How to fit vertical timber cladding
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This is how I fit vertical timber cladding. This is the main Part of my thermowood timber cladding series.
I cover the new extension in it thermowood cladding that we prepared and mostly cut to length prior to starting to fix it up
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Excellent video! 90% of tradesman out there are absolutely terrible because they have no pride and don”t care. Great to see you do things PROPERLY!
The young lad knows his stuff good to see
I love the order and the symmetry around the windows and doors! As always a very educational video. Thanks Robin.
A great video and series once again Robin. Just an additional question to pick your brains, what are your thoughts on the cement based cladding options compared to what you've used here.? I've a timber framed garage project upcoming and I'm at odds on what could be best. Opinions from your viewers would be also welcome. Thank you.
What I love about your approach is how you will make templates, jigs and rods to help plan out the entire job. So instead of just starting, getting near the end and discovering something you hadn’t thought about, the whole thing is straightforward. Investment of time up front but slow is smooth and smooth is fast!
Nice job 👍
Not cladding but I love those sliding doors
What’s the silver/grey lining called? Gonna be cladding my porch soon.
Luvverly Job 👍🤠
When you install the revel do you push it up against the window frame? or do you leave a small gap for expansion,and put window expansion tape to seal it
Genuine question as I have seen it done both ways
Absolutely unreal.. ...
You are such a craftsman and educator. Must be so satisfying to know all your skilled work will be all over for generations to enjoy and admire.
It's like you're using cabinetmaking techniques on the scale of a house! Amazing craftsmanship!
Set out similar to tiling
Lovely work Robin. I noticed the cladding above the sliding doors wasn’t vented at the door head. Would it not need a ventilation strip like at ground level?
Great job Robin and Ed. The usual attention to detail. 👌
@robin, can you please do a simple video on marking wood? I.e. getting a size with a tape measure, then transferring this onto a piece of timber for cutting? This seems like an easy thing to do, but I would be interested to see your marking technique with a pencil etc. thanks!
Nice job! Here in Norway where almost everything is clad, they want butt joints on the corners, and I guess the argument is that you leave butt joints on all the door and window reveals, so why not the external corners?
They also want us to laser in all the nail lines up to above head height!
Most of the cladding is like a rough sawn face (planed on the back, oddly) and the nails are round heads and left flush, so you have to use a nail gun set light, and then tap them home with a hammer for that perfect flush finish.
Every days a school day for me here mate ;-)
Great work guys. The way the knots line up on the reveal is very satisfying too - almost looks bookmatched!
I am looking at cladding a 6ft fence in tongue and grooved cladding, I noticedJackson's fencing recommends:
"Stainless Steel 1kg Pack 50mm (2") Nails Annular Ring Shank, 2.65mm Gauge" for it's closeboarding cladding but I would like the nails to be less visible if possible. Do you think using stainless steel brads from a nail gun, (or another nail type?), would be less noticeable? Can you please recommend a discrete nail type head that should do the job. I love the attention to detail you give to all your jobs. Inspirational construction!
Many thanks
Nice ...i would leave the corner trims out side not in garage ..at least that way there weathered and would match same colouring of wood if added after 👍
So nice to watch when you know he is going to do it properly like knowing the movie has a happy ending.
Enjoyed your video. Just want to ask if you need to put a plastic sheathing before cladding
Robin, just curious what length and gauge/size of pin were your nails for the cladding?
Hey mate, I've got hidden fix shiplap. How do I start from centre when I can only go from left to right?
Fantastic work! Inspires me to get on with cladding my workshop! Thank you both!
Why don't they sell any of these trim accessories in the U.S.????
...and just like that the corner disappears! Amazing
good job but those side reveals should of had atleast 5mm gap at bottom rather than sitting straight on window sill
what pins you used ?
when doing mitred corners , a method I've used previously to produce efficient perfect mitres, is to butt together the acute mitre points together with both boards flat . Then run masking tape down where the two points meet. The tape effectively becomes a "hinge" for the mitre to come together when turned over and folded together after a bead of glue is run (the tape contains the glue squeeze out on the face) , before finally pinning together. Keep up the great content , I love how you and Ed approach your craft
Nice cladding.. What fixings are you using Robin?
More knots than wood in that cladding.
Just curious any reason running 2 layers of batten instead of just one layer in horizontal?
Thanks
Yes, ventilation. He covers that in the last couple of videos.
so suprised they get face pinned
Perfect timing!! My cladding arrived on Friday and ill be starting fitting it this coming week!
Epic as usual and will watch the same episode over and over until all the subtleties sink in. Thank you!
Inspiring workmanship as always, can I ask if any ventilation is needed behind the cladding? I originally thought the cross battens would allow for this but they look closed at the top and bottom.
Have a look at the video in this cladding series where I focus on the ventilation and cross battening
To Tall Ed ! He stands on the 4 th rung and is at the roof line! Great video !
Hi robin ,your ideas for fixing batten is brilliant it's saved me lots of time messing about taking it off and on 😊
Great video guys! Do you screw or nail gun the latts? Thanks
We do a mixture of both!!!
Hey Rob, I thoroughly enjoy your videos & dedication to sharing good trade principles.
I am considering doing a similar type of vertical cladding on my old victorian property patio entrance.
i am considering using scaffold boards, its tall but relatively small space. I'd really appreciate a few hints/tips from a master :)
Robin, from a fellow anal carpenter, I am using Thermowood T&G Cladding on my Summer House, they recommend 2.5mm annular ring nails face nailed, would you be so kind as to tell me what type of nail and gun you are using, I have the Hitachi 1st Fix and a paslode im65, I don't think either are right for the job!! Thank you.
I have used the IM65 with a 63mm stainless steel brad mostly my counter batten is no more than 450mm centres, if this is your summer house and the material is a standard ex 25mm board then this is perfect, thermowood is really stable and will not move once fitted
@ukconstruction Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I've counterbattoned at 450 centres, but have bought 50mm brads, I'll change them to 63mm. Thank you for your guidance 👍
Are you using stainless pins ? Ive used that timber myself and advised to use stainless
Always use stainless steel! Galvanised nails will corrode and leave horrible black run marks at every nail hole, very quickly too!!
More Ed!
18g pins for exterior cladding? Risky business 😅
That’s what I’m thinking?😬 won’t it all pop off when the wood starts to work?
re; the 15 degree cut. If I want to do horizontal overlapping cladding/siding, does each horizontal board get cut/ripped full length, with a 15 degree angle too?
No that sort of cladding will be fixed as it comes
@@ukconstruction Im not talking about buying "cladding boards". If I rip my own boards or use other boards not meant as cladding... Do I cut the long downward side at 15 degrees on every board?
Hi Robin, as a fellow carpenter I wanted to ask, are those 18g nails you're using and if so, are you confident they're strong enough to resist walking out and the movement of the timber throughout the seasons? Cheers
lovely job robin and ed .....just goes to show when you plan and set out any job the end result is perfect well done guys
perfect planning prevents p*ss poor performance :)
Bonchurch Building Services, a excellent piece of quality workmanship
Rob I am for doing this on my extension, do you have to leave your reveals shorter round your openings ? And can this be done with concrete sills ?
Robin, let me take tha bloody satellite dish down for you, who on earth fitted it to the wooden soffit?!!
Love the thermal wood, I'm planning horizontal cladding, but lots of your tips and expert techniques will still apply.
Robin ....question if you had to fit the external wood corner trim .....would it be glued on both internal surfaces or does the same rule apply if you was fitting for example plastic external mouldings to facia , would only apply glue to one side only to compensate for expansion ?
Brilliant Vlog and super quality work as ever. Question what is the expected life span of the timber and also will it be coated with anything?
So is that angle cut now the replacement for what was the drop edge then?
" Drop edge then"? You mean drip edge? The 15° angle cut on the bottom creates the drip edge.
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 you know what I meant 😁
18:38 Question- you start in the middle of the windows to have both side of the window even but then on rhe samw wall is second window how you deal with that as you can’t start from middle of the second window again
Thank you
hi rob
what woodglue do you recommend, cracking video as normal , just tuned in to fix radio aswell
Those poor bicycles! Just imagining the time needed to strip them down and rebuild clean.
That corner just disappearing was absolutely beautiful.
Is that the 18 gauge pin gun? If so what brand of pins do you use for it? Thanks
when you built the mitred section on the bench you could have put offcuts of batten in the angle to hold it square and correctly positioned they would go between the horizontal battens
My OCD would clear that pile of rubble before I started
The cladding looks great. The mitered corners, awesome. I hope they stay together and I prefer the look without the trim corner.
Thanks for a very informative series, that’s going to help when I get to the cladding stage of my garden roof
you snook that cat ladder in at the end ;-) Great detail and content as usual, liking the mix of short and long form
Hi Robin, lovely Sunday morning treat watching you (and Ed) doing such a wonderful job cladding, another class piece of work... you may have mentioned but will the cladding silver down over time? The job looks utterly fantastic and the knowledge learnt is invaluable. thank you so much for your time and effort, an utter joy.
If i was nearby i would offer to come and clear that hardcore into a skip in payment for the knowledge you have given... so sorry im too far away :)
Do you treat the wood after you have fixed it on and what would you use ? thanks for a great video
what type of nails are you using here?
What are all those marks all over the panels? Will there be some sort of finish?
Next job on my project is cladding, thanks for the tips
Wow, excellent work and the corners are spot on !
You are a super Craftsman & Ed is a lucky man to have you as a teacher
Grand job as usual tnx 4 sharing tips n tricks
Amazing work on those reveals and mitres, I couldn’t even have that much attention to detail on my own work!
I got that same cladding profile but thought it was intended for hidden fixing otherwise I thought there were cheaper profile for face fixing.
Hi Scott, yep it can be secret fixed with some care, personally I like a double fixing on each batten, also with the secret fixing to start in the centre like I demonstrate in the video is not possible unless you create a loose tongue for the centre section!!
making an easy job sound hard!
Been a plumber for 51 years but always enjoyed carpentry love watching your videos to see how it's supposed to be done
My late father was a plumber, I have lots of respect for you all!! many Plumbers including my late Dad are really good at carpentry!! thank you for watching and commenting!
5:53 Tingles.
Looks fab, quick Q: Does the Sun bleach thermowood? Thanks
Yes it will naturally silver down in direct daylight and sunlight to varying degrees favoured by many designers
Is that your house Rob.
Hi Robin, will that cladding maintain its colour, or will it turn silver over time? Great workmanship
All depends on the wood use, some go various light shades of grey over time.
Super smart mate. Lovely job.
It's not difficult.... I see a new video I click.
Solid content... As always pal.
Thank you!!!!
7:37 wait...? Is your ladder directly up against the insulation there? How is it not damaging it?
You can walk on that type of insulation
you are using 18 gauge nails, the internet says 18 is too small and have to use 16, 18s are going to last?
It depends on the number of fixings the spacing of the battens etc we are using a 50mm first quality stainless steel brad two on each fixing point and about 400mm between battens so in essence we are over fixing the material this particular cladding can be secret nailed and in that event you would have half the number it is then when a 16g would be essential
Hi Robin
What timber are you using to make the reveals??
Is it cut down from the cladding or do the suppliers supply them separately??
Thanks in advance
Darren
Hi Darren, it is indeed ripped from the full lengths there is a video about them here at my channel
I really appreciate the prompt response. Thank you for the information. I'll look that video up.
Cheers
Great fan of Thermowood.
nice job again...................do you need to treat that cladding ?
No it is super durable and can be fitted and forgotten!!
👍
A* top class
What I don't get is the fixings. What is that 15 gauge Brad nailer. Stainless or not. That would be illegal out here. Not classed as a substantial enough fixing.
Hi Dave, this is a 18 gauge with a 50mm stainless steel brad, we are fixing at 450mm centres and double on each fixing point, so its fairly well engineered and will easily do the job of holding the cladding perfectly
@@ukconstruction If we were putting cladding on like that in Oz. The requirement would be 50mm bullets. Lost heads to you. I have several 18 gauge nailers. Never used them on anything more than internal trim. If you think back to what you would have used in the days of hammers. Minimum of an 1 1/2 Oval. Probably actually a lost head. So just because it is a gun. How do we drop to a tiny brad from a solid nail. You try and remove timber nailed with lost heads. Compared to 18 gauge pins. You can pull the latter off with bare hands. Does the manufacturer have a minimum nailing requirement. I have never read one that mentions brads. Your work is always superb. Attention to detail, second to none. But lost on 18 gauge trim nails used on external cladding.
Hi,
amazing attention to detail.
I notice that you shoot 2 pins through the face of the cladding. Would you ever secret nail through the back of the groove to hide the fixings?
I mention secret nailing in the video and my decision not to, its during the early stages of the video
Hi and thanks for your reply. I'm keen to hear your views on this and have watched again but cannot find the section in this video. Do you have the time in the video when you explained this?
Thanks again @@ukconstruction
Fantastic work
Great tips Robin. Long video but worth it
Glad you think so!
1st time I've ever seen you use a blunt handsaw
well this is my adapted insulation saw!! I could not find my current sharp saw!! so great observation!!!
Looks awesome Robin 👍
That pile of rubble is distracting
Real life on a job!
Perfect !👍
Doesnt there need to be some way to vent/drain the cavity behind cladding above the door?
The cladding will not allow water through and as the batten is cross battened the air flows from the sides and the top has it continuous vent
@@ukconstruction most detailing of door and windows I've seen has flashing lapped into the breather sheet to direct water out of the cladding and avoid it pooling on the top of the door or window frame. Maybe I am misunderstanding and I think with the cladding and venting as you mention it would not be an issue but water would sit on the frame top for some time until evaporated wouldn't it? I am looking at cladding for my build (horizontal) and trying to work out what is acceptable to building control. Great vid 😁
So how about that ventilation? It looks like there is no gap for air to exit at the top and also not at the bottom above the window. Can someone elaborate on that?
There is a video at the beginning of this series that explains the ventilation
In that video you explain, but how does it work above the door/window? I'm sure you have it all worked out, but I can't see in this video how the air is let in at the bottom side above the window.
Another question about closing the airgaps for insects. You explain the mesh profile at the bottom, but what do you do at the top? I ask because I often struggle with this. I seems to me that there are often openings not so easy to close, which leads to ask, just how meticulous does one need to be?@@ukconstruction
What timber species is it?
It's starts it's life as a standard Redwood prior to the thermowood process
Nice work 🔨
Thanks 🔥