Toyota Prius Head Gasket replacement step by step
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- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2025
- Welcome back to @AutoScholarwithMrB! Today we go over all the steps you need to replace your head gasket in your 2010-2015 Toyota Prius. The Lexus CT200h is the same engine and should be the same procedure.
This is a fairly complicated job, but can be done with little tools and some mechanical ability. The range of prices to do this job are $3500-$4500 if you get it done professionally and most of that cost is labor. Doing this yourself can save you thousands of dollars. I recommend replacing the thermostat, water pump, PCV valve, and timing chain. Also if you need the intake and EGR system cleaned, now is the time to do it. I recommend using Toyota OEM parts with exception of the head gasket itself. FEL-PRO makes a better gasket according to my research and experiences.
There are people that say that there is no need to get the cylinder head machined, but I do it every time. I got mine done at Bo's Machine Shop in Augusta, GA for $115. This included a pressure test, planing of the mating surfaces, and checking the valves.
Video for wiper cowl removal: • 5 Minute Trick to Get ...
Amazon links for items used:
Note: Channel may get a small commission if these links are used, but will not cost you any more money. Thanks for the support!
Head gasket set used: amzn.to/3N77fWj
Head bolts: amzn.to/41zB0CV
Water Pump: amzn.to/41g0qWz
Timing chain set: Dealer sourced
PCV valve: amzn.to/3mFxLLu
#prius #headgasket #toyota #ct200h #lexus
I want to thank you for this video. I used it to replace the head gasket on my 2011 Prius. It was so useful, I really don't think I would be able to do it without this video. You did a great job and I am very thankful for your time and expertise.
Hey that is great! Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Was it easy to do?
Thank you I don't think I would have been able to do it with out your video, thank you again
My dealership wanted to charge me $6,800 and I can’t thank you enough for this video
thomasville ga toyota 3600.
@west_park7993 that’s probably fair if they are using Toyota parts and getting the head checked.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB toyota buys parts and liquids from autozone. the cheapest. a stp filter costs around 7 dollars, but dealers buy it for 2.75 and then sells it to us for 20. i know cause i deliver parts there.
I got my 2012 headgasket fix in Tijuana Mexico for $ 500 in 4hrs. My local dealership wanna to charge me $ 4400 lol.
They installed a fle-pro headgasket 2 years after still running good 188,000 miles.
500 dollars is very cheap.
Anyway you can send me the mechanic information I live in San Diego and I have a 2012 Prius V with the same head gasket issue
@@汤志珩that’s a fair price
@@rosaritomex4223 yo send the mechanic shop info
The crank pulley torque is 140ft.lbs or 190 newton meters
I was just about to leave this same comment - had to go online and look up correct torque specs since 190 ft lbs seemed a bit much
Nice and detailed. Need to tackle this tomorrow. You did forget to mention how to release the tensioner by slightly rotating the crank counter clockwise and you should hear it release. I did the headgasket on a CT200 a couple years ago and now need to do on my 2010 Prius. Using your video to refresh my memory. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this video. Followed your directions, and without really rushing I took about 12 hours from start to finish. Cleaning the sealing surfaces was the most annoying part of the job. Thank you again.
Glad to help!
Hey Mr B, I'm getting ready to do this on my Prius since I am going to replace the water pump and timing set anyway. Thank you so much for this straightforward video with your detailed explanation of every detail, what to watch out for, and no BS. I understand why you are an instructor, you are good at this. I use mostly all OEM Toyota parts except occasional gaskets. A lot of Toyota dealers sell parts online at a huge discount over going into the parts department.
Good luck with your repair!
I really appreciate this video. Im not a novice but first time working to this extent on a prius. So far not too difficult. Not fighting rust since im in the south but there is so darn much to take off to get to this point. And i bagged and labeled almost every bolt because id probably forget where some go if i dont. Im literally watching then pausing step by step as i go. Parts are out of stock so have to order everything. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this in depth video. I have a 2011 prius and you saved me about $4,000
Thanks for watching!
How did you get the EGR cooler off? I’m having a HELL of a time with those torx studs. In fact, one of them was rusty and broke off. I’m going insane here!
Look up videos specifically how to remove egr@@dreadfulrumor6580
Thanks soo much for this. I was able to complete this recently on our 2012 Prius with 252k miles on it , hoping to squeeze some more life out of this car. Cheers
Right on! Thanks for watching.
I own a machine shop in CA and this is the most common head we see. For a price comparison, we charge $175 for a pressure test/inspection and a re-surface. If you're getting into this job, don't skimp on getting it checked by your local machine shop. You don't want to do all this work and bolt on a cracked head or end up having another head gasket failure because your mating surface wasn't flat, especially when using a mls gasket.
Thanks!
Thank you!
I don’t want to jinx myself but did my entire repair with this video. Only thing I had to additionally replace was the crankshaft position sensor.. not sure why?? But I’m 70 miles in and running great. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
How did you determine that you needed to replace the crankshaft position sensor?
Well the sensor was not the issue. The crankshaft sprocket was off one tooth. Engine actually ran great but check engine light was on. I took it apart again one afternoon and replaced timing chain and tensioners thinking chain had stretched but I was wrong again. Long story short… as you reintroduce valve spring pressure on the chain make sure you triple check the timing marks before you put it back together. Twice as I did it that chain moved that single tooth again and again. Just pay close attention to the marks and it’s a breeze.
@@Thefisherman-qr6is thank you!
My pleasure. I’ve had it apart three times. A machine I use to make fun of I now absolutely love! Enjoy yours, and message me any questions.
Mr. B the torque on the water pump is, 19ft lbs. for the 2 long bolts, and 15ft lbs. for the 3 short bolts.
Thank you kind sir!
Thank you for your info. I have replace the head gasket on my prius 2015 follow your video but after finish car started for bout 30 seconds and stop check engine cam on and have codes p0240, c0100 ,p3011 ... Need help ! please
What ended up being the cause? And how much was the fix?
Fantastic video! Thanks so much for sharing this detailed and complete guide.
Amazing skills to do this kind of work, thank u for sharing
2014 Prius, local Toyota dealership wanted $370 to replace 4 spark plugs as part of maintenance. When asked why so expensive the service guy said “book rate” was 1.5 hours per plug! Then I watch this video and he has them out easily. I can see why some labor is required disassembling items to get to them then acknowledge the time to put it back together, but the whole procedure would not seem to take more than an hour. Roughly $80 for 4 plugs, meaning roughly $290 labor. Also suggested was replacing front and rear wipers (“streaking”) though I just replaced the rear a month ago, the fronts about 2 months ago and have not noticed any streaking. Cost $67 front, $30 rear. Sigh
Once you get the wiper cowl out of the way the plugs are easy as a Corolla. I have a video on cowl removal here: ruclips.net/video/B5a3zUuWrb8/видео.htmlsi=VFjJwryUG2RvAvn3
Even if it takes me 4 hours.....I don't get paid 50 an hour so it makes more sense that I'm doing it. Plus then it's done how about thay
A very well done video! Bookmarked for when I have to do the job.
perfect amount and level of detail in your explanations.... REALLY great vid
Holy Toledo, great video! Thanks for creating and sharing.
Ty for your time and video
Thank you 🙏🏽 I might be able to do this. Coolant system scares me
My 2010 prius 245k miles, does not always shake when it starts.
The engine shakes and chokes only when it is shut down after a few miles of driving, and then quickly restarted. Then the symptoms are crazy - it chokes and vibrates. Then, when it sits overnight, it starts great in the morning again. Dealer says need to replace motor, states ' blown gasket', and even that 'main bearing is bad'...
I replaced spark plugs, but looks like a gasket job is needed & EGR needs to be cleaned. Not sure what or how to replace bearings, but i'll start to disassemble and will see...
Thank you for giving us some confidence that it can be done without a dealer, but a lot of info is missing:
- torque numbers on bolts,
- fuel line - does it need any shut off somewhere,
- coolant vs inverter coolant
- can it be done without lifting the car high up
- do surfaces that surround gasket need some sealant/lube when putting back in (like silicone on cover)
- links to smaller gaskets
Thank you
Thank you for taking this video
Impressive work, great video and super informative by explaining things how it work. Thank u
Thanks for watching!
Hopefully you used a wire around the back timing chain guide to hold tension against the timing chain and attached this wire to the upper sprocket temporally before bolting on the timing chain cover. This step insures that the timing chain does not skip a tooth thereby knocking the engine out of time. Very important. I found this out the hard way.
I take a sharpie and draw a line on each head bolt, makes it easier for me when doing the degree deal.
how do you draw a line on a black oily bolt with sharpie???. Perhaps, you can take a file and make a cut on the head, so you can see a white line on black head.
@west_park7993 I used a silver sharpie, but I guess you could use green, blue, red, hell even purple if they make that color. There was no issue with oily bolt heads for me, but if there were I'd just spray some brakleen on a rag and wipe each one before dropping it into place.
Honestly if you can't figure out how to make it happen, maybe doing a head gasket is too big of a job for you in the first place.
@@GrandPrix46 you are right. the bolts arrive dry, and you can use silver pen. however, when you need this mark, if it is on the head, it will be hiding behind the tool. I can put a mark on the tool extension. sticky tape like a flag? or again, just a sharpie mark on sticky tape. this is my first head job, and i am learning from the best
@@west_park7993 You'll be fine, bud. This isn't a difficult job, most important things are to get the head machined at a good machine shop (mine needed new intake guides at @ 223k), clean everything really well, keep everything you remove organized, make sure everything is clean before reassembly, and use a half-decent torque wrench. Doesn't have to be Snap-On, but I wouldn't use HF junk, either. It's not a race car engine, if you're off just a bit it's not gonna hurt anything. Think I've put about 9k so far since doing the hg on my 2010.
Lube the top end up as you're putting it back together, too. I dropped all the lifters, or whatever they call them on a dohc engine, in a small plastic tub that my black forest ham came in half filled with 20w50. Before installing the valve cover, I ran 75/90 gear oil over the top of both cams. Was a pretty smooth first start after putting it all back together.
You can use the breaker bar itself as an angle meter too, 90* is a 1/4 turn, etc. So if I start at the 12 o'clock position, 3 o'clock will be 90*, the lines on the bolt heads are also a reminder in case you miss one. You'll know right away when you see one in a completely different position than the others. Last thing I can think of is make sure you don't have a bent rod, if one piston doesn't go as high as the rest, stop wasting time working on it and get another engine.
@@GrandPrix46 thanks for your long encouraging letter. i really appreciate your concern and kindness. i done everything on a car, AC, clutch, rack-pinion, also engine swap . this is my first head job. I work slowly, because i keep everything organized, i clean all parts bbq starter, tooth brush, etc. I place bunches of bolts in plastic bags... i did not loose any valve cap, i put all lifters, all rockers. i have a cheap hf torque wrench, but i calibrated it myself at the 36 ft.lb point.... got my tool box to the local ups. they have TOLEDO balance that's calibrated by the DOACS. Guaranteed accuracy. I adjusted the tool box to 36 lb. Then I placed a 1/2 extension horizontal on my vice. I attached a metal profile to the handle of my torque wrench, so that the 1/2 square is at the mid point center of gravity. So, when the wrench is attached horizontally to the extension in the vice, the wrench and metal bar are balanced. Then i measured 12 inches and hung the toolbox. adjusted the calibration nut to the point of exact click. voila. my cheap wrench acts 36 pounds at 1 ft and clicks..... my wife witnessed me when i torqued the bolts. (GLP: good laboratory practices ) she followed me to which is the next bolt... 36 then 90 deg, then 45 deg.... i graduated from mathematical school, i know what degrees are. 4 bolts form a rectangle, that is very close to a square. the diagonal of this rectangle is 48/42 degrees to the two neighbor sides. so, this is a prety good marker for 45 deg. The breakbar bends, you know, you can not be 100% perfect... as I finished the job, I relaized, i can do perfect 90 or 45 degree. this is how: Prepare 2 wire loops with a straight wire end. the loops are slightly smaller than the extension diameter. insert the extension in the loops and adjust the loops above the xzn-12 mm so the straight ends are like clock arrows. One of them you can fix attached to the say edge of the head. use c-clamps, vice grips or assistant. the other loop-arrow turns with the extension shaft. Set it 45 or 90 degree to the right. As you turn the bolt, the upper hand turns, and the lower is fixed. When they align, this is your exact 45 or 90 degree... see, as we go tru the job, we get better ideas........ i dont have bent rods........ i have some lucas oil heavy duty. it is very sticky, looks like 75/90..... i put a few drops of it in each lifter well, but it leaked the other end. i guess, before i put the valve cover gasket, i shall pour some lucas all over the cams.... i am not bragging, i just want to share my ideas and experience. again, it was pleasure talking to you. timing chain tomorrow.
Awesome video. Thank you so much. After doing this work on my 2015 prius, the hybrid warning light came on. Any ideas and a possible solution? Thanks in advanced 🙏🙏🙏
Ima do it this saturday
Awesome video
Thanks for watching!
Awsome video!
Toyota wants $8,000
Great video. You left out a few torque specs for bolts and sequences, so a person doing this would have to look that up elsewhere. Hopefully not to difficult. I know I'm working of a Ford 4.0 now. I've got several videas saved into a group for that vehicle. Two videos showing the whole rebuild of the engine, but I get good info from both, that the other leaves out. Then I find torque spec lists for everything, take the screenshot and add it to a folder of pictures, so I can make sure I'm getting everything done correctly.
Best informative video
Great vid! Really helpful! I followed your video and another video pretty closely and both vids only applied rtv on the outer edges of the timing cover.. It wasnt until i completed everything and only have remaining the oil/coolant fill, till i looked online at the repair manual that it says to place rtv at the metal circle that mates next to the two O-rings. I didnt notice this in either of the vids i watched and wonder if its critical that we didnt seal that? Have you had any issues having not sealing that part, or did you forget to add it to the vid and added it later? Your input would be greatly appreciated since im waiting to fire up the engine until i find out for sure its safe. Thanks!
hi bro just wanted to follow up on this, what did you do about the missing blob of gasket goo? was it a problem?
Hello. thank you for the useful video , also after i'm done the job my car start for like 10 sec then stop with a massege said "check hybrid system stop the vehicle in a safe place".
also when the engine start it doesn't charge the battery like use to do. the check engine lights is on.. most of them is on ,when i connect my car to a scanner it doesn't detect my car at all.
please if you can helpe
Very thorough step-by-step, appreciate it.
A couple of comments:
1. The Toyota spec'd bit for the head bolts is "10 mm bi-hexagon", not a "triple square" as you say in the video. The triple square does have the same number of points (12), is close enough to work, but each corner is 90 degrees. The 10 mm bi-hexagon bit has 60 degree corners, and the dimensions are also very slightly different.
2. Toyota recommends the head bolts be dipped in motor oil prior to install
Wow, never knew they made a special socket for this. I’ve always used a triple square, seems to fi perfect. Also I did omit the oil tip, but always oil them. Thanks for the update, and thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Toyota's not alone in putting all their repair info behind a paywall. Very frustrating, doubly so with the prices the dealerships charge. I'm an armchair, duffer DIY'r, really appreciate these hands-on videos. Watched your brake accumulator video too; just hope ours hangs in there.
I chased down some of those missing torque specs you mentioned:
42:23
Exhaust manifold to engine torque: 15 ft/lb
It's heat shield: 9 ft/lb
53:32
Fuel rail hold-down bolts: 15 ft/lb
54:05
Water pump:
2 (35mm) bolts towards rear: 19 ft/lb
3 (15mm) bolts towards front: 15 ft/lb
57:00
Intake manifold: 2 nuts and 3 bolts: 21 ft/lbs
Throttle body to intake, hold-down bolts/nuts: 7 ft/lbs
EGR pipe to intake, two bolts: 7 ft/lbs
Great video. In the process of replacing one on a 2016 V. Super helpful! How do you get the harmonic balancer off the vehical without loosing top dead center? Any tips on this?
Do you have tips or a video to take the EGR off?
you need to make a video for 2016 gen 4, please
YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Might skip the DIY on this one. :'D
how do you set the timing to top dead center? Such as, with the car off can you spin the crank shaft? I'm trying to set it to neutral without turning the car over? You dont mention this in the discussion.
Engine will turn no matter what.
I figured it out. You need to lift the front wheels off the ground to spin the crank shaft. :-) That allowed me to move the crank position to TDC. I couldnt find this anywhere online. Go figure. I called a mechanic and they gave the 411.@@AutoScholarwithMrB
I think removing the spark plugs also helps to avoid compression
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Thanks. Great video
Nice work. I'd put a highlight on the engine mount removal lower stud nut removal. That's something easily missed and can really be tough to find.
At roughly 13:48 you mention the bolt that cannot be seen. How did you get that one off? I’ve been stuck here. Seems I need more hand clearance to reach it
It was not shown in the video
There is no way to get a good camera angle on it to show it. Have you tried a small wrench?
And for your next trick, pistons and rings!
DONT YOU CURSE ME!
Now i managed to get the front cam at 2 oclock mark but when i try to put the timing chain on, the rear sprocket doesnt normally align. it wants to spring counter clock wise a tooth or two. that puts some tension on the rockers.... is that nornal. now that everything is put together.... it starts normally but at higher speeds the rockers/lifter noise can be heard. it never did that prior to this maintance.
Sounds like your timing is off a little. Did you get this figured out?
Great video, very through. Thanks so much!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching.
good informations, nice and detail. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
There are two notches on the forward facing cam shaft sprocket. The correct notch for timing will have a punch mark on its face.
Do some of the bolts need to be replaced with new?
Professional !!!
Bro great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Do you have to release the timing chain tensioner after installing?
Mr. B excellent video on the Prius head gasket replacement.
Where exactly are you located? I need a head gasket job and I was wondering if I could bring you the vehicle thank you.
Unfortunately I am an instructor and I am no longer working on cars
Just followed your video to replace my head gasket. Problem now is the car won’t go into READY and thus will not start. I get lots of warning lights. How can I revive this thing?
Fixed it. When putting the hybrid battery plug back in, I pushed it in and flipped the handle to the left but didn’t slide the handle to the right at the end. I didn’t see it come out initially and had no experience with reinstalling it. Huge relief when I got that figured out.
Oh I missed your first notification, sorry! Yes you are not alone in that mistake, it is very common. Thanks for watching and sorry again for the late reply.
Mr. B! The bit isn't a 12mm Triple Square, it's a Double Hexagon 10mm technically. Otherwise, great job as usual.
Yep, I have the correct socket listed, however I have used my triple square on these for years!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB 🙂 I've read they work OK as well, was wondering. Something to do with the angles and face interface isn't as complete with the triple square, though the outer points seat into the bolt grooves. Good to know. I practiced on a 150K 2011 Prius in the salvage yard and wound up investing in the timing cover with internals and complete head assembly to also practice spec'in out to Toyota specs and possibly rebuilding since I'm thinking I have everything other than those recall or TSB or whatever was special tools used for the valve spring clips. Doesn't seem that complicated unless having to machine and even then like small engines, probably can use a surface plate or high quality piece of glass with sand paper to surface. I just learned today the same lapping compound can be used for the valves and valve seats. That clip however. Wondering which is the better tools to use?
Triple square, or XZN, will have 90* corners, possibly very sharp. The Toyota spec here is bi-hexagon, or two hexagons offset by 30*; these have 120* corners, usually rounded off, not sharp. The M12 in the XZN spec does not actually specify any dimension (e.g., nothing about it is exactly 12mm, as you might think). From reading what works or doesn't work for people on this specific application, most have success with M12 XZN (and that is far more common that the bi-hexagon), many fail with an Allen (single hexagon), and of course the specified bi-hexagon works.
So I'd say it you have an M12 XZN, use it. But if you don't, and need to go and buy the special tool for this one job, get a 10mm bi-hexagon.
Great video, thanks.
Well said
@23:18 How did you get off the pulley off? I'm having trouble taking it off. I turn it counter-clockwise and the pulley turns.
@@Dribbles88 I used an impact gun.
thank you very much!
Where you get the timing chain from ?
Toyota dealership.
@@AutoScholarwithMrBany aftermarket brand you recommend or OEM is best ? And also did you just change the chain or everything else also ? Besides the tensioner
@@Jay-eq1zb I have used cloyes before with good results. I normally get the entire kit.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you hopefully i get this done ✅
@Jay-eq1zb good luck with your repair!
Thank you, sir🙏
Absolutely! Glad to help.
Mr. B,
First, thanks for the time you spent on this video.
I,ve completed my head gasket job. I'm back together and won't crank or start......2012 Lexus CT 200.
If I try to start, all I get is a Check Hybrid System message. I've attempted to go into maintenance mode, but when I hit the starter, it just shuts back down.
I've hooked my scanner, and it shows now new codes.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Make sure your hybrid plug is installed correctly.
@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks, I hadn't slid it to the right....now that issue is fixed, I'm getting a Check Hybrid System fault. If I go into maintenance mode, it'll start and run for 10 seconds or less and shut back down. Cleaned the MFS to no avail. Do you have any thoughts from here? Sorry to wear ya out on this.
Thanks
@@alanm6764 make sure the vacuum lines under the intake are tight and correct. If not that just double check all connections.
So for timing chain if I align marks with colors is ok and for tightening the head bolts what are numbers and what tool I need
It's supposed to be a 10mm double hex but you'll be lucky to find one. A 12 triple square fits but the angles are different in the corners. Some people use Allen keys. An Allen is only a single hexagon the double hex is just two hexagons on top of each other.
49nm then 90⁰ followed by 45⁰
May I ask why you're changing the head gasket?
How do you conclude that the head gasket needed replacement?
The Prius also has the coolant exchange near the catalyst converter.
How would you conclude that the leak isn't near the exchange near the catalyst converter?
Question about silicone bead, when you put the silicone on the cam, you put it all around, is that the way to do it,because I saw another video and the guy didn’t go all around, he stopped where the timing chain side is, he said the oil goes in there and not to put it all around, but to me your way makes sense, please help clarify, because I am about to do it next week, also, do you use 1/2 inch breaker or 3/8 (is 3/8 from tekton tool set good enough or do I have to buy 1/2 ) thank you
The factory puts it all the way around so I do too. The head bolts are really tight so I would use a half inch breaker to remove.
How many hours the shop will charge for this job ???
He ain’t joking about every clip fighting you. I just hope I won’t need to buy a new wiring harness.
How much is the camshaft bearing torque please? 10 mm bolt and other bolt
Man, I need you to do my prius. I graduated from Augusta Tech and I work at Augusta University.
What do I do if I messed the cam timing/positions when doing the job?
Do you have a list of parts you purchased to do this job?
Toyota or OEM parts: water pump, thermostat, timing chain set, head bolts
Felpro: head gasket set
I can put an itemized list together using Amazon links this week in the video description if that would help.
Yes. A Amazon list with links would be very helpful.
Thank you
Ok, I will try to get that up tomorrow. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB So? I don’t need them to be amazon links, I just need the numbers please.
@@jldpittman updated in video description. Did the update a while ago and it didn’t take, but it’s there now
Can you upgrade to ARP head studs or something so it doesn't leak again?
I can’t say for sure, but I have never heard of anyone doing it.
Just replace the gasket every 200,000 miles. 👍
Hi Mr B do you have to send the head into the shop?
I do to check for cracks and warpage.
Any tips on loosening the crank shaft pulley bolt without an impact gun?
Yes just use a deep 19 mm socket and a 18inch or longer breakerbar, have it set up against the left hand side of frame, and hit the start button for a sec, the crank will release itself. easy peasy....
Good vid to be fair but... The head bolts are reusable as long as they are still within spec. Removal of the head is the opposite of installation. Start from the outside bolts and work your way in. The head can crack if you undo one bolt all the way. Undo 45⁰ at a time until they are all loose. 👍
Exactly..was going to say the same thing. I've done several head gaskets and was prepping for this particular model and noticed removal was complete opposite in this video. My suggestion is to use this video so you have a visual of the tear down and reassembly. Go by repair manual for internal tear down and reassembly. Manual also states to oil thread bolts as does most manufacturers to ensure proper torque specs.
What true wrench are using Mr B 🫡
When you put the timing chain on.Did you rotate the engine to check the timing ?
No, because the chain link marks set the timing. There are no timing marks on the cams so there is no way to check timing that way.
Did step by step and I have a bad misfire upon startup, I didn’t let it run that long. Timing chain seems great and rotates by hand easy. Timing chain loosens a little on one of the strokes, I can hear the timing chain squeal when it does this. I’m ordering a new tensioner and will re set the timing chain again to make sure it didn’t skip jump a link. Any suggestions?
Every time I use the torque angle tool, I mark the bolt with a sharpie. This way I don't accidently torque it twice and snap a bolt.
Do you recommend replacing the sprockets when you replace the timing chain? The VVT sprocket is a little expensive and I'm finding conflicting information online.
If there is any noticeable wear yes, but there normally isn’t.
Hi Mr. B, I just finished doing a head job on my 2010 Prius using your video as a reference. Is there a trick to adding the coolant back in? I've seen methods for bleeding the coolant system of air (I would assume that the hoses would be filled with air after a head job) ranging from just taking the cap off the overflow tank and adding coolant till it stops taking it, to what seem like, very complex procedures that require rigging hoses from one bleed valve to another. Can you shed any light on this question?
I use a vacuum filler but you can fill with coolant and run with the cap off for a while and most the time, it will self bleed.
Hi I saw you added the head gasket kit. I searched felt pro head gasket kit is missing some O rings and some gaskets. So how do you manage it ? Don't you change them ?
@@Berkan61.34 my kit had all the o-rings needed to do this job.
@ Thanks for reply and the video.
Hi Mr. B, I just took my 2012 Prius (280k miles) to my local Toyota dealership and they recommended I get a whole new engine. Hopefully you can give me your thoughts. I had just taken it in in March and they attributed the rattle to a misfire in cylinder 1 due to old spark plugs. All of them got replaced and that helped for about 2 weeks. The rattle returned and now it’s a blown head gasket in cylinder 3. The tech sent me a video in which he advised “the cylinder block and/or head usually actually warp beyond specifications. So instead of just doing cylinder head gasket which would not correctly fix it because the specification on your block and/or head is out of spec, it will require replacement of the cylinder block and the head.” Which to me sounds like what he just said couldn’t be fixed due to the possible warping, but not sure. Maybe he just misspoke there. When he spoke with me in person he recommended the new engine since replacing only the head gasket could eventually cause the same issue due to being out of spec. Thoughts? Thank you so much in advance!!!
The only way to tell if it is warped is to disassemble, but I would be wary of a bottom end with that many miles on it. The choice would be to replace the engine with a rebuilt unit, find a used engine with less miles, or possibly finding another Prius. Have you replaced the HV battery and the ABS modulator before? Those are also high dollar failure points. If you have replaced both, a repair might be advisable.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you so much for your quick response! I’m pretty sure the ABS modulator has not been replaced, but the HV battery was replaced less than 3 years ago. Do you have any recommendations for where to buy used engines? I’ve seen many people mention JDM engine depot. Also about how much would an ABS replacement be if I had someone do it? I’m trying to decide if it’s worth trying to keep the car. It hasn’t ever given me any issues aside from this blown head gasket 😕
@@guadamelon I have heard the usual on ABS is $1500-$2500 because the part is so high. I also recommend using new parts from Toyota on that. I have a video on changing it as well that goes into why they fail. As far as engines go, I have heard the JDM engines are the way to go but I have not dealt with them directly. I have used LKQ and they are reliable.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks again, Mr.B. You have been extremely helpful, I appreciate it!
@guadamelon thanks for watching!
How different is a 2019 Prius? I have a mysterious coolant leak and it may very well be the head gasket since the tailpipe is blowing white smoke with each accelerator press.
@@billkeithchannel there is not much difference, the EGR system is different but the procedure is about the same. Definitely check the torque specifications on the fasteners because I think they are different.
My prius have the following symptoms:
1- Engine shaking on startup,
2- Engine shake even in low rpm,
3- White smoke from exhaust pipe when driving downhill.
Is it a headgasket symptoms ?
Thanks
Yes, sounds like the head gasket may have failed. Is the coolant level low?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Yes， coolant lose as well. Is it good to replace the engine or replace the head gasket?
@@汤志珩 if you have a lot of km an engine may be a better option.
Do you check the piston height to make sure there are no slightly bent rods? If so, how do you do that?
@@wpcote108 I don’t, but I’ve never had an issue with it. It is good practice to do so and I guess I have been lucky to never have had an issue. It is probably a good practice however. There are videos on checking “deck height” and that’s what you would need to do. If you catch this early enough it should not be an issue.
It is a good idea to use acetate to wipe down the cylinder head and the top surface of the engine surface. Bad idea to have oil residue remining on the surfaces.
What if bottom dot doesnt align but top 2 alings
Thanks for the Video, I used it to help remove and clean my EGR. Would you know a place in Augusta, GA that would work on a 2010 Prius? I have a feeling my head gasket needs to be replaced and even with the video I don’t feel comfortable doing it.
C&C Automotive is probably the best place around here for that.
I took out vavle lifters.does it matter how they go.or I have a match hole on the lifter to hole on head.
I had someone replace my head gasket and all is well except i have this weird smell coming inside the car. I even taped up the air intake hole outside under the windshield on the left and that helped a little, but smell still is coming through. I think its exhaust, cause oil is not burning, and coolant is good too. Perhaps they screwed up that exhaust gasket in the back or didnt replace it. There are no noises of exhaust leaks. I took it back to mechanic but he kinda shrugged his shoulders as if im making things up. But now after 6 months it seems that the whole car stinks everytime i get in. Any ideas?
@@jongasproductionsandfinear427 I would take it to an exhaust shop and make sure the exhaust isn’t leaking. Outside of that I would think maybe an oil leak can cause a similar smell. I hope this helps!
Is this also the same motor in a 2014 Corolla? The 1.8? It looks similar but I'm sure with the hybrid portion it was just built around with a different orientation
@@simonmolina2648 I think it would be, I don’t think they have the EGR and the cooling system is different.
Head bolts go in dry?
Nice video. Where are you located and how much would you charge to do this work?
I am an instructor, I do not do outside work anymore unfortunately.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB ok ty
How do you make the tensioner engage after installing it
What were the symptoms that the head gasket needed to be replaced ?
Misfires and missing coolant with no leaks. Heat stopped blowing warm (due to low coolant) was the one they were most concerned with.
@Auto Scholar with Mr B would shuddering, engine shaking at start up or low rpms be a same issue or something else? Thanks
@@courtgantry yes when these misfire they shake violently. If it does in cold normally that is a head gasket failing, but everything else should be ruled out, like coils, plugs, and injector failure.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB After replacing the HG only Prius it didn't look bad. I wonder if the EGR cooler was the cause of the violent shaking at start up?? Mine was COMPLETELY blocked solid!
@@jameshite9995 I have heard that doesn’t help for sure.
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without the engine turning? Have seen people wedge a wrench and crank the motor but not sure how to do it the other way.
Impact gun.
Ty for the video, I just completed my head gasket using this as a guide. I started the engine and it was indeed rough and smoky lol. But it went away and sounds like I have an exhaust manifold leak. I am missing one pin I lost and it sounds like a chopper motorcycle. I don’t have any engine codes so o don’t think it’s misfiring. ?
Pin? What do you mean?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB pin I mean the threaded bolt with the star head, a nut attaches it to the exhaust manifold
Just want to update, the reason why my shit sounded like open headers was because the manifold gasket had fell and only half of it was on Lol. So put it on correctly and tightened eveything down to 27 ft lbs as suggested, but I found that it smelled like exhaust still. So I tightened it even more and it improved smell to where I barely smelled it but I do smell something. I’m using a felpro gasket and it’s thicker than oem I believe so not sure how hard I have to toque it down but I have them torqued pretty good
@@radiospankdid you get the manifold gasket on without have to take the cams off and timing cover
@@lane5477 yes, I had to slide it down in there, it was tight and difficult but I had already put on Head gasket and torques down the head bolts so didn’t want to undo that. I pretty much lined up one hole on each side pressing down the gasket one side at a time
There will be a bolt in the center of the timing cover. Make sure to remove it before prying off the timing cover.