The Reason the Car HASN'T Been Mapped Yet...
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- I know you guys are just as eager as me to see this car mapped, believe me, I'm trying.
It needs to have no silly fault codes or bad running problems.
There's no point in taking it to get mapped if they will just turn around and tell me I need to get it fixed first.
I've had loads of comments and messages asking when the mapping video is... I promise I will tell you as soon as it's booked in. Hope you guys understand, I love all the support and I really appreciate it.
I just have to question this car some times :/
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i can feel the pain in your voice
It's killing me 😩
Trying to get round to replying to all the comments but I'll leave a summary of the day after:
- Lambda Sensor "2" codes have now disappeared and I'm left with just 4 codes, all to do with the deletes I have done, which is good!
- The car still starts up lumpy. It drives fine, boosts fine, it only acts up when you drive it gently which is weird.
The next steps I'm going to do is clean throttle body again, and get it re-aligned with vag-com,
replace some of the lines in the PCV system as they are quite flimsy and could be collapsing.
Other than that, just double checking for leaks, and then get it data-logged to find out what the hell's going on.
Massive thank you to everyone who's replied, I really appreciate all your support!
what does block 32 in vagcom show after the engine is fully warmed up?
Also some of those deletes WILL affect fuel trims. I don't remember what you deleted.
The "hockey puck" part that terminates the PCV hose to the turbo intake, just after the MAF, will cause issues with idle and light load. check that. there plenty of vids on youtube to check its function. if it is bad replace it don't delete it.There is a check valve in the "T" of the PCV system close to where the 90 degree hose attaches to the top of the oil cooler assembly. if that is bad get the one from 034motorsport it will only ever fail if you have BAD blowby and you can just clean it and it'll be fine. The stock ones are not able to handle higher boost even new and they dry rot like all the other plastic engine parts on our cars..
Check your fuel trims Brad. If you have good fuel trims then you 100% can tell you have no air leaks.
I recommend doing a pressure test to around 20psi and seeing how well it holds the boost.
I hope this helps.
I hope you sort the problem out, I've had nothing but problems with mine too. Although I think I found the problem now. Hopefully.
My car was running really rough every cold start, it sounded like it was running on 1 cylinder I ended up changing spark plugs and coil packs and that solved my rough idle.
Try unplugging the cable to the power steering pressure switch. Also try the stock air box and cleaning the throttle out, then do a proper throttle body alignment using VCDS. All are free and worth eliminating. (The PAS switch serves to make static steering easier by raising the engine RPMs so if it’s bad can mess up the idle).
12:24 NO WAY MAN! Don't you dare!
Cold start bad idle could be because you removed the SAI. At cold start the SAI pumps air to heat up the catalytic converter. Removing this without a tune will possibly cause a rough cold idle. Once you get a tune it could go away.
As far as the PSI goes, it sounds like it’s completely fine. Stock PSI is around 8-10 PSI. If you feel like it’s not holding boost properly, check your N75 valve. It will more than likely need to be upgraded after the tune anyways. Go for the bigger N75 J valve.
1-I had the same problem. I later found out that I had vacuum leak. try spaying starter fluid or (break cleaner )over your vacuum lines mostly at the connecting points. when you here an irregular idle you found your leak.my leak was at the hose from the crank going to my booster. 2- Your air fuel ratio is off, and you idle is trying to compensate.3- Check for collapse hoses while your car running, when your engine is cold the hose may look sound, but when hot it become soft and collapsible to a vacuum. Good luck. by the way I have the same car right down to the color, so don't get rid of it. I'm going through the steps with you.
I'm not sure but could it be coil pack spark plugs? I think you can get r8 coil packs on AUM engine and it runs just fine. Also its worth you checking if the coil packs are sitting properly as the AUM are know to push the coil pack up!
Just a shot in the dark here, but as the ECU is currently trying to recognise standard measurements and you have highly modified it in terms of air and fuel mixtures (uprated pump, bigger inlet pipes etc) would the remap allow it to adjust to it's new parameters?
No idea to be honest, I thought that too but they didn't mention anything of the sort 😢
I have had the same issues with my MK4 1.8T in the past. I replaced the Fuel filter, ECU sensor, MAF sensor and AIR FLOW Filter and Sensor! It was only when I took the car to a mate house where we strip everything and put it back together we found that it was just a very SMALL AIR LEAK on the Air Flow pipe. Replaced it...and it went away!!
It can be the smallest thing man but my advice it to double check all your hoses! and maybe get some new sensors? \m/!
Mine has a slightly uneven idle on cold and occasionally does the boost spike under light throttle, as you describe. Running a throttle adaption on VAGCOM seemed to help smooth it out. Had fault codes from decat and removal of all the SAI and emission systems until the remap too, can't remember if there was a CEL. I did have a thermostat and CTS sensor issue which caused numerous issues that I rectified with new OEM parts. Keep on man, I wanted to sell mine two days before VTL when it all went wrong, but be persistent and it'll be worth it on the track!
have you looked into the waste gate N75 valve? they're known to fail.
I had similar issues and it was my n75 valve . You have done so much work M8 you could by another car and have to go through it all Agen . Keep the videos coming . Rick
Hi,
I have the same 1.8t AUM engine, and had same problems with idle. Replace your fuel filter, clean your throttle body, check or clean your n205 valve, known as camshaft adjuster and calibrate your throttle with VCDS. It works for me. I hope it will work for you! Greetings from Bosnia!!
Once you have stage 2 mods on you must map it...it's never going to run right without it. Decat is going to throw of the O2 sensor
If you can get hold of one.. ‘Liquid gauge’ is what you want, I have one fitted to my LCR and it has a digital gauge for each sensor and also you’re able to code read and reset.. as well as other features. The company also has a complete database for each code so it’ll tell what the issue.
Coil packs or sparks. Having a decat upsets the o2 reading, you need a spacer so that the o2 is not picking up the lack of catalyst in exhaust!
I’ve been watching your videos for a little while mate, and you’ve done a wicked job on your car!
I had a mk4 VR6 not long ago, which had similar problems to yours regarding mpg and idling. I replaced the MAF sensor with an original one from TPS and replaced the after market panel filter back to an original one, and it fixed all of my issues!
Not sure if that might be worth looking at?
Hope you get it fixed soon bud.
Fitting a front mount changes things quite alot from standard. From what you are saying i think its BOV or vacuum related. O2 Sensors will only start working once the car is warmed up and at low load positions. As soon as you boot it it reverts to the standard map. I think you would be better off taking it to be mapped as the tuner will be able to see the issue quite quickly from the data thats coming out of the ECU and also his experience will make it alot quicker to solve.
Sounds like a dirty MAF sensor. Give it a clean.
Also check the cable connector pins on the maf plug. Sometimes they get pushed in and won't make a good connection / they break.
check your 2 fuel line's connectors for leaking, also check your 3th line goign to the evaporator that might be broken.
also check your injector cups if they are leaking, this are stuff that can cause this strange idling what you got.did you also learn in your throttlebody? i had this problems aswell and this fixed it for me greetings tristan
Missfire could be spark plugs or coilpacks
Birmingham racing thats what i thought
If u have anything done with fuel of ect get a fuel pump pressure gauge under hood from ecu tuning to set pressure and ect and if u have bigger injectors you need the pressure increased.
Hey dude I think u need to smoke test the car for any small air leaks ,it sound like an boost leak , plus check your turbo actuator if it’s holding it’s boots pressure as they fail quite often ,forge do an replacement bolt on kit for the mk4 1.8t
I’m stuck between getting an r32 or a GTI ?!?!?! Great vid btw, I hope your problem will be solved soon, don’t give up.
Could it be your coilpacks? Normally a main problem for idle etc
My 1.8t Auq does the same. I turn it on in the morning and wait till the idle drops below 1k then drive away. But if I start the car and straight away pull off it’ll splutter and be really lumpy. So I just wait the 30secs it takes for the idle to drop. My other car 1.8t bbu doesn’t tho but that is a lot newer type of 1.8t
I would check maf sensor don't buy a cheap one buy one from vw so it's calibrated to your vehicle and map sensor like the other guy said check that, lumpy idle is from the air and fuel mixture not reading right so as long as you ensure they are should be ok and maybe ensure all your earthing points are not corroded as well could be sapping power from that as it's having to work harder to keep charge might be nothing but worth a look
had similar problem with intermittent bad idle turned out to be the crank shaft sensor
The car she is looking at is nice tbh pretty new car she will beat u in most things good vid btw m8
My Audi A4 B5 did the same thing about running uneven or whatever , i changed the plugs and cleaned the thorttle body. I know you cant keep putting money into it, i'm just saying that i think your problem is a small or inexpensive thing :)
When was the last time you did a good service on the car? Like change spark plugs, oils, gear oil and everything, sometimes it can run lumpy due to worn out spark plugs
I would recommend getting an OBDeleven reader. You can look at almost every sensor and see whats acting up! I was able to look at my MAF sensor and saw that it wasn't reading correctly.
I have actually been given one... Didn't know it could read the sensors and stuff, I'm gonna have to go and have a play!
BWTV nice! To look at your MAF go to your engine module, then click on live data and then go to channel 2. You will be able to see your g/s. At idle you should be reading between 4-6 g/s and at full throttle in a 4th gear pull in my mk4 beetle turbo S I can get it up to 198 g/s! My bad maf would only read up to 70 g/s. Hope this helps!
If you can get it on live data get the long term and short term fuel trims and you can go from there. Obviously not ideal listening from a video but it does sound like a slight intake leak
Try cleaning the MAF with contact cleaner, I would then go and replace the coil pack and leads.
Check the brake servo pipe for any air leaks, I had a similar issue with my car it was running rubbish till I changed the servo pipe
And have you changed the spark plugs and ignition coils
I think your gal should make a RUclips channel for herself and make another one which you two can share for like collaborating and going to car shows and stuff, so you two can still make videos and each other’s day life and car on your own channel.
Take off your engine cover look to the right of the engine just below the air intake their should be a hose that’s connected to the corner of the engine where the n75 valves are just below them make sure it has a clamp either side! Also no I’m not on about the PCV valve.
Lambda codes are rarely due to failed lambda sensors on 1.8t’s. Lambda fault codes are generated by the lambda sensor correction being outside it’s normal parameters. ie, it’s over correcting due to a air/fuel ratio fault. 99% if the time on these engines that fault is unmetered air, either a vac leak or boost leak. Even the tiniest air leak can be enough. I’d check that Araldite on your boost pipe. I honestly don’t think it’ll manage the heat, vibration and boost.
I agree with DUBSessives. Use your obdeleven and look at your lambda on channel 32 and 33. 32 will be your long term lambda and 33 is your short term. If it is reading negative, you have a boost leak. And if it's reading positive you have a vacuum leak! In a perfect world your lambda should sit right around 1% at idle.
POST THOSE CODES, I WILL HELP YOU! I need to know ALL the codes tho!! I didn't know you had a bunch of codes, thought it was only the 02 sensor code. Put about 30 miles on the car in regular traffic. Make sure the car gets shut off and started a few times in the process. Don't just drive it 30 miles on one trip. fuel trims will change with the new 02 sensor. If you have vacuum or boost leaks fuel trims will be affected in a bad way. Can your scanner tell you what the fuel trims are is real time? you can diag a vacuum leak over a boost leak just by viewing the fuel trims.
userpike I agree he 100% has a fuel trim problem which can be caused by 4 things...
Pulling in too much air.. That could be before or after the maf.
Or loss of air on the fmic side.
Or temperature sensor could be playing up.. When getting a high temperature reading it can lean off a 1.8t on faulty ones. Highly unlikely it's that though..
And lastly it could be a faulty MAF sensor giving bad readings..
I'd go with a boost leak or pulling in too much air..
Easy way to fix this problem is smoke pressure test the car and bingo!!! 😉
A super easy way to check if the problem is the MAF on the 1.8t with Bosch ME7.5 ECUs is unplug it. If the engine smooths out, the MAF is bad. The stock ECU defaults to a map when its MAF input signal isn't within parameters.
Just throw a new MAF housing W/ sensor. Check the pins of the MAF connector. Don't get rid of the mk4 man!
A Lucy channel sounds like a good shout. But wouldn't mind a reveal vid on here for the car. Also channel could possibly be called Lucy35? Or something just putting an idea out there for ya :)
I was at r tech a few weeks ago in the same situation, had my 02 sensor replaced now have no lights on my dash, looking to get mine done on the 23rd onwards
I haven't driven it since deleting the codes so maybe it will help I don't know 😴 Just hope they get back to me 😞
BWTV hopefully you get it sorted, I’ve finished everything for mine to be stage 2, just waiting for r tech to be less busy as they have loads of work at the minute, they tend to reply within a couple days
You can ask R tech for advice they know what they are talking about
Heyy.. I have a 1.8t golf 4 also.. occasionally it runs rough like you describe and with mine it's the vac line from the dump valve, is your dump valve correct for your car with the mods you have.. also, a map might solve it as all the deletes and mods can then be tied together and work as intended.. I hope this helps
Have you checked or changed the coilpack or spark plugs? I have a mk4 golf with the same problem and changed these 2 and it sorted it out.
Meaby your coil packs are toast
"It seems to be running better"
Exactly what my mate said when I did this on his miata 😂
Personally, isn't it running bad because of the n75/249 ( right? )
Delete. That needs to be coded/mapped in too remember?
When my 1.8 idles cold it's always a bit bouncy and loud. The flange on my combi valve is broken so the hose has a leak. Runs fine once I drive it a few minutes.
My BAM also does this... never found the issue. No codes.
disappointed that its somehow ended up with more codes and runs lumpy, still a great video though. Have you checked that the issues aren't anything to do with the deletes you did in the engine bay? Side note, would be nice if your girlfriend had a channel too, where you work on her car as well, just please don't make it click-bait like the fiesta girl's, that channel is incredibly cringy. Her channel, and other owners like her, make me embarrassed to own a mk7 fiesta sometimes.
Ah no what a nightmare, hope you get it sorted soon
Have you checked your Recirc Valve, MAP, MAF, Coilpacks & Plugs?
I like your videos because since 3 weeks iam also a mk4 Driver. Its my first car.👍
Have you cleaned/replaced your MAF mine was very similar issues your having replaced it for an OEM one and problem gone
Had the same problem, changed everything but nothing worked, got told that ive need to change the MAF, and at the end it was the MAF. And on my car the code from the MAF did not come on so gif is a try.
My stock aum only boosted to 7psi. 9 is standard for aum
Loopy idle at cold start is from the sai delete
Could be a boost leak and also your blowofvalve dont set into atmosphere
If not that clean diverter valve
I have vagcom if you want me to check the codes for your car and the sensor will throw a code I believe you need a 90 degree bend to stop the code for the exhaust sensor
keep the vids up mate
How old are your spark plugs? Because my mk4 1.4 litre was running strange and after changing them after about 30.000 km it ran so smoothly
Sometimes you have to drive the car for the ECU to gather the new information from the sensors, it cannot just change the way the car runs straight away man and just clean the MAF again, i clean mine like every couple of weeks.
Check your boost gauge and the lines 👍🏾
Try replacing your spark plugs with new OEM NGK ones that could cause a rough idle
Clean all the inlet out, my mates Cupra R was running like a bag of shit, we cleaned everything up, all the sensors etc and afterwards it drove like shit off a stick and his idle issue went
Is it the temp sensor at the right side of the engine block
Have you changed the spark plugs?
What are the 9 codes and we're they there previously?
Wait have you checked your air intake before the throttlebody ? There is 1 small cable that goes below the throttle body that might have slipped out.
I'll have another look, I think I know the one you're talking about 🤔
I had lumpy idle and low boost when the rigid pipe to the charcoal canister was cracked, not sure why, I'm pretty sure you can just delete it. Also did you change your coilpacks? are you getting a misfire code? if so what cylinder are you getting it on? I've had coilpacks go dead after less than a year, what condition are your plugs in?
uk-mkivs.net/topic/67671-charcoal-canister-delete-advice/
last thing which is a common MPG issue and poor starting, coolant temp sensor
My golf gti does the same, with slight throttle in traffic it’s like it boosts but then goes sluggish almost only happens with slight throttle going slow, have you managed to sort this cause it might be where I could look? on a scanner don’t have no codes but it doesn’t feel right, I think it may be a air leak or something?
Last time I drove it it was still doing it sadly 😩
Hay i had the exact same prob. Sounds stupid and all but try running the stock airbox for a week or so
I've heard this before, think I'm gonna give it a go 👌
BWTV yeah man got nothing to lose
If you have aftermarket intercooler you need the sensor if not the car will run like shit the sensor if located on intercooler
Lumpy idle? I bought a PCV delete from VAG tuners last Sunday and lumpy idle was gone. (2.0tfsi A4)
Either change the PCV for a new one because they're prone to the diaphragm breaking/leaking. Or buy a delete 👌
I’m not a mechanic but I think it could be EGR valve. Great video though 👍
Kidding right ahahha? It's a petrol
I think she should have her own channel. '"The female perspective to VW ownership" So if you ever have the urge to say something is "cute or pretty" or anything to devalue your masculine side. let her say it. you feel it, she says it, you both happy.YAAY!!!.( you could put "YAAY" on the list of things only she should say)
😂😂 This is the best reason why she should make a channel
A Yeah really cant wait untill i have main so i’m going 2 enjoy yours
When you cleaned the throttle body out did you get the parameters reset ?. Would try a Maf sensor if not . It's not always a surefire way disconnecting it to see if it's bad or not.
No I didn't, I think I'm gonna give it a clean again and then find someone who can reset it for me, thanks for the idea 👍
BWTV no worries you will need vagcom to do it Correctly. Mine was intermittently not boosting . Thought my PCV had a leak somewhere. Disconnect the MAF and it pulled like a train 😁
Also if you have the secondary air pump still connected that would probably be the rough idle on start up and it's normal. Sounds like a Henry hoover for about 30seconds and it idles high. It's pumping air in to help warm the cat up to prolong it's life
I think he's a video where he deleted it but still had it in place, then removed it when he installed the FMIC
I guess the TDI engine doesnt need to be fixed this much but i still like the 1.8t
If you’re describing it as lumpy I’d be looking at the ignition (spark plugs/ coilpack/injectors) check all wiring. Start with the simple stuff bro
coilpack? injectors? Ive got an astra that constantly does the same. Usually new coilpacks or injectors fix it
This is what i do for misfires
ruclips.net/video/t1DyttsPr38/видео.html
03:16 - this could be the problem. You might be burning oil on cylinder 2. I had an Audi A4 2.0L a while back with the same coilpack, started to notice a rough idle and then had problems starting. Turns out a spark plug was covered in oil as yours were when you serviced the car. You might want to look into it. I might be wrong. Good Luck.
Spark plugs?
Prob your EGT sensor
EDIT - Also clean your fuel pressure regulator
hi mate test for a vacuum leak? and MAF
have you tried resetting ecu?
Try putting on the orginal airbox :)
check the coil pack
Here Early ! :) Love the GTI btw
Thank you 😁🙌
100% sure it’s your boost sensor
It might be a bad n75 valve
taking my car in tomorrow to get fixed
Dude change the spark plugs and that sorta shit. if it misfired maybe coil packs are shit housed.
If it’s not plugged in all the way it will do that
love it
Check your boost send
Coils, ignition loom, plugs
Make her own channel and milk it. I would. Im not ashamed.
Maybe it's your performance fuel pump