How to set a Fluval FX6 filter up for maxiumum efficiency. Fluval FX6 Filter: geni.us/EQDjIBP Fluval FX5 Filter (Ebay): ebay.to/2G2SIIz Foams and Biohome Ultimate: www.filterpro.co.uk Full kit to upgrade a Fluval FX6 or FX5 can be found on the 'Filter Kits' page of the FilterPro website: bit.ly/2LuRtl0 (FilterPro site has links to suppliers in other countries) Flexible light used in video: geni.us/OUJDB The Fluval FX6 is the friendly monster of the canister filter world and has a powerful pump, excellent mechanical filtration and decent provision for biological filtration. However, since it 'only' holds around 5kg of biohome ultimate it is really suited to normally stocked tanks of up to 500 litres (132 US gallons) or heavily stocked tanks of up to 250 litres (66 US gallons) if you want to achieve a full cycle. Note: If your FX6 is a new version it will have extra red trays which fit inside main trays - they are not needed unless you need to use one in bottom tray to separate carbon from filter media without using a mesh bag. A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere. Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome ultimate does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios: (1 US gallon = 3.8 litres) (1kg = 2.2 lbs) Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres *Avoid using any water conditioner which claims to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (e.g. Seachem Prime) since that will severely limit the active population of beneficial bacteria and therefore prevent a full cycle. All you need is a simple dechlorinator (e.g. API Stress Coat) to ensure that the water is safe for life and you never need to add more bacteria when the filter is properly set up since the vast majority of bacteria will be in the filter media (and is not removed during a water change).* You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat. Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'. This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on: sales@filterpro.co.uk 07772848730 (Richard) Anyone who sends a filter (UK only at present) will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win. The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible: Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/ FILMING EQUIPMENT: Panasonic HC-VX870 HD camcorder geni.us/3UwE +Rode stereo microphone: geni.us/4OL +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover: geni.us/1pmn JVC Everio quad proof HD camcorder: geni.us/e09e +Rode 'deadcat' mic cover (opened up and held between tripod and camera base) geni.us/dee24 Zomei Z666 tripod: geni.us/1a1af3 Manfrotto MTPIXI-B PIXI mini tripod: geni.us/87f7 If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects. Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching. See you next time. Pondguru
I'm not sure he'd be up for that as we have very different way of doing things but I'm sure in another version of reality it is happening right now, lol
FX5 and 6 are practically the same and the FX4 has one less tray. Depending on how the outlet is arranged I'd say maybe a 100 litre tank but even then the current will be quite strong.
I treat every piece of biohome like it's a baby squirrel. Very careful not to break any of the pieces. You: 10:26 11:16 11:20 11:24 12:20 12:26 I'm still gonna be OCD about it........
Mate this video has just saved me £200 I thought I was needing a new filter would have been the fx6 instead I pimped my fx5 and it has worked a treat thankyou
I have the FX5, so I purchased this kit back in January and set up the filter Feb 1. Four months later I cracked open the filter to clean it and it was extremely clean. All I had to do was squeeze out the foams in tank water, give the trays a quick rinse with the same water and put everything back together. The filter could have gone 6-8 months between cleanings. Talks about a return on investment with my time savings! The 75 gallon tank the FX5 is filtering has 18 Mbuna, mostly of larger size and I'm a chronic overfeeder. The filter floss on the top of the filter was dirty, but not horrible. The flow of my filter was the same as it was when I first installed this kit. I can't say enough good things about this filter upgrade! You have earned a customer for life. .
Received my Fluval FX6 Upgrade Kit and changed the sponges and filter media in my Filter. Thanks for the Bio Balls, I’ve also added Tetra Safe Start Plus to my tank, did a 60% Water Change. Thanks a Lot Richard.
I bought this setup and it’s the best investment in fish keeping I ever made. Crystal clear water and the best thing it’s healthy! Juwel Trigon 350 & FX6 (5kg Bio Ultimate Upgrade kit)
So, I took this advice and set up my FX6 exactly the same way except I added some crushed coral to the mix. Well, this was a real magical change as my water went from constantly struggling with mirly/cloudy water to crystal clear water and even my Cichlids are so much more actibe and colourful. Thanks so much for this!! Amazing
This is my filter of choice then, instead of Eheim 4+ 600. Thank you for starting me on this process of finding out a bit more. Based on yours and some other information the choice was pretty easy in the end!
Great video! Finally someone Who sets up this beast properly! I've got an fx5 and an fx6 running my 1000 litres aquascape tank. Both of them stand in front of diy co2 reactors of about 10 litres filled with bioballs, wich give me extra biological capacity. Had them for years now. Only once I've had to replace the impeller and bushings of the fx5. These babies are great! Greetings from Holland
Having 2 on a 1000 litre tank sounds good to me and it is a mark of their great build quality that all you've needed are a couple of minor parts in years of running. I only had a look online for other videos of an FX5 / FX6 set up after uploading this one and I can see why this video has got off to a good start as there is some really useless 'how to / set up' videos out there, lol I'm loving that I have the opportunity to do this series as it should help people searching for information on their particular filters to cut through the online vlogging nonsense and get to the facts which will help them and most importantly help their fish.
Nicely packed in there. That's guna work great. That message you sent me earlier about that mouse back in your shop. I went into my workshop to turn off the lights and my cat had left one on my bench for me! Made me chuckle lol.
I recieved my filter kit from Richard a few weeks back now. I am doing it in 4 stages as it is going into an already established aquarium. Week 1 I changed all the foams, week 2 I did the biohome in the bottom tray, week 3 the middle and next week the top. I am placing the biohome vertically as opposed to grabbing handfuls so I can fit more in. It takes longer but seems to work more effectively. Already I can see a huge difference in the water clarity and quality. Very happy with my purchase.
@@donniebrazis Couldn't be happier. Besides regular water changes, the set up is almost maintenance free. The water is clear and free of any ammonia, we used to have the occasional spike when introducing new fish. In a 600L tank this couldn't be better.
I'm not sure about that since I've got nothing online to compare this series of videos to but I very much appreciate the comment since I'm committed to building up a huge resource of filter information and it's quite an undertaking due to the time and cost investment. Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Great video thank you! I have a FX6 (modified as per your video) in my 250L cichlid tank (11 fish). It is also planted (anubias on driftwood). All this time I had fluval BioMax media in the top two trays and chemical filtration in the bottom tray. Never had issues with ammonia & nitrites but had high nitrates & phosphorus constantly hence why I’ve had chemical filtration which included nitrazorb/clearmax/eheim phosphate out etc but since it’s an annoying task to replace these every month, I’ve now made changes. I’ve filled the bottom two trays with Seachem Pond Matrix and the top tray still has fluval BioMax. Ive also put in some pond matrix in two small media bags sitting under the gravel. I’ve also added seachem stability to introduce anaerobic bacteria (and will do for the next 7 days as per instructions). Do you think I can get anaerobic bacteria growing soon with this set up given the FX6 is a very high flow unit? Also with the absence of a phosphate pad/eheim phosphate out, how do I keep it just enough for the plants? Or do I introduce more plants to tackle that? Thanks!
I'm one of those guy that asked about the fx6 filter. Thank you for making the video. One thing is that the intake has a huge open area for a sponge. I placed one in mine and did it very similar to you except for the upgraded foam pads... I will upgrade it soon.
I made the exact same setup before you made this video. Mine was in 2017. 😃👌 Apparently we agree on most filters. About 95% actually. Because I have used over 40 different filters. And I have watched ALL your Pimp my filter videos. 🤝 Strange that not more people understand how and why this is necessary. They instead use just the 1 pound crappy biomedia that fluval sends, and buys another Fx6 to the same tank. And they still have less biological media with 2 as they come in the box, than 1 used like this. So they waste money on 45w extra electricity and they have another one to hide another one to clean and last but not least, more media is a lot cheaper then getting another cannister!!!! Crazy. I tried to help people with these Filters in many videos. But my channel is small, therefore my "nolage" is less. That is how many people think atleast. 😄 The more subs, the better fishkeeper or filters and light expert. Which of course is not the case...
Man I have to think if you need more than an FX6, it may be better, and cheaper to go with a sump. A lot of people shy away from sumps because of noise....but there are ways to make sumps as quiet as a can.
Just got one of these second hand and went right to your video to figure out how to setup the inside after watching fluval video on how to connect. Keep the great work up m8!
Thank you. I have been waiting for the FX6 Video. I am currently running 2 FX6s with almost the same set up. Guess I'll be changing out the course pads next clean out for your course/med mix. I have Biohome Ultimate in 1 and I have crushed lava rock in the other. Thanks again for taking the time to do these videos. Keep up the great work.
No worries and I'm glad you like the videos - I know the series will never get crazy views since the videos are very specific and niche but it's about building up a base of information people can freely access (there is a woeful percentage of videos on RUclips which have any use at all so I am seeking to improve that situation, lol)
So incredibly happy to have found you!! I have a 3' Black Pacu. She's 26 years old, and all I can tell you is that this girl wants to live! Terrible water quality for most of her life, not for the lack of trying, and just adore her. She's been in a 500 gallon tank, ( big blue bucket, lol). But still not nearly big enough for her. I want this girl to live until she's 40, and have a beautiful environment from here on. Love Bonnie Boo. Healthy environment first, then maybe building her a bigger tank? I hope so. 🙏 P.s. Be careful of what you buy for your kids! 😳😅 lol. Going to keep watching your videos, and thank you SO Much!! 😁 So Appreciative, Kristin Mestyan
Been a month since I had this set up all running. Have to say my water readings are spot on. And the water looks like glass most of the time. Have stocked it with roughly 50 small community fish ( mollies guppy tetra dwarf gourami & corydoras ) introduced over 2 weeks. Filter is handling it very well. Water readings back that up.
Fantastic video, I am just in the process of starting up again in the hobby after a 4year brake and the fx6 is on the list with a 360l tank of discus . I will be following your advice and pimping the filter ...
That should give you around 1.5kg per 100 litres which should achieve a full cycle. There is a video on RUclips from Aquarium Adventures showing an FX6 on a 500 litre discus tank (1kg per 100 litres) which achieved a full cycle in 4.5 months so it is possible with less than the recommended 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres for a discus tank.
I actually run a sump with my Discus tank at the moment - but did for a long time run a FX5 (practically identical to FX6) with my old tank (350l). The Discus were fine with the flow rate - and if you are concerned, it's fairly easy to fit a spray bar or similar to diffuse the flow
Just "Pimped" my FX6 today with this technique... Except I used the Fluval BioMedia. Can't wait to get this going to see the difference. Thank you for the video!
Great video! Why did you split coarse and medium? I’m thinking 1st tray coarse. 2nd medium. 3rd fine foam. The polishing on top of first center into bio home ultimate. I have no facts behind this. What do you think of my idea? Thank you! Keep the vids coming!
I to think that the way pond guru has put the medium and coarse is not efficuent.If you check how the water pass into the tank, putting them orizontally ,seems more logical.... Another way is using a pre-filter outside the can, and fill with media even the foam trays ;)
Just to resurrect a dead comment, the fx6 is designed to spin the water up around the outside edges (the foams on the outside), and them spill it over the top and down the center column. So, the idea is that a course and medium combo allow for both relatively quick water flow. The fine pad at the top then catches whatever muck is left. The idea is to keep water flow going relatively fast.
@@uncreative54 Exactly. I did the same as Richard said + at the top I have a finner foam before the polishing pad and after 2 months my biohome is still really clean.
Thanks for the great info. Just got an fx6 and wanted to see this first. Also saw comment about waterconditoners. Guess I’ll stick w the api and ditch the prime. Thanks so much
He always looks like he's just about to smile, but never actually does...like fighting back a smurk at all times lol. Great Info though, much appreciated!
@Horse I have heard of this elsewhere. have you did this with a fx6? I'm curious to know how you configured it, if so. I thought that for the bcb process to work properly you need a very slow filtering process?
I love the FX filters, they may not have the best amount of space for media but It's still sufficient and the large amount of foam, large strainer and high flow rate is truly amazing for keeping the water clear. I always used to use Eheim canisters as they generally have greater media capacity but as far as mechanical filtration goes, they just don't seem to cut it for the messier fish I keep like my green chromides.
Yes the FX filters (and fluval filters in general) always seem to be good at the mechanical side and have adequate provision for biological media but are never outstanding in that department.
Are you able to try out the flow rate of the FX6 by taking in water from one tank and filling up a different tank? That would be a entertaining video, not to mention the huge amount of useful information.
@@unogazzy84 That sponge is too much/too fine. Just do as I do. Keep original sponge on the sides. But pack the middle without dividers. And keep one of their black bumpy sponge up top. Rest Biological .I have several videos on it.
I appreciate you doing these vids and telling us the problems. I've watched all of them on filtration. If you had an FX6 and put a pre-filter canister on it for mechanical filtration could you load the FX6 entirely with media then as you talked of before? How much media might it then hold?
Yes I can't really see much difference between the FX5 and FX6 - they both hold the same stuff - great filters. BTW I think I got the size of your tank wrong in a previous comment, I was thinking of Nathan from Simply Shrimps as he has a 500 litre tank, lol
Water travels upward through the outer foam chambers and flows over the top into the center media trays, correct? So why not keep the course foam in the bottom tray, medium foam in middle tray, fine foam in top tray and polyfill on top of upper tray media?
the water can travel trough the circular foam over the whole height of the filter. the idea is that it travels from outer circle to inner circle, up and back down through the middle circle
The wate travel’s through the outside straight to the bottom comes up through the coarse filter foam then back through the fine foam then bio and then finally Chem.
(my other channel) That is good to hear and as long as the filter(s) are suitably sized for the tank and stock (and you're not using seachem prime which starves the bacteria) they should deliver great results.
@@frankiefingerz8047 Anything else will be fine - I always recommend API stress coat as it doesn't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. There is more information on the Q&A page of my FilterPro website www.filterpro.co.uk and I made a video specifically on this issue here: ruclips.net/video/1YCtMYZQlig/видео.html and there is some great comments in the comment section there from people who have switched conditioners. There are also some great comments on a post I made in the 'community' tab on my channel here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxFdgRRt6GxA1o3ffDzsF5dbOaB5xAuoFX Hope that helps.
If you cut the foams into 2 rather than have them same length as the official fluval foams they don't block off some of the fins, the fluval ones have that semicircular cutout so that this is avoided. Also can I ask if you have tried replacing with layers of blue and green foams rather than black and blue as the black ones are really coarse, I think they are probably coarser than the fluval ones so don't offer much trapping of debris. I'm wondering if the green is too fine or not?
i would suggest filling a 3" pipe 10' in length, packed full with the biohome ultimate media to give maximum water to media contact as the water flows down the pipe. Instead of water flowing over the media, water is essentially flowing through the media like a river for maximum nitrate absorption.
I have been waiting for this since you have started the series and teased on instagram. i already have the bihome but was curious how you were going to set up the foam blocks. What is the total thickness of the foam you have sandwiched together?
It is around 1.75" and each foam is around 1.25 by itself but they can join together quite well. You could even use a coarse and medium flat foam but they would need to be thinner since they don't knit together like the bumpy foams do.
Two of the in daisy chain, the first one comes from the tank full of sponge then linked from the outlet to the inlet to the second one full of bio which then goes back to the tank, you could even run the tank off the second one, just take out the impeller in the first one
Stock this filter comes with the outer foams you showed, two medium pads, and a fine pad. They put the fine pad at the bottom to protect the motor. Are you not worried about protecting your motor from the pellets you used? Aside from that, won’t the water only travel through the course foam and skip the medium foam with your setup? (Well until the course gets saturated and the medium becomes the path of least resistance) Edit - I took apart my filter yesterday and looked at the paths and it does force it to flow sideways through the filters. That said, after going from course to medium don’t you now having it then going from medium to course then course to medium... if it got past the first medium, future course filters wouldn’t have any effect. So shouldn’t you be doing a few course foams and then switching to your medium foams in the middle to top rings?
I see what you are saying. I placed the Black filter at the bottom of the trays that holds the media to keep any stray stuff from dropping into the motor. I've used this method since I've had the filter (4 years this month) and have never had any problems. I can only assume that since he's using such large media, it's no concern.
Your 100% right I used his red bio media without any kind of sponge at the bottom try and after inspection I found loads of red sand bits at the bottom of my canister and in the motor unit
Richard, Best video I have run across yet to explain the best way to set up the FX6. I bought an FX6 for my new 75g tank that will be a tropical tank. I have always run more filters than most, but I knew even with this filter I would want another as well. Looks like I will order another FX6 and have no worries now. However, I am concerned if running two FX6’s will be too much flow for a 75
You can never have too much filtration on a tank but flow rate could be an issue for species which don't like a heavy flow so if you have angels, discus etc. which do not live in a flowing current then a spray bar may be better. Actual flow from filters is always about half what the manufacturer promises by the time pipes and media, foams etc. are added so I wouldn't worry too much. I'm glad you enjoyed the video - thanks for watching.
I been watching some of these pimp my filter videos and think i did learn some from this, so first big thanks for sharing I am a bit confused, i the video about the Fluval 206 Canister Filter (ruclips.net/video/tcwFy1OtAPE/видео.html) you put in 2 x 500g biohome iltra and says this can do a full circle on tanks uptil 800 liters, in this video you put in 5 KG of biohome and says it will do a full cicle on tanks uptil 500 liters. So i do suspect some calculations went wrong or maybe expirence has changed the input for these calculations.
@@frankvisler9596 He said "a hundred" liters. I know his accent made it hard to hear but if you go to the 206 video and turn on captions, he did say " a hundred liters" not "eight". So that means that 1 kg is at least enough for around 100 liters.
Pondguru yep ordered a load of biohome off ya just before Christmas u wasn't entirely sure how they setup as no trays come with it .. all designed to be loose but showed ya pics .. decided on 3 course of sponge on bottom and bagged up the media .. had 2 fx6 on my 8ft and was cleaning monthly.. changed to the eheim and now cleaning every 4-5 months ..stocking of tank is no different
@@CichlidVibes no i know a well balanced tank can run without a filter. But when it comes to big tanks with a heavy bioload nothing match The eheim 2260
Didn’t use a 25% coupon on it while on sale? Should be cheaper than $249. 4 months ago there was a glitch where you stack 15%, 20% and 25% while fx6 was on sale for $249 making it less than $139
Excellent video and I'm going with your recommended changes for my FX5 to reduce nitrates. Even frequent water changes in the 90 g. is not bringing the nitrate level below 100 ppm. I have some large cichlids, about 20 inches total and minimize feeding. Hopefully the change leads to full cycle. I'm not sure if the change needs to be phased, biohome tray 1 followed by two and three over time or all at once. I want to ensure there is no ammonia spike. Feedback on this would be helpful. By the way, after price shopping, cost of biohome ultimate (5 lbs.) was $78 and the foam filters (2 sets of 3, course, medium and fine) was $34.
That seems more reasonable but I'm not sure how that compares to English £ as our currency is in the toilet, lol Yes any plans to totally upgrade a filter on a mature tank would be done gradually over a couple of months on a filter the size of an FX6 / FX5 so maybe change the foams in the first week, wait 1-2 weeks then change the top tray, leave another 2-3 weeks then do middle tray and leave 2-3 weeks then do bottom tray. Most people upgrade much more quickly than that without any problems but I always advise taking it slow.
I run my FX6 on a 125 high tech and it has performed flawlessly. I actually went and bought the Fluval branded medium (blue) filter that goes at the top of basket 1. Has worked well for a year with the original pad and 3 cleanings. You did teach me a trick using fingers through the windows to properly seat the foam (thank you). I also bought 1000g of pumice media that completely fill tray 3 while varied bio/chemical media fill tray 2. I reserved tray 1 for all of the filter pads. Question: How long can filter pads last before they should be changed? I clean my filter pads every few months and they seem to be holding up, but I also don't want them failing and clogging the pump.
Love this series of videos 👍 had a fx6 on my old 250ish litre African Cichlid tank few years ago, had it set up similar with biohome ultimate as this, worked great for me. Using the biogravel in my two new tanks (got off your ebay shop) Juwel filter and a AquaNano 30. Great filter media 👍
(my other channel) As long as you have a suitably sized filter which is well set up with good media (e.g. Biohome Ultimate) there should be no problem achieving a full cycle as long as you're not using a conditioner which messes with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (e.g. seachem prime). There is no lie in Nature but there are plenty of lies in paid-for $cience.
With enough filtration you will get a full cycle no matter what the tank and stock is - what water conditioner do you use? Something as simple as using a damaging conditioner can be the difference between a full cycle and normal (high nitrate) test results.
Hi there if I may ask, fluval conditioner and cycle are good to use and get a full cycle? I already modified my fx6 with the foams and biohome ultimate
@@andremarques4900 (my other channel) The Fluval products don't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate so are fine to use. As long as you have a suitable amount of good media for the volume of tank and stock and there is nothing holding the bacteria back (e.g. seachem prime) then it's all good. You can find loads of useful advice regarding filtration and bacteria on the Q&A page of my website www.filterpro.co.uk
@ThousandYardStare I think I'm good. Fx6 with your upgrade in a 240L tropical aquarium. Just finished assembly it. Anxiously waiting to get the cycling started
Thanks Richard another great video. You cleared up a few things with the fx6 that I was not sure of. With out Google and RUclips we would still be in the dark ages.
I'm really passionate about making videos with something educational in them so I'm glad you appreciate them - I totally agree it is difficult to find useful information online with all the nonsense clogging it up, lol
I watched your video and setup my two fx4 this way. I was able to get 6.1 lbs of biohome ultimate in each filter for a total of 6kg of media. Running a 125 gallon with 10 "large goldfish so I hope I am using enough media. Thanks again
125 (US?) gallons is approx. 475 litres and a goldfish tank could take 2kg per 100 litres (26 US gallons) so a heavily stocked goldfish tank would need 9kg-10kg to achieve a full cycle. You'll not get that amount of media in 2 x FX4 but would in 2 x FX6 - however you don't say how many goldfish you have in the tank but if they are 10" I'm assuming it is either 1 or 2 so should be OK with current filtration.
Thanks for the reply. I have 10 pretty large goldfish and currently have to do water changes every 4 days of at least 50% to keep ahead of nitrates. Looks like larger filtration is in my future.
Yes it is like lifting a giant tortoise but it can be drained prior to being moved using the bottom drain feature (if you attach a pipe and lead it to a drain)
@@leo2o915 I've had it up and running for 3 weeks now with Richards suggestions in this video and it's perfect. It can be drained before moving so it's easier to move than my old one. The handles are also comfortable to use.
@@zeeinajar I set mine up the same the only difference is I added another fine sponge on the bottom tray under the biohome and also added filter floss to the top tray
Have you tried a whole house water filter cartridge on the intake instead of the strainer. It fits the hose almost perfectly. Glue a piece of rubber to one end and you are ready to go. I like the carbon filter because I like the black color. They will filter thousands of gallons before it needs replacement, cost $7.39 on Amazon. It will keep the Fluval a lot cleaner for a lot longer. Hope to see a video about it. Keep up the good work.
Hi Pondguru love your videos and the products are 1st class. Thinking of getting one of these but I noticed at 7:28 you say the water comes from the bottom to the top. As you can see straight through from the top to the bottom. Surely this will bypass the sponge filters? TIA
The trays fit into the bottom of the filter to cap off the bottom of the trays and the top of the filter caps off the top tray. Therefore water has to travel through the outer foams before getting to the part behind the foams where it travels up then to the top of the top tray before heading down through the trays. Hope that makes sense.
Since it flows from bottom to top dont you think the water passes through the foam vertically? I kinda doubt it goes laterally and then up. So each tray should have its own size foams not combined. Coarse then medium then a fine on top. Centers can be all bio media.
No worries, that's why I love making videos as it feels great to share any useful information - more importantly it helps fish all over the world live a happy long life.
i'm glad i'v picked up on your videos i for one have had my filters packed the wrong way around [due to manufacturer advise] i do like the result of bio ultimate so that's on the cards this week
Just a note. I am using two of the FX6 filters on my 200 gallon Discus/mixed inhabitant tank. I also use Biohome ultimate media and I HAVE to have a fine filter as the last stage, because the Biohome constantly sheds sand/grit and will ruin the pump. I learned this the hard way by destroying two pumps in my FX6.
I wash/rinse the biohome at least 4 times before I even use it in the filters; it comes with a ton of sand/detritus in it, so it HAS to be washed/rinsed thoroughly before use. I have had this setup for about 2 1/2 years and have tried various setups, and the only one that keeps the pumps from getting sand/grit in them, is to have a fine filter as the very last layer to trap that fine sand/silt. I have to tell you that your channel is by far the most useful and factual on RUclips. The whole reason I went with TWO FX6s, is your insistence that you can't have too much filtration and that manufacturers ratings are bollocks! I have 18 Discus, 20 Yellow Tetras, 20 Cochus Tetras, 20 Buenos Aires Tetras, 12 Corydoras, 4 Plecos, 25 Ember Tetras, 15 Viper shrimp, 100 nerite snails and the tank is massively planted. Cheers!
@@The80shilling Having a fine pad last as well as in first tray isn't a problem if you're worried about sand getting into the pump but cleaning the media should only require a simple shake of the tray in a bucket of water - I should have been more specific with the question the first time - how do you clean the media during maintenance? Sounds like you have a nice tank set up there.
I need help in understand my theory on the flow thing. 1) the flow will only impact the exterior of the media unless the media is so porous that is allows the pressure of the flow to be retain through it. 2) media that absorbs water will retain it in a much more static state than the flow deep in its composition. So the deeper pores will automatically experience a low flow state that will be favorable to an anaerobic condition because the aerobic bacteria will consume the oxygen rich water before it reaches the low flow (virtually stagnate) area of the media. I use two FX6 on a heavily overstock (confession) African Cichlid 120g tank with sand and Texas Holey rock. Running about three months now and well established. I set up the filters before learning of Bio home using Matrix and Marine Pure products. I am intrigued through especially, by your Super Bio Gravel in following my theory noted above. Thanks for your videos!!!
Hey ! I am new to the hobby and thanx to you I got some idea about nitrogen cycle . I have a request for you , if you could give out a full mechanism about building a sump filter . Basically about how to set it's inflow and pumping out of water calculations so that there may be smooth functioning of it ..
Not sure about the flow calculations as that will vary depending on what the sump is being used for but I will be getting a sump built soon specifically for filming with so will cover anything relevant (and I'll try not to forget to include stuff) there. There will likely be a video for freshwater and one for a marine set up.
Pondguru yea that will be great for people like me ! Actually the main question on my mind is how to decide the flow of the water from the sump filteration , I saw a video recently stating the basic thumb rule " sump should be able to cycle 6 times the water held in aquarium , within an hour " is it so Also your best position of different media for best biological cycle .. It would be a great video for people like me who wants to invest time and do something ourselves for our hobby
I have never been a proponent of a certain flow rate and turnover rate as the quality of the mechanical and biological filtration are the most important things but sumps will generally offer a better turnover rate than a canister filter and are way more adaptable to a certain tank situation. I just picked up a sump from my mate Andy yesterday and although it is very small it should be a good start point for a video on sumps - just waiting for heater, skimmer, filter socks etc. to arrive from various parts of internet land then I can film it.
Pondguru okay .. I hope that there might be some useful info. for freshwater fishkeepers as well 😅😅 coz I think we need not need skimmers n all for out sumps
My opinion is that the water outlet is blocked by the spons now. See how the oem has a half circle cuted out? you need to do the same so the spons is not pushed to front and blocking the water outlet section. Otherwise water will not go where it should go and can reduce the flow.
That is one I have no experience of unfortunately and online information doesn't offer much useful with regard to flow direction or how it could be altered.
Thanks for this, been anticipating seeing this video since you first mentioned it. I've held back using my third FX6 until I'd seen you set it up. An order will be following soon! Bill
@7:05 I tried this but can tell you if you are near max length on the hoses (Like I am) and you are using an FX2 your flow rate will suffer dramatically. Assume FX6 pump can handle it.....
Glad to see the video getting ready to do my fx5 filters but I got the 6ft rolls which I'll cut and and use the course and the blue filters after I cut the rolls to size should have the same results only difference is it was cheaper for me to buy the filters by the rolls and cut to fit that way I have plenty for more filtration to use in my fx5 for future cleaning.
Yes the FX4 is a little (big) powerhouse and I have a video on that one coming up soon too - set up is exactly the same except it only has 2 trays so holds 3kg media.
No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful. I do have a small sump to shoot a couple of videos on (one for fresh water and one for salt water) but haven't had the time to make those videos yet - I'm still about 20 videos behind in this series, lol So much editing needed, so little time.
Guru. I paused at 1:42 and noticed that the bottom of the tray is a solid piece of plastic. So that means water goes throight the coarse and medium but only the fine pad in tje first tray. So this means the other 2 trays serve no purpose because it gets filtered at the top OR water passes the same way through the other w trays meaning that there is no fine filtration in the 2nd and 3rd tray sort of rendering the bio home useless. NOTE: i don't own a fx filter so i can't say for sure but that meand you need a fine pad for the other 2 trays as well
The inside is closed off from the outside ring. the only way water can flow in the inside is from the top down. all water has to flow through the filter on the top layer.
how so? are you assuming 100% of the water is able to flow from the bottom filter only?even if this were true, water flows through the path of least resistance. if that was the case then as the first one fills up with debris, then the second filter would be come less restricted, and then the first and second would fill allowing the third to become less restricted. making use of all three filter... at some point. perhaps not at the start but at some point the degree of resistance should balance between all 3 filters allowing all of them to be used.
That is an interesting take on how to set up this filter. I don't trust the side foams on the side that much, I always put more medium and fine foams in the top tray and one more fine in the bottom just to protect the motor.
Yes if you're worried about any particles being pumped out by the pump you could go with a medium / coarse pad in the bottom of the bottom tray but too many fine pads can slow the flow down, increase wear on the pump and cause extra maintenance.
I’m no fan of the outside foam section either.. it’s more like a half done prefilter. I’m sure the swirling allows the foams to catch some crap but the area is mostly just bypassed and the top of the first internal tray takes the brunt of the work.. since the capacity is semi limited I just place my fine pad right on top which makes it easy to change out and fill the rest full of media.. I do cheap a little though.. I cut the fine pad to the diameter of the entire canister and punch the holes for the pipes.. the result is I get two passes through the pad. Once as it comes over the perimeter foam blacks then again as it starts flowing coward through the biomedia. I then use the red tray divider in the top packed with poly fill and Purigen and chemipure for extra fine filtering density and then other half and bottom two trays are all bio media. I replace the thin fine pad every two weeks and the poly monthly with a proper cleaning.. I’ve spent months toying with different setups to maximize mechanical wo giving up the small for size bio capacity.. this is the best solution I’ve found.. I played with putting finer foams and even poly fil in place of the foam blocks and it seemed to just increase the bypass. Best I can tell from the design nothing more then corse foams will work on the outside.
How does the water test with regard to nitrate? I get so many people saying that they can't achieve a full cycle when they use either purigen or chemipure then it develops naturally when they remove that so I'm always asking people who use it if they have managed to achieve a full cycle as that shows the bacteria is working properly in a filter. So far I haven't heard of one case where a full cycle is achieved when purigen is used in a filter but there has to be one somewhere.
Tbh I honestly can’t say if I’ve got a full cycle or not.. heavy stock would be an understatement in this case.. I tried for a long time experimenting on a 60g with an adult yellow ear slider as well as 30-40 juvie and close to a few adult cichlids lol. I did the ballpark math and based on the filters and the stocking I determined I’d never actually see any real results from a full cycle unless I managed to get it from a sump or very deep sandbed which is impossible with cichlids and turtles.. (fish are now in a 125 and turtle alone in the 60 FYI) right before changing tans I was actually seeing close to 80-100ppm daily nitrates.. so you can see how it would be very very hard for me to determine if I was getting a full cycle.. I was doing daily water changes of 90% to maintain a quality tank for a long time. I honestly could’ve moved them much sooner but used about a years time to try and experiment with many different filter setups. I’ve even gone as far as using reactors with reduced flow to reduce o2 and entice nitrate reduction. As for what I have seen and experienced.. Purigen paired with chemipure blue did greatly reduce nitrates by simply removing organics before being broken down. The single best option I found was skipping corse and medium foams and going straight to fine pads or polyfil and just replacing them weekly. This seemed to be the single best option and best way to remove organics before being broken down. As for filtration on the old 60 at one point I was running an fx6, c360, reactor, and zoomed 511. Fully packed with media setups I put the filtered flow turnover at around 15x per hour bare minimum and conservative. Even since moving the fish to a 125 running the exact same filtration setup I’m getting roughly 30ppm weekly nitrates. Most of the actual biomedia is matrix or pond matrix(sorry it’s cheaper the biohome lol) mostly the pond version to get larger denser pieces which should be better suited for a full cycle.. roughly 12 liters total plus the reactor which holds maybe another liter at best.. I also run prefilter sponges in 20ppi on the intakes which allows me to remove most of the mechanicals inside the filters and max the biomedia capacities.. I run Ehiem biomech in the bottom of every canister as much as possible even inside the intake ramp of the fx6 which I will admit isn’t east to properly do cause of its design.. I’ve even gone as far as using small bioballs in place of the corse pads on the fx6 which I thought would be a great option but my fine pad took way more brunt. Tried poly as well and even still cause of the circular flow I got much more gunk on the top fine pad in the fx6 which I’ve mostly used for most experiments as the c360 is what I consider my main filter cause it hold a ton more media. If you look at your older “why your filter isn’t cycled” video you’ll see I recently asked another question about using zeolight after biological filtration or in a secondary filter to remove ammonia which in turn should reduce nitrates wo overly effecting bacterial colonies on a seasoned tank. As I said there I’m really really getting to the point where I think we are doing everything backwards by trying to remove nitrates instead of ammonia. Without ammonia there is no nitrates. The issue I’ve run into here in researching a proper filtration setup is most systems are way to small with way to low a flow rate to be effective or way to large for a per tank setup as they are normally whole house or comercial sized unites.. I’m thinking like an rodi sized unit that has low micron prefilter and ion charged ammonia pleated filter and an ion charges nitrite pleated filter just in case.. again the issue is to achieve enough flow to properly filter a tank you run into systems way to large to be cost effective for tanks. I’ve seen a few people who use this with well water setups as they already have most of the needed items to filter house water and simply plumb tanks Into their house systems and add a few things.. I like nature and it’s uses.. but at the same time I like watching my fish instead of working on their tanks.. removing ammonia and eliminating the cycle entirely imop is a more efficient way of filtering and with current tech is able to be done just the demand to build properly sized systems isn’t yet there case we are all still stuck in a 60yo mindset of tank filtration utilizing full cycles.. I should add I have 8 freshwater tanks in my house lol.. many are planted to some extend and as such im able to control nitrates to 5-10ppm constant values forever. I’ve got an overly stocked community tank with a lot of hornwort that helps reduce that tank to 10ppm weekly accumulation on a 50 fish tank load In a 55g tank lol.. Much to your credit and your videos I’ve become very versed in proper filter setup to maximize my tank capacities and stock more fish with much larger bioload then most would ever think of trying. A lot of my joy is actually from trying to solve filtration issues to reduce maintained tbh.. but many are Oscar and cichlid tanks which prevent the plant life assistance.. I’ve tried with several native species and they just destroy them in short time which increases bioload as the plant matter has to be filtered as well.. I value your every opinion as it’s one of the things that has gotten me where I am in the hobby.. that said.. I don’t have a fish room I have tanks in almost every room and in larger rooms several as decorations... water changes are a chore as I have to individually do each tank and at least half are out of reach of my 50’ python setup and require old school bucket by bucket syphon and refilling.. so much of my time is spent trying to maximize every tanks filtration in effort to best reduce water change needs.. That said I do have water changes spread out to a basic one tank everyday routine so it’s not that big a hassle.. fee minutes everyday when I get home before I settle in makes it much easier then spending an entire day doing al tanks at once.. I’m also semi versed in saltwater and love them for their ability to full cycle much easier with just use of rocks. It baffles me that I can’t utilize the same principles in freshwater systems and get similar results.. I’ve tried all kinds of rocks and it’s all wasted money really in terms of getting nitrate reduction.. I’ve even gone through phases of moderately salting appropriate tanks thinking that the salinity had much to d with things.. I’m sure it does but even brackish cichlid or guppy tank can’t achieve what you can with a reef rank in terms of filtration. Tried sumps with massive amounts of high nutrient absorbing floating plants.. (never duckweed mind you as I never wanted to deal with trying to get rid of it later lol) high flow, low flow, any amount of over filtration I’ve through most of it with freshwater systems and in a heavy stocking I’ve yet to see anything that can drastically reduce water changes to the point I would say 100% they work. And I test my water daily on most sinks keeping a log so detailed as to I know when I’ll need to change water based on what foods I’m feeding.. FYI to anyone who’s made it this far reading.. stay away from any type of pleco wafer or algae wafer unless you like high nitrates and changing water.. they are the absolute worst foods possible. Don’t believe me.. take a tank uncycled wo any fish drop one wafer in and watch how fast your tank cycles and how high the levels will go.
Damn it I have tried replying to this twice and had my kitten jump onto the screen knocking off the comment both times, lol I think you're in the UK as you're working in litres and have hornwort as a native plant? so feel free to ring me any time since my short term memory keeps letting me down by the time I have scrolled up and down a page I have forgotten what has been said or asked in a super long comment. My phone number is 07772848730 With regard to a full cycle (and nitrate level) I'd say for a normal community tank if you had between 0ppm - 10ppm and small weekly water changes to remove fish waste from tank you could consider that cycled as an average tank will sit between 40ppm - 60ppm after a week - a heavily stocked tank (e.g. cichlids, predator, goldfish) would generally have much higher nitrate so a level of between 10ppm - 20ppm could be considered a success but in all those situations people regularly report that the nitrate reads consistently zero when a suitable sized filter is set up with biohome (usually biohome ultimate in canisters) - that's with or without plants but almost always when filtration is simple, consisting of mechanical, biological and either carbon or charcoal for chemical. Is the 125 and 60 in gallons or litres? I thought it was litres but may be gallons. If you have 13 litres of matrix in a 125 gallon system and nitrates are still 30ppm I'd say it was working but only just, probably due to the reactor creating more favorable conditions for anaerobic bacteria but since the matrix is so dense it would probably be better to go for a much smaller size in the reactor - 30ppm is still a good result from matrix. Seachem state it needs a flow of no more than 50 US gallons per hour to enable it to work and with that low flow in a decent size filter you could use any tightly packed media to create anaerobic conditions but canisters tend to have much higher flow rates - probably why they are considered to be nitrate factories as most of the activity is aerobic, especially when they're set up just as they come from manufacturer with plastics and limited media in them.
Thank you for the clear explanations and equally clear demonstration. I watch all of your videos and seem to learn from even those which cover other subjects. I have a 125 gallon freshwater I'm setting up. I have an fx6 and an older fx5. Is it possible to run these two filters in series? I'm thinking of the fx5 as a 50% mechanical with the rest biohome ultimate then the fx6 as all biological. With both pumps running, of course. This would give me nearly 10 lbs of biological filtration. Thanks for the earlier post regarding using proper dechlorinators to not harm the good critters. Cheers, Kevin
Groovy - I'm glad you found the video useful and apologies for not getting it out sooner. It only takes an hour or so to film a video but getting time to edit it into something watchable takes me many hours over a few days as I don't get much spare time, lol. I have another 6-7 videos filmed and so little time to edit them but hope to have them out soon.
Great video mate very informative can you please please show us how to pimp a freshwater sump I’m fed up with trying to clean filter socks properly thank you Richard...👍🏻
I will be getting one made in the next few weeks for filming purposes, no worries. The basic process is the same with regard to the order of filtration but a sump offers much more scope for personalizing the filter to the tank conditions.
What does it take to kill the beneficial bacteria inside of the canister? Turning it off? Types of meds? Might be over thinking but I feel it’s good information to know because I don’t know
Untreated tap water. Read medicines carefully - some do kill bacteria, some don't. Most of the bacteria is aerobic so turning flow off will eventually kill the colony, but it would take a long time! (48 hours+). Chemical treatments for ammonia locking etc, depends which one. Never clean the media in tap water - use tank water being drained during the change.
(my other channel) I have links to my website in the video description and the pinned comment but these sort of foams should be available from any decent pond supplies retailer.
@@MarkAliaFlorezHunt That's strange - the links to my website have a coarse and medium foam option as well as a fine pad option or an option to buy all 3. www.filterpro.co.uk (Foams page) On Amazon I've no idea what people are offering since I currently don't sell on that site.
Great video and topic, i run 1 of these and an eheim on my 9foot saltwater, impressive filters and easy water top ups and sand cleaning attachment, cheers 👍
Yes they have a few great features - it concentrated on the actual filtering side of things but even the handy dials on the top so you can check when you last cleaned it is a nice useful feature.
Hi ya. I’ve just got your upgrade for the fx6. Got a couple questions if you don’t mind. Where do I put the bacteria balls? Also I use purigen and want to use it in the fx6 to. Would it be ok to put it under the trays Just as the water goes into the pump? Keep up the great videos Thank you for your time
Thanks for the order. The bacteria balls just go in with the filter media so they're in direct contact with it - they will slowly dissolve and release good bacteria into the system. If you want to use purigen it would ideally go after the biological media so the bottom tray would be good but failing that you could use it in the space under the trays as long as it doesn't get drawn into the pump intake.
Love your knowledge on filters. Blows my mind every single time. What are your thoughts on the ocean free Hydra range? I'm currently looking at the filtron 1800 for my new 100 gallon aquarium. Currently have the hydra40 internal for my 20gal
The Hydras were just coming out when I was winding my shop down so I didn't have the opportunity to test them - however since then I have had contact with many people who have used them and the opinions seem to be very mixed, ranging from about 20% saying that they noticed a difference to water tests to about 50% saying that they haven't noticed a difference (presumably since they didn't test the water) and around 30% saying that they din't work. I think the science is sound behind them but I'm not sure how good they are as a long term solution - maybe I'm just old school but since I know that good 'traditional' mechanical and biological filtration will achieve a full cycle I stick with that as it is a one-time change which lasts for many years. How is the Hydra doing for you in the 20 gal?
My thinking was to run a filtron 1800 but use your method to pimp it out for full cycle filtration. There aren't many reviews on t be filtron range out there which is annoying. My hydra40 is brilliant. I love it. I couldn't tell you how good it is in terms of full cycle filtration but I can leave the filter for 6 months and the water stays crystal clear (tannins from the bog wood aren't nearly as bad either) and the fish are happy as larry. I've recently 're planted my tank and restocked. I'll be buying one in a few months. Can have a play with it if you want? Do your thing to it.
Yes I think the internal layout could do with a few changes as it is strange to have it hitting foams second. I've watched a couple of videos from OF Hydra and they don't mention anything about reducing nitrate so I'm wondering what their USP is - maybe that they allow the other processes to occur better? I'd certainly be interested in taking a look if you do get one and I promise not to make any (drilling) permanent changes to the filter, lol My email is sales@filterpro.co.uk so whenever you're ready just drop me a message and I'll get back to you with my address no worries.
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How to set a Fluval FX6 filter up for maxiumum efficiency.
Fluval FX6 Filter: geni.us/EQDjIBP
Fluval FX5 Filter (Ebay): ebay.to/2G2SIIz
Foams and Biohome Ultimate: www.filterpro.co.uk
Full kit to upgrade a Fluval FX6 or FX5 can be found on the 'Filter Kits' page of the FilterPro website: bit.ly/2LuRtl0
(FilterPro site has links to suppliers in other countries)
Flexible light used in video: geni.us/OUJDB
The Fluval FX6 is the friendly monster of the canister filter world and has a powerful pump, excellent mechanical filtration and decent provision for biological filtration.
However, since it 'only' holds around 5kg of biohome ultimate it is really suited to normally stocked tanks of up to 500 litres (132 US gallons) or heavily stocked tanks of up to 250 litres (66 US gallons) if you want to achieve a full cycle.
Note: If your FX6 is a new version it will have extra red trays which fit inside main trays - they are not needed unless you need to use one in bottom tray to separate carbon from filter media without using a mesh bag.
A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere.
Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome ultimate does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios:
(1 US gallon = 3.8 litres)
(1kg = 2.2 lbs)
Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres
Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres
Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres
Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
*Avoid using any water conditioner which claims to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (e.g. Seachem Prime) since that will severely limit the active population of beneficial bacteria and therefore prevent a full cycle.
All you need is a simple dechlorinator (e.g. API Stress Coat) to ensure that the water is safe for life and you never need to add more bacteria when the filter is properly set up since the vast majority of bacteria will be in the filter media (and is not removed during a water change).*
You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat.
Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity - If you have a filter you'd like me to feature in a video then please contact me on:
sales@filterpro.co.uk
07772848730 (Richard)
Anyone who sends a filter (UK only at present) will have it upgraded and returned to them for free and the only cost you will pay is how much it costs to ship it to me - I'm helping to boost your filter and the resulting videos will hopefully be useful to viewers all over the world so it's a win/win.
The following videos will be useful to anyone interested in learning more about filtration, bacteria and making the conditions for your fish as good as possible:
Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un
Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c
Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF
How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh
Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy
INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/
FILMING EQUIPMENT:
Panasonic HC-VX870 HD camcorder geni.us/3UwE
+Rode stereo microphone: geni.us/4OL
+Rode 'deadcat' mic cover: geni.us/1pmn
JVC Everio quad proof HD camcorder: geni.us/e09e
+Rode 'deadcat' mic cover (opened up and held between tripod and camera base) geni.us/dee24
Zomei Z666 tripod: geni.us/1a1af3
Manfrotto MTPIXI-B PIXI mini tripod: geni.us/87f7
If you've enjoyed this video please check out the playlists on my channel for hundreds more - on a variety of subjects.
Feel free to share or link any of my videos on facebook, twitter, forums etc. for the benefit of anyone you think may also enjoy watching.
See you next time.
Pondguru
This is a thing of beauty. You ever thought about doing a colab with King of DIY?
I'm not sure he'd be up for that as we have very different way of doing things but I'm sure in another version of reality it is happening right now, lol
What is the smallest tank I could use a FX6 on (before it causes a swirling effect)?
What is the difference between a fx6, fx5 and fx4?
FX5 and 6 are practically the same and the FX4 has one less tray. Depending on how the outlet is arranged I'd say maybe a 100 litre tank but even then the current will be quite strong.
I treat every piece of biohome like it's a baby squirrel. Very careful not to break any of the pieces.
You: 10:26
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I'm still gonna be OCD about it........
Mate this video has just saved me £200 I thought I was needing a new filter would have been the fx6 instead I pimped my fx5 and it has worked a treat thankyou
I have the FX5, so I purchased this kit back in January and set up the filter Feb 1. Four months later I cracked open the filter to clean it and it was extremely clean. All I had to do was squeeze out the foams in tank water, give the trays a quick rinse with the same water and put everything back together. The filter could have gone 6-8 months between cleanings. Talks about a return on investment with my time savings! The 75 gallon tank the FX5 is filtering has 18 Mbuna, mostly of larger size and I'm a chronic overfeeder. The filter floss on the top of the filter was dirty, but not horrible. The flow of my filter was the same as it was when I first installed this kit. I can't say enough good things about this filter upgrade! You have earned a customer for life. .
So glad i came across your channel you have gave me more understanding how to use my filter more efficiently
Received my Fluval FX6 Upgrade Kit and changed the sponges and filter media in my Filter. Thanks for the Bio Balls, I’ve also added Tetra Safe Start Plus to my tank, did a 60% Water Change. Thanks a Lot Richard.
I bought this setup and it’s the best investment in fish keeping I ever made. Crystal clear
water and the best thing it’s healthy! Juwel Trigon 350 & FX6 (5kg Bio Ultimate Upgrade kit)
So, I took this advice and set up my FX6 exactly the same way except I added some crushed coral to the mix. Well, this was a real magical change as my water went from constantly struggling with mirly/cloudy water to crystal clear water and even my Cichlids are so much more actibe and colourful. Thanks so much for this!! Amazing
Nice one - I'm glad it is working well for you.
Best of luck with the tank.
Which tray did you put the crushed coral in and how much did you use, if I might ask?
This is my filter of choice then, instead of Eheim 4+ 600. Thank you for starting me on this process of finding out a bit more. Based on yours and some other information the choice was pretty easy in the end!
Great video! Finally someone Who sets up this beast properly! I've got an fx5 and an fx6 running my 1000 litres aquascape tank. Both of them stand in front of diy co2 reactors of about 10 litres filled with bioballs, wich give me extra biological capacity.
Had them for years now. Only once I've had to replace the impeller and bushings of the fx5.
These babies are great!
Greetings from Holland
Having 2 on a 1000 litre tank sounds good to me and it is a mark of their great build quality that all you've needed are a couple of minor parts in years of running.
I only had a look online for other videos of an FX5 / FX6 set up after uploading this one and I can see why this video has got off to a good start as there is some really useless 'how to / set up' videos out there, lol
I'm loving that I have the opportunity to do this series as it should help people searching for information on their particular filters to cut through the online vlogging nonsense and get to the facts which will help them and most importantly help their fish.
Nicely packed in there. That's guna work great. That message you sent me earlier about that mouse back in your shop. I went into my workshop to turn off the lights and my cat had left one on my bench for me! Made me chuckle lol.
Your cat must have read the message too, lol
By far the best explanation on filtration I have seen. Very easy for anyone to understand
I recieved my filter kit from Richard a few weeks back now. I am doing it in 4 stages as it is going into an already established aquarium. Week 1 I changed all the foams, week 2 I did the biohome in the bottom tray, week 3 the middle and next week the top. I am placing the biohome vertically as opposed to grabbing handfuls so I can fit more in. It takes longer but seems to work more effectively. Already I can see a huge difference in the water clarity and quality.
Very happy with my purchase.
Are you still happy? I’m considering this system for a FX4. Doing it in stages like you show will get the new media time to seed. Thank you
@@donniebrazis Couldn't be happier. Besides regular water changes, the set up is almost maintenance free. The water is clear and free of any ammonia, we used to have the occasional spike when introducing new fish. In a 600L tank this couldn't be better.
These are the best aquarium filter information videos on the internet
I'm not sure about that since I've got nothing online to compare this series of videos to but I very much appreciate the comment since I'm committed to building up a huge resource of filter information and it's quite an undertaking due to the time and cost investment.
Thanks for watching and appreciating the videos.
Great video thank you! I have a FX6 (modified as per your video) in my 250L cichlid tank (11 fish). It is also planted (anubias on driftwood). All this time I had fluval BioMax media in the top two trays and chemical filtration in the bottom tray. Never had issues with ammonia & nitrites but had high nitrates & phosphorus constantly hence why I’ve had chemical filtration which included nitrazorb/clearmax/eheim phosphate out etc but since it’s an annoying task to replace these every month, I’ve now made changes. I’ve filled the bottom two trays with Seachem Pond Matrix and the top tray still has fluval BioMax. Ive also put in some pond matrix in two small media bags sitting under the gravel. I’ve also added seachem stability to introduce anaerobic bacteria (and will do for the next 7 days as per instructions). Do you think I can get anaerobic bacteria growing soon with this set up given the FX6 is a very high flow unit? Also with the absence of a phosphate pad/eheim phosphate out, how do I keep it just enough for the plants? Or do I introduce more plants to tackle that? Thanks!
I'm one of those guy that asked about the fx6 filter. Thank you for making the video. One thing is that the intake has a huge open area for a sponge. I placed one in mine and did it very similar to you except for the upgraded foam pads... I will upgrade it soon.
Sounds good - thanks for watching.
Love your posts I have a 800 litre tank with 2 fx6 one just for mechanical and the other packed full of biological works great
Y doing it too
I tried this out on my fx6 and I'm amazed by the transformation it's made , my water crystal clear and only cost me £12 for the foam .Thanks guru
No worries, it is the simple changes which often make the most visible difference so I'm glad you have noticed a benefit.
I made the exact same setup before you made this video. Mine was in 2017. 😃👌 Apparently we agree on most filters. About 95% actually. Because I have used over 40 different filters. And I have watched ALL your Pimp my filter videos. 🤝
Strange that not more people understand how and why this is necessary. They instead use just the 1 pound crappy biomedia that fluval sends, and buys another Fx6 to the same tank. And they still have less biological media with 2 as they come in the box, than 1 used like this. So they waste money on 45w extra electricity and they have another one to hide another one to clean and last but not least, more media is a lot cheaper then getting another cannister!!!! Crazy. I tried to help people with these Filters in many videos. But my channel is small, therefore my "nolage" is less. That is how many people think atleast. 😄
The more subs, the better fishkeeper or filters and light expert. Which of course is not the case...
I have to say this is one of the best videos I have watched on filtration. You really do make good sense of how the nitrogen cycle works.
I really love my FX6, its a true beast. I just wish they would make a "FX7" with 1-2 more tray so it would hold more biomedia 😉
Yes, what are they waiting for?
Man I have to think if you need more than an FX6, it may be better, and cheaper to go with a sump. A lot of people shy away from sumps because of noise....but there are ways to make sumps as quiet as a can.
Just got one of these second hand and went right to your video to figure out how to setup the inside after watching fluval video on how to connect. Keep the great work up m8!
This is Best FX6 filter setup out there I've ever came across..
Guess it's now time to pimp my FX6 .. 😉
Thanks mate for your Super work ..
Thank you. I have been waiting for the FX6 Video. I am currently running 2 FX6s with almost the same set up. Guess I'll be changing out the course pads next clean out for your course/med mix. I have Biohome Ultimate in 1 and I have crushed lava rock in the other. Thanks again for taking the time to do these videos. Keep up the great work.
No worries and I'm glad you like the videos - I know the series will never get crazy views since the videos are very specific and niche but it's about building up a base of information people can freely access (there is a woeful percentage of videos on RUclips which have any use at all so I am seeking to improve that situation, lol)
So incredibly happy to have found you!! I have a 3' Black Pacu. She's 26 years old, and all I can tell you is that this girl wants to live! Terrible water quality for most of her life, not for the lack of trying, and just adore her. She's been in a 500 gallon tank, ( big blue bucket, lol). But still not nearly big enough for her. I want this girl to live until she's 40, and have a beautiful environment from here on. Love Bonnie Boo. Healthy environment first, then maybe building her a bigger tank? I hope so. 🙏
P.s. Be careful of what you buy for your kids! 😳😅 lol. Going to keep watching your videos, and thank you SO Much!! 😁
So Appreciative, Kristin Mestyan
Thank you I've been struggling with my fx6 and I'm totally going to use this setup 👌
No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful as I just make them to be used for any free information.
Been a month since I had this set up all running. Have to say my water readings are spot on. And the water looks like glass most of the time. Have stocked it with roughly 50 small community fish ( mollies guppy tetra dwarf gourami & corydoras ) introduced over 2 weeks. Filter is handling it very well. Water readings back that up.
Fantastic video, I am just in the process of starting up again in the hobby after a 4year brake and the fx6 is on the list with a 360l tank of discus . I will be following your advice and pimping the filter ...
That should give you around 1.5kg per 100 litres which should achieve a full cycle. There is a video on RUclips from Aquarium Adventures showing an FX6 on a 500 litre discus tank (1kg per 100 litres) which achieved a full cycle in 4.5 months so it is possible with less than the recommended 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres for a discus tank.
Pondguru thanks for that I will check it out. My only concern is that the flow might be too much for the discus with the fx6??
I actually run a sump with my Discus tank at the moment - but did for a long time run a FX5 (practically identical to FX6) with my old tank (350l).
The Discus were fine with the flow rate - and if you are concerned, it's fairly easy to fit a spray bar or similar to diffuse the flow
Aquarium Adventures thanks for your message and advice. possible spring bar or maybe a lily pipe.
Johnfloyd man77 I run a fx6 in my discus tank with the standard set up just aim the flow appropriately it's fine , my tanks a juwel trigon 350l
Just "Pimped" my FX6 today with this technique... Except I used the Fluval BioMedia.
Can't wait to get this going to see the difference.
Thank you for the video!
Great video! Why did you split coarse and medium? I’m thinking 1st tray coarse. 2nd medium. 3rd fine foam. The polishing on top of first center into bio home ultimate. I have no facts behind this. What do you think of my idea? Thank you! Keep the vids coming!
I to think that the way pond guru has put the medium and coarse is not efficuent.If you check how the water pass into the tank, putting them orizontally ,seems more logical....
Another way is using a pre-filter outside the can, and fill with media even the foam trays ;)
Just to resurrect a dead comment, the fx6 is designed to spin the water up around the outside edges (the foams on the outside), and them spill it over the top and down the center column. So, the idea is that a course and medium combo allow for both relatively quick water flow. The fine pad at the top then catches whatever muck is left. The idea is to keep water flow going relatively fast.
@@uncreative54 Exactly. I did the same as Richard said + at the top I have a finner foam before the polishing pad and after 2 months my biohome is still really clean.
@@uncreative54
Thanks for the great info. Just got an fx6 and wanted to see this first. Also saw comment about waterconditoners. Guess I’ll stick w the api and ditch the prime. Thanks so much
ditch the prime??? Why??
@@Sahadi420 ruclips.net/video/1YCtMYZQlig/видео.html
One alternative is to keep the stock ones and add a layer of filter floss, layering it like this. Has worked well for me
He always looks like he's just about to smile, but never actually does...like fighting back a smurk at all times lol. Great Info though, much appreciated!
The tray can be further improve with cat litter and laterite to reduce nitrate. My one had zero nitrates after 3 month.
@Horse I have heard of this elsewhere. have you did this with a fx6? I'm curious to know how you configured it, if so. I thought that for the bcb process to work properly you need a very slow filtering process?
I love the FX filters, they may not have the best amount of space for media but It's still sufficient and the large amount of foam, large strainer and high flow rate is truly amazing for keeping the water clear. I always used to use Eheim canisters as they generally have greater media capacity but as far as mechanical filtration goes, they just don't seem to cut it for the messier fish I keep like my green chromides.
Yes the FX filters (and fluval filters in general) always seem to be good at the mechanical side and have adequate provision for biological media but are never outstanding in that department.
Gotta love the accent..."it catches all the mookk..there the fohm comes in..."
Hi mate just like to say your bio kit you sold me years ago is still going strong plants and fish are doing great 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That's great to hear and I'm pleased that you're happy with it.
Are you able to try out the flow rate of the FX6 by taking in water from one tank and filling up a different tank? That would be a entertaining video, not to mention the huge amount of useful information.
This way I have tried it. Takes away 60%
@@CrazyAquariumGuy 60% of what? Efficiency? if so: why and how?
@@unogazzy84 That sponge is too much/too fine. Just do as I do. Keep original sponge on the sides. But pack the middle without dividers. And keep one of their black bumpy sponge up top. Rest Biological .I have several videos on it.
Awesome video! I did something similar with a FX5 & 6. Based off your other videos. This really confirms it. Thank you for such informative advice.
Groovy - sounds good to me and I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I appreciate you doing these vids and telling us the problems. I've watched all of them on filtration. If you had an FX6 and put a pre-filter canister on it for mechanical filtration could you load the FX6 entirely with media then as you talked of before? How much media might it then hold?
You are awesome. You give the best advice. Thanks a bunch for helping your fellow man achieve healthy water for our aquatic pets.
No worries and I'm glad you enjoy the videos.
Thank you so much for what you do, this has helped me to understand how I need my filtration set up.
I have an FX5 and think it's a great filter too. Thanks for the video, am sure it will help a lot of people!
Yes I can't really see much difference between the FX5 and FX6 - they both hold the same stuff - great filters.
BTW I think I got the size of your tank wrong in a previous comment, I was thinking of Nathan from Simply Shrimps as he has a 500 litre tank, lol
Water travels upward through the outer foam chambers and flows over the top into the center media trays, correct? So why not keep the course foam in the bottom tray, medium foam in middle tray, fine foam in top tray and polyfill on top of upper tray media?
the water can travel trough the circular foam over the whole height of the filter. the idea is that it travels from outer circle to inner circle, up and back down through the middle circle
That wouldn't work
The wate travel’s through the outside straight to the bottom comes up through the coarse filter foam then back through the fine foam then bio and then finally Chem.
That’s a great idea I think
This is exactly what should be done. The water doesn’t go outside in and the over the top. And goes bottom to top and then down again down the middle.
I just set up 2 fx6 according to ur specs cant wait to c how great this filter is
(my other channel) That is good to hear and as long as the filter(s) are suitably sized for the tank and stock (and you're not using seachem prime which starves the bacteria) they should deliver great results.
@@ThousandYardStare whoa dont use prime??? what do i use then cuz i always use prime I have a 110 gal w about 10 peacock & hap cichlids & 3 synodontis
@@frankiefingerz8047 Anything else will be fine - I always recommend API stress coat as it doesn't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
There is more information on the Q&A page of my FilterPro website www.filterpro.co.uk
and I made a video specifically on this issue here: ruclips.net/video/1YCtMYZQlig/видео.html and there is some great comments in the comment section there from people who have switched conditioners. There are also some great comments on a post I made in the 'community' tab on my channel here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxFdgRRt6GxA1o3ffDzsF5dbOaB5xAuoFX
Hope that helps.
If you cut the foams into 2 rather than have them same length as the official fluval foams they don't block off some of the fins, the fluval ones have that semicircular cutout so that this is avoided. Also can I ask if you have tried replacing with layers of blue and green foams rather than black and blue as the black ones are really coarse, I think they are probably coarser than the fluval ones so don't offer much trapping of debris. I'm wondering if the green is too fine or not?
i would suggest filling a 3" pipe 10' in length, packed full with the biohome ultimate media to give maximum water to media contact as the water flows down the pipe. Instead of water flowing over the media, water is essentially flowing through the media like a river for maximum nitrate absorption.
I have been waiting for this since you have started the series and teased on instagram. i already have the bihome but was curious how you were going to set up the foam blocks. What is the total thickness of the foam you have sandwiched together?
It is around 1.75" and each foam is around 1.25 by itself but they can join together quite well. You could even use a coarse and medium flat foam but they would need to be thinner since they don't knit together like the bumpy foams do.
Two of the in daisy chain, the first one comes from the tank full of sponge then linked from the outlet to the inlet to the second one full of bio which then goes back to the tank, you could even run the tank off the second one, just take out the impeller in the first one
That is one way of setting up filters and if it is working for you it's all good.
Stock this filter comes with the outer foams you showed, two medium pads, and a fine pad. They put the fine pad at the bottom to protect the motor. Are you not worried about protecting your motor from the pellets you used?
Aside from that, won’t the water only travel through the course foam and skip the medium foam with your setup? (Well until the course gets saturated and the medium becomes the path of least resistance)
Edit - I took apart my filter yesterday and looked at the paths and it does force it to flow sideways through the filters. That said, after going from course to medium don’t you now having it then going from medium to course then course to medium... if it got past the first medium, future course filters wouldn’t have any effect. So shouldn’t you be doing a few course foams and then switching to your medium foams in the middle to top rings?
Common sense isn't common great incite logically I considered the same thing
I see what you are saying. I placed the Black filter at the bottom of the trays that holds the media to keep any stray stuff from dropping into the motor. I've used this method since I've had the filter (4 years this month) and have never had any problems. I can only assume that since he's using such large media, it's no concern.
Your 100% right I used his red bio media without any kind of sponge at the bottom try and after inspection I found loads of red sand bits at the bottom of my canister and in the motor unit
Richard, Best video I have run across yet to explain the best way to set up the FX6. I bought an FX6 for my new 75g tank that will be a tropical tank. I have always run more filters than most, but I knew even with this filter I would want another as well. Looks like I will order another FX6 and have no worries now. However, I am concerned if running two FX6’s will be too much flow for a 75
You can never have too much filtration on a tank but flow rate could be an issue for species which don't like a heavy flow so if you have angels, discus etc. which do not live in a flowing current then a spray bar may be better. Actual flow from filters is always about half what the manufacturer promises by the time pipes and media, foams etc. are added so I wouldn't worry too much.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video - thanks for watching.
I been watching some of these pimp my filter videos and think i did learn some from this, so first big thanks for sharing
I am a bit confused, i the video about the Fluval 206 Canister Filter (ruclips.net/video/tcwFy1OtAPE/видео.html) you put in 2 x 500g biohome iltra and says this can do a full circle on tanks uptil 800 liters, in this video you put in 5 KG of biohome and says it will do a full cicle on tanks uptil 500 liters.
So i do suspect some calculations went wrong or maybe expirence has changed the input for these calculations.
I think he said 100 liters for the 206 because It wouldn't makes sense for the 206, being one of the smallest in the family to maintain 800 liters.
@@JohanJB i still dont understand, in 1 video use 1 kg for 800 liter and i other use 5 kg for 500 liters...
@@frankvisler9596 He said "a hundred" liters. I know his accent made it hard to hear but if you go to the 206 video and turn on captions, he did say " a hundred liters" not "eight". So that means that 1 kg is at least enough for around 100 liters.
I really enjoyed your video. Very well explained. The company must hate you for that 😊. From Puerto Rico. Love your accent.
eheim 2250 / 2260 bigger and better
Monster filter and some of the big eheims hold vast amounts of media.
Pondguru yep ordered a load of biohome off ya just before Christmas u wasn't entirely sure how they setup as no trays come with it .. all designed to be loose but showed ya pics .. decided on 3 course of sponge on bottom and bagged up the media .. had 2 fx6 on my 8ft and was cleaning monthly.. changed to the eheim and now cleaning every 4-5 months ..stocking of tank is no different
That sounds good to me, groovy.
I'm glad it has worked out well for you.
pls an eheim 2260 can hold over 15L of biomedia vs Fluval Fx6 5-6L lol
@@CichlidVibes no i know a well balanced tank can run without a filter. But when it comes to big tanks with a heavy bioload nothing match The eheim 2260
I like your video so much I went and bought an FX6 and am going to pimp it out like you did. Thanks! Pet Smart had it on sale for $249
Didn’t use a 25% coupon on it while on sale? Should be cheaper than $249.
4 months ago there was a glitch where you stack 15%, 20% and 25% while fx6 was on sale for $249 making it less than $139
Great job, Richard. A really considered and informative pimp-job (and vid) on improving the performance of the FX-6! Cheers.
No worries and I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Very good, makes total sense, I will be doing this on my new marine tank.
Excellent video and I'm going with your recommended changes for my FX5 to reduce nitrates. Even frequent water changes in the 90 g. is not bringing the nitrate level below 100 ppm. I have some large cichlids, about 20 inches total and minimize feeding. Hopefully the change leads to full cycle. I'm not sure if the change needs to be phased, biohome tray 1 followed by two and three over time or all at once. I want to ensure there is no ammonia spike. Feedback on this would be helpful. By the way, after price shopping, cost of biohome ultimate (5 lbs.) was $78 and the foam filters (2 sets of 3, course, medium and fine) was $34.
That seems more reasonable but I'm not sure how that compares to English £ as our currency is in the toilet, lol
Yes any plans to totally upgrade a filter on a mature tank would be done gradually over a couple of months on a filter the size of an FX6 / FX5 so maybe change the foams in the first week, wait 1-2 weeks then change the top tray, leave another 2-3 weeks then do middle tray and leave 2-3 weeks then do bottom tray. Most people upgrade much more quickly than that without any problems but I always advise taking it slow.
I run my FX6 on a 125 high tech and it has performed flawlessly.
I actually went and bought the Fluval branded medium (blue) filter that goes at the top of basket 1. Has worked well for a year with the original pad and 3 cleanings. You did teach me a trick using fingers through the windows to properly seat the foam (thank you). I also bought 1000g of pumice media that completely fill tray 3 while varied bio/chemical media fill tray 2. I reserved tray 1 for all of the filter pads.
Question: How long can filter pads last before they should be changed? I clean my filter pads every few months and they seem to be holding up, but I also don't want them failing and clogging the pump.
Love this series of videos 👍 had a fx6 on my old 250ish litre African Cichlid tank few years ago, had it set up similar with biohome ultimate as this, worked great for me. Using the biogravel in my two new tanks (got off your ebay shop) Juwel filter and a AquaNano 30. Great filter media 👍
That all sounds awesome to me - groovy.
Thanks!! I waited before buying this until I see you set up. I keep turtles and I use chemical filtration.
I keep large fish so i could never get a full cycle but i think your upgrades are great
(my other channel) As long as you have a suitably sized filter which is well set up with good media (e.g. Biohome Ultimate) there should be no problem achieving a full cycle as long as you're not using a conditioner which messes with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (e.g. seachem prime).
There is no lie in Nature but there are plenty of lies in paid-for $cience.
With enough filtration you will get a full cycle no matter what the tank and stock is - what water conditioner do you use? Something as simple as using a damaging conditioner can be the difference between a full cycle and normal (high nitrate) test results.
Hi there if I may ask, fluval conditioner and cycle are good to use and get a full cycle? I already modified my fx6 with the foams and biohome ultimate
@@andremarques4900 (my other channel) The Fluval products don't mess with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate so are fine to use.
As long as you have a suitable amount of good media for the volume of tank and stock and there is nothing holding the bacteria back (e.g. seachem prime) then it's all good.
You can find loads of useful advice regarding filtration and bacteria on the Q&A page of my website www.filterpro.co.uk
@ThousandYardStare I think I'm good. Fx6 with your upgrade in a 240L tropical aquarium. Just finished assembly it. Anxiously waiting to get the cycling started
Thanks Richard another great video. You cleared up a few things with the fx6 that I was not sure of. With out Google and RUclips we would still be in the dark ages.
I'm really passionate about making videos with something educational in them so I'm glad you appreciate them - I totally agree it is difficult to find useful information online with all the nonsense clogging it up, lol
I watched your video and setup my two fx4 this way.
I was able to get 6.1 lbs of biohome ultimate in each filter for a total of 6kg of media.
Running a 125 gallon with 10 "large goldfish so I hope I am using enough media.
Thanks again
125 (US?) gallons is approx. 475 litres and a goldfish tank could take 2kg per 100 litres (26 US gallons) so a heavily stocked goldfish tank would need 9kg-10kg to achieve a full cycle. You'll not get that amount of media in 2 x FX4 but would in 2 x FX6 - however you don't say how many goldfish you have in the tank but if they are 10" I'm assuming it is either 1 or 2 so should be OK with current filtration.
Thanks for the reply. I have 10 pretty large goldfish and currently have to do water changes every 4 days of at least 50% to keep ahead of nitrates.
Looks like larger filtration is in my future.
@@74jodoc I would say so, lol
Really good video. I'm going to buy an FX6 for my 125 im going to set up so this helped me a lot. Thank you
No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful.
My back hurts just looking at that beast of a canister filter!😂😂😂
Yes it is like lifting a giant tortoise but it can be drained prior to being moved using the bottom drain feature (if you attach a pipe and lead it to a drain)
I've just ordered one of these to replace my APS 1000EF .Dreading trying to lift it!
Same here bro suck at cutting it perfectly but got it in so hopefully it works good
@@leo2o915 I've had it up and running for 3 weeks now with Richards suggestions in this video and it's perfect.
It can be drained before moving so it's easier to move than my old one. The handles are also comfortable to use.
@@zeeinajar I set mine up the same the only difference is I added another fine sponge on the bottom tray under the biohome and also added filter floss to the top tray
Have you tried a whole house water filter cartridge on the intake instead of the strainer. It fits the hose almost perfectly. Glue a piece of rubber to one end and you are ready to go. I like the carbon filter because I like the black color. They will filter thousands of gallons before it needs replacement, cost $7.39 on Amazon. It will keep the Fluval a lot cleaner for a lot longer. Hope to see a video about it. Keep up the good work.
Fx6 the true power ruclips.net/video/xY9orFFEKts/видео.html
Have 2 of these for my 1215 Liter Aquarium and its amazing
Hi Pondguru love your videos and the products are 1st class. Thinking of getting one of these but I noticed at 7:28 you say the water comes from the bottom to the top. As you can see straight through from the top to the bottom. Surely this will bypass the sponge filters? TIA
The trays fit into the bottom of the filter to cap off the bottom of the trays and the top of the filter caps off the top tray. Therefore water has to travel through the outer foams before getting to the part behind the foams where it travels up then to the top of the top tray before heading down through the trays.
Hope that makes sense.
Since it flows from bottom to top dont you think the water passes through the foam vertically? I kinda doubt it goes laterally and then up. So each tray should have its own size foams not combined. Coarse then medium then a fine on top. Centers can be all bio media.
This has been my thinking aswell
Thank you, I just bought the FX 6 now thanks to you I’m pimping this monster.
Painstakingly detailed and thorough video!!! Many many thanks. Those foam sound like a great idea!!! Liked & Subscribed!!!
An excellent video showing a wonderful knowledge and willingness to share this knowledge.
No worries, that's why I love making videos as it feels great to share any useful information - more importantly it helps fish all over the world live a happy long life.
i'm glad i'v picked up on your videos i for one have had my filters packed the wrong way around [due to manufacturer advise] i do like the result of bio ultimate so that's on the cards this week
Sounds good to me - thanks for watching.
Just a note. I am using two of the FX6 filters on my 200 gallon Discus/mixed inhabitant tank. I also use Biohome ultimate media and I HAVE to have a fine filter as the last stage, because the Biohome constantly sheds sand/grit and will ruin the pump. I learned this the hard way by destroying two pumps in my FX6.
If that works for you it's all good but the media generally wouldn't drop excessive amounts of sand - how do you clean the media?
I wash/rinse the biohome at least 4 times before I even use it in the filters; it comes with a ton of sand/detritus in it, so it HAS to be washed/rinsed thoroughly before use. I have had this setup for about 2 1/2 years and have tried various setups, and the only one that keeps the pumps from getting sand/grit in them, is to have a fine filter as the very last layer to trap that fine sand/silt.
I have to tell you that your channel is by far the most useful and factual on RUclips. The whole reason I went with TWO FX6s, is your insistence that you can't have too much filtration and that manufacturers ratings are bollocks! I have 18 Discus, 20 Yellow Tetras, 20 Cochus Tetras, 20 Buenos Aires Tetras, 12 Corydoras, 4 Plecos, 25 Ember Tetras, 15 Viper shrimp, 100 nerite snails and the tank is massively planted.
Cheers!
Pondguru Sorry, I replied from my second account. The Mort and 80shilling comments are both me.
@@The80shilling Having a fine pad last as well as in first tray isn't a problem if you're worried about sand getting into the pump but cleaning the media should only require a simple shake of the tray in a bucket of water - I should have been more specific with the question the first time - how do you clean the media during maintenance?
Sounds like you have a nice tank set up there.
I need help in understand my theory on the flow thing. 1) the flow will only impact the exterior of the media unless the media is so porous that is allows the pressure of the flow to be retain through it. 2) media that absorbs water will retain it in a much more static state than the flow deep in its composition. So the deeper pores will automatically experience a low flow state that will be favorable to an anaerobic condition because the aerobic bacteria will consume the oxygen rich water before it reaches the low flow (virtually stagnate) area of the media.
I use two FX6 on a heavily overstock (confession) African Cichlid 120g tank with sand and Texas Holey rock. Running about three months now and well established. I set up the filters before learning of Bio home using Matrix and Marine Pure products. I am intrigued through especially, by your Super Bio Gravel in following my theory noted above. Thanks for your videos!!!
Hey ! I am new to the hobby and thanx to you I got some idea about nitrogen cycle . I have a request for you , if you could give out a full mechanism about building a sump filter . Basically about how to set it's inflow and pumping out of water calculations so that there may be smooth functioning of it ..
Not sure about the flow calculations as that will vary depending on what the sump is being used for but I will be getting a sump built soon specifically for filming with so will cover anything relevant (and I'll try not to forget to include stuff) there.
There will likely be a video for freshwater and one for a marine set up.
Pondguru yea that will be great for people like me ! Actually the main question on my mind is how to decide the flow of the water from the sump filteration , I saw a video recently stating the basic thumb rule " sump should be able to cycle 6 times the water held in aquarium , within an hour " is it so
Also your best position of different media for best biological cycle ..
It would be a great video for people like me who wants to invest time and do something ourselves for our hobby
I have never been a proponent of a certain flow rate and turnover rate as the quality of the mechanical and biological filtration are the most important things but sumps will generally offer a better turnover rate than a canister filter and are way more adaptable to a certain tank situation.
I just picked up a sump from my mate Andy yesterday and although it is very small it should be a good start point for a video on sumps - just waiting for heater, skimmer, filter socks etc. to arrive from various parts of internet land then I can film it.
Pondguru okay .. I hope that there might be some useful info. for freshwater fishkeepers as well 😅😅 coz I think we need not need skimmers n all for out sumps
mohit verma for a freshwater tank the set up is very simple but I'll mention things which can be added if desired.
Good day Richard,
Great video and well presented mate, thanks for it and best regards from all of u all the way from Kiwi land, Down Under.
I hope you're well, man - moving into your Winter now? and I bet it's still better than our Summer, lol
Thanks for these great tips. Inspired me. Greetings from Canada. 🍻
(my other channel) No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful - best of luck with the tank.
My opinion is that the water outlet is blocked by the spons now. See how the oem has a half circle cuted out? you need to do the same so the spons is not pushed to front and blocking the water outlet section. Otherwise water will not go where it should go and can reduce the flow.
How so when the outlet is drawn up the clear tube from the bottom to the top.
Fantastic again ! I have a oase filtosmart 300 and I can’t figured out how I can upgrade it properly and the right way 😕
That is one I have no experience of unfortunately and online information doesn't offer much useful with regard to flow direction or how it could be altered.
Thanks for this, been anticipating seeing this video since you first mentioned it. I've held back using my third FX6 until I'd seen you set it up.
An order will be following soon!
Bill
lol, they are a great filter and I'm glad you found the video useful.
@7:05 I tried this but can tell you if you are near max length on the hoses (Like I am) and you are using an FX2 your flow rate will suffer dramatically.
Assume FX6 pump can handle it.....
Glad to see the video getting ready to do my fx5 filters but I got the 6ft rolls which I'll cut and and use the course and the blue filters after I cut the rolls to size should have the same results only difference is it was cheaper for me to buy the filters by the rolls and cut to fit that way I have plenty for more filtration to use in my fx5 for future cleaning.
Where did you you buy the foam from?
fx6 upgraded today-looking forward to the next few weeks/months
Sounds good to me - groovy.
Thx a lot for making this vid! I recently got a FX4 and I love it and I love it even more now after hearing all good things about it from you!
Yes the FX4 is a little (big) powerhouse and I have a video on that one coming up soon too - set up is exactly the same except it only has 2 trays so holds 3kg media.
You've done a great job with the fx6. I hope you pimp a sump!!
I'm thinking of adding one to my 800ltr discus tank.
No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful. I do have a small sump to shoot a couple of videos on (one for fresh water and one for salt water) but haven't had the time to make those videos yet - I'm still about 20 videos behind in this series, lol
So much editing needed, so little time.
Guru. I paused at 1:42 and noticed that the bottom of the tray is a solid piece of plastic. So that means water goes throight the coarse and medium but only the fine pad in tje first tray. So this means the other 2 trays serve no purpose because it gets filtered at the top OR water passes the same way through the other w trays meaning that there is no fine filtration in the 2nd and 3rd tray sort of rendering the bio home useless. NOTE: i don't own a fx filter so i can't say for sure but that meand you need a fine pad for the other 2 trays as well
I also there is a little gap in between each tray so that should mean i'm right
The inside is closed off from the outside ring. the only way water can flow in the inside is from the top down. all water has to flow through the filter on the top layer.
salreus salreus but then that means the other 2 filter things are kinda useless.
how so? are you assuming 100% of the water is able to flow from the bottom filter only?even if this were true, water flows through the path of least resistance. if that was the case then as the first one fills up with debris, then the second filter would be come less restricted, and then the first and second would fill allowing the third to become less restricted. making use of all three filter... at some point. perhaps not at the start but at some point the degree of resistance should balance between all 3 filters allowing all of them to be used.
salreus salreus. Do you own a fx filter?
That is an interesting take on how to set up this filter. I don't trust the side foams on the side that much, I always put more medium and fine foams in the top tray and one more fine in the bottom just to protect the motor.
Yes if you're worried about any particles being pumped out by the pump you could go with a medium / coarse pad in the bottom of the bottom tray but too many fine pads can slow the flow down, increase wear on the pump and cause extra maintenance.
I’m no fan of the outside foam section either.. it’s more like a half done prefilter. I’m sure the swirling allows the foams to catch some crap but the area is mostly just bypassed and the top of the first internal tray takes the brunt of the work.. since the capacity is semi limited I just place my fine pad right on top which makes it easy to change out and fill the rest full of media.. I do cheap a little though.. I cut the fine pad to the diameter of the entire canister and punch the holes for the pipes.. the result is I get two passes through the pad. Once as it comes over the perimeter foam blacks then again as it starts flowing coward through the biomedia. I then use the red tray divider in the top packed with poly fill and Purigen and chemipure for extra fine filtering density and then other half and bottom two trays are all bio media. I replace the thin fine pad every two weeks and the poly monthly with a proper cleaning.. I’ve spent months toying with different setups to maximize mechanical wo giving up the small for size bio capacity.. this is the best solution I’ve found.. I played with putting finer foams and even poly fil in place of the foam blocks and it seemed to just increase the bypass. Best I can tell from the design nothing more then corse foams will work on the outside.
How does the water test with regard to nitrate? I get so many people saying that they can't achieve a full cycle when they use either purigen or chemipure then it develops naturally when they remove that so I'm always asking people who use it if they have managed to achieve a full cycle as that shows the bacteria is working properly in a filter.
So far I haven't heard of one case where a full cycle is achieved when purigen is used in a filter but there has to be one somewhere.
Tbh I honestly can’t say if I’ve got a full cycle or not.. heavy stock would be an understatement in this case.. I tried for a long time experimenting on a 60g with an adult yellow ear slider as well as 30-40 juvie and close to a few adult cichlids lol. I did the ballpark math and based on the filters and the stocking I determined I’d never actually see any real results from a full cycle unless I managed to get it from a sump or very deep sandbed which is impossible with cichlids and turtles.. (fish are now in a 125 and turtle alone in the 60 FYI) right before changing tans I was actually seeing close to 80-100ppm daily nitrates.. so you can see how it would be very very hard for me to determine if I was getting a full cycle.. I was doing daily water changes of 90% to maintain a quality tank for a long time. I honestly could’ve moved them much sooner but used about a years time to try and experiment with many different filter setups. I’ve even gone as far as using reactors with reduced flow to reduce o2 and entice nitrate reduction.
As for what I have seen and experienced.. Purigen paired with chemipure blue did greatly reduce nitrates by simply removing organics before being broken down. The single best option I found was skipping corse and medium foams and going straight to fine pads or polyfil and just replacing them weekly. This seemed to be the single best option and best way to remove organics before being broken down. As for filtration on the old 60 at one point I was running an fx6, c360, reactor, and zoomed 511. Fully packed with media setups I put the filtered flow turnover at around 15x per hour bare minimum and conservative. Even since moving the fish to a 125 running the exact same filtration setup I’m getting roughly 30ppm weekly nitrates. Most of the actual biomedia is matrix or pond matrix(sorry it’s cheaper the biohome lol) mostly the pond version to get larger denser pieces which should be better suited for a full cycle.. roughly 12 liters total plus the reactor which holds maybe another liter at best.. I also run prefilter sponges in 20ppi on the intakes which allows me to remove most of the mechanicals inside the filters and max the biomedia capacities.. I run Ehiem biomech in the bottom of every canister as much as possible even inside the intake ramp of the fx6 which I will admit isn’t east to properly do cause of its design.. I’ve even gone as far as using small bioballs in place of the corse pads on the fx6 which I thought would be a great option but my fine pad took way more brunt. Tried poly as well and even still cause of the circular flow I got much more gunk on the top fine pad in the fx6 which I’ve mostly used for most experiments as the c360 is what I consider my main filter cause it hold a ton more media.
If you look at your older “why your filter isn’t cycled” video you’ll see I recently asked another question about using zeolight after biological filtration or in a secondary filter to remove ammonia which in turn should reduce nitrates wo overly effecting bacterial colonies on a seasoned tank. As I said there I’m really really getting to the point where I think we are doing everything backwards by trying to remove nitrates instead of ammonia. Without ammonia there is no nitrates. The issue I’ve run into here in researching a proper filtration setup is most systems are way to small with way to low a flow rate to be effective or way to large for a per tank setup as they are normally whole house or comercial sized unites.. I’m thinking like an rodi sized unit that has low micron prefilter and ion charged ammonia pleated filter and an ion charges nitrite pleated filter just in case.. again the issue is to achieve enough flow to properly filter a tank you run into systems way to large to be cost effective for tanks. I’ve seen a few people who use this with well water setups as they already have most of the needed items to filter house water and simply plumb tanks Into their house systems and add a few things.. I like nature and it’s uses.. but at the same time I like watching my fish instead of working on their tanks.. removing ammonia and eliminating the cycle entirely imop is a more efficient way of filtering and with current tech is able to be done just the demand to build properly sized systems isn’t yet there case we are all still stuck in a 60yo mindset of tank filtration utilizing full cycles..
I should add I have 8 freshwater tanks in my house lol.. many are planted to some extend and as such im able to control nitrates to 5-10ppm constant values forever. I’ve got an overly stocked community tank with a lot of hornwort that helps reduce that tank to 10ppm weekly accumulation on a 50 fish tank load In a 55g tank lol..
Much to your credit and your videos I’ve become very versed in proper filter setup to maximize my tank capacities and stock more fish with much larger bioload then most would ever think of trying. A lot of my joy is actually from trying to solve filtration issues to reduce maintained tbh.. but many are Oscar and cichlid tanks which prevent the plant life assistance.. I’ve tried with several native species and they just destroy them in short time which increases bioload as the plant matter has to be filtered as well.. I value your every opinion as it’s one of the things that has gotten me where I am in the hobby.. that said.. I don’t have a fish room I have tanks in almost every room and in larger rooms several as decorations... water changes are a chore as I have to individually do each tank and at least half are out of reach of my 50’ python setup and require old school bucket by bucket syphon and refilling.. so much of my time is spent trying to maximize every tanks filtration in effort to best reduce water change needs..
That said I do have water changes spread out to a basic one tank everyday routine so it’s not that big a hassle.. fee minutes everyday when I get home before I settle in makes it much easier then spending an entire day doing al tanks at once.. I’m also semi versed in saltwater and love them for their ability to full cycle much easier with just use of rocks. It baffles me that I can’t utilize the same principles in freshwater systems and get similar results.. I’ve tried all kinds of rocks and it’s all wasted money really in terms of getting nitrate reduction.. I’ve even gone through phases of moderately salting appropriate tanks thinking that the salinity had much to d with things.. I’m sure it does but even brackish cichlid or guppy tank can’t achieve what you can with a reef rank in terms of filtration. Tried sumps with massive amounts of high nutrient absorbing floating plants.. (never duckweed mind you as I never wanted to deal with trying to get rid of it later lol) high flow, low flow, any amount of over filtration I’ve through most of it with freshwater systems and in a heavy stocking I’ve yet to see anything that can drastically reduce water changes to the point I would say 100% they work. And I test my water daily on most sinks keeping a log so detailed as to I know when I’ll need to change water based on what foods I’m feeding.. FYI to anyone who’s made it this far reading.. stay away from any type of pleco wafer or algae wafer unless you like high nitrates and changing water.. they are the absolute worst foods possible. Don’t believe me.. take a tank uncycled wo any fish drop one wafer in and watch how fast your tank cycles and how high the levels will go.
Damn it I have tried replying to this twice and had my kitten jump onto the screen knocking off the comment both times, lol
I think you're in the UK as you're working in litres and have hornwort as a native plant? so feel free to ring me any time since my short term memory keeps letting me down by the time I have scrolled up and down a page I have forgotten what has been said or asked in a super long comment.
My phone number is 07772848730
With regard to a full cycle (and nitrate level) I'd say for a normal community tank if you had between 0ppm - 10ppm and small weekly water changes to remove fish waste from tank you could consider that cycled as an average tank will sit between 40ppm - 60ppm after a week - a heavily stocked tank (e.g. cichlids, predator, goldfish) would generally have much higher nitrate so a level of between 10ppm - 20ppm could be considered a success but in all those situations people regularly report that the nitrate reads consistently zero when a suitable sized filter is set up with biohome (usually biohome ultimate in canisters) - that's with or without plants but almost always when filtration is simple, consisting of mechanical, biological and either carbon or charcoal for chemical.
Is the 125 and 60 in gallons or litres? I thought it was litres but may be gallons. If you have 13 litres of matrix in a 125 gallon system and nitrates are still 30ppm I'd say it was working but only just, probably due to the reactor creating more favorable conditions for anaerobic bacteria but since the matrix is so dense it would probably be better to go for a much smaller size in the reactor - 30ppm is still a good result from matrix. Seachem state it needs a flow of no more than 50 US gallons per hour to enable it to work and with that low flow in a decent size filter you could use any tightly packed media to create anaerobic conditions but canisters tend to have much higher flow rates - probably why they are considered to be nitrate factories as most of the activity is aerobic, especially when they're set up just as they come from manufacturer with plastics and limited media in them.
Great vids keep up the good work i saw in your fx4 vid that you put media at the bottom of the filter can the so the with the fx5 aswell
Thank you for the clear explanations and equally clear demonstration. I watch all of your videos and seem to learn from even those which cover other subjects.
I have a 125 gallon freshwater I'm setting up. I have an fx6 and an older fx5. Is it possible to run these two filters in series? I'm thinking of the fx5 as a 50% mechanical with the rest biohome ultimate then the fx6 as all biological. With both pumps running, of course. This would give me nearly 10 lbs of biological filtration.
Thanks for the earlier post regarding using proper dechlorinators to not harm the good critters.
Cheers, Kevin
10 kilograms, of course.
That sounds like a bad idea. Just get a 2260 if you need more bio media or just use both filters as intended.
Great vid been waiting for you to do this for ages and cant wait to do my fx4 and fx6 today. Thanks
Groovy - I'm glad you found the video useful and apologies for not getting it out sooner. It only takes an hour or so to film a video but getting time to edit it into something watchable takes me many hours over a few days as I don't get much spare time, lol.
I have another 6-7 videos filmed and so little time to edit them but hope to have them out soon.
Great video mate very informative can you please please show us how to pimp a freshwater sump I’m fed up with trying to clean filter socks properly thank you Richard...👍🏻
I will be getting one made in the next few weeks for filming purposes, no worries.
The basic process is the same with regard to the order of filtration but a sump offers much more scope for personalizing the filter to the tank conditions.
I just bought a fx6 on sale on petsmart yesterday for $210!
Great job. My nitrates are always high. I have a heavy stocked chiclid tank. Where do I get the foam and bio media
Amazon has the foam
What does it take to kill the beneficial bacteria inside of the canister? Turning it off? Types of meds? Might be over thinking but I feel it’s good information to know because I don’t know
Untreated tap water.
Read medicines carefully - some do kill bacteria, some don't.
Most of the bacteria is aerobic so turning flow off will eventually kill the colony, but it would take a long time! (48 hours+).
Chemical treatments for ammonia locking etc, depends which one.
Never clean the media in tap water - use tank water being drained during the change.
Why can you buy the individual filter pads from? Especially the fine ones?
(my other channel) I have links to my website in the video description and the pinned comment but these sort of foams should be available from any decent pond supplies retailer.
@@ThousandYardStare can I buy them from Amazon? Can only find deals for three foams!
@@MarkAliaFlorezHunt That's strange - the links to my website have a coarse and medium foam option as well as a fine pad option or an option to buy all 3. www.filterpro.co.uk (Foams page)
On Amazon I've no idea what people are offering since I currently don't sell on that site.
Great video and topic, i run 1 of these and an eheim on my 9foot saltwater, impressive filters and easy water top ups and sand cleaning attachment, cheers 👍
Yes they have a few great features - it concentrated on the actual filtering side of things but even the handy dials on the top so you can check when you last cleaned it is a nice useful feature.
Hi ya. I’ve just got your upgrade for the fx6. Got a couple questions if you don’t mind.
Where do I put the bacteria balls?
Also I use purigen and want to use it in the fx6 to. Would it be ok to put it under the trays
Just as the water goes into the pump?
Keep up the great videos
Thank you for your time
Thanks for the order.
The bacteria balls just go in with the filter media so they're in direct contact with it - they will slowly dissolve and release good bacteria into the system.
If you want to use purigen it would ideally go after the biological media so the bottom tray would be good but failing that you could use it in the space under the trays as long as it doesn't get drawn into the pump intake.
@@pondguru thank you very much. Got it all set up last night and all running 😊
@@user-sparky (my other channel) That is great - you know where I'm at if you need me.
Love your knowledge on filters. Blows my mind every single time. What are your thoughts on the ocean free Hydra range? I'm currently looking at the filtron 1800 for my new 100 gallon aquarium. Currently have the hydra40 internal for my 20gal
The Hydras were just coming out when I was winding my shop down so I didn't have the opportunity to test them - however since then I have had contact with many people who have used them and the opinions seem to be very mixed, ranging from about 20% saying that they noticed a difference to water tests to about 50% saying that they haven't noticed a difference (presumably since they didn't test the water) and around 30% saying that they din't work.
I think the science is sound behind them but I'm not sure how good they are as a long term solution - maybe I'm just old school but since I know that good 'traditional' mechanical and biological filtration will achieve a full cycle I stick with that as it is a one-time change which lasts for many years.
How is the Hydra doing for you in the 20 gal?
My thinking was to run a filtron 1800 but use your method to pimp it out for full cycle filtration.
There aren't many reviews on t be filtron range out there which is annoying.
My hydra40 is brilliant. I love it. I couldn't tell you how good it is in terms of full cycle filtration but I can leave the filter for 6 months and the water stays crystal clear (tannins from the bog wood aren't nearly as bad either) and the fish are happy as larry. I've recently 're planted my tank and restocked.
I'll be buying one in a few months. Can have a play with it if you want? Do your thing to it.
Yes I think the internal layout could do with a few changes as it is strange to have it hitting foams second.
I've watched a couple of videos from OF Hydra and they don't mention anything about reducing nitrate so I'm wondering what their USP is - maybe that they allow the other processes to occur better?
I'd certainly be interested in taking a look if you do get one and I promise not to make any (drilling) permanent changes to the filter, lol
My email is sales@filterpro.co.uk so whenever you're ready just drop me a message and I'll get back to you with my address no worries.