This is very useful information for Super 8 users! It's definitely worth the hassle so you can run all sorts of tests without the slow and expensive turnaround.
Note that if that is the Agfa Moviechrome for 1980 to early 1986, replacing the diamond box version that used Agfa chemistry, it has issues with mold and yellow calcium when processed if it takes. It was their first E6 film, but the last three E6 versions corrected that error.
Thanks for the info! I just used the cartridge to extract some film and test my process. I didn't think about processing the film really, but it's great to know that there was a bad batch just in case.
Hello, when washing Super8 film, do I need to destroy the plastic box at once and open it to take it out? Or should we pick out the exposed section under constant light like in the video and cut an arrow, then put it in a dark bag and place it on the film core?
I guess you found the answer to your question. I think all the answers are in the video, watch carefully and you will find all the info there. If you still have questions let me know and I'll try to help.
I normally don't share my files because I make products to sell, but you can send me an email, and I'll send you the files if you want. You must have a tank identical to the one I used here for the parts to work tho. Email is in the channel's info.
@ that makes sense. I use a tank that is similar, but not quite the same. I was thinking about trying to 3d model something akin to a lomo tank, but I worry about the finish of a 3d print scratching the film. Additionally, waterproofing a 3D print can be difficult. Not sure if just filling the thing with flex seal, for example, would cause issues with the chemistry
There are some Lomo Tank like designs on Thingiverse that you can download for free, some of them are very cool. 3D printing large parts like those at home is always challenging. The finish can be an issue for sure. Also, the parts may warp making the process of loading the reels more difficult. Using Flex Seal is a good idea. You could also use resin to create a solid layer around the tank. People have been 3D printing tanks for some time. I haven't heard of any issues with the chemistry. It's always a good idea to let plastics and resins fully cure, that takes about 7 days in general.
@monopoly2170 Yeah, there are some cool designs there. If you have experience processing film using E6, it shouldn't be a problem. If you are starting, black and white is more forgiving and affordable.
I only process black and white at home. The process is not as precise as it is with color. I use D-76 developer and Kodak fixer. I don't even use stop wash, just water.
This is very useful information for Super 8 users! It's definitely worth the hassle so you can run all sorts of tests without the slow and expensive turnaround.
I totally agree Christian. That's the purpose of this method.
Note that if that is the Agfa Moviechrome for 1980 to early 1986, replacing the diamond box version that used Agfa chemistry, it has issues with mold and yellow calcium when processed if it takes. It was their first E6 film, but the last three E6 versions corrected that error.
Thanks for the info! I just used the cartridge to extract some film and test my process. I didn't think about processing the film really, but it's great to know that there was a bad batch just in case.
Hello, when washing Super8 film, do I need to destroy the plastic box at once and open it to take it out? Or should we pick out the exposed section under constant light like in the video and cut an arrow, then put it in a dark bag and place it on the film core?
Haha, I didn't finish watching the video. Originally, it said in the video that releasing the shaft would allow you to draw
I guess you found the answer to your question. I think all the answers are in the video, watch carefully and you will find all the info there. If you still have questions let me know and I'll try to help.
Is that Kodak app just called ‘kodak app’
It's called "Cinema Tools"
Have you posted your 3d models anywhere? I’d like to give this a try!
I normally don't share my files because I make products to sell, but you can send me an email, and I'll send you the files if you want. You must have a tank identical to the one I used here for the parts to work tho. Email is in the channel's info.
@ that makes sense. I use a tank that is similar, but not quite the same. I was thinking about trying to 3d model something akin to a lomo tank, but I worry about the finish of a 3d print scratching the film. Additionally, waterproofing a 3D print can be difficult. Not sure if just filling the thing with flex seal, for example, would cause issues with the chemistry
There are some Lomo Tank like designs on Thingiverse that you can download for free, some of them are very cool. 3D printing large parts like those at home is always challenging. The finish can be an issue for sure. Also, the parts may warp making the process of loading the reels more difficult.
Using Flex Seal is a good idea. You could also use resin to create a solid layer around the tank. People have been 3D printing tanks for some time. I haven't heard of any issues with the chemistry. It's always a good idea to let plastics and resins fully cure, that takes about 7 days in general.
@ I did see one on thingiverse I was interested in giving a try! I’ve never used E-6 chemistry, so I’ll need to pick up a kit
@monopoly2170 Yeah, there are some cool designs there. If you have experience processing film using E6, it shouldn't be a problem. If you are starting, black and white is more forgiving and affordable.
Hey with what chimie do you develop it ? E6 ?
I only process black and white at home. The process is not as precise as it is with color. I use D-76 developer and Kodak fixer. I don't even use stop wash, just water.
Would you recommend developing tri~X s8film in rodinal?@@TheCinematographyLab