EVERY CHAIN SAWMILL - Your guide to your perfect choice! | LOGOSOL
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- We guide you through all of our chain sawmills and help you make the right choice!
Visit our dealers for price and info!
🇨🇦 Canada: www.logosol.ca/store/en/
🇺🇸 USA: www.logosol.us/store/
🇪🇸 Spain: es.logosol.com/
🇫🇷 France: www.logosol.fr/store/
🇩🇪 Germany: www.logosol.de/store/
🇬🇧 United Kindom: www.logosol.co.uk/store/
🇮🇪 Ireland: ie.logosol.com/store/
🇵🇱 Poland: pl.logosol.com/store/
🇫🇮 Finland: www.logosol.fi/store/
🇳🇴 Norway: no.logosol.com/store/
🇸🇪 Sweden: www.logosol.se/store/
🇪🇪 Estonia: ee.logosol.com/store/
🇨🇿 Czechia: cz.logosol.com/
🇭🇺 Hungary: www.logosol.hu/
🇸🇰 sk.logosol.com/
🇸🇮 Slovenia: si.logosol.com/
🇷🇺 Russia: www.logosol.ru/store/
Not your country? Visit www.logosol.com/store/ for your local dealer!
Take the opportunity to ask questions about our sawmills to our knowledgeable sales team directly in the chat and get user tips and advice! 
Хобби
I have a Timberjig and am happy with it, however value for money and accuracy the Alaskin mill is by far the winner, any chainsaw mill bar without a bar end support will flex especially as the cutting width increases, yes I realise some Logosol mills do have a bar end support but also have a significent price increase, and are very limited to cutting width, value for money a good quality Alaskan sawmill is hands down winner( in my opinion and application)👍
When will the electric chainsaw be available in the USA? I would buy a mill if I could get the electric saw. Too expensive in operating cost to run the gas chainsaw but the electric saw would be a perfect setup
Det hade varit intressant att se en jämförelse mellan olika motorsågar. Från 391 till 881 så man kan se hur stor skillnad det gör i hastighet.
the one thing what I don't like about chainsaw mill is the running cost (special gassoline ( or regular 95+2T oil) + bar oil) is 2x-3x more the bandsaw mill with 4T engine
Maybe, but the initial setup cost of a high quality Alaskan mill as well as the portability far out weigh the cost of a bandmill which I will admit have a far smaller kerf and require less physical input from the operator, yet they have fragile blades etc etc , I suppose it is the classic "horses for courses"thing and I realise a lot of folk are not prepared to put in the hard yards associated with a chainsaw mill👍guaranteed tho I can cut substantially wider slabs and boards with my chainsaw mill, I suppose each has there pluses and negatives, either way at least we enjoy cutting Timber and creating something worthwhile.
Yeah, I have been thinking about the same factors. Actually I own both a F2+ and a bandsaw. Not a high-end one though. I find that the saved kerf is often eaten up by a wandering blade. I know that in theory it can be dealt with, if you are really good at what you do, and have sufficient adjustment-options on your saw. I don't. Consequently I get a much higher yield from my F2+ than I ever got from my bandsaw! And it's way easier to position the logs on the F2+ than a budget bandsaw!
I'm sure I spend more on gas and oil though. And the chansaw requires quite a bit more looking after. Cleaning, adjusting chain-tension, filling up and so on. On the 4T bandsaw, one tank of gas lasts a long time! And there is no oil required. Just water for luberication.
I have been considering getting an electric chainsaw, to cut down on the energy-cost. But I would have to make some significant investments to do so. First in getting 3-phaze available where I do my sawing. And the of course bying the saw-unit itself. Unfortunately, it will take a lot of sawing for that to reach break even. - I wish there was a 1-phase option, allthough I realize it would be slower. It would make it so much easier to either run a drop-cable, or use a portable generator! I have looked extensivly for a standard electric chainsaw that would fit the bill. But I have not managed to find one! Mounting is the first issue. Then, none of them are capable of continous operation, like a sawmill would require. So DIY is my only option, I am afraid. 😕
I have been searching quite diligently, but have not found any video-material or documentation or on how you are supposed to release the saw-carrige from the rail, when using "remote-control" for petrol saws. The manual shows what nuts and bolts go into the assembly. But not which have to be looosened to release the carrige. Preferably without ruining the tension between the carrige and the rail. I fear that it will take to much time for it to be practical. Especially when doing undercuts, which I find myself doing quite a bit. Normally I would just glide the saw of the end of the rail, and carry it back to the start of the rail. That's not going to work with the remote control. I also find that I quite often need to bring the saw to the "service-bench". Most frequently to adjust the tension of the chain. That can't be done with the saw attached to the carrige, and the carrige stuck on the rail. So... Could you please illustrate somehow how that works? I have asked in comments here on RUclips before, but not received any feedback from you. @Logosol Portable Sawmills
The usual... Logosol don't read their comments. They also don't answer messages on Facebook or email. They did not even care to answer my questions when I was considering to purchase a sawmill from them. - You have got people that knows saws. Now hire one that knows how to deal with das internjet! :-p
Call a local dealer….they were quite helpful to me…