How to Sew a 1920's Bra {Historical Sewing Tutorial}
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This week, I bring you a 1920s tutorial for a simple bandeaux style bra. I’ve closely followed the original instructions (such that there are) for the first version, and then I’ve used this pattern to create a “modern” version. Both help immensely with getting that period-appropriate look under 1920s style dresses.
*A pdf version of the book I'm using can be bought here : tidd.ly/4f00f954
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For anyone looking to make a bigger size, the channel
Gwen's Shenanigans posted a tutorial adapting this bra to fit a bigger cup size: ruclips.net/video/N_Mf_F0TRG8/видео.html She added some different straps and included a couple extra darts, which helped with her fit.
Other Alterations (updated Nov 2020):
-One thing I've started doing differently to the jersey-version, is that I no longer include the elastic in the front. Instead, I leave a long tail from the serged seam, then thread the tail back through the middle of the seam line and pull to gather the front. I then tie the tail to the other tail (they should both be at the same end of the seam now), stitch with it using a darning needle a few times to secure, then thread both tails back through the middle to hide the ends. I find this gives a comfier and smoother fit to the front of the bra.
-Other possible alterations that were suggested down in the comments section (gathered here for your convenience):
- Using upholstery material for a more structured bra
- Adding twill tape underneath the gathers to reinforce them for strength
- Using pre-made adjustable bra straps, or encasing elastic in either ribbon or fabric, for a stretchy strap.
- Adding elastic along the lower band. This would have a similar effect to Gwen's darts, as it would lessen any gaping under the bra band.
There may have been a few I missed, so I suggest scrolling down if you are looking for inspiration. You ladies are a creative bunch :)
I have a huge difference in my ribcage and bust measurement. My under bust measurement is 28", apex bust measurement is 35". Making the bra into more of a longline shape (have it come down to the base of the ribs, not only 8") and adding darts to fit my narrower ribcage worked perfectly for me.
Yess! Thanks girl, I'm 'bout to get that book. For larger busts i suggest using a stiff fabric (exterior or upholstery even), and/or beauty tape-there are also tapes that can help lift and support. Not completely historically accurate, but will give that silhouette. 💋
Those are great suggestions!
That thread! What a bluenose! Bushwa to use for holding up a sheba's bubs! A bra has to be hotsy-totsy, we're no cancelled stamps here! (I'm trying out 20s slang, sorry)
For busty ladies; What I think was used in this era was a boned bra. There are examples of the boned bras (and also the type of bra shown in this video) in the book "Everyday fashions 1909-1920 As pictured in Sears catalogs" towards the end of the book when things are moving into the 20's and the 20's silhouette is already in place. There is a page devoted to early 20's bras called "brassieres", the different types of items are called brassieres, bust confiners (in the case of "stout women") and bust supporters.
@@TheLongHairedFlapper The permanent shape problems sound painful. The illustrations look like the boned bra gives you lift/support (but also that uniboob look). If these were actually flattening the breasts and pushing them downwards I can see that they would affect your natural breast shape over time. Illustrations tend to give an idealized look.
I wish we had photographs of women wearing these boned bras in the 20's. I haven't seen them yet.
Oops! I just accidentally deleted my reply to you. Darn it! Oh well, looks like you got to read it before I mis-clicked! (There really needs to be an undo button for deleting comments....)
@@TheLongHairedFlapper No problem. I wish there was an undo button as well :)
Sorry for the delay on this video. This is the first sewing tutorial I’ve ever done on my channel, and ooohh boy was it more of an editing challenge than I anticipated! I already had a lot of respect for people who make sewing videos on RUclips, but I have a whole newfound appreciation for the work that goes into their videos.
Hope this was worth the wait! Let me know if you are interested in some more sewing tutorials or if you’d rather I stick to cold creams ;)
I have been looking for an easy bra tutorial (without the Hindi, and endless measurements) forever. This is mainly for weekend gardening and such tasks. This was it. I'm off to sew now. Please have more of the same i.e. bras and panties, that is. Thank you so much!
Im a DD/F cup and Im trying this anyhow. Thank you for this tutorial. Could you ever make some 1920s style tap short/underwear? My skill level isn’t really at the point to understand a book of patterns like this yet but I can understand a video!
No guarantees but I will add it to my requested video list. I've been in the mood to try some more sewing tutorials lately so it might happen at some point :)
This video was forever ago but since nobody told you in the comments- the reason why your thread kept snapping its because (IMO) it looks loke a metallic thread and those require changing the tension Sometimes using a ballpoint needle works and practice because it's a far more delicate thread, it does not have the tensile strength that a cotton nylon or linen thread would have hence pop!
Cheers doll!
Can't tell you how thankful I am! I couldn't find a single explanatory tutorial, so I've been going off reference pictures and sewing intuition :)
Advice you didn't ask for; I think the first bra would be more durable if you sewed a narrow cotton twill tape to the back of the gathers in the front for stability, or rather gathered your fabric to the twill tape, you only need one line of stitching to fix the gathers to the twill tape. It's much easier to get even gathers this way as well. Gathers fixed only to thread tend to snap easily, especially when the thread is of dodgy quality.
Instead of singing the ends of the ribbon I think it would be best to fold and stitch the ends over before attaching (or "hem" them, is maybe a better choice of words).
This need not add a lot of bulk either. Depends on the thickness and stiffness of your ribbon.
You could also add strap adjusters to the shoulder bands. But this is not historically accurate.
You could also sew a horizontal ribbon to the bottom of the bra (only sewn to the bottom of the cups and around the back), that either ties in the back or in the front. That could add support (or rather the bra would stay in place better) and might give more support than the idea of an elastic.
I wasn't aware gathers were considered more fragile, as I've never had an issue with any breaking. I don't think there is a lot of pressure on the gathering stitches in this design, but your cotton twill suggestion is great for people who want to be extra sure or who are tougher on their seams.
I'm curious as to your suggestion of seaming rather than singing the ends of the ribbon. Any particular reason? I'm sure it would be more effective on natural fibers. My ribbon was definitely plastic though and forms a nice hard edge when singing. I just wondered if they was another reason for it.
For strap adjustment, a historically accurate alternative to the strap adjusters is elastic straps. I've seen 1920s tutorials for elastic, encased in ribbon, being used as straps. It would make them more fitted. Maybe I will have to do a tutorial for that one day!
@@TheLongHairedFlapper Usually when something is gathered it's gathered to other fabric. Like a skirt gathered to a bodice, or a sleeve cap gathered to an arms eye.
I've seen examples of items where there were gathers that were only fixed with thread (not gathered to other fabric), these were used as examples of things that tend to snap in fashion school.
A friend from school had a top with decorative gathers on her short sleeve, only fixed with thread. The were fine for a few days of wear, but then started to undo themselves. When almost none of the gathers were still in place she took the remaining stitches out and regathered it by stitching a piece of elastic on the inside.
I guess it depends on where it is placed, on what fabric and with what type of thread. I am guessing, if you're using this gathering for shaping the cups and your breasts actually fill the cups there's at least some strain on it. I'm not saying it's 100% going to break though.
Just that using a cotton twill tape sounds like a sturdier, easier and neater solution. You actually get to pin and evenly divide the gathers to something.
Seaming the ribbon just sounds like a sturdier option. I've seen where a ribbon was sewn onto something and tension was applied and the stitches started to work their way down the ribbon (splitting the fibers). Putting in a little hem could put a definite stop to that.
That encased elastic strap thing sounds good.
If using a non-stretch fabric, cutting it on the bias might help the comfort and fit :) Just an idea I had while watching
Not a bad idea, although having enough stretch might give an ahistoric fit. Like, there won't be enough compression. Sometimes the worse option comfort-wise is also the most accurate option lol. Bless our modern fabrics lbr.
A simple fix that I think might help with larger breasts, in addition to all the others that piped up, would be to draft in the straps, and keeping them very wide. That way the straps are strong enough and won't tear off since they're part of the garment like a tank top, and they would be thick enough to keep from digging in. And continuing the garment further down, like a longline bra, might be a good idea.
I might try this. A lot of the bras give me a rash because of the fabric content and elastic. I don't really want to order one because I never get one that fits and cotton bras aren't as forgiving as far as fit. I'm a little larger so I might try a couple of darts and or non roll elastic, maybe 1/2 or 3/4 inch. I'll have to cover the elastic in fabric so that should be OK. It would be nice to have a tutorial for putting a bra in a 1920s slip dress or any kind of sun dress, if there already isn't one. I don't know much about the 1920s but I'm pretty sure bra straps showing under cloths wasn't a thing.
I don't know that I've ever seen a "built in" bra in any slips from the era. A lot of the sleeveless dresses had wide enough shoulder seams so that any straps would be hidden underneath. The exception to that would be some of the sheer dresses, which would have had a visible slip underneath. You do occasionally also see strapless bandeaux bras (very similar to this design, just without straps). Another trick I've seen suggested was to make both the bra and slip with the same ribbon straps, so that one hides underneath the other (giving the appearance of only one strap). Of course I've seen quite a few examples of women just forgoing a bra all-together as well!
Adorable in this video. Oh how fun how to make a bra of the 1920s. Ad the undergarments do very much matter when you dress form those lovely older eras. ❤️ That had turned out rather lovely and seems easy enough!
Yeeees, thank you so much, I can't way to try it! I'm gonna go butcher an old t-shirt and report back for the large busted people out there.
Can't wait to hear how it goes!
How'd it go, friend?
Thank you so much for this video! I just completed this project and hand sewed the entire thing (the foot pedal for my sewing machine is in a completely different city lol)! This is my first historical sewing project, and I feel very accomplished. Much love.
Congrats on completing your first historical sewing project! :)
I am super late to this video, but maybe someone will take my idea and run with it. I think the first bra could be made much more simply by just hemming all around the rectangle first, then gathering up the two shorter ends of the rectangle to match each other in length and adding hooks and eyes to those gathered edges for a front closure. If you make it a little larger to begin with, you can add multiple eyes (in rows) to easily adjust the fit in case you grow a little. You could use little bows or flowers to cover any stitching on the side with the hooks for decoration. For people who need a little extra room, maybe cut your fabric on the bias to gain that bias stretch over the apex of your bust, but bind all edges instead of hemming using a straight grain binding or a ribbon that coordinates with your straps in order to add that support. I am currently working on a more complex "bra" type thing that I saw a picture of on a youtube video posted by Nicole Rudolph about regency corsets. I am eager to try making your 1920's bra out of linen for that moisture-wicking goodness. Thank you!
“This tutorial may not be for larger chested girls” *cries in FF cup*
Aw, sorry! Maybe next time I will be able to find a more function pattern :)
Please, its a shame for us larger girls.
There are other patterns out there. One (it may have been late 1920s/early 30s) demonstrated pieced cups and short pieces of elastic at the ends of the straps where they attached to the bra body, and short elastic pieces on either side of the hook and eye closure at the back. I liked that pattern because it was not a true bandeau and would allow for a larger cup size. The finished bra would also have a little give to it.
This was a great video. I loved watching you laugh. Seemed like you were having such fun!
In this book, on page 16 and a few pages onward, there's instructions on how to make a bra that looks like a fusion of a tank top and a corset, I think it might be a decent option for large-busted people: www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/B-SW003.htm . Also, foundations revealed is a good website for stuff like this, they mostly have stuff on corset-making but they branch out to other kinds of underwear as well.
Thanks for the reference! I hadn't come across that book before.
I really enjoyed this and definitely need one in the jersey fabric! Dunno if it would do much for my DDs, but it would be comfy! I also had to laugh at your thread regret! 😂 I know how you feel! I've hidden my sewing machine after my bobbin kept tangling and knotting and breaking and giving me heartache! Ugh! I've recently decided to bring it back out and try to make the dumb thing work. Haha I prefer sewing by hand, but sometimes you just wanna do things more quickly! Anywho, I'd love more sewing tutorials! I've kinda become obsessed with watching historical sewing lately. 😍
BTW, TOTALLY SCANDALISED! 😂
Ooo, I envy you your hand sewing! I like the idea of hand stitching but just never seem to have the patience for it.
FINALLY!!! I was oh so patient for this!!!! It's amazing. I'm going to try it! 😀😀 Thanks indeed, Miss Kate!!!!
I just like the idea of not paying $50+ for a bra 😅
Thanksfor sharing!
Yay! Worth every bit of the wait! So darn cute! I love the robe and matching head scarf too.
Love the sewing tutorial. Thank you!
I love this!
It's funny that things that were undergarments are commonly used as tops these days
Does anyone actually walk like that outside of instagram and gym? Here in northen europe we really dont
@@taritangeo4948 In Texas in the high summer it's not unusual to see it as casual out and about dress. Comfy clothes to sweat through basically cuz summer is brutalizing, 13 hrs a day for seven and a half months. It was 114 yesterday, I wear a cotton/ linen historically inspired wardrobe so despite my coverage I stay as cool as I can but most people will wear as little as personally sensible and modestly possible to stay cool.
My wardrobe is also a defense because sometimes there's a 30 to 50 degree difference between outside and going into a shop, going from sweltering to the polar opposite in a shop is uncomfortable for me. Most ppl love the blast of cold air upon entry but more than 15min and your freezing in a crop top and mini shorts lol!
Love the video! Been looking forward to it. 🙂
We like this kind of thing
Loved it, would also love to see it worn under garments ^^
If you want to see it worn underneath, I wore one of the jersey versions in my "How to Look Instantly Better in 1920's clothing" video :)
I find it is more to do with the tightness of the skin of the breasts, rather than the cup size. It's the same with the light cross over Regency support garment, compared with the boned or corded short stays. If one is naturally bouyant then light support is fine; if one is older then more support is required
Also it could be more for nipple coverage rather than support. With lighter fabrics and no coverage from corsets, it may just be a modesty thing rather than for support
Hey would this work for a larger bust and is it supportive. I have a uk 42F/E depending on the shop would this work. I really want to get into vintage clothes and recreate downtown abbey outfits. Are there any that would any links and help is wanted x
Whoops, I know this reply is super, super late but I must have missed the notification for your comment back when you posted it. Sorry about that! The bra doesn't really support, so much as it "smooshes". I've added a pinned comment to the top of this video to a link to a video made by a lady who made this bra in a larger size and she gave her thoughts on the style/fit and how it works for a larger size. I think she said she was a D, but the info might still be helpful to you. A sports bra can be a great alternative if this particular bra isn't for you, as a well-fitted one does give a similar 1920's shape (although they tend to be harder to wear under some dresses depending on the neckline).
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pourlavictoire.blogspot.com/2015/03/not-your-grannys-panties-tap-pants-and.html
1920'2 bra pattern.