Super video - I had not thought about cutting a shim to a wedge shape, but it totally makes sense. Thank you for the comment about not using metal tubular sleeves - the most useless things!
Thanks! I know the sleeves don’t work by sad experience; I put those sleeves in a few pianos many years ago and had to remove almost all of them. Totally loose after a few months, almost like they were a lubricant.
@@jbuzz8853 Yes, I completely agree. I threw out the small supply I had, after initially trying them. Also removed some from a piano where someone else had fitted them - exactly as you say, almost like a lubricant. I swabbed the holes with low viscosity CA and put the pins back, and that worked well.
the main advantage of Jim's method of shimming is the use of a thin sheet of veneer, which allows for minimal material removal from the pinblock hole. This can be especially useful when the hole is already worn or enlarged. The veneer can be precisely cut to fit the exact size of the hole, allowing for a more accurate repair there. On the other hand, Max's method of shimming ruclips.net/video/zoCU21OVBpg/видео.htmlsi=VjSKslvB7B6441ah using corrugated cardboard or paper offers a cost-effective solution that is easy to obtain. It can work well for many pinblock holes, and the material can be built up in layers to achieve the desired thickness. Additionally, the use of the cardboard or the paper can minimize damage to the surface of the pinblock hole. Overall, both methods have their advantages and can work well in different situations. The use of cardboard or paper may be more versatile and cost-effective, but the use of veneer may be preferable when a high level of precision is required. It is important to choose the method and materials that are appropriate for the specific piano's repair needed.
Super video - I had not thought about cutting a shim to a wedge shape, but it totally makes sense. Thank you for the comment about not using metal tubular sleeves - the most useless things!
Thanks! I know the sleeves don’t work by sad experience; I put those sleeves in a few pianos many years ago and had to remove almost all of them. Totally loose after a few months, almost like they were a lubricant.
@@jbuzz8853 Yes, I completely agree. I threw out the small supply I had, after initially trying them. Also removed some from a piano where someone else had fitted them - exactly as you say, almost like a lubricant. I swabbed the holes with low viscosity CA and put the pins back, and that worked well.
the main advantage of Jim's method of shimming is the use of a thin sheet of veneer, which allows for minimal material removal from the pinblock hole. This can be especially useful when the hole is already worn or enlarged. The veneer can be precisely cut to fit the exact size of the hole, allowing for a more accurate repair there.
On the other hand, Max's method of shimming ruclips.net/video/zoCU21OVBpg/видео.htmlsi=VjSKslvB7B6441ah
using corrugated cardboard or paper offers a cost-effective solution that is easy to obtain. It can work well for many pinblock holes, and the material can be built up in layers to achieve the desired thickness. Additionally, the use of the cardboard or the paper can minimize damage to the surface of the pinblock hole.
Overall, both methods have their advantages and can work well in different situations. The use of cardboard or paper may be more versatile and cost-effective, but the use of veneer may be preferable when a high level of precision is required. It is important to choose the method and materials that are appropriate for the specific piano's repair needed.
What material are you using for the shim? Is that just wood veneer?