Great video, thanks.No matter what you use to make a mark, the mark will have a thickness and will always be on the outside of the material that you need to cut away. I always aim to cut the line away, i.e. so that the edge of my blade is in the same place as the set square.Depending on the material and what you are cutting with, you learn by practicing - get some scrap material and try different approaches. Nothing beats experience and its the best teacher you can have.
I do a lot of metal working and find that a single bevel blade marking knife works great. The flat face of the knife touches the straight edge and by holding the blade vertically, you don't drift. If necessary, first paint the area with bluing and then cut through it for a high contrast line. The flat face of the knife also does not harm the straight edge.
Thanks again, Kevin. Nice video. I learned to use scribes when I began working sheet metal in my HVAC dealership/metal shop. No better way to mark metal than a nice sharp scribe. I've taught many employees how to build sheet metal components for HVAC work; for our company installations and for other companies that didn't have a sheet metal shop. On thin sheet metal, scribes are also good for measuring points along a line for bending; by tapping the scribe with with the sheet metal hammer to mark the point at the precise positions on a line in the workpiece. The resulting little pips in the sheet metal made it easy to make precise cuts or bends in the stomp shear or brake. Sure wish I still owned all that equipment. I've gotten away from woodworking in my home shop, too. Messy! Dust gets everywhere, even with a dust removal machine. OH, and if you cut a piece of wood too short, you can't simply weld it back long to try again. (chuckle).
When you said "Speaking of joints..." the first time, I was expecting the response you gave the second time haha. A video on something as simple as marking metal and you kept it entertaining and informative as always.
If you want to make a non disposable scribe then you should use a high carbon steel for the tip and heat treat it to make it a bit harder than most knives. You can acquire a nice size piece of high carbon steel from a file, specifically the tang of the file. The tang of the file can be ground to a point and should be able to be hardened, slowing the wear of the tip. If you prefer to buy a scribe, it is probably worthwhile to get one with a tungsten carbide tip since it will last a very long time.
I had a commercially made scribe for years but with a lot of use and re-sharpening it became too soft on the end where I ground back past the hardened end. I used to use a needle gun de-scaler when I was at B.H.P. steelworks. I found that the needles out if them were very hard, about 3mm in diameter about 6 1/2" long and had a countersunk end on the back-end, (so you don't stab yourself with it) sharpen them up to a point and they stay sharp for a very long time. It is now 17 years since I left B.H.P. and I still have the one I made there.
Good advice. Good video. I have 22 gauge aluminum and I need to make 2.02 x 2.02” squares with a hole in the center. This needs to fit into a rotary switch. So it has to fit well. The corners are rounded but I can do that with a file. What would you use to cut this metal? I’m worried that an angle grinder will wander all over. Thanks, Paul
I would use something like this, ,www.homedepot.com/p/12-in-Sheet-Metal-Plate-Shear-Solid-Construction-Mounting-Type-Metal-Shear-High-Precision-Manual-Hand-Plate-Shear-FM-0JFIEF/327052881?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-2023-71700000108003326-58700008320620748-92700075648488851&gclid=10ec6461305919128c03011cf560d2b9&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=10ec6461305919128c03011cf560d2b9
best thing i have found for scribes are Motorbike spokes ,,, there hard as hell and you can have them long ,, i have them all over the workshop ,,if you want to get tricky use the threaded end to screw onto a flash brass handle ,, or what ever handle you like ,, i use brass so i can spot them laying around !
Kevin hi, great videos thanks. Help please! I have an old rifle with a wide V rearsight, so wide it's not easy to 'centre' the foresight when I try and align the two. I'd like to experiment making smaller/narrower V rearsights I could then glue/solder onto the existing rearsight so that I get a much 'tighter' sight picture. I guess I could use small bits of copper (black them up later) but how would I get a good clear symmetrical V shape? I have a Dremel sort of tool, that's my limit so far. Many thanks,
With a jigsaw or nibbler I use a marker and remove the mark to the short side.With a disc i mark with a marker, then scribe inside the marker mark and leave the scribed line when I cut. With a saw I measure from the blade to the end of the piece. No mark required.With a torch of any kind it's inside of tip to end with a clamped guide or leave soapstone intact when freehanding. If all this fails the 12" disc sander is sitting there.So is the 2 x 72 They run constantly ;-)
great video kevin, now when it comes to cutting, have you ever used a 8 inch milwaukee metal saw, to cut 1/4 inch steel plate, i don't have a plasma, and bought the saw instead. .
+totenkopfelite I've had it for about 2 months and have cut about 40 ft (guesstimating). I haven't pushed it to the limits that you see on other videos, but I feel like I could cut 3/4" right now with it if I needed to without changing the blade anytime soon. I'll probably get a lot of use with the endurance blade it came with, but this is the only saw I've used like it. Agreed. I'd love to see Kevin make a video with it as I trust his judgement for a regular guy like me.
Retractable carbide point pocket scriber changed my life. The point is hard enough to mark mill scale and you can click the end and not stab yourself when you put it in your pocket. Also Drywall screws make good scribes for the DIY'er.
I use carbide toothed saw blades in a table saw perfect clean ,bur free distortion free cuts in steel plate. I slow the rpm down to about 3500 for a 7 inch blade. cuts 8 inches of 1 inch plate in about a minute . The blades work well in a worm drive portable. Try this, it will change your life if you are a fabricator.
The only way to ensure an easy to see and follow cutting line on flat sheet steel, angle iron or box section steel is to effectively paint the surface of the material with a thin coat of Dykem Engineers Blue or Red and when dry (in minutes) use a pointed steel scribe to mark out your work piece ready for cutting into the part you require.
Also, always keep in mind the kerf width of your cutting tool be it a bandsaw, cut off wheel, plasma cutter etc. otherwise no matter how thick or thin your line is, your cuts will never be dimensionally accurate!
I live in Phx and just recently took up welding (been woodworking for many years), do you allow visitation to complete strangers to visit your shop?:p If not, I understand and completely respect your privacy. Also,thx for all the fun and informative vids you broadcast.
that sounds great Kevin, i really enjoy your videos, especially the part, where I'm guessing your wife is asking you question, if that was my wife, she woukd be screaming at me, for buying another toy, for the shop...lol
Staedtler permanent Lumocolor pen: alcohol ink drys instantly and comes in a .5mm tip. Like a mechanical pencil only in permanent ink. Used it on my glass art and just a great marking device. Oh, I was a custom furniture maker before art screwed up my life in a beautiful way. Weld-on!
+Jim Goodwin I was just about to make about the same post! I like to find the longest one possible and I'll grind the threads off of it (without over-heating it). If you really want to make it nice, put a wooden handle on it!
I bought a carbide tip scribe from eBay. Carbide is the only way to go. Your scribe needs to be harder than your metal is otherwise it will dull after the first line. Using a sharpie cut on the inside of the line. I have made cuts very accurate doing this. You are right though. The finer the line the closer the cut. Keep the videos coming. I like them.
8 лет назад
Hey Kevin! How to cut straight with an angle grinder?
LOL. I got a realy nice scribe thats like a ballpoint, but if it's in my clean jacket I'll use a razor. Just picked up some pencils that seems to be like creons, but they didn't seem to leave a good mark like the good silver pencils. Think I'll just have to go and buy another sharpie, got a crate of magic markers who'll leave a quarter inch mark :/
@@KevincaronSculpture I meant what you said to all of us about making our own tool to draw a line. Most of RUclipsrs have a link to buy tools etc, love your videos. Cheers from Argentina
dont ever make a scribe out of soft steel like from a bolt or a welding rod it's a waste of time just buy one they're cheap and dont need sharpening every time you need to use it
![Yeat & Quavo - 5BRAZY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4XxnTAwyxus/mqdefault.jpg)
While I have heard you mention similar tips in other videos.. I never get tired of hearing them again. Thanks!
Great video, thanks.No matter what you use to make a mark, the mark will have a thickness and will always be on the outside of the material that you need to cut away. I always aim to cut the line away, i.e. so that the edge of my blade is in the same place as the set square.Depending on the material and what you are cutting with, you learn by practicing - get some scrap material and try different approaches. Nothing beats experience and its the best teacher you can have.
Same here. The line thickness does not matter. The edge of the line nearest the rule/square/etc... is the line.
I do a lot of metal working and find that a single bevel blade marking knife works great. The flat face of the knife touches the straight edge and by holding the blade vertically, you don't drift. If necessary, first paint the area with bluing and then cut through it for a high contrast line. The flat face of the knife also does not harm the straight edge.
Thanks again, Kevin. Nice video.
I learned to use scribes when I began working sheet metal in my HVAC dealership/metal shop. No better way to mark metal than a nice sharp scribe. I've taught many employees how to build sheet metal components for HVAC work; for our company installations and for other companies that didn't have a sheet metal shop. On thin sheet metal, scribes are also good for measuring points along a line for bending; by tapping the scribe with with the sheet metal hammer to mark the point at the precise positions on a line in the workpiece. The resulting little pips in the sheet metal made it easy to make precise cuts or bends in the stomp shear or brake. Sure wish I still owned all that equipment.
I've gotten away from woodworking in my home shop, too. Messy! Dust gets everywhere, even with a dust removal machine. OH, and if you cut a piece of wood too short, you can't simply weld it back long to try again. (chuckle).
I have been using a ground tungsten for a scribe.
When you said "Speaking of joints..." the first time, I was expecting the response you gave the second time haha. A video on something as simple as marking metal and you kept it entertaining and informative as always.
Just found your channel and it's simultaneously really useful and really inspiring for our own work. You've definitely earned that joint!
Thanks, graduated to a bong now!!
Good use for broken drills.
Good videos.
If you want to make a non disposable scribe then you should use a high carbon steel for the tip and heat treat it to make it a bit harder than most knives. You can acquire a nice size piece of high carbon steel from a file, specifically the tang of the file. The tang of the file can be ground to a point and should be able to be hardened, slowing the wear of the tip. If you prefer to buy a scribe, it is probably worthwhile to get one with a tungsten carbide tip since it will last a very long time.
I had a commercially made scribe for years but with a lot of use and re-sharpening it became too soft on the end where I ground back past the hardened end. I used to use a needle gun de-scaler when I was at B.H.P. steelworks. I found that the needles out if them were very hard, about 3mm in diameter about 6 1/2" long and had a countersunk end on the back-end, (so you don't stab yourself with it) sharpen them up to a point and they stay sharp for a very long time. It is now 17 years since I left B.H.P. and I still have the one I made there.
Why don't you just re-harden the steel?
Good advice. Good video. I have 22 gauge aluminum and I need to make 2.02 x 2.02” squares with a hole in the center. This needs to fit into a rotary switch. So it has to fit well. The corners are rounded but I can do that with a file.
What would you use to cut this metal? I’m worried that an angle grinder will wander all over.
Thanks,
Paul
I would use something like this, ,www.homedepot.com/p/12-in-Sheet-Metal-Plate-Shear-Solid-Construction-Mounting-Type-Metal-Shear-High-Precision-Manual-Hand-Plate-Shear-FM-0JFIEF/327052881?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-2023-71700000108003326-58700008320620748-92700075648488851&gclid=10ec6461305919128c03011cf560d2b9&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=10ec6461305919128c03011cf560d2b9
kevin i use a tungsten pencil,replacement tips or you can sharpen it
best thing i have found for scribes are Motorbike spokes ,,, there hard as hell and you can have them long ,, i have them all over the workshop ,,if you want to get tricky use the threaded end to screw onto a flash brass handle ,, or what ever handle you like ,, i use brass so i can spot them laying around !
Great idea!
Have to look for some of them.
I will be buying an Everlast plasma cutter soon. Any advice on what I can use for a straightedge?
check this out. I use it a lot!
pipefitter.com/store/magnetic-torch-guide.html
Kevin hi, great videos thanks. Help please! I have an old rifle with a wide V rearsight, so wide it's not easy to 'centre' the foresight when I try and align the two. I'd like to experiment making smaller/narrower V rearsights I could then glue/solder onto the existing rearsight so that I get a much 'tighter' sight picture. I guess I could use small bits of copper (black them up later) but how would I get a good clear symmetrical V shape? I have a Dremel sort of tool, that's my limit so far. Many thanks,
Get a pair of hand shears. Should be easy to snip a light weight copper to figure out how you want to make your sight.
Thank you Kevin and your good lady wife for the video really helpful thank you and stay safe Chris Lord ...
With a jigsaw or nibbler I use a marker and remove the mark to the short side.With a disc i mark with a marker, then scribe inside the marker mark and leave the scribed line when I cut.
With a saw I measure from the blade to the end of the piece. No mark required.With a torch of any kind it's inside of tip to end with a clamped guide or leave soapstone intact when freehanding.
If all this fails the 12" disc sander is sitting there.So is the 2 x 72 They run constantly ;-)
Great tips. I'm expecting a powerplasma cutter soon and will take your advice!
great video kevin, now when it comes to cutting, have you ever used a 8 inch milwaukee metal saw, to cut 1/4 inch steel plate, i don't have a plasma, and bought the saw instead. .
+totenkopfelite88 Never used one of those.. But I use a 4 inch one and get a lot of cuts with it....
+Kevin Caron, Artist thanks for the response, maybe you could touch on using such a tool in one of your videos, one day..
I love my 8" Milwaukee metal cutting saw. Just wish it had a bevel on it. Whenever I want a mill- like finish, I use it instead of my plasma cutter.
How many cuts have you gotten on a single blade, would you say, they last awhile, I plan on making a bumper, using 1/4 inch steel
+totenkopfelite I've had it for about 2 months and have cut about 40 ft (guesstimating). I haven't pushed it to the limits that you see on other videos, but I feel like I could cut 3/4" right now with it if I needed to without changing the blade anytime soon. I'll probably get a lot of use with the endurance blade it came with, but this is the only saw I've used like it. Agreed. I'd love to see Kevin make a video with it as I trust his judgement for a regular guy like me.
Retractable carbide point pocket scriber changed my life. The point is hard enough to mark mill scale and you can click the end and not stab yourself when you put it in your pocket. Also Drywall screws make good scribes for the DIY'er.
AND you enjoy the wonders of the joint. fantastic.
If you get the chance please click on an ad or two. Helps to pay for the videos!
I use carbide toothed saw blades in a table saw perfect clean ,bur free distortion free cuts in steel plate. I slow the rpm down to about 3500 for a 7 inch blade. cuts 8 inches of 1 inch plate in about a minute . The blades work well in a worm drive portable.
Try this, it will change your life if you are a fabricator.
The only way to ensure an easy to see and follow cutting line on flat sheet steel, angle iron or box section steel is to effectively paint the surface of the material with a thin coat of Dykem Engineers Blue or Red and when dry (in minutes) use a pointed steel scribe to mark out your work piece ready for cutting into the part you require.
Very true! But there are also ways to cheat and speed things up as well. Thanks for watching and posting!
Has anybody told you how cool you are today? Love the videos! Where do we see some of your newer art pieces?
Thank you! You can see all my work oon my website.
www.kevincaron.com
Click on "in the works" and see what i am working on at the moment.
"so speaking of joints..." awesome dude :)
Enjoy life!
Also, always keep in mind the kerf width of your cutting tool be it a bandsaw, cut off wheel, plasma cutter etc. otherwise no matter how thick or thin your line is, your cuts will never be dimensionally accurate!
Great point! Still trying to learn that lesson !
I live in Phx and just recently took up welding (been woodworking for many years), do you allow visitation to complete strangers to visit your shop?:p If not, I understand and completely respect your privacy. Also,thx for all the fun and informative vids you broadcast.
Come to my website and sign up for my newsletter. I have an open studio twice a year.
www.kevincaron.com
A sharpened 3/32 Tig tungsten works very well as a scribe !
that sounds great Kevin, i really enjoy your videos, especially the part, where I'm guessing your wife is asking you question, if that was my wife, she woukd be screaming at me, for buying another toy, for the shop...lol
we use a scatch awl! or even take a welding rod ,clean off the breakable coating and sharpen it down, also acts a pointing tool!!
Staedtler permanent Lumocolor pen: alcohol ink drys instantly and comes in a .5mm tip. Like a mechanical pencil only in permanent ink. Used it on my glass art and just a great marking device. Oh, I was a custom furniture maker before art screwed up my life in a beautiful way. Weld-on!
Will check them out, thanks for the heads up..
thank you Guru.
3" deck screws make very good and long lasting scribes. No sharpening necessary.
+Jim Goodwin I was just about to make about the same post! I like to find the longest one possible and I'll grind the threads off of it (without over-heating it). If you really want to make it nice, put a wooden handle on it!
Thanks Kevin ...Great Videos Don M.
Grind an old allen key down to a point. It is hard and will hold a point.
Anton's Latex as long as you cool it as you grind and don’t let it get hot.
I bought a carbide tip scribe from eBay. Carbide is the only way to go. Your scribe needs to be harder than your metal is otherwise it will dull after the first line. Using a sharpie cut on the inside of the line. I have made cuts very accurate doing this. You are right though. The finer the line the closer the cut. Keep the videos coming. I like them.
Hey Kevin! How to cut straight with an angle grinder?
+Ronalds Šulcs (Fotogrāfs) You don't.
Still wanna know?
thanks again!
You are welcome! Don't forget to give me a link please!
LOL. I got a realy nice scribe thats like a ballpoint, but if it's in my clean jacket I'll use a razor. Just picked up some pencils that seems to be like creons, but they didn't seem to leave a good mark like the good silver pencils. Think I'll just have to go and buy another sharpie, got a crate of magic markers who'll leave a quarter inch mark :/
I hear ya, still playing with different types of pens and markers.
Thanks eductional video Amazing
You're a metal worker remember??? Hahahah awesome
Nope, I am a sculptor. I just use a welder in my job.
@@KevincaronSculpture I meant what you said to all of us about making our own tool to draw a line. Most of RUclipsrs have a link to buy tools etc, love your videos. Cheers from Argentina
Just cut off that hook and grind another point. A Tig electrode makes a good scribe 1/8" or 3/32" ,your choice💡
what gauge material did you cut
+totenkopfelite That was 1/8 inch steel...
I am looking at 3/16 to 1/4, I think it's gonna be great for my projects, I got a great deal, 239.00 off Northern Tool
Hahaha no Mary Jane on the job Kev lol
I saw what you did there to.
Sub scribe Hehehe you made a another funny 😂..
the ending lol!
you can use dye to aid in scribing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marking_blue
Ok not teach me how to cut straight with my cutting disk lol
Sounds like a video to me!!
wow
Before i had a scribe, i used a carpenter's nail.
Start with one edge you think is straight then use that edge to scribe the next all the way around using a square
I use a scribe then a 0.4mm permanent marker.
I like the scribe also. Just have too many scratches in the metal to find the right one!
Kevin Caron, Artist that's why I use a markers well. Sounds can keep track
If a guy is using a Sharpie for 2 lines on opposite ends then a guy could end up compounding the inaccuracy if he isn't being careful.
Very true and I have done this. Easy to happen, hard habit to break.
Don't smoke too much :)
Achète un trusquin beubeul
Thank you for watching and posting.
dont ever make a scribe out of soft steel like from a bolt or a welding rod it's a waste of time just buy one they're cheap and dont need sharpening every time you need to use it
Or you can just heat treat the point and the hardened steel will last a long time.