PRO TIP: Never guess at a corner. I measure 10 inches from one corner, make a mark... Then measure from the other side to that mark. Much more accurate than guessing.
I've always used the +10 ( or + whatever measurement works best). I also use a KM stick if I have to take several measurements against inside corners: KM= Known Measurement. Take a good solid piece of any material that you can easily carry with you and cut to appropriate known measurement (10", 1', 3', etc.), place the KM stick into inside corner and measure to the end of the KM stick from the opposite target, add the the KM stick length and there's your measurement. Especially excellent when working under house/crawl space/in attics/etc. I frequently used KM sticks (PVC pipe pieces) as long as 10' for measuring to distant foundation walls when prepping under-home vapor barriers.
I also think the fat max tapes are the best , they are so much easier to read than most . Black diamond is for truss sheeting , and the red numbers are for stud spacing . I also liked that you added the ruler and yard stick . I find them of great use for small jobs around the shop . Thanks for the video
Black diamonds--->Truss layouts... I never use them laying out trusses (mainly because I'm a custom builder not a track home builder and I very rarely use trusses). It was used to lay out 5 trusses per an 8'span. 96" divided by 5 is 19.somethung... Also that's an awesome trick with the layout in 4 equal parts by using any number divisible of 4 on a diagonal.... When the vid first started and u said 99.9 % of us would learn I thought man I've been swinging a hammer longer than I've been walking with my dad, what's he gonna show. Sure enough u taught me something...
Did this comment post, is anybody out there. Can u read this, because every time I went to sent the comment it said 'There was a problem sending your comment'...So, I'm just curious if it posted. I've only left positive comments in his comment section I wouldn't think he would block me....???
Just sharing. First thing I was taught was measuring ceiling height. If you turn the tape and measure from the floor up along the internal wall corner, you can just slowly extend it to raise it up to the ceiling to get a rough height. This can work for up to 12' ceiling depending on your eyesight though. If you want accurate height just do that firsts and mark a certain height at eye level, then come down from the ceiling so they both meet at the mark and just add them up. I'm sure there are better ways but this has worked for me all along.
A Carpenters Pencil should be sharpened to a flat chisel point so it thin to draw lines but broad to avoid snapping on rough timber that is why it is that shape. I learnt this as an apprentice back in the 50's.
If you can be consistent with your method, go right ahead. If not then it needs correction. Otherwise let it be. I've manged a lot of green horns and it sounds like you are just micro managing. If you are looking at pencil tips im guessing you either arent getting much done or you are just repeating some horseshit from shop class. Do what works for you. Lower your nose.
Check out the Kobalt tape measures that are double sided and have the magnet tip. The one I use also has a built in scribe on the bottom of the hook for marking your material. It's also the kind that you press the button to wind it back up, which I greatly prefer over the lock open kind.
It's amazing, we could have grown up in the same house. I learned and did the same things with tape measures when I was a kid. I still remember my dad teaching me about tapes and rulers and how to treat your tools.
At first I was like- I don't need a tape measure video, but then I thought, Why not, everything else is interesting. So then you were like 99.9% of you will learn something. I thought, I'll probably be .1% LOL- I was wrong! I use powerlocks, so I didn't realize fatmax clipped at the top as well, the way to measure equal parts is really ingenious, I've worked with hundreds of skilled tradesmen and can't believe no one showed this to me. And I knew the diamonds were a different layout, but I didn't realize they were for trusses until I read the comments. Incredible as usual! Thanks! (Btw- you should put together a special dvd explaining all these terms, tips and tricks, and sell it to businesses as a jump start training session for new guys to take home. A quick quiz at the end could be given, and guys would bring the video back with correct answers. Then they could teach the old dogs new tricks;)
Been a carpenter/drywaller/cabinetmaker for 7-8 years, your tip on getting four equal pieces just blew my mind! Black diamonds are for engineers joists. Also drywall tip for you, never put your joint at the end of a header. Its much easier to put a full 4 foot sheet up and cut it out, and then your tape joint is part way into the heaver and will not crack. Thanks another great video.
Black diamonds are for laying out roof trusses, on a scale of 6 diamonds every 8 feet or every 19.2" on center. Old standard was a truss every 24" on center but modern sheet goods aren't up to spanning that much distance. Another good tip: you can use the serrated edge of the hook to score drywall in a pinch (though a knife and T square will give you cleaner results).
+Wranglerstar Not necessarily sharing if there is more than one person working, but it is usually a good idea to compare the different tapes on the same board at the start of a job, to make sure they agree with each other.
Of the hundreds of videos I've watched from you, none have been as eye opening as this. I laughed when you said 99% of us would learn something but I immediately had to put my foot in my mouth. Well done, brother!
Being in the electrical trade for 16 yrs now, I have found the Stanley Fat Max to be the most preferred by the younger generations including myself. The old school journeymen will still use the folding rules as well. I was given one awhile back and keep it in my tools to use around live parts if needed, or to copy an angle of a bend. I would simply fold to the existing angle and use it as a jig of sorts if a protractor is not feasible in the area. I have also been a big fan of the classic Stanley, just plain reliable. I did learn something, the slot for the screw or nail heads.... nice. Cody, I'm a big fan! Great work, and thank you for being an inspiration, and encouragement in an ever darkening world. My wife is a big fan of Mrs. W as well.
I enjoyed this video very much as I use a tape measure every day for work. I've watched almost all of your videos and thank you so much for each and every one. One thing I'd like to comment is the actual tape measure itself. I use a dewalt 25' tape as I found it to be my favorite, having two fat maxes myself. I like the dewalt because it has the easy to read 1/8th measurements throughout the entire tape measure. it's a little smaller than the 25' fat max which is helpful for me as it fits in my tool bags easier. Anyways, the point you make about using your knee and/or foot to extend the tape is a good idea in theory but if your on a ladder and easier way to do that, while keeping both feet on the ladder, is to just grab the tape, while bent, and extend it out with your hands. for example if my reach is 4 feet without bending and I'm measuring a 10' wall I'll just bend the tape in half and pull the tape out with my hands to about 12' so I don't use my feet or knees. nothing against your method once so ever. it's just if I were to do that on a job site, using my foot, it would be deemed unsafe. maybe try that out and let me know what you thing. another little trick is if your using a sharp carpenters pencil to make a strait line, if you measure 1/8th in. less then your measurement, assuming you have a strait starting edge such as a sheet of drywall, you can put the pencil against the end of the tape while the tape. is locked 1/8th in. less than your measurement and run the tape Long the strait edge while making your mark where you need it.
I cant believe i learned something here. I chuckled at the 99% will learn something remark. the divide by 4 trick was really something!!! So Easy and elegant I would have never in a million years thought of that. Excellent Quality Video!!!
That old pesky metric system helps with figuring the mid point measurements! I learned tons of tricks from this vid! Favorite "tips" vid yet! Such an underutilized tool for me! Thank you so much for the content! And your new cabinets look great!!!!
Use that pesky metric system and there is no need for mid point measurements lol Imperial is so out dated and inefficient its unbelievable it was used in the first place
I never had a faster tape to use than my Stanley Lever Lock 16'. But, I have milked my everyday user, a Stanley Power Lock 25' for the last 18 years, using it virtually everyday since then. The numbers and marks are wearing off, and the clip has been bent many times, but it still works!! Yes, I have newer ones, but I always reach for 'old faithful'.
The diamonds, many call them "truss markings". But in Canada, the are joist markings. The 3/4 inch floor sheeting is rated to a maximum of 24inch span. Or, 4 spaces (5 joists) for every sheet. But to shrink it up so it has more tolerance and not at it's "maximum" They use a spacing that is smaller than 24in, but bigger that the old standard, 16inch (6 spaces/7 joists). So they divided the 96inches by 5 spaces, to get a distance of 19.2 inches. Some people erroneously call it "19 1/4". But it's not. It's slightly smaller than that, and the fraction changes at each spacing. So it has to be a decimal number. Framers who have to use them a lot, refer to the system as "nineteen-two's", and sometimes they call out the numbers as "54 diamond" (or what ever number), meaning... mark it at the ninteen-two mark closest to 54.
I run my tape measure almost all the way out , and oil it once or twice a month . I think it helps . I use a light oil like 3n1 or rem oil , on a cloth . Granddaddy always greased the joints in his folding ruler . He used the kind that had a brass slide out scale . He would write his name in the grove for the slide out . I am proud of the old rulers with his name on them. I pull my tape out to about 12 feet or so and write my name on it . Your writing will not ware off as fast . Thanks
The small black diamonds, or triangles (diamonds are more commonly found), on the top scale of the tape measure starting at 19.2 inches are for truss layouts for 8-foot sheet goods. They are also known as the "black truss" markings. They provide a quick visual for the tape user and speed up the measuring process.
Cody, as to the care and feeding of your tapes: I set a lot of concrete forms and my tapes get muddy a lot. I clean them when they get too sticky to self-retract and wipe them down with Pledge. This helps clean and lubricate them, and the anti-dust compounds in the furniture polish help shed dust the next time. I can't say for sure how much better it works than, say, WD40 or something, but when I started doing it, it extended the life of my tape considerably.
I bought probably hands down the best tape measure for me about two weeks ago. Milwaukee 25 footer with a magnetic tip, double sided tape, has an architecual scale both 1/8 and 1/4. Magnetic claw will help since I do a lot of theatre lighting and almost everything I work with is made of steel or iron. The only thing is a magnet will not attach to nonferrous alloys, such as aluminum, so it won't hold onto some lights.
I thought I would'nt learn a thing....you proved me wrong.....measuring the wood in 4 pieces is the best ever......will be using that in the future Thanx
This was a fun video! These tapes are mostly what my family & I use, and have for ages. When my Dad passed away, step-mom let me go in Dad's shop and pick out a keepsake. I chose his 30' Powerlock tape. Something that has always reminded me of him. I will always choose the longer tapes, (even my 100' Spencer logging tape,) so I will always have all that length to run out if I need it. I am willing to put up with a little bother here and there, to have that longer length always with me. Something else tapes once had was conversions or other tables on the underside. One was screw and nail sizes ("d" = "penny" size,) [That's English measure, for you Anglophiles,] or fractional equivalents; circumference, diameter and area of circles; wood screw gauges' hole size for hard & soft wood; lumber true & nominal sizes; standard door sizes, etc. And no metric!!
The tapes are also available with Fractions written on the tape. I love these and threw all my other tapes away once I found the Fraction-marked tapes. I never was any good at figuring out the 5/8 mark or the 3/4, or the 3/8, etc. Now I can see the Fractions right on the tape. Did I say how much I love these Fraction-marked tapes?
I believe that the black diamond signifies the difficulty of the ski trail that I would be on and the number closest to it would indicate the number of times I could expect to fall on my keister! Great video, I actually did learn more than I thought I would. Thank you for your sharing WS!
Not sure if this was already discussed but one more great feature of a tape measure is its ability to add and subtract. Let's say you want to add two numbers....20 and 40. Fold the tape over and place the 20" mark on the 40" mark and then read the end of the tape. It should be on 60". To subtract, fold the tape over placing the end of the tape on the larger value and then read the tape opposite of the smaller value. This tip works for any fractions and is great when a calculator is not handy.
A slide rule.. Our Uncle the Esssntial Craftsman taught me that.. My portuguese boss started yelling at me "ey caraljo wtf are you doing" but it worked like a charm.. How else do you less 23 1/4 from 104 5/8 quickly without being the rain man? (Dont say mark a board at the less value and then measure original length because i get it but its the exact same thing but youbdont always have a board..)
I have so much on my plate lately at home and at school and work... but no matter how stressed i am nothing can put me in a better and more relaxed mood than your awesome videos even though i can't relate to them in the slightest! (seriously not the slightest lol) BUT I LOVE THEM THANKS AGAIN
Thanks a million times for explaining the functionality of the sliding clip. I didn't realize I should compensate for the thickness of the clip while measuring inside corners. I always painstakingly held the clip open to get the measurement. Now, I am not annoyed by this function and can relax more. Thanks. 6:06 And then again at 10:30. You rule, sir. I will definitely use that method.
As always, great video. Also can hang a Fatmax on vertical sheet of drywall as a sort of improvised plumb bob. Not bad for scratching hard to reach areas on your back when you have on several layers of winter clothing too. In our area lots of the framing help are Mexicans and they don't measure in 1/4" or 1/8" etc. they just count the long or short marks so 12 1/4" becomes 12 and one big.
My son gave me an 8 meter Fat Max. He said "it grips on anything" Well he was right about that! It catches and jams on anything, especially roofing netting! Actually, its a great tape. I love the long reach (this explains your comment about it being wide I guess). And its easy to read. We use the metric version here in New Zealand but it is just as clear at the one you show here. Loved the tip about dividing a board into four. I have never seen that before. I'll use it, thanks.
19.2 marks! some engineers use that measurement on TJI floor joist layouts. I have also used it in suspended slab joist layout. I honestly did not think I was going to learn anything from this video. BUT, the diagonal "4-8-12-16" trick is a great idea! Keep up the great work on these videos!
I see some people are saying the 19.2 marks are for truss layout as well. I have actually never seen that in Canada. Is this a common layout in the US? 9.999/10 our truss' are 24" o/c.
As a tin knocker for almost twenty years two tools I always have are my fat max 25' and my Lufkin inside read stick rule (for layout). New Fat Max comes with magnetic tip ,sticks to tin nicely.
0.1% here, and I can thank my dad, uncles and grand fathers for knowing all the pro tips. Lee Valley Tools sell a tape that you can write on the side, and on the tape itself, and it has a built in pencil sharpener. www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=71705&cat=1,43513 Back in the day a lot of carpenters, especially cabinet or furniture makers did not use a tape/ruler they used what is known as a Story Stick or Storey Pole. It was a piece of thin, straight wood that you would mark the various dimensions onto, no need for fractions and numbers, just mark the story stick, that is how long it is. They would keep the story sticks for say a desk, and if they want to make another, they have all the dimensions on the story sticks. It is a very useful technique. www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/story-sticks Domo
love the divide by 4 trick was great I use a 3metre tape all the time as I am a plumber and it fits nice in my work trousers just ordered a Milwaukee 10meter looks nice will find out great channel thanks for the video zuseify from Cornwall in the uk
The black diamonds are locations for stud center locations in common buildings for proper spacing. (I think) Not sure I picked up stuff but the fact 30s don't last is good to know. Bought my fat max in middle school, still have it after college and love it!!! Had a pocket 12 for measuring trunk spaces when I was a loader for lowes, that was the best tool for the job since it was tiny but 16 and 25 are handy indeed.
All I use are Stanleys. I use the plain 25 ft. 30 ft was to heavy, Fat Max's were to bulky. I carry a tape everyday. I have 6,8 12,16 and 25 s. I don't use but 1 tape measure 99% of the time. Just like the problem you and Mrs W ran into, I use the same tape to measure as I do to cut. 2 different tapes 2 different measurements most of the time. Just a habit of mine. I have a Stanley I have been carrying for 6 years and still accurate. Just recently bought a new one for a couple more years. The tip on dividing a piece was one that I was shown 30 years ago and forgot how he explained it, thanks for refreshing my memory.
Mind blown! I can't tell you how much time I've spent trying to figure out equal cuts or fractional cuts. Thank you so much for this tip!! As for the black diamonds I have no idea!
I love the Stanley fatmax I have a 16' 25' and a 30' I used during my framing days. However I have recently switched to the Milwaukee tape I find it to be far more versatile. If you are able to look at one next time your at your local lumberyard you may change your mind on your favorite tape.
there are 3 layout marks on a good quality tape measure. 12",16", and 19 3/16 it is used for layout on structured l lumber. that is wider than a standard joist. you can span farther than a standard lumber which allows for two things you do not need to have as many joist and you can don't have to support it in the middle with a post and beam. love your channel.
I work as a general carpenter and my favourite tape has to be the komelon stainless steel gripper. It can be used in the rain dropped in a bucket of water etc and it doesn't rust/seize most tape last me 3-4 month but they have always lasted at least a year. The blade isn't too wide and hard to get into corners, they arn't the flashiest and don't have the longest standout but they just work. Where I live i'd say they would be more than 50% of the tape market with contractors
As other have said when I was 12, I was helping a joiner build my dads garage first of all he wound me up saying he couldn't tell me as it was a secret only a joiner could know, and after he taught me how to cut properly and do all the cleaning up he sat down and told me its all to do with ply and sheet wood being 8 feet in length and taught me a few other tricks .
That diamond lets you use one less floor joist or rafter in an a foot span. Still strong but saves money when used on a big project. Great channel. Keep it up.
They used to make a rubber cover for the stanly lever lock. It saves the case from falls. I still have one that has probably been used on 25 or so tapes . Was an electrician for 20 years doing commercial work , usually 30/40' high. Dropped a lot of tapes but never broke a case that had he rubber cover on it. I also always used a 16' tape for bending pipe, because EMT comes in 10' lengths no need to carry the 30' if ya don't need it great vid I did learn the trick about ripping wood into equal lengths.Thanks for the tip.
learned a lot, the center measure when u bent the tape, dividing the board into 4 equal parts (love that), but the main thing I learned is that I really need a stanley 25' fat max tape (love all those features, especially the top grabber)
I've worked using tapes for more than 50 years and didnt learn the dividing trick.thank you.Also I'd like to ad the Stanley 16' tape ,on the other side from the measurements is A lot of useful builders information as decimal eq. ,nail & wood screw specs & other handy information.
Thought I knew all you would mention, but the equal parts trick was new to me, great video. FatMax is all I use, went through many others before understanding there were none better.
metric lay out is the diamond system though some use it for rafter spacing so as to skimp on the wood strength integrity of a shed but it also allows for an 8 foot sheet goods like plywood osb or other types of any 8 foot to break evenly on the spacing of it...but unfortunately osb sheating only has thier lines on it at 12,16,& 24" centers so youll have to chalk line the difference if your going with the diamond setting layout. you can also use it for a stud layout as well. or anything that will break sheeting on the 8' mark.
I have used tape measures for probably, more than 60 years. I helped dad make things in the 50's and still using one quit often today. I do woodworking and have yet to measure over that time over 12' of anything. I know that people use the longer length, but why but one that you don't need. If your like me, the Stanley is a great product, but get the one that meets your needs, they come in 10"which I have a couple and also a couple `12' ones too. I do have a 15' that I seldom use.
Not to long ago I bought this old lufkin tape measure from an antique store. It's leather with stitching on the sides and a canvas like material as the measuring tape. It has this little handle on the side that flips out and you spin to wind it back up
I guess I fall into the .01%. I've been a carpenter for 28 years. I even know what the black diamond is for. Having patted myself on the back, I say all that to say you are spot on! I primarily do interior finish work these days and prefer the Stanley classic 25'. I have heard that the carpenter pencils are made flat so if you lay them down or drop them they don't roll away.
I used to use a fatmax myself, but switched a couple years ago to a Milwaukee. it has a lifetime warranty, seems to hold up better and is about the same price. I have seen people use the serrations on the tab for making a mark when you don't have a pencil, is that what it's for?
Finding the center of a fraction is easily done in your head, especially with common fractions of an inch in carpentry. Just double the bottom number. Center of 3/8 is 3/16. Center of 11/16 is 11/32 and so on. So finding centre if say 67-5/8 is 33-1/2+5/16=33-13/16". That may seem complicated but when your tape is in front of you just work it out from the largest number down. Try it a few times, it's really quite easy.
I'm not sure if this was mentioned in the comments already; but, the serrated tip is used for making marks/indentations, into soft materials. Examples include: drywall, soft-wood lumber and foam-board insulation, to name a few. Great video!
My newest tape is a FastCap PSSR16, reverse measuring tape. (I bought mine on Amazon, $7.99!) When doing layout, I prefer this design, so both sides, are right side up,so to speak. It comes with a rubber cushion to keep it from sliding when doing layout, it has a surface you can write your measurements on and wipe off, and when your pencil gets dull (#2 size) it has a built in sharpener. Fractions are also marked to the 16th. I've only had it a couple of weeks, but so far, it's my go to. I also have the Stanley Powerlock, Fat Max, and a Craftsman Diehard 25' that has been great to use for the last 20 yrs, but the spring is getting a little weaker, and the "automatic brake" is starting to slip a little. It should be one of the Lifetime Warranty items, I should look into that. lol
I have a Craftsman 8m/26ft tape that shows both metric and inches. It is great for when you are purchasing something on-line and description are metric, you can quickly cross reference size for your needs!
great video..i should i say i'm quite the late bloomer and have been somewhat unsatisfied with myself spending more time on hitting the books for a medical career than getting my hands dirty. looking forward to watching your videos. good luck in Texas..:)
@ Wranglerstar when I came into this video and you said we would all learn a thing or two new about a tape measure I said to myself yeah right ! what Is there to know about a tape measure apart from it measuring things but damb everything you said in the video I couldn't believe! I wish I knew them before now. Great video thank you for sharing
Is the 19 inch measurement layout that used to be used instead of 16 in layout some plans will still call for this to be better than 16 but not as far out as 24
two tricks that I find are handy are picking something up from a scaffold with the hook at the end of the tape or laying out cuts on something by holding your finger at the right measure and then holding a pencil against the hook to mark out straight lines without a chalk line or straight edge. it's kind of hard to explain but I can do it without even thinking at this point
i always heard the black diamond was for winter load trusses or any trusses that would be experiencing large unintentional load so it can bare more weight then traditional 24" truss layout
some useful tips there. a few tool vids back you showed a long handled plane and said you would tell what it was used for in the next vid did I miss that vid?
My Dad all way used the folding wood ruler! (Still have one of his around here) He was an electrician! Don't want a metal tape working with power. Yes he was very careful. But others may not be! Yes! I like the 25 wide tape. Yes! I work alone a lot! I'm no carpenter! Something has all ways stumped me. Maybe you can answer a question that comes up a lot. I cut a board two or three time and it still to short!!! LOL Thanks for a great video!
will be using the angle trick to divide a board evenly from now on thanks. Even the videos that I fell I have solid knowledge on you still seem to find something to learn
If you can get your hands on one i would definitely suggest a komelon tape. I use it every day, it is an auto lock the tape on it is very durable, the case is durable i drop them all the time. plus it has the benefits of the stanley with large numbers and measurements on both sides of the tape with a nice hook for lumber and piper work.
No idea on the black diamonds but I am sure reading the comments will enlighten me. Regarding the little V mark, I also do that but I "tick" the side of the V onto the waste side so not only does it show me exactly where I measured but also what side of the line to cut to and what is waste.
The black diamond is used for quick truss marking in metric layouts. 5 trusses per 8' sheet good makes each diamond spaced out at 19.2" Some tapes (most?) have 16" markings in read for 16" stud centers, again, used for quick identification.
In my opinion after using and going through 100's of tapes the best Measuring tapes are Milwaukee 16 and 25 foot tapes definitely recommend trying them out.
I have a measuring device that is electronic, you place the back side of it against one side of an area you want to measure such as a wall, press the button and it will make a clicking sound, the sound travels across the room bounces back from opposite wall and the unit "hears" the reflected clicking sound and will display the distance, example 12.7 feet. which equates to slightly less than 12 feet-81/2 inches. Using a tape measure to check to see if it was accurate, it was exactly as the readout indicated. The unit will measure from 2 foot to 100 feet if being outside, if inside a building it will measure up to 200 feet distance
The black diamond is for truss layout. The fat max 25 foot is my favorite tape. I have a second job install shelf genie pull out drawers and we use only millimeter tapes, we can make our drawers to very close tolerances, I still prefer the fractional measuring.
Hey Cody I love the channel. We live here in Idaho and have a small piece of land. My wife and I home school and I work as an ER nurse. land is not much yet, but is home and ours. I have learned so much from the channel. I am restoring old hand tool and I have my dads wood shop from the 60's when he got out of the Marine Corps and Viet Nam. They are old Rockwell tools and work really well. I have made some of the projects you show on the channel and have had a lot of fun. My brother is a timber faller in Hood River area and contract fire faller in the summer. They have a small homestead and also live the lifestyle like you guys. Hey a lot of words. but what I was wondering is do you sell the carpenters pencils with your makers mark on them. Thanks so much
very interested in finding out about those black pyramids since I am a beginner carpenter and any tip to impress the boss would be helpful. thank you for this very informative video keep them coming!
great and very informative as always Cody thanks. have found parts for your stanley 71 in My late father's junk box if you want them just need po box #.
My father had a special tape measure that had a sort of individual tape going out on the other sidg so you could measure corners. Really neat!! e of the body. It was attached directly to the body and a noth going up it was holding it in place. So you could easily unhook it and the tape itself had special markin
i really like Sterrett and i also like the double side tape which benefits the overhead work, i also have them in metric and standard, ( i hate the tapes that try and use both simultaneously) and lastly i also have the tape where it shows the half of each measure under each increment. and as a side note the tapes with magnetic tips can be handy for 2 purposes 1 picking up small metal items like a punch or something, and lastly the clip on Sterrett and also the Craftsman tapes ive always had good luck with
Loved the tip where you angle the tape measure to a place where it's divisible by 4 and then mark the board. So simple and never would have thought of it! I want a tape measure that has fractions marked. I have difficulty distinguishing which little line because of my astigmatism in my vision. The astigmatism causes sort of a ghost image and the lines overlap. Can you recommend a tape measure with fractions? Thanks!
Fun fact; the oldie ruler is called a Duimstok (Thumbstick) in Dutch :) Another great video Cody. Going to watch the Biblestudy tonight with some hot cocoa :) . Have a great weekend ~!
I picked up a great little quality 16 footer at walmart for less then 5$! Its made by Komelon and although I hate everything that walmart stands for with all the chinese crap they sell, I just had to have it! Its small, and easy to read and has an automatic lock! the coated blade feels nice and even has fractional divisions! Handy little tape to just throw in your car's toolbox (which everybody SHOULD have) or anywhere you might need to bust out some measurements. Its small enough to fit in a pocket but has a clip as well. Perfect for trips to the hardware store. For precise everyday tasks I use a Starrett 6" scale with 10ths and 50th divisions. I would like it to have metric on the back but I haven't found one like that yet. I like all the variations in modern tapes, The variations from milwakee and DeWalt look promising. I also have a very handy tape that has a regular scale on one half and a half scale on the bottom to find the center on anything quick and easy without the bending technique although that is a great tip!. Ive also seen Diameter scales on the back of some tapes for measuring round things or belts. I'm a machinist so measurement is a big deal in my world.
Working in roofing and construction. I've found the fatmax 25 foot to b a great tape, that being said I also keep a 40 foot tape with me it dose not get used a lot but it come in handy with longer measurements. back when I first started the only tape we used was the 30 or 35 foot tape. I replaces my broken 30 foot with a 25 so i could find mine quickly and it was smaller and lighter, all the other people started liking it for those reasons they replaced their tapes with a 25 foot tape and now i cant seem to find any tapes again. except for my 40 foot tape
Measurement is 19 and 3/16". Purpose is for laying out engineered lumber joists and beams. Engineers will sometimes call for engineered joists or lvl material to be spaced larger like that because the material can hold greater live and dead loads then traditional dimensional lumber.
PRO TIP: Never guess at a corner. I measure 10 inches from one corner, make a mark... Then measure from the other side to that mark. Much more accurate than guessing.
Well then obviously add ten to the measurement.
+Logan Wyatt Thanks for the tip :)
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing. Cheers
+Logan Wyatt Depends what you're doing. If you're installing drywall, then its ok to guess.
I've always used the +10 ( or + whatever measurement works best).
I also use a KM stick if I have to take several measurements against inside corners: KM= Known Measurement. Take a good solid piece of any material that you can easily carry with you and cut to appropriate known measurement (10", 1', 3', etc.), place the KM stick into inside corner and measure to the end of the KM stick from the opposite target, add the the KM stick length and there's your measurement.
Especially excellent when working under house/crawl space/in attics/etc. I frequently used KM sticks (PVC pipe pieces) as long as 10' for measuring to distant foundation walls when prepping under-home vapor barriers.
This is what my ilfe has become, watching a man see how far he can extend a tape measure.
jackfordmac this may be a little late but this comment made me laugh, like.... hard xD hahahahaha
You and me both, brother!
As a life long construction worker, its a past time of mine too...
I also think the fat max tapes are the best , they
are so much easier to read than most . Black diamond is for truss sheeting , and the red numbers are for stud spacing . I also liked that you added the ruler and yard stick . I find them of great use for small jobs around the shop . Thanks for the video
Black diamonds--->Truss layouts... I never use them laying out trusses (mainly because I'm a custom builder not a track home builder and I very rarely use trusses). It was used to lay out 5 trusses per an 8'span. 96" divided by 5 is 19.somethung...
Also that's an awesome trick with the layout in 4 equal parts by using any number divisible of 4 on a diagonal.... When the vid first started and u said 99.9 % of us would learn I thought man I've been swinging a hammer longer than I've been walking with my dad, what's he gonna show. Sure enough u taught me something...
Did this comment post, is anybody out there. Can u read this, because every time I went to sent the comment it said 'There was a problem sending your comment'...So, I'm just curious if it posted. I've only left positive comments in his comment section I wouldn't think he would block me....???
+Joshua Anthony Nope, everything seems to be fine :)
+Joshua Anthony GO PANTHERS!!! none of our guys will get to go to the probowl, what a shame!! LOL
+richard rhodes...yes, such a shame...lol
was that an ass whippin? not sure,,,
Just sharing. First thing I was taught was measuring ceiling height. If you turn the tape and measure from the floor up along the internal wall corner, you can just slowly extend it to raise it up to the ceiling to get a rough height. This can work for up to 12' ceiling depending on your eyesight though. If you want accurate height just do that firsts and mark a certain height at eye level, then come down from the ceiling so they both meet at the mark and just add them up. I'm sure there are better ways but this has worked for me all along.
A Carpenters Pencil should be sharpened to a flat chisel point so it thin to draw lines but broad to avoid snapping on rough timber that is why it is that shape. I learnt this as an apprentice back in the 50's.
If you can be consistent with your method, go right ahead. If not then it needs correction. Otherwise let it be. I've manged a lot of green horns and it sounds like you are just micro managing. If you are looking at pencil tips im guessing you either arent getting much done or you are just repeating some horseshit from shop class. Do what works for you. Lower your nose.
You are correct, Mythbusters did a program on that. 14 to 1 before sharpening...something like that.
You are not correct and out of line sir.
Check out the Kobalt tape measures that are double sided and have the magnet tip. The one I use also has a built in scribe on the bottom of the hook for marking your material. It's also the kind that you press the button to wind it back up, which I greatly prefer over the lock open kind.
It's amazing, we could have grown up in the same house. I learned and did the same things with tape measures when I was a kid. I still remember my dad teaching me about tapes and rulers and how to treat your tools.
At first I was like- I don't need a tape measure video, but then I thought, Why not, everything else is interesting. So then you were like 99.9% of you will learn something. I thought, I'll probably be .1% LOL- I was wrong! I use powerlocks, so I didn't realize fatmax clipped at the top as well, the way to measure equal parts is really ingenious, I've worked with hundreds of skilled tradesmen and can't believe no one showed this to me. And I knew the diamonds were a different layout, but I didn't realize they were for trusses until I read the comments. Incredible as usual! Thanks! (Btw- you should put together a special dvd explaining all these terms, tips and tricks, and sell it to businesses as a jump start training session for new guys to take home. A quick quiz at the end could be given, and guys would bring the video back with correct answers. Then they could teach the old dogs new tricks;)
Been a carpenter/drywaller/cabinetmaker for 7-8 years, your tip on getting four equal pieces just blew my mind! Black diamonds are for engineers joists. Also drywall tip for you, never put your joint at the end of a header. Its much easier to put a full 4 foot sheet up and cut it out, and then your tape joint is part way into the heaver and will not crack. Thanks another great video.
Black diamonds are for laying out roof trusses, on a scale of 6 diamonds every 8 feet or every 19.2" on center. Old standard was a truss every 24" on center but modern sheet goods aren't up to spanning that much distance.
Another good tip: you can use the serrated edge of the hook to score drywall in a pinch (though a knife and T square will give you cleaner results).
Also, it's a good idea to stick with ONE tape during a job. As you and Mrs. W found out, not all tapes measure the same...
+MukYJ So share a tape? That doesn't work very well. Might work better....MrsW
+Wranglerstar Not necessarily sharing if there is more than one person working, but it is usually a good idea to compare the different tapes on the same board at the start of a job, to make sure they agree with each other.
+MukYJ That would have been smart.
+MukYJ
I use a swivel knife for scoring.
Of the hundreds of videos I've watched from you, none have been as eye opening as this. I laughed when you said 99% of us would learn something but I immediately had to put my foot in my mouth. Well done, brother!
+James Droddy Thank you
Being in the electrical trade for 16 yrs now, I have found the Stanley Fat Max to be the most preferred by the younger generations including myself. The old school journeymen will still use the folding rules as well. I was given one awhile back and keep it in my tools to use around live parts if needed, or to copy an angle of a bend. I would simply fold to the existing angle and use it as a jig of sorts if a protractor is not feasible in the area. I have also been a big fan of the classic Stanley, just plain reliable. I did learn something, the slot for the screw or nail heads.... nice. Cody, I'm a big fan! Great work, and thank you for being an inspiration, and encouragement in an ever darkening world. My wife is a big fan of Mrs. W as well.
I enjoyed this video very much as I use a tape measure every day for work. I've watched almost all of your videos and thank you so much for each and every one. One thing I'd like to comment is the actual tape measure itself. I use a dewalt 25' tape as I found it to be my favorite, having two fat maxes myself. I like the dewalt because it has the easy to read 1/8th measurements throughout the entire tape measure. it's a little smaller than the 25' fat max which is helpful for me as it fits in my tool bags easier. Anyways, the point you make about using your knee and/or foot to extend the tape is a good idea in theory but if your on a ladder and easier way to do that, while keeping both feet on the ladder, is to just grab the tape, while bent, and extend it out with your hands. for example if my reach is 4 feet without bending and I'm measuring a 10' wall I'll just bend the tape in half and pull the tape out with my hands to about 12' so I don't use my feet or knees. nothing against your method once so ever. it's just if I were to do that on a job site, using my foot, it would be deemed unsafe. maybe try that out and let me know what you thing. another little trick is if your using a sharp carpenters pencil to make a strait line, if you measure 1/8th in. less then your measurement, assuming you have a strait starting edge such as a sheet of drywall, you can put the pencil against the end of the tape while the tape. is locked 1/8th in. less than your measurement and run the tape Long the strait edge while making your mark where you need it.
you probably know all that though haha great work regardless! keep it up and I look forward to future videos!
I've been doing remodeling and construction for some time now and... MIND BLOWN!! Thanks for another great video Cody!
I cant believe i learned something here. I chuckled at the 99% will learn something remark. the divide by 4 trick was really something!!! So Easy and elegant I would have never in a million years thought of that. Excellent Quality Video!!!
+Michael Biasiello thanks! I think we've had 2 who said they haven't learned anything....
I'm a woodworker and use tape measure all the time, but I still learned a few things! great video buddy!
That old pesky metric system helps with figuring the mid point measurements!
I learned tons of tricks from this vid! Favorite "tips" vid yet! Such an underutilized tool for me!
Thank you so much for the content!
And your new cabinets look great!!!!
Use that pesky metric system and there is no need for mid point measurements lol Imperial is so out dated and inefficient its unbelievable it was used in the first place
I never had a faster tape to use than my Stanley Lever Lock 16'. But, I have milked my everyday user, a Stanley Power Lock 25' for the last 18 years, using it virtually everyday since then. The numbers and marks are wearing off, and the clip has been bent many times, but it still works!! Yes, I have newer ones, but I always reach for 'old faithful'.
+tanglediver Oh, black diamonds are trails for EXPERTS ONLY!!
The diamonds, many call them "truss markings". But in Canada, the are joist markings. The 3/4 inch floor sheeting is rated to a maximum of 24inch span. Or, 4 spaces (5 joists) for every sheet. But to shrink it up so it has more tolerance and not at it's "maximum" They use a spacing that is smaller than 24in, but bigger that the old standard, 16inch (6 spaces/7 joists). So they divided the 96inches by 5 spaces, to get a distance of 19.2 inches. Some people erroneously call it "19 1/4". But it's not. It's slightly smaller than that, and the fraction changes at each spacing. So it has to be a decimal number. Framers who have to use them a lot, refer to the system as "nineteen-two's", and sometimes they call out the numbers as "54 diamond" (or what ever number), meaning... mark it at the ninteen-two mark closest to 54.
the red diamond is for joist black is for truss
I run my tape measure almost all the way out , and oil it once or twice a month . I think it helps . I use a light oil like 3n1 or rem oil , on a cloth . Granddaddy always greased the joints in his folding ruler . He used the kind that had a brass slide out scale . He would write his name in the grove for the slide out . I am proud of the old rulers with his name on them. I pull my tape out to about 12 feet or so and write my name on it . Your writing will not ware off as fast . Thanks
The small black diamonds, or triangles (diamonds are more commonly found), on the top scale of the tape measure starting at 19.2 inches are for truss layouts for 8-foot sheet goods. They are also known as the "black truss" markings. They provide a quick visual for the tape user and speed up the measuring process.
Cody, as to the care and feeding of your tapes: I set a lot of concrete forms and my tapes get muddy a lot. I clean them when they get too sticky to self-retract and wipe them down with Pledge. This helps clean and lubricate them, and the anti-dust compounds in the furniture polish help shed dust the next time. I can't say for sure how much better it works than, say, WD40 or something, but when I started doing it, it extended the life of my tape considerably.
I bought probably hands down the best tape measure for me about two weeks ago. Milwaukee 25 footer with a magnetic tip, double sided tape, has an architecual scale both 1/8 and 1/4. Magnetic claw will help since I do a lot of theatre lighting and almost everything I work with is made of steel or iron. The only thing is a magnet will not attach to nonferrous alloys, such as aluminum, so it won't hold onto some lights.
I thought I would'nt learn a thing....you proved me wrong.....measuring the wood in 4 pieces is the best ever......will be using that in the future Thanx
This was a fun video! These tapes are mostly what my family & I use, and have for ages. When my Dad passed away, step-mom let me go in Dad's shop and pick out a keepsake. I chose his 30' Powerlock tape. Something that has always reminded me of him. I will always choose the longer tapes, (even my 100' Spencer logging tape,) so I will always have all that length to run out if I need it. I am willing to put up with a little bother here and there, to have that longer length always with me.
Something else tapes once had was conversions or other tables on the underside. One was screw and nail sizes ("d" = "penny" size,) [That's English measure, for you Anglophiles,] or fractional equivalents; circumference, diameter and area of circles; wood screw gauges' hole size for hard & soft wood; lumber true & nominal sizes; standard door sizes, etc. And no metric!!
I didn’t think I was going to learn anything but that angled trick to split into even pieces was pretty neat.
The tapes are also available with Fractions written on the tape. I love these and threw all my other tapes away once I found the Fraction-marked tapes. I never was any good at figuring out the 5/8 mark or the 3/4, or the 3/8, etc. Now I can see the Fractions right on the tape. Did I say how much I love these Fraction-marked tapes?
I believe that the black diamond signifies the difficulty of the ski trail that I would be on and the number closest to it would indicate the number of times I could expect to fall on my keister! Great video, I actually did learn more than I thought I would. Thank you for your sharing WS!
Cody, that tip about cutting the board into 4 equal pieces truly was mind blowing. Thanks so much!
Not sure if this was already discussed but one more great feature of a tape measure is its ability to add and subtract.
Let's say you want to add two numbers....20 and 40. Fold the tape over and place the 20" mark on the 40" mark and then read the end of the tape. It should be on 60".
To subtract, fold the tape over placing the end of the tape on the larger value and then read the tape opposite of the smaller value.
This tip works for any fractions and is great when a calculator is not handy.
A slide rule.. Our Uncle the Esssntial Craftsman taught me that..
My portuguese boss started yelling at me "ey caraljo wtf are you doing" but it worked like a charm.. How else do you less 23 1/4 from 104 5/8 quickly without being the rain man?
(Dont say mark a board at the less value and then measure original length because i get it but its the exact same thing but youbdont always have a board..)
I have so much on my plate lately at home and at school and work... but no matter how stressed i am nothing can put me in a better and more relaxed mood than your awesome videos even though i can't relate to them in the slightest! (seriously not the slightest lol) BUT I LOVE THEM THANKS AGAIN
+chonchin516 Thanks. Glad to help. Love that you can't relate in the slightest - what does that mean exactly? mrsW
+Wranglerstar like I never touch a tape measure , ax , amvel, saws, etc... So I don't relate to the videos. They don't help me directly you know?
+chonchin516 Well - glad they help you indirectly.
All men with beautiful harmonic voices should teach. Lovely voice and teaching skills Sir.
Thanks a million times for explaining the functionality of the sliding clip. I didn't realize I should compensate for the thickness of the clip while measuring inside corners. I always painstakingly held the clip open to get the measurement. Now, I am not annoyed by this function and can relax more. Thanks.
6:06
And then again at 10:30. You rule, sir. I will definitely use that method.
As always, great video. Also can hang a Fatmax on vertical sheet of drywall as a sort of improvised plumb bob. Not bad for scratching hard to reach areas on your back when you have on several layers of winter clothing too. In our area lots of the framing help are Mexicans and they don't measure in 1/4" or 1/8" etc. they just count the long or short marks so 12 1/4" becomes 12 and one big.
My son gave me an 8 meter Fat Max. He said "it grips on anything" Well he was right about that! It catches and jams on anything, especially roofing netting! Actually, its a great tape. I love the long reach (this explains your comment about it being wide I guess). And its easy to read. We use the metric version here in New Zealand but it is just as clear at the one you show here. Loved the tip about dividing a board into four. I have never seen that before. I'll use it, thanks.
19.2 marks! some engineers use that measurement on TJI floor joist layouts. I have also used it in suspended slab joist layout.
I honestly did not think I was going to learn anything from this video. BUT, the diagonal "4-8-12-16" trick is a great idea!
Keep up the great work on these videos!
I see some people are saying the 19.2 marks are for truss layout as well. I have actually never seen that in Canada. Is this a common layout in the US? 9.999/10 our truss' are 24" o/c.
As a tin knocker for almost twenty years two tools I always have are my fat max 25' and my Lufkin inside read stick rule (for layout). New Fat Max comes with magnetic tip ,sticks to tin nicely.
0.1% here, and I can thank my dad, uncles and grand fathers for knowing all the pro tips.
Lee Valley Tools sell a tape that you can write on the side, and on the tape itself, and it has a built in pencil sharpener.
www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=71705&cat=1,43513
Back in the day a lot of carpenters, especially cabinet or furniture makers did not use a tape/ruler they used what is known as a Story Stick or Storey Pole. It was a piece of thin, straight wood that you would mark the various dimensions onto, no need for fractions and numbers, just mark the story stick, that is how long it is. They would keep the story sticks for say a desk, and if they want to make another, they have all the dimensions on the story sticks. It is a very useful technique.
www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/story-sticks
Domo
When you have time could you please do a full shop tour?
love the divide by 4 trick was great I use a 3metre tape all the time as I am a plumber and it fits nice in my work trousers just ordered a Milwaukee 10meter looks nice will find out great channel thanks for the video zuseify from Cornwall in the uk
The black diamonds are locations for stud center locations in common buildings for proper spacing. (I think) Not sure I picked up stuff but the fact 30s don't last is good to know. Bought my fat max in middle school, still have it after college and love it!!! Had a pocket 12 for measuring trunk spaces when I was a loader for lowes, that was the best tool for the job since it was tiny but 16 and 25 are handy indeed.
All I use are Stanleys. I use the plain 25 ft. 30 ft was to heavy, Fat Max's were to bulky. I carry a tape everyday. I have 6,8 12,16 and 25 s. I don't use but 1 tape measure 99% of the time. Just like the problem you and Mrs W ran into, I use the same tape to measure as I do to cut. 2 different tapes 2 different measurements most of the time. Just a habit of mine. I have a Stanley I have been carrying for 6 years and still accurate. Just recently bought a new one for a couple more years. The tip on dividing a piece was one that I was shown 30 years ago and forgot how he explained it, thanks for refreshing my memory.
Mind blown! I can't tell you how much time I've spent trying to figure out equal cuts or fractional cuts. Thank you so much for this tip!! As for the black diamonds I have no idea!
+WhirldWorks Glad to help.
I love the Stanley fatmax I have a 16' 25' and a 30' I used during my framing days. However I have recently switched to the Milwaukee tape I find it to be far more versatile. If you are able to look at one next time your at your local lumberyard you may change your mind on your favorite tape.
Folding the tape measure in half is very useful when hanging pictures on the center of a wall (Great time saver!)
there are 3 layout marks on a good quality tape measure. 12",16", and 19 3/16 it is used for layout on structured l lumber. that is wider than a standard joist. you can span farther than a standard lumber which allows for two things you do not need to have as many joist and you can don't have to support it in the middle with a post and beam. love your channel.
I work as a general carpenter and my favourite tape has to be the komelon stainless steel gripper. It can be used in the rain dropped in a bucket of water etc and it doesn't rust/seize most tape last me 3-4 month but they have always lasted at least a year. The blade isn't too wide and hard to get into corners, they arn't the flashiest and don't have the longest standout but they just work. Where I live i'd say they would be more than 50% of the tape market with contractors
As other have said when I was 12, I was helping a joiner build my dads garage first of all he wound me up saying he couldn't tell me as it was a secret only a joiner could know, and after he taught me how to cut properly and do all the cleaning up he sat down and told me its all to do with ply and sheet wood being 8 feet in length and taught me a few other tricks .
That diamond lets you use one less floor joist or rafter in an a foot span. Still strong but saves money when used on a big project.
Great channel. Keep it up.
They used to make a rubber cover for the stanly lever lock. It saves the case from falls. I still have one that has probably been used on 25 or so tapes . Was an electrician for 20 years doing commercial work , usually 30/40' high. Dropped a lot of tapes but never broke a case that had he rubber cover on it. I also always used a 16' tape for bending pipe, because EMT comes in 10' lengths no need to carry the 30' if ya don't need it great vid I did learn the trick about ripping wood into equal lengths.Thanks for the tip.
learned a lot, the center measure when u bent the tape, dividing the board into 4 equal parts (love that), but the main thing I learned is that I really need a stanley 25' fat max tape (love all those features, especially the top grabber)
I've worked using tapes for more than 50 years and didnt learn the dividing trick.thank you.Also I'd like to ad the Stanley 16' tape ,on the other side from the measurements is A lot of useful builders information as decimal eq. ,nail & wood screw specs & other handy information.
Thought I knew all you would mention, but the equal parts trick was new to me, great video. FatMax is all I use, went through many others before understanding there were none better.
metric lay out is the diamond system though some use it for rafter spacing so as to skimp on the wood strength integrity of a shed but it also allows for an 8 foot sheet goods like plywood osb or other types of any 8 foot to break evenly on the spacing of it...but unfortunately osb sheating only has thier lines on it at 12,16,& 24" centers so youll have to chalk line the difference if your going with the diamond setting layout. you can also use it for a stud layout as well. or anything that will break sheeting on the 8' mark.
I have used tape measures for probably, more than 60 years. I helped dad make things in the 50's and still using one quit often today.
I do woodworking and have yet to measure over that time over 12' of anything.
I know that people use the longer length, but why but one that you don't need. If your like me, the Stanley is a great product, but get the one that meets your needs, they come in 10"which I have a couple and also a couple `12' ones too. I do have a 15' that I seldom use.
When you hold your pencil under an angel and turn it while drawing a line keeps the point sharp. ;) Greetings from Holland.
Not to long ago I bought this old lufkin tape measure from an antique store. It's leather with stitching on the sides and a canvas like material as the measuring tape. It has this little handle on the side that flips out and you spin to wind it back up
I guess I fall into the .01%. I've been a carpenter for 28 years. I even know what the black diamond is for. Having patted myself on the back, I say all that to say you are spot on!
I primarily do interior finish work these days and prefer the Stanley classic 25'.
I have heard that the carpenter pencils are made flat so if you lay them down or drop them they don't roll away.
+Shane Gillespie Ah - the .01% - thanks for watching anyways. MrsW
I used to use a fatmax myself, but switched a couple years ago to a Milwaukee. it has a lifetime warranty, seems to hold up better and is about the same price. I have seen people use the serrations on the tab for making a mark when you don't have a pencil, is that what it's for?
Finding the center of a fraction is easily done in your head, especially with common fractions of an inch in carpentry. Just double the bottom number. Center of 3/8 is 3/16. Center of 11/16 is 11/32 and so on. So finding centre if say 67-5/8 is 33-1/2+5/16=33-13/16". That may seem complicated but when your tape is in front of you just work it out from the largest number down. Try it a few times, it's really quite easy.
I'm not sure if this was mentioned in the comments already; but, the serrated tip is used for making marks/indentations, into soft materials. Examples include: drywall, soft-wood lumber and foam-board insulation, to name a few. Great video!
Great info for the "non-contractor". Always learning something from your videos!
My newest tape is a FastCap PSSR16, reverse measuring tape. (I bought mine on Amazon, $7.99!) When doing layout, I prefer this design, so both sides, are right side up,so to speak. It comes with a rubber cushion to keep it from sliding when doing layout, it has a surface you can write your measurements on and wipe off, and when your pencil gets dull (#2 size) it has a built in sharpener. Fractions are also marked to the 16th. I've only had it a couple of weeks, but so far, it's my go to. I also have the Stanley Powerlock, Fat Max, and a Craftsman Diehard 25' that has been great to use for the last 20 yrs, but the spring is getting a little weaker, and the "automatic brake" is starting to slip a little. It should be one of the Lifetime Warranty items, I should look into that. lol
I have a Craftsman 8m/26ft tape that shows both metric and inches. It is great for when you are purchasing something on-line and description are metric, you can quickly cross reference size for your needs!
I have one of those too, as a back up tape. Occasionally I'm faced with something requiring a metric measurement.
Thought I knew all you would mention, but the equal parts trick was new to me, great video.
the black diamond is on-centre spacing for some engineered I-Joists
great video..i should i say i'm quite the late bloomer and have been somewhat unsatisfied with myself spending more time on hitting the books for a medical career than getting my hands dirty. looking forward to watching your videos. good luck in Texas..:)
thank you for another great !!!! as for the question about the black diamond's I do believe they represent the correct distance for truss layout span.
@ Wranglerstar when I came into this video and you said we would all learn a thing or two new about a tape measure I said to myself yeah right ! what Is there to know about a tape measure apart from it measuring things but damb everything you said in the video I couldn't believe! I wish I knew them before now. Great video thank you for sharing
Is the 19 inch measurement layout that used to be used instead of 16 in layout some plans will still call for this to be better than 16 but not as far out as 24
two tricks that I find are handy are picking something up from a scaffold with the hook at the end of the tape or laying out cuts on something by holding your finger at the right measure and then holding a pencil against the hook to mark out straight lines without a chalk line or straight edge. it's kind of hard to explain but I can do it without even thinking at this point
i always heard the black diamond was for winter load trusses or any trusses that would be experiencing large unintentional load so it can bare more weight then traditional 24" truss layout
Great video! Very helpful!
I have a Stanley fatmax myself, great tape measure! Absolutely love it!
some useful tips there. a few tool vids back you showed a long handled plane and said you would tell what it was used for in the next vid did I miss that vid?
Thank you, for you taking the time to share ideas. Great channel.
My Dad all way used the folding wood ruler! (Still have one of his around here) He was an electrician! Don't want a metal tape working with power. Yes he was very careful. But others may not be!
Yes! I like the 25 wide tape. Yes! I work alone a lot! I'm no carpenter! Something has all ways stumped me. Maybe you can answer a question that comes up a lot. I cut a board two or three time and it still to short!!! LOL
Thanks for a great video!
Thanks for the help!
+Lee Grubb I think your cutting joke went over someone's head!
That was OK! They where trying to help! Glade it did not go over yours!!!
Haha true that !
invest in elastomeric board stretcher
will be using the angle trick to divide a board evenly from now on thanks. Even the videos that I fell I have solid knowledge on you still seem to find something to learn
+ATBOYD 2015 great. always nice to learn something new.
If you can get your hands on one i would definitely suggest a komelon tape. I use it every day, it is an auto lock the tape on it is very durable, the case is durable i drop them all the time. plus it has the benefits of the stanley with large numbers and measurements on both sides of the tape with a nice hook for lumber and piper work.
No idea on the black diamonds but I am sure reading the comments will enlighten me. Regarding the little V mark, I also do that but I "tick" the side of the V onto the waste side so not only does it show me exactly where I measured but also what side of the line to cut to and what is waste.
The black diamond is used for quick truss marking in metric layouts. 5 trusses per 8' sheet good makes each diamond spaced out at 19.2"
Some tapes (most?) have 16" markings in read for 16" stud centers, again, used for quick identification.
In my opinion after using and going through 100's of tapes the best Measuring tapes are Milwaukee 16 and 25 foot tapes definitely recommend trying them out.
I have a measuring device that is electronic, you place the back side of it against one side of an area you want to measure such as a wall, press the button and it will make a clicking sound, the sound travels across the room bounces back from opposite wall and the unit "hears" the reflected clicking sound and will display the distance, example 12.7 feet. which equates to slightly less than 12 feet-81/2 inches. Using a tape measure to check to see if it was accurate, it was exactly as the readout indicated. The unit will measure from 2 foot to 100 feet if being outside, if inside a building it will measure up to 200 feet distance
Are the diamonds there for some type of tracing circles, or maybe tracing a line?
The black diamond is for truss layout. The fat max 25 foot is my favorite tape. I have a second job install shelf genie pull out drawers and we use only millimeter tapes, we can make our drawers to very close tolerances, I still prefer the fractional measuring.
Hey Cody I love the channel. We live here in Idaho and have a small piece of land. My wife and I home school and I work as an ER nurse. land is not much yet, but is home and ours. I have learned so much from the channel. I am restoring old hand tool and I have my dads wood shop from the 60's when he got out of the Marine Corps and Viet Nam. They are old Rockwell tools and work really well. I have made some of the projects you show on the channel and have had a lot of fun. My brother is a timber faller in Hood River area and contract fire faller in the summer. They have a small homestead and also live the lifestyle like you guys. Hey a lot of words. but what I was wondering is do you sell the carpenters pencils with your makers mark on them. Thanks so much
I use a milwaukee 10m tape. It's double sided and also has scale measures on the underside of the tape.
+Alex Mckillmore Milwaukee makes some very cool tapes!
Legend!! Thanks for your knowledge.
very interested in finding out about those black pyramids since I am a beginner carpenter and any tip to impress the boss would be helpful. thank you for this very informative video keep them coming!
+Jeremy Maclachlin Glad to help Jeremy. I will do more on different tools in the future.
Awesome tips! Thanks!
great and very informative as always Cody thanks.
have found parts for your stanley 71 in My late father's junk box if you want them just need po box #.
the diamond marks are called black truss markings , because the correspond to the truss layout which is used with 8ft sheets of plywood
My father had a special tape measure that had a sort of individual tape going out on the other sidg so you could measure corners. Really neat!! e of the body. It was attached directly to the body and a noth going up it was holding it in place. So you could easily unhook it and the tape itself had special markin
i really like Sterrett and i also like the double side tape which benefits the overhead work, i also have them in metric and standard, ( i hate the tapes that try and use both simultaneously) and lastly i also have the tape where it shows the half of each measure under each increment.
and as a side note the tapes with magnetic tips can be handy for 2 purposes 1 picking up small metal items like a punch or something, and lastly the clip on Sterrett and also the Craftsman tapes ive always had good luck with
Loved the tip where you angle the tape measure to a place where it's divisible by 4 and then mark the board. So simple and never would have thought of it! I want a tape measure that has fractions marked. I have difficulty distinguishing which little line because of my astigmatism in my vision. The astigmatism causes sort of a ghost image and the lines overlap. Can you recommend a tape measure with fractions? Thanks!
Fun fact; the oldie ruler is called a Duimstok (Thumbstick) in Dutch :) Another great video Cody. Going to watch the Biblestudy tonight with some hot cocoa :) . Have a great weekend ~!
+Ruuber2 you too
Thank you for the knowledge brother
I picked up a great little quality 16 footer at walmart for less then 5$! Its made by Komelon and although I hate everything that walmart stands for with all the chinese crap they sell, I just had to have it! Its small, and easy to read and has an automatic lock! the coated blade feels nice and even has fractional divisions! Handy little tape to just throw in your car's toolbox (which everybody SHOULD have) or anywhere you might need to bust out some measurements. Its small enough to fit in a pocket but has a clip as well. Perfect for trips to the hardware store. For precise everyday tasks I use a Starrett 6" scale with 10ths and 50th divisions. I would like it to have metric on the back but I haven't found one like that yet. I like all the variations in modern tapes, The variations from milwakee and DeWalt look promising. I also have a very handy tape that has a regular scale on one half and a half scale on the bottom to find the center on anything quick and easy without the bending technique although that is a great tip!. Ive also seen Diameter scales on the back of some tapes for measuring round things or belts. I'm a machinist so measurement is a big deal in my world.
Working in roofing and construction. I've found the fatmax 25 foot to b a great tape, that being said I also keep a 40 foot tape with me it dose not get used a lot but it come in handy with longer measurements. back when I first started the only tape we used was the 30 or 35 foot tape. I replaces my broken 30 foot with a 25 so i could find mine quickly and it was smaller and lighter, all the other people started liking it for those reasons they replaced their tapes with a 25 foot tape and now i cant seem to find any tapes again. except for my 40 foot tape
Measurement is 19 and 3/16". Purpose is for laying out engineered lumber joists and beams. Engineers will sometimes call for engineered joists or lvl material to be spaced larger like that because the material can hold greater live and dead loads then traditional dimensional lumber.