This was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting this. I’ve been piecing together a basket case and the factory manual never identifies the steel sleeve on the right crankshaft output that goes under the primary drive gear. Another great YZ85 bottom end video never mentions it either (but covers a lot of other stuff). It’s not there in one frame then magically appears before being covered up by the gear. Anyway you made me feel good about my build. Thanks again!
You really should put that crank into freezer, it will go right in without any force, me personally put hot bearings first onto frozen crank, then freeze it again, and then heat up cases and it sits right in, no press no hammer, easy job, You way is good to but some peaople can`t put crank into bearings, and start hamering him and ended up with distored crank. Sorry for bad english, but you get the point.
Cranks pretty resilient if your careful. Point of the video was you can build these 'old school' without buying hundreds of dollars in tools to use once or twice and then gather dust.
@Schneb hey nice workplace you got there with the boys seems like alot of fun wish my dad was that patienced with me back in the day! I see u used sort of a jig to press the bearings in what kind of device is that want to order one myself! Thanks Jens
Hi Jens, my father was great at showing us how to build stuff but he was not patient lol. I want my kids to know how to do this stuff, its important that they want to do it. The press I have is from princess auto, its a cheap one because I dont do a whole lot of pressing but I got tired of the 'other methods'. Here's mine www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12-ton-shop-press/A-p8604639e . Works good for most things.
Hey I wanted to ask how you torqued the primary gear, because when I try to the crank just spins. Also with the clutch in I wasn’t able to fit a socket into it. If you could respond quick that would be great. Thank you
Hi, the primary gear nut can be torqued by holding onto the connecting rod in the TDC position with one hand and tighten the nut with the other. Helps to have a second set of hands for this. There is an easier way and it involves using two pieces of wood (3/8" plywood strips work well) and clamping the gear with a pair of vicegrips. The wood protects the gear teeth from being damaged and it wont spin while you torque the nut. Good luck !
my grandfather has been building dirtbikes for 35 years and only uses wiseco.they are good brand just do your rebuild right and you wont have problems.
@@thegriffinbros6651 Yamaha used to have them available online as .pdf. Unfortunately like everyone else they realized they can make a quick buck by selling them. Best bet is to just google it and you'll find everything you need. Most of the small 6mm bolts will be 7lbs, cylinder and head are 19-22 lbs.
@@thegriffinbros6651 clutch springs are 7lbs if memory serves, those are so prone to breaking on older bikes I'd even go lighter than that. Personally I snug them up with a screwdriver just so as to not break the aluminium in the basket. As for the basket nut 50 lbs comes to mind, you probably will have to put a wooden wedge between the drive gear and the basket gear to keep it from spinning if you dont have a clutch holding tool.
Yamaha used to have them online for free. But they got greedy and now you have to buy them, Haynes has always been a reasonable priced option if you want a physical book, if not you can buy the .pdf version from yamaha themselves or multiple online sources. Best bet is probably to browse a few forums tons of helpful folks out there.
Hey man I need some advise please I took my bottom end apart due to it not shifting right fix that but when I went to put it back together my crank was hard to rotate an it wasn't like that before I took it apart what do u think I did wrong I haven't torque any screws I jus put a few in an some gasket maker to seal an I have to force it to turn
Was there a lot of resistance when you closed up the case? Check that gear on the left side of the transmission that has to fit properly, check 6:00 approx for transmission. Other thing you should check and I'd do this first, check the piston ring. It must be properly aligned on the piston as there is a small pin in the groove. Here's a link to my top end assembly vid, ruclips.net/video/0JeIUPublPw/видео.htmlm59s at that point I mention the ring position. Hope it helps.
I’m 16. Mechanical inclined. How hard is this to do in getting one tmr that needs rod bearing should I do a full rebuild or just bearings and price and how long should it take
The crank kit is a great item, it is not hard to do if you are patient and do your research. The whole build took a few hours for me including making the video. As far as doing the rod bearing, if you get this kit its easy if you are going to attempt replacing the rod bearing its a lot more complicated and will require a press to push the rod pin out and back in. I would not recommend splitting the crankshaft unless you have all the tools and knowledge to do it properly (a tiny misalignment will destroy your engine quickly).
www.motosport.com/wiseco-top-and-bottom-end-kit-2stroke?mmy=yamaha%3Byz85%3B2003 This is where I got this one, shop around of course you may be able to get a better deal.
The 'correct' thing to use is a product called Yamagasket or some such thing. RTV gasket maker from your local auto parts store works just fine, 3 years later and this has never leaked a drop.
I've just order threebond 1184 I've done some research and it's made to do exact same job I've got red rtv high temp gasket maker here to but I've herd that it's a little too soft not sure just wanted to be safe :)
Dam you do a great job it need you too fully rebuild my yz for me got another one I would like for you too put on a atena big bore kit on it for me you no what you are doing it have checked on the big bore kit complete top end will make it a 105cc super mini and use the crank that's all ready in it I can get the kit at Amazon for 550 dollars not gonna order the kit with the crank that one is 750 and that makes it 112cc super mini just might go with the big bore and all you have to replace the top end which it comes with new top end cylinder and piston and rings and gasket complete kit don't need to buy nothing but the big bore 105cc atena kit for around 600 hundred dollars it would be worth it
Thanks Michael ! You are right about the big bore kits, they're not all that much more money than a stock rebuild if you are going to replace the same parts. Did one on my sons old Baja 50, took it up to a 70 for I think it was $140 in total.
Case splitter might be worth it if you dont want to have to make something like I did. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter here's one of the cheaper options out there. There's also videos of people who have made their own like I did. Other than that you might consider a flywheel removal tool for a few bucks but you dont really need one if you're patient.
Dont worry about the transmission they're not as complex as they look. ruclips.net/video/NARVh4IwpRg/видео.html here's one of mine putting a YZ125 transmission together that was tossed into a box with the engine that was all apart. The 85 and 125 are very similar so its a good example for ya.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting this. I’ve been piecing together a basket case and the factory manual never identifies the steel sleeve on the right crankshaft output that goes under the primary drive gear. Another great YZ85 bottom end video never mentions it either (but covers a lot of other stuff). It’s not there in one frame then magically appears before being covered up by the gear. Anyway you made me feel good about my build. Thanks again!
Glad it helped
Dude did your like 10 year old son really pull that crank out and say god this is heavy as hell😂😂
Lol he did 😂😂😂
You guys are a really good help not alot of people do it like you guys thanks for the help
Thanks ! Glad to be of help.
Hey I’m putting my why is it 85 2009 back together and I have four tiny black threaded things and I have no idea where they go....can you help me?
You really should put that crank into freezer, it will go right in without any force, me personally put hot bearings first onto frozen crank, then freeze it again, and then heat up cases and it sits right in, no press no hammer, easy job, You way is good to but some peaople can`t put crank into bearings, and start hamering him and ended up with distored crank. Sorry for bad english, but you get the point.
Cranks pretty resilient if your careful. Point of the video was you can build these 'old school' without buying hundreds of dollars in tools to use once or twice and then gather dust.
He said all sealent are the same no there not if he thinks so he should put it together with superglue
@Schneb hey nice workplace you got there with the boys seems like alot of fun wish my dad was that patienced with me back in the day! I see u used sort of a jig to press the bearings in what kind of device is that want to order one myself! Thanks Jens
Hi Jens, my father was great at showing us how to build stuff but he was not patient lol. I want my kids to know how to do this stuff, its important that they want to do it. The press I have is from princess auto, its a cheap one because I dont do a whole lot of pressing but I got tired of the 'other methods'. Here's mine www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12-ton-shop-press/A-p8604639e . Works good for most things.
Thanks for the helpful video! Nice to see people doing good things.
Thank you, glad to help
Hey I wanted to ask how you torqued the primary gear, because when I try to the crank just spins. Also with the clutch in I wasn’t able to fit a socket into it. If you could respond quick that would be great. Thank you
Hi, the primary gear nut can be torqued by holding onto the connecting rod in the TDC position with one hand and tighten the nut with the other. Helps to have a second set of hands for this. There is an easier way and it involves using two pieces of wood (3/8" plywood strips work well) and clamping the gear with a pair of vicegrips. The wood protects the gear teeth from being damaged and it wont spin while you torque the nut. Good luck !
my grandfather has been building dirtbikes for 35 years and only uses wiseco.they are good brand just do your rebuild right and you wont have problems.
Hey I’m rebuilding the same engine and can’t find the torque specs anywhere
Where can I find them
@@thegriffinbros6651 Yamaha used to have them available online as .pdf. Unfortunately like everyone else they realized they can make a quick buck by selling them. Best bet is to just google it and you'll find everything you need. Most of the small 6mm bolts will be 7lbs, cylinder and head are 19-22 lbs.
Schneb thank you! Would u happen to know the clutch springs?
Schneb and clutch basket?
@@thegriffinbros6651 clutch springs are 7lbs if memory serves, those are so prone to breaking on older bikes I'd even go lighter than that. Personally I snug them up with a screwdriver just so as to not break the aluminium in the basket. As for the basket nut 50 lbs comes to mind, you probably will have to put a wooden wedge between the drive gear and the basket gear to keep it from spinning if you dont have a clutch holding tool.
Did you put the washer on the gear cog that falls off?
yea, slid it on and ended up taking it back off to put that washer on, good catch ;)
Does anybody know where I can find the torque specs for all the bolts inside the transmission and the case bolts?
Yamaha used to have them online for free. But they got greedy and now you have to buy them, Haynes has always been a reasonable priced option if you want a physical book, if not you can buy the .pdf version from yamaha themselves or multiple online sources. Best bet is probably to browse a few forums tons of helpful folks out there.
Hey man I need some advise please I took my bottom end apart due to it not shifting right fix that but when I went to put it back together my crank was hard to rotate an it wasn't like that before I took it apart what do u think I did wrong I haven't torque any screws I jus put a few in an some gasket maker to seal an I have to force it to turn
Was there a lot of resistance when you closed up the case? Check that gear on the left side of the transmission that has to fit properly, check 6:00 approx for transmission. Other thing you should check and I'd do this first, check the piston ring. It must be properly aligned on the piston as there is a small pin in the groove. Here's a link to my top end assembly vid, ruclips.net/video/0JeIUPublPw/видео.htmlm59s at that point I mention the ring position. Hope it helps.
Schneb yeah I found out my bearing weren't all the way flush
I’m 16. Mechanical inclined. How hard is this to do in getting one tmr that needs rod bearing should I do a full rebuild or just bearings and price and how long should it take
The crank kit is a great item, it is not hard to do if you are patient and do your research. The whole build took a few hours for me including making the video. As far as doing the rod bearing, if you get this kit its easy if you are going to attempt replacing the rod bearing its a lot more complicated and will require a press to push the rod pin out and back in. I would not recommend splitting the crankshaft unless you have all the tools and knowledge to do it properly (a tiny misalignment will destroy your engine quickly).
So get the kit. Any links by chance
www.motosport.com/wiseco-top-and-bottom-end-kit-2stroke?mmy=yamaha%3Byz85%3B2003 This is where I got this one, shop around of course you may be able to get a better deal.
You can get top end and bottom end kits separately as well from the same site.
You should have used a crank installer tool that crank is probably out of balance now
Cranks fine, it takes a lot more than that to damage one. ;)
I was wandering if you would build me a motor if so get back in touch thanks again great videos you no what you are doing very nice work
What did you use to seal the engine cases ?
The 'correct' thing to use is a product called Yamagasket or some such thing. RTV gasket maker from your local auto parts store works just fine, 3 years later and this has never leaked a drop.
I've just order threebond 1184 I've done some research and it's made to do exact same job I've got red rtv high temp gasket maker here to but I've herd that it's a little too soft not sure just wanted to be safe :)
@@carlmatischok2469 yea for sure the RTV isnt ideal and would probably leak at some point.
Cheers for help dude I'm using your video as help when doing rebuild this weekend. Can I leave transmission in when I split cases to save time ?
@@carlmatischok2469 yes absolutely, there's a few things that may want to fall out so take care but they all go back in without any real issues.
Dam you do a great job it need you too fully rebuild my yz for me got another one I would like for you too put on a atena big bore kit on it for me you no what you are doing it have checked on the big bore kit complete top end will make it a 105cc super mini and use the crank that's all ready in it I can get the kit at Amazon for 550 dollars not gonna order the kit with the crank that one is 750 and that makes it 112cc super mini just might go with the big bore and all you have to replace the top end which it comes with new top end cylinder and piston and rings and gasket complete kit don't need to buy nothing but the big bore 105cc atena kit for around 600 hundred dollars it would be worth it
Thanks Michael ! You are right about the big bore kits, they're not all that much more money than a stock rebuild if you are going to replace the same parts. Did one on my sons old Baja 50, took it up to a 70 for I think it was $140 in total.
Very helpful video and good job on the rebuild.
Thanks 👍
looks like it could use a clutch basket too
Not so bad, little filing and its good to go, 3 years and clutch still works flawlessly.
can some one make video on how to take apart and put back a bottom end i rather learn and save money den to take it to a shop
ruclips.net/video/5OUwfSF1TjE/видео.html Its one of my early videos but I strip down the bottom end for this bike.
ok so wat tools should i buy and wat tools dont i need to buy
oh and is their a way that i can split da case and not have to mess with the transmission gear
Case splitter might be worth it if you dont want to have to make something like I did. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17167/Tusk-Crankcase-Splitter here's one of the cheaper options out there. There's also videos of people who have made their own like I did. Other than that you might consider a flywheel removal tool for a few bucks but you dont really need one if you're patient.
Dont worry about the transmission they're not as complex as they look. ruclips.net/video/NARVh4IwpRg/видео.html here's one of mine putting a YZ125 transmission together that was tossed into a box with the engine that was all apart. The 85 and 125 are very similar so its a good example for ya.
Do not use Wiseco. My dad and I thought that they were good brands. They are not.
Ran great all summer, started up 3 kicks yesterday, ran good then. We havent had a single problem so far.
They are good. You're just an idiot
177 Media yep your an idiot I’ve drag raced three cylinder banshees for about 12 years and always used wiseco and never had a problem
@@parkerrushing4893 that's right it's only use Wisco pro lite piston on all my bikes there great
Michael Holden yes sir it is
Need yam a bond
Why
Dirtbike Rider so don’t leak
Why would it leak with high temp etc gasket sealant?
Dirtbike Rider can’t use high temp gasket sealer
So do you just use yamabond or do you use gasket and yamabond ?
Where is your crank seal?
Good catch, I showed the right side seals but didnt actually get a video of the left one (under the Magneto).
@@SchnebsGarage do you recall which way it goes in?
@@ashbandacoot The seal is slightly tapered on the inside the small side goes inwards.
Wiseco stuff is garbage
I’ve heard pistons are fine but there cranks are trash