By watching closely as you assembled all the parts to the clutch a light bulb went off in my head and I discovered how to loosen the terribly tight pressure that my clutch is exerting so I went out and took the cover plate off and pulled that pin and loosened it up two notches and my clutch is just fine now and goes over center with light pole and the clutch doesn't slip Thanks a ton for this video
If the tails of the cotter pins were nested inside the adjacent castle nut's castellations or if they were simply evenly turned around, then they likely used cotter pin pliers. Man, let me tell you, watching a seasoned guy fly through cotter pins with his pairs of pliers is something to behold. Like a freaking martial artist. :))
Excellent video. 30 years ago my D-2 taught me the labor intensive lesson of leaving the clutch disengaged while idling. I drove it to the pressure washer, I pulled it to the shop.
Hi Squatch, in a couple of your videos I noticed that you used the flat side of a ballpeen hammer to roll over a rivet. Way back when I was taught that the ball on the hammer head was for that. What ever works for you though. I love watching you work. You're an artist.
fun watching .my grandfather's brothers worked at cat another one at John deere and a third brother at interacial all building tractors. aaaand you being frot minnesota know about steiger tractors my cousin worked at steiger in Fargo until he retired . now all my granduncle's were deemed non draftable do to the war effort so they were busy ilding cats dozers back when yours were made and beyond and their sons also retired out of cat jd and int. my cousin that worked at steiger was fresh out of school and enlisted he was in patton's fifth army yes at the battle of the bulge.
Hi Toby, more mechanical jewellery. That's a brilliant component restoration. Over here it seems some learner drivers are taught to ride the clutch and of course that wears the release bearing. Similar problem with my dual clutch auto box - I put it in neutral when I stop at lights etc. Very clear explanations and coverage as usual. You could make this series available on DVD should people still have the players! BobUK.
This instalment was like a college lecture on a Monday morning. But you're absolutely right: that spider IS a work of art. The more vids I see on those old tractors, the more my admiration for them CAT engineers grows. Remember they didn't have computers and all the pieces had to be drawn by hand.
I started at Cat in 1988 doing drafting work. I used ink and vellum for drawings. I even made changes to old drawings that were a type of vellum. Some of the drawings dating back to the 1940s. Ink was hard to remove! This was the same time CAD started in at CAT. Those old engineers and drafters were amazing. They really had to think and visualize. Sad to say my job was eliminated in 2012. Wish I was still working for the big yellow machine.
We don't appreciate how much work went into the old iron .in this day of through away parts and equipment. Love watching you and the care you take to get it correct. Thank you.
Hey squatch, I love your videos and they have already helped me a ton on my D2 orchard project. I have a question on what would be the best way to go about getting my main clutch freed up. It won’t snap over like it should and seems to be stuck engaged. It appears to me that is ether held up on the splines or the clutch disk itself, everything else moves freely. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hello Squatch, thank you very much for the detailed explanations about the coupling of the D2. When I watched the film several times, I clearly noticed how much effort you put into your explanations. I'm interested in how long it took you for the preparations (finding and laying out the parts, looking through the technical documents, etc.). I'm looking forward to the next episode, your films are more exciting than any crime thriller. Greetings from Germany.
A couple of years ago I Installed the later " U " style pressure plates and disc in 5J1462, and it's been working fine. I would like to add to the chorus of voices saying you do exceptional work.
Like ninja lol 😆. After watching for so long you too will a old timer who everyone will resource to for reference to rebuild and restore. I just can't get enough . I like eye twitch 👀. Moments lol 😆 I watch religiously . Can't wait Till the next 1 !!!
Hey T. It was like nothing else I’ve seen, watching you set those fold over locks!! Magical!! I seem to learn something new about the older “ Cats “ every time you put up a new video, never new to engage clutch when not in use!! I hope I haven’t done too much damage to the clutch on my D4. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these old pioneers!! 👍🇨🇦👍
Me too, I do like working on those mechanical items ; almost like when I was a kid and 'working ' with my Mecanno set, I guess that's where I started, come to think of it. Nice re-build!
What is the brand and type of the grease you used. Don't be so critical yourself,when things turn out in an undesired manner! I love your never give up attitude!
Excellent videos. Off subject I notice on GM oil pumps in 70,s the part numbers are the same in different years but not the same castings, but they are interchangeable. 400 Pontiac.
I have a 5U series D2 5U2749, it doesnt have the original motor installed, but I do have the original D311 motor sitting there - with easy access to the flywheel. The depth of the flywheel teeth I measured front to back as being 3/4".
Excellent video keep up the great videos 👍👍👍👍the flywheel difference make be with the pilot bearing assembly. I had issues with my Rockford clutch i wanted to go bigger on my 671 Detroit diesel power unit on my sawmill and I bought a clutch from one salvage yard and flywheel from a different salvage yard and when I put it together I locked my motor up then I backed the bolts off and it cranked and started but smoked out of the breather so I shut it down and pulled the clutch off and started measuring the flywheel and then I went to a friends place with a motor that had the clutch off and measured his flywheel and there was about. 40 thousands difference in the center so i had to go on a flywheel hunt again. It's turned out i had a twin disc flywheel that bound up the crankshaft with the Rockford clutch. I learned it pays to measure good a take notes or else a guy can get in trouble fast. I think caterpillar is more standard on parts. Other than updated items
Like a Ninja ...... made me spew my drink laughing. And it is art with the spider and all the moving parts that’s also why I like steam engines. Just sitting idle they are alive and breathing and hissing. Ty for a good dinner with a show Squatch.
Love all the videos. I injoy learning. Im working on a cat 30 now but also bought a diesel 35 and an rd6 this year. Hope to see you do more 3 cylinder stuff soon.
With your videos of rebuilding these old equipment, when it ever come time to sale them, they should bring top dollar because they have evidence of how they were rebuilt.
If you got that new brass clutch collar from Florin check it over good, I got one with Metric bolts and the bolt heads would not lock against the collar, reused the old SAE standard bolts which worked. Also the inner groove was not machined correctly to fit the steel clutch collar. They did send me another and it was ok.
The clutch looks like it was designed by a split pin salesman. Think of the then Cat mind-set engineering this machine. What a contrast compared with the cheapness and short design life of today's equivalent. Thanks Squatch, on a shit winters day in COVID lockdown, you've kept me sane!
How did you learn all this know how you have about equiptment ? Was it from following and learning from Senior? If so you've done well squatch. Verry well
On my d8 wet clutch is set at 225 lbs of snap in pressure on the spider it is built with a hydraulic assist cylinder so you only use 20 lbs or less on the hand lever
I can’t comment on why they might be swapping the flywheels over as far as fitment, but I work on these same clutches in irrigation engine power take offs and a lot of times the teeth in the flywheel side are as worn or worn worse then the friction material so we end up swapping the toothed section because of how worn it is when rebuilding the pto.
Quiz question? Is the torque of the engine transmitted through the teeth on the clutch plate, but how doesn’t the teeth pull off the plate as it’s not as strong as the steel ?
Doesn't need to be as strong as steel, it needs to be "strong enough". The engine is going to make X many foot-pounds of torque. The rim of that clutch disk looks to be around 9 inches, or 3/4 of a foot. So the force at the rim of the clutch disk is 4/3 * X pounds. Divide that number by the number of teeth on the clutch disk and you know the lateral force each tooth needs to sustain. Lets say the engine makes 400 lb-f of torque and there are 100 teeth on the clutch disk. Then 400 * 4 / 3 / 100 = 5.33 pounds. (These probably aren't the right numbers, but I don't have any way of looking up the correct numbers for this machine.) You want to leave a factor of safety, lets say a factor of 2. So each of those 100 teeth would only have to withstand about 11 pounds of force pushing sideways on it. It wouldn't be that hard to find (or in those days, design) a clutch material that had the right friction coefficient and was strong enough to keep from being ripped apart by 11 pounds pushing sideways on a 3/8" thick tooth profile. The real engineering calculations for that disk would be more complicated than that. But the stuff above is the Physics 101 version, and is close enough for discussion sake.
Yes, the teeth are driven by the flywheel's mating internal teeth transferring the engine torque to the gearbox input shaft - when the clutch plate is clamped between the discs. Here the discs are in constant mesh with the gearbox input shaft. Its kind of an opposed setup to the usual standard clutch setup, where the clamping discs are bolted to the flywheel, and the cluth plate is meshed with the gearbox splined shaft.
@@squatch253 thanks for the reply, I’m starting to understand how the many teeth make up for the strength now, thanks. Also I’m a viewer from the Isle of Man, loving the rebuild series
I wonder if those people who said they changed their flywheel had to because of wear on the teeth made the thicker clutch not fit right or something who knows what happened lol great video buddy
Great video. Love how they designed mechanical devices and how they operated, before everything became hydraulic and computerized. Springs and linkages did a lot back in those days. Do you have any decent used pressure plates for a 5U that you would be willing to part with? Maybe the brass clutch parts that the actuator operates.
@@squatch253 i can't wait to hear that engine roar. How many D2 you have I know Iron Mistress5U7066 ,5J1113,5J2115 for parts and couple of others, but I noticed one D2 you never talked about ,it is recorded wright before first 1113 video.??Or maybe I didn't saw that one coming.
I’m a 88 year old mechanic engineer & I can fully appreciate those clutches. They look like a work of art & no 3D CAD programs when they were designed. What is the clutch material?
Do you have the part number for the clutch release fork? My book does not show it. Also is it possible to find a new input seal sleeve? Mine is pretty scarred up. I had a part number of 4B3442 and not finding much. I have a 5U1 machine.
Got a new brass collar for my main clutch. The old was worn pretty bad. trying to figure which way it should go on. It is a newer style, that has a plate that bolts to it. I notice your collar appeared to be the same thickness on either side that fits around the flange. The newer style has different thicknesses on either side for that collar. It appears from the parts manual the thicker side goes to the back of the tractor? Any know for sure? I'll pop over to ACMOC and check there as well.
@@squatch253 Thanks, Yes, just a question of whether the thick side of the collar is at the back, or the thin. Looks like the old one was with the thick side to the back, it is the thinnest on that one now, lol!. Witness marks on the plate also indicate that. My guess would be the thickest part is at the back due to it most likely getting the most wear as it pushes against the flange to engage the clutch. What do you think? How has the weather been there? Getting much done in the field. Been raining and smoky here from all the fires in BC (3 provinces away).
Debating whether to build up the flange. There is still some play with the new collar, but way less than with the old one. Will have to measure and see how much play there is.
By watching closely as you assembled all the parts to the clutch a light bulb went off in my head and I discovered how to loosen the terribly tight pressure that my clutch is exerting so I went out and took the cover plate off and pulled that pin and loosened it up two notches and my clutch is just fine now and goes over center with light pole and the clutch doesn't slip
Thanks a ton for this video
Hello! Valuable information! Greetings from a D4D owner!
that was like a ninja, lol
Like a ninja🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 That cracked me up🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
We need to change the "Green Triangle" of Reduce, Reuse, Recycle to a Square and add REBUILD!
Squatch, you’re rolling on your winter project! Ninjas ain’t got anything on you. You’re on fire! As always, thanks for inviting us along. 🇺🇸🚜👍
Cat sure did build their equipment to last back in the day!!
If the tails of the cotter pins were nested inside the adjacent castle nut's castellations or if they were simply evenly turned around, then they likely used cotter pin pliers. Man, let me tell you, watching a seasoned guy fly through cotter pins with his pairs of pliers is something to behold. Like a freaking martial artist. :))
Excellent video. 30 years ago my D-2 taught me the labor intensive lesson of leaving the clutch disengaged while idling. I drove it to the pressure washer, I pulled it to the shop.
Hi Squatch, in a couple of your videos I noticed that you used the flat side of a ballpeen hammer to roll over a rivet. Way back when I was taught that the ball on the hammer head was for that. What ever works for you though. I love watching you work. You're an artist.
Eating supper while watching Squatch! I appreciate good work.
fun watching .my grandfather's brothers worked at cat another one at John deere and a third brother at interacial all building tractors. aaaand you being frot minnesota know about steiger tractors my cousin worked at steiger in Fargo until he retired . now all my granduncle's were deemed non draftable do to the war effort so they were busy ilding cats dozers back when yours were made and beyond and their sons also retired out of cat jd and int. my cousin that worked at steiger was fresh out of school and enlisted he was in patton's fifth army yes at the battle of the bulge.
That clutch spider assembly reminds me of part of the pitch control link mechanism for some helicopter rotor heads.
Can't watch squatch alone anymore....my wife is in love.lol
My wife, with several degrees, thinks squatch is an artist of the highest order. I couldn't agree more. What a mind and work ethic.
Hi Toby, more mechanical jewellery. That's a brilliant component restoration. Over here it seems some learner drivers are taught to ride the clutch and of course that wears the release bearing. Similar problem with my dual clutch auto box - I put it in neutral when I stop at lights etc. Very clear explanations and coverage as usual. You could make this series available on DVD should people still have the players! BobUK.
This instalment was like a college lecture on a Monday morning. But you're absolutely right: that spider IS a work of art. The more vids I see on those old tractors, the more my admiration for them CAT engineers grows. Remember they didn't have computers and all the pieces had to be drawn by hand.
Yes, that was the day when a draftsman could earn a good wage.
I started at Cat in 1988 doing drafting work. I used ink and vellum for drawings. I even made changes to old drawings that were a type of vellum. Some of the drawings dating back to the 1940s. Ink was hard to remove! This was the same time CAD started in at CAT. Those old engineers and drafters were amazing. They really had to think and visualize. Sad to say my job was eliminated in 2012. Wish I was still working for the big yellow machine.
That clutch assembly is a work of art! I love it, man... Keep 'em coming!
We don't appreciate how much work went into the old iron .in this day of through away parts and equipment. Love watching you and the care you take to get it correct. Thank you.
Another great and informative transformation.....thanks for taking us along for the ride! Best wishes to you and Senior and be well.
Love your videos going to help me alot with my restoration thank you
I hate to bother ya but what is the point gap on the pony motor sopost to be
Thank you sir
Hey squatch, I love your videos and they have already helped me a ton on my D2 orchard project. I have a question on what would be the best way to go about getting my main clutch freed up. It won’t snap over like it should and seems to be stuck engaged. It appears to me that is ether held up on the splines or the clutch disk itself, everything else moves freely. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Really enjoy being along for the ride. Long live Squatch! (and Sr)
When you were talking about clutch dogs I was just thinking you need a shop dog. Short hair breed so it would be easier to wash and de-grease.
Nice work Squatch..keep it on center..
Yes, beauty is in the eye of flywheel holder. :-) GREAT job as usual.
Hello Squatch, thank you very much for the detailed explanations about the coupling of the D2. When I watched the film several times, I clearly noticed how much effort you put into your explanations. I'm interested in how long it took you for the preparations (finding and laying out the parts, looking through the technical documents, etc.). I'm looking forward to the next episode, your films are more exciting than any crime thriller. Greetings from Germany.
Good job sir.. I like when you share all good history info. about old CATS.
Thank you.
I liked the magic hands! You’re absolutely right, that is a beautiful piece of machinery! Thank you
Has to be the technical explanation followed by the rebuild of all the components that I'm interested in an pickin up so many tips along the way 👍👍
Haven't even watched it yet....and still give Toby a thumbs up because he's one of the best.
Your quality of videos and work are second to none.I look forward to them as they come out.Some day Ill get back to my d2.
I absolutely loved the organization to this build. Like putting together a big ass watch.
Great episode - thanks! Couldn't agree more regarding your chunk of industrial art there. I'd have that on my living room coffee table any day.
LIKE A NINJA! Rewound that 3 times! Outstanding! Keep these productions coming....😂👍
When I saw those split pins positioned as precisely as they were, my left eye began to twitch. lol
A couple of years ago I Installed the later " U " style pressure plates and disc in 5J1462, and it's been working fine. I would like to add to the chorus of voices saying you do exceptional work.
Like ninja lol 😆. After watching for so long you too will a old timer who everyone will resource to for reference to rebuild and restore. I just can't get enough . I like eye twitch 👀. Moments lol 😆 I watch religiously . Can't wait Till the next 1 !!!
Great start to Monday morning. Split pins and foldover locks. Just need a smear of Cosmolene..........
It's magic to me... such a skilled instructor... and an excellent video. We thank you for taking us along!
Your films keep me glued to the screen more than any episode crime trhiller. Can't wait to see the first engine start. Greetings from Rome
Hey T. It was like nothing else I’ve seen, watching you set those fold over locks!! Magical!! I seem to learn something new about the older “ Cats “ every time you put up a new video, never new to engage clutch when not in use!! I hope I haven’t done too much damage to the clutch on my D4. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these old pioneers!! 👍🇨🇦👍
Me too, I do like working on those mechanical items ; almost like when I was a kid and 'working ' with my Mecanno set, I guess that's where I started, come to think of it.
Nice re-build!
Me too with the Mechanno set.
@@johnwythe1409 Yeah Buddy!
The engineering that these guys did back in the day never ceases to amaze me!!
Yes! So glad you're doing the steer clutches,.......I've never done them and that's next challenge with my 1943.
Thank you ☺️
This is really good stuff. Thank you for taking the time to explain the differences.
Like a NINJA! 😂. Love it! I like it when you do the fast forward too. It’s so fun to watch!
Really interesting, Squatch. Thanks for the comparison. Makes perfect sense. Looking forward to the steering clutch disassembly!
This is so fun to watch happen even if I probably will never own one.
Top, Top,Top as everytime. A german crafsman.
What is the brand and type of the grease you used. Don't be so critical yourself,when things turn out in an undesired manner! I love your never give up attitude!
One lucky Cat. Gonna get 10 lives thanks to you.
Excellent videos. Off subject I notice on GM oil pumps in 70,s the part numbers are the same in different years but not the same castings, but they are interchangeable. 400 Pontiac.
So glad it is working out for you
Love you content, brings back memories going through the cat parts books.
I have a 5U series D2 5U2749, it doesnt have the original motor installed, but I do have the original D311 motor sitting there - with easy access to the flywheel. The depth of the flywheel teeth I measured front to back as being 3/4".
@@squatch253 Your most welcome. Love your videos.
Well your not alone in that I feel quite the same way.
For the age of that unit that clutch assembly is pretty intricate. Damn near looks bulletproof. Lol👍👍
Excellent video keep up the great videos 👍👍👍👍the flywheel difference make be with the pilot bearing assembly. I had issues with my Rockford clutch i wanted to go bigger on my 671 Detroit diesel power unit on my sawmill and I bought a clutch from one salvage yard and flywheel from a different salvage yard and when I put it together I locked my motor up then I backed the bolts off and it cranked and started but smoked out of the breather so I shut it down and pulled the clutch off and started measuring the flywheel and then I went to a friends place with a motor that had the clutch off and measured his flywheel and there was about. 40 thousands difference in the center so i had to go on a flywheel hunt again. It's turned out i had a twin disc flywheel that bound up the crankshaft with the Rockford clutch. I learned it pays to measure good a take notes or else a guy can get in trouble fast. I think caterpillar is more standard on parts. Other than updated items
Looks like Salvage Workshop dude is going to need to see some starting motor vids soon... poor guy.
Like a Ninja ...... made me spew my drink laughing. And it is art with the spider and all the moving parts that’s also why I like steam engines. Just sitting idle they are alive and breathing and hissing. Ty for a good dinner with a show Squatch.
Love all the videos. I injoy learning. Im working on a cat 30 now but also bought a diesel 35 and an rd6 this year. Hope to see you do more 3 cylinder stuff soon.
Interesting rebuild....thank you
With your videos of rebuilding these old equipment, when it ever come time to sale them, they should bring top dollar because they have evidence of how they were rebuilt.
If you got that new brass clutch collar from Florin check it over good, I got one with Metric bolts and the bolt heads would not lock against the collar, reused the old SAE standard bolts which worked. Also the inner groove was not machined correctly to fit the steel clutch collar. They did send me another and it was ok.
Good work sir, keep up the spirit.
The clutch looks like it was designed by a split pin salesman. Think of the then Cat mind-set engineering this machine. What a contrast compared with the cheapness and short design life of today's equivalent. Thanks Squatch, on a shit winters day in COVID lockdown, you've kept me sane!
How did you learn all this know how you have about equiptment ? Was it from following and learning from Senior? If so you've done well squatch. Verry well
LOL Like a Ninja! Plain fkn Love it
Cool beans. That looks good
Awesome bro just to have somebody that knows what the hell they're talking about because they look at it and figure it out instead of guessing
Wouldn't miss it! Won't be too long til' you can burn some tires, ugh tracks!
Great job 😉😊💪🖒🖑
1-1/4 input shaft usually good up to about 750ftlbs so plenty safe in those old girls. :-)
Your comments on the spider a nd plate Assembly definitely define you as an "engineering romantic " :)
On my d8 wet clutch is set at 225 lbs of snap in pressure on the spider it is built with a hydraulic assist cylinder so you only use 20 lbs or less on the hand lever
Thicker disc has no more grip for higher HP motor, just has more thickness for longer wear,
Great video 👍🏻. Could you machine the thicker disc to replace the older style?
I can’t comment on why they might be swapping the flywheels over as far as fitment, but I work on these same clutches in irrigation engine power take offs and a lot of times the teeth in the flywheel side are as worn or worn worse then the friction material so we end up swapping the toothed section because of how worn it is when rebuilding the pto.
there's your t-shirt I LOVE MECHANISMS
Quiz question? Is the torque of the engine transmitted through the teeth on the clutch plate, but how doesn’t the teeth pull off the plate as it’s not as strong as the steel ?
Doesn't need to be as strong as steel, it needs to be "strong enough". The engine is going to make X many foot-pounds of torque. The rim of that clutch disk looks to be around 9 inches, or 3/4 of a foot. So the force at the rim of the clutch disk is 4/3 * X pounds. Divide that number by the number of teeth on the clutch disk and you know the lateral force each tooth needs to sustain.
Lets say the engine makes 400 lb-f of torque and there are 100 teeth on the clutch disk. Then 400 * 4 / 3 / 100 = 5.33 pounds. (These probably aren't the right numbers, but I don't have any way of looking up the correct numbers for this machine.) You want to leave a factor of safety, lets say a factor of 2. So each of those 100 teeth would only have to withstand about 11 pounds of force pushing sideways on it. It wouldn't be that hard to find (or in those days, design) a clutch material that had the right friction coefficient and was strong enough to keep from being ripped apart by 11 pounds pushing sideways on a 3/8" thick tooth profile.
The real engineering calculations for that disk would be more complicated than that. But the stuff above is the Physics 101 version, and is close enough for discussion sake.
Yes, the teeth are driven by the flywheel's mating internal teeth transferring the engine torque to the gearbox input shaft - when the clutch plate is clamped between the discs.
Here the discs are in constant mesh with the gearbox input shaft.
Its kind of an opposed setup to the usual standard clutch setup, where the clamping discs are bolted to the flywheel, and the cluth plate is meshed with the gearbox splined shaft.
@@squatch253 thanks for the reply, I’m starting to understand how the many teeth make up for the strength now, thanks. Also I’m a viewer from the Isle of Man, loving the rebuild series
I wonder if those people who said they changed their flywheel had to because of wear on the teeth made the thicker clutch not fit right or something who knows what happened lol great video buddy
Looking good!
Thanks for Sharing!
Hi Squatch, not sure if you've seen any of the episodes but SalvageWorkshop is resurrecting a 955 Traxcvator.
Great video. Love how they designed mechanical devices and how they operated, before everything became hydraulic and computerized. Springs and linkages did a lot back in those days.
Do you have any decent used pressure plates for a 5U that you would be willing to part with? Maybe the brass clutch parts that the actuator operates.
YUP,
I'm sure you are genetically related to a cat machine. Gotta love it
Is there some Movie Magic here or did the clutch shop have a super fast turnaround for you !?
@@squatch253 Not like the machine shop with the starter motors.
@@squatch253 i can't wait to hear that engine roar. How many D2 you have I know Iron Mistress5U7066 ,5J1113,5J2115 for parts and couple of others, but I noticed one D2 you never talked about ,it is recorded wright before first 1113 video.??Or maybe I didn't saw that one coming.
Your not the only one that want to hear that motor run
@@squatch253 llllllllllllll
Lllllllll
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Lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
@@squatch253 llllllllllllll
Lllllllll
L
Lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
Industrial "art" is a form of sculpture. Some old Harley and Indian parts have that same art look.
Any update on the moline prototype and how's it coming into the cat pony/starter engine?
Like a Ninja!
Hey Squatch253 , Salvage Workshop just lost a pony motor in his Cat Traxcivator Miss spell. I pointed him in your direction.
I’m a 88 year old mechanic engineer & I can fully appreciate those clutches. They look like a work of art & no 3D CAD programs when they were designed.
What is the clutch material?
Naruto Squatch? Amusing!
That will make your heart jump
Same set-up in Monarch lathes. Tech that crossed into many different industries. Who knew?
"Like a Ninja". :)
Watch Wes Work sent me. Good content. Thanks!
Do you have the part number for the clutch release fork? My book does not show it. Also is it possible to find a new input seal sleeve? Mine is pretty scarred up. I had a part number of 4B3442 and not finding much. I have a 5U1 machine.
Good stuff
Got a new brass collar for my main clutch. The old was worn pretty bad. trying to figure which way it should go on. It is a newer style, that has a plate that bolts to it. I notice your collar appeared to be the same thickness on either side that fits around the flange. The newer style has different thicknesses on either side for that collar. It appears from the parts manual the thicker side goes to the back of the tractor? Any know for sure? I'll pop over to ACMOC and check there as well.
@@squatch253 Thanks, Yes, just a question of whether the thick side of the collar is at the back, or the thin. Looks like the old one was with the thick side to the back, it is the thinnest on that one now, lol!. Witness marks on the plate also indicate that. My guess would be the thickest part is at the back due to it most likely getting the most wear as it pushes against the flange to engage the clutch. What do you think?
How has the weather been there? Getting much done in the field. Been raining and smoky here from all the fires in BC (3 provinces away).
Debating whether to build up the flange. There is still some play with the new collar, but way less than with the old one. Will have to measure and see how much play there is.
35 thousands is what I measured.