Thank so much Pete! Really appreciate your support mate, keep an eye out for the giveaway we are going to do once we hit 500 as a way of saying thank you 😁
I've had similar issues in the past, same thing anderson plug connecting my MDC cruiser highside. Turned out to be the earth/ground cable connected to the body work of my vehicle was not sufficient. I ran a new cable back to the negative post of the main battery and fault cleared.
Gday Craig it would have been good to know the voltage at the anderson plug before and after your work. I am having the same issue with a enerdrive dcdc 40 plus charger in my campervan.
Hi, Unfortunately, I didn't take those readings. Upgrading the cable helped, but not entirely. I ended up tracking the major issue to a bad earth connection on the electric trailer brakes. Once I had that sorted, the charger worked as intended. Thanks for watching.
I suspect bad connections somewhere in your setup. The best way to locate a problem is to use an infrared heat sensitive camera to find hot terminals or cables. Anything introducing high resistance into the circuit will get hot.
I run B&S 0 cable to the rear (pos+ only with an earth to the chassis) then B & S 4 to the anderson from a terminal block. max 3% volt drop and I run a 40amp DCDC charger in the camper. 25% is a good improvement but you may also have a voltage regulated alternator which is not ideal if you wanted to achieve max output.
Hey Mike, B&S 0, nice one. The Everest does have a smart alternator but I have an ignition wire connected to the bcdc but maybe it still contributes to the low output? Thanks for your feedback, very helpful.
@@RoaminintheRobbo you can get away with not having an alternator wire, or a simple solution is an alternator diode. Have been running one in my 200 for years now, puts out a healthy 14.4v now
Interesting video, thanks for sharing your experience. My calculations show deminishing returns from 6 to 4B&S cable, but if you're chasing every amp, then why not go big. The additional cost of the cable was quite high when I was looking. I didn't see if you had another video following up on this but I would be interested to know what cable they rain from the front of your trailer back to the DC Charger at the battery. I bet it's not thick enough and you're dropping volts there too. Would love to get an update. Running the 2x 6mm (4.6mm^2) cable like that is kind of messy but it does effectively double the capacity of the wire, so you really get about 9.2mm^2, provided the lengths are the same. But it is ugly and confusing to anyone looking at it. Anyway, love these kinds of videos. Super interesting stuff.
Hey Andrew Thanks for watching. I haven't made an update vid but I have solved the issue. It turned out to be a bad earth from the emergency breaking system. I discovered that the current only fell when the trailer plug was connected. Trial and error narrowed it down to the earth for the electric breaks. from factory the emergency break earth was connected to the first battery in parallel not the second. When I upgraded to lithium I knew that it should have been connected to the second battery but failed to make the change and promptly forgot about it. Once I discovered the issue was the emergency break I knew exactly where to go and it sorted the issue immediately. Silly me right. As far as the the wiring in the trailer they've used 6b&s for everything. Thanks again
@@RoaminintheRobbo yeah I did it with the ranger, put a DCDC charger in and used 5awg cable and congrats on reaching 500 subs! In a week the community Tab will pop up🤙🏽
@@GrabLifeByTheGourlays always something to do isn't when your car is a tour vehicle. Great when you can do it yourself. Thanks legends look forward to joining you on the "tab" soon, super excited to have hit that milestone 😁
I had a similar situation when installing a new power system in my caravan. I use all Victron gear and ran 13mm2 cable from the vehicle battery to an Anderson plug and then through the van to the DCDC unit. I found that I had minimal voltage drop due to the cable guage and initially had high current flow to charge the van batteries, but after a while the current reduced. It had me stumped for a while until one day I felt the DCDC unit and it was quite warm. So my conclusion is that the DCDC units can get hot and will reduce their current flow to ensure they don't overheat. I've see a RUclips video where a guy attaches computer fans to his Victron dcdc unit to keep it cooler and ensure higher current flow. Could this be an issue with your Redarc DCDC?
Hey Mark, Thanks for the feedback. I'll be sure to check that out but I don't think that's my issue, as I also have low current flow when the charger first comes on as well. If it wasn't for having the shunt I'd be blissfully unaware.😁
Yeah the victron DCDC Chargers do have a bit of a reputation for derating when they get hot, they benefit from plenty of ventilation. Perhaps you could mount a 12v computer fan nearby to assist.
They do full 12v installs usually on new fitouts or rebuilds. A simple anderson plug install probably wouldn't be viable for them. But they're always happy to give advice and their products are top notch.👍
Great channel , just subbed to you :)
Thank so much Pete! Really appreciate your support mate, keep an eye out for the giveaway we are going to do once we hit 500 as a way of saying thank you 😁
so you first put the cable in a protective shield before you run it through?
Yes, that's correct! I used corrugated split tubing. It helps prevent damage and ensures the cable stays safe.
I've had similar issues in the past, same thing anderson plug connecting my MDC cruiser highside. Turned out to be the earth/ground cable connected to the body work of my vehicle was not sufficient. I ran a new cable back to the negative post of the main battery and fault cleared.
Thanks for the feedback Peter! Glad you got it sorted, will have to try that and see if it makes any difference. Thanks mate.
Best practice would be to run your earth cable all the way to the battery.
Thanks mate! We have since sold the car and fortunately don't have the same issue on the new car. Great to know though if we encounter it again.
Gday Craig it would have been good to know the voltage at the anderson plug before and after your work. I am having the same issue with a enerdrive dcdc 40 plus charger in my campervan.
Hi,
Unfortunately, I didn't take those readings. Upgrading the cable helped, but not entirely. I ended up tracking the major issue to a bad earth connection on the electric trailer brakes. Once I had that sorted, the charger worked as intended.
Thanks for watching.
Hope ya figure it out Craig
Cheers mate, I finally did! It turned out to be an earth issue with the emergency brake system.
I suspect bad connections somewhere in your setup. The best way to locate a problem is to use an infrared heat sensitive camera to find hot terminals or cables. Anything introducing high resistance into the circuit will get hot.
Thanks for the tip mate, we have now since sold the Everest and have had no more problems on the new car 😊 Thanks for watching and the comment!
wow very interesting
Thank you! 😁
I run B&S 0 cable to the rear (pos+ only with an earth to the chassis) then B & S 4 to the anderson from a terminal block. max 3% volt drop and I run a 40amp DCDC charger in the camper. 25% is a good improvement but you may also have a voltage regulated alternator which is not ideal if you wanted to achieve max output.
Hey Mike,
B&S 0, nice one.
The Everest does have a smart alternator but I have an ignition wire connected to the bcdc but maybe it still contributes to the low output? Thanks for your feedback, very helpful.
@@RoaminintheRobbo you can get away with not having an alternator wire, or a simple solution is an alternator diode. Have been running one in my 200 for years now, puts out a healthy 14.4v now
@@mikefoster7085 thanks for the tip Mike, going to look into this!
Interesting video, thanks for sharing your experience.
My calculations show deminishing returns from 6 to 4B&S cable, but if you're chasing every amp, then why not go big. The additional cost of the cable was quite high when I was looking.
I didn't see if you had another video following up on this but I would be interested to know what cable they rain from the front of your trailer back to the DC Charger at the battery. I bet it's not thick enough and you're dropping volts there too. Would love to get an update.
Running the 2x 6mm (4.6mm^2) cable like that is kind of messy but it does effectively double the capacity of the wire, so you really get about 9.2mm^2, provided the lengths are the same. But it is ugly and confusing to anyone looking at it.
Anyway, love these kinds of videos. Super interesting stuff.
Hey Andrew
Thanks for watching. I haven't made an update vid but I have solved the issue. It turned out to be a bad earth from the emergency breaking system. I discovered that the current only fell when the trailer plug was connected.
Trial and error narrowed it down to the earth for the electric breaks. from factory the emergency break earth was connected to the first battery in parallel not the second. When I upgraded to lithium I knew that it should have been connected to the second battery but failed to make the change and promptly forgot about it.
Once I discovered the issue was the emergency break I knew exactly where to go and it sorted the issue immediately. Silly me right.
As far as the the wiring in the trailer they've used 6b&s for everything.
Thanks again
@@RoaminintheRobbo clever you! Well done fixing it!
@andrewford80 thanks mate!
Probably not the best idea to ground it via the chassis. You are much better off running a negative cable to the battery.
@MattHyne thanks for the tip mate!
Awesome install! Will need to do ours for the Everest at some stage! 👍🏿
Thanks mate! You will have a couple of cars to do it too soon once you decide on your weapon of choice! 😁
@@RoaminintheRobbo yeah I did it with the ranger, put a DCDC charger in and used 5awg cable and congrats on reaching 500 subs! In a week the community Tab will pop up🤙🏽
@@GrabLifeByTheGourlays always something to do isn't when your car is a tour vehicle. Great when you can do it yourself.
Thanks legends look forward to joining you on the "tab" soon, super excited to have hit that milestone 😁
Great video guys definitely agree something is definitely not right there so hopefully you get the bottom of it soon 🙏
Thank you camp team! Yeah something is still not right, we have had some really good tips from viewers which we will have to look into 😁
Love the abbreviated intro. Could maybe add the fire bit as the final shot though ;)
Thanks mate! That is a great idea!! 👍😁
I had a similar situation when installing a new power system in my caravan. I use all Victron gear and ran 13mm2 cable from the vehicle battery to an Anderson plug and then through the van to the DCDC unit. I found that I had minimal voltage drop due to the cable guage and initially had high current flow to charge the van batteries, but after a while the current reduced. It had me stumped for a while until one day I felt the DCDC unit and it was quite warm. So my conclusion is that the DCDC units can get hot and will reduce their current flow to ensure they don't overheat. I've see a RUclips video where a guy attaches computer fans to his Victron dcdc unit to keep it cooler and ensure higher current flow. Could this be an issue with your Redarc DCDC?
Hey Mark,
Thanks for the feedback. I'll be sure to check that out but I don't think that's my issue, as I also have low current flow when the charger first comes on as well. If it wasn't for having the shunt I'd be blissfully unaware.😁
Yeah the victron DCDC Chargers do have a bit of a reputation for derating when they get hot, they benefit from plenty of ventilation. Perhaps you could mount a 12v computer fan nearby to assist.
Do Offroad Living do installations as well?
They do full 12v installs usually on new fitouts or rebuilds. A simple anderson plug install probably wouldn't be viable for them. But they're always happy to give advice and their products are top notch.👍