I like that you are honest enough to show that things don’t always go smoothly even for pros. Reminds me of how my wife thinks something will be a one day fix and two weeks later I am still working on the repair.
We use green label joint compound. Once you get the initial repair done, whatever that is. Then you’ll have to do your best to texture the spackle to look like the existing texture. There’s lots of ways to do that, but I can’t give you any more specifics without seeing the texture you’re dealing with. It’s a bit of an art project. Keep in mind that if you don’t like the texture you created, then you can always sand it down and try again. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!!
Excellent job Jeremy,it was a task,but that was a good thing. I learn a lot. The oil based primer won't flash through after two coats of ceiling paint???
You are correct. The BIN primer won't flash through at all as long as you do a decent top coat. Thanks for watching my videos! I appreciate it and I'm glad you're finding them useful and hopefully somewhat entertaining 😁
You ever use 20 minute mud? Even use 5 minute mud once you get good with it. Will save you loads of time and it also doesnt leave the air bubbles, zero air bubbles. The premixed mud you used is amazing for new bare drywall, but you really need to use the dry mix mud if you're gonna be getting into repairs on painted surfaces. It's harder to sand but you just gotta leave a better finish, wider 10 inch and 12 inch knife will make it quicker too. And it ain't spackle it's drywall compound aka MUD, that's like calling OSB plywood, nice vids liking the content
Thanks for the comment good sir. I have used 20 minute and 5 minute quite a bit. On this day of filming I didn't have any in my truck, so I was using what I had. Originally the repair looked quite a bit smaller because the GC had already done some work to it. Thankfully it all turned out well! Thanks for watching!
Do you think those chunks in the paint are from the paint or the roller? My ceiling was done with promar ceiling white, then extreme block latex, and finally promar 200. Assuming it was maybe the latex primer or the roller. Or maybe the paint. To avoid that you have to strain? Never saw that on any ceiling before since mine & this video. The common denominator is the Promar ceiling white.
In my case it wasn't the roller cover. I can tell the difference between paint chunks and loose nap from a roller cover. The paint got a little chunky cause I let it sit in my truck too long with too many changes in weather. Most of the time we don't have an issue, but it happens for various reasons from time to time with all manner of paints.
We use to spray, especially for exterior work. We've moved away from spraying. It's just not the type of work we like doing, but I know plenty of guys that use sprayers for all kinds of jobs.
I was surprised to watch your rolling technique, that is back-and-forth, back-and-forth with the roller. I'm a firm believer that you role in one direction and pick the roller up at the end of the roll always. Rolling back-and-forth is not only does not spread paint efficiently, it also causes the nap of the roller to bounce back and forth and produces more splatters.
I’ll preface what I’m about to say with this: if it works for you then go for it and keep at it. That being said, in my 20 years in the field I’ve never seen any painter roll in the way that you’re describing. Splatter has more to do with how fast you’re rolling, the type of roller, and the product being applied. The paint spreading efficiently and evenly is determined by the pressure being applied to the roller. Again, if what you’re doing works for then keep on keeping on. Just be aware that the technique you described is unusual.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks for the reply. I agree that moving a roller too fast will splatter paint. However, moving a roller back-and-forth absolutely positively does not spread paint as effectively as rolling in one direction. It's simple physics really and I've been taught that by multiple painters for many years - it really is not unusual. At least not around here!. Try it next time I guarantee 100%. You'll find that it's more effective to roll in one direction. Also, painting in a W shape as opposed to a straight line with a roller is recommended. But you probably know that.
I like that you are honest enough to show that things don’t always go smoothly even for pros. Reminds me of how my wife thinks something will be a one day fix and two weeks later I am still working on the repair.
Hahaha, exactly. Sometimes the easy looking repairs can turn into a big pain in the @$$. Thanks again for watching!
Really enjoyed the video. As a homeowner, these are the annoying things that will inevitably get me, so thanks for recording the whole process.
I'm glad you liked the video. Hopefully if it happens to you, you'll only have to do it once! 😬
Thanks for all the details! Just found your channel 😊
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching 😁
Just real world stuff.... it happens, and thanks for sharing the details!
Thanks
Love your beard!😅 and thanks for the helpful video!
Thank you and you are most welcome!
Great video and the reality that comes with the work
I got it there in the end 🤙. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for all your struggles in this video. I learned from it though and I thank you.
I'm glad you learned from my struggles! It's all good. The repair turned out great and my client was quite pleased 😁. Thanks for watching!
Amazing👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos! So helpful 😊 what ceiling spackle were you using? Also my ceiling repair has swirl pattern. Any tips for this?
We use green label joint compound. Once you get the initial repair done, whatever that is. Then you’ll have to do your best to texture the spackle to look like the existing texture. There’s lots of ways to do that, but I can’t give you any more specifics without seeing the texture you’re dealing with. It’s a bit of an art project. Keep in mind that if you don’t like the texture you created, then you can always sand it down and try again. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!!
need to try chb for ceilings. so cheap and great stuff.
I’ll reach out to my sales rep and take a look
Excellent job Jeremy,it was a task,but that was a good thing. I learn a lot.
The oil based primer won't flash through after two coats of ceiling paint???
You are correct. The BIN primer won't flash through at all as long as you do a decent top coat.
Thanks for watching my videos! I appreciate it and I'm glad you're finding them useful and hopefully somewhat entertaining 😁
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks buddy, we respect your contents,always.
You ever use 20 minute mud? Even use 5 minute mud once you get good with it. Will save you loads of time and it also doesnt leave the air bubbles, zero air bubbles. The premixed mud you used is amazing for new bare drywall, but you really need to use the dry mix mud if you're gonna be getting into repairs on painted surfaces. It's harder to sand but you just gotta leave a better finish, wider 10 inch and 12 inch knife will make it quicker too. And it ain't spackle it's drywall compound aka MUD, that's like calling OSB plywood, nice vids liking the content
Thanks for the comment good sir. I have used 20 minute and 5 minute quite a bit. On this day of filming I didn't have any in my truck, so I was using what I had. Originally the repair looked quite a bit smaller because the GC had already done some work to it. Thankfully it all turned out well! Thanks for watching!
what kind of spackle did you use for the large areas?
Green label, all purpose joint compound.
Do you think those chunks in the paint are from the paint or the roller?
My ceiling was done with promar ceiling white, then extreme block latex, and finally promar 200. Assuming it was maybe the latex primer or the roller. Or maybe the paint. To avoid that you have to strain? Never saw that on any ceiling before since mine & this video.
The common denominator is the Promar ceiling white.
In my case it wasn't the roller cover. I can tell the difference between paint chunks and loose nap from a roller cover. The paint got a little chunky cause I let it sit in my truck too long with too many changes in weather. Most of the time we don't have an issue, but it happens for various reasons from time to time with all manner of paints.
Do you ever use a paint sprayer for larger projects?
We use to spray, especially for exterior work. We've moved away from spraying. It's just not the type of work we like doing, but I know plenty of guys that use sprayers for all kinds of jobs.
Hey, where are you located?
We're outside of Philadelphia, PA
@@SuperVassarBrothers rats !
I was surprised to watch your rolling technique, that is back-and-forth, back-and-forth with the roller. I'm a firm believer that you role in one direction and pick the roller up at the end of the roll always. Rolling back-and-forth is not only does not spread paint efficiently, it also causes the nap of the roller to bounce back and forth and produces more splatters.
I’ll preface what I’m about to say with this: if it works for you then go for it and keep at it. That being said, in my 20 years in the field I’ve never seen any painter roll in the way that you’re describing. Splatter has more to do with how fast you’re rolling, the type of roller, and the product being applied. The paint spreading efficiently and evenly is determined by the pressure being applied to the roller. Again, if what you’re doing works for then keep on keeping on. Just be aware that the technique you described is unusual.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks for the reply. I agree that moving a roller too fast will splatter paint. However, moving a roller back-and-forth absolutely positively does not spread paint as effectively as rolling in one direction. It's simple physics really and I've been taught that by multiple painters for many years - it really is not unusual. At least not around here!. Try it next time I guarantee 100%. You'll find that it's more effective to roll in one direction. Also, painting in a W shape as opposed to a straight line with a roller is recommended. But you probably know that.