Just bought one today at a yard sale for 10 bucks came with everything! I'm watching this video because I never used one before but always wanted one. I'm really excited to use this thing
Nice! 10 bucks is a great price! One tip- When you use it, let it do the work, meaning do not work the motor too hard pushing/forcing things through. Keep checking/touching the motor and it if it feels hot maybe give it a chance to cool down. These are 20-30 years old now and I think we can make them last forever if we dont over work them. Happy Slicing!
@@7777jayhawk thanks for the tip! I never knew they were that old! Too cool. I'm about to use it later today. I'm going to take care of this slicer i love antiques god bless sir
@@archeryhuntermike6701 One more tip I might add is, if you do ebay you might keep an eye out, over time, for inexpensive spare parts for your slicer. Back when I did this I bought a spare blade and motor... but I had to wait and wait and watch. Of course I did not require them (mine was working fine) so I had time to wait... I just kept an eye out and search when I would do my normal ebay looking. I was surprised how often parts of these slicers sell for more than a whole new slicer! I would see motors priced at 30-40 bucks.... then I would see a whole complete working slicer sell for $15.00 The market is weird, but if you wait it will come. So I waited... and eventually grabbed a back-up motor for 7 bucks and back-up blade 5 ($2.00 more than you paid for a whole slicer, but not bad prices) So far I have never needed them, I baby my motor, never over run it... but I feel good knowing I have parts ready if I ever need them. All I know... as time goes by, parts are harder to find, so I applied the rule of "Get it/em while the getting is good" I have not looked for a long long time... I am not sure market prices are these days... but...anyway... FWIW. Good luck and happy slicing.
@carsonagenic6285 Can you tell me if you've ever removed the small gear to clean it? I have a washer leftover and I can't get the wobble out of the blade but it doesn't "fit" anywhere
I got a 1101E/4 at Goodwill. I used it to slice up a big roast for jerky and it worked wonderfully. I was so thrilled! When I was taking it apart to clean it I noticed that there was no 'thumb nut' covering the 'spring shaft' on the back side of the blade and the square head was exposed. It didn't seem to be bothering the function and the blade was running straight, so I didn't think it would be a problem. I had to use pliers to coax the square end turn turn since it was slightly more than finger tight. It only took a tiny effort to turn the 'spring shaft' and it popped out the front side of the blade. After I cleaned and dried the slicer I reassembled the slicer easily, EXCEPT for the 'spring shaft' which I could not get to stay in position to hold the blade. It just kept popping out the front. I thought maybe there was a mechanism inside the 'thumb nut' that holds the square end, but from photos I have seen showing the underside, it does not appear to have any structure that would work in that manner. Can you tell me if there is some particular way to re-install the 'spring shaft' and keep it in place? Is a 'thumb nut' needed to hold the shaft in place or it simply to turn the shaft? Any info you could provide would be wonderful! Thank you.
I jar did a Hobart 1512 bearings all messed up. Missing a spacer between blade and main body or bearing to shaft body. Whatever it’s done.and running beautifully. This rival is such a beautiful unit. Just make sure it doesn’t touch chemicals acid or chlorine. It definitely would damage metal surface and beyond. Unbelievable but beautiful meat slicer. I love vintage and this is one of them. Portable light and washable
I enjoyed your video. Just bought one on line used of course. I researched the new ones, read the dismal reviews on the new slicers and decided to buy the Rival.
Congrats on your old slicer, they sure do work great! Isn't it weird how "New and Improved" is usually not :) My only caution is not over work the motor. Let the blade do the work, do not force meat through and do a "touch tests" often on the motor housing as you go. If it ever feels too warm it is being over worked... because as we know... heat kills these good ole motors.
@@algorel4763 I do not know which is better, or where to buy various blades for these. If you can find blades that fit your machine and they offer both types I would pay a lil more and buy both. I could not find extra blades back when I looked and the one "extra blade" I obtained did not fit well). So if you find extras, and they are priced right, get em while the getting is good... and try to arrange easy returns/refunds if the blades do not fit perfect. On a side note, if I HAD TO pick one blade, I guess I would go with serrated because I think it could cut more things while (maybe) not mangling other things... I think... but I am not 100% expert on that. If you ever try one or the other type of blade or learn more, I would like to hear how it goes.
I took mine completely apart and ran it through the dishwasher as well. For the adjuster shaft, shaft screw, blade nut and the gear interfaces, I used a dab of mineral oil.
Nice video. I had a scare recently with my 1101E-2 Rival. One of the nuts in the upper part of the motor had come off and got into the gears, seizing it up. I thought the motor might have died, but I put the nut back, greased it up, and it's still going like a champ. My Rival has been in my family since the 60s, and has gotten regular use throughout its lifespan. I inherited mine about seven years ago. They really don't make stuff like these slicers anymore, not for home use anyway. Newer models of home slicers all have plastic gears and are made in China.
Great job opening up your machine and making it perfect again. It is good info to remind people who read the comments to "snug up"/tighten the nuts and bolts on the motor if they can get loose over time. Also interesting to hear the gears can be lubed/greased. Did you simply pull off the cover and... what exact grease/lube did you use?
@@7777jayhawk Get food grade grease. They make grease specifically for use as lube for gears on this kind of appliance. When I got the Rival, it had what looked like carbon or moly based lube on the gears [nasty looking black stuff, probably for automotive use], not great to use in or on stuff you're preparing food with. Grandpa probably used what he had on hand in the garage to grease the gears because that's just how you did things back when he was young. If it was just in the motor I probably would have left it because that should never touch the food anyway, but it was also on the gears that connect to the blade, which is a no-go. I cleaned it off the gears and regreased it with food grade grease when I first got it. Also, for those not terribly handy, don't use something like WD-40 to try and lubricate something like this. WD-40 will eat away any actual lubrication because it's actually a solvent. WD-40 is for loosening up stuff that gets corroded or rusted, and not for moving parts on things like electric motors that use actual grease or oil for lubrication. When you spray it on a squeaking door, what you're doing is breaking up and disolving whatever is causing friction and creating the noise. Usually a little dirt/dust, rust, or corrosion where the contact point on the hinge wears down with repeated use. That sounds like an odd thing to bring up, but you'd be surprised how many people think WD-40 is just lube oil in a can and will spray it into the moving parts of something like an electric motor in an appliance thinking they're lubing it up when they are actually doing more harm than good and are actually degeasing it. WD-40 actually does make lube in a can under the brand name, but it specifically says it's lube, and as I recall it's lithium based. That is not something you really want to use in a kitchen appliance anyway. Just use food grade grease, it's cheaper anyway.
@@contrabardus Great advice! Thank you for contributing the great information. It is a fact that not all lubes are good for lubing all things, and as you said, quite often some lubes will ruin what we were trying to help. That is a VERY easy(costly) mistake to make. Bottom line- BE SURE to read the warnings and check the info online.
My pleasure to help out. Thank you for the nice comment. Good comments like yours are what motivate me to keep making/posting videos. I sometimes wonder... if anyone actually watches/cares.... am I wasting my time? As you look for one to buy notice the little changes they made over the years they used to make these. None of the changes are a big deal, but I bought some back up parts and they do not seem to want to fit as well as the parts that came with my unit. I thought they would be the same, but there are slight differences. I dont know if any years are better than other years but there are slight differences. If I could add anything to my video it would be- If you fall in love the one you buy and always want it available I would suggest skip buying backup parts (motor/blade assembly/etc) and instead keep an eye out for a great deal on a whole back up unit. I came to this conclusion after monkeying around buying back up parts that do not "sound" like they fit quite right when I put them on. It all spins, but it sounds like it doesn't like them.... I hope that made sense.
Bought one for 30 the other day so thanks for showing the disassembly! Was wondering if the blades supposed to be spinning faster so this answered my question. Thank you!!!
BARGAIN!! 30 is a great price! I appreciate the good words... one tip I will offer is "let the blade cut" do not force it or the motor will over work. I always keep touching the outside of the motor housing to see if it gets too hot, if so, I give let it sit, and have been known to point a small fan on it.... just like pointing a small fan at my computer external harddrives when they are on for hours... same as my Xbox, same as my security camera DVR which is on 24/7 and has 2 fans pointed at it. That DVR gets too hot, and heat kills electronics fast. Maybe take a file to the blade, look up videos on proper sharpening technique. Congrats on you new slicer!
Picked up a fully (but a little greasy) at local thrifty for 13 bucks, all parts included and working. Model #2, so the chrome motor housing, looks 'retro' and works fine. Nice video you have, and will be doing Elk jerky-'boys' for the holiday. These are 'cheap' at home tools. Work, but barely, hobby for sure. If you want your stuff done quick and fast, pay for it either at packing/store outlets, or find one at auction for commercial grade (done in 1/100th the time as this one is done and clean up is as easy). Pro tools, get the job done pro.
I saw people using them when pressure or water bath canning, with vegetables, to get all the vegetables that same width so they cook evenly, since they were not different thicknesses as they would be if cut by hand.
I have a model 1101E-2, Made in Sedalia Mo.. I love this machine, but the motor seems to be burning up, and losing power. Can the motor be repaired, or are there replacement motors. This one is solid stainless steel and is heavy.
I imagine they can be repaired but the price may not be worth it. I have made a lot of comments here about getting out in front of this problem. 1) Be sure when using it to not make it work too hard. Let the blade cut, try not to force the motor. Keeping a sharp blade will help this. 2) I always comment to keep checking the motor case on longer jobs and if it heats up consider taking a break. It may sound like over kill but maybe set up a little fan to blow on the case. Heat is the death of motors. 3)... Be on the lookout for another motor before you need one... and that day will come if you use it often. I have said it often in these comments to watch ebay and do not over pay. I have not watched since I am set with my back up parts but back when I looking I was amused at how often a complete, full, operating slicer with all the parts would often sell for less than some sellers wanted for just a motor or blade. It is funny. The key is get out in front of it. Start looking now and keep looking until a motor or complete unit comes up and then grab it...and if you buy a whole machine for less than the cost of motors... then that is OK too :) Seriously... I saw people wanting $30-40 for a motor (which might no fit perfectly) and that motor would sit unsold for a while... and then out of the blue a seller would list a complete unit for $20.00 free shipping... or something. So I suggest look on ebay..and keep looking. Make it a habit, dont get lazy. Use the filter and then make the search a favorite.. .and click it 2-3 times per week for as long as it takes... maybe months. It may sound like a hassle but it only takes 20 seconds to do a search each time... and when nothing shows for a while... and you stick with it.... THEN BOOM!!! you search and there it is. IT IS VERY SATISFYING. I am very good at this. I have had things I wanted (for a good price) and did what I suggest... and I waited and waited... and I found everything I wanted... every one. They all show up on ebay sooner or later. BONUS ADVICE... the same goes for selling. If you have something kind of rare and list it and it does not sell, but you know it is worth a certain price(as long as there are not identical items for less) all you have to do is keep listing the item.... sooner or later a buyer will show up and be delighted to pay your price. Good luck and happy slicing
@@amyknox790 thanks, after I wrote that I checked and picked one up for 17 bucks with shipping! I received it last week and it seems to work great. I appreciate your recommendation though!
The butcher sliced up a london broil for me, nice and thin...I marinated it for 24 hrs and put in in my Nesco jerky maker about 4 hours ago....My house has the fragrant aroma of peppered steak wafting thru...I added a 1/2 teaspoon of liquid smoke this time.... Anyway a lady has one of these slicers for $25....probably get it for $20....never been used, new in the box...looks like I'll be buying it....thanks... And I grew up in Kansas.... Saw the Wildcats woop the Jayhawks at Ahearn field house. I think it was 1981... I guess those days are gone...lol......I have friends that went to KU and KState. I tried to stay out of the battle...lol
$25.00 is bargain! I would buy it in second.... When using it I suggest keeping an eye on the motor (feel it every so often) and if it ever feels too hot, take a break and it will last forever. Home made beef jerky IS THE BEST!! PS Sadly my turbo oven stooped working and I have not been making any jerky lately... but I hope to replace/repair it some day.
I just got one. Yesterday and used it for slicing a bottom round roast, for jerky meat. Love it. Didn't come with instructions. Would like to know about blade tension.
I think the motor has a small hole that says 'oil' so you can add a few drops of oil to it, also. I like, dripless oil, even though it is kind of hard to find. Do a search online for dripless oil and you can find it.
I have this meat slicer from my mother-in-law that passed away. I cant figure out how to get the blade on. I think I may be missing a piece. Is it possible for me to send you pictures of the blade and what I have so you can tell me what I am missing.?? Your video was great I just didn't see where you replaced the blade. I really want to use it.
Congrats on your new slicer... and one way or another you can get it going. Before sending a picture take a look at 6:13 in the video where I pull off the 2 part "blade holder". I have seen other types of these, it seems they changed the design of them over time.... but on mine, watching the video... the other side/far side/back side has the "male thread part with a flat round part which actually touch the meat. Maybe call it a "bolt" part of a "nut and bolt" pair. When attached this flat round part is flush/flat against the blade. The near side/front side watching the video, show the female knob with inner threads the back side screw part goes into. Maybe call it the "nut" part of a "nut and bolt"pair. I place my blade in place and then push the round thread screw part through the hole. This part also has a squared off part that matches the blade, holding the round blade in place so it spins with the motor. With the blade on and the screw thread sticking through it (on my slicer) I then twist on the female knob accepting threads. It goes on finger tight, no tools needed. I hope that makes sense, watch that part of the video... and maybe some other people videos.... and maybe go to ebay and look for blades and blade parts for these. Then of course check google pictures. Anyway... my machine had 3 parts to the blade. 1) the round blade 2) the screw threaded part (screw) 3) the "bolt" part which accepts the screwed threads (bolt) Hope that helps and I did not make it sound too complicated.... it is really very easy... as you said you are probably missing a part. You can buy these part on ebay... BUT... DO NOT OVER PAY! As I have said before the prices for parts of these things are ebay can be crazy. There are often times you can buy a whole new slicer for the same price as just one part. You may have to watch and wait... but keep looking. Educate yourself on the parts and whole machines by looking as SOLD prices. You can do this using filters... and is really the most important search on ebay. Offer prices are dreams.... but SOLD prices are the reality.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar one, but mine doesn't have the gray painted motor (it appears to be a stainless housing) and the feet are white rubber. They don't make them like this anymore, do they? I figure mine is about 45 years old. My folks gave it to me.
45 years... I would like to buy something/anything today that is made to last that long. These are workhorses. You have the good ole stainless housing that says on the side "Made in Kansas City" ? Cool :) Nope, they dont make them like this any more. I am not sure they make anything here or even in the U.S. anymore. I bought one of those stainless motors as a back up, but it does not seem to work as smoothly as the gray motor that came with mine. I guess there are slight differences between years they made these. But still, it is cool to have something like this that says "Made in KCMO" as a collectors item :) I made another another video about beef jerky where I talk about freezing/thawing my beef differently so it is not "as hard" on my motor, hoping to make my motor last as long as I can.
Great demo!! A blade sharpening and/or blade replacement video would be awesome. Was wondering if there is a blade sharpening attachment that can be purchased. I've seen a few but not for this model or the 1030V. Any suggestions??
Thank you for the positive comment! There are some videos about sharpening these round blades out there... and I am far from an expert about how to do that. I have taken a metal file to my blade a couple of times to sharpen the edge, but I am quite sure if I showed a video of me doing it I would be insulted for having bad technique... Some people love yelling at video posters for even the slightest debatable issues shown in videos. I kind of chuckle of some folks who have made snotty comments regarding a small tiny part thing in a small part or something I said in a video.... while not saying anything positive about the rest of the info or my efforts. I laugh it off, but those kind of people and their comments and keep me from posting more videos. Unless I am pretty dang sure about something PLUS I think there are not enough existing videos about something then I tend to... well.... I tend to not exert the effort. But positive comments like your yours keep me posting more. I like to give back to the data base of info... I use youtube to learn things too...
My MIL just gave me one (no paperwork) that her MIL gave her. Looks almost identical...mine is 1101E/4. Thank you for the demo. May be a silly question, but can you slice through bone like with bone-in ribeye?
With the correct blade I imagine it could cut bone or even steel.... but the question is "do you really want to do that?" These machines are over 20 years old and are on borrowed time as they sit. I made a comment somewhere about how I kind of baby my slicer. I make to take breaks if/when the motor gets too hot. I do not make the motor work too hard. I have actually perfected my method and batch size to get through the slicing in one run with needing breaks and I do not work it too hard. You will be able to tell by the motor sound if you are working it too hard. The real question on these slicers is what is the purpose? I asked that in one of my videos... I was trying to decide if it was easier and faster to just slice things by hand with a knife and avoid all the set up and clean up of the slicer.... and my conclusion was "I like the uniform slices of meat which the slicer provides" so it is worth it to me to use it... Regarding you question... would it be easier (and less wear and tear on the slicer ) to cut bones with a proper knife. In my opinion I would not use the slicer for that. There are slicers out there in the world that cut bones and beef all day non stop with no issues... I just dont think this slicer is meant for that. I now consider my slicer to mostly my beef jerky tool. It does a great job of that and I do not do it too often and I baby it when I use it. I want it to last a long time. I slightly freeze my beef to firm it up (not too hard though) and it works better than I could do by hand. So.... that is my 2 cents... of course I could be very wrong and it is perfect for bone cutting... but I wouldn't. Congrats on your new slicer!
Just picked one up from the good will ($20). My friend you rock!! I have always wanted one and now I can slice up meat and cheese. Do you happen to know do you sharpen the blades ?
$20.00 is a true bargain for this great tool! Congrats! As far as sharpening... that is a debate. Scan the comments down below for what I have I said... and for what other good posters offered as advice. If you come up with better ideas/solutions please come back and let us know.
Wayne that is a good question. I never found a predesigned one, but I think I found people online who will do it for you (I seem to recall it was too much money in my opinion). I have moved and stored my slicer for a while, and I kind of forget how I did it... but I seems to remember using my auto slicer.... maybe? Be sure it sharpen at the right angle... and also I seem to recall taking the round blade to where I watch TV and using a proper file and over time, doing 4-5 indents at a time, being very careful to keep the proper angle, I would file sharpen it. I dont think got to where it "cut paper" but it was plenty sharp to keep the motor from over working. By doing it a couple of indents at a time it was not a chore. NOW I BETTER QUALIFY ALL THAT... I am sure some people would attack me for doing it free hand (versus putting it a vice and using an exact angle sharpener..... so be careful and ... you know.... it worked for me
7777jayhawk Thanks, I did try the file trick, it was not as successful for me. However, chefs choice has one out there that I was able to make work a few days ago. It was awkward and placed backward on the slicer but it was able to put a descent edge on it. Thanks for the response.
So I just got mine all cleaned up and reassembled. Got it for free and it turns on not problem but the wheel seems to move kinda slow. Your video doesn’t show the wheel side in operation. Does it move kinda slow for anyone else?
Thank you for this! I inherited my mother-in-law's slicer. I just sliced a turkey breast and love how it made it nice and thin. The problem I'm having is that I can't get the dern blade off. Yours seemed to twist off so easily, but mine just stops after just a slight turn. I'm so frustrated because now I can't use it again until I can sterilize the blade. I wrote the company for a manual, but I doubt fixing the blade problem will be in there. I don't know, maybe it's rusted inside and I just can't see it. Any suggestions?
Stuck metal parts can be tricky. It reminds me of when I was a kid and I was using wrenches more and more often.... and my Dad said to me "You are old enough to break that off now, so don't break it!" as I was (over) tightening nuts and/or breaking loose stuck-on nuts. I wish I was there to help you... and I would just crack it loose for you... BUT I bet you can do it.... BUT THERE IS A DANGER of stripping it off the threads. I suggest maybe spaying some lube of some kind into the threaded area and letting it sit for a bit before twisting it loose, maybe use a paid of pliers or vise grips (BUT BE CAREFUL to not scratch it up). Wrap a plastic pad between the pliers and the nut OR maybe try blowing a hair dryer or heat gun on the metal.... OR maybe put the part into really really hot water. The heat will expand the metal a little bit and maybe that will do the trick. But I bet if you get a really good grip on it and crank it, it will spin off.... UNLESS it is different than mine and it does not spin all the way off.... you said it spins then sticks? That sounds stuck... just twist that sucker... it will come off. But be careful, you are old enough to break it now.. If it was me... I would crank that sucker and if I break it I would not worry too much. IF yours is like mine the part that holds the blade on (watch the video @6:21 I show how the blade holder part comes apart in 2 pieces, left and right side. One part is like a quarter shape with a square part coming out the middle which had screws in it... and the other side is the part that screws in that part. Together they hold the blade on. I may have the description slightly off... but the point is... if you break this part off and ruin it, it does not mess the whole machine or blade. The good news is that part, that two piece part which screw together and hold the blade on is separate from the blade and machine so if you break it (sheer off the threads) you can buy another one. The bad news is you will have to get a new blade holder part to be able to use the machine... but if you cant remove and clean the blade then you cant use the machine. So after all of that.. and don't yell at me if you break... but I suggest grip it and twist if off... it will crack loose and spin off fine and dandy.... Use finesse.... heat it up as I say above... think good thoughts and then get it off of there, you will be fine. But if you do break it, You can find parts for these on ebay, but people are mighty proud of them and I have found you can almost buy a whole new machine for the price of just the motor, or juts a blade... or maybe the price of this screw nut part. Good luck.... don't break it, you are strong enough to..... juts get it off nicely. After writing all of that I would be curious how it all turns out, let me know.
I have the same one and I was unable to unscrew it as well---until I saw your video. Then I grabbed some pliers and it broke loose with no problem. Glad I found your video!
I have not looked for a while but they are on ebay (ebay has everything... if you are willing to wait and wait and wait) (and the longer you are willing to wait the lower the price you will pay). When I was more active looking at these it was interesting. People would offer... and other people would actually pay... "parts of the this slicer" for more than a "FULL SLICER!" A motor would sell for more one week than a complete working slicer would sell for the next. The moral is wait... and wait.....get you perfect working slicer for a great price. I see a bunch for sale right now for what I think are good prices.... as low as $25.00 + $15.00 shipping.... AND RIGHT BELOW THAT (list high to low) IS A FREEKIN MOTOR ONLY FOR $29.97 + $10.00!!! How funny!!! Who would buy the motor only when for 2 cents more you get whole thing? Good luck finding a good one. BE SURE TO "TALK" to the seller. My main ebay tips is (when itmes are priced over 15-20 bucks)(I dont bother people for trinkets, I just buy them)... BUT for real items I message the seller because 1) To test and see if they will be courteous and reply 2) to ask the condition etc etc .... but mainly I only want deal with easy going friendly kind honest sellers.... I have no time for the 5-10% of the sellers who are nasty despicable mean haters.... and usually a simple question can weed them out. e.g. one word answers. If a seller can not type at least a full sentence they dont get my business. So anyway... if you get one of these slicers and do not over heat the engine or otherwise abuse it .... it will last forever. My favorite thing about my slicer? It says right on the motor "MADE IN KANSAS CITY".... that is too cool.
I would look on ebay... it may take some time... wait and watch. I would not buy the first one you see, especially if it is waaaaaaaay over priced (230-30 bucks) like they often are. People part these out for more then the machine as a whole. I have not looked for a while.... but I have seen blades (just the blade) and other single parts for this slicer priced higher than a WHOLE COMPLETE machine.... you may have to wait and watch and look everyday.... but it will come. Set up a filtered search, add it to your favorites and then do a 10 second check daily.... all good things come to those who wait. THAT is how I bought 2-3 back up blades....and an extra machine :) for less than 20 bucks
I do not think it can be lubed. I would make sure to not force meat, let the blade do the cutting not pushing too hard. Maybe try to sharpen you blade, or have it sharpened. Certain meats cut better than others, some will clog it, others are too hard to cut. Keep touching the motor make sure it is not hot, if it is, take a break. If the motor is worn out the good thing is it a replaceable component. Look one ebay for the same serial number motor and maybe buy a blade. BUT... do not be too quick to buy. Check the prices and wait. I have seen wide fluctuations in the prices of individual parts... and quite often you can buy a whole machine for the same or less than some seller over charging for just the motor. Seriously, I seen an entire machine in working condition sell for $25-30... while some other seller was asking $50 for just the motor, and wanted $30 for a blade. You simply have to wait for the deal to come. Do a search and then save the search in your favorites/bookmarks and then patiently check it every day... always until it pops up... and it will. Everything always does. There have been items I waited for over a year to pop up... and they did and I grabbed them with no messing around. Wait for your price, it will come.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement blade "Retainer Screw" for a Rival 1101e/7 food slicer? What it originally came with is a plastic screw which has broken off inside the base, now I have to drill it out, why it wasn't a steel screw is a mystery. If anyone has better solution for a blade screw please share it.
It is probably just really stuck on... give it a good twist... maybe spray some food safe lube into it/on on to it... let it sit with the lube... maybe try heating the metal to expand it.... maybe after using and it is all hot. But you do have to remove it sooner or later to clean it.... but one warning.... Before you break it maybe check on ebay for the cost of a replacement knob/screw to know the risk (and be aware sometimes it is cheaper to buy a whole new slicer than just one part)(you have to wait and watch but this exact slicer pops up for great prices... lower than what some sell parts for.... no kidding)
@@SmokinJames And best of all sounds like you got it off without needing to buy a replacement! Sweet! Happy slicing! PS I will offer a couple of tips- 1- While slicing keep checking the heat of the motor, especially if you are "making it work hard". It is far better to take a break and let it cool down than burn it up. These are old machines and sometimes some meat will make it work harder and get really hot. Dont let it get too hot 2- Maybe use some food safe lube of some kind on all screw threads all the time. Keep those lubed and they will will come off easier. 3- Avoid over tightening any of the screw on parts, it is your machines so no need to be "better safe than sorry" as you would if some other dummy needed super tight for over-safety. I would suggest tighten things up only enough to make them stable, tight and working safe. When you are done slicing they are easy unscrew. Then clean and re-screw on "more loose then tight" for storing. Then lube and tighten them up before the next use... repeat for ever
Just bought one today at a yard sale for 10 bucks came with everything! I'm watching this video because I never used one before but always wanted one. I'm really excited to use this thing
Nice! 10 bucks is a great price!
One tip- When you use it, let it do the work, meaning do not work the motor too hard pushing/forcing things through. Keep checking/touching the motor and it if it feels hot maybe give it a chance to cool down. These are 20-30 years old now and I think we can make them last forever if we dont over work them. Happy Slicing!
@@7777jayhawk thanks for the tip! I never knew they were that old! Too cool. I'm about to use it later today. I'm going to take care of this slicer i love antiques god bless sir
@@archeryhuntermike6701 One more tip I might add is, if you do ebay you might keep an eye out, over time, for inexpensive spare parts for your slicer.
Back when I did this I bought a spare blade and motor... but I had to wait and wait and watch. Of course I did not require them (mine was working fine) so I had time to wait... I just kept an eye out and search when I would do my normal ebay looking.
I was surprised how often parts of these slicers sell for more than a whole new slicer! I would see motors priced at 30-40 bucks.... then I would see a whole complete working slicer sell for $15.00
The market is weird, but if you wait it will come.
So I waited... and eventually grabbed a back-up motor for 7 bucks and back-up blade 5 ($2.00 more than you paid for a whole slicer, but not bad prices)
So far I have never needed them, I baby my motor, never over run it... but I feel good knowing I have parts ready if I ever need them. All I know... as time goes by, parts are harder to find, so I applied the rule of "Get it/em while the getting is good"
I have not looked for a long long time... I am not sure market prices are these days... but...anyway... FWIW.
Good luck and happy slicing.
Picked one up for $10 at a garage sale yesterday. Seems very solid and well built. Cant wait to try it out.
@carsonagenic6285 Can you tell me if you've ever removed the small gear to clean it? I have a washer leftover and I can't get the wobble out of the blade but it doesn't "fit" anywhere
I got a 1101E/4 at Goodwill. I used it to slice up a big roast for jerky and it worked wonderfully. I was so thrilled! When I was taking it apart to clean it I noticed that there was no 'thumb nut' covering the 'spring shaft' on the back side of the blade and the square head was exposed. It didn't seem to be bothering the function and the blade was running straight, so I didn't think it would be a problem. I had to use pliers to coax the square end turn turn since it was slightly more than finger tight. It only took a tiny effort to turn the 'spring shaft' and it popped out the front side of the blade. After I cleaned and dried the slicer I reassembled the slicer easily, EXCEPT for the 'spring shaft' which I could not get to stay in position to hold the blade. It just kept popping out the front. I thought maybe there was a mechanism inside the 'thumb nut' that holds the square end, but from photos I have seen showing the underside, it does not appear to have any structure that would work in that manner. Can you tell me if there is some particular way to re-install the 'spring shaft' and keep it in place? Is a 'thumb nut' needed to hold the shaft in place or it simply to turn the
shaft? Any info you could provide would be wonderful! Thank you.
Thank you for video. I found one just like this for $5 at yard sale.
Got one of those at a thrift store for $19. Used it once so far. I like it.
This is a great demonstration - we have one of these that we obtained from a neighbor - this shows us how to use it, thank you.
Thank you for the good words Mike, it makes me happy to hear my video helped you. Enjoy the slicer it is a great one :)
I jar did a Hobart 1512 bearings all messed up. Missing a spacer between blade and main body or bearing to shaft body. Whatever it’s done.and running beautifully. This rival is such a beautiful unit. Just make sure it doesn’t touch chemicals acid or chlorine. It definitely would damage metal surface and beyond. Unbelievable but beautiful meat slicer. I love vintage and this is one of them. Portable light and washable
I enjoyed your video. Just bought one on line used of course. I researched the new ones,
read the dismal reviews on the new slicers and decided to buy the Rival.
Congrats on your old slicer, they sure do work great!
Isn't it weird how "New and Improved" is usually not :)
My only caution is not over work the motor. Let the blade do the work, do not force meat through and do a "touch tests" often on the motor housing as you go. If it ever feels too warm it is being over worked... because as we know... heat kills these good ole motors.
Do you know which blade is best, serrated
or solid?
@@algorel4763 I do not know which is better, or where to buy various blades for these. If you can find blades that fit your machine and they offer both types I would pay a lil more and buy both. I could not find extra blades back when I looked and the one "extra blade" I obtained did not fit well). So if you find extras, and they are priced right, get em while the getting is good... and try to arrange easy returns/refunds if the blades do not fit perfect.
On a side note, if I HAD TO pick one blade, I guess I would go with serrated because I think it could cut more things while (maybe) not mangling other things... I think... but I am not 100% expert on that.
If you ever try one or the other type of blade or learn more, I would like to hear how it goes.
I'm glad you can take it apart. I was just hoping some would tell me how to loosen screw and dodads.
I took mine completely apart and ran it through the dishwasher as well. For the adjuster shaft, shaft screw, blade nut and the gear interfaces, I used a dab of mineral oil.
Great tip, keep those parts lubed for easy use and help prevent rust.
Thank you so much for this tutorial, I definitely needed it!
Nice video.
I had a scare recently with my 1101E-2 Rival. One of the nuts in the upper part of the motor had come off and got into the gears, seizing it up.
I thought the motor might have died, but I put the nut back, greased it up, and it's still going like a champ.
My Rival has been in my family since the 60s, and has gotten regular use throughout its lifespan. I inherited mine about seven years ago.
They really don't make stuff like these slicers anymore, not for home use anyway. Newer models of home slicers all have plastic gears and are made in China.
Great job opening up your machine and making it perfect again. It is good info to remind people who read the comments to "snug up"/tighten the nuts and bolts on the motor if they can get loose over time.
Also interesting to hear the gears can be lubed/greased.
Did you simply pull off the cover and... what exact grease/lube did you use?
@@7777jayhawk Get food grade grease. They make grease specifically for use as lube for gears on this kind of appliance.
When I got the Rival, it had what looked like carbon or moly based lube on the gears [nasty looking black stuff, probably for automotive use], not great to use in or on stuff you're preparing food with.
Grandpa probably used what he had on hand in the garage to grease the gears because that's just how you did things back when he was young. If it was just in the motor I probably would have left it because that should never touch the food anyway, but it was also on the gears that connect to the blade, which is a no-go.
I cleaned it off the gears and regreased it with food grade grease when I first got it.
Also, for those not terribly handy, don't use something like WD-40 to try and lubricate something like this. WD-40 will eat away any actual lubrication because it's actually a solvent. WD-40 is for loosening up stuff that gets corroded or rusted, and not for moving parts on things like electric motors that use actual grease or oil for lubrication.
When you spray it on a squeaking door, what you're doing is breaking up and disolving whatever is causing friction and creating the noise. Usually a little dirt/dust, rust, or corrosion where the contact point on the hinge wears down with repeated use.
That sounds like an odd thing to bring up, but you'd be surprised how many people think WD-40 is just lube oil in a can and will spray it into the moving parts of something like an electric motor in an appliance thinking they're lubing it up when they are actually doing more harm than good and are actually degeasing it.
WD-40 actually does make lube in a can under the brand name, but it specifically says it's lube, and as I recall it's lithium based. That is not something you really want to use in a kitchen appliance anyway. Just use food grade grease, it's cheaper anyway.
@@contrabardus Great advice! Thank you for contributing the great information. It is a fact that not all lubes are good for lubing all things, and as you said, quite often some lubes will ruin what we were trying to help. That is a VERY easy(costly) mistake to make.
Bottom line- BE SURE to read the warnings and check the info online.
Shout out for helping me get the blade off!!!
Just picked one of these up at a swapmeet from a $2.00 table. Works great!
SWEET DEAL!! If I see one for 10 bucks or less I will buy another one!
I am thinking of buying one. Excellent video of use and disassembly, thanks
My pleasure to help out. Thank you for the nice comment. Good comments like yours are what motivate me to keep making/posting videos.
I sometimes wonder... if anyone actually watches/cares.... am I wasting my time?
As you look for one to buy notice the little changes they made over the years they used to make these. None of the changes are a big deal, but I bought some back up parts and they do not seem to want to fit as well as the parts that came with my unit. I thought they would be the same, but there are slight differences. I dont know if any years are better than other years but there are slight differences.
If I could add anything to my video it would be- If you fall in love the one you buy and always want it available I would suggest skip buying backup parts (motor/blade assembly/etc) and instead keep an eye out for a great deal on a whole back up unit.
I came to this conclusion after monkeying around buying back up parts that do not "sound" like they fit quite right when I put them on. It all spins, but it sounds like it doesn't like them.... I hope that made sense.
Bought one for 30 the other day so thanks for showing the disassembly!
Was wondering if the blades supposed to be spinning faster so this answered my question. Thank you!!!
BARGAIN!! 30 is a great price! I appreciate the good words... one tip I will offer is "let the blade cut" do not force it or the motor will over work. I always keep touching the outside of the motor housing to see if it gets too hot, if so, I give let it sit, and have been known to point a small fan on it.... just like pointing a small fan at my computer external harddrives when they are on for hours... same as my Xbox, same as my security camera DVR which is on 24/7 and has 2 fans pointed at it. That DVR gets too hot, and heat kills electronics fast.
Maybe take a file to the blade, look up videos on proper sharpening technique.
Congrats on you new slicer!
Picked up a fully (but a little greasy) at local thrifty for 13 bucks, all parts included and working. Model #2, so the chrome motor housing, looks 'retro' and works fine. Nice video you have, and will be doing Elk jerky-'boys' for the holiday. These are 'cheap' at home tools. Work, but barely, hobby for sure. If you want your stuff done quick and fast, pay for it either at packing/store outlets, or find one at auction for commercial grade (done in 1/100th the time as this one is done and clean up is as easy). Pro tools, get the job done pro.
$13 is a bargain! Good job. Take care of it, dont over work the motor and it should last a long time!
I saw people using them when pressure or water bath canning, with vegetables, to get all the vegetables that same width so they cook evenly, since they were not different thicknesses as they would be if cut by hand.
Thank you I love this video
I have a model 1101E-2, Made in Sedalia Mo.. I love this machine, but the motor seems to be burning up, and losing power. Can the motor be repaired, or are there replacement motors. This one is solid stainless steel and is heavy.
I imagine they can be repaired but the price may not be worth it. I have made a lot of comments here about getting out in front of this problem. 1) Be sure when using it to not make it work too hard. Let the blade cut, try not to force the motor. Keeping a sharp blade will help this. 2) I always comment to keep checking the motor case on longer jobs and if it heats up consider taking a break. It may sound like over kill but maybe set up a little fan to blow on the case. Heat is the death of motors. 3)...
Be on the lookout for another motor before you need one... and that day will come if you use it often. I have said it often in these comments to watch ebay and do not over pay. I have not watched since I am set with my back up parts but back when I looking I was amused at how often a complete, full, operating slicer with all the parts would often sell for less than some sellers wanted for just a motor or blade. It is funny.
The key is get out in front of it. Start looking now and keep looking until a motor or complete unit comes up and then grab it...and if you buy a whole machine for less than the cost of motors... then that is OK too :)
Seriously... I saw people wanting $30-40 for a motor (which might no fit perfectly) and that motor would sit unsold for a while... and then out of the blue a seller would list a complete unit for $20.00 free shipping... or something.
So I suggest look on ebay..and keep looking. Make it a habit, dont get lazy. Use the filter and then make the search a favorite.. .and click it 2-3 times per week for as long as it takes... maybe months. It may sound like a hassle but it only takes 20 seconds to do a search each time... and when nothing shows for a while... and you stick with it.... THEN BOOM!!! you search and there it is. IT IS VERY SATISFYING.
I am very good at this. I have had things I wanted (for a good price) and did what I suggest... and I waited and waited... and I found everything I wanted... every one. They all show up on ebay sooner or later.
BONUS ADVICE... the same goes for selling. If you have something kind of rare and list it and it does not sell, but you know it is worth a certain price(as long as there are not identical items for less) all you have to do is keep listing the item.... sooner or later a buyer will show up and be delighted to pay your price.
Good luck and happy slicing
Check ebay, there were several replacement motors, I was looking for a replacement gear and saw them.
@@amyknox790 thanks, after I wrote that I checked and picked one up for 17 bucks with shipping! I received it last week and it seems to work great. I appreciate your recommendation though!
The butcher sliced up a london broil for me, nice and thin...I marinated it for 24 hrs and put in in my Nesco jerky maker about 4 hours ago....My house has the fragrant aroma of peppered steak wafting thru...I added a 1/2 teaspoon of liquid smoke this time....
Anyway a lady has one of these slicers for $25....probably get it for $20....never been used, new in the box...looks like I'll be buying it....thanks...
And I grew up in Kansas....
Saw the Wildcats woop the Jayhawks at Ahearn field house. I think it was 1981...
I guess those days are gone...lol......I have friends that went to KU and KState.
I tried to stay out of the battle...lol
$25.00 is bargain! I would buy it in second.... When using it I suggest keeping an eye on the motor (feel it every so often) and if it ever feels too hot, take a break and it will last forever.
Home made beef jerky IS THE BEST!!
PS
Sadly my turbo oven stooped working and I have not been making any jerky lately... but I hope to replace/repair it some day.
I just got one. Yesterday and used it for slicing a bottom round roast, for jerky meat. Love it. Didn't come with instructions. Would like to know about blade tension.
I think the motor has a small hole that says 'oil' so you can add a few drops of oil to it, also. I like, dripless oil, even though it is kind of hard to find. Do a search online for dripless oil and you can find it.
have you ever cut deli meat with this? if so, how did it perform?
Thank you. This is exactly what I needed!
I have this meat slicer from my mother-in-law that passed away. I cant figure out how to get the blade on. I think I may be missing a piece. Is it possible for me to send you pictures of the blade and what I have so you can tell me what I am missing.?? Your video was great I just didn't see where you replaced the blade. I really want to use it.
Congrats on your new slicer... and one way or another you can get it going. Before sending a picture take a look at 6:13 in the video where I pull off the 2 part "blade holder". I have seen other types of these, it seems they changed the design of them over time.... but on mine, watching the video... the other side/far side/back side has the "male thread part with a flat round part which actually touch the meat.
Maybe call it a "bolt" part of a "nut and bolt" pair.
When attached this flat round part is flush/flat against the blade. The near side/front side watching the video, show the female knob with inner threads the back side screw part goes into. Maybe call it the "nut" part of a "nut and bolt"pair.
I place my blade in place and then push the round thread screw part through the hole. This part also has a squared off part that matches the blade, holding the round blade in place so it spins with the motor.
With the blade on and the screw thread sticking through it (on my slicer) I then twist on the female knob accepting threads. It goes on finger tight, no tools needed.
I hope that makes sense, watch that part of the video... and maybe some other people videos.... and maybe go to ebay and look for blades and blade parts for these. Then of course check google pictures.
Anyway... my machine had 3 parts to the blade. 1) the round blade 2) the screw threaded part (screw) 3) the "bolt" part which accepts the screwed threads (bolt)
Hope that helps and I did not make it sound too complicated.... it is really very easy... as you said you are probably missing a part.
You can buy these part on ebay... BUT... DO NOT OVER PAY!
As I have said before the prices for parts of these things are ebay can be crazy. There are often times you can buy a whole new slicer for the same price as just one part. You may have to watch and wait... but keep looking. Educate yourself on the parts and whole machines by looking as SOLD prices. You can do this using filters... and is really the most important search on ebay. Offer prices are dreams.... but SOLD prices are the reality.
Thanks for the video. I have a similar one, but mine doesn't have the gray painted motor (it appears to be a stainless housing) and the feet are white rubber. They don't make them like this anymore, do they? I figure mine is about 45 years old. My folks gave it to me.
45 years... I would like to buy something/anything today that is made to last that long. These are workhorses.
You have the good ole stainless housing that says on the side "Made in Kansas City" ? Cool :)
Nope, they dont make them like this any more. I am not sure they make anything here or even in the U.S. anymore. I bought one of those stainless motors as a back up, but it does not seem to work as smoothly as the gray motor that came with mine. I guess there are slight differences between years they made these. But still, it is cool to have something like this that says "Made in KCMO" as a collectors item :)
I made another another video about beef jerky where I talk about freezing/thawing my beef differently so it is not "as hard" on my motor, hoping to make my motor last as long as I can.
Great demo!! A blade sharpening and/or blade replacement video would be awesome. Was wondering if there is a blade sharpening attachment that can be purchased. I've seen a few but not for this model or the 1030V. Any suggestions??
Thank you for the positive comment! There are some videos about sharpening these round blades out there... and I am far from an expert about how to do that.
I have taken a metal file to my blade a couple of times to sharpen the edge, but I am quite sure if I showed a video of me doing it I would be insulted for having bad technique...
Some people love yelling at video posters for even the slightest debatable issues shown in videos.
I kind of chuckle of some folks who have made snotty comments regarding a small tiny part thing in a small part or something I said in a video.... while not saying anything positive about the rest of the info or my efforts.
I laugh it off, but those kind of people and their comments and keep me from posting more videos. Unless I am pretty dang sure about something PLUS I think there are not enough existing videos about something then I tend to... well.... I tend to not exert the effort.
But positive comments like your yours keep me posting more. I like to give back to the data base of info... I use youtube to learn things too...
My MIL just gave me one (no paperwork) that her MIL gave her. Looks almost identical...mine is 1101E/4. Thank you for the demo. May be a silly question, but can you slice through bone like with bone-in ribeye?
With the correct blade I imagine it could cut bone or even steel.... but the question is "do you really want to do that?"
These machines are over 20 years old and are on borrowed time as they sit. I made a comment somewhere about how I kind of baby my slicer. I make to take breaks if/when the motor gets too hot. I do not make the motor work too hard. I have actually perfected my method and batch size to get through the slicing in one run with needing breaks and I do not work it too hard.
You will be able to tell by the motor sound if you are working it too hard.
The real question on these slicers is what is the purpose? I asked that in one of my videos... I was trying to decide if it was easier and faster to just slice things by hand with a knife and avoid all the set up and clean up of the slicer.... and my conclusion was "I like the uniform slices of meat which the slicer provides" so it is worth it to me to use it...
Regarding you question... would it be easier (and less wear and tear on the slicer ) to cut bones with a proper knife. In my opinion I would not use the slicer for that.
There are slicers out there in the world that cut bones and beef all day non stop with no issues... I just dont think this slicer is meant for that.
I now consider my slicer to mostly my beef jerky tool. It does a great job of that and I do not do it too often and I baby it when I use it. I want it to last a long time.
I slightly freeze my beef to firm it up (not too hard though) and it works better than I could do by hand.
So.... that is my 2 cents... of course I could be very wrong and it is perfect for bone cutting... but I wouldn't.
Congrats on your new slicer!
Just picked one up from the good will ($20). My friend you rock!!
I have always wanted one and now I can slice up meat and cheese. Do you happen to know do you sharpen the blades ?
$20.00 is a true bargain for this great tool! Congrats! As far as sharpening... that is a debate. Scan the comments down below for what I have I said... and for what other good posters offered as advice. If you come up with better ideas/solutions please come back and let us know.
my grand mother, rest her soul left me one of these. I found one in a thrift store not 30 minutes ago 15
Any ideas of a DIY blade sharpening system for it or even a predesigned one?
Wayne that is a good question. I never found a predesigned one, but I think I found people online who will do it for you (I seem to recall it was too much money in my opinion).
I have moved and stored my slicer for a while, and I kind of forget how I did it... but I seems to remember using my auto slicer.... maybe? Be sure it sharpen at the right angle... and also I seem to recall taking the round blade to where I watch TV and using a proper file and over time, doing 4-5 indents at a time, being very careful to keep the proper angle, I would file sharpen it. I dont think got to where it "cut paper" but it was plenty sharp to keep the motor from over working. By doing it a couple of indents at a time it was not a chore. NOW I BETTER QUALIFY ALL THAT... I am sure some people would attack me for doing it free hand (versus putting it a vice and using an exact angle sharpener..... so be careful and ... you know.... it worked for me
7777jayhawk Thanks, I did try the file trick, it was not as successful for me. However, chefs choice has one out there that I was able to make work a few days ago. It was awkward and placed backward on the slicer but it was able to put a descent edge on it. Thanks for the response.
lapping table. I've sharpened mine a few times over the year.
Always find that the machine is lacking rpm
So I just got mine all cleaned up and reassembled. Got it for free and it turns on not problem but the wheel seems to move kinda slow. Your video doesn’t show the wheel side in operation. Does it move kinda slow for anyone else?
Thank you for this! I inherited my mother-in-law's slicer. I just sliced a turkey breast and love how it made it nice and thin. The problem I'm having is that I can't get the dern blade off. Yours seemed to twist off so easily, but mine just stops after just a slight turn. I'm so frustrated because now I can't use it again until I can sterilize the blade. I wrote the company for a manual, but I doubt fixing the blade problem will be in there. I don't know, maybe it's rusted inside and I just can't see it. Any suggestions?
Stuck metal parts can be tricky. It reminds me of when I was a kid and I was using wrenches more and more often.... and my Dad said to me "You are old enough to break that off now, so don't break it!" as I was (over) tightening nuts and/or breaking loose stuck-on nuts.
I wish I was there to help you... and I would just crack it loose for you... BUT I bet you can do it.... BUT THERE IS A DANGER of stripping it off the threads. I suggest maybe spaying some lube of some kind into the threaded area and letting it sit for a bit before twisting it loose, maybe use a paid of pliers or vise grips (BUT BE CAREFUL to not scratch it up). Wrap a plastic pad between the pliers and the nut
OR maybe try blowing a hair dryer or heat gun on the metal.... OR maybe put the part into really really hot water. The heat will expand the metal a little bit and maybe that will do the trick.
But I bet if you get a really good grip on it and crank it, it will spin off.... UNLESS it is different than mine and it does not spin all the way off.... you said it spins then sticks? That sounds stuck... just twist that sucker... it will come off. But be careful, you are old enough to break it now..
If it was me... I would crank that sucker and if I break it I would not worry too much. IF yours is like mine the part that holds the blade on (watch the video @6:21 I show how the blade holder part comes apart in 2 pieces, left and right side.
One part is like a quarter shape with a square part coming out the middle which had screws in it... and the other side is the part that screws in that part. Together they hold the blade on. I may have the description slightly off... but the point is... if you break this part off and ruin it, it does not mess the whole machine or blade.
The good news is that part, that two piece part which screw together and hold the blade on is separate from the blade and machine so if you break it (sheer off the threads) you can buy another one.
The bad news is you will have to get a new blade holder part to be able to use the machine... but if you cant remove and clean the blade then you cant use the machine.
So after all of that.. and don't yell at me if you break... but I suggest grip it and twist if off... it will crack loose and spin off fine and dandy.... Use finesse.... heat it up as I say above... think good thoughts and then get it off of there, you will be fine.
But if you do break it, You can find parts for these on ebay, but people are mighty proud of them and I have found you can almost buy a whole new machine for the price of just the motor, or juts a blade... or maybe the price of this screw nut part.
Good luck.... don't break it, you are strong enough to..... juts get it off nicely.
After writing all of that I would be curious how it all turns out, let me know.
Thank you for the pep talk! I'll try the oiling and heating idea.
I have the same one and I was unable to unscrew it as well---until I saw your video. Then I grabbed some pliers and it broke loose with no problem. Glad I found your video!
To remove blade,
press on the screw on food side, then turn the knob! I thought mine was stuck too until I read the manual.
Exact one I’m looking at for exactly the same purpose... Healthier jerky!!!
I have not looked for a while but they are on ebay (ebay has everything... if you are willing to wait and wait and wait) (and the longer you are willing to wait the lower the price you will pay).
When I was more active looking at these it was interesting. People would offer... and other people would actually pay... "parts of the this slicer" for more than a "FULL SLICER!"
A motor would sell for more one week than a complete working slicer would sell for the next.
The moral is wait... and wait.....get you perfect working slicer for a great price.
I see a bunch for sale right now for what I think are good prices.... as low as $25.00 + $15.00 shipping.... AND RIGHT BELOW THAT (list high to low) IS A FREEKIN MOTOR ONLY FOR $29.97 + $10.00!!! How funny!!!
Who would buy the motor only when for 2 cents more you get whole thing?
Good luck finding a good one. BE SURE TO "TALK" to the seller.
My main ebay tips is (when itmes are priced over 15-20 bucks)(I dont bother people for trinkets, I just buy them)...
BUT for real items I message the seller because
1) To test and see if they will be courteous and reply
2) to ask the condition etc etc ....
but mainly I only want deal with easy going friendly kind honest sellers.... I have no time for the 5-10% of the sellers who are nasty despicable mean haters.... and usually a simple question can weed them out. e.g. one word answers.
If a seller can not type at least a full sentence they dont get my business.
So anyway... if you get one of these slicers and do not over heat the engine or otherwise abuse it .... it will last forever.
My favorite thing about my slicer? It says right on the motor "MADE IN KANSAS CITY".... that is too cool.
found one of these in mom's kitchen but the blade looks bad where would u find a new blade for it
Just bought one today where online can I find a replacement blade ? The one that came with the slicer is a bit rusty.
I suggest looking on ebay, but do not over pay... wait for your deal, it will come.
Do you know where to find replacement blades?
I would look on ebay... it may take some time... wait and watch. I would not buy the first one you see, especially if it is waaaaaaaay over priced (230-30 bucks) like they often are. People part these out for more then the machine as a whole.
I have not looked for a while.... but I have seen blades (just the blade) and other single parts for this slicer priced higher than a WHOLE COMPLETE machine.... you may have to wait and watch and look everyday.... but it will come. Set up a filtered search, add it to your favorites and then do a 10 second check daily.... all good things come to those who wait.
THAT is how I bought 2-3 back up blades....and an extra machine :) for less than 20 bucks
My motor is making noise and binding up when cutting. It was grandma's & were only occasionally use it. Should I grease the gears or something?
I do not think it can be lubed. I would make sure to not force meat, let the blade do the cutting not pushing too hard. Maybe try to sharpen you blade, or have it sharpened. Certain meats cut better than others, some will clog it, others are too hard to cut.
Keep touching the motor make sure it is not hot, if it is, take a break.
If the motor is worn out the good thing is it a replaceable component. Look one ebay for the same serial number motor and maybe buy a blade. BUT... do not be too quick to buy. Check the prices and wait. I have seen wide fluctuations in the prices of individual parts... and quite often you can buy a whole machine for the same or less than some seller over charging for just the motor.
Seriously, I seen an entire machine in working condition sell for $25-30... while some other seller was asking $50 for just the motor, and wanted $30 for a blade.
You simply have to wait for the deal to come. Do a search and then save the search in your favorites/bookmarks and then patiently check it every day... always until it pops up... and it will. Everything always does.
There have been items I waited for over a year to pop up... and they did and I grabbed them with no messing around. Wait for your price, it will come.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement blade "Retainer Screw" for a Rival 1101e/7 food slicer? What it originally came with is a plastic screw which has broken off inside the base, now I have to drill it out, why it wasn't a steel screw is a mystery. If anyone has better solution for a blade screw please share it.
excelente video
I have the same slicer but I can't turn the knob to take the blade off. It's like it's locked or something.
It is probably just really stuck on... give it a good twist... maybe spray some food safe lube into it/on on to it... let it sit with the lube... maybe try heating the metal to expand it.... maybe after using and it is all hot. But you do have to remove it sooner or later to clean it.... but one warning....
Before you break it maybe check on ebay for the cost of a replacement knob/screw to know the risk (and be aware sometimes it is cheaper to buy a whole new slicer than just one part)(you have to wait and watch but this exact slicer pops up for great prices... lower than what some sell parts for.... no kidding)
@@7777jayhawk Thanks! I was able to free it up with some pliers.
@@SmokinJames And best of all sounds like you got it off without needing to buy a replacement! Sweet! Happy slicing!
PS
I will offer a couple of tips-
1- While slicing keep checking the heat of the motor, especially if you are "making it work hard". It is far better to take a break and let it cool down than burn it up. These are old machines and sometimes some meat will make it work harder and get really hot. Dont let it get too hot
2- Maybe use some food safe lube of some kind on all screw threads all the time. Keep those lubed and they will will come off easier.
3- Avoid over tightening any of the screw on parts, it is your machines so no need to be "better safe than sorry" as you would if some other dummy needed super tight for over-safety. I would suggest tighten things up only enough to make them stable, tight and working safe. When you are done slicing they are easy unscrew. Then clean and re-screw on "more loose then tight" for storing. Then lube and tighten them up before the next use... repeat for ever
@@7777jayhawk Thanks
Left handed threads on the blade bolt/screw to take the blade off.