Watching you brush the eraser crumbs off the cover with the back of your fingers made me jump. Should you use a soft brush instead? I am always amazed at how you confidently handle books with your bare hands. Do you ever wear gloves? Thanks for your detailed commentary as you work! Fantastic!
Mickey, thanks for the view, the kind words, and the thoughtful question! This question has been asked several times by viewers, and not always as politely as you raise it here! Actually it turns out that museum professionals and library conservators don't recommend gloves when handling old paper. The official position of the Library of Congress is that clean, dry, hands are the best way to interact with an old book, all things considered. So i never use gloves in my regular interactions with comic books, although there are certain times when it makes sense with certain modern covers that are more plastic than paper and with mold or other contaminants. As to whether or not it would be better to use a brush or the back of my clean and dry hands to brush away eraser crumbs, i find the brush tends to hold some eraser crumbs and put them back on the book with the subsequent stroke and the back of my hand doesn't (as much). And of course the back of my hand is much faster. So for efficiency's sake (and because i have the confidence that comes from knowing the recommendation of the Library of Congress that my clean and dry hands are OK for handling paper) i tend to use the back of my hands. But i do have a brush and use it on occasion. It's just much slower/less efficient than my hands.
@@DrPaulKosnikthank you for the explanation. I think conservation at your level requires something like the hands of a surgeon. I’ve watched professional art restorers make quick and decisive moves that seem horrifyingly dangerous, but turn out fine every time. I appreciate the exceptional skill it takes to be a top level conservator like yourself.
It's always a pleasure to watch you work, Dr. Paul! I'd like to urge the community to use the term "specular reflection" instead of "raking light". In optics, there are two main types of reflection: diffuse and specular. Specular reflection is when rays of light bounce off of a smooth surface while obeying the law of reflection (angle of incidence equals angle of reflection). In diffuse reflection, the outgoing rays (from a rougher surface) are almost isotropic. Specular reflection is what most of us use to see warps, dents and gloss loss. It's using the cover like a speculum, or mirror. "Raking light" implies that the rays of light are nearly tangent to the surface, thus exposing bumps and warps through the shadows that they cast. Specular reflection can be seen with normal (perpendicular) rays if the surface is polished enough. So these are two distinct and useful approaches to comic evaluation and therefore two terms are needed. Now excuse me while I go annoy a different RUclipsr about the term "Newton's rings" ... 🙂
This is a great point. I used to describe it as “light with a low angle of incidence” but Matt Nelson has popularized the term “raking light” in his book and numerous interviews and videos he’s done to describe the lighting they use at CGC for grading. I adopted the term to match his parlance when describing it, mostly so as to not confuse others and have to answer questions about the differences. I’ve been surprised how many folks struggle with the concept of incident light, and how few can use it effectively to reveal defects in a comic book cover. Appreciate your feedback and I should probably make the distinction between the use of reflection and raking light as you suggest, but may still use CGC’s term as short hand in most instances.
@@DrPaulKosnik Absolutely, at this point it's good communication to use "raking light". But here's the problem: some might be so hung up on a low angle of incidence that they miss the benefits of a high angle of incidence for judging gloss. Low angle may be best for seeing bumps, but high angle is best for judging whether a surface is smooth enough to undergo specular reflection. Even a piece of printer paper will look glossy if held within ~3 degrees of edge-on to the incoming light, but as you tilt it you only see diffuse reflection. So I don't know what we should say except maybe throw in a phrase like "raking light does not have to be raking, just use the surface like a mirror".
Dr. Paul: Thank you for the instructional videos. I wanted to offer some random thoughts on cover cleaning. I have not tried the eraser-shavings method, as from a draftsman's pouch, which you had demonstrated on your early Flash Comics issue, so that video is much-appreciated and something I plan to use. Speaking of draftsmen, I wanted to mention possible use of an aluminum eraser shield. I was not aware that the Pentel brand erasers are less invasive than Staedtler Mars, so I appreciate that info. More than 15 years ago I shifted my focus from collecting comic books to collections of newspaper comics, along with PS Artbooks collections, DC Archives and the like. The newspaper comic collections are often oblong, with the text blocks' sagging lower fore edges especially prone to dirt transfer from bookshelves. I've used a Staedtler eraser for all these years, with excellent results, to carefully clean the text block edges from general soiling and smudges. For a hard, glossy cover, I use a 3-option approach to cleaning off any foreign matter: first I'll see if it responds to water on a tissue; if not, I try a little Naphtha. If those both fail, I will try a small amount of household cleaner such as Formula 409. In rare cases I may try Isopropyl alcohol as a 4th option. The alcohol often will remove permanent marker, on which the Naphtha (which I far prefer) may be ineffective. I will caution though that the Isopropyl may be too invasive for some plastic-coated surfaces. My experiences with dust jackets have some things in common with comic covers: decal removal and pressing of indentations. Residue from decals usually (but not always!) poses no problem, as I've used Naphtha on jackets since the 1970s -- keeping in mind a high-gloss jacket is a different animal from the vast majority of comic covers and will easily withstand most any cautious cleaning. As far as residue on comic covers, on which Naphtha is not an option, I may be alone in the following practice: I like to have some wax paper handy, where I don't want sticky residue to come into contact with anything, so I will cut a small square of the paper to cover the remnants -- buying me time to go back and address the matter later. This practice earned me some good-natured ridicule on the CGC message boards, as I'm replacing one decal with another -- but the wax paper is relatively translucent and I think worth using. One never can predict when residue will prove VERY challenging to deal with; I've had cases where it's taken me the better part of an hour to remove it from a jacket afflicted with a stubborn decal, so having the wax paper buys me the time I sometimes just don't have. At times I've used a half-inch diameter steel bearing ball on dustjacket indentations and wrinkles, something that's also recommended for comic covers if done correctly with a hard backing. I have an old, small, flat lead window-sash weight for that backing. The final and most pertinent thing I wanted to mention to you concerns DCs from the 1950s and '60s, my longtime interest. I suggest inserting copy paper between the covers and interior first/last pages when cleaning, as the inks of the commonly black & white interior covers are prone to smudging -- and the paper will prevent any transfer of black ink to the interior page. Best wishes for your cleaning and conservation work & videos.
Jim, thank you for the thoughtful and informative comment! A few responses: I don't think a metal eraser shield is generally a great idea, unless you modify them a bit. They are stamped from thin stainless steel stock, and the stamping process leaves a sharp burr on one side. Fine for drafting work, but this burr, if used non-judiciously, will absolutely scratch a glossy cover. I have seen them used successfully for comic book dry cleaning, but i recommend if you want to use one that you deburr first with some 1,000 grit sandpaper or the like to make it safer to use. I also think the Staedler eraser is a fine eraser--i believe they were purchased by Mars and i'm not sure they still make the old compound that was so effective. I have a few old ones lying around that i swear are more effective and more pleasant to use than any eraser you can buy today! I rather like your wax paper idea. I also use a ball bearing on occasion, and have done so on the channel. However, i found these sculptor's tools on Amazon and prefer them because i can pick the exact diameter ball and can apply greater pressure if i need it, so i rarely use the ball bearing anymore. www.amazon.com/dp/B083SPD852?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzlhcc06-20&creativeASIN=B083SPD852&asc_item-id=amzn1.shoppablemedia.v1.21657f0c-e8ff-4759-af30-96da3bf34759&ref_=aip_sf_photo_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin&th=1
How can I create good lighting for restoration and should I buy a press machine for getting rid of creases and folds? Thank you for these great techniques!
Carl thanks for the questions, glad you are enjoying the content! I have Amazon affiliate links to the LED ring light that I use and the press that I recommend in the video description. I only recommend you try comic book cleaning and pressing if you are patient and find satisfaction in improving your comic collection and growing your comic book equity!
Hi Paul again a Great Video. My question is how is your video setup? Do you use a phone or a camera and how is the camera setup? Does it hang above your head? Just curious because I’m thinking of doing so insta live and want to have a good setup and yours is perfect imo Thnx and regards Erik Presskammer Germany
Erik I’m actually just shooting everything on an iPhone 12, on an inexpensive iPhone tripod mount. I do have a nice heavy Gitzo tripod (though it’s quite old, I recently purchased a used backup for not that much money off of eBay). I use an app to get the phone perfectly level so I have less distortion in the image. I’m looking forward to upgrading to an iPhone 16 as soon as they drop. I use the iPhone because I use a Mac and iMovie software and it’s all pretty seamless to stay in the iOS ecosystem. Happy to answer any other questions you may have about setup for videography.
Yes. There are several chelating substances that can be used to safely remove those rust stains from the paper. They would require removal of the staples, disassembly of the book and aqueous bath of each page. I opted not to perform those steps with this books because I felt the staples wouldn’t tolerate being opened without breaking, which would then force me to replace them, and because this book has other technical flaws that are going to keep it from truly high grade so I didn’t feel the improvement in grade from the rust stain removal would be worth the equity lost by moving to a conserved grade from Universal. For more info on the process of rust stain removal, check out this video: ruclips.net/user/live8M8lMOKiRvY?si=NKlGg7IrsWZk1Knu
Watching you brush the eraser crumbs off the cover with the back of your fingers made me jump. Should you use a soft brush instead? I am always amazed at how you confidently handle books with your bare hands. Do you ever wear gloves? Thanks for your detailed commentary as you work! Fantastic!
Mickey, thanks for the view, the kind words, and the thoughtful question! This question has been asked several times by viewers, and not always as politely as you raise it here! Actually it turns out that museum professionals and library conservators don't recommend gloves when handling old paper. The official position of the Library of Congress is that clean, dry, hands are the best way to interact with an old book, all things considered. So i never use gloves in my regular interactions with comic books, although there are certain times when it makes sense with certain modern covers that are more plastic than paper and with mold or other contaminants.
As to whether or not it would be better to use a brush or the back of my clean and dry hands to brush away eraser crumbs, i find the brush tends to hold some eraser crumbs and put them back on the book with the subsequent stroke and the back of my hand doesn't (as much). And of course the back of my hand is much faster. So for efficiency's sake (and because i have the confidence that comes from knowing the recommendation of the Library of Congress that my clean and dry hands are OK for handling paper) i tend to use the back of my hands. But i do have a brush and use it on occasion. It's just much slower/less efficient than my hands.
@@DrPaulKosnikthank you for the explanation. I think conservation at your level requires something like the hands of a surgeon. I’ve watched professional art restorers make quick and decisive moves that seem horrifyingly dangerous, but turn out fine every time. I appreciate the exceptional skill it takes to be a top level conservator like yourself.
thanks for all the cleaning tips , Dr. Paul !
My pleasure! Happy you are enjoying the content Rick. 👍🏽
Beautiful colours 😊
They are indeed Johnny!
Another winner.
Thanks!
It's always a pleasure to watch you work, Dr. Paul!
I'd like to urge the community to use the term "specular reflection" instead of "raking light". In optics, there are two main types of reflection: diffuse and specular. Specular reflection is when rays of light bounce off of a smooth surface while obeying the law of reflection (angle of incidence equals angle of reflection). In diffuse reflection, the outgoing rays (from a rougher surface) are almost isotropic. Specular reflection is what most of us use to see warps, dents and gloss loss. It's using the cover like a speculum, or mirror.
"Raking light" implies that the rays of light are nearly tangent to the surface, thus exposing bumps and warps through the shadows that they cast. Specular reflection can be seen with normal (perpendicular) rays if the surface is polished enough. So these are two distinct and useful approaches to comic evaluation and therefore two terms are needed.
Now excuse me while I go annoy a different RUclipsr about the term "Newton's rings" ... 🙂
This is a great point. I used to describe it as “light with a low angle of incidence” but Matt Nelson has popularized the term “raking light” in his book and numerous interviews and videos he’s done to describe the lighting they use at CGC for grading. I adopted the term to match his parlance when describing it, mostly so as to not confuse others and have to answer questions about the differences. I’ve been surprised how many folks struggle with the concept of incident light, and how few can use it effectively to reveal defects in a comic book cover. Appreciate your feedback and I should probably make the distinction between the use of reflection and raking light as you suggest, but may still use CGC’s term as short hand in most instances.
@@DrPaulKosnik Absolutely, at this point it's good communication to use "raking light". But here's the problem: some might be so hung up on a low angle of incidence that they miss the benefits of a high angle of incidence for judging gloss. Low angle may be best for seeing bumps, but high angle is best for judging whether a surface is smooth enough to undergo specular reflection. Even a piece of printer paper will look glossy if held within ~3 degrees of edge-on to the incoming light, but as you tilt it you only see diffuse reflection. So I don't know what we should say except maybe throw in a phrase like "raking light does not have to be raking, just use the surface like a mirror".
Dr. Paul: Thank you for the instructional videos. I wanted to offer some random thoughts on cover cleaning. I have not tried the eraser-shavings method, as from a draftsman's pouch, which you had demonstrated on your early Flash Comics issue, so that video is much-appreciated and something I plan to use. Speaking of draftsmen, I wanted to mention possible use of an aluminum eraser shield. I was not aware that the Pentel brand erasers are less invasive than Staedtler Mars, so I appreciate that info.
More than 15 years ago I shifted my focus from collecting comic books to collections of newspaper comics, along with PS Artbooks collections, DC Archives and the like. The newspaper comic collections are often oblong, with the text blocks' sagging lower fore edges especially prone to dirt transfer from bookshelves. I've used a Staedtler eraser for all these years, with excellent results, to carefully clean the text block edges from general soiling and smudges. For a hard, glossy cover, I use a 3-option approach to cleaning off any foreign matter: first I'll see if it responds to water on a tissue; if not, I try a little Naphtha. If those both fail, I will try a small amount of household cleaner such as Formula 409. In rare cases I may try Isopropyl alcohol as a 4th option. The alcohol often will remove permanent marker, on which the Naphtha (which I far prefer) may be ineffective. I will caution though that the Isopropyl may be too invasive for some plastic-coated surfaces.
My experiences with dust jackets have some things in common with comic covers: decal removal and pressing of indentations. Residue from decals usually (but not always!) poses no problem, as I've used Naphtha on jackets since the 1970s -- keeping in mind a high-gloss jacket is a different animal from the vast majority of comic covers and will easily withstand most any cautious cleaning.
As far as residue on comic covers, on which Naphtha is not an option, I may be alone in the following practice: I like to have some wax paper handy, where I don't want sticky residue to come into contact with anything, so I will cut a small square of the paper to cover the remnants -- buying me time to go back and address the matter later. This practice earned me some good-natured ridicule on the CGC message boards, as I'm replacing one decal with another -- but the wax paper is relatively translucent and I think worth using. One never can predict when residue will prove VERY challenging to deal with; I've had cases where it's taken me the better part of an hour to remove it from a jacket afflicted with a stubborn decal, so having the wax paper buys me the time I sometimes just don't have.
At times I've used a half-inch diameter steel bearing ball on dustjacket indentations and wrinkles, something that's also recommended for comic covers if done correctly with a hard backing. I have an old, small, flat lead window-sash weight for that backing. The final and most pertinent thing I wanted to mention to you concerns DCs from the 1950s and '60s, my longtime interest. I suggest inserting copy paper between the covers and interior first/last pages when cleaning, as the inks of the commonly black & white interior covers are prone to smudging -- and the paper will prevent any transfer of black ink to the interior page. Best wishes for your cleaning and conservation work & videos.
Jim, thank you for the thoughtful and informative comment! A few responses: I don't think a metal eraser shield is generally a great idea, unless you modify them a bit. They are stamped from thin stainless steel stock, and the stamping process leaves a sharp burr on one side. Fine for drafting work, but this burr, if used non-judiciously, will absolutely scratch a glossy cover. I have seen them used successfully for comic book dry cleaning, but i recommend if you want to use one that you deburr first with some 1,000 grit sandpaper or the like to make it safer to use. I also think the Staedler eraser is a fine eraser--i believe they were purchased by Mars and i'm not sure they still make the old compound that was so effective. I have a few old ones lying around that i swear are more effective and more pleasant to use than any eraser you can buy today! I rather like your wax paper idea. I also use a ball bearing on occasion, and have done so on the channel. However, i found these sculptor's tools on Amazon and prefer them because i can pick the exact diameter ball and can apply greater pressure if i need it, so i rarely use the ball bearing anymore. www.amazon.com/dp/B083SPD852?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzlhcc06-20&creativeASIN=B083SPD852&asc_item-id=amzn1.shoppablemedia.v1.21657f0c-e8ff-4759-af30-96da3bf34759&ref_=aip_sf_photo_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin&th=1
How can I create good lighting for restoration and should I buy a press machine for getting rid of creases and folds? Thank you for these great techniques!
Carl thanks for the questions, glad you are enjoying the content! I have Amazon affiliate links to the LED ring light that I use and the press that I recommend in the video description. I only recommend you try comic book cleaning and pressing if you are patient and find satisfaction in improving your comic collection and growing your comic book equity!
Its ok. CGC will see it and still give it a 9.9
Wish me luck!
Hi Paul again a Great Video. My question is how is your video setup? Do you use a phone or a camera and how is the camera setup? Does it hang above your head? Just curious because I’m thinking of doing so insta live and want to have a good setup and yours is perfect imo
Thnx and regards
Erik
Presskammer Germany
Erik I’m actually just shooting everything on an iPhone 12, on an inexpensive iPhone tripod mount. I do have a nice heavy Gitzo tripod (though it’s quite old, I recently purchased a used backup for not that much money off of eBay). I use an app to get the phone perfectly level so I have less distortion in the image. I’m looking forward to upgrading to an iPhone 16 as soon as they drop. I use the iPhone because I use a Mac and iMovie software and it’s all pretty seamless to stay in the iOS ecosystem. Happy to answer any other questions you may have about setup for videography.
Can anything be done for the rust infiltration of the paper by the staple?
Yes. There are several chelating substances that can be used to safely remove those rust stains from the paper. They would require removal of the staples, disassembly of the book and aqueous bath of each page. I opted not to perform those steps with this books because I felt the staples wouldn’t tolerate being opened without breaking, which would then force me to replace them, and because this book has other technical flaws that are going to keep it from truly high grade so I didn’t feel the improvement in grade from the rust stain removal would be worth the equity lost by moving to a conserved grade from Universal. For more info on the process of rust stain removal, check out this video: ruclips.net/user/live8M8lMOKiRvY?si=NKlGg7IrsWZk1Knu
Sad that youre helping to propagate the toxicity of CGC...but good work on the book!
All opinions are welcome here Andrew, though I clearly don’t see it the same way you do.