You should be able to get by with a diaphragm pump. You can get a chinesium Ingersoll Rand knockoff double diaphragm 1 inch inlet 1 inch outlet, 35 GPM, air operated pump for about $300 right now.
Build a PVC double acting pump and mount to the bottom of your barrel. Some plywood pulleys and a belt should allow you to convert a cheap drill to back and forth motion to drive it.Tee a recirc valve ( flue damper) to the top of the barrel. start the pump with this open and close it to pump aircrete. You don't need fancy check valves, build homebrew flap valves and a damper for the recirc line. A little heat and you can flatten out cut PVC pipe to build any parts you need. Thanks for all your hard work!
love this place! i thought a peristaltic pump would be best because the vibration of a diaphragm pump would be the enemy to foam bubbles? just my thought. luv yahs!!!
I was contemplating fastening the foam mate to the side of the barrel feeding into the barrel. When the batch is ready clamp the lid on and turn on the air tot the foam mate and the pressure would push the aircrete out a gate valve and hose used fo waste tanks.
Keep up the good work! How does it compare with basic aircrete (without sawdust) for insulation and settling? Thank you for all that you do aircrete, rocketstove, etc,.....!!
Good to see the first test batch of your latest aircrete recipe mixed and poured into a wall of your forever home. 👍 Have you figured out why the aircrete settled so dense and how to get a lower density? 🤔
It's an inventor's mistake that I would have made also. The aircrete bubbles just can't hold that much vertical column above 4 inches or so before the weight crushes the air out. They can be poured flat and tilted up, but the slump weight column height wins. That may be why some are turning to shredded packing foam like Aircrete Harry instead of soap foam for structure builds. Aircrete performs very well as an insulator for the rocket stove with thin walls and ratio of thickness between the sides of the refractory core and the outer sheet metal core holding it versus the height of the pour may be sufficient to keep the air entrained. Which means the rocket stove might cure aircrete a little better setting horizontally that vertically. The ratio of height of the pour to the thickness may just be thin enough in the rocket stove to keep the column from squishing out the soap bubble air with vertical pours. I'm no expert. DO TRY THIS AT HOME! Lol.
Darwin, I've been missing alot of your videos lately but caught this one, great! I must have missed the video or place you posted trying out the mix with sawdust and your findings etc., can you direct me please.
Any idea what the weight per sf of the aircrete is in the 6" cavity once cured? Also did the wood absorb any of the evaporating water and deform it? I have a stick built house that is gutted and thinking of trying it.
I'm just learning about aircrete so I have a question. Doesn't pouring this mix into a form, in a way, defeat the purpose of aircrete? This a a foam and compressed air product that if poured beyond a certain depth causes the air and foam to collapse which is why the end result of your pour seemed deficient to your expectations and in the end uses substantially more product than required. It would seem much more efficient to build a reusable jig out of Melamine and pour these flat then attach to your frame, additionally pouring in place seems extremely labor intensive compared to pouring flat and then attaching. I also noticed on your shed build that you kept the metal forms on after pouring which seemed unnecessary and costly. From what I have learned this product should be structurally sound enough on its own. Again, I am just learning and I am looking for some direction so please do not take this as a jab but rather a legit inquiry. Also, one more question, this concerning the 2x8 panels you poured for your shed. Why not pour 4x8 as most sheets of construction board is 4x8 standard. I appreciate you. Val
! Why did you create such a huge form, for just a 12-15" pour? Why not just use a 24" form and work your way up the wall in stages? This way, you could move right on to the next section, left or right, while the first one is setting up. It would not only have been easier to pour the first 3-4 vertical stages, (5-6'); but, also, you would not need to use such a large sheet of plastic, either. Just a thought. Great job, though.
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You should be able to get by with a diaphragm pump. You can get a chinesium Ingersoll Rand knockoff double diaphragm 1 inch inlet 1 inch outlet, 35 GPM, air operated pump for about $300 right now.
Build a PVC double acting pump and mount to the bottom of your barrel. Some plywood pulleys and a belt should allow you to convert a cheap drill to back and forth motion to drive it.Tee a recirc valve ( flue damper) to the top of the barrel. start the pump with this open and close it to pump aircrete. You don't need fancy check valves, build homebrew flap valves and a damper for the recirc line. A little heat and you can flatten out cut PVC pipe to build any parts you need. Thanks for all your hard work!
Darwin, you are awesome! I love your aircrete projects & the R&D that you do for the projects & ideas you create. Keep creating, man!👍
Hey Darwin, that looks great!!! 🙏❤🇺🇸⛵👣🤗
Love it!
Liked Subscribed and Shared from Minnesnowtah 😊
love this place! i thought a peristaltic pump would be best because the vibration of a diaphragm pump would be the enemy to foam bubbles? just my thought. luv yahs!!!
6:34 good thing you have your safety glasses on 😀
Put a lid on barrel with outlet and hose on bottom of barrel then add air fitting on top hook up air compressor pump out
I was contemplating fastening the foam mate to the side of the barrel feeding into the barrel. When the batch is ready clamp the lid on and turn on the air tot the foam mate and the pressure would push the aircrete out a gate valve and hose used fo waste tanks.
Keep up the good work! How does it compare with basic aircrete (without sawdust) for insulation and settling? Thank you for all that you do aircrete, rocketstove, etc,.....!!
Really miss your videos. Would love to know how the winter was for you and how building is coming along.
Good to see the first test batch of your latest aircrete recipe mixed and poured into a wall of your forever home. 👍
Have you figured out why the aircrete settled so dense and how to get a lower density? 🤔
It's an inventor's mistake that I would have made also. The aircrete bubbles just can't hold that much vertical column above 4 inches or so before the weight crushes the air out. They can be poured flat and tilted up, but the slump weight column height wins. That may be why some are turning to shredded packing foam like Aircrete Harry instead of soap foam for structure builds. Aircrete performs very well as an insulator for the rocket stove with thin walls and ratio of thickness between the sides of the refractory core and the outer sheet metal core holding it versus the height of the pour may be sufficient to keep the air entrained. Which means the rocket stove might cure aircrete a little better setting horizontally that vertically. The ratio of height of the pour to the thickness may just be thin enough in the rocket stove to keep the column from squishing out the soap bubble air with vertical pours. I'm no expert. DO TRY THIS AT HOME! Lol.
Darwin, I've been missing alot of your videos lately but caught this one, great! I must have missed the video or place you posted trying out the mix with sawdust and your findings etc., can you direct me please.
love the vids, question , how do you connect the panels together, it looks like only sprayfoam ?
Any idea what the weight per sf of the aircrete is in the 6" cavity once cured? Also did the wood absorb any of the evaporating water and deform it? I have a stick built house that is gutted and thinking of trying it.
Get the pump built quickly
Why are you not out there helping folks rebuild in Florida
I'm just learning about aircrete so I have a question. Doesn't pouring this mix into a form, in a way, defeat the purpose of aircrete? This a a foam and compressed air product that if poured beyond a certain depth causes the air and foam to collapse which is why the end result of your pour seemed deficient to your expectations and in the end uses substantially more product than required. It would seem much more efficient to build a reusable jig out of Melamine and pour these flat then attach to your frame, additionally pouring in place seems extremely labor intensive compared to pouring flat and then attaching. I also noticed on your shed build that you kept the metal forms on after pouring which seemed unnecessary and costly. From what I have learned this product should be structurally sound enough on its own. Again, I am just learning and I am looking for some direction so please do not take this as a jab but rather a legit inquiry. Also, one more question, this concerning the 2x8 panels you poured for your shed. Why not pour 4x8 as most sheets of construction board is 4x8 standard. I appreciate you. Val
Saw dust is Organic
Aircrete has both air & moisture
Won't that cause the saw dust to rot away, releasing heat & gas and crack the aircrete?
!
Why did you create such a huge form, for just a 12-15" pour?
Why not just use a 24" form and work your way up the wall in stages?
This way, you could move right on to the next section, left or right, while the first one is setting up.
It would not only have been easier to pour the first 3-4 vertical stages, (5-6'); but, also, you would not need to use such a large sheet of plastic, either.
Just a thought.
Great job, though.