Great video. Landscape companies serving large developments in Florida need to see it. They plant everything too deep and hundreds of live oaks are dying. I am trying to help them take these corrective measures. Thank you so much.
Very helpful video, thank you! I recently planted a Japanese maple and now realise it came from the garden centre planted too deep and I need to expose the root flare.
I wish more people knew about this. It’s such a pervasive problem I see allll over the place. It’s quite disturbing once you realize that all these tees are being suffocated to death. You’ve gotta look for that root collar before planting.
Great video! I'm always explaining to people to do this! One question though, in nature trees are planting themselves my seed. Do trees naturally grow so that their root flare grows above grade in nature? Or is it natural selection and lots of trees die because they don't know where to establish their own root flare? Thanks!
Thank you for the helpful video. On many videos the experts always encourage making a ring-shaped mound of mulch around the trunk, with no mulch at the trunk. Well, for me the mulch always seems to migrate to the trunk perhaps due to gravity, wind, animal activity or whatever. So I keep ending up with the same "tree planted too deep" problems. Also, won't the mulch eventually decay into new soil that raises the grade and effectively lowers the depth of the tree? Both of these problems seem inevitable but never get mentioned.
Tree maintenance is an ongoing practice in tree care. It’s a living thing in a dynamic environment. Addition of a mulch ring helps to maintain soil temperatures and moisture levels, among other things. It’s correct that mulch will deteriorate over time or move towards or away from the base of the tree depending on different factors. To maintain a proper grade around your tree requires occasional assistance. If you notice mulch building up near the base of the tree you can pull it back by hand or with a rake. If you’re mulching every year, this is usually the normal practice anyways, spreading out older mulch and laying a new layer on top.
Is there a preferred time of the year to raise the tree? I am in zone 7, north east and wondering if I should wait for either till fall/late winter or early spring. Thanks
If by raising you are implying digging up the tree and replanting it, this could cause undue stress on the tree. If you can stick to the regrading process described in the video, it can be done any time the soil is workable.
Great video. Quick question - what do you do if you find wayward roots growing up above grade? Is it ok to cut those roots after exposing the root flare? Or would you suggest giving the tree sometime to readjust to having its root flare exposed (and time to establish more downward roots), before cutting all the wayward roots (aka roots growing upwards for air)?
Most of the exposed roots that present after removing excess mulch and soil are adventitious roots and can be pruned away safely. Don’t prune any roots over ½” unless they are stem girdling or circling. Otherwise, just cover with a light mulch and compost mix and be sure to water in times of drought.
Hi, I have the same problem - the tree planted few inches deeper than it should have been. I have pulled the soil back from the root flare, but my concern is that the bark might start to rot because of the rain water that now collects in the low spot, which is around the exposed root flare. Is this a valid concern? By pulling soil back we creating the low spot around the trunk....
When the root flare is exposed, this is only the beginning, as explained in the video. The depth of the area near the root flare will indicate the depth of the soil over the root zone. Mulch and soil will need to be excavated at least out to the dripline of the tree, depending on size of the tree. As the video shows, I excavated out 2-3 ft. from the root flare. This will help with drainage and more even distribution of water.
I have a tree planted like 10 years ago still same size grows leaves on it but never gets taller or new branches why? Should i add fertilizer like blood meal or anything?
I dont' believe that is the solution. Most likely it is a soil issue or other abiotic issue. I would recommend a soil test before adding any type of fertilizer.
The hard fact is great majority of today's trees arrive already too deep from the nursery. So is the nursery workers planting whips too deep not contractors transplanting trees along parkways. Meaning installing top surface of root ball level with surrounding grade is no longer correct way of planting. Thus one must perform a trunk flare excavation to bring stem back to its original birth grade. Just pulling mulch back away from trunk is not correct mulching. Professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert did in video. One must first completely rake away most of old mulch before putting down new "flat" layer. As high ring mulching is just as bad as volcano mulching which results in suffocating Roots underground forced to grow up into mulch.
[[CONCERTMANchicago : The hard fact is great majority of today's trees arrive already too deep from the nursery. So is the nursery workers planting whips too deep not contractors transplanting trees along parkways. Meaning installing top surface of root ball level with surrounding grade is no longer correct way of planting. Thus one must perform a trunk flare excavation to bring stem back to its original birth grade.]] Good points, but this video does not contradict nor dispute those facts. You've only stated the obvious. This video intends to provide a brief explanation of the problem of trees that have been planted too deep. It offers instructions on how this problem could be mitigated. It then demonstrates how the old mulch can be redistributed around the tree to create a larger, more beneficial, ring once the planting grade has been corrected. Clearly, this tree had been incorrectly planted at grade level using the root ball's top surface. The expert pointed out that the tree was about 4 inches too deep. Fortunately, it appears that the tree was still slightly planted above grade level despite the rootball top surface not having been properly regraded down to the main order root flare. If the tree had been planted much deeper or too high above grade, then the need to excavate and replant the tree to raise or lower it to proper grade level would have been featured. [[CONCERTMANchicago : Just pulling mulch back away from trunk is not correct mulching. Professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert did in video. One must first completely rake away most of old mulch before putting down new "flat" layer.] ] In this video, the "expert" explained how this tree's unfortunate condition of being planted too deep can be improved by the methods he demonstrated. Although mulch is commonly regarded for its curb appeal, it actually serves an important function when applied at a moderated depth (of no more than 2 - 3 inches non-compressed). Your statement that 'professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert' sounds like your admitting that few 'professionals' have taken a step back in scientific reasoning and now totally ignore the benefits that mulch biodegradation provides in the first place. Non-synthetic mulch not only helps to insulate the roots from temperature extremes and retain moisture longer during periods of drought, but it also biodegrades over time, which slowly enriches the soil. That last part is key. If you completely remove the old mulch that would remove it from this natural recycling process, which plant debris naturally does on the forest floor. And so each year, if you remove the seasoned mulch in favor of replacing it with new mulch, then you have effectively removed a source that provides a simple nutrient benefit from the landscape. The 'professionals' who discard seasoned mulch from the landscape appear to be more concerned with aesthetic mulching than aesthetic mulching with biological benefits. Before applying any new mulch, one must first turn the old mulch to determine if new mulch is even necessary rather than just dumping new mulch upon mulch year after year. Turning old mulch not only aerates the beds and breaks up fungal clumps but also enables the discovery and mitigation of girdling root under development around trees and over roots. These potential girdlers can be pruned before they ever become a problem. Most property owners desire a "fresh" layer of new mulch for aesthetic reasons. In such cases, most of the old mulch may have to be removed to prevent a pile-up that would increase compaction and risk suffocating roots, as well as encouraging adventitious roots into developing into potential stem & root girdlers. But all this information is not in this video because that is not the purpose of this video. What we see is what we get. This expert's technique does not contradict any of the industry's accepted best management practices and provides direction that most layman can understand and follow. [[CONCERTMANchicago : As high ring mulching is just as bad as volcano mulching which results in suffocating Roots underground forced to grow up into mulch.] ] When properly applied and not in a high ring, there is no risk of suffocating tree roots. Although the expert did not use the terminology "volcanic mulching" directly (which he does discuss in another one of his videos) this video did not promote high ring mulching. I can appreciate that many of your statements would make for a nice documentary on the subject of planting & mulching, but they came across as criticism. This video by design is meant to be a brief and accurate "how-to" that almost anyone can follow and does not promote any harmful practices to trees.
Good observations. Yes, the whips are installed somewhat deeper due to the lack of root system to hold them upright and stable. This is why we can expect excessive soil on the top of the ball due to the nature of tree production in field nurseries. Typically, container grown trees don't have this issue, but rather their own set of problems with stem girdling roots. Also, agreed if excessive mulch is an issue it is best to remove and replace, but that is not a planting depth issue. If the tree has both problems, then soil and mulch should be excavated to obtain proper grade and installation height.
Great video. Landscape companies serving large developments in Florida need to see it. They plant everything too deep and hundreds of live oaks are dying. I am trying to help them take these corrective measures. Thank you so much.
Video was simple and helpful. Perfect!
Please share the make/model of the mini shrub rake. It looks like a quality heavy duty tool.
Lindsey says he has had the shrub rake for 25 years. Sorry we can't help you find the particular make/model.
Very helpful video, thank you! I recently planted a Japanese maple and now realise it came from the garden centre planted too deep and I need to expose the root flare.
I wish more people knew about this. It’s such a pervasive problem I see allll over the place. It’s quite disturbing once you realize that all these tees are being suffocated to death. You’ve gotta look for that root collar before planting.
Great video! I'm always explaining to people to do this! One question though, in nature trees are planting themselves my seed. Do trees naturally grow so that their root flare grows above grade in nature? Or is it natural selection and lots of trees die because they don't know where to establish their own root flare? Thanks!
Thank you for the helpful video. On many videos the experts always encourage making a ring-shaped mound of mulch around the trunk, with no mulch at the trunk. Well, for me the mulch always seems to migrate to the trunk perhaps due to gravity, wind, animal activity or whatever. So I keep ending up with the same "tree planted too deep" problems. Also, won't the mulch eventually decay into new soil that raises the grade and effectively lowers the depth of the tree? Both of these problems seem inevitable but never get mentioned.
Tree maintenance is an ongoing practice in tree care. It’s a living thing in a dynamic environment. Addition of a mulch ring helps to maintain soil temperatures and moisture levels, among other things. It’s correct that mulch will deteriorate over time or move towards or away from the base of the tree depending on different factors. To maintain a proper grade around your tree requires occasional assistance. If you notice mulch building up near the base of the tree you can pull it back by hand or with a rake. If you’re mulching every year, this is usually the normal practice anyways, spreading out older mulch and laying a new layer on top.
Thanks for replying. Very good info. :)
Excellent. Very telling. Thanks
Great info!
Is there a preferred time of the year to raise the tree? I am in zone 7, north east and wondering if I should wait for either till fall/late winter or early spring. Thanks
If by raising you are implying digging up the tree and replanting it, this could cause undue stress on the tree. If you can stick to the regrading process described in the video, it can be done any time the soil is workable.
Great video. Quick question - what do you do if you find wayward roots growing up above grade? Is it ok to cut those roots after exposing the root flare? Or would you suggest giving the tree sometime to readjust to having its root flare exposed (and time to establish more downward roots), before cutting all the wayward roots (aka roots growing upwards for air)?
Most of the exposed roots that present after removing excess mulch and soil are adventitious roots and can be pruned away safely. Don’t prune any roots over ½” unless they are stem girdling or circling. Otherwise, just cover with a light mulch and compost mix and be sure to water in times of drought.
Hi,
I have the same problem - the tree planted few inches deeper than it should have been. I have pulled the soil back from the root flare, but my concern is that the bark might start to rot because of the rain water that now collects in the low spot, which is around the exposed root flare. Is this a valid concern? By pulling soil back we creating the low spot around the trunk....
When the root flare is exposed, this is only the beginning, as explained in the video. The depth of the area near the root flare will indicate the depth of the soil over the root zone. Mulch and soil will need to be excavated at least out to the dripline of the tree, depending on size of the tree. As the video shows, I excavated out 2-3 ft. from the root flare. This will help with drainage and more even distribution of water.
Doesn’t this create a bowl effect though and potentially cause too much water to stand in the center of the “bowl”?
Was that the flare or the grafting ball?
I have a tree planted like 10 years ago still same size grows leaves on it but never gets taller or new branches why? Should i add fertilizer like blood meal or anything?
I dont' believe that is the solution. Most likely it is a soil issue or other abiotic issue. I would recommend a soil test before adding any type of fertilizer.
The hard fact is great majority of today's trees arrive already too deep from the nursery. So is the nursery workers planting whips too deep not contractors transplanting trees along parkways. Meaning installing top surface of root ball level with surrounding grade is no longer correct way of planting.
Thus one must perform a trunk flare excavation to bring stem back to its original birth grade.
Just pulling mulch back away from trunk is not correct mulching. Professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert did in video. One must first completely rake away most of old mulch before putting down new "flat" layer.
As high ring mulching is just as bad as volcano mulching which results in suffocating Roots underground forced to grow up into mulch.
[[CONCERTMANchicago
: The hard fact is great majority of today's trees arrive already too deep from the nursery. So is the nursery workers planting whips too deep not contractors transplanting trees along parkways. Meaning installing top surface of root ball level with surrounding grade is no longer correct way of planting.
Thus one must perform a trunk flare excavation to bring stem back to its original birth grade.]]
Good points, but this video does not contradict nor dispute those facts. You've only stated the obvious. This video intends to provide a brief explanation of the problem of trees that have been planted too deep. It offers instructions on how this problem could be mitigated. It then demonstrates how the old mulch can be redistributed around the tree to create a larger, more beneficial, ring once the planting grade has been corrected. Clearly, this tree had been incorrectly planted at grade level using the root ball's top surface. The expert pointed out that the tree was about 4 inches too deep. Fortunately, it appears that the tree was still slightly planted above grade level despite the rootball top surface not having been properly regraded down to the main order root flare. If the tree had been planted much deeper or too high above grade, then the need to excavate and replant the tree to raise or lower it to proper grade level would have been featured.
[[CONCERTMANchicago
: Just pulling mulch back away from trunk is not correct mulching. Professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert did in video. One must first completely rake away most of old mulch before putting down new "flat" layer.]
]
In this video, the "expert" explained how this tree's unfortunate condition of being planted too deep can be improved by the methods he demonstrated.
Although mulch is commonly regarded for its curb appeal, it actually serves an important function when applied at a moderated depth (of no more than 2 - 3 inches non-compressed).
Your statement that 'professionals no longer apply mulch as this expert' sounds like your admitting that few 'professionals' have taken a step back in scientific reasoning and now totally ignore the benefits that mulch biodegradation provides in the first place.
Non-synthetic mulch not only helps to insulate the roots from temperature extremes and retain moisture longer during periods of drought, but it also biodegrades over time, which slowly enriches the soil. That last part is key. If you completely remove the old mulch that would remove it from this natural recycling process, which plant debris naturally does on the forest floor. And so each year, if you remove the seasoned mulch in favor of replacing it with new mulch, then you have effectively removed a source that provides a simple nutrient benefit from the landscape. The 'professionals' who discard seasoned mulch from the landscape appear to be more concerned with aesthetic mulching than aesthetic mulching with biological benefits.
Before applying any new mulch, one must first turn the old mulch to determine if new mulch is even necessary rather than just dumping new mulch upon mulch year after year. Turning old mulch not only aerates the beds and breaks up fungal clumps but also enables the discovery and mitigation of girdling root under development around trees and over roots. These potential girdlers can be pruned before they ever become a problem.
Most property owners desire a "fresh" layer of new mulch for aesthetic reasons. In such cases, most of the old mulch may have to be removed to prevent a pile-up that would increase compaction and risk suffocating roots, as well as encouraging adventitious roots into developing into potential stem & root girdlers. But all this information is not in this video because that is not the purpose of this video. What we see is what we get. This expert's technique does not contradict any of the industry's accepted best management practices and provides direction that most layman can understand and follow.
[[CONCERTMANchicago
: As high ring mulching is just as bad as volcano mulching which results in suffocating Roots underground forced to grow up into mulch.]
]
When properly applied and not in a high ring, there is no risk of suffocating tree roots. Although the expert did not use the terminology "volcanic mulching" directly (which he does discuss in another one of his videos) this video did not promote high ring mulching. I can appreciate that many of your statements would make for a nice documentary on the subject of planting & mulching, but they came across as criticism. This video by design is meant to be a brief and accurate "how-to" that almost anyone can follow and does not promote any harmful practices to trees.
Good observations. Yes, the whips are installed somewhat deeper due to the lack of root system to hold them upright and stable. This is why we can expect excessive soil on the top of the ball due to the nature of tree production in field nurseries. Typically, container grown trees don't have this issue, but rather their own set of problems with stem girdling roots.
Also, agreed if excessive mulch is an issue it is best to remove and replace, but that is not a planting depth issue. If the tree has both problems, then soil and mulch should be excavated to obtain proper grade and installation height.