I second that. I made the mistake of using it in my gun room the first time and I'm not sensitive to the chemicals used in cleaning in any way. That stuff did a magnificent job of removing hard carbon in an old M1 Garand that I picked up, it looked like it had never seen a brush but the vapors sent me for a loop and not a good one. I spent 16 hours on the couch with nausea and a slight headache. 24 hours later I was fine but it's the last time I'll use it in my house. It's not just stinky and I'll only use it where I do my casting, out in the driveway.
After watching your videos on barrel cleaning I ordered FreeAll and JB Bore Paste. I have just replaced a barrel on one of my 223s that has over 6000 rounds though it. (I shoot a LOT of rock chucks) That barrel looked terrible in my borescope. With it off of the rifle I had nothing to loose so I went to work cleaning it. I ran several patches soaked with FreeAll though then used a bronze brush followed by more patches. Then I wrapped patches around a worn out brush and slathered it with the JB paste and went to work. After a good scrubbing and then flushed out with more patches I have to say that the barrel looks better than I ever remember it looking. I've now used this method on all of my chuck rifles and 5 test loads through a cold clean barrel made a 1/2 inch hole. Thanks for the tips.
how can you not have 100k subscribers? you're videos are not only informative, but concise. I very much appreciate your presentation style. shoot straight!
I used to work in an oil refinery. One of the standard procedures for removing carbon or bitumen is to soak in warm to hot diesel. I plug the barrel with a roll up ear plug and , positioning the barrel vertically, fill it with diesel and sit it somewhere safe out in the hot sun or somewhere similar to provide the heat. A couple of days for a really fouled barrel and a absolute minimum of brushing gets a phenomenal amount out. Diesel will not harm the bluing but it’s tough on timber, it’s worth disassembly. My 2c for you to think about.
I thought I had a clean stainless steel rifle barrel since I was using Hopps #9... then I cleaned the same barrel with Hopps Elite foaming gun cleaner... Whew! ...then here comes the copper... an amazing amount of copper came out of the barrel. I rolled up a small piece of paper towel and plugged the barrel at the muzzel end and taped it off with masking tape and let the Hopps #9 set over night filling the barrel with a syringe. To clean up I taped a small plastic water bottle to the barrel so the cleaning solvent (Hopps #9) wouldn't make a big mess everywhere. The Elite foam gun cleaner is strong medicine and I did not leave it set long and would never let something like that set in a rifle barrel overnight. Elite foaming gun cleaner has a high pH which is corosive. It said follow up and clean it out with Elite gun oil which I did and acetone and Hopps #9 and a pH neutralizer. It says it removes carbon, lead and copper. Any solvent that cleans as well as Hopps Elite foaming gun cleaner needs to be used with caution since it has such a high pH. I used barrel mops and nylon and copper brushes to clean the barrel. Its crazy how toxic some of these bore cleaning chemicals are and I think everyone should wear nitril gloves and have good ventelation when working with barrel cleaners.
I too have been using Iosso for lots of years. I also use their nylon brushes in the same caliber as I am cleaning. I coat the brush with Iosso and use it to clean the barrel. Ten back and forth strokes. Then I patch the bore, clean the nylon brush in carb cleaner and repeat the cleaning step again. My last step is to run a couple of Shooter's Choice wet patches through the bore followed by a dry patch. I don't have a bore scope, so I can't attest to removing all the carbon. Benchrest shooters have used this method for years.
I use the Eric Cortina method, Sharpshooter Patch out for copper and CLR on the carbon. If you use the CLR on a blued barrel be very careful as CLR will remove bluing. A barrel mop works good for applying.
I use a brush that's a caliber or 2 smaller than my bore, and wrap a patch around it. Coat that in Iosso Paste cleaner. Couple of passes (short stroking from chamber to muzzle) and it takes out the hard carbon better than JB or any solvent I've ever used. 5 minute job. No soak time. No days of waiting.
my gun smith told me he seen more rifles warn out by cleaning , than not cleaning /my Stelling .22 was not cleaned from new 1970 till 2010 1,000 to 2,000 rounds a year shooting rabbits best night 308 rabbits .still shoot thumb nail group at 75 yards no bipod then free hand shooting .
I do the exact same with both my light and unlimited 1000yd benrifles as well as all my custom rifles. Best way I found unless you buy the $1500 steam machine for it that works best and fasy
@@davidorpwood8433 your gunsmith is wrong my friend. I'm a gunsmith rifle builder and 1000yd benchrest shooter. I can tell you only time barrels get hurt from cleaning is when cleaning is done improperly by not using a bore guide and smacking the jag of the ridge where groove and lands start, and people sticking a jag that's bigger diameter at the base than the rod out past the crown, pulling back in and hitting that lip on the crown. Also bronze brushes or copper brushes I do not use EVER. I use synthetic brushes and only two brands, boretech or IOSSO, and patches there is only one brand and it's butches triple twill. You can not tear one no matter what
As a Dr in family medicine I am more worried about exposure for long and repeated times to carcinogenic chemicals. Not that exposure to lead was not enough.
Hey Keith. I am using the BoreTech Carbon Remover now. I use that on three patches to make sure it's wet. Then I hit it with either JB Bore compound or Iosso, followed with Free All to clean it out or just CLP, followed by several dry patches and that does the trick. I can be done in under 30 minutes. I have noticed that the Free All will also remove copper fouling oddly enough.
I tried FreeAll, and it did help some after letting it soak. Also used Kroil and had similar effect. I did notice allowing the bore to soak for a day or two shortened cleaning time significantly and this is on 6 groove barrels not 5R. On the 5R it cut cleaning time in half.
We have been doing some successful work with Free All. Without getting into all of it, the barrels have had many more rounds of inadequate cleaning than yours had been shot since last cleaning. For our conditions soaking with Free All was needed, followed brushing and then patching out and then repeating taking several of these cycles to dig to the bottom of the carbon. There are some other tricks that are significant, but looking at your method, I think that you would have been better off to just work the entire barrel with a new brush after overnight soaking with Free All. This may be too slow for your needs but our situations were significantly different. The good news is that with this and some brushing tricks we were able to eventually get it all out with no damage to the barrel.
In the past, I have added Kroil to Hoppes to about 25%. This improved the amount of powder fouling I got out from a given amount of brushing with a bronze brush. Back then, I did not have a bore scope, and was not aware of hard carbon. I will say that I did not seem to have a problem with decreasing accuracy over time, and that I did a lot of brushing as part of my cleaning. More recently, a friend who has a bore scope wets his bore with Kroil, immediately after finishing shooting. Since starting that, he has not had problems with hard carbon accumulation. Evidently the Kroil keeps the powder fouling soft enough that bronze brushing will remove it. We both shoot benchrest, short range, so our round counts between cleaning are much smaller than yours, given the requirements of F class.
Thanks for recommending Free All !! This is the only product that I have found that has released the carbon. I have used Wipe Out, with and without Excellerator, Bore Tech's products, etc. After using Wipe Out, the patches would come out clean, but the bore scope indicated otherwise. I used a good bronze brush soaked with Free All, ran about 20 times back and forth, and let it sit for an hour or so. The first patch came out looking as black as the very first patch down a barrel with several hundred rounds through it. I will continue this process until the patches start to come out clean after brushing with Free All.
@@RCFrizz Not yet, next on my list. The patches keep coming out dirty using Free All, bore looks relatively clean, not dirty enough to make the patch all black, so I am wondering if Free All and brushing is bringing up carbon from the barrel.
I have just used sca disel injector cleaner with copper brush and the results were very good. Then I used patches and hoppies 9 and finally bore snake and oil.
You were absolutely right with the new bore brush, however I used numerous solvents that had little effect on a horrible fouled barrel I was trying to clean, the Rem 40x solvent did work great for me, if you have it try it I was going nuts finally I have a solution, again he was right about the brush that is needed, thanks for your help as well
Got the bore scope, found out my cleaning regiment is crap. Been scrubbing 4 hours, still has lots of Carbon build up. CLR, Free All, KG1 and Clenzoil, brush, sit, brush, patch out, scope, repeat and repeat and repeat... New Bronze brushes, new Tipton Nylon brushes.... is there no end?
Thanks for making this video. I am shooting a barrel with 400 rounds through it. I did a thorough break in process (twice), and since have been enjoying the gun and cleaning with my regular process, not using my borescope. I had a panic attack on Monday (Bisley Open starts Friday) when I checked my barrel with a borescope and found a heavy carbon deposit about 8 inches long ahead of the chamber. I have been working on it for the last 4 days with MP4, JB, and C4. Nothing seems to work quickly. I use a bronze brush sparingly during my regular cleaning process and I think the age of it was the source of the problem. It was worn, and was only acting on a small portion of the rifling, leaving most of the carbon where it was (although first patch was always black). I have only this afternoon to get range time for fouling shots. Lots of carbon to go... I agree with you in that I have always shied away from 'magic' chemicals borrowed from the automotive industry as I know how vulnerable some of the ingredients in stainless alloys are from welding the stuff. Remember Outboard Motor Cleaner?
My decades of barrel cleaning have shown me that carbon and copper do form alternating layers in the bore. Has anyone else here used the Remington Bore cleaner made with simple mineral oil and a fine abrasive? It's been a mainstay on my bench since the early 1990's. Unscientific but cleans out carbon impressively.
Bronsin I have a Lyman Borescope to monitor wear now. This cleaner is also the best thing I’ve found yet for easy removal of plastic wad residue inside choke tubes.
@@14goldmedals The Remington cleaner I have is oil with abrasive in it. It works great for removing lead from handgun barrels too, but there is no way that I'm putting that stuff in a rifle barrel. The grit is way too coarse. I have no problem with Flitz, IOSSO, or JB, but those abrasives are fine as dust. The Remcleaner will hone stuff out. I've had a Hawkeye for 15 years, so I'm confident in what I use.
Have you ever used Kroil? This is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. It is made by Kano Laboratories in Tennessee. After watching this video I am going to do some experimenting of my own. Going to soak the bore overnight and see what the patches show. I am 74 years old and have been addicted to Hoppes #9 solvent since I was in my single digit years. This could be really interesting. I learn new things every time I watch one of your videos. Very happy you are around and willing to share your knowledge!
So glad I watched this. Was using a similar procedure. But, I was only using patches. Got a nylon brush, used my same procedure, but agitated with the brush before patching it clean! The hard carbon is 100% gone! Anyway, no need to resort to CLR. I used kroil, not free all.
Did a heavy clean out with Boretech on my 30/06 6 months ago. One patch soaked with free all and 5 strokes with a new brass brush and repatch, totally black patch. Repeat 3 times and every patch is black.
Still cleaning out my 30/06 barrel. Patched and brushed it Bore Tech carbon remover, light gray patch. Then I patched and brushed it with Free All, black patch.
Frank Green from Bartlein Barrels at min 37 in a "Believe The Target" YOUTube interviews has a cautionary view on brushes and ebasives in rifle barrels. BoreTech C4 works great on rimfire carbon but barely dents baked on carbon. I can soak baked on carbon with C4 for and hour and patches come out clean.
Barrel cleaning is one of the most controversial subjects on the internet. I can tell you that there are a lot of the top shooters, in multiple disciplines, that use abrasives and brushes (even together) regularly. Is it ideal for barrel life? Most don't care because barrels are consumables just like components. In F-Open, we remove barrels from service before they stop shooting well, and never even give them the opportunity to wear completely out.
Oh I understand all that. Just thinking the guy that makes the barrels they use has some perspective when he has seen what that combo can do to a new barrel. You don't have to sell me on anything, just thought you might be interested in the interview that Eric Cortina did with an expert in the field and what he has seen. That's why I even gave you the time stamp for the portion it was discussed. But if you are comfortable you are more experienced, hey that's ok with me.@@winninginthewind
The method I use involves Hoppes Elite mixed with Kroil. I do 80 two way passes through the barrel adding solvent after every 10 passes. Let soak for an hour patch out and I’m done. Then I put Corrosion X on a patch and swab the barrel. I leave it there and shoot the rifle. I had a 6BR that I did an experiment with, I cleaned it like that and wasn’t going to clean again til either the season was over or the rifle told me to. Long story short, I had a little over 600 through it since it was cleaned, powder was varget. Last match of the year was 100, 200 and 300. Possible 150 15X, I shot 150 13x. Haven’t changed my method of cleaning since. Rifle was a factory Savage LRPV.
I use wipeout bore cleaner for few hours then blast it out and then use brass brush with flitz on it. Always worked for me. I do agree that you got to buy a bulk of brass brush. I can only use it once or twice.
I have been using CRC Brakeclean for 30 years ,its made to shift carbon. semi autos I will spay it in the action till it runs clean ,never pull it to bits blow all crap out with air gun . then spray with WD40 blow off excess then wipe with rag .WD40 has fish oil in it the same oil they put in car doors & sills to stop rust. I like my semi autos clean & dry //
Use c.l.r bung up the barrel fill up leave overnight job done no brushing at all ,carbon ring completely gone used in all my barrels,accuracy always better,
Here at 1am to cancel out my wife’s snoring. Hoping that what I listen to while I sleep is 💯 % absorbed. This might work if I stopped watching my phone…..
The fire cracking actually has tiny burrs on the edges. A bronze brush wipes those burrs away making the crack bigger. Shoot again, more burrs form, brush again, cracking gets bigger yet. You're better off using an abrasive like Bore Brite or Iosso. This why hall of fame benchresters like 'Speedy' Gonzalas and Jack Neary don't use bronze brushes.
@@Spruce-Bug Paste. J-B is better than iosso. I've recently discovered iosso gives a false indication of carbon. It will always come out black because that's what iosso does even if there is no carbon.
Sound great. Next trick is Getting , My wife to reclean her weapon. Cleaning patches Come out clean. It's done. I think I should hind the oven clearer. Removing carbon from a barrel Do feel she think it works on OLD COOKING POTS.
The problem with a bronze brush is when it goes over the fire cracking typically in the first 6 inches or so. The rest of the barrel no big deal. So for all the bronze brushers out there...Do you drag your brush back through the muzzle? Why not? The muzzle is the same steel as the rest of barrel, Right?
I'm curious, did you ever post your video about soaking the barrel overnight with just Free All?? What was your result?? Also, does it matter if I use 99% isopropyl alcohol instead of Acetone for washing out the Free All?? Have you or anyone tried KE-150 by Kinzua Chemicals for cleaning?? It says it is specifically made to clean Stainless Steel and is a metal polish...
Great questions. I wish Winning in the Wind had answered. I just found his first two cleaning videos and was anxiously looking for the soaking video - that doesn't seem to exist. And, due to splitting headaches from using Acetone, I'd opt for alcohol instead.
I don't think it matters which you use. Of course, you should remove as much Free All as you can with dry patches before flushing the barrel. It doesn't hurt to run two acetone or alcohol soaked patches through the barrel after removing the Free All -- one in each direction. On a related note, there's a "dirty little secret" about acetone and degreasing. Techncal/industrial-grade acetone, which is what Walmart and Home Depot sell, has impurities, which usually includes tiny amounts of oil. I learned this from a gunsmith who said he has had parkerizing and bluing jobs ruined by using acetone to degrease. If you don't know, for a good parkerizing or bluing, the metal has to be 100% free of contaminants, especially oil. After he learned his lesson, he would degrease the workpiece with acetone, and rinse it with 99% isopropyl before the acetone evaporated.
There are many carbon solvent brands, but what they won't tell you is that there is no solvent that can remove the carbon by itself. I use these solvents to soften the carbon layer by letting soking 10 to 15 minutes before using the bronze brush. My trick to see if there is too much carbon in the barrel is to push the cleaning rod slowly and continuously from the chamber to the breech. If it stops, that means there is some carbon there, so I need to keep on brushing (usually it takes around 15 to 20 passes). Be careful with amonia based copper solvents, barrel makers recommend to avoid leaving it more than 10 minutes into the barrel, especially if it isn't stainless steel. I avoid using abrasives pastes as long as I can, only sometimes to remove the carbon ring when I see it with the borescope.
Free All took out all of carbon on a 50 year old M77. Used up a bag of patches and my shoulder is still sore. Bore Tech Carbon Remover wouldn’t even touch that carbon.
@@michaelgarrow3239 the copper bristles would wear down rendering the brush useless WAY before any steel will touch the barrel. Every single brush nylon or brass has a steel center so...
I enjoyed you carbon removal series very much and DO find value, in comparing them with my own practices. I have heard of using CLR from Eric Cortina but have not tried it. I have carefully used brake solvent in the past but have settled on using anything containing PEA, commonly found in carbon solvents for engines. Then I just use a homemade slurry of Wenol metal polish, acetone, and ATF just because Wenol is WAY cheaper than JB, and Acetone/ATF are WAY cheaper than Kroil.
I'll have to give it a try. You aren't going hurt anything on a barrel with seafoam and it is excellent on engine heads. I've used my borescope and check in the combustion chamber and Seafoam is effective in a combustion chamber as long as you keep up a good schedule. I bet it works well on powder residue.
Hi @Winning in the wind. Thank you for sharing this info. How do you determine when barrel needs carbon remove to bare metal? I found for myself that after brushing with bronze next solvent patches are blue, suspecting copper from bronze. BTW bore tech bronze brushes are more robust then dewey ones as for me. Cheers!
Just to make sure, when you say you leave it soaking, what you mean is that you plug one end of the barrel and then fill up the barrel with FreeAll and leave it filled up all night long, am I right?
Understood! Thanks a lot for the clarification! I’m trying this out this weekend, got a barrel that I can’t get carbon out from, I’ve done a fair share of patch out and accelerator, but I think I need to try soaking that very same way! Thanks again for the help! This is great content!!!
I have a number of custom barrels from Bartlein and that's the cleaning regimen I use after consultation with them. In addition to these comprehensive cleanings, I do a quick cleaning with Bore Tech products every 40-50 rounds. It's strange that the author can see the huge impact after he used JB but it's not one of his takeaways.
Very similar to speedy's method which is what I use. kroil and JB bore paste when it's dirty. You can soak with kroilwould not leave it in a barrel for more than 24 hours. I put some precision reamers in kroil for storage one time and it ruined them. This stuff is super strong. Loving your videos keep up the good work
Thank you for your videos, they have helped me with my shooting and reloading. I do not shoot competitive, but I want to shoot better and make my rifles shoot as well as they and I can. I do not want to sound stupid, but I would like to know why you use acetone after using solvents/cleaners in your barrels?
There are a few FOAMNG cleaners that should work just fine. Have you tried a foam cleaner ? Hoppes and other companies offer foam cleaners for your barrel.
I am going to try Free All when mine arrives from Amazon. Something just occurred to me. Will any of these carbon cutting solvents remove the carbon from the carbon fiber on my cleaning rod? I am using Mercury Outboard "Power Tune" carbon remover and my Tipton Cleaning Rod seem to be getting gray. Just a thought.
Any ideas for cleaning the matte (chrome) finish on my lower Tanfoglio? Carbon comes off the the shiney chrom but the matte finish around the lower rail stays dirty! Thanks
Barrel break in is only needed when your barrel is brand new. In my rifles I get better accuracy after cleaning, except for the 1 to 3 first shots (it depends on the barrel)
Cleaning to bare steel is a common occurrence around here. It shoots good before, and shoots good after. The key is to not let it get so bad that it starts shooting poorly. The barrel has remained broken in for every cleaning before, so I'm guessing it'll do the same again. I'll chronograph the next time I shoot it (this weekend).
I got a tip on that about 25 years ago, and never stopped using it. A couple of Benchrest guys I knew swore it was THE thing. It's what I flush the barrel with first before I start patches or brushing. the black carbon literally drips out the end ( my cleaning vice is on a downward 30 degree angle. I used to buy it by the case and offer it as prizes at some of our shoots. I DO miss the older cans with the shaving-cream style nozzles, but the new ones with the integrated fine pipette mean fewer surprise blasts all over the action and lugs. Great product.
You made a very good video. But from the picture that I saw, it made me wonder if the cracking of the inner wall of the barrel both at the groove and on the ridge is normal or not. And will this unidirectional float affect the speed of the bullet? Finally, I hope you will make more good academic videos like this.
Fire cracking is completely normal on barrels, if that's what you're referring to. It can affect bullet velocities as the fire cracking gets worse at higher and higher rounds counts, though a quick cleaning with abrasives usually brings that velocity back down
Stress fractures (a.k.a fire cracking) happen almost immediately in the life of an F-class barrel. The cracking shown is not detrimental to precision, and the barrel shown has given me several hundred additional accurate rounds of performance. Eventually, the barrel gets to the point where it requires additional load development or starts hitting off-call shots. Neither of which is worth the cost of components to do. It is at that point that I give up on a barrel. Borescopes have the inherent danger of convincing oneself that a barrel is done, when it has a lot more to give.
U don't need to do that. Your actually hurting your barrel life doing that much and you accuracy will be off for awhile after until the imperfections get filled bak in. Never noticed how diff the first 3 shits shoot after cleaning. Well now you def will
I’ve looked at the Teslog bore scope your right inexpensive and Ultimate Reloader even did a review. My problem is it only works with Android devices and Microsoft. I’m a Apple guy.
@@winninginthewind Thanks for the video from over a year ago but I had a barrel that I tried everything to get tge hard carbon out and this Free All w/a new brush worked like magic! Thank you so much for posting the vid!!!
I had hard carbon left after deep cleaning with patches only for days…. Did the same procedure and used a nylon brush to break up the carbon after wet patching with kroil, the jb bore past with the nylon brush. It destroyed the hard carbon in about 20 min of work. Did the procedure twice. It was a cheapo junk nylon brush too. Got some good ones coming from Sinclair now!
I use nylon brushes wrapped with a patch to carry the JB Bore paste. I will never use a bronze brush again. I have a Tikka .308 that didn't copper foul at all in the first 500 rounds. Solvent and patches completely cleaned it. Old habits got the better of me and I used a bronze brush. Copper fouls all the time now. 🤬
Sir I don’t understand what is SLR, I can’t find translation of SLR😔 I’m not American, can tell me what is it SLR, what for it use, I mean where it uses for another porpoises. Sorry for my English
Any of your fellow competitors use Microlon Gun Juice? It's a treatment for new/clean barrels. My experience has been, it eliminates/reduces that carbon/copper build-up in the first place. Started using it years ago for my .17 Remington. 200 yard dime size group after 125 rounds. I pretty much put it in everything now. The older guns I've had good luck with Slip2000 Carbon Killer for breaking down Carbon.
You should try an ultrasonic cleaner, that should obliterate carbon. Probably not viable for a hobbyist, but a professional like yourself can probably justify it.
Okay, I realize that this video is over a year old (I just found your channel). Question: Is it safe to use reverse strokes with a bronze bore brush?? I have always just used a forward stroke (and it takes a LOT of them to clean a barrel). I had it in my head that reverse strokes can damage the bore, but I can't remember if I read that or just dreamed it up in my head. I have a couple of barrels I need to clean and would like to know before I clean them.
Keith - Use this product with a Parker Hale jag and you’ll be amazed how easily all the carbon is completely gone with very little effort. shop.kgcoatings.com/kg/product/kg-2-bore-polish/
A note of Caution from a viewer - Free-All is stinky stuff. Use it in a well ventilated area!
I second that. I made the mistake of using it in my gun room the first time and I'm not sensitive to the chemicals used in cleaning in any way. That stuff did a magnificent job of removing hard carbon in an old M1 Garand that I picked up, it looked like it had never seen a brush but the vapors sent me for a loop and not a good one. I spent 16 hours on the couch with nausea and a slight headache. 24 hours later I was fine but it's the last time I'll use it in my house. It's not just stinky and I'll only use it where I do my casting, out in the driveway.
bore tech carbon remover ???
After watching your videos on barrel cleaning I ordered FreeAll and JB Bore Paste. I have just replaced a barrel on one of my 223s that has over 6000 rounds though it. (I shoot a LOT of rock chucks) That barrel looked terrible in my borescope. With it off of the rifle I had nothing to loose so I went to work cleaning it. I ran several patches soaked with FreeAll though then used a bronze brush followed by more patches. Then I wrapped patches around a worn out brush and slathered it with the JB paste and went to work. After a good scrubbing and then flushed out with more patches I have to say that the barrel looks better than I ever remember it looking. I've now used this method on all of my chuck rifles and 5 test loads through a cold clean barrel made a 1/2 inch hole. Thanks for the tips.
how can you not have 100k subscribers? you're videos are not only informative, but concise. I very much appreciate your presentation style. shoot straight!
I used to work in an oil refinery.
One of the standard procedures for removing carbon or bitumen is to soak in warm to hot diesel.
I plug the barrel with a roll up ear plug and , positioning the barrel vertically, fill it with diesel and sit it somewhere safe out in the hot sun or somewhere similar to provide the heat.
A couple of days for a really fouled barrel and a absolute minimum of brushing gets a phenomenal amount out.
Diesel will not harm the bluing but it’s tough on timber, it’s worth disassembly.
My 2c for you to think about.
Thanks! That's a good idea.
I thought I had a clean stainless steel rifle barrel since I was using Hopps #9... then I cleaned the same barrel with Hopps Elite foaming gun cleaner...
Whew! ...then here comes the copper... an amazing amount of copper came out of the barrel.
I rolled up a small piece of paper towel and plugged the barrel at the muzzel end and taped it off with masking tape and let the Hopps #9 set over night filling the barrel with a syringe.
To clean up I taped a small plastic water bottle to the barrel so the cleaning solvent (Hopps #9) wouldn't make a big mess everywhere.
The Elite foam gun cleaner is strong medicine and I did not leave it set long and would never let something like that set in a rifle barrel overnight.
Elite foaming gun cleaner has a high pH which is corosive. It said follow up and clean it out with Elite gun oil which I did and acetone and Hopps #9 and a pH neutralizer.
It says it removes carbon, lead and copper. Any solvent that cleans as well as Hopps Elite foaming gun cleaner needs to be used with caution since it has such a high pH.
I used barrel mops and nylon and copper brushes to clean the barrel.
Its crazy how toxic some of these bore cleaning chemicals are and I think everyone should wear nitril gloves and have good ventelation when working with barrel cleaners.
I use the same stuff in high volume 5.56 barrels. Removes all the crud !
I too have been using Iosso for lots of years. I also use their nylon brushes in the same caliber as I am cleaning. I coat the brush with Iosso and use it to clean the barrel. Ten back and forth strokes. Then I patch the bore, clean the nylon brush in carb cleaner and repeat the cleaning step again. My last step is to run a couple of Shooter's Choice wet patches through the bore followed by a dry patch. I don't have a bore scope, so I can't attest to removing all the carbon. Benchrest shooters have used this method for years.
I use the Eric Cortina method, Sharpshooter Patch out for copper and CLR on the carbon. If you use the CLR on a blued barrel be very careful as CLR will remove bluing. A barrel mop works good for applying.
I use a brush that's a caliber or 2 smaller than my bore, and wrap a patch around it. Coat that in Iosso Paste cleaner. Couple of passes (short stroking from chamber to muzzle) and it takes out the hard carbon better than JB or any solvent I've ever used. 5 minute job. No soak time. No days of waiting.
my gun smith told me he seen more rifles warn out by cleaning , than not cleaning /my Stelling .22 was not cleaned from new 1970 till 2010 1,000 to 2,000 rounds a year shooting rabbits best night 308 rabbits .still shoot thumb nail group at 75 yards no bipod then free hand shooting .
@@davidorpwood8433 your gunsmith is wrong, replace them.
@@davidorpwood8433, .22LR is a different animal.
We're talking about centrefire rifles shooting high velocity jacketed bullets here.
I do the exact same with both my light and unlimited 1000yd benrifles as well as all my custom rifles. Best way I found unless you buy the $1500 steam machine for it that works best and fasy
@@davidorpwood8433 your gunsmith is wrong my friend. I'm a gunsmith rifle builder and 1000yd benchrest shooter. I can tell you only time barrels get hurt from cleaning is when cleaning is done improperly by not using a bore guide and smacking the jag of the ridge where groove and lands start, and people sticking a jag that's bigger diameter at the base than the rod out past the crown, pulling back in and hitting that lip on the crown. Also bronze brushes or copper brushes I do not use EVER. I use synthetic brushes and only two brands, boretech or IOSSO, and patches there is only one brand and it's butches triple twill. You can not tear one no matter what
As a Dr in family medicine I am more worried about exposure for long and repeated times to carcinogenic chemicals. Not that exposure to lead was not enough.
I am glad to see "cleaned" barrels and the value of having a clean barrel with the use of a bore scope.
Hey Keith. I am using the BoreTech Carbon Remover now. I use that on three patches to make sure it's wet. Then I hit it with either JB Bore compound or Iosso, followed with Free All to clean it out or just CLP, followed by several dry patches and that does the trick. I can be done in under 30 minutes. I have noticed that the Free All will also remove copper fouling oddly enough.
I tried FreeAll, and it did help some after letting it soak. Also used Kroil and had similar effect. I did notice allowing the bore to soak for a day or two shortened cleaning time significantly and this is on 6 groove barrels not 5R. On the 5R it cut cleaning time in half.
We have been doing some successful work with Free All. Without getting into all of it, the barrels have had many more rounds of inadequate cleaning than yours had been shot since last cleaning. For our conditions soaking with Free All was needed, followed brushing and then patching out and then repeating taking several of these cycles to dig to the bottom of the carbon. There are some other tricks that are significant, but looking at your method, I think that you would have been better off to just work the entire barrel with a new brush after overnight soaking with Free All. This may be too slow for your needs but our situations were significantly different. The good news is that with this and some brushing tricks we were able to eventually get it all out with no damage to the barrel.
Have you ever used Kroil, and if so, how does it compare to Free All?
In the past, I have added Kroil to Hoppes to about 25%. This improved the amount of powder fouling I got out from a given amount of brushing with a bronze brush. Back then, I did not have a bore scope, and was not aware of hard carbon. I will say that I did not seem to have a problem with decreasing accuracy over time, and that I did a lot of brushing as part of my cleaning. More recently, a friend who has a bore scope wets his bore with Kroil, immediately after finishing shooting. Since starting that, he has not had problems with hard carbon accumulation. Evidently the Kroil keeps the powder fouling soft enough that bronze brushing will remove it. We both shoot benchrest, short range, so our round counts between cleaning are much smaller than yours, given the requirements of F class.
Thanks for recommending Free All !! This is the only product that I have found that has released the carbon. I have used Wipe Out, with and without Excellerator, Bore Tech's products, etc. After using Wipe Out, the patches would come out clean, but the bore scope indicated otherwise. I used a good bronze brush soaked with Free All, ran about 20 times back and forth, and let it sit for an hour or so. The first patch came out looking as black as the very first patch down a barrel with several hundred rounds through it. I will continue this process until the patches start to come out clean after brushing with Free All.
Have you ever tried Kroil?
@@RCFrizz Not yet, next on my list. The patches keep coming out dirty using Free All, bore looks relatively clean, not dirty enough to make the patch all black, so I am wondering if Free All and brushing is bringing up carbon from the barrel.
I have just used sca disel injector cleaner with copper brush and the results were very good. Then I used patches and hoppies 9 and finally bore snake and oil.
You were absolutely right with the new bore brush, however I used numerous solvents that had little effect on a horrible fouled barrel I was trying to clean, the Rem 40x solvent did work great for me, if you have it try it I was going nuts finally I have a solution, again he was right about the brush that is needed, thanks for your help as well
Got the bore scope, found out my cleaning regiment is crap. Been scrubbing 4 hours, still has lots of Carbon build up. CLR, Free All, KG1 and Clenzoil, brush, sit, brush, patch out, scope, repeat and repeat and repeat... New Bronze brushes, new Tipton Nylon brushes.... is there no end?
Thanks for making this video. I am shooting a barrel with 400 rounds through it. I did a thorough break in process (twice), and since have been enjoying the gun and cleaning with my regular process, not using my borescope. I had a panic attack on Monday (Bisley Open starts Friday) when I checked my barrel with a borescope and found a heavy carbon deposit about 8 inches long ahead of the chamber. I have been working on it for the last 4 days with MP4, JB, and C4. Nothing seems to work quickly. I use a bronze brush sparingly during my regular cleaning process and I think the age of it was the source of the problem. It was worn, and was only acting on a small portion of the rifling, leaving most of the carbon where it was (although first patch was always black). I have only this afternoon to get range time for fouling shots. Lots of carbon to go... I agree with you in that I have always shied away from 'magic' chemicals borrowed from the automotive industry as I know how vulnerable some of the ingredients in stainless alloys are from welding the stuff. Remember Outboard Motor Cleaner?
My decades of barrel cleaning have shown me that carbon and copper do form alternating layers in the bore. Has anyone else here used the Remington Bore cleaner made with simple mineral oil and a fine abrasive? It's been a mainstay on my bench since the early 1990's. Unscientific but cleans out carbon impressively.
Yes. It is way too aggressive for regular use.
Bronsin I have a Lyman Borescope to monitor wear now. This cleaner is also the best thing I’ve found yet for easy removal of plastic wad residue inside choke tubes.
I thought it's just acetone. No?
goosecouple I don’t think so because it doesn’t evaporate like acetone.
@@14goldmedals The Remington cleaner I have is oil with abrasive in it. It works great for removing lead from handgun barrels too, but there is no way that I'm putting that stuff in a rifle barrel. The grit is way too coarse. I have no problem with Flitz, IOSSO, or JB, but those abrasives are fine as dust. The Remcleaner will hone stuff out. I've had a Hawkeye for 15 years, so I'm confident in what I use.
Have you ever used Kroil? This is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. It is made by Kano Laboratories in Tennessee. After watching this video I am going to do some experimenting of my own. Going to soak the bore overnight and see what the patches show. I am 74 years old and have been addicted to Hoppes #9 solvent since I was in my single digit years. This could be really interesting. I learn new things every time I watch one of your videos. Very happy you are around and willing to share your knowledge!
So glad I watched this. Was using a similar procedure. But, I was only using patches. Got a nylon brush, used my same procedure, but agitated with the brush before patching it clean! The hard carbon is 100% gone! Anyway, no need to resort to CLR. I used kroil, not free all.
Stainless Steel barrel ?
Did a heavy clean out with Boretech on my 30/06 6 months ago. One patch soaked with free all and 5 strokes with a new brass brush and repatch, totally black patch. Repeat 3 times and every patch is black.
Still cleaning out my 30/06 barrel. Patched and brushed it Bore Tech carbon remover, light gray patch. Then I patched and brushed it with Free All, black patch.
Frank Green from Bartlein Barrels at min 37 in a "Believe The Target" YOUTube interviews has a cautionary view on brushes and ebasives in rifle barrels. BoreTech C4 works great on rimfire carbon but barely dents baked on carbon. I can soak baked on carbon with C4 for and hour and patches come out clean.
Barrel cleaning is one of the most controversial subjects on the internet. I can tell you that there are a lot of the top shooters, in multiple disciplines, that use abrasives and brushes (even together) regularly. Is it ideal for barrel life? Most don't care because barrels are consumables just like components. In F-Open, we remove barrels from service before they stop shooting well, and never even give them the opportunity to wear completely out.
Oh I understand all that. Just thinking the guy that makes the barrels they use has some perspective when he has seen what that combo can do to a new barrel. You don't have to sell me on anything, just thought you might be interested in the interview that Eric Cortina did with an expert in the field and what he has seen. That's why I even gave you the time stamp for the portion it was discussed. But if you are comfortable you are more experienced, hey that's ok with me.@@winninginthewind
The method I use involves Hoppes Elite mixed with Kroil. I do 80 two way passes through the barrel adding solvent after every 10 passes. Let soak for an hour patch out and I’m done. Then I put Corrosion X on a patch and swab the barrel. I leave it there and shoot the rifle. I had a 6BR that I did an experiment with, I cleaned it like that and wasn’t going to clean again til either the season was over or the rifle told me to. Long story short, I had a little over 600 through it since it was cleaned, powder was varget. Last match of the year was 100, 200 and 300. Possible 150 15X, I shot 150 13x. Haven’t changed my method of cleaning since. Rifle was a factory Savage LRPV.
I use wipeout bore cleaner for few hours then blast it out and then use brass brush with flitz on it. Always worked for me. I do agree that you got to buy a bulk of brass brush. I can only use it once or twice.
You give great tips Keith. I hope this finds you well.GOD Bless you and yours.Stay Safe & Healthy.
I have been using CRC Brakeclean for 30 years ,its made to shift carbon. semi autos I will spay it in the action till it runs clean ,never pull it to bits blow all crap out with air gun . then spray with WD40 blow off excess then wipe with rag .WD40 has fish oil in it the same oil they put in car doors & sills to stop rust. I like my semi autos clean & dry //
I used CLR for the first time today. It works, but also takes the blueing off too. Basically, it ducks up every thing it touches!!
Not surprising given bluing is a form of rust. You have to be careful.
Use c.l.r bung up the barrel fill up leave overnight job done no brushing at all ,carbon ring completely gone used in all my barrels,accuracy always better,
Are you checking this with a borescope?
@@fentonpainter7907 check every time perfect
Excellent. Thank you.
Sounds like the JB Bore Paste did the most work. George Gardner says to let bores soak in copper/carbon solvent for an hour before cleaning.
Here at 1am to cancel out my wife’s snoring. Hoping that what I listen to while I sleep is 💯 % absorbed. This might work if I stopped watching my phone…..
Same, suffering rite now.
I really appreciate your time and content! Off to the parts store. I'ts a chore to get the ring out in my 223 AI
Tried out several penetrating oils and automotive carb cleaners. Also tried Simple Green. Free All still produced the dirtiest patches.
The fire cracking actually has tiny burrs on the edges. A bronze brush wipes those burrs away making the crack bigger. Shoot again, more burrs form, brush again, cracking gets bigger yet. You're better off using an abrasive like Bore Brite or Iosso. This why hall of fame benchresters like 'Speedy' Gonzalas and Jack Neary don't use bronze brushes.
What do you mean by abraissive? Like a JB bore paste, or are you referring to nylon brushes?
@@Spruce-Bug Paste. J-B is better than iosso. I've recently discovered iosso gives a false indication of carbon. It will always come out black because that's what iosso does even if there is no carbon.
Sound great. Next trick is
Getting , My wife to reclean
her weapon. Cleaning patches
Come out clean. It's done.
I think I should hind the oven clearer. Removing carbon from a barrel
Do feel she think it works on
OLD COOKING POTS.
Where do you get high quality bronze brushes ib BULK from???
why are you using BoreTech Elemintor for Carbon, why not BoreTech Carbon remover?
It would have handeled the residue proper
Now I use IOSSO to clean my Sabatti barrel, it's long to clean and do all the process but it's clean.
The problem with a bronze brush is when it goes over the fire cracking typically in the first 6 inches or so. The rest of the barrel no big deal. So for all the bronze brushers out there...Do you drag your brush back through the muzzle? Why not? The muzzle is the same steel as the rest of barrel, Right?
I tried CLR but it didn't shift the baked on carbon in my AI but JB bore paste shifted it no problem.
Been seeing where guys are using oven cleaner. Makes sense since ovens do get coated with hard carbon after prolonged use.
K b 12 works w Berger cooper but ol school went it comes to everything else
I'm curious, did you ever post your video about soaking the barrel overnight with just Free All?? What was your result??
Also, does it matter if I use 99% isopropyl alcohol instead of Acetone for washing out the Free All?? Have you or anyone tried KE-150 by Kinzua Chemicals for cleaning?? It says it is specifically made to clean Stainless Steel and is a metal polish...
Great questions. I wish Winning in the Wind had answered. I just found his first two cleaning videos and was anxiously looking for the soaking video - that doesn't seem to exist. And, due to splitting headaches from using Acetone, I'd opt for alcohol instead.
I don't think it matters which you use. Of course, you should remove as much Free All as you can with dry patches before flushing the barrel. It doesn't hurt to run two acetone or alcohol soaked patches through the barrel after removing the Free All -- one in each direction.
On a related note, there's a "dirty little secret" about acetone and degreasing. Techncal/industrial-grade acetone, which is what Walmart and Home Depot sell, has impurities, which usually includes tiny amounts of oil. I learned this from a gunsmith who said he has had parkerizing and bluing jobs ruined by using acetone to degrease.
If you don't know, for a good parkerizing or bluing, the metal has to be 100% free of contaminants, especially oil. After he learned his lesson, he would degrease the workpiece with acetone, and rinse it with 99% isopropyl before the acetone evaporated.
There are many carbon solvent brands, but what they won't tell you is that there is no solvent that can remove the carbon by itself. I use these solvents to soften the carbon layer by letting soking 10 to 15 minutes before using the bronze brush. My trick to see if there is too much carbon in the barrel is to push the cleaning rod slowly and continuously from the chamber to the breech. If it stops, that means there is some carbon there, so I need to keep on brushing (usually it takes around 15 to 20 passes). Be careful with amonia based copper solvents, barrel makers recommend to avoid leaving it more than 10 minutes into the barrel, especially if it isn't stainless steel. I avoid using abrasives pastes as long as I can, only sometimes to remove the carbon ring when I see it with the borescope.
Free All took out all of carbon on a 50 year old M77. Used up a bag of patches and my shoulder is still sore. Bore Tech Carbon Remover wouldn’t even touch that carbon.
Dude cmon..that brass brush will NEVER hurt the barrel and you should know this. If it did a barrel wouldn't last more than 100 rounds!
Yeah that’s where he lost me….
Cheep brass brushes have steel in the center. The twistie part….
@@michaelgarrow3239 the copper bristles would wear down rendering the brush useless WAY before any steel will touch the barrel. Every single brush nylon or brass has a steel center so...
@@MaxairEngineering then you need to learn the proper way to clean
@@michaelgarrow3239hey curious, what do you mean “check with Sinclair.”? Thanks alot
I enjoyed you carbon removal series very much and DO find value, in comparing them with my own practices. I have heard of using CLR from Eric Cortina but have not tried it. I have carefully used brake solvent in the past but have settled on using anything containing PEA, commonly found in carbon solvents for engines. Then I just use a homemade slurry of Wenol metal polish, acetone, and ATF just because Wenol is WAY cheaper than JB, and Acetone/ATF are WAY cheaper than Kroil.
I have used CLR. Works like magic……
I use seafoam.
I'll have to give it a try. You aren't going hurt anything on a barrel with seafoam and it is excellent on engine heads. I've used my borescope and check in the combustion chamber and Seafoam is effective in a combustion chamber as long as you keep up a good schedule. I bet it works well on powder residue.
@@Jeff_Seely it has helped remove OLD carbon on some seriously neglected rifles
Well it contains PEA and that stuff cuts carbon pretty well so I have no doubts.
Hi @Winning in the wind. Thank you for sharing this info. How do you determine when barrel needs carbon remove to bare metal? I found for myself that after brushing with bronze next solvent patches are blue, suspecting copper from bronze. BTW bore tech bronze brushes are more robust then dewey ones as for me. Cheers!
Just to make sure, when you say you leave it soaking, what you mean is that you plug one end of the barrel and then fill up the barrel with FreeAll and leave it filled up all night long, am I right?
No, I just get it wet with loose fitting patches, and let it sit.
Understood! Thanks a lot for the clarification! I’m trying this out this weekend, got a barrel that I can’t get carbon out from, I’ve done a fair share of patch out and accelerator, but I think I need to try soaking that very same way! Thanks again for the help! This is great content!!!
JB Bore Paste is the only thing that works for me on getting rid of carbon - every 200 rounds and that keeps on top of carbon build up.
I have a number of custom barrels from Bartlein and that's the cleaning regimen I use after consultation with them. In addition to these comprehensive cleanings, I do a quick cleaning with Bore Tech products every 40-50 rounds. It's strange that the author can see the huge impact after he used JB but it's not one of his takeaways.
Iosso Bore cleaner gets the carbon out with the premium blue nylon brushes. It also gets out the copper.
Very similar to speedy's method which is what I use. kroil and JB bore paste when it's dirty. You can soak with kroilwould not leave it in a barrel for more than 24 hours. I put some precision reamers in kroil for storage one time and it ruined them. This stuff is super strong. Loving your videos keep up the good work
Hi, did you consider doing it with a hot barrel ?
What do you think about Iosso paste?
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your videos, they have helped me with my shooting and reloading. I do not shoot competitive, but I want to shoot better and make my rifles shoot as well as they and I can. I do not want to sound stupid, but I would like to know why you use acetone after using solvents/cleaners in your barrels?
There are a few FOAMNG cleaners that should work just fine. Have you tried a foam cleaner ? Hoppes and other companies offer foam cleaners for your barrel.
yes, and they did little more than other solvents on the market.
I am going to try Free All when mine arrives from Amazon. Something just occurred to me. Will any of these carbon cutting solvents remove the carbon from the carbon fiber on my cleaning rod?
I am using Mercury Outboard "Power Tune" carbon remover and my Tipton Cleaning Rod seem to be getting gray.
Just a thought.
Wow, uhg! Some guys say not to use bronze brushes.
Please do a video with CLR and then thorroclean. Amazing results....and fast....
Greetings from South Africa
Wilson Combat makes a carbon remover that I like pretty well. Everybody has their own favorite, but you might want to give it a try.
What about using MontanaExtreme nylon brushes a hard nylon?
Any ideas for cleaning the matte (chrome) finish on my lower Tanfoglio? Carbon comes off the the shiney chrom but the matte finish around the lower rail stays dirty! Thanks
No, sorry
Did accuracy improve after getting the carbon out? Did you have to break-in the barrel again?
Barrel break in is only needed when your barrel is brand new. In my rifles I get better accuracy after cleaning, except for the 1 to 3 first shots (it depends on the barrel)
Cleaning to bare steel is a common occurrence around here. It shoots good before, and shoots good after. The key is to not let it get so bad that it starts shooting poorly.
The barrel has remained broken in for every cleaning before, so I'm guessing it'll do the same again. I'll chronograph the next time I shoot it (this weekend).
great video thanks champ🤠
Have you tried Quicksilver Power Tune for removing carbon? (Outboard Motor Product.)
I got a tip on that about 25 years ago, and never stopped using it. A couple of Benchrest guys I knew swore it was THE thing. It's what I flush the barrel with first before I start patches or brushing. the black carbon literally drips out the end ( my cleaning vice is on a downward 30 degree angle. I used to buy it by the case and offer it as prizes at some of our shoots. I DO miss the older cans with the shaving-cream style nozzles, but the new ones with the integrated fine pipette mean fewer surprise blasts all over the action and lugs. Great product.
Look like I landed on the right video, you have mentioned a link on the bore brushes you preferred, can you share?
You made a very good video. But from the picture that I saw, it made me wonder if the cracking of the inner wall of the barrel both at the groove and on the ridge is normal or not. And will this unidirectional float affect the speed of the bullet? Finally, I hope you will make more good academic videos like this.
Fire cracking is completely normal on barrels, if that's what you're referring to. It can affect bullet velocities as the fire cracking gets worse at higher and higher rounds counts, though a quick cleaning with abrasives usually brings that velocity back down
You see them stress fractures? Forget the carbon, your barrel is toast man! Might get some more miles out of it but JEEZ!!
Stress fractures (a.k.a fire cracking) happen almost immediately in the life of an F-class barrel. The cracking shown is not detrimental to precision, and the barrel shown has given me several hundred additional accurate rounds of performance. Eventually, the barrel gets to the point where it requires additional load development or starts hitting off-call shots. Neither of which is worth the cost of components to do. It is at that point that I give up on a barrel.
Borescopes have the inherent danger of convincing oneself that a barrel is done, when it has a lot more to give.
U don't need to do that. Your actually hurting your barrel life doing that much and you accuracy will be off for awhile after until the imperfections get filled bak in. Never noticed how diff the first 3 shits shoot after cleaning. Well now you def will
Does Carburetor cleaner remove the carbon?
I use ThorroCleen , it's super easy to kleen out carbon in whit a bronz brush and TC
i found what works best for hard carbon is harsh nasty words, and throwing stuff
Do whatever works for you!
Ever heard of Hoppies ?
Used it for years. Works like other solvents.
I’ve looked at the Teslog bore scope your right inexpensive and Ultimate Reloader even did a review. My problem is it only works with Android devices and Microsoft. I’m a Apple guy.
I use the WiFi version with Apple. Works great!
The borescope video was recorded on my iPad.
@@winninginthewind Got mine yesterday thanks for the tip on getting the WiFi version.
Buy the 4.5 inch screen with it. Has mini sd card
Can the JB bore paste damage or erode the bore of used for deep cleaning over time?
Anything abrasive can damage anything. Try testing it on a piece of steel to see if you can change the dimensions.
How the barrel shoot with that much firecracking in it?
More than good enough to win F-class matches.
@@winninginthewind Thanks for the video from over a year ago but I had a barrel that I tried everything to get tge hard carbon out and this Free All w/a new brush worked like magic! Thank you so much for posting the vid!!!
Eric Cortina swears by clr for hard carbon removal from stainless.
Could you narrate my textbooks for me? Thank you!
I see some folks recommending nylon brushes over brass. Any thoughts on nylon?
I had hard carbon left after deep cleaning with patches only for days…. Did the same procedure and used a nylon brush to break up the carbon after wet patching with kroil, the jb bore past with the nylon brush. It destroyed the hard carbon in about 20 min of work. Did the procedure twice. It was a cheapo junk nylon brush too. Got some good ones coming from Sinclair now!
I use nylon brushes wrapped with a patch to carry the JB Bore paste. I will never use a bronze brush again. I have a Tikka .308 that didn't copper foul at all in the first 500 rounds. Solvent and patches completely cleaned it. Old habits got the better of me and I used a bronze brush. Copper fouls all the time now. 🤬
Sir I don’t understand what is SLR, I can’t find translation of SLR😔 I’m not American, can tell me what is it SLR, what for it use, I mean where it uses for another porpoises.
Sorry for my English
I think you meant “CLR” not “SLR”? clrbrands.com/Products/CLR-Household/CLR-Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover
@@58harwood thank you Sir 🤝
C l r bathroom product for toilet rings mix w water to clean water spots and cuts rust on piping porcelain
It would be interesting to test effectiveness of WD40?
Have you tried butch bore shine
Yes, works like other solvents. Certainly didn't do any more against hard carbon.
Will free-all hurt bluing?
I don't know. I haven't tried it.
I just noticed that this video is over 2 years old. Do you still recommend free all or have you found something better?
Any of your fellow competitors use Microlon Gun Juice? It's a treatment for new/clean barrels. My experience has been, it eliminates/reduces that carbon/copper build-up in the first place. Started using it years ago for my .17 Remington. 200 yard dime size group after 125 rounds.
I pretty much put it in everything now. The older guns I've had good luck with Slip2000 Carbon Killer for breaking down Carbon.
I honestly have never heard of it before.
3
I’m confused, I think is carbon that caused bullet to stuck inside when fired.
Use Kroil instead. It has Ketones as well.
You should try an ultrasonic cleaner, that should obliterate carbon. Probably not viable for a hobbyist, but a professional like yourself can probably justify it.
Okay, I realize that this video is over a year old (I just found your channel). Question: Is it safe to use reverse strokes with a bronze bore brush?? I have always just used a forward stroke (and it takes a LOT of them to clean a barrel). I had it in my head that reverse strokes can damage the bore, but I can't remember if I read that or just dreamed it up in my head. I have a couple of barrels I need to clean and would like to know before I clean them.
nothing beats CLR
See the pic of the bolt that got left in clr over on accurate shooter?
J&B easily defeats clr no contest
@@planeiron241 J&B is an abrasive paste that also removes steel ... apples and oranges
@@drolds7246 See Erik Cortina videos, he uses it routinely, it does not harm stainless
@@mickroberts5166 it doesn't remove steel.
CLR
Wd-40 is like duck tape it can fix
One brush per cleaning🤣
I just use Windex.
I wouldn't use any of that stuff eventually you won't have any lands it's a corrosive
turn the bass down on your mic
Keith -
Use this product with a Parker Hale jag and you’ll be amazed how easily all the carbon is completely gone with very little effort.
shop.kgcoatings.com/kg/product/kg-2-bore-polish/