A działa to na Xbox one s?
Działa :)