Quick story about blackstone analysis. I’ve been a skeptic so I ordered a test kit and had my buddy order one also and sent to his address in his name. We pulled fresh samples from the exact same bottle of oil at the exact same time and sent them in under our separate names and addresses. When the “analysis” came back the results weren’t even in the same hemisphere . So far off I calmly called them to tell them what I had done and to get an explanation . They immediately hung up on me. Lol. While I appreciate the info he tried to give in this video and do use redline myself please take it with a very small grain of salt.
Don't know if you guys shook up the oil bottles before using them, many uploads have stated if the oil sits in the container, some of the additives can settle to the bottom.
Here're my thoughts: Amsoil and redline are both excellent but different oil. As for which one is better, it really depends on your needs. Take 5W30 grade for example, Amsoil SS seems to be more suitable for daily driving vehicles (extended drain interval, cleaning capabilities, good cold-start performance, fuel economy, etc.) Their anti-wear related additives don't seem to be much compared to redline but it does have higher TBN. It also has lower viscosity, HTHS and low CCS viscosity, which makes it fuel-efficient and better at cold starting. Redline is another story. It has high viscosity, much higher HTHS, and a lot of ZDDP. It also has high ester content AFAIK. These make it good high-performance oil (very aggressive driving and even on track). But it also has high CCS Viscosity, which makes it not as good at cold-starting. It also seems to have high ash content, which could limit its usability.
I tell you what I been using Amsoil now for a few years and I literally use it in everything. Trucks diesel and gas both my boats side by sides even lawnmower the tractor even chainsaw and weedeater. This stuff is great I started it in my trucks noticing the trucks I wasn’t having to add any oil between oil changes first off. Then started putting it in everything else noticing samething no oil added between changes. Ok so then I start the oil sample bit on everything samething coming back with better numbers on my reports. Basically after using for about 3 years now in literally everything I own Im a believer in Amsoil.
Same as you except i switched from amsoil to Schaeffer and will never pook back. Amsoil rep here on youtube has a video of schaeffer 75w-90 and 85w-140 both beating the amsoil. The best video was the 15w40 the rotella t4 which is their conventional oil beats amsoil in cold pour and its not even their synthetic line. Amsoil is good oil but its not the best 💯
My buddy has 900k miles on his dodge ram Cummins he's ran amsoil since 45k he blew head gasket at 700k the cylinders still had factory etching in them. He pulls 90% of the time and still going strong , let us know when you have some real world testimonials we can compare.
@@jimkline746 again factory etchings like zero wear after 700k miles thats impressive ill see if he still has the picture I think he took some after being shocked.
A guy had a chevy sprinter van that went 900k miles but nothing was wrong with engine, had a valve keeper broke. His transmission had over 1.5 million miles on it as of 3 years ago, using Amsoil ATF.
I’d like to see a todays version of these 2 oils , also just buy the oil from your local parts store, and I’m sure both oils have reasons why they have less or more of certain additives, but IMO amsoil signature series is king
How about test an ATV vs a Motorcycle oil from the same manufacture and the same rating (SG JASO MA)? Is it really different or do they put the same oil in two different bottles?
The pyrimid scheme comment was interesting. I kind of noticed the same thing. I had a good experience with the oil itself though. A buddy gave me a box of maybe 10 quarts for like 20 bucks and it performed better than my penzoil platinum
It is interesting that people bring up the issue of a pyrimid scheme. I have worked in retail and warehousing, and nearly every product you buy is sold multiple times. Online purchases can be far worse. The oil company bottles the oil, and makes money, then they ship it to their warehouse. Their warehouse makes a profit when they ship it to an international warehouse. the international warehouse ships it to the store warehouse where they make money when they ship it to their store. Then the store often makes over 100% profit. This is far worse than the way Amsoil markets their oil.
It’s not a pyramid scheme it’s a direct purchase from the manufacturer, you’re paying a membership for free shipping and reduced cost, the benefit from a soul perspective is you are more likely to buy other lubricants from them do to your membership. You can also purchase without being a member, and there is no “upline/down line” it’s literally like paying a Sam’s club or Costco membership to get member pricing to keep you coming back. You can also sign up to be a dealer but you have to sell their product at MSRP or lose your dealer benefits. Most high performance shops are dealers, just have to ask around your area, but they will probably do drop shipment for you after you buy so finding in store is kind of rare.
When you spend $500 in your final membership year. Your renewal is free. Amsoil sells more than automobile oils. When you have daily drivers. Light truck,atv,strip&street car,motorcycle, race car,diesel toter you'll exceed $500 easily. Amsoil comes with bucks back program perks.
And it's not hard to get upto 500.00 when you use your memory others like friends and family. That's why the membership was designed. If yiu6want to continue to by MSRP price that's ok. You may not want to help others get a better price and that's ok. Do what's best for you and your wallet.
I swear by amsoil , I've been using it from the early 80s in our jet boat , my old shovel head, s , a d 7 Silverados ,and now a 2015 Silverado HD 6.6 and I would never use anything else , bill from philly,and myrtle beach sc
I use both redline & Amsoil and i find Amsoil very easy to get I order Amsoil on Monday & its on my front door Wednesday 5w40 euro less than 7.dollars a quart
Data is isolated to each application. Red line is a fine product. But I would not switch from amsoil over one report.. Many studies I have seen comparing amsoil to any brand shows amsoil way ahead . I have proved it myself in several different engines of my own But great video .
I use Amsoil too but I haven't been working for the last eleven months and Amsoil has risen their prices. I live in Canada and I believe they have to pay more for transportation but I don't drive that much right now. Since everybody in the USA is swearing by Amsoil I would like to compare Amsoil to German Ravenol oils. Most of the oils from Ravenol are 100% PAO-based oils and they have the biggest selection of oils that I'm aware of any other company.
I have a buddy that has close to 900k miles on his 99 dodge ram Cummings he has ran amsoil since break in around 45k miles . He blew a head gasket at around 700k miles and after pulling the heads off and looking down the barrels he could still see the factory etching in the cylinder walls. He's had this truck banks since 100k miles and it pulls trailers most of the time, he just put in his 4th trans and truck is still going strong. He does his oil changes every 25k miles so take that for what it's worth let me know when you have real world bud you can compare to.
Yes bro I rebuilt a 300,000 Mi 302 that had ran Mobil 1 synthetic it's whole life and it still had the factory hone marks on the cylinder walls no copper showing in the main bearings the engine looked almost new still!!! So I believe what your buddy told you it's absolutely true! I also just switched to Amsoil always ran mobile one because of what I seen But Amsoil is even better and it's available locally for me now
Mike, Triax and Primrose motor oils have Moly in them. So does Torco. Primrose makes a viscous additive with their Moly-D in it. Then there is Liqui-Moly which has the black moly in it.
I get your premise that a higher average of some additives means the oil is better, but that doesn’t play out in real world engine testing and industry standard wear tests. It’s the over all formulation of the oil that matters most, as some additives can counter other additives in their role in the engine and the protection they provide. Amsoil has shown lower levels of wear in tests, even though Red Line has a higher level of ZDDP. Amsoil Signature Series produced a smaller wear scar than Red Line in the Project Farm test, so more ZDDP isn’t necessary better.
Amsoil can be pricy yes. But, transmissions and engines, rear/front differentials and transfer cases ALL can be VERY expensive to replace. Therefore, I will use Amsoil. It is expensive yes but, it is the best. And I've used everything over my 62 yrs. I'll never use anything but Amsoil and I DO TRUST their extended mileage claims 100% after witnessing it myself.
Amsoil was the first to mass produce ground vehicle synthetic lubricants. They set the bar. They are the masters. There are other good oils for sure but name and sponsorship alone do not determine performance.
Be carefully guys. Video is great, but gives you wrong impression. :) Additives are very important, however, they depend on base stock used. In some cases more of certain type is needed, in some cases very little or not required at all. You can't measure quality of oil just comparing number and amount of additives. This is just as far from reality as you can get. Base stock characteristics dictate additives needed and their compatibility. As a good simple example if stock composite is naturally provides multi grade characteristics, polymers thickeners are not needed or needed very little. Even without them these base stocks are much better because they do not have polymers that are easy sheer down moving oil out of grade, burn providing more deposits etc. The same for cleaning agents, friction reducers etc. It is not as simple as it looks. In addition it is always compromises and tradeoffs and at different temperatures. More cleaning scraping agents, more friction, but better cleaning. Etc. For actual comparison oils best to be tested as a whole package in real environment by taking used oil analyzes or close emulating real conditions. I worked in that field...
I have been using Amsoil products for 7 years now and only have beyond excellent satisfaction results, your evaluation based on how many PPM's in a category of elements in your attempt to show a winner by "more is better" is just plain scary rational. Also, let me correct you for your incorrect statement on purchasing Amsoil, You do not require a membership to purchase, I have one because I'm purchasing for (4) personal cars. 2 service pickups, 3 service vans, shop compressors, and my neighbor's lawnmower. and this includes all transmissions & differentials and it saves over 20 times the amount of the annual membership, and this is just the starting point, Over a 3 year period the fuel usage compared to what those same vehicles were consumed in the same environment dropped 20.3 % based on gallons used per miles driven to 3 years previous, and this doesn't include how smooth they all perform Soooooo?? Show me a column that shows me switching from Mobil #1 was a bad choice.
Hmm.. but regardless of the ingredients, if Amsoil has 2 points higher TBN score, and apparently Amsoil has a better TEOST Score and Better 4 Ball Wear test, but Redline has 2% less evaporation (which is great feature), then Amsoil would be the winner, if add up real world testing and not ingredient numbers... :-)
Is there any findings of calcium ever doing any harm to any engine? Sure seems to be what you are paying for in the Amsoil.. Is that any indication for its great TBN number at virgin state? Just Curious. THANX for the money spent and time taken to make this video!👍
I just saw an oil analysis of Total Quartz 7000 Semi Syn 10W40 and it's calcium was at 3773, Moli B 109, TBN 11, Zinc through the roof 1307... What does MoliB do for the oil ?
I never try to run nothing but amsoil , but you hit it on the head , people swear by thier brands ,and they will always use the same , either way , you got it right
Started out using RP when I got into HQ oils. A local shop sells all Amsoil and sold me on it, also saying RP is 💩 lol My next oil change will be with Ams.
@@anthonybauman5233 🤷🏻 I’ve clocked about 15k on a brand new car. Would be 20k but 5k was factory oil. No issues to comment on except product being hard to find locally, especially filters. Second car about 6k-9k so far with RP. First 3k with the regular then the rest with HMX. 125k current miles.
Let's see how they perform during and after, not a pre-analysis. Let's see how the motor looks after an oil change. Let's see what's in the oil after that and how it is standing up. How much is needed of a particular additive and how much is too much?
360,000 miles on the engine and only use Amsoil a few times. Otherwise I used over 30 different synthetic off the shelf oils and the engine was clean as it would be from the factory. So yeah hype on AMSOIL. Oh by the way those oils were ran 10,000 miles per oil change.
That's exactly what I'm wondering. Red Line looks like excellent oil to protect the engine. The only two standard brands of oils from the North American market available in Germany with 100% Synthetic labels are the Amsoil Signature Series and some types of Red Line Synthetic oil. The engine oils not made from PAO stock base are not allowed to use 100% Synthetic labels. They can only label those Full Synthetic or Synthese only.
They are both great for their intent of use. This is the elephant in the room when testing amsoil it's 100% synthetic. Redline is full synthetic. Not an equal comparison.
I just watched a video on another channel. Sent in Amsoil after 5000 miles, then he sent in redline after 5000 miles to be analyzed. Red line literally destroyed Amsoil signature series in every way. And I only use Amsoil. But now I’m wondering…
Used oil analysis is only relevant for the vehicle or equipment the oil sample came from. There are a myriad of variables when trying to compare used motor oil from two different vehicles, or even the same vehicle. Time, humidity, temperature, cold starts, load, speed, fuel used, fuel additives uses, etc., all can have significant effects on a motor oil and since none of these many variables are controlled, this means used oil analysis test result comparisons are not valid.
Amsoil formulates and measures performance based on testing, testing and more testing. When something works, it just works. Amsoil is worth every penny. Motor Oil, ATF, gear lube it all gives significant improvement to your vehicle.
I’ve never tested Redline before but I have tested Amsoil thru Blackstone. My oil sample was from a new car with only 3000 miles. I have noticed some discrepancies between your sample and my sample even though yours is virgin. Molybdenum in my sample is 311 while it’s 154 in your sample. How is mine higher after 3000 miles? My magnesium is 709 and yours is 14. My zinc is 771 and yours is 761. How does my zinc go up 10 points after 3000 miles? My calcium is 1351 and yours is 3356. Why such a drastic drop after 3000 miles? My silicon is 60 and yours is 3. My phosphorus is 711 and yours is 737. Your virgin TBN is 11.2 and my TBN is 5.0 after 3000 miles in a brand new car. My flashpoint was the same 425 after 3000 miles. And I used the same oil. Amsoil Signature Series 0W20. I don’t think the 0W20 vs 5w20 should have different additive amounts. Anyway, next time send Blackstone a virgin sample of Amsoil and don’t tell them what kind of oil it is. Or tell them it’s Castrol Syntec. Let’s see if the virgin sample is the same. I’m not too sure about the accuracy of their analysis??? The discrepancies just don’t make sense.
Because the additives get used up during use and I ran my oils to 10-12K miles vice changing it at 3K. Anyone can get great results at 3K miles in testing on walmart oil so your testing is way too early to even show if the oil is any good.
@@MACTFordEdge That’s the discrepancy. If additives are used up during use, than why is my Molybdenum, silicon and Zinc higher than your virgin sample?
@@BW-kv9wj Because you have residual from other oils or the formulation was changed. IT would be anything that was in the engine previously. Residual additives remain when doing oil changes from one brand to another.
I've had mixed results from Blackstone analysis as well. They never read fuel dilution correctly, so they have people with EcoBoost/GTDI extending their oil changes out to 10k miles incorrectly. One person posted their 0W-20 results from Blackstone with 11k-13k mile change intervals and it was clear the viscosity was thicker than average with a very low TBN, yet Blackstone said continue this change interval... Engine oil tends to thin out initially when its ready to be changed due to fuel dilution, etc... and then begins to thicken as its on its way out. That 0W-20 in the sample should have been changed far earlier. Also these 5W-20s in the oil samples in the video have way too much calcium for modern standards. API SP and ILSAC GF-6A should cut those down dramatically. Toyota found Calcium to contribute to LSPI which is bad juju for GTDI engines. Most oil formulations started to reduce calcium prior to API SP/ GF-6A (which came into market around May 2020).
I ran conventional oil in my 1991 Ford Ranger ...sold it with 240,000 miles and the guy i sold it to still drives it in 2021...... High Price expensive oils are not needed.
@toddbob55 - AMSOIL synthetic motor oils can save substantial sums of money in reduced oil change costs and improved fuel economy. It's the cheap oils that are expensive.
If formula was changed, what use of this information? Historical? Calcium higher than 1000 - can cause I'm direct injection detonation between rings. (Fresh information ~2yo). Too much is not good.
I liked the hard data of the virgin oil comparison. I thought the assumption of the sum of PPM demonstrated superiority of a particular oil formula was extremely naïve. The ‘observation’ that one oil required a membership to buy is just wrong and you demonstrated that by buying yours at a retail store. I have used both companies’ products in the past (probably 15 years ago were the last purchases), but as quality synthetic oils are now mainstream and available at good prices at common stores - I don’t find it necessary anymore. Good luck on your channel - cheers!
Amsoil is 100 % synthetic, Red Line is not, Remember manufacturers can legally get by with only about 25 % synthetic and call it Full synthetic don't be fooled, this oil comparison is not apples to apples. Do the research if it matters to you..
I have documented and used over 30 brands and types of oils in my 3.5 Duratec that currently has over 333,000 miles on the original engine. The engine in my most recent video's has no varnishing and looks like it came out of the factory. The off the shelf oils were "synthetic marketed" oils you can buy anywhere. Even used John Deere Turf guard oil in the Duratec. Only use AMSOIL twice and one time the metal wear was the worst I have ever experienced in any oil testing.
I found some free amsoil. But I still change my oil every year. I drive on a island. No race track here. So I ordered a race truck on mainland. Now I just have to travel. I hope it can pop wheelies.
This video was a complete rejection of anything that vaguely represents anything remotely useful. You read a cue card on additives that you don’t know or understand the relationship between the chemical composition or the relationship they have with use in the real world. Redline got knocked out of Project Farms oil championship in the second round by Pennzoil. The Pennzoil that beat it out was there ultra synthetic which is very good oil. AMSOIL beat the Pennzoil as well as every other oil in an assortment in real world tests. Quite a few of the oils out performed the redline in the wear tests. More isn’t better, better is better and AMSOIL is just better at performing the duties required by oils in real world conditions. The composition values prove it has a composition, the real world tests prove AMSOIL is superior. Redline is still better oil than Mobile one or Valvoline but there are still run of the mill brands that can be plucked of the shelf at Walmart that can resist wear and just flat out perform Redline and for less money. The Pennzoil ultra synthetic that out performed the Redline is about $40 for 6qts and an excellent oil and an even better value. The oil guy channel from the guy oil companies and racing teams contract to formulate oils gives it high regards and recommends it. Not trying to pee on anyone’s parade but let actual use and testing be a guide, not a cue card listing vague composition. A greasy turd could be listed under anti-wear package!😂😂. Don’t mistake Redlines talk for Amsoil’s walk. Have a great day everyone and get out and enjoy the tools and toys you drive. 👍👍
Why in the world would I pay an outrages price for eather one and Pennsoil is a lot cheaper and its blended and made with natural gas and less hydrocarbon dirt? $26.00 versis $50.00. Thanks great test Phone call did it all.
Amsoil is only one percent better than Pennzoil cost 60%percent more and extended change ruins engine Quickly older oil contains acid/water/gasoline/and debris from cold starting want to kill engine use extended oil changes ala Amsaoil.
You it’s so clear you don’t know anything about oil. The lab numbers don’t tell anything about performance. Lab numbers are good for seeing how your oil is aging but it doesn’t tell you “the best oil” by any means. You need a balance of additives! More additives means you actually get less oil by volume!
For me, Amsoil is like Amway. They have good stuff, but its over priced and you can get better overall products for less money. If only because of the MLM crap with Amsoil, that I'll never use any of their products.
Unless you are involved in it, you sont fully understand the fundamentals. It is not multi level marketing. It works in a way like that but its more about giving you the freedom to market and no ‘major buy ins’. Most MLM schemes require a huge buy in and monthly/quarterly minimums. Amsoil has nothing like that.
Your comment is absolutely correct. It is by far over priced. The only reason it is this way is because the “Amsoil dealers” have to make a profit because they won’t sell it at your local store. which is stupid… And don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.
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Quick story about blackstone analysis. I’ve been a skeptic so I ordered a test kit and had my buddy order one also and sent to his address in his name. We pulled fresh samples from the exact same bottle of oil at the exact same time and sent them in under our separate names and addresses. When the “analysis” came back the results weren’t even in the same hemisphere . So far off I calmly called them to tell them what I had done and to get an explanation . They immediately hung up on me. Lol. While I appreciate the info he tried to give in this video and do use redline myself please take it with a very small grain of salt.
I’d like to see proof.
Don't know if you guys shook up the oil bottles before using them, many uploads have stated if the oil sits in the container, some of the additives can settle to the bottom.
If what you say is true . A investigation is needed on them. THERE'S no excuse.
When I worked a shop, we used CAT for all oil analysis. Across the board - regardless of engine mfg. Very much liked them.
They were good to me man idk what happened there.
Here're my thoughts: Amsoil and redline are both excellent but different oil. As for which one is better, it really depends on your needs. Take 5W30 grade for example, Amsoil SS seems to be more suitable for daily driving vehicles (extended drain interval, cleaning capabilities, good cold-start performance, fuel economy, etc.) Their anti-wear related additives don't seem to be much compared to redline but it does have higher TBN. It also has lower viscosity, HTHS and low CCS viscosity, which makes it fuel-efficient and better at cold starting. Redline is another story. It has high viscosity, much higher HTHS, and a lot of ZDDP. It also has high ester content AFAIK. These make it good high-performance oil (very aggressive driving and even on track). But it also has high CCS Viscosity, which makes it not as good at cold-starting. It also seems to have high ash content, which could limit its usability.
I tell you what I been using Amsoil now for a few years and I literally use it in everything. Trucks diesel and gas both my boats side by sides even lawnmower the tractor even chainsaw and weedeater. This stuff is great I started it in my trucks noticing the trucks I wasn’t having to add any oil between oil changes first off. Then started putting it in everything else noticing samething no oil added between changes. Ok so then I start the oil sample bit on everything samething coming back with better numbers on my reports. Basically after using for about 3 years now in literally everything I own Im a believer in Amsoil.
Same as you except i switched from amsoil to Schaeffer and will never pook back.
Amsoil rep here on youtube has a video of schaeffer 75w-90 and 85w-140 both beating the amsoil.
The best video was the 15w40 the rotella t4 which is their conventional oil beats amsoil in cold pour and its not even their synthetic line.
Amsoil is good oil but its not the best 💯
My buddy has 900k miles on his dodge ram Cummins he's ran amsoil since 45k he blew head gasket at 700k the cylinders still had factory etching in them. He pulls 90% of the time and still going strong , let us know when you have some real world testimonials we can compare.
Diesel engines go way longer the gas engines anyway
@@economynotstable I think it’s because diesel fuel, per se, is a lubricant.
@@jimkline746 again factory etchings like zero wear after 700k miles thats impressive ill see if he still has the picture I think he took some after being shocked.
@@sdshawn29 it’s impressive to myself as well. I’ve used Amsoil a few times and liked it
A guy had a chevy sprinter van that went 900k miles but nothing was wrong with engine, had a valve keeper broke. His transmission had over 1.5 million miles on it as of 3 years ago, using Amsoil ATF.
I’d like to see a todays version of these 2 oils , also just buy the oil from your local parts store, and I’m sure both oils have reasons why they have less or more of certain additives, but IMO amsoil signature series is king
How about test an ATV vs a Motorcycle oil from the same manufacture and the same rating (SG JASO MA)? Is it really different or do they put the same oil in two different bottles?
The pyrimid scheme comment was interesting. I kind of noticed the same thing. I had a good experience with the oil itself though. A buddy gave me a box of maybe 10 quarts for like 20 bucks and it performed better than my penzoil platinum
In what kind of vehicle?
@@jeffreyzabawski4862 1.6t ecoboost with some mods and tune
It is interesting that people bring up the issue of a pyrimid scheme. I have worked in retail and warehousing, and nearly every product you buy is sold multiple times. Online purchases can be far worse. The oil company bottles the oil, and makes money, then they ship it to their warehouse. Their warehouse makes a profit when they ship it to an international warehouse. the international warehouse ships it to the store warehouse where they make money when they ship it to their store. Then the store often makes over 100% profit. This is far worse than the way Amsoil markets their oil.
@@oiladviseguyif they don't want to be called a pyrimid scheme then they should stop operating exactly like one
It’s not a pyramid scheme it’s a direct purchase from the manufacturer, you’re paying a membership for free shipping and reduced cost, the benefit from a soul perspective is you are more likely to buy other lubricants from them do to your membership. You can also purchase without being a member, and there is no “upline/down line” it’s literally like paying a Sam’s club or Costco membership to get member pricing to keep you coming back. You can also sign up to be a dealer but you have to sell their product at MSRP or lose your dealer benefits. Most high performance shops are dealers, just have to ask around your area, but they will probably do drop shipment for you after you buy so finding in store is kind of rare.
When you spend $500 in your final membership year. Your renewal is free. Amsoil sells more than automobile oils. When you have daily drivers. Light truck,atv,strip&street car,motorcycle, race car,diesel toter you'll exceed $500 easily. Amsoil comes with bucks back program perks.
And it's not hard to get upto 500.00 when you use your memory others like friends and family. That's why the membership was designed. If yiu6want to continue to by MSRP price that's ok. You may not want to help others get a better price and that's ok. Do what's best for you and your wallet.
I swear by amsoil , I've been using it from the early 80s in our jet boat , my old shovel head, s , a d 7 Silverados ,and now a 2015 Silverado HD 6.6 and I would never use anything else , bill from philly,and myrtle beach sc
I use both redline & Amsoil and i find Amsoil very easy to get I order Amsoil on Monday & its on my front door Wednesday 5w40 euro less than 7.dollars a quart
Amsoil the best oil on the planet in my opinion
Data is isolated to each application.
Red line is a fine product.
But I would not switch from amsoil over one report..
Many studies I have seen comparing amsoil to any brand shows amsoil way ahead .
I have proved it myself in several different engines of my own
But great video .
🎯
I use Amsoil too but I haven't been working for the last eleven months and Amsoil has risen their prices. I live in Canada and I believe they have to pay more for transportation but I don't drive that much right now.
Since everybody in the USA is swearing by Amsoil I would like to compare Amsoil to German Ravenol oils. Most of the oils from Ravenol are 100% PAO-based oils and they have the biggest selection of oils that I'm aware of any other company.
AMSOIL isnt hard to buy. Just contact me or another dealer! :) Dont believe the hate!
👍🏼
There are limits for these additives as excessive detergent concentrations can cause issues with ash deposits from the detergent itself.
I have a buddy that has close to 900k miles on his 99 dodge ram Cummings he has ran amsoil since break in around 45k miles . He blew a head gasket at around 700k miles and after pulling the heads off and looking down the barrels he could still see the factory etching in the cylinder walls.
He's had this truck banks since 100k miles and it pulls trailers most of the time, he just put in his 4th trans and truck is still going strong. He does his oil changes every 25k miles so take that for what it's worth let me know when you have real world bud you can compare to.
U bet
Yes bro I rebuilt a 300,000 Mi 302 that had ran Mobil 1 synthetic it's whole life and it still had the factory hone marks on the cylinder walls no copper showing in the main bearings the engine looked almost new still!!! So I believe what your buddy told you it's absolutely true! I also just switched to Amsoil always ran mobile one because of what I seen But Amsoil is even better and it's available locally for me now
Next project: New Valvoline formula(s)!!!
Hello dear friend. I want to know if Redline oils can be used in Hyundai mpi motor vehicles?
I need a high moly content for my Hemis . Amsoil definitely lacks in this aspect. What other choice is there but Redline?
Tribodyne.
amsoil makes a 'classic car' oil specifically for this
Royal Purple HPS
Mike, Triax and Primrose motor oils have Moly in them. So does Torco. Primrose makes a viscous additive with their Moly-D in it. Then there is Liqui-Moly which has the black moly in it.
Schaeffer oil
I get your premise that a higher average of some additives means the oil is better, but that doesn’t play out in real world engine testing and industry standard wear tests. It’s the over all formulation of the oil that matters most, as some additives can counter other additives in their role in the engine and the protection they provide. Amsoil has shown lower levels of wear in tests, even though Red Line has a higher level of ZDDP. Amsoil Signature Series produced a smaller wear scar than Red Line in the Project Farm test, so more ZDDP isn’t necessary better.
Amsoil can be pricy yes. But, transmissions and engines, rear/front differentials and
transfer cases ALL can be VERY expensive to replace.
Therefore, I will use Amsoil. It is expensive yes but, it is the best.
And I've used everything over my 62 yrs.
I'll never use anything but Amsoil and I DO TRUST their extended mileage claims 100% after witnessing
it myself.
Amsoil was the first to mass produce ground vehicle synthetic lubricants. They set the bar. They are the masters. There are other good oils for sure but name and sponsorship alone do not determine performance.
Thanks for the video. So what oil did you test that has the same amount of moly but is cheaper?
I guess valvoline
Be carefully guys. Video is great, but gives you wrong impression. :) Additives are very important, however, they depend on base stock used. In some cases more of certain type is needed, in some cases very little or not required at all. You can't measure quality of oil just comparing number and amount of additives. This is just as far from reality as you can get. Base stock characteristics dictate additives needed and their compatibility. As a good simple example if stock composite is naturally provides multi grade characteristics, polymers thickeners are not needed or needed very little. Even without them these base stocks are much better because they do not have polymers that are easy sheer down moving oil out of grade, burn providing more deposits etc. The same for cleaning agents, friction reducers etc. It is not as simple as it looks. In addition it is always compromises and tradeoffs and at different temperatures. More cleaning scraping agents, more friction, but better cleaning. Etc. For actual comparison oils best to be tested as a whole package in real environment by taking used oil analyzes or close emulating real conditions. I worked in that field...
absolutely correct
What were the TBN numbers? Which had the best base oil? With better base, additives aren’t always necessary.
I have been using Amsoil products for 7 years now and only have beyond excellent satisfaction results, your evaluation based on how many PPM's in a category of elements in your attempt to show a winner by "more is better" is just plain scary rational. Also, let me correct you for your incorrect statement on purchasing Amsoil, You do not require a membership to purchase, I have one because I'm purchasing for (4) personal cars. 2 service pickups, 3 service vans, shop compressors, and my neighbor's lawnmower. and this includes all transmissions & differentials and it saves over 20 times the amount of the annual membership, and this is just the starting point, Over a 3 year period the fuel usage compared to what those same vehicles were consumed in the same environment dropped 20.3 % based on gallons used per miles driven to 3 years previous, and this doesn't include how smooth they all perform Soooooo?? Show me a column that shows me switching from Mobil #1 was a bad choice.
Excellent points, very well stated. You pretty much said what I was thinking.
Hmm.. but regardless of the ingredients, if Amsoil has 2 points higher TBN score, and apparently Amsoil has a better TEOST Score and Better 4 Ball Wear test, but Redline has 2% less evaporation (which is great feature), then Amsoil would be the winner, if add up real world testing and not ingredient numbers... :-)
Yep. This guy thinks more is better. ‘I have a migraine so let me take the whole bottle’ *eye roll*
I find it interesting that the only boutique specialty oil owned by a major manufacturer is red line
Who is the manufacturer ?
Is there any findings of calcium ever doing any harm to any engine? Sure seems to be what you are paying for in the Amsoil.. Is that any indication for its great TBN number at virgin state? Just Curious. THANX for the money spent and time taken to make this video!👍
Calcium is good for your engine as it keeps wear metals very low.
I just saw an oil analysis of Total Quartz 7000 Semi Syn 10W40 and it's calcium was at 3773, Moli B 109, TBN 11, Zinc through the roof 1307...
What does MoliB do for the oil ?
calcium, it's not good for the Api SP or LSPI Engine. It's very good some engine.
@@hunhun9047
All engine oils have some calcium.
What's the max amount of calcium an engine oil should have?
Molyb is anti wear
Thanks, 🎉video. Amsoil 🎉
Redline user since 1987, Amsoil is fine. Stay away from RP. People get stuck on brand name like local sports teams despite info. Its ok life goes on.
I never try to run nothing but amsoil , but you hit it on the head , people swear by thier brands ,and they will always use the same , either way , you got it right
if you will, please let me know why I should stay away from Royal Purple? Thank you. because I have 23 quarts of the HPS.
Started out using RP when I got into HQ oils. A local shop sells all Amsoil and sold me on it, also saying RP is 💩 lol My next oil change will be with Ams.
@@anthonybauman5233 🤷🏻 I’ve clocked about 15k on a brand new car. Would be 20k but 5k was factory oil. No issues to comment on except product being hard to find locally, especially filters. Second car about 6k-9k so far with RP. First 3k with the regular then the rest with HMX. 125k current miles.
What do the various adfifotives do? Also, wjat are the syandard debiations? Aversges can be misleading.
Let's see how they perform during and after, not a pre-analysis. Let's see how the motor looks after an oil change. Let's see what's in the oil after that and how it is standing up. How much is needed of a particular additive and how much is too much?
360,000 miles on the engine and only use Amsoil a few times. Otherwise I used over 30 different synthetic off the shelf oils and the engine was clean as it would be from the factory. So yeah hype on AMSOIL. Oh by the way those oils were ran 10,000 miles per oil change.
This redline oil is excellent stuff no doubt..
won't the higher zinc levels in the oil harm the catalytic converter though ?
That's exactly what I'm wondering. Red Line looks like excellent oil to protect the engine.
The only two standard brands of oils from the North American market available in Germany with 100% Synthetic labels are the Amsoil Signature Series and some types of Red Line Synthetic oil.
The engine oils not made from PAO stock base are not allowed to use 100% Synthetic labels. They can only label those Full Synthetic or Synthese only.
They are both great for their intent of use. This is the elephant in the room when testing amsoil it's 100% synthetic.
Redline is full synthetic. Not an equal comparison.
Elephant in the room. Ha
One is group 4 and the other is group 5 base stocks.
Is it possible that Amsoils higher boron numbers are due to it using the higher quality boron esters?
If so, that needs to be equated into your data.
I just watched a video on another channel. Sent in Amsoil after 5000 miles, then he sent in redline after 5000 miles to be analyzed. Red line literally destroyed Amsoil signature series in every way.
And I only use Amsoil. But now I’m wondering…
Check out Schaeffer oil 💯🏁
Link? I’m curious
@@john_i39 link? That was four months ago. But the channel was “Ford boss me”
Used oil analysis is only relevant for the vehicle or equipment the oil sample came from. There are a myriad of variables when trying to compare used motor oil from two different vehicles, or even the same vehicle. Time, humidity, temperature, cold starts, load, speed, fuel used, fuel additives uses, etc., all can have significant effects on a motor oil and since none of these many variables are controlled, this means used oil analysis test result comparisons are not valid.
TBN should be seen as important enough to be graded here. He said best 2 of 3 but did give a 3rd, just the sum of the first and second
I run amsoil in my built ls1 it's worth the 💰 hard to find sometimes
PPM has nothing to do with Performance of the OIL Rookies
If what you say is true, then why are the various amounts of additives measured against tangible objectives and compared to one another?
Amsoil formulates and measures performance based on testing, testing and more testing. When something works, it just works. Amsoil is worth every penny. Motor Oil, ATF, gear lube it all gives significant improvement to your vehicle.
The only problem is red line consistency does not do that good for oil analysis where amsoil does.
Clearly the Red Line oil isn’t an API SP oil, as 30 weight and lower are to be less than 800 ppm of Zinc.
Semper Fortis Brother
USN(RET)
Red Line for me any day, much better than Amsoil .Red line is smoother and doesn’t burn at all ,tried them both for my Nissan 370Z
I run amsoil 10/40 z rod in my sbc427 stroker, got about 3k miles on the oil now and it hasn't used any. And im doing rolling burnouts constantly.
Same oil
Data alone doesn't determine which motor oil is best- real world conditions do.
So the people at NASA have it all wrong when they simulate 0 gravity, G force, and vacuum. Yea, you’re a smart one.
Jimkline746 nasa once put a rocket together completely wrong and it killed a bunch of People on take off
Maybe the Amsoil is like fine wine, improving with age.
I’ve never tested Redline before but I have tested Amsoil thru Blackstone. My oil sample was from a new car with only 3000 miles. I have noticed some discrepancies between your sample and my sample even though yours is virgin.
Molybdenum in my sample is 311 while it’s 154 in your sample. How is mine higher after 3000 miles?
My magnesium is 709 and yours is 14.
My zinc is 771 and yours is 761. How does my zinc go up 10 points after 3000 miles?
My calcium is 1351 and yours is 3356. Why such a drastic drop after 3000 miles?
My silicon is 60 and yours is 3.
My phosphorus is 711 and yours is 737.
Your virgin TBN is 11.2 and my TBN is 5.0 after 3000 miles in a brand new car.
My flashpoint was the same 425 after 3000 miles.
And I used the same oil. Amsoil Signature Series 0W20. I don’t think the 0W20 vs 5w20 should have different additive amounts.
Anyway, next time send Blackstone a virgin sample of Amsoil and don’t tell them what kind of oil it is. Or tell them it’s Castrol Syntec. Let’s see if the virgin sample is the same. I’m not too sure about the accuracy of their analysis??? The discrepancies just don’t make sense.
Because the additives get used up during use and I ran my oils to 10-12K miles vice changing it at 3K. Anyone can get great results at 3K miles in testing on walmart oil so your testing is way too early to even show if the oil is any good.
@@MACTFordEdge That’s the discrepancy. If additives are used up during use, than why is my Molybdenum, silicon and Zinc higher than your virgin sample?
@@BW-kv9wj Because you have residual from other oils or the formulation was changed. IT would be anything that was in the engine previously. Residual additives remain when doing oil changes from one brand to another.
@@BW-kv9wj If you do not like it go out pay to have your oils tested then make a video and stop sitting on your sofa and do something.
can you do the 4t wet clutch oils I've used amsoil mobile racing and 300v and 300v is by far the best as shifting goes and wondered why
Red line, Long interval change and more protection.
I've had mixed results from Blackstone analysis as well. They never read fuel dilution correctly, so they have people with EcoBoost/GTDI extending their oil changes out to 10k miles incorrectly. One person posted their 0W-20 results from Blackstone with 11k-13k mile change intervals and it was clear the viscosity was thicker than average with a very low TBN, yet Blackstone said continue this change interval... Engine oil tends to thin out initially when its ready to be changed due to fuel dilution, etc... and then begins to thicken as its on its way out. That 0W-20 in the sample should have been changed far earlier.
Also these 5W-20s in the oil samples in the video have way too much calcium for modern standards. API SP and ILSAC GF-6A should cut those down dramatically. Toyota found Calcium to contribute to LSPI which is bad juju for GTDI engines. Most oil formulations started to reduce calcium prior to API SP/ GF-6A (which came into market around May 2020).
Amsoil has done thousands of tests with their oil and they never once had LSPI.
AMSOIL
I ran conventional oil in my 1991 Ford Ranger ...sold it with 240,000 miles and the guy i sold it to still drives it in 2021...... High Price expensive oils are not needed.
High price oil is never needed in older engines only new engines
That's right my friend .
@toddbob55 - AMSOIL synthetic motor oils can save substantial sums of money in reduced oil change costs and improved fuel economy. It's the cheap oils that are expensive.
Viscosity is the most critical parameter, zinc concentration is not a fair comparison how the zinc performs is critical
I’m finding redline is very expensive. Amsoil oe is way cheaper. Redline is even more expensive than SS
If formula was changed, what use of this information? Historical? Calcium higher than 1000 - can cause I'm direct injection detonation between rings. (Fresh information ~2yo). Too much is not good.
I liked the hard data of the virgin oil comparison.
I thought the assumption of the sum of PPM demonstrated superiority of a particular oil formula was extremely naïve.
The ‘observation’ that one oil required a membership to buy is just wrong and you demonstrated that by buying yours at a retail store.
I have used both companies’ products in the past (probably 15 years ago were the last purchases), but as quality synthetic oils are now mainstream and available at good prices at common stores - I don’t find it necessary anymore.
Good luck on your channel - cheers!
Amsoil is 100 % synthetic, Red Line is not, Remember manufacturers can legally get by with only about 25 % synthetic and call it Full synthetic don't be fooled, this oil comparison is not apples to apples. Do the research if it matters to you..
That's not correct
Redline high performance oils are mainly Ester based pure synthetic oils
I take it you are not an Amsoil fanboy. What do you use in your vehicles?
He wont tell you. Probably uses Amsoil and just wants to gain views subs from the haters to get his channel moving.
I have documented and used over 30 brands and types of oils in my 3.5 Duratec that currently has over 333,000 miles on the original engine. The engine in my most recent video's has no varnishing and looks like it came out of the factory. The off the shelf oils were "synthetic marketed" oils you can buy anywhere. Even used John Deere Turf guard oil in the Duratec. Only use AMSOIL twice and one time the metal wear was the worst I have ever experienced in any oil testing.
@@MACTFordEdgelikely due to the high detergency of the amsoil
Ok. My favorite driver is... Kyle BUSH.
I have accidentally drifted into folks lane .
Live in Canada and good luck on getting both of this oil ,painful
Amsoil renewal is waved if you buy $500 worth
Yeah. In this economy that is a dog barking up the wrong tree. Folks are not going to go that route. some will but they are the minority.
redline wins moly zinc phos and ester its clear
What do you mean? You don’t need a membership to buy Amsoil. that is completely false information.
You are wrong. The oil I purchased at the Farm and Fleet is AMSOIL. It is sold via retail outlets. Do your research.
Are local motorcycle shop carries both Amsoil and Redline.
I’ve never paid for my membership, my rep pays for it every year….
You are paying you just do not know it.
Test MPT 30k
I found some free amsoil.
But I still change my oil every year. I drive on a island. No race track here. So I ordered a race truck on mainland.
Now I just have to travel. I hope it can pop wheelies.
Who Owns Redline these days ?
I think Phillips 66
Amsoil is superior by a long shot...
How so?
@@MsPhuque Real world testing
@@jamesconnors8095 You mean amsoil's non-independent test claims? 😂
@@MsPhuque You mean AMSOIL 7-13 year old testing on engines that are not even used today.
@MarcLLN the whole line is not 100% synthetic though
Super tech oil 🛢️ all day
This video was a complete rejection of anything that vaguely represents anything remotely useful. You read a cue card on additives that you don’t know or understand the relationship between the chemical composition or the relationship they have with use in the real world. Redline got knocked out of Project Farms oil championship in the second round by Pennzoil. The Pennzoil that beat it out was there ultra synthetic which is very good oil. AMSOIL beat the Pennzoil as well as every other oil in an assortment in real world tests. Quite a few of the oils out performed the redline in the wear tests. More isn’t better, better is better and AMSOIL is just better at performing the duties required by oils in real world conditions. The composition values prove it has a composition, the real world tests prove AMSOIL is superior. Redline is still better oil than Mobile one or Valvoline but there are still run of the mill brands that can be plucked of the shelf at Walmart that can resist wear and just flat out perform Redline and for less money. The Pennzoil ultra synthetic that out performed the Redline is about $40 for 6qts and an excellent oil and an even better value. The oil guy channel from the guy oil companies and racing teams contract to formulate oils gives it high regards and recommends it. Not trying to pee on anyone’s parade but let actual use and testing be a guide, not a cue card listing vague composition. A greasy turd could be listed under anti-wear package!😂😂. Don’t mistake Redlines talk for Amsoil’s walk. Have a great day everyone and get out and enjoy the tools and toys you drive. 👍👍
Why in the world would I pay an outrages price for eather one and Pennsoil is a lot cheaper and its blended and made with natural gas and less hydrocarbon dirt? $26.00 versis $50.00. Thanks great test Phone call did it all.
I only ran them to test them. Otherwise I run off the shelf synthetic oils
Superior performing synthetic oils like AMSOIL can help to significantly reduce oil change costs and improve fuel economy. Cheap oils are expensive.
Amsoil is only one percent better than Pennzoil
cost 60%percent more and extended change ruins engine Quickly older oil contains acid/water/gasoline/and debris from cold starting
want to kill engine use extended oil changes ala Amsaoil.
@@chief1960Not true, I’ve put 300,000 miles on engines with 15,000 mile oil changes on Amsoil and the engines ran like new.
You ready for triax oil result ????. Is tribodyn for real ?????????
You it’s so clear you don’t know anything about oil. The lab numbers don’t tell anything about performance. Lab numbers are good for seeing how your oil is aging but it doesn’t tell you “the best oil” by any means. You need a balance of additives! More additives means you actually get less oil by volume!
Wow. People are obsessed with oil. Just put any full synthetic in and change it on time. Geez🙄
😅
Yes i like the colors of redline oils and it lasts a long time compared to cheaper oils.
Using old oil for this test invalidated the results
For me, Amsoil is like Amway. They have good stuff, but its over priced and you can get better overall products for less money. If only because of the MLM crap with Amsoil, that I'll never use any of their products.
Unless you are involved in it, you sont fully
understand the fundamentals. It is not multi level marketing. It works in a way like that but its more about giving you the freedom to market and no ‘major buy ins’. Most MLM schemes require a huge buy in and monthly/quarterly minimums. Amsoil has nothing like that.
Your comment is absolutely correct. It is by far over priced. The only reason it is this way is because the “Amsoil dealers” have to make a profit because they won’t sell it at your local store. which is stupid…
And don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.
Yawn
Amsol is keeping that they hold there amount of full synthetic oil is secret DAU
UGH REDLINE WINS#1 hands down.
BS if Amsoil was not willing to talk and give data on their oil.
Scamsoil
Scamsoil uses deceptive advertising. Show me some independent data scamsoil.