I JUST FIND YOU VIDEOS!!! I see that you answer many people's questions! hope i get a reply too!!!I REALLY HOPE !! PLEASE HELP ME !! The situation is as follows - when the gearbox is cold, there is no problem. After it warms up, it drags and grinds between 5-6 gears, as if it wonders how to shift, only if I press the pedal sharply and when I drive on hills! the oil and filter cover have been changed 30000km ago.The previous owner changed the oil, but it was red...I put ZF originals... BMW 520d F11 GA8HP50Z no error codes ......THANKS FOR YOR VIDEOS...
15:00 there is another empty check ball hole right underneath the white, sombrero-type, one way check in the upper left corner of the image. since I found only 7 in the sludge and no wear marks on the separator plate I suppose it must be empty too
Great tutorial. I have a 2011 535xi with the 8HP45 and a code came up: 420531 - EGS Amplifier - Supply - Short to ground, just stuck in park and cannot shift to neutral. Does it mean the TCM is fried?
Do you see any common issues with the 8 speed ZF? We basically only ever R&R valve bodies or entire units. Everything with the 8 speed is still under warranty for now.
Not yet, i did an overhaul on one with Alto Eagle Red Clutches for more horse power(guy did something with his engine) There was really nothing wrong with the one i did. Actually waiting on the next one, the parts were just dropped off to me
Hi. I have a problem with my ZF8HP70Z. When I downshift from 5th to 4th gear I get kind of kick and noise from the gearbox. What do you think it could be wrong with it?
Hi Gary ,i have a problem with my bmw f11 ,and its gearbox zf8hp70.i think is related according to the fault that gives me the diagnosis with the park lock sensor.since 2-3 minutes after starting the car if i am parked (P)without touching anything the car tells me that it is in position N and if i try to put in P it does not react even if i turn off the engine the message on the screen and on the lever remains the same in N position .not being in P position i cannot close the car from the command ,i have to close from inside the doors lock button to lower and the driver"s door to close it with the key manually i am confused i do not know if it is the sensor that fails ,the selonoid or samthing else .if i leave 3-4 hours there will be the car everithing is fine this in P ,if i start and leave 2-3 minutes again the same thing is repeated.thanks .what can it be?
@@GaryFerraro i made the diagnosis with a Delphi ,and this is the fault that comes out,nothing more .i have found a friend who has the ISTA and when i can i will make a diagnosis to see what fault comes out .when i have it i will write you .thank you for your time.i went to a workshop specialized in automatic gear box and they told me that for this sensor they have to change all the mecatronic .Another one told me that you can change only the sensor ,that"s why i am a bit desconcentrated.
@@DavidRatoiuRade4nu The park sensor is on the TCM or mechatronic unit it is part of it, sensor cannot be replaced. On the linkage where the rotating lever is(where the park piston hooks up) there is a magnet for the park sensor, make sure the magnet is clean of debris.
Thanks for the very insightful video I have a 8hp70x with a 4e21 electronic pressure control valve a fault van will not shift into any gear unless i leave the van running for some time (30mins) then it will go into gear shifts normal once its properly warmed up no slipping or anything can swapping the valvebody fix this problem? thanks
@@GaryFerraro Yep already took out the valvebody today just wanted to make sure its a valvebody issue and not a tcm or internal transmission issue oil was in good condition nothing burnt or anything btw.
@@GaryFerraro What resistance reading should i get on a cold solenoid? any where i can get a writeup for the soleniods resistance readings? p.s got the writeup on the resistance values
@@GaryFerraro Ok thanks got a pdf with all the info for the solenoid resistance is it ok if I post a link to it for others as well as yourself to reference? also where can I get replacement parts for this valvebody such as solenoids and a complete valvebody?
Thanks for the info. I took my tcm off in doing so I took off all bolts on the valve body. The valve body did not separate but all bolts are loose. Do I have to now replace the plate or anything? Can I just tighten the bolts up and that’s all?
Hi Just managed to complete this during weekend . I torque valve body to the gearbox itself at 71 inch pound cause that is how it was written in ZF booklet delivered with solenoid kit . Now i worried that it should be more like 89 ? Do you think i should be Ok ? Regards
Hi Gary, i got a 2015 BMW X3 28D would a bad solenoid not let you shift into drive or reverse, actually not able to take it out of park? BMW said it needs a new transmission at 15K. Let me know cheers. Awesome work btw.
Absolutely great video! Where did you get the new seals and parts or did the customer provide those all? It seems that you only changed seals under dampers, the plate seal and inlet & outlet o-rings? The new dampers where probably from Sonnax oversized kit requiring boring? That's why they didn't fit. If so, the seals probably came from the same set? I have 8HP90 which otherwise is smooth but TC lock-up in 2nd and 3rd is harsh. Especially in 2nd the TC lock-up (I assume?) always exactly on 1400rpm cuts the pull completely for brief moment if only slight gas is pressed. I'm about to do fluid flush with filters + adaptation, but was thinking that maybe it's a good idea to change TCC related solenoids.
The customer brought me the overhaul kit, the dampers were in the kit, i have the inserts so i just changed those and the plate. Before you start working on your car, make sure parts are available, i have a HP90 to overhaul but still waiting for parts
This video is still very informative even in 2021, I am just curious, my transmission which is the same as this one on a 2011 BMW X5 E70 is still running fine but I am learning from you in case I run into issues. Thanks, Gary but please try to upgrade at least to 480p resolution.
@@GaryFerraro I have a jerky shifting both in up and down shifts, specially in first 2 gears, I changed the transmission oil but the improvement is not satisfactory. This jerky shifting happens when the car is cold, but when it is warm, the quality of shifting improves noticeably. Bang on downshift, if you mean that the car behaves as if I am pressing break pedal, so yes, I feel the car as if it wants to stop but instead a jerky downshift then repeat the same behavior. I read the Adaptation values and found out that the C clutch has 500 mbar filling pressure.
@@abdurrahmanghanem8499 ok, maybe try a solenoid or swapping solenoids, I have my manual at work let me look up which solenoid is for the C clutch. Was this overhauled or no?
What you use for cleaning ? Will brake cleaner or petrol be Ok ? Or special transmision cleaner required ? Great video . Iam actually contemplating doing same thing on mine . It is only 65000km but gear changes are not smooth and minie jerks when cold . Dobe oil pan and new oil but No change so thinking of swaping solenoids and separator plate . I fell a lot more convitend after watching these video . Thank you is probably least involved job after oil change . Regards
Not a bad trans, I do a lot in the Hellcats and demons, i think they beat the crap out of them, i've done them with 40K on the clock. When servicing or working on the trans, do not use anything other than OE. Have a video that will be up on the channel on Sunday about an aftermarket pan/filter on the 8 speed
hello sir,great videos i wish there would be alot of amazing mechanics like you.i have a problem with my bmw e90 320d 2005...when i come to an almost complete stop the car jerks forward.sometime harsh sometimes soft but its always there.i changed the fluids and filters but the problem didnt go away.what it can be?
When my car shifts from 4th-5th sometimes it will "slip". There is one man that has recorded it on RUclips perfectly. This happens once every 2-3 drives and happens only at 1600rpm-2000rpm. I believe it's very rare. Any other rpm, and flooring it, it is perfect. Any recommendation? 8hp70 I've already replaced pan and fluid with zf parts.
No when I scan the car the scanner says no fault but there are 3 fault in one car 1:Check engine light isn't on and plugs not get currents and fuel injector not get fire and the plus is coming but minus is not coming
ok, so the P1715 is an Input speed sensor, you my have the RE5RO1A which means the speed sensor is part of the TCM which is internal to the trans, Your car may need a valvebody/TCM what is the make and model of the car?
Man what a great video. I thought i was going crazy with that empty check ball location, turns out it was never there! Thanks!
Excellent tutorial - thanks for taking the time to make/post it.
Thanks for watching
I JUST FIND YOU VIDEOS!!! I see that you answer many people's questions! hope i get a reply too!!!I REALLY HOPE !! PLEASE HELP ME !! The situation is as follows - when the gearbox is cold, there is no problem. After it warms up, it drags and grinds between 5-6 gears, as if it wonders how to shift, only if I press the pedal sharply and when I drive on hills! the oil and filter cover have been changed 30000km ago.The previous owner changed the oil, but it was red...I put ZF originals... BMW 520d F11 GA8HP50Z no error codes ......THANKS FOR YOR VIDEOS...
answered in my e-mails
15:00 there is another empty check ball hole right underneath the white, sombrero-type, one way check in the upper left corner of the image.
since I found only 7 in the sludge and no wear marks on the separator plate I suppose it must be empty too
very possible yes
Thank you sir great video!
Are the solenoids able to be checked for the correct ohm's while not attached to the valve body?
Yes
고맙습니다 thank you
Great tutorial. I have a 2011 535xi with the 8HP45 and a code came up: 420531 - EGS Amplifier - Supply - Short to ground, just stuck in park and cannot shift to neutral. Does it mean the TCM is fried?
I would check powers and grounds going into TCM. Will code clear?
can the pump suction sleeve be removed without tearing apart the valve body?
one of them can, the other one no
Do you see any common issues with the 8 speed ZF?
We basically only ever R&R valve bodies or entire units. Everything with the 8 speed is still under warranty for now.
Not yet, i did an overhaul on one with Alto Eagle Red Clutches for more horse power(guy did something with his engine) There was really nothing wrong with the one i did. Actually waiting on the next one, the parts were just dropped off to me
Hi the mechatronic can be repaired ? How much it costs for zf8hp70
Hi. I have a problem with my ZF8HP70Z. When I downshift from 5th to 4th gear I get kind of kick and noise from the gearbox. What do you think it could be wrong with it?
How is reverse? how is the 3-4 shift? Asking because the D clutch comes on in both cases
Hi Gary ,i have a problem with my bmw f11 ,and its gearbox zf8hp70.i think is related according to the fault that gives me the diagnosis with the park lock sensor.since 2-3 minutes after starting the car if i am parked (P)without touching anything the car tells me that it is in position N and if i try to put in P it does not react even if i turn off the engine the message on the screen and on the lever remains the same in N position .not being in P position i cannot close the car from the command ,i have to close from inside the doors lock button to lower and the driver"s door to close it with the key manually i am confused i do not know if it is the sensor that fails ,the selonoid or samthing else .if i leave 3-4 hours there will be the car everithing is fine this in P ,if i start and leave 2-3 minutes again the same thing is repeated.thanks .what can it be?
Are there any codes for the transmission?
@@GaryFerraro yes are the fault Code 420636 (parking lock sensor)thanks
@@DavidRatoiuRade4nu somewhere in the definition did it show another code number that maybe began with a P ?
@@GaryFerraro i made the diagnosis with a Delphi ,and this is the fault that comes out,nothing more .i have found a friend who has the ISTA and when i can i will make a diagnosis to see what fault comes out .when i have it i will write you .thank you for your time.i went to a workshop specialized in automatic gear box and they told me that for this sensor they have to change all the mecatronic .Another one told me that you can change only the sensor ,that"s why i am a bit desconcentrated.
@@DavidRatoiuRade4nu The park sensor is on the TCM or mechatronic unit it is part of it, sensor cannot be replaced. On the linkage where the rotating lever is(where the park piston hooks up) there is a magnet for the park sensor, make sure the magnet is clean of debris.
Thanks for the very insightful video I have a 8hp70x with a 4e21 electronic pressure control valve a fault van will not shift into any gear unless i leave the van running for some time (30mins) then it will go into gear shifts normal once its properly warmed up no slipping or anything can swapping the valvebody fix this problem? thanks
If you clear the code, it comes right back? May have to drop the valvebody to OHM the solenoids
@@GaryFerraro Yep already took out the valvebody today just wanted to make sure its a valvebody issue and not a tcm or internal transmission issue oil was in good condition nothing burnt or anything btw.
@@GaryFerraro What resistance reading should i get on a cold solenoid? any where i can get a writeup for the soleniods resistance readings?
p.s got the writeup on the resistance values
@@shimon2476 The solenoids with the orange and white color are the EDS Solenoids, they are 5-6 OHMS, The park solenoids are higher ohms.
@@GaryFerraro Ok thanks got a pdf with all the info for the solenoid resistance is it ok if I post a link to it for others as well as yourself to reference? also where can I get replacement parts for this valvebody such as solenoids and a complete valvebody?
Awesome vid keep up great work 👍🏼
Thanks Eric
Please let me know the valve body tightening torque.
Valvebody to case 89 inch pounds
Thanks for the info. I took my tcm off in doing so I took off all bolts on the valve body. The valve body did not separate but all bolts are loose. Do I have to now replace the plate or anything? Can I just tighten the bolts up and that’s all?
as long as the body did not separate you should be ok
@@GaryFerraro thank you.
@@GaryFerraro is there anything I should pay attention to while driving just in case it doesn’t seal.
@@newmexicosportsacademynmsa1459 You will notice it's not shifting correctly. I think you will be ok, i have to pry the valvebody apart when i open it
Hi Just managed to complete this during weekend . I torque valve body to the gearbox itself at 71 inch pound cause that is how it was written in ZF booklet delivered with solenoid kit . Now i worried that it should be more like 89 ?
Do you think i should be Ok ?
Regards
I think you will be fine
Hi Gary, i got a 2015 BMW X3 28D would a bad solenoid not let you shift into drive or reverse, actually not able to take it out of park? BMW said it needs a new transmission at 15K. Let me know cheers. Awesome work btw.
Absolutely great video! Where did you get the new seals and parts or did the customer provide those all? It seems that you only changed seals under dampers, the plate seal and inlet & outlet o-rings? The new dampers where probably from Sonnax oversized kit requiring boring? That's why they didn't fit. If so, the seals probably came from the same set?
I have 8HP90 which otherwise is smooth but TC lock-up in 2nd and 3rd is harsh. Especially in 2nd the TC lock-up (I assume?) always exactly on 1400rpm cuts the pull completely for brief moment if only slight gas is pressed. I'm about to do fluid flush with filters + adaptation, but was thinking that maybe it's a good idea to change TCC related solenoids.
The customer brought me the overhaul kit, the dampers were in the kit, i have the inserts so i just changed those and the plate. Before you start working on your car, make sure parts are available, i have a HP90 to overhaul but still waiting for parts
This video is still very informative even in 2021, I am just curious, my transmission which is the same as this one on a 2011 BMW X5 E70 is still running fine but I am learning from you in case I run into issues. Thanks, Gary but please try to upgrade at least to 480p resolution.
I have, thanks for watching
can you re-use the separator plate or do you have to use a new one?
I always change them, sometimes those silicon tracks are no good
If you have a high pressure in the C clutch, is it a mechatronic valve body problem or something else? Thanks.
Whats going on with the C clutch, bang on Downshift?
@@GaryFerraro I have a jerky shifting both in up and down shifts, specially in first 2 gears, I changed the transmission oil but the improvement is not satisfactory. This jerky shifting happens when the car is cold, but when it is warm, the quality of shifting improves noticeably. Bang on downshift, if you mean that the car behaves as if I am pressing break pedal, so yes, I feel the car as if it wants to stop but instead a jerky downshift then repeat the same behavior. I read the Adaptation values and found out that the C clutch has 500 mbar filling pressure.
@@abdurrahmanghanem8499 A little on the high side, have you tried resetting shift adapts
@@GaryFerraro Yes I did and it came back to the same value as before the resetting.
@@abdurrahmanghanem8499 ok, maybe try a solenoid or swapping solenoids, I have my manual at work let me look up which solenoid is for the C clutch. Was this overhauled or no?
What you use for cleaning ? Will brake cleaner or petrol be Ok ?
Or special transmision cleaner required ?
Great video . Iam actually contemplating doing same thing on mine . It is only 65000km but gear changes are not smooth and minie jerks when cold . Dobe oil pan and new oil but No change so thinking of swaping solenoids and separator plate .
I fell a lot more convitend after watching these video .
Thank you is probably least involved job after oil change .
Regards
Brake cleaner should be fine
What are your thoughts about these ZF-8 automatics? i've had two Chargers with them and absolutely love them.
Not a bad trans, I do a lot in the Hellcats and demons, i think they beat the crap out of them, i've done them with 40K on the clock. When servicing or working on the trans, do not use anything other than OE. Have a video that will be up on the channel on Sunday about an aftermarket pan/filter on the 8 speed
@@GaryFerraro looking forward to is.
@@ryotaryuu I go through the whole scenario so i'm talking for the first 20 minutes
hello sir,great videos i wish there would be alot of amazing mechanics like you.i have a problem with my bmw e90 320d 2005...when i come to an almost complete stop the car jerks forward.sometime harsh sometimes soft but its always there.i changed the fluids and filters but the problem didnt go away.what it can be?
Do you know what transmission you have? would you say it's a 2-1 downshift clunk?
@@GaryFerraro yes it is a 2-1 clunk.please help me noone knows what it is.i had it to bmw and their computer didnt show anything wrong.
Gary Ferraro it gives you the sensation that some car hit you from behind.
Do you know if the transmission is a ZF6HP26?
Gary Ferraro i dont know but my car is bmw e90 320d 2005 163hp with 6 gears.
Very informative thanks.
Thanks for watching
Great information. Wondering which car is this ??
Thanks
This was brought to me, i believe it's from a 2015 dodge charger
When my car shifts from 4th-5th sometimes it will "slip". There is one man that has recorded it on RUclips perfectly. This happens once every 2-3 drives and happens only at 1600rpm-2000rpm. I believe it's very rare. Any other rpm, and flooring it, it is perfect. Any recommendation? 8hp70 I've already replaced pan and fluid with zf parts.
have you reset shifts adapts?
Swift sx4 check engine light is not working relay is ok plugs not get current and injector can't fire
Any Transmission codes?
No when I scan the car the scanner says no fault but there are 3 fault in one car 1:Check engine light isn't on and plugs not get currents and fuel injector not get fire and the plus is coming but minus is not coming
Please reply fast
If you have no injector pulse, check the crank sensor
Adam Properdouble, your post did not show, you can e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
it's 2007 model
ok, so the P1715 is an Input speed sensor, you my have the RE5RO1A which means the speed sensor is part of the TCM which is internal to the trans, Your car may need a valvebody/TCM what is the make and model of the car?
also got an infiniti with a code P1715
What year is your car?