I'd probably have at least put some DeOxIt on the non-weatherpack connectors (at the ECM/ECU? The yellow one...) just looking at basic positioning, that's probably prone more to water getting in the back-side of the pins than any of the delphi/packard connectors with grommets on each conductor (such as that on the crank sensor)....
This is one of those things you only learn through methodical troubleshooting... Touch/eliminate only one thing at a time. So many guys just go running around pushing, turning, stressing this, unplugging/replugging that, they've just made their job 10x harder by disturbing. From where you ended the video I'd take that handheld diag and intentionally but slowly stress the wire loom/harness, and individual wires of the crank sensor while watching for dropout. Great video, I did industrial troubleshooting for many years, brings back fond memories of the fun challenges.
I think you should have sprayed some contact cleaner in those connections , plug then unplug them a dozen times, spray again, then used some new dielectric grease. I think they even have files that are made to clean connections like those. This reminds me of what Eric O says about not touching stuff because you can make the problem go away temporarily but then the customer comes back.
That kind of fix never happens when you want it to ... like when you're broken down along the side the interstate, hours from home! At first I thought maybe your scope connections somehow completed a circuit. I watched a vid recently where the tech's scan tool did the same on a car - it completed a path to ground, and fixed the problem. Looks like you've got a great customer there! Congrats - you'll have plenty of work! 👍🍻😁
Hi Ivan. Next time hit "enter" when your analyzer powers up. It will give you the current fault. Hit enter a second time and it will give you the history fault log . It usually points you into the right direction . Well done on finding the fault . Can always count on you making fault finding look easy...LOL! Cheers .
Ivan thinks let's hook up pico, wiggle, wiggle. Damn i fixed it. Just a bit of wiggling. Crimp those spade connector And put dielectric grease on. It's Good to go!! Let's see if there's a follow up. Lol
I would wrap a zip tie to bind those connectors together!( if possible) Great video Ivan, so interesting working on the construction equipment. Thank you!
Ivan-- You've been tagged. Now you get to work on anything that don't work!!!!! One of my Friends was well known for working on everything soo. He was called out to a small, remote Planetarium that didn't work because GE was the maker of it. We worked for Healthcare!! He went and replaced the light inside so the Stars would shine again!! Pretty funny back 20 years ago. I still kid him about that.
I'm afraid I have to agree w several other comments. You were hooking up scope and it fixed itself? I'd be tug testing or looking at female terminals good/checking pin fitment..,..
That tools paying for itself again and making you money now. Next lift will be profit. That some good troubleshooting, it’s nice to see other people follow the prints and use the skills they learned to go deep
We have dozens of Kabota diesel powered boom and scissor lifts on the Australian mine site I work. Though the models onsite are certified mine spec, meaning specific design properties to ensure survival in extremely harsh environments, still fails to translate to reliability. The extra complexity is usually the multiplying factor in failures. 👍👍🇭🇲
Daughter's Honda did something similar, went for a short period and then shut down. The crank sensor was faulty. Frustrating not to pinpoint the reason for a no connection as disturbing the harness probably fixed the fault. Plenty of dust and dirt flying about a building site so extra pressure on the electrical dept. Expect a recall at some stage in the future but at least you've got the problem covered.
I had the same problem with my wife's 2005 Honda civic, the reason for the crankshaft sensor failure is when a tech replaced the timing belt water pump etc, when the water pump is removed coolant Runs down the front of the engine right into the open sensor connector, then if the coolant is left in there it starts to corrode the connections causing a hard or no start problem a few months or year later, I have done this job that's how I know. Good luck everyone, stay classy :)
I had the same problem with my wife's 2005 Honda civic, the reason for the crankshaft sensor failure is when a tech replaced the timing belt water pump etc, when the water pump is removed coolant Runs down the front of the engine right into the open sensor connector, then if the coolant is left in there it starts to corrode the connections causing a hard or no start problem a few months or year later, I have done this job that's how I know. Good luck everyone, stay classy :)
I like to have a propane bottle with a cut off torch with a hose connected. Add fuel with propane thru hose in air filter housing etc...this can help isolate problems
Ivan please keep safe working on construction equipment. Don't trust anything that you have to get under without some type of safety pin or bar in the mechanism.
...enjoyed the video Ivan....love goin' out into the field for repair.....but something tells me that "Murphy" is gonna be calling you back on this one and making you find that poor connection....lol
I’ve noticed that you have a few amp clamp meters that you use. Mainly the Craftsman in most recent videos but you have used a Fluke in the past. I’m shopping for a amp meter to use for automotive and would like information about them that you might provide. Thank you
Also on the start screen of the analizer if you press enter it will let you know any fault codes in the system. You can also run a self diagnostic by going into service mode by entering service code. Then diagnostics. I t will then check all inputs and outputs for you.
at that point, I'd have moved it away form the house and pulled all the terminals out 1 by 1 clean/tighten and re-installed, also clean the male half of the plug while looking for wire corrosion. then apply new grease :)
They sure do have a lot of broken equipment... Must be different job sites...our lifts break down once every few years. Definitely some tricky diagnostics.
Wonder if dielectric grease was on the contacts themselves creating the problem, due do it being non conductive. It protects items from moisture, but can also prohibit conductivity.
How did it start and run with your scope leads disconnected from ckp? Seen no start on a vehicle before that would start every time with scope leads connected to ckp and would be a no start when disconnected. I have a feeling you already know the answer to this one.
Ivan, have you done an oil pan gasket on the Mercury Cougar? I will be doing one on the Ford Contour V6. I wonder how high I have to jack up the engine to clear the pan?
My guess as high as the pan is because the oil pump is nearly at the bottom of your pan. Make it 3/4 of the height and be cautious when, you could get it out by turning it a little bit. Still, you have to fit under the car, so keep your belly in mind :)
@@Spelter Will the pan get damaged by lifting the engine with a block of wood on a floor jack? I would then secure the engine with an engine support from the top.
Common faults on manlifts: Sometimes LPG switch on by error.Connections come loose in control boxes, Connection s corroded loose. Also if you put planetary buttons on hub in it release s the hub brakes and you can move it free wheel away from house. On the carbs there is a small solenoid on main jet shuts gasoline off for LPG use and or shut down s for low oil pressure.If jumped motor will run.
I haven't watched the video yet, but I was listening to that fuel pump click and it seemed to stop clicking just before the rngine cut out, so I'm going with an electrical shut down of the fuel pump...
Привет Иван! Починилось само... Такая двусмысленная ситуация при ремонта бывает... Меня это тяготит. Все время думаю, а вдруг завтра позвонит клиент "опять сломалось". Ты даешь гарантию на такие не конкретные случаи? И вообще, как у тебя с гарантийными обязательствами? Расскажи, интересно знать! Смотрю с интересом, Денис!
I would check all the connectors for adequate tension, pinching down (tightening) any that are questionable (sloppy, loose). Female spade connectors can get loose over time.
certainly the carburetor bowl is larger than a thimble...... meaning it would likely run for well over 30 seconds, possibly even multiple minutes with fuel pump off (from full bowl) the pump shutting off was staged shutdown from input failure, if it was dual fuel it could have also been a the fuel changeover point, lack of propane, not purged etc. ( dont think that was a dual fuel though)
you can just shove them out of there with a tractor. I done it before with a big genie boom lift using a 3cx the wheels will just slide along in the muck no problem
Stop Fkcu ing with it now that it's running and get it away from the building before it stops again. Then look at the connections or what ever you want.
That's what SMA says, don't jiggle too much cause you don't know what you fixed. Love your channel and Eric's channel!!!
As soon as it started running, i'd have moved it away from the wall, but I'm a fat guy :)
I was thinking the same thing. I need room to work
Trouble cleared while testing. That was the "gold standard" of explanations when I worked for the telephone company.
Pull test all those wires. I fear you will have a comeback on that one..
I was just going to say the same thing.
Lee Dress exactly what I was thinking Ivan is good but no magic stick was used here . I’m thinking bad solder joints where one of those plugs are. .
That is never a fix..
I'd probably have at least put some DeOxIt on the non-weatherpack connectors (at the ECM/ECU? The yellow one...) just looking at basic positioning, that's probably prone more to water getting in the back-side of the pins than any of the delphi/packard connectors with grommets on each conductor (such as that on the crank sensor)....
Deoxit wouldn't hurt.
This is one of those things you only learn through methodical troubleshooting... Touch/eliminate only one thing at a time. So many guys just go running around pushing, turning, stressing this, unplugging/replugging that, they've just made their job 10x harder by disturbing. From where you ended the video I'd take that handheld diag and intentionally but slowly stress the wire loom/harness, and individual wires of the crank sensor while watching for dropout.
Great video, I did industrial troubleshooting for many years, brings back fond memories of the fun challenges.
Got to love these NPR repairs.
Loving the construction stuff, thanks for sharing and all your effort.
Pine Hollow Lift Diagnostics. Has a nice ring to it :)
Be careful ,if you make a habit of hanging around construction site you'll soon end up with a hammer in your hand lol.
Ya true
those are so fun to run!!! said no man(or woman) ever :))
@@throttlebottle5906 ya
I think you should have sprayed some contact cleaner in those connections , plug then unplug them a dozen times, spray again, then used some new dielectric grease. I think they even have files that are made to clean connections like those.
This reminds me of what Eric O says about not touching stuff because you can make the problem go away temporarily but then the customer comes back.
Fix-it Felix. Thank you Ivan. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
That kind of fix never happens when you want it to ... like when you're broken down along the side the interstate, hours from home!
At first I thought maybe your scope connections somehow completed a circuit. I watched a vid recently where the tech's scan tool did the same on a car - it completed a path to ground, and fixed the problem.
Looks like you've got a great customer there! Congrats - you'll have plenty of work! 👍🍻😁
A very uplifting experience! Ivan Scissorlift Hands! Or Ivan the Lift Whisper!
Lets add hi-tech to equipment. Great idea!
Hi Ivan. Next time hit "enter" when your analyzer powers up. It will give you the current fault. Hit enter a second time and it will give you the history fault log . It usually points you into the right direction . Well done on finding the fault . Can always count on you making fault finding look easy...LOL! Cheers .
Great diagnosis and proving the fault.
Thanks for sharing.
looks like a good candidate for some DeoxIT
Ivan thinks let's hook up pico, wiggle, wiggle. Damn i fixed it. Just a bit of wiggling. Crimp those spade connector And put dielectric grease on. It's Good to go!! Let's see if there's a follow up. Lol
I would wrap a zip tie to bind those connectors together!( if possible) Great video Ivan, so interesting working on the construction equipment. Thank you!
@11:42 you can hear the fuel pump clicking stop just before it dies... Nailed it!
Amazing! One thing, try to tight the conector pins for a better grip and connection
Darn Ivan I was waiting for the bonus footage. You have let us down LOL. You’ll be back ❤️ Artie
Ivan-- You've been tagged. Now you get to work on anything that don't work!!!!! One of my Friends was well known for working on everything soo. He was called out to a small, remote Planetarium that didn't work because GE was the maker of it. We worked for Healthcare!! He went and replaced the light inside so the Stars would shine again!! Pretty funny back 20 years ago. I still kid him about that.
Rock , paper , scissorlift !!
I'm afraid I have to agree w several other comments. You were hooking up scope and it fixed itself? I'd be tug testing or looking at female terminals good/checking pin fitment..,..
Haha, the famous last words :D
Often, when trying to stay positive and saying "at least the XXX works", that's the next thing which fails :D
As to where Id start well Id start by calling you!😊
Dirty opens are the worst to diagnose.. great video!
That tools paying for itself again and making you money now. Next lift will be profit. That some good troubleshooting, it’s nice to see other people follow the prints and use the skills they learned to go deep
Mr Crusty again! Deox it and Dyelectric grease will keep Mr Crusty from returning....
You're becoming quite the expert on these dudes.
You bet you will be back . It cant be that eazy all the time Ivan.
Love this video. You're like the mad scientist from a black and white movie who saved the earth from the evil scissor invasion.
Nice one Ivan, You got the bear on that one! Your getting all these construction site jobs, I'm going to have to send You a proper Ivan MSHA hard hat.
We have dozens of Kabota diesel powered boom and scissor lifts on the Australian mine site I work. Though the models onsite are certified mine spec, meaning specific design properties to ensure survival in extremely harsh environments, still fails to translate to reliability. The extra complexity is usually the multiplying factor in failures. 👍👍🇭🇲
Those Jlg speed sensors are notorious for failing. If I were you I would get one in my spares. Common fault on scissors and booms.
just had one fail last week 400.00
Daughter's Honda did something similar, went for a short period and then shut down. The crank sensor was faulty. Frustrating not to pinpoint the reason for a no connection as disturbing the harness probably fixed the fault. Plenty of dust and dirt flying about a building site so extra pressure on the electrical dept. Expect a recall at some stage in the future but at least you've got the problem covered.
I had the same problem with my wife's 2005 Honda civic, the reason for the crankshaft sensor failure is when a tech replaced the timing belt water pump etc, when the water pump is removed coolant Runs down the front of the engine right into the open sensor connector, then if the coolant is left in there it starts to corrode the connections causing a hard or no start problem a few months or year later, I have done this job that's how I know. Good luck everyone, stay classy :)
I had the same problem with my wife's 2005 Honda civic, the reason for the crankshaft sensor failure is when a tech replaced the timing belt water pump etc, when the water pump is removed coolant Runs down the front of the engine right into the open sensor connector, then if the coolant is left in there it starts to corrode the connections causing a hard or no start problem a few months or year later, I have done this job that's how I know. Good luck everyone, stay classy :)
@@raymondreiff8170 We heard you the first time.
I like to have a propane bottle with a cut off torch with a hose connected. Add fuel with propane thru hose in air filter housing etc...this can help isolate problems
Hmmm, is it fixed or not? I guess we shall see! Thanks Ivan.
You’re becoming the lift repair Jedi
Yep it's acting all nice and happy while you are there lol, but later he he fun time :-D
Corroded wire crimping maybe?
Or a micky taking sensor lol.
Had to smile, I think we've all been down the dirty connection road
Ivan please keep safe working on construction equipment. Don't trust anything that you have to get under without some type of safety pin or bar in the mechanism.
...enjoyed the video Ivan....love goin' out into the field for repair.....but something tells me that "Murphy" is gonna be calling you back on this one and making you
find that poor connection....lol
I’ve noticed that you have a few amp clamp meters that you use. Mainly the Craftsman in most recent videos but you have used a Fluke in the past. I’m shopping for a amp meter to use for automotive and would like information about them that you might provide. Thank you
I was expecting an application of DeoxIT...
Also on the start screen of the analizer if you press enter it will let you know any fault codes in the system. You can also run a self diagnostic by going into service mode by entering service code. Then diagnostics. I t will then check all inputs and outputs for you.
Was it sourcing voltage or a ground through your scope? Just weird how all you did was pierce those wires and it ran.
Ivan the construction lift whisperer
at that point, I'd have moved it away form the house and pulled all the terminals out 1 by 1 clean/tighten and re-installed, also clean the male half of the plug while looking for wire corrosion.
then apply new grease :)
Famous last words from who else but Arnie...I'LL BE BAKK JLG
It wouldn't start. You got it to start. Some customers are never satisfied
hola veo tus videos son muy buenos saludos
when people say "take it easy", and you say "I'll take it any way I can get it" that would apply here. Jiggle a wire and it works. I'm good with that.
I think a lot of us were screaming move it from the wall!
They sure do have a lot of broken equipment... Must be different job sites...our lifts break down once every few years. Definitely some tricky diagnostics.
This company bought a whole bunch of decomissioned rentals...they break down quite often haha ;)
Wonder if dielectric grease was on the contacts themselves creating the problem, due do it being non conductive.
It protects items from moisture, but can also prohibit conductivity.
They'll call you back in a couple days when that connection (or broken wire) goes open again.
Stay Tuned :D
How did it start and run with your scope leads disconnected from ckp? Seen no start on a vehicle before that would start every time with scope leads connected to ckp and would be a no start when disconnected. I have a feeling you already know the answer to this one.
Ivan, have you done an oil pan gasket on the Mercury Cougar? I will be doing one on the Ford Contour V6. I wonder how high I have to jack up the engine to clear the pan?
My guess as high as the pan is because the oil pump is nearly at the bottom of your pan. Make it 3/4 of the height and be cautious when, you could get it out by turning it a little bit. Still, you have to fit under the car, so keep your belly in mind :)
@@Spelter Will the pan get damaged by lifting the engine with a block of wood on a floor jack? I would then secure the engine with an engine support from the top.
i believe after youy remove the exhaust system it clears everything else, but don't take it as 100% definite, it's been a while I touched one last ;)
This was a McDonalds moment...you deserve a break today.
Common faults on manlifts:
Sometimes LPG switch on by error.Connections come loose in control boxes, Connection s corroded loose.
Also if you put planetary buttons on hub in it release s the hub brakes and you can move it free wheel away from house.
On the carbs there is a small solenoid on main jet shuts gasoline off for LPG use and or shut down s for low oil pressure.If jumped motor will run.
Hook up the Pico scope and it works!
I haven't watched the video yet, but I was listening to that fuel pump click and it seemed to stop clicking just before the rngine cut out, so I'm going with an electrical shut down of the fuel pump...
Lack of maintainance allways sucks. Book one hour to clean and protect all electrical connections.
Sounded like the fuel pump stopped?
Pine Hallow Construction Diagnostics
Maybe you could suggest a maintenance program to clean connectors periodically get Eric O to make a house call.
you funny
Привет Иван! Починилось само... Такая двусмысленная ситуация при ремонта бывает... Меня это тяготит. Все время думаю, а вдруг завтра позвонит клиент "опять сломалось". Ты даешь гарантию на такие не конкретные случаи? И вообще, как у тебя с гарантийными обязательствами? Расскажи, интересно знать!
Смотрю с интересом, Денис!
I would check all the connectors for adequate tension, pinching down (tightening) any that are questionable (sloppy, loose). Female spade connectors can get loose over time.
hot wire the fuel pump. Some interlock is not keeping the fuel pump running. Oil pressure switch possibly.
certainly the carburetor bowl is larger than a thimble...... meaning it would likely run for well over 30 seconds, possibly even multiple minutes with fuel pump off (from full bowl)
the pump shutting off was staged shutdown from input failure, if it was dual fuel it could have also been a the fuel changeover point, lack of propane, not purged etc. ( dont think that was a dual fuel though)
Sometimes all it takes is a little wiggle 😂
No attenuator on your ignition coil control circuit channel?! 😳
I think it’s the modular housing system
it has to be the signal wire that tells it to shut off. something wrong with the tach? oil pressure. that's where I would first start
That 26MRT’s were all ways common a cold natured we had about 8 in are rental fleet
Техника истосковалась без внимания, как ты прикасаешься к ней, она начинает работать!
Good
tht scantool will save a lot of time it would have been nice to see where the rpm signal came in wht wire on ground electronics
FM - F****** Magic
you can just shove them out of there with a tractor. I done it before with a big genie boom lift using a 3cx the wheels will just slide along in the muck no problem
You should go around to some other job sites and leave a business card ! There could be good money in theses repairs.
Are you sizzering again Ivan
No Charge light, at first glance, so I'd investigate that. it's not fuel, it get's switched off electrically.
IVAN THE BUZZER, you cant hear it?
Fuel pump is my guess.
Had to replace crank sensor on them Before
the gas tank vent is pluged
But Ivan I’ll let you diagnose it
Propane hose stuck in the airstream to see if its fuel!!
Get it away from the wall!
I am baffled as to why once the engine was running stable, it wasn't moved away from the wall.
because they'd just move it back there to use it for work? which is why it was there to start with :))
@@throttlebottle5906 - You misunderstood my question.
if it starts and operates on it's own call it christine and leave it alone.
Pierced through a green crusty H.R. connection while you messed with that connector you reckon? Who cares mate it's fixed!!!
No bonus footage? For some reason, I feel letdown...
... Powers and grounds....
I'd start by unplugging that annoying noise maker.
BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP
3 wire sensor = needs voltage. low battery iffy connection no run. load test and volt drop the wires
Indeed , isn't true that cars and construction sites equipment are alike.
Stop Fkcu ing with it now that it's running and get it away from the building before it stops again. Then look at the connections or what ever you want.