I still use Ronin S and non-IS 24mm EF lens on 5DIV. The footage I get is in the 90% range that you mention, for 1 basic reason: the gimbal walk. I have practiced it to the point where people living in my street started just shrugging shoulders when they see me with the gimbal (oh, well, it's the local harmless lunatic). There is a simple test to check if you've mastered it - fill 2 glasses of water 0.5cm from the top, start doing the ninja walk on the pavement while carrying them, increase the speed to a level you normally do with the camera and there you go! The amount of spilled water will tell you how good you are. I know many people will dismiss this advice as they want to rely on the latest and greatest hype they've spent money on, but the truth is that if you master your own abilities, you will be less reliant on tech and will be amazed how many gimbal shots will be replaced by handheld movement. You will simply nail it every time. Great videos, don't stop and wish you all the best! 👊🏼
The other factor to consider is subject matter. When you film something like a person walking the viewer's eye goes to that and doesn't notice the bounces as much. With no moving objects in the frame it's much easier to see any bumps.
for my rs3 I have shaky sometimes in the corners of frame, looks like a roll motor issue.. very acceptable when shooting some people in frame, but absolutely annoying when shooting real estate. and sometimes gimbal can loose a horizon with no reason
I know this is an old video so not sure if you will read this but I agree that ibis and lens IS helps a lot but what helps even more is a dual handle setup for your gimbal and using underslung mode and the handles the same like the Ronin M , for some reason it is much more smooth and less jittery, even when you dont use the underslung mode it is perfect using the gimbal on top but with the handles
This video was super informative, other RUclipsrs just make a basic video "how to get super smooth videos with gimbal" and state the obvious tips and never go in-depth. Literally, nobody talks about the information you provided. I was struggling with my RS3, I thought I had some problem with my gimbal but this video made sooo much sense. This really helped me a lot! Thank you man ♥
The only problem I seem to have with my gimbal(RS3 Pro) is to get the gimbal pointing where I want it to be. I'm a newbie and I know this has plenty to do with use of gimbal, but it would be cool if we could basically lock all axes in a sense that they don't move like they do, and always stay in center, but provide stabilization. Idk, I just have this idea of gimbal offering the precision of handheld, but with stabilization of itself. I always feel like there is so much delay(lag or latency) in gimbal operation.
Hey man, I'm a Ronin 2 op, I also have the RS3 Pro as a mini gimbal setup and have the same issues, believe me, there is something up with this Gimbal, it's twitchy and that is not your operating. The ninja walk simply helps with the Y Axis up and down movemetns (walking), on the high end we have support vests for this. I have both the Ready Rig and ArmorMan 2.0. The Ronin 2 is the big boy, I've had Alexa Mini, Red DSMC 1 and 2 (Dragon/Helium), Ursa Mini Pro, Red Komodo etc and have never had the issues I am having with the RS3 Pro. I would delve a lot deeper on this issue
I have the rs3 pro and its driving me crazy! My shots aren’t as smooth as they were on the rsc2 and its taking me twice as long to get through a shoot because i keep needing to redo shots
hey I just got a RS3.. after selling my ronin M, Helix jr, Helix Pro and returning my RS2.. and found myself here realizing the footage from motorized gimbals to truly replace a Steadicam is NEVER GOING TO HAPPEN... and yet again going back to my very natural fluid non-motorized Steadicam :) Just saying incase some of you don't realize there was a solution before motorized gizmos.
Ain't using the IS in camera gives more shake than turning it off? Base on my experience it doesn't have help the stabilization but only jitters more when panning is introduced
Hey brother, are you using any side handles? They help A LOT! even just one side handle makes a huge difference versus just holding the gimbal in the center. Give it a shot! Smallrig makes some for under $100
Stabilizer on lens, body cam, gimbal and then you warp on post is over kill. If rs3 is that shaky in your hands then the old rsc is laughing. I guess its in your footing and body posture.
We use the RS2 and C70 and when we build our cam set up on the Tilta Ring, we notice a lot more shake on the camera even with our IS lenses and Supersmooth turned on. Compared to my Sony A7S3 with IBIS and a Stabilized lens, it's no comparison which is better: the Sony. I hate that Canon forces creators to compromise so many things with their cameras. IBIS or ND's. Full frame with big body or Super35 with the C70. MicroHDMI or Full HDMI. CLOG2 or stuck with RAW or CLOG3.
If you just buy a Zhiyun Crane 2S you won't have any of these issues. I'm sure I'll get some hate from people emotionally attached to DJI but it's true. DJI is far better with regards to tech, accessories, ad-ons, and such. Zhiyun has far less to offer in those departments but in terms of simplicity and giving you very stable footage; Zhiyun is way ahead. There's always differences between competitors and those are the differences between Zhiyun and DJI. Zhiyun's tech accessories and ad-ons are pretty much a total embarrassment but their gimbals are far smoother.
i don't think so mate, I've used the Crane 2S and i am currently using the RS 3 pro andf i can attest to the fact that the RS3 Pro is way smoother. It's actually a fact
@@dannyelfilms I own both of them and have used each of them extensively. The Crane 2S is definitely smoother without any question. That being said I actually hate it and I do not use it anymore. The RS3 pro is a much better gimbal for so many reasons but the footage off of the crane 2S is a level smoother than the RS3 Pro.
@@CTcoreytrevor so there is a trick I learned recently that may even give you smoother footage but it's will require you going into the app to dial in the settings more and that is the deadband settings. You need to set it to high for every axis in the preferred user profile. And it has been a game changer for me.
I know that having a control ring helps, it helped me smooth out footage and moves, it was less balancing with my arms in a weird position in front of me, to a more relaxed and natural position on either side of the camera. For me the ring setup was well worth it.
If you are looking to eliminate the Z axis issue, I would suggest adding a vest and arm to your gimbal setup. Best Boy Adam has a great tutorial on this, building your own Arri Trinity. It’s the best option I’ve found, don’t hold yourself back with entry level glass!
I'm just a freelancer who needs occasional gimbal shots, so I rather not invest more than the price of the gimbal in bulky accessories. However, it might make sense to rent for specific shoots. I'd be interested to try it out!
Woo made the feature! Hypersmooth for the win! So pleased you made this test. Seriously underrated YT channel. The Canon RF 24-70L IS lens is supposed to be good for video work on a gimbal. I'm yet to try it but would love to see which high quality IS lenses you choose to test next. Nice work!
I’m also having issues with my rs3. I’m flying my Komodo and can’t seem to get the rs3 pro to be smooth. I’m located in Rhode Island not far from boston
Thanks dude. As you're so specific to the point of talking about smoothness in terms of %s and what methods give more smoothness %, and going for so much accuracy in how stable your shots are then it seems you may be 'the man' that I need to watch for help in increasing my gimbal non-bumpiness (though I'm just using the RS3, not RS3 pro, not sure how much of a difference there is). Wouldn't have thought I'd need a Warp Stabilisation for a Gimbal but though it seems to be the way at least you and your friend has shown me that I should do this. Thanks for your meticulous work and advice here with my new toy. Also I subscribed not because you want the 10k but based on your articulate help already.
Could you also elaborate a little more on strength settings under advanced along with stiffness please! I'm on bmpcc g2 and it's a bloody chore to balance everytime. They decided to design this thing left heavy, so I usually strap a npf battery with tape on right hand end of the gimbal arm. Should probably get proper counter weights. Still is a big challenge. Thank you!
The problem by using the supersmooth. The gimbal starts producing abnormal sound. The sound is very little but it can be heard. That sound is disturbing me. My setup is DJI RS 3, sony a7iv with the sony fe 20mm f1. 8 and the falcam f22 L bracket. Plus the rode wireless mic on top.
Hello great video, do you have a video stabilizing the c70 with the ronin? I’m going crazy with that process. Saw milion videos and can’t make it with that straight up stabe
I've heard contradicting things about camera IBIS when using a gimbal. Some people say camera IBIS interferes with the gimbal's stabilization while others say it helps.
FYI: My Crane 3S with the Blackmagic URSA 12K + 50wh vmount + Ninja V+ with 4400 mah NPF battery + an EF 24 F2.8 STM or EF 40 F2.8 STM lens is ultra smooth (no shake, no jitter). It's so smooth, I don't need to use post stabilization. Neither the lens nor my camera body has any form of stabilization.
Hi . I have Canon C70 with 15-35 2.8 IS and ronin 3 Pro. I've just watched your video but I'm not sure to have understood. Which is the best solution for using Ronin walking around during a wedding? C70 digital IS off, Zoom IS on and supersmooth?
5:00 not really, I am a newb, and even for me I just hold a camera inclined in front direction, which easily takes care of all Z bounce for me. I am an engineer though, so such physics is easy for me lol. One downside with such holding method is that you need stronger arms and you will get tired faster, but Z will be compensated. I also must admit I have a recent camera with IBIS and all lenses are with OIS, so maybe I have never experienced the problem to an extent you did. Very possible. My Ronin footage is crazy smooth every time though, and I never tried SuperSmooth at all. When I say crazy smooth, Imean smoother than the best one at 5:40 that you showed. I have a smaller lighter camera and a smaller lens also.
Good Video. I subscribed simply because of how you asked Buddy, LOL. It was genuine and actually comical hahahaha. Your goal to get to 20,000 subs was a very funny line! Keep at it man, Good Channel! :-)
That’s strange I heard lots of people saying turn ibis off when on a gimbal as I noticed more weird jitters with ibis on. Was using Nikon z6ii. They say the ibis is fighting against the gimbal stabilization causing unusual jitters. I might experiment again
Have you seen those guys who made the movie running around while testing the rs3 in the forest and the footage looked super smooth with no post editing software my mind was blown! I’m like how the hell!!!???
THANK YOU! had to do a little digging finding dead band settings. How would I change settings to or operate to catch quick action? For example how I used to throw my barebones xt4 with just a lens from point a to point b to catch some action reacting to sound real quick?
One thing to review is style of IS in the lens. Not all RF and EF lenses have the same type of IS. For example, I found the 24-105 v3 EF lens with the hybrid IS from the 100mm Macro, was. a big jump in video IS vs the 24-105 vII. Sure that lens if F4,, but the hybrid IS was a noticeable difference. Since the hybrid IS has more sensors, it was a a clear winner vs the older IS. I also found, that fine tuning the balance was a major factor, with my C70, as the motors are swinging a lot of weight, since it's not only taller than a mirrorless camera I am also usually using heavier glass. Being even slightly off the balance can really impact the motor judder.
Oh - one more question: My pan keeps being slightly off - even after lots of autotuning. Is there a setting other than the (temporary) push mode to get tn right into the middle? Cheers!!
Your videos are very entertaining however at the end of the video I still don’t know what’s the main take away point you are trying to come across. You throw a bunch of good ideas but at the end I feel like “ sooo what is he going to use now ??” Or like “ what is his recommendation now ? “ Great video anyways . Just my thoughts
I advise you to use a ring installation. The low efficiency of dead zone compensation was observed by me on all RS series gimbals. For more information, see here - ruclips.net/video/1x2vUxnHmko/видео.html
Thanks for letting me know I'm not the only one suffering with shaky footage. I'm using a heavy Nikon D850 with a heavy 14-24mm lens, and it's been a lot of trial and error. I've had some great results, and some straight up awful ones. I'm trying to work on consistency. Great video.
Great Video! Also a proud Rs-3 pro owner (works great with the Komodo!!) and your recommended deadband setting really helped my panning inconsistencies. One question: Do you still use the lens strap in super smooth with the lens support mounted? Thank you and keep on posting great stuff like this :)))
Hi Eric. Nice comparison and advice. You mentioned in the video that you returned the 35mm lens to invest in something more high-end with IS. Do you already know which glass will you buy? I really love the 35mm view, but as we all know we are all still waiting for L version of this RF lens...
I’ve looked casually and I’m surprised there isn’t an active Z-axis solution. The z-axis helpers that I’ve seen are just spring loaded and not actually sensing the ups and downs.
Anyone using the IS with the SR3 gimbal on the c70? I am trying the 16-35mm with and without camera IS and can't tell a difference .I am just a bit concerned that turning on the IS will create a jitter.
I was under the impression turn on IS or IBIS in camera when on a gimbal would be fighting against it thus giving weird types of jittery footage. I tried it on a Z6ii and noticed it so I always keep it off now
DJI said to make the motor stronger by making the number lower manually? I've always put the number higher and got a worse result. Definitely going to try that I am in the same situation and I'm at the point where I absolutely hate my RSC2
I only just got the RS3 Pro, but when mounting my two main lenses, that lens support thingy ends up smack in the middle of the focus ring. And it seems there's only that one place to mount it? It makes using a focus motor impossible...Does anyone know of a solution to this?
I think the dual hand grips in under slung mode with a easy rig stabil light will be best option for the most stable footage. Also with the easy rig you will have no fatigue in your arms if shooting long events
I watched both your videos about this but my experience has been quite the opposite when using a super wide 14mm lens. Maybe it is camera related as I am using a Nikon Z9 and Nikon 14-24mm, I was getting bounce issues, no matter how hard I tried to walk smoothly. Then I turned IBIS off and the problem was fixed when using my RS 3 Pro. Peter Makholm advises the same ruclips.net/video/iesGKoEj2ns/видео.html
Thanks for the tip. For what it's worth, even though I'm using different equipment and camera to you I may just give turning off IS a go and see what happens with my RS3.
Just got an rs3 pro last weekend and I guess the extended plate only comes with the combo pack. I see small rig makes an extended plate. I'll try that one. So glad I watch you video again and noticed that. I have a c100 and c200 and was going crazy trying to make it work. Thanks for getting back.
i have 4 year experience using gimbal from any brands like moza and zhiyun for my many jobs, the new line dji gimbal after the Ronis S and Sc first gen suck miserably, i have the rsc2 and and try out the rs2 and maxed out all the setting to as good as possibel but i get nothing, so ironic that moza and zhiyun more smoother than overpriced dji gimbal. btw this is a discussion guys, correct me if i am wrong but that my opinion and my experience
I have never supported a lens on a gimble. Is it pretty easy? That would help balancing and keeping it set the way you began with, without any of the adjustments lossening over time
I stopped using it, cause I use battery grip which lifts the lens way about the height of the lens stabilizer. And since I have no plans of buying a longer one, I simply make without it. Just increase the motors just a little to compensate.
I've switched to using my R6 on my RS2 lately. Paired with my old 24mm 2.8 IS EF & IBIS it really helps eliminate that Z axis movement. Great vid as always mate!
![BEST RONIN GIMBAL SETTINGS FOR SMOOTH FOOTAGE! [DJI RS3 PRO, RS3 & RS2 ]](/img/1.gif)
I still use Ronin S and non-IS 24mm EF lens on 5DIV. The footage I get is in the 90% range that you mention, for 1 basic reason: the gimbal walk. I have practiced it to the point where people living in my street started just shrugging shoulders when they see me with the gimbal (oh, well, it's the local harmless lunatic). There is a simple test to check if you've mastered it - fill 2 glasses of water 0.5cm from the top, start doing the ninja walk on the pavement while carrying them, increase the speed to a level you normally do with the camera and there you go! The amount of spilled water will tell you how good you are. I know many people will dismiss this advice as they want to rely on the latest and greatest hype they've spent money on, but the truth is that if you master your own abilities, you will be less reliant on tech and will be amazed how many gimbal shots will be replaced by handheld movement. You will simply nail it every time.
Great videos, don't stop and wish you all the best! 👊🏼
Be water my friend. Thanks for that training exercise tip.
You should try tofu delivery
ninja walk will break your back
@@narrativasavulsas Your comment shows that you haven't seen what my channel is about 🤣
Yeah I'm regretting upgrading to the RS3 right now... Ronin S footage is soo much smoother out of camera.
My dude, I was using ronin sc until yesterday and it didn't shake like that. Just got the rs 3 pro and it's the smoothest gimbal out of the box ever.
With my 5 years of experience using gimbals, move as fast as possible. Then you will reduce the up and down movement a lot. Trust me
Yes, it seems completely counter intuitive, but running is better than walking
The other factor to consider is subject matter. When you film something like a person walking the viewer's eye goes to that and doesn't notice the bounces as much. With no moving objects in the frame it's much easier to see any bumps.
Very true!
for my rs3 I have shaky sometimes in the corners of frame, looks like a roll motor issue.. very acceptable when shooting some people in frame, but absolutely annoying when shooting real estate. and sometimes gimbal can loose a horizon with no reason
To fix that Z access bounce you need an Easyrig STABIL Light.
I know this is an old video so not sure if you will read this but I agree that ibis and lens IS helps a lot but what helps even more is a dual handle setup for your gimbal and using underslung mode and the handles the same like the Ronin M , for some reason it is much more smooth and less jittery, even when you dont use the underslung mode it is perfect using the gimbal on top but with the handles
This video was super informative, other RUclipsrs just make a basic video "how to get super smooth videos with gimbal" and state the obvious tips and never go in-depth. Literally, nobody talks about the information you provided. I was struggling with my RS3, I thought I had some problem with my gimbal but this video made sooo much sense. This really helped me a lot! Thank you man ♥
The only problem I seem to have with my gimbal(RS3 Pro) is to get the gimbal pointing where I want it to be. I'm a newbie and I know this has plenty to do with use of gimbal, but it would be cool if we could basically lock all axes in a sense that they don't move like they do, and always stay in center, but provide stabilization. Idk, I just have this idea of gimbal offering the precision of handheld, but with stabilization of itself. I always feel like there is so much delay(lag or latency) in gimbal operation.
@@astanisystemsbad technique
Hey man, I'm a Ronin 2 op, I also have the RS3 Pro as a mini gimbal setup and have the same issues, believe me, there is something up with this Gimbal, it's twitchy and that is not your operating. The ninja walk simply helps with the Y Axis up and down movemetns (walking), on the high end we have support vests for this. I have both the Ready Rig and ArmorMan 2.0. The Ronin 2 is the big boy, I've had Alexa Mini, Red DSMC 1 and 2 (Dragon/Helium), Ursa Mini Pro, Red Komodo etc and have never had the issues I am having with the RS3 Pro. I would delve a lot deeper on this issue
Have you used the mini?
I have the rs3 pro and its driving me crazy! My shots aren’t as smooth as they were on the rsc2 and its taking me twice as long to get through a shoot because i keep needing to redo shots
Grab a glidecam and a vest and viola, perfect footage. I have a junk Moza Air 2 and when it works it actually works well in this setup.
hey I just got a RS3.. after selling my ronin M, Helix jr, Helix Pro and returning my RS2.. and found myself here realizing the footage from motorized gimbals to truly replace a Steadicam is NEVER GOING TO HAPPEN... and yet again going back to my very natural fluid non-motorized Steadicam :) Just saying incase some of you don't realize there was a solution before motorized gizmos.
Combine the 2
Ain't using the IS in camera gives more shake than turning it off? Base on my experience it doesn't have help the stabilization but only jitters more when panning is introduced
Hey brother, are you using any side handles? They help A LOT! even just one side handle makes a huge difference versus just holding the gimbal in the center. Give it a shot! Smallrig makes some for under $100
I would try the 35mm F2 EF IS and use the speed booster. This will give you a wider FOV and IS.
Stabilizer on lens, body cam, gimbal and then you warp on post is over kill. If rs3 is that shaky in your hands then the old rsc is laughing. I guess its in your footing and body posture.
Very informative video
Try the SmallRig dual handle setup? Works great.
We use the RS2 and C70 and when we build our cam set up on the Tilta Ring, we notice a lot more shake on the camera even with our IS lenses and Supersmooth turned on. Compared to my Sony A7S3 with IBIS and a Stabilized lens, it's no comparison which is better: the Sony. I hate that Canon forces creators to compromise so many things with their cameras. IBIS or ND's. Full frame with big body or Super35 with the C70. MicroHDMI or Full HDMI. CLOG2 or stuck with RAW or CLOG3.
I just wanted to know where you live? Which country
If you just buy a Zhiyun Crane 2S you won't have any of these issues. I'm sure I'll get some hate from people emotionally attached to DJI but it's true. DJI is far better with regards to tech, accessories, ad-ons, and such. Zhiyun has far less to offer in those departments but in terms of simplicity and giving you very stable footage; Zhiyun is way ahead. There's always differences between competitors and those are the differences between Zhiyun and DJI. Zhiyun's tech accessories and ad-ons are pretty much a total embarrassment but their gimbals are far smoother.
i don't think so mate, I've used the Crane 2S and i am currently using the RS 3 pro andf i can attest to the fact that the RS3 Pro is way smoother. It's actually a fact
@@dannyelfilms I own both of them and have used each of them extensively. The Crane 2S is definitely smoother without any question. That being said I actually hate it and I do not use it anymore. The RS3 pro is a much better gimbal for so many reasons but the footage off of the crane 2S is a level smoother than the RS3 Pro.
@@CTcoreytrevor so there is a trick I learned recently that may even give you smoother footage but it's will require you going into the app to dial in the settings more and that is the deadband settings. You need to set it to high for every axis in the preferred user profile. And it has been a game changer for me.
I know that having a control ring helps, it helped me smooth out footage and moves, it was less balancing with my arms in a weird position in front of me, to a more relaxed and natural position on either side of the camera. For me the ring setup was well worth it.
If you are looking to eliminate the Z axis issue, I would suggest adding a vest and arm to your gimbal setup. Best Boy Adam has a great tutorial on this, building your own Arri Trinity. It’s the best option I’ve found, don’t hold yourself back with entry level glass!
You should get a Tilta Float.
I'm just a freelancer who needs occasional gimbal shots, so I rather not invest more than the price of the gimbal in bulky accessories. However, it might make sense to rent for specific shoots. I'd be interested to try it out!
wide angle lens, no ibis, deadband high, slow motion
Woo made the feature! Hypersmooth for the win!
So pleased you made this test. Seriously underrated YT channel.
The Canon RF 24-70L IS lens is supposed to be good for video work on a gimbal. I'm yet to try it but would love to see which high quality IS lenses you choose to test next. Nice work!
I’m also having issues with my rs3. I’m flying my Komodo and can’t seem to get the rs3 pro to be smooth.
I’m located in Rhode Island not far from boston
The gimbal videos have been extremely helpful, I have the exact same setup. Thank you for putting them together. If I could subscribe twice, I would.
✌
Thanks dude. As you're so specific to the point of talking about smoothness in terms of %s and what methods give more smoothness %, and going for so much accuracy in how stable your shots are then it seems you may be 'the man' that I need to watch for help in increasing my gimbal non-bumpiness (though I'm just using the RS3, not RS3 pro, not sure how much of a difference there is). Wouldn't have thought I'd need a Warp Stabilisation for a Gimbal but though it seems to be the way at least you and your friend has shown me that I should do this. Thanks for your meticulous work and advice here with my new toy. Also I subscribed not because you want the 10k but based on your articulate help already.
Could you also elaborate a little more on strength settings under advanced along with stiffness please! I'm on bmpcc g2 and it's a bloody chore to balance everytime. They decided to design this thing left heavy, so I usually strap a npf battery with tape on right hand end of the gimbal arm. Should probably get proper counter weights. Still is a big challenge. Thank you!
Maybe try out the zhiyun crane 3s. It can handle 6.5kg, big so it's perfect for the BM cameras. My gh6 is way too light 😅
RF 35 auto focus is soooo slow :D
Subscribed
does your friend just use active or standard for the stabilization?
standard
Thanks
Great video.
try the Ronin-M or Movi Pro
are you try with a dual handle?
The problem by using the supersmooth. The gimbal starts producing abnormal sound. The sound is very little but it can be heard. That sound is disturbing me. My setup is DJI RS 3, sony a7iv with the sony fe 20mm f1. 8 and the falcam f22 L bracket. Plus the rode wireless mic on top.
Hello great video, do you have a video stabilizing the c70 with the ronin? I’m going crazy with that process. Saw milion videos and can’t make it with that straight up stabe
I've heard contradicting things about camera IBIS when using a gimbal. Some people say camera IBIS interferes with the gimbal's stabilization while others say it helps.
Great Video
FYI: My Crane 3S with the Blackmagic URSA 12K + 50wh vmount + Ninja V+ with 4400 mah NPF battery + an EF 24 F2.8 STM or EF 40 F2.8 STM lens is ultra smooth (no shake, no jitter). It's so smooth, I don't need to use post stabilization.
Neither the lens nor my camera body has any form of stabilization.
Hi . I have Canon C70 with 15-35 2.8 IS and ronin 3 Pro.
I've just watched your video but I'm not sure to have understood.
Which is the best solution for using Ronin walking around during a wedding?
C70 digital IS off, Zoom IS on and supersmooth?
5:00 not really, I am a newb, and even for me I just hold a camera inclined in front direction, which easily takes care of all Z bounce for me. I am an engineer though, so such physics is easy for me lol. One downside with such holding method is that you need stronger arms and you will get tired faster, but Z will be compensated. I also must admit I have a recent camera with IBIS and all lenses are with OIS, so maybe I have never experienced the problem to an extent you did. Very possible. My Ronin footage is crazy smooth every time though, and I never tried SuperSmooth at all. When I say crazy smooth, Imean smoother than the best one at 5:40 that you showed. I have a smaller lighter camera and a smaller lens also.
Good Video. I subscribed simply because of how you asked Buddy, LOL. It was genuine and actually comical hahahaha. Your goal to get to 20,000 subs was a very funny line! Keep at it man, Good Channel! :-)
Eric, your content is fantastic. Thoughtful, thorough and lively. 10,000 is just a matter of time. Keep doing you.
That’s strange I heard lots of people saying turn ibis off when on a gimbal as I noticed more weird jitters with ibis on. Was using Nikon z6ii. They say the ibis is fighting against the gimbal stabilization causing unusual jitters. I might experiment again
Have you seen those guys who made the movie running around while testing the rs3 in the forest and the footage looked super smooth with no post editing software my mind was blown! I’m like how the hell!!!???
THANK YOU! had to do a little digging finding dead band settings.
How would I change settings to or operate to catch quick action?
For example how I used to throw my barebones xt4 with just a lens from point a to point b to catch some action reacting to sound real quick?
You should get Michael Ayers on, from Enes Yilmazer. He's the best gimbal artist in the world
One thing to review is style of IS in the lens. Not all RF and EF lenses have the same type of IS. For example, I found the 24-105 v3 EF lens with the hybrid IS from the 100mm Macro, was. a big jump in video IS vs the 24-105 vII. Sure that lens if F4,, but the hybrid IS was a noticeable difference. Since the hybrid IS has more sensors, it was a a clear winner vs the older IS. I also found, that fine tuning the balance was a major factor, with my C70, as the motors are swinging a lot of weight, since it's not only taller than a mirrorless camera I am also usually using heavier glass. Being even slightly off the balance can really impact the motor judder.
Have a look at this video
ruclips.net/video/PlAMhHlbjYQ/видео.html
This guy used dji rs3 while running and he still got stabled footage...
Oh - one more question: My pan keeps being slightly off - even after lots of autotuning. Is there a setting other than the (temporary) push mode to get tn right into the middle? Cheers!!
Weird how u didnt talk about the ibis problems and how it effects soo bad “wabbling” and such
Your videos are very entertaining however at the end of the video I still don’t know what’s the main take away point you are trying to come across. You throw a bunch of good ideas but at the end I feel like “ sooo what is he going to use now ??” Or like “ what is his recommendation now ? “
Great video anyways . Just my thoughts
I advise you to use a ring installation. The low efficiency of dead zone compensation was observed by me on all RS series gimbals. For more information, see here - ruclips.net/video/1x2vUxnHmko/видео.html
I just watched this video and came to see if you made it to your 10k subs and I see you did so congrats!
How about a vest with stabilizer arm? That would get you the tiny bit more toward vertical smooth out…
WOAH SUPERSMOOTH WORKS? WOW JEEZ. BIG NEWS.
Subbed. I have the RS3 with my A7C. The IBIS works wonders with the RS3.
its been a problem trouble me long time, now i know that: high deadband with low speed or high speed with low deadband
I got the tamron 15-30 2.8 G2 and speed booster with digital IS works a treat
brother do you know if canon R5C will work fully on DJI RS2
No worries - i use ibis + ois + rs3 and i get the steps on z axis anyway ;)) walking/running style makes a difference
Great content. I use my c70 with the RF 15-35 f2.8 on my RS2 - smooth smooth.
Great explanation! Thank you.
I think it is also important what kind of shoes are used.
Thanks for letting me know I'm not the only one suffering with shaky footage. I'm using a heavy Nikon D850 with a heavy 14-24mm lens, and it's been a lot of trial and error. I've had some great results, and some straight up awful ones. I'm trying to work on consistency.
Great video.
Thanks for the explanation and tips. The percentages really helped.
Very informative and helpful, thanks!
Please make a part II by adding Tilta Ring Grip and Readyrig. Thanks,
Great Video! Also a proud Rs-3 pro owner (works great with the Komodo!!) and your recommended deadband setting really helped my panning inconsistencies. One question: Do you still use the lens strap in super smooth with the lens support mounted? Thank you and keep on posting great stuff like this :)))
Hi Eric. Nice comparison and advice. You mentioned in the video that you returned the 35mm lens to invest in something more high-end with IS. Do you already know which glass will you buy? I really love the 35mm view, but as we all know we are all still waiting for L version of this RF lens...
You can smooth out the optical stabilisation and you are at ibis level :-D
That so strange i've seen guys running on no slow mo with no post stab and it was pretty smooth, I will test it out myself when I get it !
I’ve looked casually and I’m surprised there isn’t an active Z-axis solution. The z-axis helpers that I’ve seen are just spring loaded and not actually sensing the ups and downs.
That would be a DJI ronin 4d
Thank you for test. It is very helpful.
Anyone using the IS with the SR3 gimbal on the c70? I am trying the 16-35mm with and without camera IS and can't tell a difference .I am just a bit concerned that turning on the IS will create a jitter.
I was under the impression turn on IS or IBIS in camera when on a gimbal would be fighting against it thus giving weird types of jittery footage. I tried it on a Z6ii and noticed it so I always keep it off now
Great video and perfectly illustrated! 👌
awesome video! I love your % bar visuals!
DJI said to make the motor stronger by making the number lower manually? I've always put the number higher and got a worse result. Definitely going to try that I am in the same situation and I'm at the point where I absolutely hate my RSC2
I wanted to check that I should be going down 10 points and not up to increase motor strength/stiffness
thx for this seconde video
But i heard that its better to turn off the IBIS, is that not true???
I only just got the RS3 Pro, but when mounting my two main lenses, that lens support thingy ends up smack in the middle of the focus ring. And it seems there's only that one place to mount it? It makes using a focus motor impossible...Does anyone know of a solution to this?
Try the extended plate that comes with the combo package or buy one from small rig. Because small rig has the screws for the lens support.
i heard supersmooth hurts the longevity of the motors that is why it isnt the norm. Any truth to this?
I asked DJI and they said no, so you take that for what it's worth.
Good stuff man, thanks!
Oh yes get the TILTA ring too that really helps with the Y axis in my experience
I think the dual hand grips in under slung mode with a easy rig stabil light will be best option for the most stable footage. Also with the easy rig you will have no fatigue in your arms if shooting long events
try this set up with the tilta float
I watched both your videos about this but my experience has been quite the opposite when using a super wide 14mm lens. Maybe it is camera related as I am using a Nikon Z9 and Nikon 14-24mm, I was getting bounce issues, no matter how hard I tried to walk smoothly. Then I turned IBIS off and the problem was fixed when using my RS 3 Pro. Peter Makholm advises the same ruclips.net/video/iesGKoEj2ns/видео.html
Can't say I've ever used Nikon ibis, but I'm not surprised a 14mm looks smooth on it's own. My 11-16 Tokina appears really smooth too.
Thanks for the tip. For what it's worth, even though I'm using different equipment and camera to you I may just give turning off IS a go and see what happens with my RS3.
May I ask, what strength of a diffusion filter are you using?
Usually 1/8
Get the dual handle grip
How did you get that c100 on the gimbal? What type plate are you using? You're obviously not using the little riser.
I think it was just the normal baseplate (non riser version) it comes with both I believe.
Just got an rs3 pro last weekend and I guess the extended plate only comes with the combo pack.
I see small rig makes an extended plate.
I'll try that one.
So glad I watch you video again and noticed that. I have a c100 and c200 and was going crazy trying to make it work.
Thanks for getting back.
i have 4 year experience using gimbal from any brands like moza and zhiyun for my many jobs, the new line dji gimbal after the Ronis S and Sc first gen suck miserably, i have the rsc2 and and try out the rs2 and maxed out all the setting to as good as possibel but i get nothing, so ironic that moza and zhiyun more smoother than overpriced dji gimbal. btw this is a discussion guys, correct me if i am wrong but that my opinion and my experience
Interesting! What camera do you fly on them?
@@SoundItOutFilms sony a7iii with smallrig cage and sigma 24 70 2.8 art, balanced af on every axis
@@Wahyuvisual How does it go with a C70?
@@olliegarside dont recommend bro, buy another high payload
cool video! what would be the best settings for orbit shots?
i found the tilta dual handle.vastly.improves.the rs3 pro
I have never supported a lens on a gimble. Is it pretty easy? That would help balancing and keeping it set the way you began with, without any of the adjustments lossening over time
It's actually so the whole thing is more rigid & stable. If you're using long lenses there will be some natural give without it.
I stopped using it, cause I use battery grip which lifts the lens way about the height of the lens stabilizer.
And since I have no plans of buying a longer one, I simply make without it.
Just increase the motors just a little to compensate.
You always put out great stuff. As a C70/R5c shooter I appreciate the insight.
Thanks Scottie!
Fantastic video!!!
I use aperture on camera
Do you use c70’s digital IS?
Never mind, you answered my question
I've switched to using my R6 on my RS2 lately. Paired with my old 24mm 2.8 IS EF & IBIS it really helps eliminate that Z axis movement. Great vid as always mate!
Does both the IS and ibis work together? I thought only 1 can work at a time
How do you put the deadband to high? Nowhere on the rs2 does it display a menu option with the name deadband
If it's like the RS3, a lot of settings are only available in the app connected via Bluetooth.
@@SoundItOutFilms RS2