Great video, well paced, included every bit of information but the torque specs, full disassembly, many thanks! And I appreciate showing even the small stumbles along the way, it helps me to avoid them myself!
It has "CT016" marked on it. Very hard to find on their website, but the usual big internet stores carry it. I've notice that some of the newer pictures show the tool without the laser cut "EBC" on the handle; perhaps they've quit doing that so it won't bend like mine did.
You are welcome, and that is good news! I have often wondered how many of those handles collapsed during use. I can't be the only incompetent nincompoop to ever cause that to happen.
Awesome video! Very helpful for me as I'm familiarizing myself with the bottom end to have a look behind the cases before I go on a trip to make sure all is in fair condition. Love the "shhhhhhhhhit" moment hahaha! We've all been there..
+Oscar Alexander Yeah, that was a moment. It all turned out well, though. I have no idea what EBC was thinking when they designed that tool with the handle cut out like that. It makes it useless for leverage. I have heard that they changed the design to a solid handle, but haven't seen one. I'm glad you found the video useful. If you're ever curious about what it looks like on the inside you can see some pictures and discussion here: www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/36305-i-am-joes-crank-case.html Thanks for the feedback! Tom
Hi Beej- Yeah, I should have seen that coming. Had they stamped their name onto the handle it would be able to take more torque on the handle. The thing of it is, that nut on the primary gear is torqued to 114 ft-lb; that's more than the hub nut. I didn't account for that (meaning I didn't look it up) but assumed that since it was a thin nut and held with a washer tab that the torque value wasn't that high. Too soon old, too late smart. T
You got anything on reinstalling the basket? I replaced the clutch plates on my 2003 back late August and I didn't have access to a torque wrench and some thing wrong and bolts for the basket + pressure plate got pretty messed up.
Blew my outer gasket, the widest one that goes around the oil filter and the sournding case. Just wondering if I can take the clutch case over off and not have to replace any other gaskets that "may" be involed in the removal process. My question is, "what other gaskets should I purchase before doing this job, replacing the "clutch case gasket"? My gasket that blew is about a one inch strip of the gasket, that worked its way out, at a "2" oclock position just above the oil filter housing. In your video, your clutch cable is covering the gasket area/clutch case area, where I blew my gasket. Any help is apprecaiated, thanks in advance.Great video & info by the way..
The only other gasket is the water pump gasket. The real issue, though, is the water pump itself. You have to remove the water pump to get the cover off. Unless your bike is pretty new you might want to replace the water pump seals.
Yes, the throw-out bearing is loose in the backside of the pressure plate. Remove the five bolts that hold the springs, pull the pressure plate off, and the bearing will be easily removed and replaced. Tom
It is very rare that you need to replace a KLR clutch. They are very robust. If it is properly adjusted for slack in the cable/free-play at the handlebar lever but it slips or grabs badly, then it may need replacing. The only way to know for sure is to remove the clutch cover and inspect the fiber discs to see if they are worn beyond the service limit and inspect them for glazing. I have never seen a KLR clutch where the discs were worn out! I have about 8 clutches laying around the shed. They range from '84 to 2012, and every one of them has a still-good set of OEM fiber discs.
@@souperdoo I have an 2014 KLR, and i got some slipping clutch when full throttle, my clutch cable is almost at the farest to adjust like its too soft, if i adjust the lever to be more tight it will slip more
@@franciscocarrero7031 You must have some play at the clutch lever. If the cable is too tight the clutch may slip. If your cable is at the end of its adjustment you should inspect it for wear and broken strands in the cable.
Great video, well paced, included every bit of information but the torque specs, full disassembly, many thanks! And I appreciate showing even the small stumbles along the way, it helps me to avoid them myself!
It has "CT016" marked on it. Very hard to find on their website, but the usual big internet stores carry it. I've notice that some of the newer pictures show the tool without the laser cut "EBC" on the handle; perhaps they've quit doing that so it won't bend like mine did.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to inform you the the ebc tool’s handle is now solid metal... probably due to failures like In this video.
You are welcome, and that is good news! I have often wondered how many of those handles collapsed during use. I can't be the only incompetent nincompoop to ever cause that to happen.
Awesome video! Very helpful for me as I'm familiarizing myself with the bottom end to have a look behind the cases before I go on a trip to make sure all is in fair condition. Love the "shhhhhhhhhit" moment hahaha! We've all been there..
+Oscar Alexander
Yeah, that was a moment. It all turned out well, though. I have no idea what EBC was thinking when they designed that tool with the handle cut out like that. It makes it useless for leverage. I have heard that they changed the design to a solid handle, but haven't seen one.
I'm glad you found the video useful. If you're ever curious about what it looks like on the inside you can see some pictures and discussion here: www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/36305-i-am-joes-crank-case.html
Thanks for the feedback!
Tom
"Shhhhhhhit." I've been there, buddy.
Hi Beej-
Yeah, I should have seen that coming. Had they stamped their name onto the handle it would be able to take more torque on the handle.
The thing of it is, that nut on the primary gear is torqued to 114 ft-lb; that's more than the hub nut. I didn't account for that (meaning I didn't look it up) but assumed that since it was a thin nut and held with a washer tab that the torque value wasn't that high.
Too soon old, too late smart.
T
Nice video, thx for making it
Great video mate, thanks for sharing 🇦🇺👍🏻
I am glad you found it useful!
You got anything on reinstalling the basket? I replaced the clutch plates on my 2003 back late August and I didn't have access to a torque wrench and some thing wrong and bolts for the basket + pressure plate got pretty messed up.
Good stuff as always!
Blew my outer gasket, the widest one that goes around the oil filter and the sournding case. Just wondering if I can take the clutch case over off and not have to replace any other gaskets that "may" be involed in the removal process. My question is, "what other gaskets should I purchase before doing this job, replacing the "clutch case gasket"? My gasket that blew is about a one inch strip of the gasket, that worked its way out, at a "2" oclock position just above the oil filter housing. In your video, your clutch cable is covering the gasket area/clutch case area, where I blew my gasket. Any help is apprecaiated, thanks in advance.Great video & info by the way..
The only other gasket is the water pump gasket. The real issue, though, is the water pump itself. You have to remove the water pump to get the cover off. Unless your bike is pretty new you might want to replace the water pump seals.
Superhuman strength you never knew you had! If it didn't have EBC carved in the handle, maybe it wouldn't have bent. ;-)
hi SUPERDOO.
Nice. Thanks.
Related to the tool: wich is the #item part in the EBC catalog (Clutch Removal Tool - item # ???).
Thanks.
JB.
Hey may be a stupid question, that throw out bearing in the middle, did that just pull right out? I need to replace it because something snapped
Yes, the throw-out bearing is loose in the backside of the pressure plate. Remove the five bolts that hold the springs, pull the pressure plate off, and the bearing will be easily removed and replaced.
Tom
thanks
How do you know if you need to replace your clutch on a klr650?
It is very rare that you need to replace a KLR clutch. They are very robust. If it is properly adjusted for slack in the cable/free-play at the handlebar lever but it slips or grabs badly, then it may need replacing. The only way to know for sure is to remove the clutch cover and inspect the fiber discs to see if they are worn beyond the service limit and inspect them for glazing.
I have never seen a KLR clutch where the discs were worn out! I have about 8 clutches laying around the shed. They range from '84 to 2012, and every one of them has a still-good set of OEM fiber discs.
@@souperdoo I have an 2014 KLR, and i got some slipping clutch when full throttle, my clutch cable is almost at the farest to adjust like its too soft, if i adjust the lever to be more tight it will slip more
@@franciscocarrero7031 You must have some play at the clutch lever. If the cable is too tight the clutch may slip. If your cable is at the end of its adjustment you should inspect it for wear and broken strands in the cable.
Shit happens.