Just came across this vid and I completely agree with Millsbritish4x4. I am aerospace technician (for ~20 years) and have seen my fair share of training videos. You do a fantastic job. Thank you!
Great video it’s fixed my bad shifting 🎉 Only problem I have now is a air lock in the coolant, the coolant doesn’t seem to be leaving the tank under the fual tank 😢
I just want to say a thousand thanks for this video. I finally finished replacing my broken shifter return spring. Without your video, I would have hesitated to attempt the job. You saved me quite a bit of money and headache. If you ever in Madison, WI, I'll buy you all the beverage you want! Our local Ducati shop won't even work on 4V Ducati @@
Great video! I've had my shifter stuck and 'fixed' twice by the dealer too. This is on my to-do list for the winter. Thanks for the great instructions!
Thank you so much for this short comprehensive video. A few years ago I started servicing my bikes, every year I dive a little deeper into the services required to keep my bike in order. My 1098 had a sprang clutch so I currently have the LH cover off and I am going to update the spring for the shifter while I am here! I have subscribed and plan to enjoy your other videos!
You're welcome, Aaron. I'm gonna try to start publishing more videos soon, covering my 848 and a new Ducati V2 Bayliss that I just purchased. Welcome to the channel!
+kingfondler1 That's good to hear! This bike's mechanism got jammed up twice and 'fixed' at the dealer. The third time I decided to repair it myself, as depicted in this video, and haven't had any problems since. I also added a Factory Pro Shift Kit (over on the clutch side), which is another really good upgrade to firm up the shifting on these Ducatis. There's a video here on my channel that covers that upgrade, as well.
Oh snap! Here we go again :-) Last year your vid helped me when the gear selector got misaligned. I was lucky I did not have to remove the thread... Now I am back again, as it seems the spring is gone. I can only shift between two gears and the gear shifter got somewhat lighter. Like there is no resistance. Imagine the irony: I praised my Streetfighter for riding and shifting really smoothly just two days ago. The positive thing is now I know what's going on and I can fix it. Will need that thread locker, and the big torque wrench though... Thanks again :)
Thank you very much for the quality, detailed video. I also very much appreciate the tools and materials list. Keep up the good work and keep the shiny side up! :)
This video has been a massive help. I went down at NYST a few weeks ago and the bike landed on the left side. The shifter was very hard to move. When i pulled the cover off i found the spring on the shift linkage was actually broken in two!
@@Track848 16/17. I ran up the curbing and it just unsettled the bike. I was off in the grass before I knew it. I'm hoping to get this bike done soon and if my shoulder is feeling better I want to do one more day at Nelson before the season is over!
Excellent video, one that should be a model for other RUclips how-to publishers. This exact problem has befallen my 848 (track only), and this video would be my guide if I were to make the repair in my own garage.
I'm in the middle of this repair. Waiting for the spring to arrive. Did you install a new fly wheel nut? I am reading it is only good for one use. Great video. Hoping it goes back together as easily as it came apart.
wow thank you so much. PRECISELY what I needed. Ordering parts and tools now, hopefully I can do this myself. The nearest dealer is about 500 miles away, and wasn't planning any road trips in a rental truck.
Excellent--this is one of the main reasons I like to publish these maintenance videos; Glad you found it helpful! Feel free to come back if you have any questions...
So far so good, at the 40% mark (cover removed). Looks like the shift fork is literally pinned beneath (left/under) the gear pin. Crazy! Waiting on mothership italy to deliver my service pack. Your video has been absolutely instrumental, and I really gotta give ya kudos :)
Snapped the m6 screw TWICE due to overtorque. That 15-17 nm is dangerous, 15 is absolutely max. Other than that job is done. Still gettting false neutral in 4-5 range, 4th down to 3rd sometimes requires a second shift. But that is no change from prior to this job. I need that factory pro kit next. Thank you for the video, I must've watched this 30 times now.
is it normal for the shift to be partial during test phase(still case off)? Sometimes it'll get in-between the full completed shift, and when I rotate the wheel, the pin wheel "pops" into place. The shift-fork isn't always fully completing the shift. Perhaps it needs oil, been a week with the case off, it's really dry. Or perhaps this is a bad sign? If you look very closely @the wheel @5:05 you can see it happen on your own 5 to 6 shift. Mine does that around 20-30% of the time in all gears. Fork get's half of the shift "push" in, and then wheel has to recover the rest
Thanks for this very helpful video. It’s easyer to remove the 30mm Nut when the metal Heated up to 200 degrees Celsius (392 degrees Fahrenheit) what makes the LOCTITE SOFT.
+Bobby noneya Your 848 is a 2008, correct? I believe instead of the plate included in the kit (installed under the two bolts in this video), you will find two individual washers instead. I'd be curious to hear what you find in there.
Thanks very much for this video and your other one on the removal of the side case where you had the bearing issue. Are there any rules/tips for applying the liquid gasket - i.e. the exact route taken around the profile, which holes to loop around and which to ignore?
+John McCartan I typically follow the service and repair manual; some times it will have a diagram showing where to apply the liquid gasket, and other times (as in the case here with the alternator side cover), it might instruct you to apply the liquid gasket 'to all mating surfaces,' on a particular part. I would advise you to envision what the part/assembly will look like once it's completely back together; by doing this you can logically see where oil or fluid might escape if it's not sealed properly.
Great video/instruction... ALL PRO! I have a question regarding the flywheel nut. The shop manual for my 2000 ST4 states "once removed, the Flywheel Fixing Nut should never be reused". I just bought one when I replaced the stater due to said nut loosening up. Do I have to cough up more $$$ now that I have to get to the shifter spring? It weren't a cheap nut.
Ryan, I believe there were some faulty flywheel nuts on some 1999 and 2000 model year Ducati motorcycles. I'm not sure if you have to keep replacing them on those model years, (I have never replaced my 09' 848's nut), but go check out this forum post: www.ducati.org/forums/916-996-998-748/45642-flywheel-clutch.html
Thanks for this great video. My SF got stuck on gear 3 a few times over the past two weeks, but it returned to functional state somehow. Yesterday, when downgearing, it felt like sthing broke inside when shifting down to 2 and that was it. The shift mechanism or the spring probably fell apart, as it sounds like it is now touching the flywheel cog when I started the engine or when I pushed the bike. I hope nothing got damaged inside.
I had the same problem with mine, Martin (mechanism touching the primary gear). You will likely find some grinding witness marks when you pull it apart. Go check out this video that I made in connection with a separate issue: ruclips.net/video/gOVrfxHVSC8/видео.html; at the 5 min mark I show some pics of the damage that I incurred. This damage has not been an issue at all for me.... Unless you really ground it down bad, you're probably just fine. I recommend cleaning out the pick-up screen like I did in the linked video. Come back and let us know what you find!
@@Track848 it seems like I am going to do this fix myself. Apparently, I may save more time than money. The known mechanics are super busy. All I need is the puller and the flywheel holder. Everything else is at hand. Well, somehow accessible. Wish me luck an one more ride before winter :)
HI again. I got lucky, afgter all. The springs were OK and all I had to do is reset the shifting mechanism to its proper place. I did not need to remove ther flywheel. It was grinded on the side of the joint a bit, but seemed fine. After a short test ride, I can clearly feel that shifting is much smoother now than it was before. No leaks so far either. The biggest challenge was that there is no plug to remove the alternator cover from the bike, unless removing the entire cabling that ends I do not know where. Thank you again for your great video. You saved my day indeed. If you wish, I can share some of the photos with you. Be well!
@Martin Vedej That's excellent news, glad to hear you're back up-and-runnin. It sounds like some one hard-wired your stator to the regulator-rectifier if there is no plug. That's the only downfall of having it hard-wired, but it does eliminate that 'hot spot.' Any way, congrats on your fix!
For clarity: When replacing the spring, the rounded clip end goes on top, and the squared clip end goes on the bottom? It's a little hard to tell in the video. My bikes spring had completely broken when the shifter locked up so I do not have the original piece to use as a guide.
this video was very helpful, i would not have attempted this repair without seeing this. unfortunately i still have the problem. Upshifts are perfect, downshifts from 6th to 4th are not working properly. i even used the special tool to align the fork. I think the fork isn't completing its full range from top gear. The shift lever bottoms out and i have to tap it up to complete the downshift. I even replace the heavier spring and the stop plate. Any suggestions??
You might want to try installing a Factory Pro Shift Kit; I used to get false neutrals quite often until I installed the kit. It really firmed-up the shifting on my 09' 848. Here's a video that I made that shows how to install the kit: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html
Yea mine is stuck in 6th gear ⚙️ I can like lift the lever up but the lever won’t go down shift and I try moving the wheel but just move the engine. Any help lol
Thanks for the video. Hopefully I can get by with just the adjustment. What boggles my mind is they made this motor for 20 years before coming out with a fix? The bulletin says 'All 2V/4V motors', and my 1999 M750 at 35k mi definitely has the problem. Was SVC-09-009 the first acknowledgement that this was a problem?
I'm not sure if SVC-09-009 was the first time this issue was formally addressed by Ducati, but it appears to have been a longstanding problem. FYI: My final fix (after this video was published), included safety wiring the two bolts that hold the shift mechanism in place. I safety-wired them to each other... Good luck!
Great video, thanks so much. I have completed it as per your steps for 2007 1098 but keep get false neutral at 5th gear every-time, its like the selector doesn’t have enough range to select 5th. It takes several attempts to get it to finally select 5th. Any ideas?
Awesome content once again! Though mine is not locked, I want to check (and re-adjust if necessary), just to be sure. OP, would you say the upgrade kit makes a big difference?
What year is your bike? I believe Ducati began upgrading the mechanism at the factory starting with model year 2010 and onward. If you're in there looking around take note of the two bolts that hold the mechanism to the case; if there is a single plate for both bolts instead of two individual washers, you already have the upgrade kit. I probably would not upgrade if I weren't having problems, unless you want to spend the $51.04 for the kit (from Ducati Omaha) and you like to 'tinker' and are very proactive when it comes to preventative maintenance.
Mine is an 09 and no it has not given me any issues (knock on wood). Thanks for the info and tip man, I really appreciate it! I've been contemplating on getting these: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/ohlins-fork-piston-kit-ducati-848-07-11/ I have to admit, messing around inside the forks intimidate me a bit. Again, love the content! Keep me (/us posted) on future projects and such.
Great video! I'm trying to attempt it myself on my wife's 1098. But, I'm stuck. I purchased the shifter spring upgrade kit, easily put the new spring on the linkage, but the upper fork part of the linkage doesn't seem to want to go behind the shifter drum/wheel. I can gently force it into the correct position, but when I test it, and try to change gears, the upper part of the shift fork pops out from behind the shifter drum/wheel. Also, the moment I very gently snug the two bolts which holds the whole shift mechanism in place, the entire shift linkage gets very very tight, and will not move freely. She low sided the bike on the left side, and during impact with the ground, the gear shift foot lever got pushed too far, and that somehow broke the shifter spring. The linkage doesn't look bent or damaged, but one of the gears had some grinding, probably from the jammed shifter lever, and will need to be replaced. Any thoughts? I'm guessing I'm trying to put it together the wrong way. I was careful to get the spring orientation correct. I tried changing it around, since you made a comment about possibly getting it wrong, but any other way doesn't fit right, so I'm fairly confident the spring is on there correctly.
It's hard to say without seeing it, and hopefully there is no damage inside on the actual gearbox. On a couple of my original 'jams', the joint where the shift mechanism is held together with the C-clip, would make contact with the primary gear on the crankshaft if I tried to push it into 1st gear. It made a horrible metal on metal grinding noise, and I obviously backed off when I heard this. I wonder if the main insert on the shift mechanism (the one that goes into the crankcase), got bent, or perhaps the upper fork? Can you post a video on your channel?
I suspect you're correct about the main insert being bent, or both that, and the fork are bent. Because when I tighten the two bolts that secure the linkage, everything gets too tight, and there are marks on my case right where the shift mechanism is held together with the C-Clip, and that same knuckle also showed marks where it was grinding into the primary gear. Ya, I suppose that gear needs replacement also. I just found and bought a used 848 entire shift linkage on ebay. Looks to be exactly the same as my wife's 1098...except hopefully not as tweaked.
I put the new linkage in, everything seems to be good..., but. When I was going through the gears and moving the rear tire back and forth to help me along, I didn't have the Primary gear on the shaft. It's on there now, but do you think I could've accidentally gotten things out of sequence when that gear wasn't on there and I was moving everything? I'm concerned all that might be connected to the timing of the pistons and valves, I don't know how any of that magic works.
If you're talking about the large gear directly behind/next to the stator/generator magnet, no, you should be good... not sure if you've buttoned back-up yet, if not you might want to consider safety-wiring the two shift mechanism bolts together. In the end, that's what I did (not in this video), and it seems to be the best, surefire way to keep the mechanism from jamming up again (in my opinion).
first off, big fan, seen your knowledge around the forums...just wondering if you saw the service bulletin and used the torque specs that it recommended for the M8 and M6 screws for the stopper plate or used the torque specs from the manual? I know the specs from my manual on my 696 are 25 and 10 nm compared to the 34 and 15 nm stated on the bulletin...
Thank you! Yes I went with the bulletin's torque numbers; however, I believe my bolts were over-tightened by a previous mechanic as it kept loosening, even after I installed the upgrade kit. In the end, I torqued to the bulletin's specs and safety wired the two bolts together... I've had zero problems since doing this.
Track848 thanks for the info, I'm a new Duc owner (09 monster 696) with zero wrench time, but kinda handy and this video will definitely help me, I've had my shifter sticking a couple times, and I'm thinking this is the culprit! I'm going to have to look up how safety wire those bolts, any suggestions?
Hey, So I finally got around to changing the pieces. Had a broken return spring and thrust washer that was wedged between shaft and gear behind the flywheel. Thanks for all the info you’ve put out there!! Next is that factory pro shift kit!
Heat it up... it's probably got red threadlocker on it... if that doesn't work try some PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil... let it soak over night...
@@Track848 Threadlocker behind where the nut sits? I got a good amount of that off when I got the nut off with my impact wrench. I heated it up yesterday but it still wouldn't budge, and I didn't want to get too hot on a crankshaft... I found a gear puller that should help as well at least
Got it off. Wound up using a gear puller from Amazon... If you're having the same problems I am, you'll need one with at least a 6" bite! It's good to have my bike back.
Thanks for this video! My 848's shifter is currently stuck right now. I will try this as soon as i get the upgrade parts and tools. Do you have part numbers / links to the puller and the flywheel tool?
+Dominique Santos What year is your 848? If it's a 2010 or newer, you may not need the shift mechanism upgrade kit. It could just be jammed up. When you get inside look to see if the two bolts holding the mechanism on has individual washers or a plate like the one in this video. If it's a plate, the upgrade kit has already been installed. For the alternator cover puller the HDESA part # is: HD 002; it will cost around $20-25 USD. The Ducati Flywheel holder tool is much more expensive: Approx. $155; the part # is 887133367 and you can order it from your local dealer, or Ducati of Omaha. There are some alternatives to using this tool that you can research online. Come back and let me know if you need any additional info. Good Luck!
+Track848 My year is 2008 848... according to the bulletin it was developed in 09 so I should do the upgrade kit right? Wow that tool is pretty expensive! but its always nice to have the right tool so i'll be ordering it. Thanks for all the info!
+Dominique Santos Yes, you are correct: You should install the kit on a 2008 848, IF it hasn't already been installed by a previous owner (if there is one). The Ducati part # for the entire kit is: 69924492A; it prices at $48.21 over at ducatiomaha.com
Hey there, I know it's been a while since you posted this, but I'm going through some old paper work and found the invoice for the thrust washer: Part #85610751A; I ordered it over the phone from Ducati Indianapolis. Did you get yours sorted?
Coby, sorry about that last reply... I got confused with another one of my videos... I purchased my shift upgrade kit from my local Ducati dealer. If there is not one close to you, Ducati Omaha is a good online dealer that you can use.
Great video! I have a Testastretta engine and I have changed both of the springs on the gear selector. The gearing works fine until I put the engine case on and tighten the bolts. When I then try to put the bike in gear the shift lever jams and does not spring back? Any suggestions, ( I don't have any oil in the engine )
@@Track848 Hi, thanks for the gick answer. After many hours of headache I realized that the Electric starter driven gear wasn't inline with the other cogs so the flywheel alternator was to far out.
Very well made video. My M796 bike runs perfectly, yet recently went from occasionally going into false neutral to being completely unable to switch gears or stay in a gear. It will idle fine in neutral, yet I have the Ducabike see-through clutch cover, and the clutch pack doesn't spin. I can see the pressure plate moving in and out, as I squeeze the clutch lever, so I know that is working, but the clutch pack doesn't spin. If I try to put it into gear, the lever feels all loose and crappy. Sometimes there is a click like it went into a gear, but if I release the clutch the bike might only move a little before going into false neutral, or I can release the clutch and nothing will happen like it is in false neutral. Today I opened my cover and sure enough there was a broken spring, except it wasn't the spring from this "upgrade kit" (what is being upgraded because the parts look identical in this video?). It was the larger spring around the lower shaft that connects to the shifter. I guess what I am wondering is whether my problem is that this spring broke and fixing it will fix everything, or if the spring broke because of another problem and if I fix the spring, the spring will break again because of a different problem?
Good question, Sejhan; I do not have a video on this topic, however, check out the forum post linked below. It has a lot of good information including a link to Bulletin SRV-TTB-16-003 (see post #16), which describes step-by-step the gear learning procedure for the 1199. Good luck! ducatiforum.com/mechanical-technical/25479-changing-out-gear-position-sensor-1199-a.html
Hi,i just had a broken spring on mts1200. My question is: In the ducati upgrade kit for the mechanism they offer 1 spring(which has the old part number). However if you go to order the spring separately,there is a new number replacing the old one(which is included in the kit). Do you think there will be a problem if i dont use the one from the kit,but rather the one which is bought separately?
Hi Cvac, that's a good question. You might want to ask your local dealer. I would assume the spring offered is the upgraded one... what year is your mts?
I recently replaced the gear shift return spring as shown in this video on my 97 Monster 750. With the stator cover still open I test the shift mechanism and the bike goes through all the gears no problem. Once I put the bike back together the bike again shifts one gear and is jammed again. I reopen the stator cover and again goes through all the gears no problem. Is there something I am doing wrong to put the arm in a bind? I'm just confused it works without the stator cover but jams when reinstalled.
Coby, sorry to hear that you're experiencing a problem... If your shift arm is adjusted correctly and everything went back together okay you should be good. Has this bike ever been down on that side? If so, could the shift arm be slightly bent? If not, I wonder if you could be experiencing an issue with the shift detent arm on the other side of the engine? Here's a video that I made that shows my detent arm upgrade: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html I hope this helps. If that's not an issue, it might be a good idea to try posting a thread over at one of the Ducati forums. Good luck!
Hi Kyle -- I bought the HDESA Alternator Cover Puller Tool from Ebay... There are links to many of the items that I used during this project in the description of this video. Thanks for viewing!
Joseph, to do this job the oil and coolant has to be drained... Once everything is back together, you have to refill the motorcycle with oil and coolant (i.e. anti-freeze, water wetter, etc)... If you do not know how do do these two routine maintenance items on your bike, I would suggest getting some help from a buddy that knows how to do this or have a local shop do this job for you. If you want to learn, there are some pretty good videos on line... what is the year/make and model of your bike?
@@Track848 oh no I know how to do an oil change. But I've never removed this cover before. So once I replace the oil. It will go back into the chamber where the stator and other components are?
@@josephneal9824 Yes, that is correct; just drain the oil and coolant before removing the alternator side cover, then when you are finished with the shift mechanism repair, add the fluids back like you normally would during an oil change or coolant flush. The oil will find it's way back to this area, and the coolant will fill up all of the necessary crevices too...
Hey buddy, good video. I found my way here because i have a 1999 Ducati 750 supersport and every now and then it won't engage into gear properly, usually at high revs. I also get an audible pop, sounds like a quite backfire but doesn't sound like its coming from the exhaust, any ideas greatly appreciated, cheers
Have you tried bleeding the clutch? Another possibility is the gear stop lever (a.k.a. 'detent arm') over on the clutch side of the bike; I ended up installing a Factory Pro Shift Kit a few years ago on my 848 and it really helped the shifting (I was experiencing a lot of false neutrals). Here's a link to that video: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html. Good Luck!
Thanks I'll take a look, new to Ducati's so might take me a while, don't suppose you have any idea on the exhaust pop sound, I might be wrong but sounds like it's coming from the airbox, although I am wearing a lid so difficult to tell
Not sure about the pop sound... you might find an answer over at one of the ducati forums... I did a quick search and found a thread at ducati. ms that talked about fuel octane, potential ecu mapping and/or TPS adjustment. Too much to go into here, but it might be a good place to see what other 750 owners have experienced. It sounds like a common issue with your bike.
Hi, I was performing an oil change on my '15 SF 848 this morning and I believe the clutch return spring has broken. I was reinstalling the oil drain plug/crush washer and I noticed a thin metal piece poking out of the drain. I then pulled it out with my fingers and sure enough, it looked like part of a spring with a clean break/failure point. I don't know how long this has been floating in my case, but my question is will I need all these special tools to try and get access to this spring? It looks like I at least need that tool to remove the case. I looked at an 848 service manual and I'm confident that this is the part that's broken. Part no. 79912961A Thank you for the vid, and it was very detailed.
It is best to use the special tools that I used when making this video. You can damage the bearing if you try to use something else (i.e. a steering wheel puller) when removing the alternator-side cover. For the flywheel, if you have an impact wrench you can remove the nut without the special tool (do not use an impact wrench to re-install the flywheel nut). If you do not have an impact wrench, you will need a long breaker bar. You can do some research and find alternative ways to remove and re-install the flywheel nut. One of the popular ways is to use a penny between the starter idler gear and the gear on the flywheel. I once read that this could potentially cause damage so I opt not to use this method, but a lot of people report success. I suggest researching this more if you decide to try it. Motion Pro has an inexpensive 'Rotor and Sprocket Holder' but I'm not sure if that would work on your bike; you could call them and find out... please come back and let us know what you end up doing!
Wow.....I had the same exacting thing happened to me this fall when I was changing the oil to get it ready for winter storage. The bike ran fine without any problem(I bought it few weeks before I saw the problem). My shifter wasn't stuck, and it return to position after shifting...weird.
My 848 evo is having trouble shifting into 3rd when pulling the clutch, however, it seems to work better when i am using the quick shifter. Will this upgrade eliminate this problem?
What year is your evo? The bulletin for this repair kit was published in May of 2009, I believe (or hope) Ducati would have upgraded this at the factory by the time they started producing the Evo for their 2011 model year releases (and subsequent years, too). Do you have fresh clutch fluid that has been bled well? If not that would be the first thing I would check. The Factory Pro Shift Kit really firmed-up my 848's shifting when I installed it a few years ago, and might be an option for you as well; here's the link to my installation video: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html
@@Track848 its a 2012 ducati 948 evo corse se. I changed the clutch slave to an aftermarket (i believe oberon was the brand) and i also flushed the fluid, however i have also noticed that the fluid is getting pretty dark. It has been less than 500 miles since i have changed the fluid. Thanks for the response
It's pretty easy if you have the tools and like to do your own work. If you have to invest in the special tools you will have them for future projects so it's a good investment. If you do not want to take it on for whatever reason, then yes, it would be best to take it in to the dealer... good luck!
HAVE YOU EVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH TAKING OFF IN FIRST GEAR ON 08 1098, AND THIS REALLY WIERD SOUND ON TAKE OFF, BUT ONLY IN FIRST GEAR, ONCE YOU MOVE THE NOISE GOES WAY AND ALL OTHER GEARS ARE FINE.
You could do this job without removing it, but to be thorough, it's a good idea to pull if off so that you can inspect the washer and roller cage assembly/bearing....
Hi jd, yes it should come off with a good impact, but when you put it back together you'll need a way to keep the flywheel from turning (DO NOT use the impact to re-assemble). You might be able to use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while you torque it to spec. There are a couple of other ways as well that you can find more info on at one of the Ducati forums (penny in the gear, etc., etc.). Good luck!
Ok cool thanks also I noticed when I was taking it apart I had happened to pull the clutch lever and was very hard I can’t even squeeze it any idea what could be going on
@@jdmtake1 If you accidentally pulled the clutch when it was disconnected it'll be fine when you put it back together. You might have to bleed and add some new clutch (brake) fluid.
+imperiumdx I would say a good mechanic with the proper tools who knows his way around this bike well should be able to complete this project in 1.5 to 2 hours.
BE WARNED --ignore the torque settings for the selector plate and the crankshaft nut. 34nm-38 is far too high for the 6mm bolt and will strip the threads . Likewise the 15nm for the 5mm one, and 330nm for the crankshaft nut. 10nm for the 5mm & 6mm is sufficient.
After having several mis-alignments, I started wondering if this could have been the reason why my problem kept occurring. I concluded that some one at the shop where I used to have this serviced could have over-tightened the bolts. Last year (after this video was posted), I decided to safety wire the two bolts together, and there's no way they can work loose now...
@@Track848 Hello, I own a monster evo1100 and the measurments are correct, same both sides, but the mark is not aligned to the pin, any idea how to solve this ? Thanks!!
So much work on such small part. Stupid Ducati. Mine broke as I found out when I was changing oil. Weirdly the shifter is still working fine and returning to the center.
oh okay cool. I thought there was a way to get away with not draining the oil. This happened on my 1198, I unlocked it, adjusted it, and put it back together, then it happened again soon after. Looks like I'll replace the fork with the updated factory one soon. Thanks!
I have heard of people doing this track side without draining the oil; you would have to lean the bike over (rest it on some track side tires, for example), so that the oil will not spill out once you remove the cover. You would still have to drain the coolant. My final fix, which I did after this video, was to safety-wire the two bolts securing the mechanism to the case. I've had zero problems since doing that...
There are other ways to remove it, but I've never tried them. You can probably search some of the ducati forums to find those methods... be careful though, I understand a couple of those methods can cause damage.
+Alexander Ramsawak In this video I used Valvoline DuraBlend for the small dabs to help hold the thrust washer in place; I use the same for the clutch slave and clutch push rod O-rings. I use Permatex dielectric for the harness connector. I have links in the description, but need to check out why the Durablend is no longer showing up. On other projects, I also use Lucas Oil Red-n-tacky #2 and Lucas Oil Marine grease, depending on the application.
No, there are other ways to do it (using a penny, making your own tool, etc); some people believe the penny trick could potententially cause damage... you can research these options more on one of the Ducati forums.
@@Track848 Thanks for the reply, I did get a impact tool today which should make it possible to loosen it up without the tool. My impact tool tightens up to 300nm, I think the minimum is 318 NM, so I have to research if that does any harm or just use my hand to tighten it up a little bit more!
@@alphadesmo2592 Do not use the impact tool to tighten... tighten by hand using a torque wrench. You could cause some major damage tightening with the impact.
@@Track848 For anyone reading this, I did use the impact tool, knowing that it can only tighten up to maximum 320 NM. YES using this video is the best method, however I really had no choice because of some circumstances. Driven 900+ km already, everything is still okay. Thank you for the demonstration. I did ask a motorcycle garage before doing it though.
As technical trainer for Caterpillar, my professional opinion is that these vids are some of the best, engaging content and well edited... great work
Wow! Thank you for that positive feedback!
Just came across this vid and I completely agree with Millsbritish4x4. I am aerospace technician (for ~20 years) and have seen my fair share of training videos. You do a fantastic job. Thank you!
Great video it’s fixed my bad shifting 🎉
Only problem I have now is a air lock in the coolant, the coolant doesn’t seem to be leaving the tank under the fual tank 😢
Dam thanks anyways!! wish I had seen this before I break my entire engine down thinking it was a the transmission issue 😒😒😒😒😒😒
Keep up the good work
Thanks!
Very detailed, step-by-step video on how to fix your Ducati shift mechanism...
Thanks, managed to fix my st4 whit this vid after gear get stuck on 3rd
Un placer ver trabajar de la forma que tú lo haces ,muy limpio y bien explicado
I just want to say a thousand thanks for this video. I finally finished replacing my broken shifter return spring. Without your video, I would have hesitated to attempt the job. You saved me quite a bit of money and headache. If you ever in Madison, WI, I'll buy you all the beverage you want! Our local Ducati shop won't even work on 4V Ducati @@
You're welcome Topper! I'm glad this video was helpful!
Great video! I've had my shifter stuck and 'fixed' twice by the dealer too. This is on my to-do list for the winter. Thanks for the great instructions!
+Doug Burkholder Your welcome! Come back and let us know if you need any help when you get to this project.
Man are you patient! No wonder the mechanics earn money. Thanks for the relaxing detailed videos! Awesome!
+cadyspen You're welcome! thanks for viewing!
thanks for this awesome video i love it, no drawn out talks, or shakey video, and your very knowlegable.
You're welcome, sir!
Thank you so much for this short comprehensive video. A few years ago I started servicing my bikes, every year I dive a little deeper into the services required to keep my bike in order. My 1098 had a sprang clutch so I currently have the LH cover off and I am going to update the spring for the shifter while I am here!
I have subscribed and plan to enjoy your other videos!
You're welcome, Aaron. I'm gonna try to start publishing more videos soon, covering my 848 and a new Ducati V2 Bayliss that I just purchased. Welcome to the channel!
Good on ya for making this vid! I recently struggled through this on my Duc, and she has never shifted better!
+kingfondler1 That's good to hear! This bike's mechanism got jammed up twice and 'fixed' at the dealer. The third time I decided to repair it myself, as depicted in this video, and haven't had any problems since. I also added a Factory Pro Shift Kit (over on the clutch side), which is another really good upgrade to firm up the shifting on these Ducatis. There's a video here on my channel that covers that upgrade, as well.
Oh snap! Here we go again :-)
Last year your vid helped me when the gear selector got misaligned. I was lucky I did not have to remove the thread...
Now I am back again, as it seems the spring is gone. I can only shift between two gears and the gear shifter got somewhat lighter. Like there is no resistance.
Imagine the irony: I praised my Streetfighter for riding and shifting really smoothly just two days ago. The positive thing is now I know what's going on and I can fix it. Will need that thread locker, and the big torque wrench though... Thanks again :)
Good luck with the repair!
Thank you for this video! It helped me fix my jammed shift mechanism! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent--glad it was helpful!
Now this is how to record an instructional video! Thanks, please keep up the good work.
Thank you, liquid rider!
Thank you very much for the quality, detailed video. I also very much appreciate the tools and materials list. Keep up the good work and keep the shiny side up! :)
Also, great video. It was exactly what I was looking for thank you!
Absolutely fantastic video my friend. I’m about to do exactly this. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Clear, concise and complete ! Perfect, thank you.
You're welcome!
thanks for the video, I did this repair on a monster 696. very helpful :) TY!!
You're Welcome!
Nice vid, the threaded rod is a good idea too
Thanks for the Vid, very easy to follow. I fixed the problem with ease and saved me $$$. Thanks
You're welcome, Anthony! Glad it worked out for you...
This video has been a massive help. I went down at NYST a few weeks ago and the bike landed on the left side. The shifter was very hard to move. When i pulled the cover off i found the spring on the shift linkage was actually broken in two!
Excellent, Brian, I'm glad this video helped and that you're okay! NYST is one of my favorite tracks. Where did you go down?
@@Track848 16/17. I ran up the curbing and it just unsettled the bike. I was off in the grass before I knew it. I'm hoping to get this bike done soon and if my shoulder is feeling better I want to do one more day at Nelson before the season is over!
Excellent video, one that should be a model for other RUclips how-to publishers. This exact problem has befallen my 848 (track only), and this video would be my guide if I were to make the repair in my own garage.
+Phil Dixon Thank you! Glad you like it. If you decide to do the repair yourself and have any questions, feel free to post them up here... Good luck!
Some nice pointers and well presented video. Thanks
You're welcome, John; thanks for the comment!
thank you, great video, I fixed my gear stuck issue.
That's Great Hung! Glad you got it fixed...
I had actually just done this repair/adjustment on a Ducati 996 and it's always interesting how many similarities there are.
Yeah, I get the same feeling when I look through all of the parts fiches over at Ducati Omaha...a lot of similarities...
Thanks for another informative video
charlie ryan You're Welcome!
Very interesting. Thanks for a clear video.
You are Welcome!
Thank you! Very very good video!
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
Great Video!
Thanks Tim!
Nicely done.
Fantastic video.
+Don Walker Thanks Don!
I'm in the middle of this repair. Waiting for the spring to arrive. Did you install a new fly wheel nut? I am reading it is only good for one use. Great video. Hoping it goes back together as easily as it came apart.
wow thank you so much. PRECISELY what I needed. Ordering parts and tools now, hopefully I can do this myself. The nearest dealer is about 500 miles away, and wasn't planning any road trips in a rental truck.
Excellent--this is one of the main reasons I like to publish these maintenance videos; Glad you found it helpful! Feel free to come back if you have any questions...
So far so good, at the 40% mark (cover removed). Looks like the shift fork is literally pinned beneath (left/under) the gear pin. Crazy!
Waiting on mothership italy to deliver my service pack. Your video has been absolutely instrumental, and I really gotta give ya kudos :)
Snapped the m6 screw TWICE due to overtorque. That 15-17 nm is dangerous, 15 is absolutely max. Other than that job is done. Still gettting false neutral in 4-5 range, 4th down to 3rd sometimes requires a second shift. But that is no change from prior to this job. I need that factory pro kit next.
Thank you for the video, I must've watched this 30 times now.
is it normal for the shift to be partial during test phase(still case off)? Sometimes it'll get in-between the full completed shift, and when I rotate the wheel, the pin wheel "pops" into place. The shift-fork isn't always fully completing the shift. Perhaps it needs oil, been a week with the case off, it's really dry. Or perhaps this is a bad sign?
If you look very closely @the wheel @5:05 you can see it happen on your own 5 to 6 shift. Mine does that around 20-30% of the time in all gears. Fork get's half of the shift "push" in, and then wheel has to recover the rest
Job done. Thanks for the vid!
Great video what Miles is the 848 engine good for before it needs a rebuild
Thanks for this very helpful video. It’s easyer to remove the 30mm Nut when the metal Heated up to 200 degrees Celsius (392 degrees Fahrenheit) what makes the LOCTITE SOFT.
Thank you for being the first person that actually mentions the nut size. 2 videos about this fix and they completely ignore this info.
great help with this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff!
+Paweł Kaczyna Thanks! This was a fun video to put together!
Very nice video... thank you
You are very welcome, Alberto! I hope it was helpful!
veeeeery helpfull! thanks!
You're welcome, Kostas, and I'm glad you found this video helpful!
Great video! Messaged you on Instagram with a specific question. Thanks!
another fine job on the Vid thax for vid and kit number
+Bobby noneya You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions if you decide to install the upgrade.
Upgrade parts already installed . thanx
Spring is not upgraded...same part # as original
+kingfondler1 think its all been done gonna open case and check few things
+Bobby noneya Your 848 is a 2008, correct? I believe instead of the plate included in the kit (installed under the two bolts in this video), you will find two individual washers instead. I'd be curious to hear what you find in there.
Thanks very much for this video and your other one on the removal of the side case where you had the bearing issue.
Are there any rules/tips for applying the liquid gasket - i.e. the exact route taken around the profile, which holes to loop around and which to ignore?
+John McCartan I typically follow the service and repair manual; some times it will have a diagram showing where to apply the liquid gasket, and other times (as in the case here with the alternator side cover), it might instruct you to apply the liquid gasket 'to all mating surfaces,' on a particular part. I would advise you to envision what the part/assembly will look like once it's completely back together; by doing this you can logically see where oil or fluid might escape if it's not sealed properly.
Very helpful, thanks!
Great video/instruction... ALL PRO!
I have a question regarding the flywheel nut. The shop manual for my 2000 ST4 states "once removed, the Flywheel Fixing Nut should never be reused". I just bought one when I replaced the stater due to said nut loosening up. Do I have to cough up more $$$ now that I have to get to the shifter spring? It weren't a cheap nut.
Ryan, I believe there were some faulty flywheel nuts on some 1999 and 2000 model year Ducati motorcycles. I'm not sure if you have to keep replacing them on those model years, (I have never replaced my 09' 848's nut), but go check out this forum post: www.ducati.org/forums/916-996-998-748/45642-flywheel-clutch.html
do you have a step by step video on how to change the stator and rectifier?
with all tools/parts needed?
+allan cervantes Sorry, Allan, I do not--at this point. I haven't had the need to change these items...
Thanks for this great video. My SF got stuck on gear 3 a few times over the past two weeks, but it returned to functional state somehow. Yesterday, when downgearing, it felt like sthing broke inside when shifting down to 2 and that was it. The shift mechanism or the spring probably fell apart, as it sounds like it is now touching the flywheel cog when I started the engine or when I pushed the bike. I hope nothing got damaged inside.
I had the same problem with mine, Martin (mechanism touching the primary gear). You will likely find some grinding witness marks when you pull it apart. Go check out this video that I made in connection with a separate issue: ruclips.net/video/gOVrfxHVSC8/видео.html; at the 5 min mark I show some pics of the damage that I incurred. This damage has not been an issue at all for me.... Unless you really ground it down bad, you're probably just fine. I recommend cleaning out the pick-up screen like I did in the linked video. Come back and let us know what you find!
@@Track848 it seems like I am going to do this fix myself. Apparently, I may save more time than money. The known mechanics are super busy. All I need is the puller and the flywheel holder. Everything else is at hand. Well, somehow accessible. Wish me luck an one more ride before winter :)
HI again. I got lucky, afgter all. The springs were OK and all I had to do is reset the shifting mechanism to its proper place. I did not need to remove ther flywheel. It was grinded on the side of the joint a bit, but seemed fine. After a short test ride, I can clearly feel that shifting is much smoother now than it was before. No leaks so far either. The biggest challenge was that there is no plug to remove the alternator cover from the bike, unless removing the entire cabling that ends I do not know where.
Thank you again for your great video. You saved my day indeed. If you wish, I can share some of the photos with you. Be well!
@Martin Vedej That's excellent news, glad to hear you're back up-and-runnin. It sounds like some one hard-wired your stator to the regulator-rectifier if there is no plug. That's the only downfall of having it hard-wired, but it does eliminate that 'hot spot.' Any way, congrats on your fix!
... And yes, I would like to see the pics... you can send them to me via pm at my instagram account at: instagram.com/track848
Thanks track 848, my Hypermotard 821 got stuck on 4th gear. Luckily I only had to stop at only one stoplight from the freeway to make it home.
You're welcome, Jerry! I hope you get up-and-running again soon!
For clarity: When replacing the spring, the rounded clip end goes on top, and the squared clip end goes on the bottom? It's a little hard to tell in the video. My bikes spring had completely broken when the shifter locked up so I do not have the original piece to use as a guide.
this video was very helpful, i would not have attempted this repair without seeing this. unfortunately i still have the problem. Upshifts are perfect, downshifts from 6th to 4th are not working properly. i even used the special tool to align the fork. I think the fork isn't completing its full range from top gear. The shift lever bottoms out and i have to tap it up to complete the downshift. I even replace the heavier spring and the stop plate. Any suggestions??
You might want to try installing a Factory Pro Shift Kit; I used to get false neutrals quite often until I installed the kit. It really firmed-up the shifting on my 09' 848. Here's a video that I made that shows how to install the kit: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html
Yea mine is stuck in 6th gear ⚙️ I can like lift the lever up but the lever won’t go down shift and I try moving the wheel but just move the engine. Any help lol
Thanks for the video. Hopefully I can get by with just the adjustment. What boggles my mind is they made this motor for 20 years before coming out with a fix? The bulletin says 'All 2V/4V motors', and my 1999 M750 at 35k mi definitely has the problem. Was SVC-09-009 the first acknowledgement that this was a problem?
I'm not sure if SVC-09-009 was the first time this issue was formally addressed by Ducati, but it appears to have been a longstanding problem. FYI: My final fix (after this video was published), included safety wiring the two bolts that hold the shift mechanism in place. I safety-wired them to each other... Good luck!
Without the tool or do I need that specialty tool
Hi! Which one's the upgrade 69924491A or 69924492A ? Thanks (I'm guessing it's the second one!)
Great video, thanks so much. I have completed it as per your steps for 2007 1098 but keep get false neutral at 5th gear every-time, its like the selector doesn’t have enough range to select 5th. It takes several attempts to get it to finally select 5th. Any ideas?
This fixed my false neutrals: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html. Good luck, come back and let us know if it works for you...
@@Track848 thanks, ill give it a try. Thank god for your video, I have watched 20 times 😂
Great video!! Where did you get the update kit from?
Thank you. It's been several years but I either got the update kit from my local Ducati dealer or online from Ducati of Omaha...
Awesome content once again! Though mine is not locked, I want to check (and re-adjust if necessary), just to be sure.
OP, would you say the upgrade kit makes a big difference?
What year is your bike? I believe Ducati began upgrading the mechanism at the factory starting with model year 2010 and onward. If you're in there looking around take note of the two bolts that hold the mechanism to the case; if there is a single plate for both bolts instead of two individual washers, you already have the upgrade kit. I probably would not upgrade if I weren't having problems, unless you want to spend the $51.04 for the kit (from Ducati Omaha) and you like to 'tinker' and are very proactive when it comes to preventative maintenance.
Mine is an 09 and no it has not given me any issues (knock on wood). Thanks for the info and tip man, I really appreciate it! I've been contemplating on getting these:
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/ohlins-fork-piston-kit-ducati-848-07-11/
I have to admit, messing around inside the forks intimidate me a bit. Again, love the content! Keep me (/us posted) on future projects and such.
Great video! I'm trying to attempt it myself on my wife's 1098. But, I'm stuck. I purchased the shifter spring upgrade kit, easily put the new spring on the linkage, but the upper fork part of the linkage doesn't seem to want to go behind the shifter drum/wheel. I can gently force it into the correct position, but when I test it, and try to change gears, the upper part of the shift fork pops out from behind the shifter drum/wheel. Also, the moment I very gently snug the two bolts which holds the whole shift mechanism in place, the entire shift linkage gets very very tight, and will not move freely.
She low sided the bike on the left side, and during impact with the ground, the gear shift foot lever got pushed too far, and that somehow broke the shifter spring. The linkage doesn't look bent or damaged, but one of the gears had some grinding, probably from the jammed shifter lever, and will need to be replaced. Any thoughts? I'm guessing I'm trying to put it together the wrong way. I was careful to get the spring orientation correct. I tried changing it around, since you made a comment about possibly getting it wrong, but any other way doesn't fit right, so I'm fairly confident the spring is on there correctly.
It's hard to say without seeing it, and hopefully there is no damage inside on the actual gearbox. On a couple of my original 'jams', the joint where the shift mechanism is held together with the C-clip, would make contact with the primary gear on the crankshaft if I tried to push it into 1st gear. It made a horrible metal on metal grinding noise, and I obviously backed off when I heard this. I wonder if the main insert on the shift mechanism (the one that goes into the crankcase), got bent, or perhaps the upper fork? Can you post a video on your channel?
I suspect you're correct about the main insert being bent, or both that, and the fork are bent. Because when I tighten the two bolts that secure the linkage, everything gets too tight, and there are marks on my case right where the shift mechanism is held together with the C-Clip, and that same knuckle also showed marks where it was grinding into the primary gear. Ya, I suppose that gear needs replacement also.
I just found and bought a used 848 entire shift linkage on ebay. Looks to be exactly the same as my wife's 1098...except hopefully not as tweaked.
I put the new linkage in, everything seems to be good..., but. When I was going through the gears and moving the rear tire back and forth to help me along, I didn't have the Primary gear on the shaft. It's on there now, but do you think I could've accidentally gotten things out of sequence when that gear wasn't on there and I was moving everything? I'm concerned all that might be connected to the timing of the pistons and valves, I don't know how any of that magic works.
If you're talking about the large gear directly behind/next to the stator/generator magnet, no, you should be good... not sure if you've buttoned back-up yet, if not you might want to consider safety-wiring the two shift mechanism bolts together. In the end, that's what I did (not in this video), and it seems to be the best, surefire way to keep the mechanism from jamming up again (in my opinion).
first off, big fan, seen your knowledge around the forums...just wondering if you saw the service bulletin and used the torque specs that it recommended for the M8 and M6 screws for the stopper plate or used the torque specs from the manual? I know the specs from my manual on my 696 are 25 and 10 nm compared to the 34 and 15 nm stated on
the bulletin...
Thank you! Yes I went with the bulletin's torque numbers; however, I believe my bolts were over-tightened by a previous mechanic as it kept loosening, even after I installed the upgrade kit. In the end, I torqued to the bulletin's specs and safety wired the two bolts together... I've had zero problems since doing this.
Track848 thanks for the info, I'm a new Duc owner (09 monster 696) with zero wrench time, but kinda handy and this video will definitely help me, I've had my shifter sticking a couple times, and I'm thinking this is the culprit! I'm going to have to look up how safety wire those bolts, any suggestions?
Hey, So I finally got around to changing the pieces. Had a broken return spring and thrust washer that was wedged between shaft and gear behind the flywheel. Thanks for all the info you’ve put out there!! Next is that factory pro shift kit!
Is this appliable for Ducati Monster 796?
Great video! Though my flywheel is stuck on, even after I used the special tool + remove the nut / washer. It doesn't even budge. Any ideas?
Heat it up... it's probably got red threadlocker on it... if that doesn't work try some PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil... let it soak over night...
@@Track848 Threadlocker behind where the nut sits? I got a good amount of that off when I got the nut off with my impact wrench. I heated it up yesterday but it still wouldn't budge, and I didn't want to get too hot on a crankshaft... I found a gear puller that should help as well at least
Got it off. Wound up using a gear puller from Amazon... If you're having the same problems I am, you'll need one with at least a 6" bite! It's good to have my bike back.
The clutch master cylinder has 3 screws with a hex bolt. How do you remove when they’re stripped?😢 They were in movable, and are now stripped. Help?
Great Video. Did you get the Flywheel holding tool directly from Ducati or did you find a cheaper alternative? Thanks
Ah. Never mind. I see in an other comment that you when through a local dealer. That is a pricey tool.
@@jackconway596 Yes, through local dealer, and yes pricey!
Thanks for this video! My 848's shifter is currently stuck right now. I will try this as soon as i get the upgrade parts and tools.
Do you have part numbers / links to the puller and the flywheel tool?
+Dominique Santos What year is your 848? If it's a 2010 or newer, you may not need the shift mechanism upgrade kit. It could just be jammed up. When you get inside look to see if the two bolts holding the mechanism on has individual washers or a plate like the one in this video. If it's a plate, the upgrade kit has already been installed. For the alternator cover puller the HDESA part # is: HD 002; it will cost around $20-25 USD. The Ducati Flywheel holder tool is much more expensive: Approx. $155; the part # is 887133367 and you can order it from your local dealer, or Ducati of Omaha. There are some alternatives to using this tool that you can research online. Come back and let me know if you need any additional info. Good Luck!
+Track848 My year is 2008 848... according to the bulletin it was developed in 09 so I should do the upgrade kit right? Wow that tool is pretty expensive! but its always nice to have the right tool so i'll be ordering it. Thanks for all the info!
+Dominique Santos Yes, you are correct: You should install the kit on a 2008 848, IF it hasn't already been installed by a previous owner (if there is one). The Ducati part # for the entire kit is: 69924492A; it prices at $48.21 over at ducatiomaha.com
+Track848 Hi Track848, I'm getting ready to do this job by the end of the month. Do you happen to remember the size of the flywheel nut?
+Dominique Santos The flywheel nut on mine is 30 mm...
Can you share the part# of the thrust washer. Mine was out of alignment and got severely deformed by the gears.
Hey there, I know it's been a while since you posted this, but I'm going through some old paper work and found the invoice for the thrust washer: Part #85610751A; I ordered it over the phone from Ducati Indianapolis. Did you get yours sorted?
Did you use a brass brush for cleaning the gasket material off the cover and case?
I believe it was brass, (my tools are currently in storage or I would check); just make sure the one you use is soft bristle and you'll be good to go!
Can you please tell me where you purchased the upgraded spring? I'm currently experiencing this issue with my Ducati Monster 750
Coby, sorry about that last reply... I got confused with another one of my videos... I purchased my shift upgrade kit from my local Ducati dealer. If there is not one close to you, Ducati Omaha is a good online dealer that you can use.
Great video! I have a Testastretta engine and I have changed both of the springs on the gear selector. The gearing works fine until I put the engine case on and tighten the bolts. When I then try to put the bike in gear the shift lever jams and does not spring back? Any suggestions, ( I don't have any oil in the engine )
It's hard to say without seeing it in person... the gear shaft that sticks out of the case isn't binding up some how, is it?
@@Track848 Hi, thanks for the gick answer. After many hours of headache I realized that the Electric starter driven gear wasn't inline with the other cogs so the flywheel alternator was to far out.
@@MrSbozic Great! Glad it was simple!
Did the flywheel holding tool come with the kit you ordered? Or was it ordered separately? Having trouble finding one
Zayne, it was a separate purchase and I went through a local dealer to buy it...
Very well made video.
My M796 bike runs perfectly, yet recently went from occasionally going into false neutral to being completely unable to switch gears or stay in a gear. It will idle fine in neutral, yet I have the Ducabike see-through clutch cover, and the clutch pack doesn't spin. I can see the pressure plate moving in and out, as I squeeze the clutch lever, so I know that is working, but the clutch pack doesn't spin. If I try to put it into gear, the lever feels all loose and crappy. Sometimes there is a click like it went into a gear, but if I release the clutch the bike might only move a little before going into false neutral, or I can release the clutch and nothing will happen like it is in false neutral.
Today I opened my cover and sure enough there was a broken spring, except it wasn't the spring from this "upgrade kit" (what is being upgraded because the parts look identical in this video?). It was the larger spring around the lower shaft that connects to the shifter. I guess what I am wondering is whether my problem is that this spring broke and fixing it will fix everything, or if the spring broke because of another problem and if I fix the spring, the spring will break again because of a different problem?
photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mXSbr3j/0/XL/i-mXSbr3j-XL.jpg
This picture shows the spring that broke for me. It is the bottom left spring.
Also, what size socket is needed for the flywheel nut? I have read that it is a 30mm. Can you confirm?
@@jirace Yes, mine is 30mm
Hello
Do you have Video on a Panigale 1199 to change the gear sensor? Do i have to learn the bike the gearing when i changed the sensor?
Good question, Sejhan; I do not have a video on this topic, however, check out the forum post linked below. It has a lot of good information including a link to Bulletin SRV-TTB-16-003 (see post #16), which describes step-by-step the gear learning procedure for the 1199. Good luck! ducatiforum.com/mechanical-technical/25479-changing-out-gear-position-sensor-1199-a.html
Hi,i just had a broken spring on mts1200.
My question is: In the ducati upgrade kit for the mechanism they offer 1 spring(which has the old part number).
However if you go to order the spring separately,there is a new number replacing the old one(which is included in the kit). Do you think there will be a problem if i dont use the one from the kit,but rather the one which is bought separately?
Hi Cvac, that's a good question. You might want to ask your local dealer. I would assume the spring offered is the upgraded one... what year is your mts?
I recently replaced the gear shift return spring as shown in this video on my 97 Monster 750. With the stator cover still open I test the shift mechanism and the bike goes through all the gears no problem. Once I put the bike back together the bike again shifts one gear and is jammed again. I reopen the stator cover and again goes through all the gears no problem. Is there something I am doing wrong to put the arm in a bind? I'm just confused it works without the stator cover but jams when reinstalled.
Coby, sorry to hear that you're experiencing a problem... If your shift arm is adjusted correctly and everything went back together okay you should be good. Has this bike ever been down on that side? If so, could the shift arm be slightly bent? If not, I wonder if you could be experiencing an issue with the shift detent arm on the other side of the engine? Here's a video that I made that shows my detent arm upgrade: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html I hope this helps. If that's not an issue, it might be a good idea to try posting a thread over at one of the Ducati forums. Good luck!
Can i use normal lithium wheel bearing grease to hold that washer in place?
Yes, and it is very small dabs, just enough to keep the washer in its place as everything goes back together...
Will this work on my 2006 749 currently stuck in 3rd?Clutch works shifter doesn’t budge. Had to ride home in 3rd🤦🏼♂️
Yes, Kevin, the kit was designed for all 2V and 4V Ducatis when it came out back in 2009.
where did you get those special tools to pull the crank case off ?
Hi Kyle -- I bought the HDESA Alternator Cover Puller Tool from Ebay... There are links to many of the items that I used during this project in the description of this video. Thanks for viewing!
Hello, you mentioned adding coolant and oil once it was put back together. But I don't understand how to re add the coolant and oil?
Joseph, to do this job the oil and coolant has to be drained... Once everything is back together, you have to refill the motorcycle with oil and coolant (i.e. anti-freeze, water wetter, etc)... If you do not know how do do these two routine maintenance items on your bike, I would suggest getting some help from a buddy that knows how to do this or have a local shop do this job for you. If you want to learn, there are some pretty good videos on line... what is the year/make and model of your bike?
@@Track848 oh no I know how to do an oil change. But I've never removed this cover before. So once I replace the oil. It will go back into the chamber where the stator and other components are?
@@josephneal9824 Yes, that is correct; just drain the oil and coolant before removing the alternator side cover, then when you are finished with the shift mechanism repair, add the fluids back like you normally would during an oil change or coolant flush. The oil will find it's way back to this area, and the coolant will fill up all of the necessary crevices too...
👍
Hey buddy, good video. I found my way here because i have a 1999 Ducati 750 supersport and every now and then it won't engage into gear properly, usually at high revs. I also get an audible pop, sounds like a quite backfire but doesn't sound like its coming from the exhaust, any ideas greatly appreciated, cheers
Have you tried bleeding the clutch? Another possibility is the gear stop lever (a.k.a. 'detent arm') over on the clutch side of the bike; I ended up installing a Factory Pro Shift Kit a few years ago on my 848 and it really helped the shifting (I was experiencing a lot of false neutrals). Here's a link to that video: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html. Good Luck!
Thanks I'll take a look, new to Ducati's so might take me a while, don't suppose you have any idea on the exhaust pop sound, I might be wrong but sounds like it's coming from the airbox, although I am wearing a lid so difficult to tell
Not sure about the pop sound... you might find an answer over at one of the ducati forums... I did a quick search and found a thread at ducati. ms that talked about fuel octane, potential ecu mapping and/or TPS adjustment. Too much to go into here, but it might be a good place to see what other 750 owners have experienced. It sounds like a common issue with your bike.
OK, many thanks for the help
Hi, I was performing an oil change on my '15 SF 848 this morning and I believe the clutch return spring has broken. I was reinstalling the oil drain plug/crush washer and I noticed a thin metal piece poking out of the drain. I then pulled it out with my fingers and sure enough, it looked like part of a spring with a clean break/failure point. I don't know how long this has been floating in my case, but my question is will I need all these special tools to try and get access to this spring? It looks like I at least need that tool to remove the case. I looked at an 848 service manual and I'm confident that this is the part that's broken. Part no. 79912961A Thank you for the vid, and it was very detailed.
It is best to use the special tools that I used when making this video. You can damage the bearing if you try to use something else (i.e. a steering wheel puller) when removing the alternator-side cover. For the flywheel, if you have an impact wrench you can remove the nut without the special tool (do not use an impact wrench to re-install the flywheel nut). If you do not have an impact wrench, you will need a long breaker bar. You can do some research and find alternative ways to remove and re-install the flywheel nut. One of the popular ways is to use a penny between the starter idler gear and the gear on the flywheel. I once read that this could potentially cause damage so I opt not to use this method, but a lot of people report success. I suggest researching this more if you decide to try it. Motion Pro has an inexpensive 'Rotor and Sprocket Holder' but I'm not sure if that would work on your bike; you could call them and find out... please come back and let us know what you end up doing!
Wow.....I had the same exacting thing happened to me this fall when I was changing the oil to get it ready for winter storage. The bike ran fine without any problem(I bought it few weeks before I saw the problem). My shifter wasn't stuck, and it return to position after shifting...weird.
My 848 evo is having trouble shifting into 3rd when pulling the clutch, however, it seems to work better when i am using the quick shifter. Will this upgrade eliminate this problem?
What year is your evo? The bulletin for this repair kit was published in May of 2009, I believe (or hope) Ducati would have upgraded this at the factory by the time they started producing the Evo for their 2011 model year releases (and subsequent years, too). Do you have fresh clutch fluid that has been bled well? If not that would be the first thing I would check. The Factory Pro Shift Kit really firmed-up my 848's shifting when I installed it a few years ago, and might be an option for you as well; here's the link to my installation video: ruclips.net/video/c3QXwB9UROA/видео.html
@@Track848 its a 2012 ducati 948 evo corse se. I changed the clutch slave to an aftermarket (i believe oberon was the brand) and i also flushed the fluid, however i have also noticed that the fluid is getting pretty dark. It has been less than 500 miles since i have changed the fluid. Thanks for the response
not sure if I want to do this or take it to the dealer, `08 hyper 1100s stuck in 2nd
It's pretty easy if you have the tools and like to do your own work. If you have to invest in the special tools you will have them for future projects so it's a good investment. If you do not want to take it on for whatever reason, then yes, it would be best to take it in to the dealer... good luck!
@@Track848 I need to fix it and sell it something happen every year this thing cost too much. switching back to a Japanese bike next
@@TheProCut17 Understood--probably doesn't make sense to buy any Ducati special tools then...
@@Track848 every spring it seem like I spend 2k on the bike. I love it when it's running right but can't keep throw money at it 👍
I can't find this ducati tool anywhere! Any ideas?
Thomas, I couldn't find it anywhere either, so I bit the bullet and got it from my local dealer.
HAVE YOU EVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH TAKING OFF IN FIRST GEAR ON 08 1098, AND THIS REALLY WIERD SOUND ON TAKE OFF, BUT ONLY IN FIRST GEAR, ONCE YOU MOVE THE NOISE GOES WAY AND ALL OTHER GEARS ARE FINE.
Why do you have to remove the thrust washer?
You could do this job without removing it, but to be thorough, it's a good idea to pull if off so that you can inspect the washer and roller cage assembly/bearing....
Hello, I had a hit on the gear lever and it has become hard, I can not engage any gear, I'm stuck, the problem is similar to the one you're repairing?
Yes, it sounds similar, what year and model is your motorcycle?
Track848 it's a Diavel , 2nd gen, a shift pedal was hit and then it get stuck anda i can't move it , I guess it's the shift mechsnism
Polin Ese I would agree that it's a stuck/jammed shift mechanism. I would drain the oil and coolant, pull the cover and have a look.
Track848 yeah, but i can't do it myself , took it to the dealer this week and pray that it be just that, thanks a Lot for answer me
Can I just use the impact to take the crankshaft both off?
Hi jd, yes it should come off with a good impact, but when you put it back together you'll need a way to keep the flywheel from turning (DO NOT use the impact to re-assemble). You might be able to use a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while you torque it to spec. There are a couple of other ways as well that you can find more info on at one of the Ducati forums (penny in the gear, etc., etc.). Good luck!
Ok cool thanks also I noticed when I was taking it apart I had happened to pull the clutch lever and was very hard I can’t even squeeze it any idea what could be going on
@@jdmtake1 If you accidentally pulled the clutch when it was disconnected it'll be fine when you put it back together. You might have to bleed and add some new clutch (brake) fluid.
Ok cool but I did notice when moving the gear selector it would still be in Neutral
How many hours labour would be fair to be charged for this?
+imperiumdx I would say a good mechanic with the proper tools who knows his way around this bike well should be able to complete this project in 1.5 to 2 hours.
Where to get the upgrade kit bro?
Go through your local Ducati dealer... if you don't have one close, you can order it through Ducati Omaha's website...
BE WARNED --ignore the torque settings for the selector plate and the crankshaft nut. 34nm-38 is far too high for the 6mm bolt and will strip the threads . Likewise the 15nm for the 5mm one, and 330nm for the crankshaft nut. 10nm for the 5mm & 6mm is sufficient.
After having several mis-alignments, I started wondering if this could have been the reason why my problem kept occurring. I concluded that some one at the shop where I used to have this serviced could have over-tightened the bolts. Last year (after this video was posted), I decided to safety wire the two bolts together, and there's no way they can work loose now...
@@Track848 Hello, I own a monster evo1100 and the measurments are correct, same both sides, but the mark is not aligned to the pin, any idea how to solve this ? Thanks!!
So much work on such small part. Stupid Ducati. Mine broke as I found out when I was changing oil. Weirdly the shifter is still working fine and returning to the center.
Glad you found this before getting stranded somewhere!
Is this really a two hour job ? If it’s your first time doing it.
Yes, probably, but maybe a little longer if you take your time and enjoy it...
Did you drain the oil to do this?
Stephen Villagrasa yes sir... oil and coolant.
oh okay cool. I thought there was a way to get away with not draining the oil. This happened on my 1198, I unlocked it, adjusted it, and put it back together, then it happened again soon after. Looks like I'll replace the fork with the updated factory one soon. Thanks!
I have heard of people doing this track side without draining the oil; you would have to lean the bike over (rest it on some track side tires, for example), so that the oil will not spill out once you remove the cover. You would still have to drain the coolant. My final fix, which I did after this video, was to safety-wire the two bolts securing the mechanism to the case. I've had zero problems since doing that...
do you realy need the flywheel holder ?
There are other ways to remove it, but I've never tried them. You can probably search some of the ducati forums to find those methods... be careful though, I understand a couple of those methods can cause damage.
What kind of grease do you use
+Alexander Ramsawak In this video I used Valvoline DuraBlend for the small dabs to help hold the thrust washer in place; I use the same for the clutch slave and clutch push rod O-rings. I use Permatex dielectric for the harness connector. I have links in the description, but need to check out why the Durablend is no longer showing up. On other projects, I also use Lucas Oil Red-n-tacky #2 and Lucas Oil Marine grease, depending on the application.
Ok thanks i have Lucas oil red-n-tacky but i didn't know you have to use a different grease for the slave and clutch push rod
Lucas oil should be fine for slave and push rod orings, too...
Do you really need a flywheel holder? It’s really expensive for just 1 clutch job, my spring is probably broken.
No, there are other ways to do it (using a penny, making your own tool, etc); some people believe the penny trick could potententially cause damage... you can research these options more on one of the Ducati forums.
@@Track848 Thanks for the reply, I did get a impact tool today which should make it possible to loosen it up without the tool.
My impact tool tightens up to 300nm, I think the minimum is 318 NM, so I have to research if that does any harm or just use my hand to tighten it up a little bit more!
@@alphadesmo2592 Do not use the impact tool to tighten... tighten by hand using a torque wrench. You could cause some major damage tightening with the impact.
@@Track848 For anyone reading this, I did use the impact tool, knowing that it can only tighten up to maximum 320 NM.
YES using this video is the best method, however I really had no choice because of some circumstances. Driven 900+ km already, everything is still okay.
Thank you for the demonstration. I did ask a motorcycle garage before doing it though.
this is enlightening I thought I would be splitting the case cross my fingers
No case splitting! I will cross my fingers for you, too...
The "boats" 😂👍🏻