No point really. Once you seen one video on it on youtube you seen it all. They will not say anything negative about any bikes they make a video on because they want to attract people to the bike and buy them which helps make them money too
I honestly don't know what they were thinking. The signal and horn should be on the left and thumb throttle on the right. The ride was harsh due to the lack of front suspension. I mean C'mon, it's 2024. also once you let go the throttle and bike will still powered and kept going on it's own for a few seconds which I find this to be extremely dangerous. The only pros on this ebike was the e shift which is revolutionary.
Maybe it's me but I feel automatic shifting should be done electronically and not cable shifted. Seems kinda clunky to it that way. Like enviolo Shimano and so on so automatic via electronic to make do way more accurate shifts and quicker to keep up with the rpm. With electric derailleur the sensor knows the exact gear and it's relying on the cable tension I assume to know the gear
John here. I'd say you're correct in thinking that the Vika's shifting system isn't quite the same as those you're referencing, but we also typically don't see electronic shifting on bikes in this price range. What Blix has done is seriously cool for a bike that's still affordable for many folks out there!
@@ElectricBikeReport but that cable is eventually going to stretch. So how much of a pain is it to change it? How does it actually know which gear it is in? Seems like it's going to be a big pain as it gets used more and more. Like what happens if the derailleur breaks? Like do I need a very specific micro shift one. If it skips a gear or a has a bad shift can it auto correct? Can you shift under load? You guys barely went into this system at all. That's the selling point of the bike and like it was barely talked about.
Blix's setup seems to be a motorized index shifter design. In a way (presuming they "own" this piece) this prevents vendor lock-in on their side as they could #define the cable shift interval to match whichever derailleur they'd want to interface with. It probably relies on physical tuning but no different than every other non-electronic shifter system. It is physically and power wired so user doesn't have to worry about charging a derailleur. For the bike's target market, don't under estimate the draw of "good enough" performance. I would have liked to see in the review how/if the auto-shift mode handles downshifting when slowing down to a stop, of the bike just stops at high gear and eventually downshifts once rider starts up again. Since its a hub motor its probably not a big deal either way since its not going to send 500W+ pedal assist through the chain.
@@ElectricBikeReport Note that I did not go there, specifically better deals, that are tailored to meet specific need for the various consumer requirements, exist, and if you *do your own* research, that becomes apparent. Size of motors, amount of torque, cadence v torque sensor, rear rack weight limits, quality of suspension, presets, suspension in the rear? Seat? Seat comfortable? 4" v 3" tires, 20" 24" or 26" tires, road or trail tread? Spoke vs cast wheels, lighting requirements (or lack), battery size, UL listed?, dual battery?, security options, display/software options, etc. A ton of options are out there. My point is not to steer towards one bike or another. Just pointing out, that for the options provided by *this* ebike, you can buy at a better price point elsewhere. YMMV
The electric shifting and auto-shifting are the least attractive features of this ebike. I’d trade those for a decent suspension fork and a more secure safety latch for the frame hinge. For a class 3 capable e-bike that uses a torque sensor, the gearing is insufficient for speeds above 20mph, perhaps even 16mph. That’s an issue for the Mokwheel Slate as well, which I’ve compared against this. Despite using a cadence sensor, the Ride1Up Portola compares favorably. 8 gears vs. 7, a small 11 tooth rear cog for higher speeds, a strong rear rack, decent suspension fork. Though it uses a cadence sensor, it controls via power not speed targets, and can be set to as many as 9 PAS levels. It’s not a torque sensor system, but manually approximates one when configured to 7 or 9 power levels. Does require more button presses to switch levels though. 😅 Now, if they offered a version with a torque sensor for just $100 more, that’d be a great folding ebike, even more so if their software in the display let you switch between torque and cadence mode (you can treat the input from the torque sensor as an on/off signal for cadence sensor mode) like some models are doing.
14 дней назад
Have they improved the battery, specifically the cheap, low quality BMS? 🥸🥸🥸
Thank you for this thorough discussion!
Thanks for watching!
Will you be doing a video like this for the Lectric ONE?
No point really. Once you seen one video on it on youtube you seen it all. They will not say anything negative about any bikes they make a video on because they want to attract people to the bike and buy them which helps make them money too
What average speed are two range test numbers based on?
I honestly don't know what they were thinking. The signal and horn should be on the left and thumb throttle on the right. The ride was harsh due to the lack of front suspension. I mean C'mon, it's 2024. also once you let go the throttle and bike will still powered and kept going on it's own for a few seconds which I find this to be extremely dangerous. The only pros on this ebike was the e shift which is revolutionary.
Maybe it's me but I feel automatic shifting should be done electronically and not cable shifted. Seems kinda clunky to it that way. Like enviolo Shimano and so on so automatic via electronic to make do way more accurate shifts and quicker to keep up with the rpm. With electric derailleur the sensor knows the exact gear and it's relying on the cable tension I assume to know the gear
John here. I'd say you're correct in thinking that the Vika's shifting system isn't quite the same as those you're referencing, but we also typically don't see electronic shifting on bikes in this price range. What Blix has done is seriously cool for a bike that's still affordable for many folks out there!
@@ElectricBikeReport but that cable is eventually going to stretch. So how much of a pain is it to change it? How does it actually know which gear it is in? Seems like it's going to be a big pain as it gets used more and more. Like what happens if the derailleur breaks? Like do I need a very specific micro shift one. If it skips a gear or a has a bad shift can it auto correct? Can you shift under load? You guys barely went into this system at all. That's the selling point of the bike and like it was barely talked about.
Blix's setup seems to be a motorized index shifter design. In a way (presuming they "own" this piece) this prevents vendor lock-in on their side as they could #define the cable shift interval to match whichever derailleur they'd want to interface with. It probably relies on physical tuning but no different than every other non-electronic shifter system. It is physically and power wired so user doesn't have to worry about charging a derailleur. For the bike's target market, don't under estimate the draw of "good enough" performance.
I would have liked to see in the review how/if the auto-shift mode handles downshifting when slowing down to a stop, of the bike just stops at high gear and eventually downshifts once rider starts up again. Since its a hub motor its probably not a big deal either way since its not going to send 500W+ pedal assist through the chain.
Why does antone need to go so fast.?
To keep up with traffic
At that price point ($1600), there are a number of much better choices out there, where you'd actually get your money's worth.
What bikes do you have in mind?
@@ElectricBikeReport Note that I did not go there, specifically better deals, that are tailored to meet specific need for the various consumer requirements, exist, and if you *do your own* research, that becomes apparent.
Size of motors, amount of torque, cadence v torque sensor, rear rack weight limits, quality of suspension, presets, suspension in the rear? Seat? Seat comfortable? 4" v 3" tires, 20" 24" or 26" tires, road or trail tread? Spoke vs cast wheels, lighting requirements (or lack), battery size, UL listed?, dual battery?, security options, display/software options, etc.
A ton of options are out there. My point is not to steer towards one bike or another.
Just pointing out, that for the options provided by *this* ebike, you can buy at a better price point elsewhere.
YMMV
The electric shifting and auto-shifting are the least attractive features of this ebike. I’d trade those for a decent suspension fork and a more secure safety latch for the frame hinge.
For a class 3 capable e-bike that uses a torque sensor, the gearing is insufficient for speeds above 20mph, perhaps even 16mph. That’s an issue for the Mokwheel Slate as well, which I’ve compared against this.
Despite using a cadence sensor, the Ride1Up Portola compares favorably. 8 gears vs. 7, a small 11 tooth rear cog for higher speeds, a strong rear rack, decent suspension fork. Though it uses a cadence sensor, it controls via power not speed targets, and can be set to as many as 9 PAS levels. It’s not a torque sensor system, but manually approximates one when configured to 7 or 9 power levels. Does require more button presses to switch levels though. 😅 Now, if they offered a version with a torque sensor for just $100 more, that’d be a great folding ebike, even more so if their software in the display let you switch between torque and cadence mode (you can treat the input from the torque sensor as an on/off signal for cadence sensor mode) like some models are doing.
Have they improved the battery, specifically the cheap, low quality BMS? 🥸🥸🥸
We had no issues with the battery - what problems did you encounter?