Team, Really enjoyed this video! Thank you for your work: your organization (not visible for us), the input from the beeksquad and the Q&A and your encouraging words.
Hello!! Thank you !! I know one old beekeeper that he told his friend that in the wild bees make small openings trough the wax combs to move in the cluster then he did same in his hives and all his Nucs started to survive 100%
I often hear people fuss about mites, and separately how SHB only attack a weak colony. Oddly enough I find it easier to fend off mites than SHB. Small hive beetles are like robers that take advantage when you leave a door or window unlocked when mites seem to be like if your car is stolen when its left running in the driveway. Put a imply, SHB will take advantage of any issue and can destroy almost any colony inside 2 weeks, 10 days if you honor Jamie Ellis. Mites don't stand a chance if you take the keys out of the ignition... do a brood break at the expense of honey. Its not awesome but it works.
Hello, to find out if there is activity in the hive in winter I take out the tray under the hive and I see the number of lanes occupied by traces of operculum waste. and at the same time I can see if there are varroa mites. Thank you for your very informative videos from Switzerland best regards
Interesting for me here in WNY our worst deepest cold is mid January to mid February. That’s when the really deep cold sets in, then suddenly start of March we get thaw spells… false spring lol😂
The bees love my husbands deer feeders. He puts persimmon powder on the corn and apple and there are thousands on nice Fall days. Is this something we should purchase for bee food since they love it?
Perhaps you can use this in your Green chair Friday talk. Last night you said you don't treat for mites during winter. I had mite levels down well under threshold counts in Late Sept. so thought I was good and didn't do any treatments in Oct to not slow winter brood production and fed them heavy. I was cleaning out the dead bees through the entrance so I thought to mite test the clean out of bees, it was only 2 days of dead loss and pretty fresh. The mite count was above threshold, I am thinking to apply Varroxsan strips to counter attack the mite load. I am going to just apply strips in top box where they are clustered, get in and out quickly. During my test many mites were floating at the top of the solution I am thinking the live mites drop to the bottom of solution and the dead mites were the ones floating at the top and should not be counted. Is this a correct observation
@@beek if the cluster moves up the frame and the queen is in the middle of the cluster, where does the queen find the empty cells to deposit the eggs? Let's not forget the cluster moves up on a frame where cells are full of honey and the empty cells are left behind. Either the winter bees live for six months and no brood, where all the mites die because the maximum life of a mite is 2 months, this is the case with the wild bees, or the bees do not form a perfect ball of a cluster as is the case with your hives that are fed winter bee kind where the bees do not form a cluster rather get to populate all the winter be kind thus having abundant food, sugar and protein, which triggers the queen to lay eggs, perpetuating the mite problem. someone said that when the mites reproduce and live with the bees in a hive where do they get the viruses?
Team,
Really enjoyed this video! Thank you for your work: your organization (not visible for us), the input from the beeksquad and the Q&A and your encouraging words.
Hello!! Thank you !! I know one old beekeeper that he told his friend that in the wild bees make small openings trough the wax combs to move in the cluster then he did same in his hives and all his Nucs started to survive 100%
Thanks David for enriching us with your knowledege👍👍👍
Love all your advice I’m always rewatching thank you:))
You’re the best David ! Thank you
I often hear people fuss about mites, and separately how SHB only attack a weak colony.
Oddly enough I find it easier to fend off mites than SHB.
Small hive beetles are like robers that take advantage when you leave a door or window unlocked when mites seem to be like if your car is stolen when its left running in the driveway.
Put a imply, SHB will take advantage of any issue and can destroy almost any colony inside 2 weeks, 10 days if you honor Jamie Ellis.
Mites don't stand a chance if you take the keys out of the ignition... do a brood break at the expense of honey. Its not awesome but it works.
Really enjoyed last week’s video Thank you for doing that.
That’s right and if it’s insulated well the heat they make won’t leave the hives as fast as it would in a 3/4 inch box
You just need to use a well insulated hive, so the bees are not clustered so tight through the winter and OA is great
Hello,
to find out if there is activity in the hive in winter I take out the tray under the hive and I see the number of lanes occupied by traces of operculum waste.
and at the same time I can see if there are varroa mites.
Thank you for your very informative videos
from Switzerland
best regards
The beetles will lay eggs in the fondant and can slime out a colony in the early spring.
I went out and fed mine, put mouse guards on... all hives looked good... fingers crossed
I just tip hive a few degrees forward moisture runs down sides and on forward panel.
Interesting for me here in WNY our worst deepest cold is mid January to mid February. That’s when the really deep cold sets in, then suddenly start of March we get thaw spells… false spring lol😂
Lost all my bees. 🐝 year 2. Prepping for year 3!! 🤨 💪🏽
Missed your live q&a but what's your thoughts on the clear dome style inner covers for winter?
The bees love my husbands deer feeders. He puts persimmon powder on the corn and apple and there are thousands on nice Fall days. Is this something we should purchase for bee food since they love it?
Perhaps you can use this in your Green chair Friday talk. Last night you said you don't treat for mites during winter.
I had mite levels down well under threshold counts in Late Sept. so thought I was good and didn't do any treatments in Oct to not slow winter brood production and fed them heavy. I was cleaning out the dead bees through the entrance so I thought to mite test the clean out of bees, it was only 2 days of dead loss and pretty fresh. The mite count was above threshold, I am thinking to apply Varroxsan strips to counter attack the mite load. I am going to just apply strips in top box where they are clustered, get in and out quickly. During my test many mites were floating at the top of the solution
I am thinking the live mites drop to the bottom of solution and the dead mites were the ones floating at the top and should not be counted. Is this a correct observation
I think you got to pretty much all the questions tonight !
Is there a brood break in winter? if yes, then the mite count should go to zero within 2 months, this is the mite life span.
Nope, the queen will continue to lay a reduced amount of eggs in the winter, plus mites can overwinter in the cluster.
@@beek if the cluster moves up the frame and the queen is in the middle of the cluster, where does the queen find the empty cells to deposit the eggs? Let's not forget the cluster moves up on a frame where cells are full of honey and the empty cells are left behind.
Either the winter bees live for six months and no brood, where all the mites die because the maximum life of a mite is 2 months, this is the case with the wild bees, or the bees do not form a perfect ball of a cluster as is the case with your hives that are fed winter bee kind where the bees do not form a cluster rather get to populate all the winter be kind thus having abundant food, sugar and protein, which triggers the queen to lay eggs, perpetuating the mite problem.
someone said that when the mites reproduce and live with the bees in a hive where do they get the viruses?